文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Hens and chicks have old-time charm and unbeatable hardiness. These little succulents are known for their sweet rosette form and numerous offsets or “chicks.” Do hens and chicks plants bloom? The answer is yes, but it spells demise for the flowering rosette in a life cycle that is unique among plants. Hens and chicks flowers are the plants way of producing seed and a new generation of beguiling succulents.
When Do Hens and Chicks Plants Bloom?
A rambunctious clump of hens and chicks have special allure to children and adults alike. The small plants are adaptable and resilient, producing flower-like clusters of varying sized rosettes. Gardeners new to the plants may say, “My hens and chicks are flowering,” and wonder if this is a natural occurrence. Blooms on hens and chicks plants are not only natural but an additional wonder with this fun, diminutive Sempervivum.
A rambunctious clump of hens and chicks have special allure to children and adults alike. The small plants are adaptable and resilient, producing flower-like clusters of varying sized rosettes. Gardeners new to the plants may say, “My hens and chicks are flowering,” and wonder if this is a natural occurrence. Blooms on hens and chicks plants are not only natural but an additional wonder with this fun, diminutive Sempervivum.
A blooming hen on a hen and chicks plant is often referred to as a “rooster.” The individual rosettes will begin to elongate and lengthen vertically when it is time to produce flowers. The process lends an alien appearance to the normally low-growing plants, with flower stalks that can get from a few inches up to a foot in length. Removing the budding stem can’t save the rosette. The blooms on hens and chicks plants are a part of a monocarpic process. That means they flower, seed and then die. There is nothing to be done about it so you might as well enjoy the pink, white or yellow flowers with bristling, erect stamen. Their work will soon be done, but the plant should already have produced many smaller rosettes, the future of the line.
Hens and Chicks Flower Care
As with the entire plant, hens and chicks flower care consists of neglect. You can leave the bloom until it has finished and the stem and base rosette will dry out and die. Clip off the stem rather than pulling it out of the living cluster or you may end up yanking some of the precious offsets. You may also choose to let nature take its course and leave the dying stem as proof of an interesting life cycle, which will eventually break off and compost in the area. The young chicks will grow larger and fill in any gaps the parent plant made when bidding its fond farewell to this world. So enjoy the flowers and the guarantee of everlasting life this plant has in its offspring.
When Do Hens and Chicks Plants Bloom?
A rambunctious clump of hens and chicks have special allure to children and adults alike. The small plants are adaptable and resilient, producing flower-like clusters of varying sized rosettes. Gardeners new to the plants may say, “My hens and chicks are flowering,” and wonder if this is a natural occurrence. Blooms on hens and chicks plants are not only natural but an additional wonder with this fun, diminutive Sempervivum.
A rambunctious clump of hens and chicks have special allure to children and adults alike. The small plants are adaptable and resilient, producing flower-like clusters of varying sized rosettes. Gardeners new to the plants may say, “My hens and chicks are flowering,” and wonder if this is a natural occurrence. Blooms on hens and chicks plants are not only natural but an additional wonder with this fun, diminutive Sempervivum.
A blooming hen on a hen and chicks plant is often referred to as a “rooster.” The individual rosettes will begin to elongate and lengthen vertically when it is time to produce flowers. The process lends an alien appearance to the normally low-growing plants, with flower stalks that can get from a few inches up to a foot in length. Removing the budding stem can’t save the rosette. The blooms on hens and chicks plants are a part of a monocarpic process. That means they flower, seed and then die. There is nothing to be done about it so you might as well enjoy the pink, white or yellow flowers with bristling, erect stamen. Their work will soon be done, but the plant should already have produced many smaller rosettes, the future of the line.
Hens and Chicks Flower Care
As with the entire plant, hens and chicks flower care consists of neglect. You can leave the bloom until it has finished and the stem and base rosette will dry out and die. Clip off the stem rather than pulling it out of the living cluster or you may end up yanking some of the precious offsets. You may also choose to let nature take its course and leave the dying stem as proof of an interesting life cycle, which will eventually break off and compost in the area. The young chicks will grow larger and fill in any gaps the parent plant made when bidding its fond farewell to this world. So enjoy the flowers and the guarantee of everlasting life this plant has in its offspring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
There are over 60 different families of plants that encompass succulents. Succulents are such a diverse group that you could probably name a shape or form and find a representative succulent. Greenovia succulent is evocative of roses, with similar layered petals and curved form. The rose-shaped succulent called Greenovia dodrentalis is an example of this form and is in the family Crassulaceae. These tiny, rare plants are hard to find, but if you do get a hold of one, make sure you know how to grow greenovia so your unique discovery will thrive.
Greenovia Succulent Info
Cacti and succulent aficionados are forever looking for the next new plant and building unique collections. Rose-shaped greenovia is one of those hard to find specimens that many of us would give our eye teeth to own. If you are lucky, you might find them at a specialty online nursery or a friend’s plant may have pups you can acquire. Caring for greenovia is very similar to the maintenance for other succulents. As with all these sun-loving plants, water usage is the main issue. Greenovia are tiny little plants, only about 6 inches tall at maturity. They are found in the eastern and western parts of Tenerife in the Canary Islands. The wild plants are in danger due to over collection and tourist activities. They are squat bodied, grayish green plants that often have a rose tinge at the edges of the leaves. The leaves are fleshy, smooth, oval to paddle shaped and layered upon another, just as rose petals nestle against themselves. By the time rose-shaped greenovia is mature, the lowest older petals pull away from the main body a bit and develop a soft sandy, pink tone. Over time, the plant can produce pups, or offsets, which you can divide away from the mother for easy new plants.
How to Grow Greenovia
Greenovia is an infrequent flowering plant and there is evidence that it is monocarpic. This means it will flower once, eventually, and then die after it sets seed. If your plant flowers and doesn’t have pups, this is bad news. You may certainly collect and plant the seed, but as with most succulents, you will have to wait years for any identifiable form. The rose-shaped succulent called Greenovia dodrentalis does bloom more frequently than other greenovia without dying. Bag the heads to catch seed and sow indoors in shallow trays. Use a spray bottle to water the tiny seedlings initially. Transplant them to larger containers when you can identify several sets of leaves. Use a gritty potting soil and a well-drained pot. A faster, more immediate way to enjoy new greenovia is to use a sharp knife and divide away the pups at the base of the plant. Install them in clean soil and treat them as you would the adult.
Caring for Greenovia
Keep these succulents in a warm, brightly lit location. Water when the top surface of soil is dry. In winter, reduce water by half. Resume watering in spring when new growth commences. This is the best time to fertilize, as well. You can move your greenovia outside onto the patio or other bright location in summer but make sure to gradually adjust the plant to the outdoors. It is best to choose a location where there is protection from the highest light of the day to avoid scorching the little plants. Watch for any insect pests and combat immediately. This is especially important when the season is closing and it is time to move the plants back indoors. You don’t want any hitchhiking insects to infest your houseplants. Repot greenovia every few years. They like to be crowded so it may just be necessary to replace the soil with more fertile medium. Share the pups of these unique little plants whenever you can, so more gardeners can enjoy the little rose-shaped greenovia plant.
Greenovia Succulent Info
Cacti and succulent aficionados are forever looking for the next new plant and building unique collections. Rose-shaped greenovia is one of those hard to find specimens that many of us would give our eye teeth to own. If you are lucky, you might find them at a specialty online nursery or a friend’s plant may have pups you can acquire. Caring for greenovia is very similar to the maintenance for other succulents. As with all these sun-loving plants, water usage is the main issue. Greenovia are tiny little plants, only about 6 inches tall at maturity. They are found in the eastern and western parts of Tenerife in the Canary Islands. The wild plants are in danger due to over collection and tourist activities. They are squat bodied, grayish green plants that often have a rose tinge at the edges of the leaves. The leaves are fleshy, smooth, oval to paddle shaped and layered upon another, just as rose petals nestle against themselves. By the time rose-shaped greenovia is mature, the lowest older petals pull away from the main body a bit and develop a soft sandy, pink tone. Over time, the plant can produce pups, or offsets, which you can divide away from the mother for easy new plants.
