文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
There’s a lot to love about gardening with succulents. These attractive plants are drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, making succulents ideal for busy gardeners of all ages. Under the right growing conditions, these carefree plants rarely suffer from diseases or pests. To get you started, here are several helpful tips for growing succulents.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are basically plants that store water in their thick, fleshy stems and leaves. Included in this group of plants are cacti, Aloe and many other genera. Succulents come in a wide array of colors, shapes and textures.
Many succulents flower in different colors, but the plants are often valued most for their foliage. The leaves can be variegated and come in colors ranging from blue-gray and green to yellow, red and pink.
Raised Beds or Gardens
Succulents require excellent drainage. If you have a heavy clay soil, consider gardening with succulents in raised beds, which have plenty of coarse sand or pea gravel mixed with organic matter. Don’t mulch heavily with wood chips, as this could retain too much moisture in rainy areas.
Gardening with Succulents in Containers
Succulents grow well in containers, which makes it convenient for bringing the plants indoors during colder weather. Terracotta containers are excellent for gardening with succulents, because they provide good drainage.
When growing succulents in containers, use a fast-draining planting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Or, consider adding perlite to increase drainage in your potting soil.
Many succulents tend to be shallow rooted, so they grow well in shallow containers with drainage. Cover drain holes with fine screens so the soil doesn’t wash out.
Experiment with mixing succulents, with Agaves, Echeverias, Sedums and other drought-tolerant plants for a dramatic effect. Or, plant a single species in a pot to showcase its beauty.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are basically plants that store water in their thick, fleshy stems and leaves. Included in this group of plants are cacti, Aloe and many other genera. Succulents come in a wide array of colors, shapes and textures.
Many succulents flower in different colors, but the plants are often valued most for their foliage. The leaves can be variegated and come in colors ranging from blue-gray and green to yellow, red and pink.
Raised Beds or Gardens
Succulents require excellent drainage. If you have a heavy clay soil, consider gardening with succulents in raised beds, which have plenty of coarse sand or pea gravel mixed with organic matter. Don’t mulch heavily with wood chips, as this could retain too much moisture in rainy areas.
Gardening with Succulents in Containers
Succulents grow well in containers, which makes it convenient for bringing the plants indoors during colder weather. Terracotta containers are excellent for gardening with succulents, because they provide good drainage.
When growing succulents in containers, use a fast-draining planting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Or, consider adding perlite to increase drainage in your potting soil.
Many succulents tend to be shallow rooted, so they grow well in shallow containers with drainage. Cover drain holes with fine screens so the soil doesn’t wash out.
Experiment with mixing succulents, with Agaves, Echeverias, Sedums and other drought-tolerant plants for a dramatic effect. Or, plant a single species in a pot to showcase its beauty.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
It’s possible to grow succulents in pots without drainage holes because they require less water than other plants and you only need to water them occasionally. Their specialized stems and leaves store water for long periods. Classic Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum tectorum) make a suitable succulent plant for beginners and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Mix forms and colors of various succulent types to make a pleasing display.
The Root of the Problem
Few plants, including succulents, can survive their roots drowning in water. For plants to stay healthy, their roots need air. Overwatering causes a number of diseases and without taking steps to prevent wet roots, your succulents may succumb.
Scab is a disease caused by excess water. Symptoms include corky brown scabs appearing on the stems of the succulent. Some species of cactus are especially susceptible to scab. Decrease watering and increase light to fight scab.
Stem and root rot can kill overwatered succulents. Various soil fungi multiply in the presence of excess water. The plants wilt and a brown or black ring appears at the base of the stem, above the soil. If only the roots show disease, cut away rotted roots with a sharp knife and repot the plant in sterile soil. Wipe the blade between cuts with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to help prevent spreading the fungi.
Working With Containers That Don’t Drain
A few tricks help minimize the risk of diseases from wet soil. The main trick is to water the plant normally but after a few minutes, tip the planter sideways and drain out excess water.
Double potting helps overcome the problem of no drainage holes in a planter. Grow the succulent in a pot liner or smaller container that can sit inside the larger, nondraining container. Make at least four holes in the liner or small container if it doesn’t have them. Layer the bottom of the larger, outer planter with gravel.
After watering the plant, wait a few minutes for excess water to drip out of the smaller container. Lift the plant in the liner from the larger container and dump the excess water. After draining, place the liner or small planter back inside the larger one.
If the container doesn’t have drain holes, you’ll need to be more careful with watering. Water the container only enough to wet the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil. Allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. It should only need watering once every two weeks.
Potting Soil Choices
Succulents require soil that is loose and drains well. A cactus or succulent soil from the garden center works, or you can mix your own. When preparing the soil for a container, use a mixture that contains equal portions of sand and garden soil. If your budget allows, a better soil mixture is equal parts loam, sand, peat-moss and perlite. Aged compost can be substituted for loam.
Test the soil’s quality by moistening a handful of the mixture and trying to squeeze it into a ball. If it is the proper consistency for succulents, the soil will not become compacted but will fall apart.
Fertilize Lightly
Cacti only require fertilizer once or twice each year, during spring and summer, while other succulents should be fertilized three to four times during the summer. Choose a houseplant fertilizer such as 3-7-7 that has more phosphorus than nitrogen.
Dilute the mixture to one-half the standard concentration recommended on the product label, so mix 5 to 10 drops in 1 quart of water instead of 10 to 20 drops. Check the instructions as rates vary by brand. Soak the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil around the plants completely. Use the fertilizer solution in place of a regular watering.
The Right Light
Succulents need the right amount of light to keep them healthy. Outdoors, place them in full sun or part shade. Indoors, placing the planter near a sunny window should provide enough light, but a cool white fluorescent tube is a good substitute if direct sunlight is lacking. Place the tube 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) above the plant for 14 to16 hours each day. Use a timer to help automate the process.
The Root of the Problem
Few plants, including succulents, can survive their roots drowning in water. For plants to stay healthy, their roots need air. Overwatering causes a number of diseases and without taking steps to prevent wet roots, your succulents may succumb.
Scab is a disease caused by excess water. Symptoms include corky brown scabs appearing on the stems of the succulent. Some species of cactus are especially susceptible to scab. Decrease watering and increase light to fight scab.
Stem and root rot can kill overwatered succulents. Various soil fungi multiply in the presence of excess water. The plants wilt and a brown or black ring appears at the base of the stem, above the soil. If only the roots show disease, cut away rotted roots with a sharp knife and repot the plant in sterile soil. Wipe the blade between cuts with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to help prevent spreading the fungi.
Working With Containers That Don’t Drain
A few tricks help minimize the risk of diseases from wet soil. The main trick is to water the plant normally but after a few minutes, tip the planter sideways and drain out excess water.
Double potting helps overcome the problem of no drainage holes in a planter. Grow the succulent in a pot liner or smaller container that can sit inside the larger, nondraining container. Make at least four holes in the liner or small container if it doesn’t have them. Layer the bottom of the larger, outer planter with gravel.
After watering the plant, wait a few minutes for excess water to drip out of the smaller container. Lift the plant in the liner from the larger container and dump the excess water. After draining, place the liner or small planter back inside the larger one.
If the container doesn’t have drain holes, you’ll need to be more careful with watering. Water the container only enough to wet the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil. Allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. It should only need watering once every two weeks.
Potting Soil Choices
Succulents require soil that is loose and drains well. A cactus or succulent soil from the garden center works, or you can mix your own. When preparing the soil for a container, use a mixture that contains equal portions of sand and garden soil. If your budget allows, a better soil mixture is equal parts loam, sand, peat-moss and perlite. Aged compost can be substituted for loam.
Test the soil’s quality by moistening a handful of the mixture and trying to squeeze it into a ball. If it is the proper consistency for succulents, the soil will not become compacted but will fall apart.
Fertilize Lightly
Cacti only require fertilizer once or twice each year, during spring and summer, while other succulents should be fertilized three to four times during the summer. Choose a houseplant fertilizer such as 3-7-7 that has more phosphorus than nitrogen.
Dilute the mixture to one-half the standard concentration recommended on the product label, so mix 5 to 10 drops in 1 quart of water instead of 10 to 20 drops. Check the instructions as rates vary by brand. Soak the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil around the plants completely. Use the fertilizer solution in place of a regular watering.
The Right Light
Succulents need the right amount of light to keep them healthy. Outdoors, place them in full sun or part shade. Indoors, placing the planter near a sunny window should provide enough light, but a cool white fluorescent tube is a good substitute if direct sunlight is lacking. Place the tube 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) above the plant for 14 to16 hours each day. Use a timer to help automate the process.
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2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you want beautiful yards that can survive extreme drought conditions, it’s time you become familiar with succulent gardening.
What are succulents?
Succulents are plants with a highly specialized anatomy that allows them to withstand prolonged drought conditions. They’re the camels of the plant world and, like camels, they store water for later use. If you see a plant with fleshy stems, roots, or leaves, it’s most likely a succulent.
Leaf Succulents
This is probably the succulent most everyone can recognize. Examples include Aloe, Agave, and Jade Plant.
Stem Succulents
The type of succulent stores large amounts of water in their stems, which are usually round, columnar, or sword-like.
Root Succulents
Some succulents store their water underground in large tuberous roots.
How to Care for Succulents
All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. This means some succulents like dry heat, and others do best in moist shade of the jungle. It’s a myth that cacti and succulents require little to no care.
Those succulents that prefer warm heat do best outdoors in full sun, while the jungle succulents love life under a shady tree or patio. All succulents and cacti require feeding during the growing season, just like every other plant. They need to be pruned or split when they grow too big. There is a succulent for almost every region of the world, even areas with snow, so don’t worry that there isn’t one you can grow in your area.
How to Display Succulents
Succulents do very well in containers, so if you have limited space or live in an apartment with a small balcony, you’re in luck! Terracotta containers are ideal for tall plants. The weight of the terracotta balances top-heavy plants, which means you won’t come home to a toppled succulent.
Line a woven basket with plastic or an old dish and you have the perfect vessel for spiny and smooth skinned succulents.
Milky white succulents—or plants with white spines—look nice in metal containers. Just make sure the container is made of a metal that won’t corrode. Stainless steel is a good option.
Don’t limit yourself to traditional containers. These plants are perfect to plant in unique found objects.
What are succulents?
Succulents are plants with a highly specialized anatomy that allows them to withstand prolonged drought conditions. They’re the camels of the plant world and, like camels, they store water for later use. If you see a plant with fleshy stems, roots, or leaves, it’s most likely a succulent.
Leaf Succulents
This is probably the succulent most everyone can recognize. Examples include Aloe, Agave, and Jade Plant.
Stem Succulents
The type of succulent stores large amounts of water in their stems, which are usually round, columnar, or sword-like.
Root Succulents
Some succulents store their water underground in large tuberous roots.
How to Care for Succulents
All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. This means some succulents like dry heat, and others do best in moist shade of the jungle. It’s a myth that cacti and succulents require little to no care.
Those succulents that prefer warm heat do best outdoors in full sun, while the jungle succulents love life under a shady tree or patio. All succulents and cacti require feeding during the growing season, just like every other plant. They need to be pruned or split when they grow too big. There is a succulent for almost every region of the world, even areas with snow, so don’t worry that there isn’t one you can grow in your area.
How to Display Succulents
Succulents do very well in containers, so if you have limited space or live in an apartment with a small balcony, you’re in luck! Terracotta containers are ideal for tall plants. The weight of the terracotta balances top-heavy plants, which means you won’t come home to a toppled succulent.
Line a woven basket with plastic or an old dish and you have the perfect vessel for spiny and smooth skinned succulents.
Milky white succulents—or plants with white spines—look nice in metal containers. Just make sure the container is made of a metal that won’t corrode. Stainless steel is a good option.
Don’t limit yourself to traditional containers. These plants are perfect to plant in unique found objects.
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2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti and succulents are among the most unique type of indoor plant. Through millions of years of evolution, they have developed amazing methods of water storage and self protection. This evolution enables them to survive in some of the most desolate growing areas on earth. 
For indoor plants, cacti and succulents are the perfect choice. Typical hot, dry indoor conditions are often harmful to leafy foliage plants, but provide the ideal climate for many kinds of succulent plants. In addition, these plants are very tolerant of neglect, requiring little watering or other care throughout the greater part of the year. The results are often large, colorful blossoms, an added bonus whenever they appear.
Outdoors, cacti and succulents are a great addition in the landscape or on a patio during the summer. Although most cacti plants are not able to protect themselves from frost, a few will survive even the coldest of winter climates.
No matter what you desire in plants, cacti and succulents have the diversity and adaptability to suit almost any lifestyle. A small investment will reward you with enjoyment for many years to come.
Secrets of Growing Cacti and Succulents
A succulent is generally considered to be any plant which has the natural ability to store water in its body or roots. There are over 2500 varieties of cacti. Hundreds of these varieties are available commercially. True cacti are one type of succulent; they are members of the plant family Cactaceae. All cacti are native to the Western Hemisphere, and although many bear spines, this characteristic alone does not make them cacti. A true cactus is distinguished by the presence of areoles, small nubbin-like structures which occur over the body of the plant. Cactus spines, as well as roots and the flowers, always grow from these areoles, whereas spines on succulents other than cacti grow directly out of the body of the plant. Their unique adaptation also enables succulent plants to store water, quickly and in great volume.
Remember: Cacti and succulents, even though they are tough, adaptable plants, they do not “thrive on neglect”. Rather, they “exist” with neglect, but “thrive” on tender loving care. Due to their low humidity requirements many cacti do better in the dry air of homes with central heat than most other houseplants. They also do very well outside during the summer months in areas of the country with low humidity and warm night temperatures.
Lignt
Indoors give them as much bright light as you can or your sunniest window. They will stretch and get weak and skinny trying to get to more light if kept in a dark or shady location. Outdoors they can burn if given too much direct hot sun all day, so try to provide an area with filtered sun, or a place where they receive a few hours of direct sun and then bright light the rest of the day.
Watering
Most cacti have small root systems and are susceptible to damage from too much moisture. Allow plants to dry thoroughly between waterings. A good rule of thumb for watering is to skip one week for every 1 inch (2.5 cm) of pot size. Example: 2 inches (5 cm) pot – water once every 2 weeks, 3 inches (7.5 cm) pot – water once every 3 weeks, etc.
Another thing to remember is when you water, water well! Make sure that the water is running through all of the soil and flushing out the bottom of the pot. A well-watered pot will feel much heavier than one that didn’t get thoroughly saturated, and never let the plant sit in standing water for any length of time. If you have watered the pot well, you will know when it is time to water again by just sticking your finger about an inch (2.5 cm) down into the soil. If it’s damp, it’s fine. If it’s dry, then it’s time to water again — and water well!
Temperature
Regular household temperatures are great, but in the wintertime be sure to keep them away from freezing temperatures next to a window. They can handle 35°F to 40°F (2°C to 5°C) just fine and will be dormant (resting, not growing) at these temperatures. The same goes for outdoors; if it is going to go below 35°F (2°C), bring them inside to shelter. Freezing temperatures will turn most cacti and succulents into goo!
Soil
There are plenty of major garden centers around that carry commercially packaged cactus and succulent mix for sale. If you need to make your own, here’s a good all purpose mix: for every one part of a good potting soil or humus, add two parts of perlite or pumice and one part washed builder’s sand.