How to Grow Greenovia
Greenovia is an infrequent flowering plant and there is evidence that it is monocarpic. This means it will flower once, eventually, and then die after it sets seed. If your plant flowers and doesn’t have pups, this is bad news. You may certainly collect and plant the seed, but as with most succulents, you will have to wait years for any identifiable form. The rose-shaped succulent called Greenovia dodrentalis does bloom more frequently than other greenovia without dying. Bag the heads to catch seed and sow indoors in shallow trays. Use a spray bottle to water the tiny seedlings initially. Transplant them to larger containers when you can identify several sets of leaves. Use a gritty potting soil and a well-drained pot. A faster, more immediate way to enjoy new greenovia is to use a sharp knife and divide away the pups at the base of the plant. Install them in clean soil and treat them as you would the adult.
Caring for Greenovia
Keep these succulents in a warm, brightly lit location. Water when the top surface of soil is dry. In winter, reduce water by half. Resume watering in spring when new growth commences. This is the best time to fertilize, as well. You can move your greenovia outside onto the patio or other bright location in summer but make sure to gradually adjust the plant to the outdoors. It is best to choose a location where there is protection from the highest light of the day to avoid scorching the little plants. Watch for any insect pests and combat immediately. This is especially important when the season is closing and it is time to move the plants back indoors. You don’t want any hitchhiking insects to infest your houseplants. Repot greenovia every few years. They like to be crowded so it may just be necessary to replace the soil with more fertile medium. Share the pups of these unique little plants whenever you can, so more gardeners can enjoy the little rose-shaped greenovia plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Succulents are a diverse form of plants that includes cacti and other moisture-storing specimens. Graptopetalum ghost plant develops a rosette shape on stems which may trail or hang. As with most plants in this group, water needs are little and exposure is important. Ghost flower plant care hinges on providing a natural environment that mimics the succulent’s native habitat. Tips on how to grow a Graptopetalum will ensure your ghost plant is healthy and enjoyable for many years.
Graptopetalum Ghost Plant Information
Thick, fleshy leaves and stems characterize most succulent plants. Ghost plants (Graptopetalum paraguayense) have thick leaves that hold excess moisture so the plant can withstand periods without rain. The silvery gray to bluish green foliage has a pinkish tinge to the edges of the leaves when they are young. Layers of leaves form the rosette, which range in size from less than an inch across to several inches wide. The plant is related to and resembles Echeveria, which is a common and fairly hardy succulent plant often used in container gardens.
These plants have color changing abilities. Full sun is the best location for them, but growing succulent ghost plants in partial shade produces the bluish-gray tones. Full sun plants tend to be yellowish-pink, pearlescent and slightly translucent. Those in punishing heat turn gray with pink overtones. Full ghost plant information must include the detail that the plant grows from the center of the rosette. This gives mature succulents a rangy appearance, which is easy fix by pinching back. The plant flowers occasionally in spring to summer with airy little yellow blooms.
How to Grow a Graptopetalum
The stems on this plant are fairly brittle and detach easily. This is because in its habitat, Graptopetalum ghost plant reproduces vegetatively. Any rosette that breaks off has the potential to root and start a new plant. Even a leaf that drops off will root below the parent plant and produce a new rosette quickly. The new plant feeds off the leaf until it shrivels up and falls off. By then the new little ghost plant has rooted and sprouted new leaves. Growing succulent ghost plants is ridiculously easy and a great confidence booster for the novice gardener. USDA zones 7b and up are suitable for growing succulent ghost plants. The rules for ghost flower plant care are similar to those for most succulents. Container-bound plants thrive in a mixture of peat, sand or other grit, topsoil and a little bit of compost. Full sun is the best situation but they will also grow in partial sun with slightly rangy results. Because the stems are so fragile, it is best to pick the best location for ghost plant and then don’t move it. Ghost plants need excellent drainage and moderate water. You can tell when to water by sticking your finger in the soil. If it is dry several inches down or the fleshy leaves are looking shriveled, you should water. Overwatering is a cause of root rots and the plant can get several pest infestations. Fertilize it in early spring and provide water only monthly in winter.
Graptopetalum Ghost Plant Information
Thick, fleshy leaves and stems characterize most succulent plants. Ghost plants (Graptopetalum paraguayense) have thick leaves that hold excess moisture so the plant can withstand periods without rain. The silvery gray to bluish green foliage has a pinkish tinge to the edges of the leaves when they are young. Layers of leaves form the rosette, which range in size from less than an inch across to several inches wide. The plant is related to and resembles Echeveria, which is a common and fairly hardy succulent plant often used in container gardens.
These plants have color changing abilities. Full sun is the best location for them, but growing succulent ghost plants in partial shade produces the bluish-gray tones. Full sun plants tend to be yellowish-pink, pearlescent and slightly translucent. Those in punishing heat turn gray with pink overtones. Full ghost plant information must include the detail that the plant grows from the center of the rosette. This gives mature succulents a rangy appearance, which is easy fix by pinching back. The plant flowers occasionally in spring to summer with airy little yellow blooms.
How to Grow a Graptopetalum
The stems on this plant are fairly brittle and detach easily. This is because in its habitat, Graptopetalum ghost plant reproduces vegetatively. Any rosette that breaks off has the potential to root and start a new plant. Even a leaf that drops off will root below the parent plant and produce a new rosette quickly. The new plant feeds off the leaf until it shrivels up and falls off. By then the new little ghost plant has rooted and sprouted new leaves. Growing succulent ghost plants is ridiculously easy and a great confidence booster for the novice gardener. USDA zones 7b and up are suitable for growing succulent ghost plants. The rules for ghost flower plant care are similar to those for most succulents. Container-bound plants thrive in a mixture of peat, sand or other grit, topsoil and a little bit of compost. Full sun is the best situation but they will also grow in partial sun with slightly rangy results. Because the stems are so fragile, it is best to pick the best location for ghost plant and then don’t move it. Ghost plants need excellent drainage and moderate water. You can tell when to water by sticking your finger in the soil. If it is dry several inches down or the fleshy leaves are looking shriveled, you should water. Overwatering is a cause of root rots and the plant can get several pest infestations. Fertilize it in early spring and provide water only monthly in winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
There are quite a few ways to take cuttings off succulent plants, so it’s no wonder why it may seem intimidating. Read here to get information on cacti and succulent propagation.
Propagating Cacti and Succulents
There are several ways to take cuttings off of succulent plants. Sometimes you’ll root the whole leaf. Sometimes you can cut a leaf into sections. Short stubs are taken from cacti. If you are detaching leaves, you have to be sure not to ruin the mother plant’s shape. If you take a few from the back of the plant, it’s probably not going to be a problem.
Propagating Succulent Leaf Pieces
Larger plants, like the snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), can be increased by cutting stems and leaves into pieces. All you would do is be sure to water the plant for a few days before you plan to take the cuttings. If you don’t, the leaves will be flaccid, and flaccid leaves do not root readily. Use a sharp knife and sever just one or two leaves at the base of each leaf. Make sure you take them from different areas of the plant. If you take them all from one side, you will ruin the shape of the plant. Take one of the severed leaves and place it on a flat surface. Using your sharp knife, cut the leaf into pieces about 5 cm deep. Make sure you cut cleanly because if you tear the leaf instead, it won’t root and will die off. Take a shallow, but wide, pot and fill it with equal parts of moist peat and sand, then rirm the compost mixture. Take your knife and form a slit and push a cutting about 2 cm down into the slit. You want to make sure the cutting is the right way up. Lightly water the compost, and then place the pot in gentle warmth.