Fertilizer
Cacti and succulents are not heavy feeders but do benefit from light feeding during their growing period – usually the warmer months of the year (March through October). Any all purpose balanced liquid fertilizer is fine, something like a 20-20-20. Mix it to half or even a quarter of the recommended strength on the label and give it once a month. When in doubt it is always better to not fertilize than to over do it.
Little to no feeding during the dormant months, usually during the winter months, is necessary.
Transplanting
Your plant will be perfectly happy in the original pot for at least a year and doesn’t really need to be moved. However if it has been a year and it is getting too big for the pot, or you just want to put it in a special or favorite pot, here’s what to do. First be sure to choose a pot that is only a size larger than the original.
If your plants are in a 2.5 inches (6 cm) pot, the best next size up would be a 3 inches (8 cm) diameter, and be sure the pots have drain holes.
Gently tap the plant out of its pot and carefully loosen some of the soil around the outside of the root ball. Put some soil mix in the new pot and set the root ball on top of it. Fill in around it with new soil lightly firming it in making sure that the plant is sitting at the same soil level it was originally.
Do not water for a few days; this allows any roots that might have been broken a chance to heal over – then water and let it drain thoroughly.
Propagation
The main ways in which cacti and succulents are propagated are by cuttings, seeds, and offsets. To select the appropriate way to propagate your plant, observe how it grows. Most barrel types are grown from seed or offsets. Columnar or pad types are grown mainly from cuttings. Certain forms are grafted to another in order to grow.
Most seeds are easily germinated and many commercial varieties are self-fertile. Offsets (pups) can be stripped from the mother plants and replanted immediately. Cuttings should be left to dry, out of direct sun light for up to 2 weeks. This drying period allows the cut area to “heal”.
For indoor plants, cacti and succulents are the perfect choice. Typical hot, dry indoor conditions are often harmful to leafy foliage plants, but provide the ideal climate for many kinds of succulent plants. In addition, these plants are very tolerant of neglect, requiring little watering or other care throughout the greater part of the year. The results are often large, colorful blossoms, an added bonus whenever they appear.
Outdoors, cacti and succulents are a great addition in the landscape or on a patio during the summer. Although most cacti plants are not able to protect themselves from frost, a few will survive even the coldest of winter climates.
No matter what you desire in plants, cacti and succulents have the diversity and adaptability to suit almost any lifestyle. A small investment will reward you with enjoyment for many years to come.
Secrets of Growing Cacti and Succulents
A succulent is generally considered to be any plant which has the natural ability to store water in its body or roots. There are over 2500 varieties of cacti. Hundreds of these varieties are available commercially. True cacti are one type of succulent; they are members of the plant family Cactaceae. All cacti are native to the Western Hemisphere, and although many bear spines, this characteristic alone does not make them cacti. A true cactus is distinguished by the presence of areoles, small nubbin-like structures which occur over the body of the plant. Cactus spines, as well as roots and the flowers, always grow from these areoles, whereas spines on succulents other than cacti grow directly out of the body of the plant. Their unique adaptation also enables succulent plants to store water, quickly and in great volume.
Remember: Cacti and succulents, even though they are tough, adaptable plants, they do not “thrive on neglect”. Rather, they “exist” with neglect, but “thrive” on tender loving care. Due to their low humidity requirements many cacti do better in the dry air of homes with central heat than most other houseplants. They also do very well outside during the summer months in areas of the country with low humidity and warm night temperatures.
Lignt
Indoors give them as much bright light as you can or your sunniest window. They will stretch and get weak and skinny trying to get to more light if kept in a dark or shady location. Outdoors they can burn if given too much direct hot sun all day, so try to provide an area with filtered sun, or a place where they receive a few hours of direct sun and then bright light the rest of the day.
Watering
Most cacti have small root systems and are susceptible to damage from too much moisture. Allow plants to dry thoroughly between waterings. A good rule of thumb for watering is to skip one week for every 1 inch (2.5 cm) of pot size. Example: 2 inches (5 cm) pot – water once every 2 weeks, 3 inches (7.5 cm) pot – water once every 3 weeks, etc.
Another thing to remember is when you water, water well! Make sure that the water is running through all of the soil and flushing out the bottom of the pot. A well-watered pot will feel much heavier than one that didn’t get thoroughly saturated, and never let the plant sit in standing water for any length of time. If you have watered the pot well, you will know when it is time to water again by just sticking your finger about an inch (2.5 cm) down into the soil. If it’s damp, it’s fine. If it’s dry, then it’s time to water again — and water well!
Temperature
Regular household temperatures are great, but in the wintertime be sure to keep them away from freezing temperatures next to a window. They can handle 35°F to 40°F (2°C to 5°C) just fine and will be dormant (resting, not growing) at these temperatures. The same goes for outdoors; if it is going to go below 35°F (2°C), bring them inside to shelter. Freezing temperatures will turn most cacti and succulents into goo!
Soil
There are plenty of major garden centers around that carry commercially packaged cactus and succulent mix for sale. If you need to make your own, here’s a good all purpose mix: for every one part of a good potting soil or humus, add two parts of perlite or pumice and one part washed builder’s sand.
Fertilizer
Cacti and succulents are not heavy feeders but do benefit from light feeding during their growing period – usually the warmer months of the year (March through October). Any all purpose balanced liquid fertilizer is fine, something like a 20-20-20. Mix it to half or even a quarter of the recommended strength on the label and give it once a month. When in doubt it is always better to not fertilize than to over do it.
Little to no feeding during the dormant months, usually during the winter months, is necessary.
Transplanting
Your plant will be perfectly happy in the original pot for at least a year and doesn’t really need to be moved. However if it has been a year and it is getting too big for the pot, or you just want to put it in a special or favorite pot, here’s what to do. First be sure to choose a pot that is only a size larger than the original.
If your plants are in a 2.5 inches (6 cm) pot, the best next size up would be a 3 inches (8 cm) diameter, and be sure the pots have drain holes.
Gently tap the plant out of its pot and carefully loosen some of the soil around the outside of the root ball. Put some soil mix in the new pot and set the root ball on top of it. Fill in around it with new soil lightly firming it in making sure that the plant is sitting at the same soil level it was originally.
Do not water for a few days; this allows any roots that might have been broken a chance to heal over – then water and let it drain thoroughly.
Propagation
The main ways in which cacti and succulents are propagated are by cuttings, seeds, and offsets. To select the appropriate way to propagate your plant, observe how it grows. Most barrel types are grown from seed or offsets. Columnar or pad types are grown mainly from cuttings. Certain forms are grafted to another in order to grow.
Most seeds are easily germinated and many commercial varieties are self-fertile. Offsets (pups) can be stripped from the mother plants and replanted immediately. Cuttings should be left to dry, out of direct sun light for up to 2 weeks. This drying period allows the cut area to “heal”.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents are the perfect plant to fall in love with. They have low moisture needs and can be a cinch to cultivate. And, they’re everywhere: all over Pinterest, gracing gardening magazines and blogs, and even in featured in retail displays in jewelry stores, furniture stores, and more.
It’s not really a surprise: Succulents are beautiful and offer gorgeous tones of silver, blue, and purple as well as the more traditional tones of green found in more familiar houseplants.
Ever wonder how to care for them? Here are three easy tips:
1. Shine On
Low-water succulents thrive in lots and lots of light. If you’ve been told to keep your houseplants out of direct sun, forget that rule with succulents. They love the sun, both indoors and out.
Don’t have a sunny spot? Don’t worry! Succulents also do great in artificial light. And you don’t need to have special bulbs; regular florescent or LED bulbs are ideal. In fact, an inexpensive shop light will give succulents good light. Suspend the shop lights 6 inches (15 cm) over your succulents. When it comes to light, more really is better with succulents. Too little light is the most common issue when growing succulents indoors.
2. Don’t Drench
The second most common problem folks have with succulents is watering – too much of it. Most of the time, water your succulents once every two weeks or so.
To test if succulents need water, just insert a toothpick up the drainage hole of the container. If the toothpick comes out with soil sticking to it, you don’t need to water.
3. Avoid Chills
If you live in a cold-weather area, ensure your succulents don’t get cold. Keep them out of a chilly window. Window sills, particularly drafty ones, may be substantially colder than the surrounding room.
See! It’s easy! With these three tips you’re sure to enjoy success with beautiful low-water indoor succulents.
It’s not really a surprise: Succulents are beautiful and offer gorgeous tones of silver, blue, and purple as well as the more traditional tones of green found in more familiar houseplants.
Ever wonder how to care for them? Here are three easy tips:
1. Shine On
Low-water succulents thrive in lots and lots of light. If you’ve been told to keep your houseplants out of direct sun, forget that rule with succulents. They love the sun, both indoors and out.
Don’t have a sunny spot? Don’t worry! Succulents also do great in artificial light. And you don’t need to have special bulbs; regular florescent or LED bulbs are ideal. In fact, an inexpensive shop light will give succulents good light. Suspend the shop lights 6 inches (15 cm) over your succulents. When it comes to light, more really is better with succulents. Too little light is the most common issue when growing succulents indoors.
2. Don’t Drench
The second most common problem folks have with succulents is watering – too much of it. Most of the time, water your succulents once every two weeks or so.
To test if succulents need water, just insert a toothpick up the drainage hole of the container. If the toothpick comes out with soil sticking to it, you don’t need to water.
3. Avoid Chills
If you live in a cold-weather area, ensure your succulents don’t get cold. Keep them out of a chilly window. Window sills, particularly drafty ones, may be substantially colder than the surrounding room.
See! It’s easy! With these three tips you’re sure to enjoy success with beautiful low-water indoor succulents.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Creating your own succulent garden is a lot of fun and much easier than you might expect. Here’s an easy guide to becoming a green-thumbed succulent expert in the comfort of your own home.
Choose Different Types of Succulents
Succulents come in many varieties of striking shapes and textures to suit every taste and achieve your desired look. These low maintenance water-savers are sturdy enough to experiment using different combinations, so don’t be afraid to choose different types of succulents for your garden. Here are some of our favorite succulents for outdoor gardens:
Rosettes: The evergreen leaves of rosettes form a unique flower-like aesthetic and are a popular choice for groundcover.
Flowering Succulents: There are many types of succulents that contrast their green foliage with beautiful blooms in various colors.
Cacti: The thick trunks of cacti can add some tree-like density to your desert oasis. Be careful to plant this succulent away from areas where the kids may play—the thorns are sharp!
Mix and Match Succulents
Try and mix new combinations to let your inner landscape artist shine. Once you choose your succulents, get out a pen and paper to sketch out your ideas first. Take a look at websites like Pinterest or Houzz for inspiration. You can also place plants next to each other in their planters before you plant in order to see which textures and combinations play nicely off each other. Here are some ideas to get your creative juices flowing:
Try laying rows of ground cover succulents, such as Autumn Joy and rosettes, in your entryway. Plant these amidst garden rocks to create a Zen-like pathway to your front door.
Mix different color blooming succulents in your backyard to experience a kaleidoscope of color come spring.
Use cacti and Agave americana on the outer wall of your garden to act as a gate and give you privacy.
Expert Care
Your succulents need just the right amount of water. Knowing just the right amount of water to give each of your succulents will keep your plants living longer and healthier in the long run. The hardy plants normally need water only once per week. Your plant will show you if it is drinking the right amount, which can vary depending on the time of year and if you live in a humid or dry area.
If you are overwatering, the plants can easily rot and lose their petals.
If you are underwatering, the petals will get that shriveled “prune” look.
Always water your succulents less in winter months when there is less sunlight and more rain.
If you live in a humid area, water your succulents less often.
Succulents like just the right amount of bright filtered light. When planning where to create your succulent garden, make sure the spot has bright filtered light without direct sun for long periods of time. Your succulents will also show you if they need more light or if they are getting a little “sunburned”.
If your garden is getting too much light, the leaves will get white or brown with burned-looking spots. If you see this, move the plant to a spot with less light.
If your garden is getting too little sun, the plants will lose their color and stretch out, as if they are reaching and looking for light. If this happens, pinch the leaves back to their normal height and move them to a spot with more sun.
Choose Different Types of Succulents
Succulents come in many varieties of striking shapes and textures to suit every taste and achieve your desired look. These low maintenance water-savers are sturdy enough to experiment using different combinations, so don’t be afraid to choose different types of succulents for your garden. Here are some of our favorite succulents for outdoor gardens:
Rosettes: The evergreen leaves of rosettes form a unique flower-like aesthetic and are a popular choice for groundcover.
Flowering Succulents: There are many types of succulents that contrast their green foliage with beautiful blooms in various colors.
Cacti: The thick trunks of cacti can add some tree-like density to your desert oasis. Be careful to plant this succulent away from areas where the kids may play—the thorns are sharp!
Mix and Match Succulents
Try and mix new combinations to let your inner landscape artist shine. Once you choose your succulents, get out a pen and paper to sketch out your ideas first. Take a look at websites like Pinterest or Houzz for inspiration. You can also place plants next to each other in their planters before you plant in order to see which textures and combinations play nicely off each other. Here are some ideas to get your creative juices flowing:
Try laying rows of ground cover succulents, such as Autumn Joy and rosettes, in your entryway. Plant these amidst garden rocks to create a Zen-like pathway to your front door.
Mix different color blooming succulents in your backyard to experience a kaleidoscope of color come spring.
Use cacti and Agave americana on the outer wall of your garden to act as a gate and give you privacy.
Expert Care
Your succulents need just the right amount of water. Knowing just the right amount of water to give each of your succulents will keep your plants living longer and healthier in the long run. The hardy plants normally need water only once per week. Your plant will show you if it is drinking the right amount, which can vary depending on the time of year and if you live in a humid or dry area.
If you are overwatering, the plants can easily rot and lose their petals.
If you are underwatering, the petals will get that shriveled “prune” look.
Always water your succulents less in winter months when there is less sunlight and more rain.
If you live in a humid area, water your succulents less often.
Succulents like just the right amount of bright filtered light. When planning where to create your succulent garden, make sure the spot has bright filtered light without direct sun for long periods of time. Your succulents will also show you if they need more light or if they are getting a little “sunburned”.
If your garden is getting too much light, the leaves will get white or brown with burned-looking spots. If you see this, move the plant to a spot with less light.
If your garden is getting too little sun, the plants will lose their color and stretch out, as if they are reaching and looking for light. If this happens, pinch the leaves back to their normal height and move them to a spot with more sun.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents are among the easiest plants to propagate, largely because the plants have a strong sense of self-preservation. The drought tolerant plants root with little encouragement from you, and new plants can be grown from existing ones. You even can ignore the cuttings for weeks and the plants will be fine.
Gardening trends come and go, but the popularity of succulents has been going strong for quite some time. It’s understandable. They require little supplemental water and they endure with benign neglect. They can be grown indoors if you have sufficient light, and can be used as temporary decor, such as for place settings, and then added to your collection.
The plants also can be quite beautiful, and their unique sizes, colors and forms make them a favorite.
General Care
Knowing how much to water your succulents is mostly trial and error. Most die from getting too much water, but if you notice the bottom leaves on the plant starting to shrivel, that’s a sign the plant isn’t getting enough water. Allow soil to dry between waterings.
Some succulents need full sun to develop color, but most appreciate some afternoon shade. If there are wide spaces between leaves, the plant isn’t getting enough light. Burns on the leaves may indicate it is getting too much sun.