Rooting Succulent Leaves
Many succulents, like October daphne (Sedum sieboldii ‘Mediovariegatum’), have small, circular, flat leaves. You can increase these easily in spring and early summer. Just press leaves into the surface of a pot filled with equal parts of sand and moist peat. Make sure the pot is well draining. It’s best to cut off a few stems rather than taking off a few leaves from several shoots. Just snap the leaves off, without squashing the stems. Lay them out and let them dry for a couple of days. Then take the leaves and press each one on the compost’s surface. After you have them all laid out, lightly water the leaves. Take the pot and put it in gentle warmth and light shade. Some succulents like the jade plant (Crassula ovata) can be taken off and inserted vertically into a pot with well-drained compost in spring and early summer. It’s not necessary to have high temperatures. Just select a healthy, well-watered plant and gently bend the leaves down. Doing so causes them to snap off close to the main stem. This is what you want. Lay the leaves out and let them dry for a couple of days. Fill a clean pot with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to about 1 cm below the rim. Take a pencil and form a hole about 20 mm deep and insert your cutting into it. Firm the compost around it to steady the “plant.” Water this pot and place it in light shade and gentle warmth.
Taking Cacti Cuttings
Most cacti have spines and are known quite well by these. This should never stop you from taking cuttings from them. If necessary, wear gloves while handling the cacti. Cacti that grow a mass of small stems from around the base are the easiest to increase. Mammillarias and Echinopsis spp. can be increased this way. Using a sharp knife, take off a well-formed young stem from around the outside of the clump of cacti. Sever the stems at the base so you don’t cause unsightly short stubs to be left on the mother plant. You always want to keep the attractiveness of the mother plant steady. Also, don’t take the stems all from the same position. This will also spoil the mother plant’s appearance. Lay the cuttings out and leave them alone for a couple of days so their ends can dry. Then insert the cuttings into the cactus compost. This will let them root a lot faster than if you insert them into the compost immediately after you cut them. Take a small pot and fill it with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to 1 cm below the rim. You will want to sprinkle a thin layer of sand on the surface and make a hole about 2.5 cm deep. Insert the cutting into the hole. Firm your compost around the cutting and place it in gentle warmth and light after lightly watering it. Rooting should happen in a few weeks if you’ve done this in spring or early summer when the plant is most likely to root. So don’t be afraid of succulents or cacti. They are plants just like the rest of them and just have a different way of being handled. The process of increasing these plants is just as simple as with other plants, so you should have no trouble at all increasing your beautiful collection of these wonderfully different plants.
Propagating Cacti and Succulents
There are several ways to take cuttings off of succulent plants. Sometimes you’ll root the whole leaf. Sometimes you can cut a leaf into sections. Short stubs are taken from cacti. If you are detaching leaves, you have to be sure not to ruin the mother plant’s shape. If you take a few from the back of the plant, it’s probably not going to be a problem.
Propagating Succulent Leaf Pieces
Larger plants, like the snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), can be increased by cutting stems and leaves into pieces. All you would do is be sure to water the plant for a few days before you plan to take the cuttings. If you don’t, the leaves will be flaccid, and flaccid leaves do not root readily. Use a sharp knife and sever just one or two leaves at the base of each leaf. Make sure you take them from different areas of the plant. If you take them all from one side, you will ruin the shape of the plant. Take one of the severed leaves and place it on a flat surface. Using your sharp knife, cut the leaf into pieces about 5 cm deep. Make sure you cut cleanly because if you tear the leaf instead, it won’t root and will die off. Take a shallow, but wide, pot and fill it with equal parts of moist peat and sand, then rirm the compost mixture. Take your knife and form a slit and push a cutting about 2 cm down into the slit. You want to make sure the cutting is the right way up. Lightly water the compost, and then place the pot in gentle warmth.
Rooting Succulent Leaves
Many succulents, like October daphne (Sedum sieboldii ‘Mediovariegatum’), have small, circular, flat leaves. You can increase these easily in spring and early summer. Just press leaves into the surface of a pot filled with equal parts of sand and moist peat. Make sure the pot is well draining. It’s best to cut off a few stems rather than taking off a few leaves from several shoots. Just snap the leaves off, without squashing the stems. Lay them out and let them dry for a couple of days. Then take the leaves and press each one on the compost’s surface. After you have them all laid out, lightly water the leaves. Take the pot and put it in gentle warmth and light shade. Some succulents like the jade plant (Crassula ovata) can be taken off and inserted vertically into a pot with well-drained compost in spring and early summer. It’s not necessary to have high temperatures. Just select a healthy, well-watered plant and gently bend the leaves down. Doing so causes them to snap off close to the main stem. This is what you want. Lay the leaves out and let them dry for a couple of days. Fill a clean pot with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to about 1 cm below the rim. Take a pencil and form a hole about 20 mm deep and insert your cutting into it. Firm the compost around it to steady the “plant.” Water this pot and place it in light shade and gentle warmth.
Taking Cacti Cuttings
Most cacti have spines and are known quite well by these. This should never stop you from taking cuttings from them. If necessary, wear gloves while handling the cacti. Cacti that grow a mass of small stems from around the base are the easiest to increase. Mammillarias and Echinopsis spp. can be increased this way. Using a sharp knife, take off a well-formed young stem from around the outside of the clump of cacti. Sever the stems at the base so you don’t cause unsightly short stubs to be left on the mother plant. You always want to keep the attractiveness of the mother plant steady. Also, don’t take the stems all from the same position. This will also spoil the mother plant’s appearance. Lay the cuttings out and leave them alone for a couple of days so their ends can dry. Then insert the cuttings into the cactus compost. This will let them root a lot faster than if you insert them into the compost immediately after you cut them. Take a small pot and fill it with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to 1 cm below the rim. You will want to sprinkle a thin layer of sand on the surface and make a hole about 2.5 cm deep. Insert the cutting into the hole. Firm your compost around the cutting and place it in gentle warmth and light after lightly watering it. Rooting should happen in a few weeks if you’ve done this in spring or early summer when the plant is most likely to root. So don’t be afraid of succulents or cacti. They are plants just like the rest of them and just have a different way of being handled. The process of increasing these plants is just as simple as with other plants, so you should have no trouble at all increasing your beautiful collection of these wonderfully different plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Succulents are easy to grow, attractive and aromatic. Such is the case with Cuban oregano. What is Cuban oregano? It is a succulent in the Lamiaceae family, also known as Spanish thyme, Indian borage and Mexican mint. It is not a true oregano in the family, Origanum, but has a scent characteristic of the true oreganos. There are numerous culinary and traditional Cuban oregano uses. Once you know how to grow Cuban oregano, try this lively little plant in containers, a well-drained, partially sunny area of the garden or in trailing baskets.
What is Cuban Oregano?
Plectranthus amboinicus is a perennial succulent with aromatic foliage. It is often grown as a houseplant but can thrive outdoors in warm season regions or in summer. Leaves contain pungent oils, which can be harnessed for cooking.
The flavor of Cuban oregano is said to be much stronger than Greek oregano, the herb most frequently used to flavor pizzas and other Mediterranean dishes. Harvesting Cuban oregano and using it in recipes can provide similar flavor to traditional oreganos but should be used in more moderate amounts to avoid over-seasoning the dish. Cuban oregano is a member of the mint or deadnettle family. As such, it has characteristic thick, fuzzy leaves with a strong pleasing odor. Leaves are grayish green and finely haired and saw-toothed at the edges. Flowers are borne in panicles and may be white, pink, or lavender. Plants grow between 12 and 18 inches tall and may develop a trailing habit, making it attractive in hanging baskets. As an in-ground plant, it will spread to a small mounded ground cover. Cuban oregano growing requirements are somewhat different than traditional oreganos, as they may burn in full sun and perform better in some light shade.
How to Grow Cuban Oregano
Choose a site with well-draining, gritty soil in partial sun for this little plant. It is frost tender but does well in tropical to semi-tropical areas year around. In temperate regions, grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors in fall. Cuban oregano does most of its growth in spring and summer and prefers hot, dry conditions. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t need water, however. The plant needs regular irrigation but cannot survive consistently wet roots, which makes drainage especially important. Growing plants in containers makes it easier to accommodate Cuban oregano growing requirements by moving it as the seasonal sun gets hotter in certain areas of the garden. Some noon-day shade is required to prevent leaves from burning and ruining their appearance.
Cuban Oregano Uses
Cuban oregano leaves can be used just like regular oreganos. Harvesting Cuban oregano leaves for traditional medicinal purposes can be traced back centuries. It was useful in treatment of respiratory and throat infections as well as rheumatism, constipation, flatulence and as an aid to stimulate lactation. Modern applications use it as a substitute for Mediterranean oreganos, either dried or fresh. The leaves may be dried and crushed to add to meat dishes. Fresh leaves, in small amounts, are used in soups and stews, and in stuffing for poultry and other meat. Be cautious, as the plant is very strongly flavored and can overpower other seasonings. This little plant has attractive foliage, the blooms attract pollinators and its use in the kitchen adds another tool to your culinary prowess.
What is Cuban Oregano?
Plectranthus amboinicus is a perennial succulent with aromatic foliage. It is often grown as a houseplant but can thrive outdoors in warm season regions or in summer. Leaves contain pungent oils, which can be harnessed for cooking.
The flavor of Cuban oregano is said to be much stronger than Greek oregano, the herb most frequently used to flavor pizzas and other Mediterranean dishes. Harvesting Cuban oregano and using it in recipes can provide similar flavor to traditional oreganos but should be used in more moderate amounts to avoid over-seasoning the dish. Cuban oregano is a member of the mint or deadnettle family. As such, it has characteristic thick, fuzzy leaves with a strong pleasing odor. Leaves are grayish green and finely haired and saw-toothed at the edges. Flowers are borne in panicles and may be white, pink, or lavender. Plants grow between 12 and 18 inches tall and may develop a trailing habit, making it attractive in hanging baskets. As an in-ground plant, it will spread to a small mounded ground cover. Cuban oregano growing requirements are somewhat different than traditional oreganos, as they may burn in full sun and perform better in some light shade.
How to Grow Cuban Oregano
Choose a site with well-draining, gritty soil in partial sun for this little plant. It is frost tender but does well in tropical to semi-tropical areas year around. In temperate regions, grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors in fall. Cuban oregano does most of its growth in spring and summer and prefers hot, dry conditions. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t need water, however. The plant needs regular irrigation but cannot survive consistently wet roots, which makes drainage especially important. Growing plants in containers makes it easier to accommodate Cuban oregano growing requirements by moving it as the seasonal sun gets hotter in certain areas of the garden. Some noon-day shade is required to prevent leaves from burning and ruining their appearance.
Cuban Oregano Uses
Cuban oregano leaves can be used just like regular oreganos. Harvesting Cuban oregano leaves for traditional medicinal purposes can be traced back centuries. It was useful in treatment of respiratory and throat infections as well as rheumatism, constipation, flatulence and as an aid to stimulate lactation. Modern applications use it as a substitute for Mediterranean oreganos, either dried or fresh. The leaves may be dried and crushed to add to meat dishes. Fresh leaves, in small amounts, are used in soups and stews, and in stuffing for poultry and other meat. Be cautious, as the plant is very strongly flavored and can overpower other seasonings. This little plant has attractive foliage, the blooms attract pollinators and its use in the kitchen adds another tool to your culinary prowess.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti and succulents make outstanding landscaping plants. They require little maintenance, grow in a variety of climates, and are easy to care for and grow. Most will even tolerate neglect. These plants are also well adapted to potted environments, making them excellent candidates for growing indoors as well.
Types of Cacti
Cacti vary in size, color, shape and growing habits. They may grow in upright columns, spreading clumps or spiny balls. They might even be found cascading over large rocks or in hanging baskets. Cacti are available in numerous varieties too, many of which produce stunning flowers. While many types of cactus are native to desert climates, most will tolerate a number of growing conditions. This versatility makes cactus landscaping possible nearly anywhere. Some popular types of cacti found in landscape settings include: Prickly pear cactus – known for its broad, flat prickly stems, of which the tips turn coral colored in bright sun. Barrel cactus – resembles spine-covered barrels. Cholla cactus – has thin round stems and is quite attractive when used as a focal point within the landscape. Pincushion cactus – resembling a small pincushion with its tiny spines sticking out from its round ball-like shape, it makes an interesting addition to the garden. Totem pole cactus – characterized by their large height and spineless column shape. Organ pipe cactus – grows in clusters that look similar to its name-organ pipes.
Cactus Landscaping Tips
When landscaping with cactus and succulent plants, you should always do your homework first. Learn more about their individual growing requirements and try to match these requirements to that of your landscape. Cactus plants have a number of survival tactics that allow them to adapt to a particular environment; however, it’s always better to choose those that are more likely to thrive in your particular area. Including a variety of cacti that share similar growing needs but with different heights and textures will add interest to the cactus garden.
Growing Cactus Outdoors
When growing cactus outdoors, choose a sunny, sloped location whenever possible. Locating cactus on a slope allows for better drainage, which is vital when dealing with these plants. Depending on the types of cactus chosen, beds should be about 6 to 12 inches deep with well-drained soil specially formulated for cactus plants. This can be purchased or mixed yourself using two parts potting soil, two parts sand, and one part gravel. Cactus plants also enjoy a moderate layer of mulch such as pebbles, rocks, or similar substance. Once established, cacti require little maintenance and very little, if any, water.
Types of Cacti
Cacti vary in size, color, shape and growing habits. They may grow in upright columns, spreading clumps or spiny balls. They might even be found cascading over large rocks or in hanging baskets. Cacti are available in numerous varieties too, many of which produce stunning flowers. While many types of cactus are native to desert climates, most will tolerate a number of growing conditions. This versatility makes cactus landscaping possible nearly anywhere. Some popular types of cacti found in landscape settings include: Prickly pear cactus – known for its broad, flat prickly stems, of which the tips turn coral colored in bright sun. Barrel cactus – resembles spine-covered barrels. Cholla cactus – has thin round stems and is quite attractive when used as a focal point within the landscape. Pincushion cactus – resembling a small pincushion with its tiny spines sticking out from its round ball-like shape, it makes an interesting addition to the garden. Totem pole cactus – characterized by their large height and spineless column shape. Organ pipe cactus – grows in clusters that look similar to its name-organ pipes.
Cactus Landscaping Tips
When landscaping with cactus and succulent plants, you should always do your homework first. Learn more about their individual growing requirements and try to match these requirements to that of your landscape. Cactus plants have a number of survival tactics that allow them to adapt to a particular environment; however, it’s always better to choose those that are more likely to thrive in your particular area. Including a variety of cacti that share similar growing needs but with different heights and textures will add interest to the cactus garden.