Many succulents are frost tender. During the winter, you can bring them indoors or place them beneath a tree or close to the house to help protect them. Covering them with protective cloth or placing old-fashioned Christmas lights around them can help them survive freezing temperatures.
Succulents grow well in pots, but they’ll do even better in the ground if you have the right soil. They need soil that drains well, and that’s not most of our clay soils. You can amend your soil to make it more friable by adding sand and compost. Create your own soil for pots by combining perlite and sand with standard potting soil.
All plants need fertilizer, especially those in pots, but they will survive without it. They may not be as robust, but they will survive.
If you’re worried about certain plants being lost in the winter frost, take cuttings from the plant in the fall and grow them plants indoor until spring. You may lose your outdoor plant, but you’ll have something to replace it.
Propagation
Most succulents can be propagated through cuttings or leaves.
For cuttings, simply snip off a piece of the plant and set it aside in a shady place. Let it rest for a couple of days to harden off, allowing the freshly cut end to callous over. Then pop it in a pot or the ground and water. Cuttings can be left for a couple of weeks before planting.
To grow from leaves, remove the entire leaf and set aside in a shady spot. In about three weeks, roots will form on the leaf and a new plant will develop at the base.
Succulents can be rooted in water, but most will rot rather than develop roots. As they are so easy to root out of water, there’s not anything to be gained.
Gardening trends come and go, but the popularity of succulents has been going strong for quite some time. It’s understandable. They require little supplemental water and they endure with benign neglect. They can be grown indoors if you have sufficient light, and can be used as temporary decor, such as for place settings, and then added to your collection.
The plants also can be quite beautiful, and their unique sizes, colors and forms make them a favorite.
General Care
Knowing how much to water your succulents is mostly trial and error. Most die from getting too much water, but if you notice the bottom leaves on the plant starting to shrivel, that’s a sign the plant isn’t getting enough water. Allow soil to dry between waterings.
Some succulents need full sun to develop color, but most appreciate some afternoon shade. If there are wide spaces between leaves, the plant isn’t getting enough light. Burns on the leaves may indicate it is getting too much sun.
Many succulents are frost tender. During the winter, you can bring them indoors or place them beneath a tree or close to the house to help protect them. Covering them with protective cloth or placing old-fashioned Christmas lights around them can help them survive freezing temperatures.
Succulents grow well in pots, but they’ll do even better in the ground if you have the right soil. They need soil that drains well, and that’s not most of our clay soils. You can amend your soil to make it more friable by adding sand and compost. Create your own soil for pots by combining perlite and sand with standard potting soil.
All plants need fertilizer, especially those in pots, but they will survive without it. They may not be as robust, but they will survive.
If you’re worried about certain plants being lost in the winter frost, take cuttings from the plant in the fall and grow them plants indoor until spring. You may lose your outdoor plant, but you’ll have something to replace it.
Propagation
Most succulents can be propagated through cuttings or leaves.
For cuttings, simply snip off a piece of the plant and set it aside in a shady place. Let it rest for a couple of days to harden off, allowing the freshly cut end to callous over. Then pop it in a pot or the ground and water. Cuttings can be left for a couple of weeks before planting.
To grow from leaves, remove the entire leaf and set aside in a shady spot. In about three weeks, roots will form on the leaf and a new plant will develop at the base.
Succulents can be rooted in water, but most will rot rather than develop roots. As they are so easy to root out of water, there’s not anything to be gained.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Some gardeners find tropical plants intimidating. Succulents in particular tend to have unusual requirements, and gardeners sometimes worry about the plants harming pets if eaten. The Agave attenuata is a tropical plant that is actually quite easy to care for in a backyard garden. Once homeowners discover how easy it is to properly care for the Agave attenuata, the plant becomes even more appealing, whether positioned in a lawn plot or placed in a container on the patio.
Agave attenuata is one of several species of Agave that are native to Mexico. The plant is commonly known as a Fox Tail Agave. Swan’s Neck or Dragon Tree Agave, and grows to a height of approximately 3.3 to 5 feet (1 to 1.5 m). It is a succulent, so its leaves are rubbery and puff up when the plant has plenty of water. The leaves vary in color from soft green to bright blue green or even yellow and green striped. Unlike some other Agave plants, the Fox Tail Agave does not have dangerous spines on its leaves.
Fox Tail Agave is a particularly showy plant, even without blooms. It grows in a rosette shape that packs a lot of visual interest. It looks great in modern gardens, desert gardens, and around tropical plants. Since it does not have prickly spines, the plant poses little threat to animals and small children.
Planting
Gardeners can plant Fox Tail Agave directly in the ground or in a container. Pots and planters are easy to move around gardens that have changing light conditions. When planting the Agave in the ground, homeowners should choose an area that gets plenty of sunlight.
Gardeners should make a hole about the same depth as the container the Fox Tail Agave originally came in. This keeps from shocking the plant. Once it is in the ground, gardeners should pat fill dirt lightly around the plant and water it well. The same rules apply for containers or ground plots.
Watering
Fox Tail Agave is a sturdy plant that tolerates both under and overwatering well. For optimal growth, Fox Tail Agave needs a thorough watering once a week during warm weather, particularly if it receives full sunlight. A thorough dousing every other week or so via a watering can is fine for plants in partial sun or during cooler weather. Indoor Agave plants may need less frequent watering, depending on the humidity levels indoors.
Temperatures
A desert plant, Fox Tail Agave thrives in high temperatures, and it grows well at room temperature. It can even tolerate temperatures as low as 28 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 degrees Celsius), although it does not thrive when temperatures are that low for long periods of time. If the plant is in a container, home gardeners should move the plant inside during extended periods of cold.
Fertilising
During times of growth, Fox Tail Agave can withstand a small amount of balanced liquid fertilizer, but most of the time the plant does not need additional fertilizing. After several years, the soil becomes depleted of nutrients, and gardeners should refresh it. This is particularly important for potted Fox Tail Agave.
When swapping soil, gardeners should check the plant’s root ball to make sure the roots are not bound. If the plant has not received fertilizer recently, the gardener can add a small amount when repotting the plant. Otherwise, no additional fertilizer is necessary for the plant to thrive.
Propagating
Older Fox Tail Agave start to send out suckers from the bottom of the plant. This is how the Fox Tail Agave propagates itself. When these start appearing, gardeners should remove them from the plant and let them dry thoroughly before planting them in another location, such as a clay pot on a windowsill or in the garden itself. Fox Tail Agaves tend to grow suckers during spring and summer. Those who are not interested in planting suckers to create additional Agave plants can either leave the suckers in place or compost them.
Agave attenuata is one of several species of Agave that are native to Mexico. The plant is commonly known as a Fox Tail Agave. Swan’s Neck or Dragon Tree Agave, and grows to a height of approximately 3.3 to 5 feet (1 to 1.5 m). It is a succulent, so its leaves are rubbery and puff up when the plant has plenty of water. The leaves vary in color from soft green to bright blue green or even yellow and green striped. Unlike some other Agave plants, the Fox Tail Agave does not have dangerous spines on its leaves.
Fox Tail Agave is a particularly showy plant, even without blooms. It grows in a rosette shape that packs a lot of visual interest. It looks great in modern gardens, desert gardens, and around tropical plants. Since it does not have prickly spines, the plant poses little threat to animals and small children.
Planting
Gardeners can plant Fox Tail Agave directly in the ground or in a container. Pots and planters are easy to move around gardens that have changing light conditions. When planting the Agave in the ground, homeowners should choose an area that gets plenty of sunlight.
Gardeners should make a hole about the same depth as the container the Fox Tail Agave originally came in. This keeps from shocking the plant. Once it is in the ground, gardeners should pat fill dirt lightly around the plant and water it well. The same rules apply for containers or ground plots.