Growing Cactus Outdoors
When growing cactus outdoors, choose a sunny, sloped location whenever possible. Locating cactus on a slope allows for better drainage, which is vital when dealing with these plants. Depending on the types of cactus chosen, beds should be about 6 to 12 inches deep with well-drained soil specially formulated for cactus plants. This can be purchased or mixed yourself using two parts potting soil, two parts sand, and one part gravel. Cactus plants also enjoy a moderate layer of mulch such as pebbles, rocks, or similar substance. Once established, cacti require little maintenance and very little, if any, water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are remarkably durable and low in maintenance. The succulents need little more than sun, well drained soil and rare moisture. The pests and problems common to the plant group are minimal and usually easy to surmount. Cactus problems may range from sucking pests, like whitefly, to common rots from bacteria or fungal disease. One of the telltale signs of a problem is a soft, mushy cactus.
Why is My Cactus Going Soft?
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 F. (21-24 C.) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements. As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Cactus Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial. Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating Cactus Rot Issues
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes. If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium. A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
Why is My Cactus Going Soft?
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 F. (21-24 C.) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements. As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Cactus Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial. Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating Cactus Rot Issues
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes. If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium. A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Succulents are a group of plants with one of the most diverse forms, colors and blooms. These easy to care for indoor and outdoor specimens are a dream for the busy gardener. What is a succulent plant? Succulents are specialized plants that store water in their leaves and/or stems. They are remarkably adapted to harsh climates where water is scarce or comes sporadically. Merriam Webster defines a succulent as “full of juice” or “juicy.” Read on for some fun succulent plant info so you can get started collecting the myriad of varieties available in this special class of plant.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
My grandmother had a small child’s pair of boots with a few cacti and succulents growing inside. My sister and I planted them for her some 20 years ago and they are still thriving and cute as I write. These unique planters give you some idea of the wide range of possible succulent container ideas. As long as an object can hold the soil, drain well and evaporate excess water, it can probably hold a succulent. Let’s investigate some unusual containers for succulents and see what kind of creative setting you can find for your plants.
Succulent Container Ideas
One of my favorite plant groups are the succulents because there is an endless variety of form, color and texture available in these easy-to-grow plants. Creating cunning vignettes with succulents adds even more charm to already charismatic plants. Creative containers for succulents highlight their allure and enchant the eye.
Many unusual items make exceptional pots for growing succulent plants while providing a functional container. Look around your house and see what you can find that would make unusual containers for succulents. Most succulents grow well as indoor plants in small containers. Even larger succulents tend to like to be rather cramped in their abode. Make a green scene by planting succulents in an old teapot and teacups. Place larger succulents in an old metal sieve. Even cracked crockery, statues and other old kitchen containers make whimsical centerpieces. Creative containers for succulents are only limited by your imagination. Whatever you choose, make sure there are drainage holes and the soil is appropriate for that variety of succulent. Choosing cool pots for growing succulent plants will be of no avail if you don’t treat your plants properly and give them the lighting, temperature, food and moisture needs that are optimum for that species.
Industrial Containers for Succulent Gardens
Industry is what makes nations great, so why not carve out a piece of that history and plant in it? Cement blocks with tiny succulents inside the holes highlight the strength and resilience of these little plants. An old tool box with holes punched into the base, a rusted out metal fire pit, a broken fountain and even an unused watering pot, all make magnetic planters for succulents. The older the better, and even cracked or damaged items gain a certain cache once they are adorned with plants. So cruise your local construction sites, dumps and thrift stores for magical containers for succulent gardens.
Personalized Pots for Growing Succulent Plants
The sky is practically the limit on succulent containers. There are plenty of whimsical pots you can purchase, but you can make your own quite easily. It is often best to choose an interest or theme to get you started. For instance, you may chose a themed container scheme such as all kitchen objects, musical instruments, auto parts, or a nautical theme with driftwood and seashell containers. Use an old fish tank to create a terrarium effect with sandy soil and decorative rocks. Avoid plastic and heavily glazed containers, which will tend to keep in excess moisture and can pose problems for roots. Now that you have a few ideas, roam your own property, attic and garage and you are sure to find some creative solutions for succulent planters.
Succulent Container Ideas
One of my favorite plant groups are the succulents because there is an endless variety of form, color and texture available in these easy-to-grow plants. Creating cunning vignettes with succulents adds even more charm to already charismatic plants. Creative containers for succulents highlight their allure and enchant the eye.
Many unusual items make exceptional pots for growing succulent plants while providing a functional container. Look around your house and see what you can find that would make unusual containers for succulents. Most succulents grow well as indoor plants in small containers. Even larger succulents tend to like to be rather cramped in their abode. Make a green scene by planting succulents in an old teapot and teacups. Place larger succulents in an old metal sieve. Even cracked crockery, statues and other old kitchen containers make whimsical centerpieces. Creative containers for succulents are only limited by your imagination. Whatever you choose, make sure there are drainage holes and the soil is appropriate for that variety of succulent. Choosing cool pots for growing succulent plants will be of no avail if you don’t treat your plants properly and give them the lighting, temperature, food and moisture needs that are optimum for that species.
Industrial Containers for Succulent Gardens
Industry is what makes nations great, so why not carve out a piece of that history and plant in it? Cement blocks with tiny succulents inside the holes highlight the strength and resilience of these little plants. An old tool box with holes punched into the base, a rusted out metal fire pit, a broken fountain and even an unused watering pot, all make magnetic planters for succulents. The older the better, and even cracked or damaged items gain a certain cache once they are adorned with plants. So cruise your local construction sites, dumps and thrift stores for magical containers for succulent gardens.
Personalized Pots for Growing Succulent Plants
The sky is practically the limit on succulent containers. There are plenty of whimsical pots you can purchase, but you can make your own quite easily. It is often best to choose an interest or theme to get you started. For instance, you may chose a themed container scheme such as all kitchen objects, musical instruments, auto parts, or a nautical theme with driftwood and seashell containers. Use an old fish tank to create a terrarium effect with sandy soil and decorative rocks. Avoid plastic and heavily glazed containers, which will tend to keep in excess moisture and can pose problems for roots. Now that you have a few ideas, roam your own property, attic and garage and you are sure to find some creative solutions for succulent planters.
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成长记
Lucky Coyote
2017年08月18日
My tiny spiny succulents are doing great not that they're in the terrarium and not with my windowsill babies
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Lucky Coyote：@Lucky Coyote
Lucky Coyote：@Ueca
Lucky Coyote：@Ueca I shall find a ruler cx
Ueca：If you hold a ruler next to it I might be able to take a stab at the species.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Succulents, like all plants, are susceptible to pest infestations. Sometimes, the pests are readily visible and at other times difficult to see, but their damage is obvious. An example of this is succulent mite damage. Mites that affect succulents, of which there are many, are difficult to see with the naked eye but their damage is there for the world to see. Read on to find out about mites on succulent plants and succulent mite control.
Mites That Affect Succulents
Due to the dizzying array of succulents to choose from, many people are so fascinated by them they become virtual succulent hoarders. Collecting succulents is a great hobby but the one downside may be if the collection becomes pest infested. Pest and diseases especially afflict large collections and can be difficult to control in its entirety. Mealybugs, scale, whitefly, various weevils and a few varieties of mitesare examples of pests that attack succulents. Most pests can be controlled with systemic or contact insecticides, insecticidal soaps and sometimes natural predators. How about mites?