Watering
Fox Tail Agave is a sturdy plant that tolerates both under and overwatering well. For optimal growth, Fox Tail Agave needs a thorough watering once a week during warm weather, particularly if it receives full sunlight. A thorough dousing every other week or so via a watering can is fine for plants in partial sun or during cooler weather. Indoor Agave plants may need less frequent watering, depending on the humidity levels indoors.
Temperatures
A desert plant, Fox Tail Agave thrives in high temperatures, and it grows well at room temperature. It can even tolerate temperatures as low as 28 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 degrees Celsius), although it does not thrive when temperatures are that low for long periods of time. If the plant is in a container, home gardeners should move the plant inside during extended periods of cold.
Fertilising
During times of growth, Fox Tail Agave can withstand a small amount of balanced liquid fertilizer, but most of the time the plant does not need additional fertilizing. After several years, the soil becomes depleted of nutrients, and gardeners should refresh it. This is particularly important for potted Fox Tail Agave.
When swapping soil, gardeners should check the plant’s root ball to make sure the roots are not bound. If the plant has not received fertilizer recently, the gardener can add a small amount when repotting the plant. Otherwise, no additional fertilizer is necessary for the plant to thrive.
Propagating
Older Fox Tail Agave start to send out suckers from the bottom of the plant. This is how the Fox Tail Agave propagates itself. When these start appearing, gardeners should remove them from the plant and let them dry thoroughly before planting them in another location, such as a clay pot on a windowsill or in the garden itself. Fox Tail Agaves tend to grow suckers during spring and summer. Those who are not interested in planting suckers to create additional Agave plants can either leave the suckers in place or compost them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents are undoubtedly growing in popularity. They come in dozens of varieties, boasting different colors and shapes that can be mixed and matched to create a centerpiece or other decorations in the home. If you’re new to gardening or have had bad luck with houseplants in the past, try your hand at caring for succulents indoors.
Succulents are grown outdoors but are brought indoors during the winter months. It’s possible to grow succulents indoors year-round, though. You may be familiar with some types of succulents, like Aloe vera, Jade Plant and Snake Plant.
Environment
While succulents can also be placed outdoors during the growing season, keep them indoors in a bright, sunny location, like a south-facing or west-facing window.
Most succulents thrive if the relative humidity of the house is between 10 and 30 percent. Keep succulents away from drafty locations.
Light
Rely on natural lighting if possible when growing succulents indoors.
You can use artificial lighting, like a cool white fluorescent tube, in place of natural light if necessary, or in combination with natural light. If you’re using cool white fluorescent tubes, keep them 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) above succulents, and keep them on for 12 to 16 hours each day.
Soil
Plant succulents in well-draining, sandy soil. Cornell Cooperative Extension suggests planting succulents in two parts garden soil, two parts sharp builders soil and one part peat. Or, you can use a combination of one part potting soil and one part coarse sand, as recommended by Minnesota State University Extension. Soil that doesn’t drain well may contribute to root and stem rot.
Consider planting succulents in porous containers with drainage holes, like unglazed terracotta or clay pots.
Watering
Succulents don’t require as much water as some other houseplants.
Water sparingly. Allow the soil to dry out completely before watering succulents. Allow water to drain out, then discard the excess water. If you water succulents too much, the stems and roots may rot and the leaves will drop. Succulent leaves will wilt if you haven’t watered enough.
Avoid watering in frequent, small amounts. This can affect growth by making plants sickly and by causing roots to become weak and shallow. Also, be careful not to water too much during winter, which is the dormant period for succulents.
Fertilizer
Succulents can be fertilized with houseplant food that’s diluted to half its recommended rate. The houseplant food should be higher in phosphorus than nitrogen.
During the growing season, fertilize succulents once or twice a month.
Pest Control
Sometimes, succulents can become affected by mealybugs, scales and spider mites. To control mealybugs and scales, soak cotton swabs in rubbing alcohol and dab the plant. To control spider mites, spray succulents with insecticidal soaps.
Succulents are grown outdoors but are brought indoors during the winter months. It’s possible to grow succulents indoors year-round, though. You may be familiar with some types of succulents, like Aloe vera, Jade Plant and Snake Plant.
Environment
While succulents can also be placed outdoors during the growing season, keep them indoors in a bright, sunny location, like a south-facing or west-facing window.
Most succulents thrive if the relative humidity of the house is between 10 and 30 percent. Keep succulents away from drafty locations.
Light
Rely on natural lighting if possible when growing succulents indoors.
You can use artificial lighting, like a cool white fluorescent tube, in place of natural light if necessary, or in combination with natural light. If you’re using cool white fluorescent tubes, keep them 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) above succulents, and keep them on for 12 to 16 hours each day.
Soil
Plant succulents in well-draining, sandy soil. Cornell Cooperative Extension suggests planting succulents in two parts garden soil, two parts sharp builders soil and one part peat. Or, you can use a combination of one part potting soil and one part coarse sand, as recommended by Minnesota State University Extension. Soil that doesn’t drain well may contribute to root and stem rot.
Consider planting succulents in porous containers with drainage holes, like unglazed terracotta or clay pots.
Watering
Succulents don’t require as much water as some other houseplants.
Water sparingly. Allow the soil to dry out completely before watering succulents. Allow water to drain out, then discard the excess water. If you water succulents too much, the stems and roots may rot and the leaves will drop. Succulent leaves will wilt if you haven’t watered enough.
Avoid watering in frequent, small amounts. This can affect growth by making plants sickly and by causing roots to become weak and shallow. Also, be careful not to water too much during winter, which is the dormant period for succulents.
Fertilizer
Succulents can be fertilized with houseplant food that’s diluted to half its recommended rate. The houseplant food should be higher in phosphorus than nitrogen.
During the growing season, fertilize succulents once or twice a month.
Pest Control
Sometimes, succulents can become affected by mealybugs, scales and spider mites. To control mealybugs and scales, soak cotton swabs in rubbing alcohol and dab the plant. To control spider mites, spray succulents with insecticidal soaps.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents have different needs than most other plants. Here are the most common mistakes when growing succulents and how to avoid them.
Overwatering
The biggest mistake people make with succulents is overwatering them. Waterlogged roots rot, the stem becomes squishy, and leaves fall off. On the surface, your succulent may look okay, until one day you find that your lower leaves have gone slimy and black. If any of your leaves look yellow, translucent, or slimy, you may be overwatering. Succulent roots are very sensitive, and are super susceptible to root rot, so be careful with your watering habits! Most succulents only need to be watered once every 1-2 weeks. When they’re actively growing—which for most kinds is spring and summer—drench the soil once a week. When they’re dormant—usually in fall and winter—do so once a month. It’s best to let their soil dry out completely before watering again!
Using the Wrong Container
Succulents need well draining soil! They also need well-draining containers! Containers with no drainage holes typically retain far too much water for succulents (and are also susceptible to overheating which brews bacteria), and your plants are far less likely to do well in these. So, while you may love the idea of repurposing that galvanized steel bucket as a planter, be sure to drill holes in the bottom first (or be prepared to deal with many potential issues!) You’d be best with wood, terra cotta, or hypertufa containers that can easily breathe.
Using the Wrong Soil
The first thing you need to know is that succulent roots do not get water from direct contact. Rather, they absorb the water molecules in the air. This is why having a succulent sitting in sopping wet soil is so problematic and makes the plant rot– your roots don’t suck water up as readily, and your soil can stay wet for much longer! This could lead to a whole host of problems, from plant gnats, to mold. Succulents typically don’t do well in conventional garden soil, unless you’re very rarely water. You’ll want a well draining soil. You can buy a succulent mix at a garden center, but you can always mix your own as well!