Succulent Mite Control
Spider mites damage both cacti and succulents by sucking the plant’s juices. The first sign you have spider mites on succulent plants will be webbing and small brown spots on young growth. These tiny “insects” are not really insects at all but are more closely related to spiders. They look like dust when viewed by the naked eye. Red spider mites are actually reddish-brown in color and thrive in hot, dry conditions. They dislike humidity, so misting and overhead watering can reduce their incidence. These red spider mites should not be confused with harmless, much larger red mite, which is a harmless predator mite. To thoroughly rid the plant of these mites, use a miticideaccording to the manufacturer’s directions. There is also a predator that can be used as a biological control, Phytoseiulus persimilis. This predator requires temperatures over 70 F. (21 C.) and it’s also difficult to maintain a balance between predator and prey. Spider mites are not the only mites responsible for afflicting succulents. Mites that feed on aloe also attack other species such as Haworthia and Gasteri, and are called eriophyid mites. Unlike spider mites, which have four sets of legs, these mites have two sets of legs. As this mite feeds, it injects a chemical into the tissue that results in galling or other abnormal growth. In the case of aloe plants, aloe succulent mite damage is irreversible and the plant must be discarded. Place infected plants in a plastic bag or incinerate to prevent contamination of other plants. If infestation is minimal, treat the plant with a miticide according to manufacturer’s instructions. Frost hardy aloes can be exposed to freezing temperatures, which will kill the mites. Another mite, the two-spotted mite, feeds primarily on yucca. Under a microscope, this mite is pink, yellow-green or red with two dark spots on its body. These mites have eight legs but no wings or antennae. Tell-tale signs of the presence of the two-spotted mite are tan or gray stippling of foliage. As the infestation progresses, again, a fine webbing can be seen on the undersides of leaves. If the infestation is severe, the plant will die. Insecticidal soap and keeping the plant area high in humidity by misting will retard the mite population. Also, chemical control with the aid of products known as acaricides will help. To really get a handle on the mites, inspect the succulents frequently so you can take action before the infestation gets out of hand. Keep the plants healthy with the proper amount of water, fertilizer and light. Remove any dead or dying succulent parts and dispose of truly ailing plants immediately.
Mites That Affect Succulents
Due to the dizzying array of succulents to choose from, many people are so fascinated by them they become virtual succulent hoarders. Collecting succulents is a great hobby but the one downside may be if the collection becomes pest infested. Pest and diseases especially afflict large collections and can be difficult to control in its entirety. Mealybugs, scale, whitefly, various weevils and a few varieties of mitesare examples of pests that attack succulents. Most pests can be controlled with systemic or contact insecticides, insecticidal soaps and sometimes natural predators. How about mites?
Succulent Mite Control
Spider mites damage both cacti and succulents by sucking the plant’s juices. The first sign you have spider mites on succulent plants will be webbing and small brown spots on young growth. These tiny “insects” are not really insects at all but are more closely related to spiders. They look like dust when viewed by the naked eye. Red spider mites are actually reddish-brown in color and thrive in hot, dry conditions. They dislike humidity, so misting and overhead watering can reduce their incidence. These red spider mites should not be confused with harmless, much larger red mite, which is a harmless predator mite. To thoroughly rid the plant of these mites, use a miticideaccording to the manufacturer’s directions. There is also a predator that can be used as a biological control, Phytoseiulus persimilis. This predator requires temperatures over 70 F. (21 C.) and it’s also difficult to maintain a balance between predator and prey. Spider mites are not the only mites responsible for afflicting succulents. Mites that feed on aloe also attack other species such as Haworthia and Gasteri, and are called eriophyid mites. Unlike spider mites, which have four sets of legs, these mites have two sets of legs. As this mite feeds, it injects a chemical into the tissue that results in galling or other abnormal growth. In the case of aloe plants, aloe succulent mite damage is irreversible and the plant must be discarded. Place infected plants in a plastic bag or incinerate to prevent contamination of other plants. If infestation is minimal, treat the plant with a miticide according to manufacturer’s instructions. Frost hardy aloes can be exposed to freezing temperatures, which will kill the mites. Another mite, the two-spotted mite, feeds primarily on yucca. Under a microscope, this mite is pink, yellow-green or red with two dark spots on its body. These mites have eight legs but no wings or antennae. Tell-tale signs of the presence of the two-spotted mite are tan or gray stippling of foliage. As the infestation progresses, again, a fine webbing can be seen on the undersides of leaves. If the infestation is severe, the plant will die. Insecticidal soap and keeping the plant area high in humidity by misting will retard the mite population. Also, chemical control with the aid of products known as acaricides will help. To really get a handle on the mites, inspect the succulents frequently so you can take action before the infestation gets out of hand. Keep the plants healthy with the proper amount of water, fertilizer and light. Remove any dead or dying succulent parts and dispose of truly ailing plants immediately.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Recently, cacti and other succulents in fancy little glass terrariums have become a hot ticket item. Even big box stores have jumped on the bandwagon. You can go to almost any Walmart, Home Depot, etc. and purchase a cool little terrarium filled with a mix of live cacti and succulents. The problem with this, however, is they took a really cool idea and then figured out how to cheaply mass produce them. No thought is put into proper drainage of these terrariums or each plant’s specific growing needs. To ensure that they’ll stick together through shipping and stocking, pebbles or sand are glued into place around the plants. They are basically made to look nice, just long enough for them to be sold. By the time you purchase them, they could have been severely neglected, watered improperly and sitting on death’s doorstep because of Dreschlera fungus or other rot diseases. Continue reading to learn if you can save a rotting cactus.
Causes of Stem Rot on Cactus
Dreschlera fungus is commonly known as cactus stem rot. The first signs and symptoms of Dreschlera cactus stem rot that you may notice are yellow to dark brown or black spots on the cactus. However, these spots are just what you see on the surface. Damage on the inside of the plant could be much more severe. Stem rot on cactus plants usually begins near the bottom of the plant, then works its way up and throughout the plant. Dreschlera fungus is spread by spores that often infect plant tissues that are already damaged or weakened. Symptoms can progress to a complete rotting of the bottom of the plant, causing the top to tip over or the center of the plant may sink in upon itself, or the whole plant may suddenly look like a shrunken mummy of a cactus. Cactus stem rot can kill a plant in as little as four days. Some common factors that contribute to stem rot on cactus plants are over watering or improper drainage, too much shade or humidity and damaged plant tissues from insects, pets, humans, etc.
Rotting Cactus Treatment
Once a cactus plant has rotted so severely that the top has tipped over, has sunken in on itself or looks like a shriveled mummy, it is too late to save it. If it is only showing some small spots of rot, there are a few things you can try to save a rotting cactus plant. First off, the plant should be removed from other plants, placed in a sort of quarantine and forced into a mock drought. You can simulate drought by placing the plant in sand, not watering it at all and using bright heat lamps. Sometimes, this is enough to kill small patches of Dreschlera fungus. You can also try to wash away fungal spots with q-tips or a small brush and disinfectant soap. Simply, scrub away the yellow to black fungal spots. Fungal spots can also be cut out, but you will need to cut widely around the spots because healthy looking tissues around the spots may already be infected. If you choose to try either of these methods, be sure to sanitize your tools, brushes or q-tips in rubbing alcohol or bleach and water between each scrub or cut. Immediately after scrubbing or cutting, spray the whole plant with copper fungicide, the fungicide Captan, or a bleach and water solution.
Causes of Stem Rot on Cactus
Dreschlera fungus is commonly known as cactus stem rot. The first signs and symptoms of Dreschlera cactus stem rot that you may notice are yellow to dark brown or black spots on the cactus. However, these spots are just what you see on the surface. Damage on the inside of the plant could be much more severe. Stem rot on cactus plants usually begins near the bottom of the plant, then works its way up and throughout the plant. Dreschlera fungus is spread by spores that often infect plant tissues that are already damaged or weakened. Symptoms can progress to a complete rotting of the bottom of the plant, causing the top to tip over or the center of the plant may sink in upon itself, or the whole plant may suddenly look like a shrunken mummy of a cactus. Cactus stem rot can kill a plant in as little as four days. Some common factors that contribute to stem rot on cactus plants are over watering or improper drainage, too much shade or humidity and damaged plant tissues from insects, pets, humans, etc.
Rotting Cactus Treatment
Once a cactus plant has rotted so severely that the top has tipped over, has sunken in on itself or looks like a shriveled mummy, it is too late to save it. If it is only showing some small spots of rot, there are a few things you can try to save a rotting cactus plant. First off, the plant should be removed from other plants, placed in a sort of quarantine and forced into a mock drought. You can simulate drought by placing the plant in sand, not watering it at all and using bright heat lamps. Sometimes, this is enough to kill small patches of Dreschlera fungus. You can also try to wash away fungal spots with q-tips or a small brush and disinfectant soap. Simply, scrub away the yellow to black fungal spots. Fungal spots can also be cut out, but you will need to cut widely around the spots because healthy looking tissues around the spots may already be infected. If you choose to try either of these methods, be sure to sanitize your tools, brushes or q-tips in rubbing alcohol or bleach and water between each scrub or cut. Immediately after scrubbing or cutting, spray the whole plant with copper fungicide, the fungicide Captan, or a bleach and water solution.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
When you think of cacti and other succulents, you probably think of dry, sandy, desert conditions. It’s hard to imagine that fungal and bacterial rots could grow in such dry conditions. Actually, cacti are susceptible to a number of rot diseases, just like any other plant. While oftentimes cactus rot diseases are caused by too much water and humidity, this article will specifically discuss Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants.
Erwinia Soft Rot in Cactus
Erwinia carotovora bacterium is a bacteria caused soft rot of cactus. Bacterial soft rots affect many other plants besides cacti and succulents. In fact, soft rot contributes to major crop failure of many vegetables. Plants with calcium deficiencies are specifically at risk. Erwinia carotovora is also known as Pectobacterium carotovia. Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is caused by bacteria entering wounds or natural openings of the plant. Wounds can be from insect damage, pet damage, accidentally knocking the plant with gardening tools, etc. On cactus plants, it will take at least a week for a wound to scab over, depending, of course, on the size of the wound. In humid, wet weather, cactus rot diseases can spread very quickly. The ideal temperatures for soft rot development are between 70-80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) with high humidity. Soft rot can affect any part of the cactus plant, including roots that have been damaged by transplanting, insects or other pests.
Treating Rotting Cactus Plants
Soft rot of cactus plants can be spread to other plants by insects, dirty gardening tools and moving of garden debris. It is important to always keep the garden free of possibly diseased garden debris and to thoroughly sanitize your garden tools between each use. Also, if a cactus plant develops a wound anywhere on it and from anything, treat the wound immediately with copper fungicide or a solution of bleach and water. Cactus plants with soft rot may first appear to have watery looking scabs on them. Then the plant tissues will turn brown to black in these spots. You may notice a foul smelling seepage or discharge from these areas as well. There is no cure for rotting cactus plants once it is showing these symptoms. The best way to handle Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is to take preventative measures to avoid it. Clean wounds immediately and thoroughly, keep the plant dry and out of humidity and once a year feed the cactus plant a fertilizer with a boost of calcium.
Erwinia Soft Rot in Cactus
Erwinia carotovora bacterium is a bacteria caused soft rot of cactus. Bacterial soft rots affect many other plants besides cacti and succulents. In fact, soft rot contributes to major crop failure of many vegetables. Plants with calcium deficiencies are specifically at risk. Erwinia carotovora is also known as Pectobacterium carotovia. Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is caused by bacteria entering wounds or natural openings of the plant. Wounds can be from insect damage, pet damage, accidentally knocking the plant with gardening tools, etc. On cactus plants, it will take at least a week for a wound to scab over, depending, of course, on the size of the wound. In humid, wet weather, cactus rot diseases can spread very quickly. The ideal temperatures for soft rot development are between 70-80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) with high humidity. Soft rot can affect any part of the cactus plant, including roots that have been damaged by transplanting, insects or other pests.
Treating Rotting Cactus Plants
Soft rot of cactus plants can be spread to other plants by insects, dirty gardening tools and moving of garden debris. It is important to always keep the garden free of possibly diseased garden debris and to thoroughly sanitize your garden tools between each use. Also, if a cactus plant develops a wound anywhere on it and from anything, treat the wound immediately with copper fungicide or a solution of bleach and water. Cactus plants with soft rot may first appear to have watery looking scabs on them. Then the plant tissues will turn brown to black in these spots. You may notice a foul smelling seepage or discharge from these areas as well. There is no cure for rotting cactus plants once it is showing these symptoms. The best way to handle Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is to take preventative measures to avoid it. Clean wounds immediately and thoroughly, keep the plant dry and out of humidity and once a year feed the cactus plant a fertilizer with a boost of calcium.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cacti come in a bewildering array of forms. These marvelous succulents have incredible adaptations to survive the inhospitable terrains they generally inhabit. Epiphyllum curly locks is an example of a cactus that uses its stems to capture more moisture and light. The plant has curly, curved stems which are the result of a mutation of a plant called Epiphyllum guatemalense. The name for this mutated cactus is Epiphyllum monstrosa. If you know someone with the plant, it is easy to learn how to grow curly locks from stem fragments.
Epiphyllum Curly Locks Info
Epiphytic plants live in trees and rock crevasses. The mother of the Epiphyllum cactus, curly locks, was from Guatemala. It was a plant that sprouted one or more abnormal curved stems. These were harvested and cloned to produce the crazy little cactus we propagate today. These plants are wonderful hanging basket specimens and make quite the conversation piece with their twisted, arching limbs.
In nature, curly locks might be growing in a tree crotch or other almost soilless area. Epiphyllums are often called air plants because they do not rely upon terra firma as their growing medium. Curly locks have bright green, twisting stems. It produces 3-inch wide white flowers with 6-inch long tubes that open at night. This is because in nature it is pollinated by moths and bats, and these night animals can see the big white blooms easily. Oval, bright pink seedy fruits form once blooms are pollinated. These fruits are juicy and edible. The plant is also self-pollinating and fruits can form even without the intervention of insects and mammals. Epiphyllum plants are often called orchid cacti.
How to Grow Curly Locks
Most Epiphyllum cacti are easy to grow from pieces of the stem. Allow cut pieces to callus for several days then plant into an appropriate medium. Make your own potting mix with 3 parts commercial potting soil and 1 part small to medium pumice. If pumice is not available, use bark chips or perlite. The soil must hold moisture but drain quickly. Keep the cutting in low light until it roots. Do not let the medium dry out but don’t let it get soggy either. The orchid cactus cutting needs to be installed 1 or 2 inches below the soil at a serration. Rooting should occur in a couple of weeks and after that the plant really takes off, producing new curled stems.
Curly Locks Orchid Cactus Care
The biggest danger is overwatering. The cactus needs to have moist roots at all times but they should not be sitting in a dish of water. Make sure the top 1/3 of the soil is dry before watering. In late winter, expose the cactus to cooler temperatures to promote spring flowering. Keep them in the basement or a garage for a couple of weeks to spur bud formation. The other biggest danger when raising Epiphyllums is lighting. Consider that these plants grow in thick forests in the understory and are used to dappled light at best. Just like any plant, they need light but should be protected from bright midday light. Morning sun is preferable with indirect light the rest of the way. If you find a spot where the cactus is happy, make sure to leave it there, as they do not like change. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted weekly during the growing season. In February, feed the plant with a 2-10-10 to promote blooming. Repot every 7 years or so, but be warned, the plant only blooms when it is pot bound. It might be best to wait and see if you get flowers before giving the plant a new home.