Trying to Squeeze Too Many in One Space
Succulent arrangements are gorgeous, but they’re really best as temporary decoration! While succulents can take some “squeezing” better than most plants, at a certain point, close becomes too close, and they reach a size threshold in which they can no longer compete for nutrients! If you have a jam packed succulent arrangement, and you find that some plants are withering or dying away, it maybe time for some separation.
Keeping Them in a Windowless Room
When succulents are indoors it’s often hard for them to get enough sunlight. They generally need about 6 hours a day. This can be hard to achieve from a cubicle or bathroom, so if you want to have a succulent in these locations, its best to use other methods of getting your plants enough light, such as putting them outside or in a bright window for the weekend, or investing in grow lights! Remember, these are naturally desert plants, and deal with some of the sunniest and driest environments on the planet.
Fertilizing Improperly
A common succulent faux-pas is the idea that they don’t need fertilizer! Like any other plant, they need a variety of macro and micro-nutrients to survive. While they get along just fine without it, sometimes a bit of fertilizer can be the key to having lush and green plants.
Overwatering
The biggest mistake people make with succulents is overwatering them. Waterlogged roots rot, the stem becomes squishy, and leaves fall off. On the surface, your succulent may look okay, until one day you find that your lower leaves have gone slimy and black. If any of your leaves look yellow, translucent, or slimy, you may be overwatering. Succulent roots are very sensitive, and are super susceptible to root rot, so be careful with your watering habits! Most succulents only need to be watered once every 1-2 weeks. When they’re actively growing—which for most kinds is spring and summer—drench the soil once a week. When they’re dormant—usually in fall and winter—do so once a month. It’s best to let their soil dry out completely before watering again!
Using the Wrong Container
Succulents need well draining soil! They also need well-draining containers! Containers with no drainage holes typically retain far too much water for succulents (and are also susceptible to overheating which brews bacteria), and your plants are far less likely to do well in these. So, while you may love the idea of repurposing that galvanized steel bucket as a planter, be sure to drill holes in the bottom first (or be prepared to deal with many potential issues!) You’d be best with wood, terra cotta, or hypertufa containers that can easily breathe.
Using the Wrong Soil
The first thing you need to know is that succulent roots do not get water from direct contact. Rather, they absorb the water molecules in the air. This is why having a succulent sitting in sopping wet soil is so problematic and makes the plant rot– your roots don’t suck water up as readily, and your soil can stay wet for much longer! This could lead to a whole host of problems, from plant gnats, to mold. Succulents typically don’t do well in conventional garden soil, unless you’re very rarely water. You’ll want a well draining soil. You can buy a succulent mix at a garden center, but you can always mix your own as well!
Trying to Squeeze Too Many in One Space
Succulent arrangements are gorgeous, but they’re really best as temporary decoration! While succulents can take some “squeezing” better than most plants, at a certain point, close becomes too close, and they reach a size threshold in which they can no longer compete for nutrients! If you have a jam packed succulent arrangement, and you find that some plants are withering or dying away, it maybe time for some separation.
Keeping Them in a Windowless Room
When succulents are indoors it’s often hard for them to get enough sunlight. They generally need about 6 hours a day. This can be hard to achieve from a cubicle or bathroom, so if you want to have a succulent in these locations, its best to use other methods of getting your plants enough light, such as putting them outside or in a bright window for the weekend, or investing in grow lights! Remember, these are naturally desert plants, and deal with some of the sunniest and driest environments on the planet.
Fertilizing Improperly
A common succulent faux-pas is the idea that they don’t need fertilizer! Like any other plant, they need a variety of macro and micro-nutrients to survive. While they get along just fine without it, sometimes a bit of fertilizer can be the key to having lush and green plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulent plants are grown primarily for the structure of their water-storing stems, leaves or roots, which give lasting interest. Flowers are a wonderful bonus, but often succulents are shy to bloom, especially if they are indoor container plants. Find out what conditions prevail in the plants’ natural habitat to get clues about what growth conditions and seasonal cycles they need. Supplying winter cold, summer heat, fertilizer or more intense light may be all that’s needed for successful flowering.
Temperature
Many succulents need higher temperatures in summer to set their blooming chemistry. Climate-controlled homes don’t provide the needed temperature extremes. Succulents benefit from being moved outdoors for the summer months, but the move should be gradual, exposing them to more heat and sunlight over a couple of weeks, until they are in partial sun and warm temperatures. Plants from cold-winter deserts, like interior western American deserts and high-altitude South American deserts, need winter dormancy and cold temperatures to induce spring blooms. Put such plants in cool areas for the winter months.
Fertilizer
Producing a flower is important to a plant, because seeds are needed to perpetuate the species, so they will flower if possible. However, they need plant food to provide the building blocks for flower formation. In deserts, the soil actually provides good nutrition because there’s not a lot of rain to leach plant nutrients out of the soil. Under cultivation, fertilize succulents beginning in spring as the plant begins growth. Use half-strength fertilizer once a month while the plant is growing, discontinuing feeding in late summer or early fall. Use a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, such as 10-15-10, to promote flower formation.
Water
Succulents need water to form flower buds and produce new growth. If they don’t get it, they deplete the stores of water in their tissues that they need to survive drought — they live, but do not thrive. During growth periods, water plants thoroughly until water comes out the pot’s drainage holes, but don’t water again until the top inch of soil is dry. Most succulents undergo dormancy for part of the year, usually in either winter for cacti or summer for plants like Living Stones (Lithops), and this rest period is needed to set the stage for flowering. Keep the plant drier during dormancy. All succulents need very well-draining potting mix.
Light
Arid-land plants, even if they’re growing under a bush in nature, receive a lot of direct and indirect light that can be difficult to duplicate indoors. An eastern or southern window is a good choice for most cacti. Most succulents need sunlight for half the day, preferably morning, to produce the food needed for blooming. If growth is open and lax on leaf or stem succulents that should be compact, there’s not enough light for flowering. If globular cacti are stretching for the light, they won’t flower. There are only a few kinds of succulents — such as Gasterias, Haworthias and some Aloes — that will bloom if kept in full shade. If sufficient natural light is lacking, grow succulents under grow lights.
Photoperiod
Related to light conditions are the number of hours in the day and night as the seasons change. Photo periodicity is important in setting the biological clocks of all organisms, from humans to plants. Some succulents, like the Holiday Cacti (Schlumbergera cultivars) need long-night, short-day conditions plus cool temperatures to initiate flower buds. For many other succulents, it is the increasing day length plus warming spring temperatures that signals buds to grow. Receiving supplemental light that artificially lengthens or shortens the nights can interfere with flowering.
Temperature
Many succulents need higher temperatures in summer to set their blooming chemistry. Climate-controlled homes don’t provide the needed temperature extremes. Succulents benefit from being moved outdoors for the summer months, but the move should be gradual, exposing them to more heat and sunlight over a couple of weeks, until they are in partial sun and warm temperatures. Plants from cold-winter deserts, like interior western American deserts and high-altitude South American deserts, need winter dormancy and cold temperatures to induce spring blooms. Put such plants in cool areas for the winter months.
Fertilizer
Producing a flower is important to a plant, because seeds are needed to perpetuate the species, so they will flower if possible. However, they need plant food to provide the building blocks for flower formation. In deserts, the soil actually provides good nutrition because there’s not a lot of rain to leach plant nutrients out of the soil. Under cultivation, fertilize succulents beginning in spring as the plant begins growth. Use half-strength fertilizer once a month while the plant is growing, discontinuing feeding in late summer or early fall. Use a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, such as 10-15-10, to promote flower formation.
Water
Succulents need water to form flower buds and produce new growth. If they don’t get it, they deplete the stores of water in their tissues that they need to survive drought — they live, but do not thrive. During growth periods, water plants thoroughly until water comes out the pot’s drainage holes, but don’t water again until the top inch of soil is dry. Most succulents undergo dormancy for part of the year, usually in either winter for cacti or summer for plants like Living Stones (Lithops), and this rest period is needed to set the stage for flowering. Keep the plant drier during dormancy. All succulents need very well-draining potting mix.