Epiphyllum Curly Locks Info
Epiphytic plants live in trees and rock crevasses. The mother of the Epiphyllum cactus, curly locks, was from Guatemala. It was a plant that sprouted one or more abnormal curved stems. These were harvested and cloned to produce the crazy little cactus we propagate today. These plants are wonderful hanging basket specimens and make quite the conversation piece with their twisted, arching limbs.
In nature, curly locks might be growing in a tree crotch or other almost soilless area. Epiphyllums are often called air plants because they do not rely upon terra firma as their growing medium. Curly locks have bright green, twisting stems. It produces 3-inch wide white flowers with 6-inch long tubes that open at night. This is because in nature it is pollinated by moths and bats, and these night animals can see the big white blooms easily. Oval, bright pink seedy fruits form once blooms are pollinated. These fruits are juicy and edible. The plant is also self-pollinating and fruits can form even without the intervention of insects and mammals. Epiphyllum plants are often called orchid cacti.
How to Grow Curly Locks
Most Epiphyllum cacti are easy to grow from pieces of the stem. Allow cut pieces to callus for several days then plant into an appropriate medium. Make your own potting mix with 3 parts commercial potting soil and 1 part small to medium pumice. If pumice is not available, use bark chips or perlite. The soil must hold moisture but drain quickly. Keep the cutting in low light until it roots. Do not let the medium dry out but don’t let it get soggy either. The orchid cactus cutting needs to be installed 1 or 2 inches below the soil at a serration. Rooting should occur in a couple of weeks and after that the plant really takes off, producing new curled stems.
Curly Locks Orchid Cactus Care
The biggest danger is overwatering. The cactus needs to have moist roots at all times but they should not be sitting in a dish of water. Make sure the top 1/3 of the soil is dry before watering. In late winter, expose the cactus to cooler temperatures to promote spring flowering. Keep them in the basement or a garage for a couple of weeks to spur bud formation. The other biggest danger when raising Epiphyllums is lighting. Consider that these plants grow in thick forests in the understory and are used to dappled light at best. Just like any plant, they need light but should be protected from bright midday light. Morning sun is preferable with indirect light the rest of the way. If you find a spot where the cactus is happy, make sure to leave it there, as they do not like change. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted weekly during the growing season. In February, feed the plant with a 2-10-10 to promote blooming. Repot every 7 years or so, but be warned, the plant only blooms when it is pot bound. It might be best to wait and see if you get flowers before giving the plant a new home.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Collectors of succulents will be excited about Crassula pagoda plants. For sheer architectural interest, this unique plant evokes images of a trip to Shanghai where religious temples reflect the unimaginable forms of stacked architecture and astounding building prowess. Red Pagoda Crassula is an easy-to-grow plant that will add punch to any succulent display or as a stand-alone specimen. Here are a few tips on how to grow Red Pagoda and harness the impact of its structure and colorful foliage.
Red Pagoda Crassula
Succulents offer a wide range of form to suit any discernible gardener. The Crassula genus has over 150 different species, each more surprising than the last. The fairly common jade plant is in the genus. Crassula pagoda plants have an even more diverse “wow” factor. The stacked triangular foliage edged with red and fine prickly spines are eye candy for the succulent enthusiast. Growing Crassula Red Pagoda is a must for the gardener crazy about succulents and collecting.
Red Pagoda (Crassula corymbulosa) grows spirally arranged, thick fleshy leaves bordered with bright pink, red or sometimes orange. Once you get over the color, the geometric arrangement of the leaves will astound and amaze. The effect of the layered leaves is hard to describe without invoking artistic expression. Each new rosette of leaves grows on top of an older rosette. The new leaves are mostly green and small but they get larger and larger with brighter colors as you view down the plant’s stem. The effect is almost an optical illusion of looking into a deeply hued, ribbed tunnel. The plant is also called shark’s tooth due to the triangular serrated pads.
How to Grow Red Pagoda
Soil, light and air circulation are key needs for growing Crassula Red Pagoda. The stems are initially erect but over time, as new rosettes form, it will begin to trail. This means you can grow the plant in a hanging basket. It is equally at home in a rockery, clay pot or amongst a display of other succulents in the garden. Red Pagoda is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 11 to 12 but it performs well as a houseplant, too. Plants prefer well-drained soil with plenty of grit but can survive in amended clay soil. Like most succulents, Red Pagoda is easy to grow from cuttings. Allow the cutting to callus for a few days and insert into a soilless medium. In a month or so, the plant will root and can be transplanted to a display container or the garden.
Caring for Crassula Succulents
Red Pagoda gets its deepest, most vibrant color in winter in a bright location. Plants located in sun develop hues that are rich and jewel-like. The plant has low water needs but it is best to follow a regular schedule of watering in the first year to force a vigorous root system. Red Pagoda is both deer and rabbit resistant, thrives in drought conditions for short periods of time, can perform well in either full or partial sun and has low nutrient requirements. About the only thing that will kill the plant is overwatering, which causes root rot, and a few pests such as mealybugs and aphids. Remove the spent leaves to preserve the best appearance. Lazy gardeners will love caring for Crassula succulents due to their unfussy natures. Good care may see you rewarded in summer with lovely white flowers that are attractive to bees. Divide the plants every 2 or 3 years and share the gift of this unique plant.
Red Pagoda Crassula
Succulents offer a wide range of form to suit any discernible gardener. The Crassula genus has over 150 different species, each more surprising than the last. The fairly common jade plant is in the genus. Crassula pagoda plants have an even more diverse “wow” factor. The stacked triangular foliage edged with red and fine prickly spines are eye candy for the succulent enthusiast. Growing Crassula Red Pagoda is a must for the gardener crazy about succulents and collecting.
Red Pagoda (Crassula corymbulosa) grows spirally arranged, thick fleshy leaves bordered with bright pink, red or sometimes orange. Once you get over the color, the geometric arrangement of the leaves will astound and amaze. The effect of the layered leaves is hard to describe without invoking artistic expression. Each new rosette of leaves grows on top of an older rosette. The new leaves are mostly green and small but they get larger and larger with brighter colors as you view down the plant’s stem. The effect is almost an optical illusion of looking into a deeply hued, ribbed tunnel. The plant is also called shark’s tooth due to the triangular serrated pads.
How to Grow Red Pagoda
Soil, light and air circulation are key needs for growing Crassula Red Pagoda. The stems are initially erect but over time, as new rosettes form, it will begin to trail. This means you can grow the plant in a hanging basket. It is equally at home in a rockery, clay pot or amongst a display of other succulents in the garden. Red Pagoda is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 11 to 12 but it performs well as a houseplant, too. Plants prefer well-drained soil with plenty of grit but can survive in amended clay soil. Like most succulents, Red Pagoda is easy to grow from cuttings. Allow the cutting to callus for a few days and insert into a soilless medium. In a month or so, the plant will root and can be transplanted to a display container or the garden.
Caring for Crassula Succulents
Red Pagoda gets its deepest, most vibrant color in winter in a bright location. Plants located in sun develop hues that are rich and jewel-like. The plant has low water needs but it is best to follow a regular schedule of watering in the first year to force a vigorous root system. Red Pagoda is both deer and rabbit resistant, thrives in drought conditions for short periods of time, can perform well in either full or partial sun and has low nutrient requirements. About the only thing that will kill the plant is overwatering, which causes root rot, and a few pests such as mealybugs and aphids. Remove the spent leaves to preserve the best appearance. Lazy gardeners will love caring for Crassula succulents due to their unfussy natures. Good care may see you rewarded in summer with lovely white flowers that are attractive to bees. Divide the plants every 2 or 3 years and share the gift of this unique plant.
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