Light
Arid-land plants, even if they’re growing under a bush in nature, receive a lot of direct and indirect light that can be difficult to duplicate indoors. An eastern or southern window is a good choice for most cacti. Most succulents need sunlight for half the day, preferably morning, to produce the food needed for blooming. If growth is open and lax on leaf or stem succulents that should be compact, there’s not enough light for flowering. If globular cacti are stretching for the light, they won’t flower. There are only a few kinds of succulents — such as Gasterias, Haworthias and some Aloes — that will bloom if kept in full shade. If sufficient natural light is lacking, grow succulents under grow lights.
Photoperiod
Related to light conditions are the number of hours in the day and night as the seasons change. Photo periodicity is important in setting the biological clocks of all organisms, from humans to plants. Some succulents, like the Holiday Cacti (Schlumbergera cultivars) need long-night, short-day conditions plus cool temperatures to initiate flower buds. For many other succulents, it is the increasing day length plus warming spring temperatures that signals buds to grow. Receiving supplemental light that artificially lengthens or shortens the nights can interfere with flowering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
In general, all succulents do best in sun at least part of the day sun; many will get leggy and weak and refuse to flower without at least six hours; some actually get more colorful and flower better in eight or more hours of direct sun.
However, some will fade, spot, or even scorch in the intense heat of full sun, especially in humid climates and when temperatures remain above 90°F (32°C) or so; these need to be shaded from mid-day and afternoon sun by buildings, lattice, arbors, shade cloth, or trees with light, fine-textured foliage.
Succulents are able to survive dry conditions for a long time, and usually go dormant in the winter. But in the growing season they will grow and flower better with regular watering; most, especially those grown in containers, will need watering at least every couple of weeks in very hot seasons.
Still, too much water is worse than too little, with those grown in shade needing even less. This makes container-grown succulents even better for growing under dry porches or indoor windowsills.
Garden soils and potting soils for containers should hold moisture but allow excess water to drain quickly; even ready-made cactus mixes usually need a little help. Till in a little compost and coarse sand to native garden dirt, at least 6 or 8 inches (15 or 20 cm) deep. And to both it and container potting soils add extra drainage material such as pumice, grit, or expanded clay soil amendments, which look like kitty litter and are used by professional turf managers to loosen soils.
Fertilize succulents in the spring or during flowering with a good low-nitrogen plant food, used at just half strength, and none at all in the winter.
Good Succulents for Shade
Some of the most beloved succulents which tolerate lower light outdoors and bright but indirect light indoors include Aloe vera, Jade Plant (Crassula ovata), Devil’s Backbone (Euphorbia tithymaloides), the many different kinds of Sansevieria, and Florist Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana).
Good vine-like or cascading succulents for shade include Wax Plant (Hoya), Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum), Mistletoe Cactus (Rhipsalis), String of Pearls (Curio rowleyanus), String of Hearts or Rosary Vine (Ceropegia woodii), Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera), Easter Cactus (Hatiora gaertneri), and Night Blooming Cereus (Epiphyllum).
For a better overall plant scene in shaded areas, be sure to accent these with other shade-loving but low-maintenance plants with dependable flowers or brighter or variegated foliage or flowers.
However, some will fade, spot, or even scorch in the intense heat of full sun, especially in humid climates and when temperatures remain above 90°F (32°C) or so; these need to be shaded from mid-day and afternoon sun by buildings, lattice, arbors, shade cloth, or trees with light, fine-textured foliage.
Succulents are able to survive dry conditions for a long time, and usually go dormant in the winter. But in the growing season they will grow and flower better with regular watering; most, especially those grown in containers, will need watering at least every couple of weeks in very hot seasons.
Still, too much water is worse than too little, with those grown in shade needing even less. This makes container-grown succulents even better for growing under dry porches or indoor windowsills.
Garden soils and potting soils for containers should hold moisture but allow excess water to drain quickly; even ready-made cactus mixes usually need a little help. Till in a little compost and coarse sand to native garden dirt, at least 6 or 8 inches (15 or 20 cm) deep. And to both it and container potting soils add extra drainage material such as pumice, grit, or expanded clay soil amendments, which look like kitty litter and are used by professional turf managers to loosen soils.
Fertilize succulents in the spring or during flowering with a good low-nitrogen plant food, used at just half strength, and none at all in the winter.
Good Succulents for Shade
Some of the most beloved succulents which tolerate lower light outdoors and bright but indirect light indoors include Aloe vera, Jade Plant (Crassula ovata), Devil’s Backbone (Euphorbia tithymaloides), the many different kinds of Sansevieria, and Florist Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana).
Good vine-like or cascading succulents for shade include Wax Plant (Hoya), Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum), Mistletoe Cactus (Rhipsalis), String of Pearls (Curio rowleyanus), String of Hearts or Rosary Vine (Ceropegia woodii), Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera), Easter Cactus (Hatiora gaertneri), and Night Blooming Cereus (Epiphyllum).
For a better overall plant scene in shaded areas, be sure to accent these with other shade-loving but low-maintenance plants with dependable flowers or brighter or variegated foliage or flowers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Gardeners with shaded landscapes can still enjoy the exotic shapes and colors of succulents – to a point. Though most succulents prefer very bright light, even several or more hours of direct sun, some will burn quite easily if exposed to hot sun all day, especially when temperatures stay above the lower 90°F (32°C). Yet where light is too intense to grow them out in full sun, quite a few have been grown for many years indoors, on covered patios, under porch roofs, and beneath trees.
Succulents are unique but commonly-grown plants which usually have fleshy leaves or plump stems or roots for storing water in dry seasons of their native lands. They come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, foliage colors, flowers, and often have unique frills and bristles.
Because many are very easy to propagate and share with other gardeners, and tolerate the typically low light and low humidity of indoors, lot of old “passalong” plants have proven themselves as low light succulents. Who hasn’t seen an old Mother-in-Law Tongue, Christmas Cactus, Night Blooming Cereus, Pencil Plant, or Jade Bush that was part of a gift basket plant combo, that outlived the original pot, set on a kitchen windowsill?
There are several which do better in light shade during hot summers, including the Fairy Crassula (Crassula multicava) in mild-winter areas, and the more cold-tolerant Stonecrops (Sedum). Others are best grown as container plants set in shade and moved as needed for protection from winter cold or excess rainfall.
Succulents are unique but commonly-grown plants which usually have fleshy leaves or plump stems or roots for storing water in dry seasons of their native lands. They come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, foliage colors, flowers, and often have unique frills and bristles.
Because many are very easy to propagate and share with other gardeners, and tolerate the typically low light and low humidity of indoors, lot of old “passalong” plants have proven themselves as low light succulents. Who hasn’t seen an old Mother-in-Law Tongue, Christmas Cactus, Night Blooming Cereus, Pencil Plant, or Jade Bush that was part of a gift basket plant combo, that outlived the original pot, set on a kitchen windowsill?
There are several which do better in light shade during hot summers, including the Fairy Crassula (Crassula multicava) in mild-winter areas, and the more cold-tolerant Stonecrops (Sedum). Others are best grown as container plants set in shade and moved as needed for protection from winter cold or excess rainfall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti and succulents are relatively pest-free plants, but, like any others, they occasionally fall prey to typical greenhouse pests like mealybug, scale, mites and white fly. Don’t worry. Plants and pests go hand-in-hand. You’ll constantly be bringing pests home with new plants and no matter what you do, you’ll NEVER be completely free of them. The goal is control. Thankfully there are some simple, relatively toxin-free ways to help deal with the little nasties.
Mealybug
Probably the most common pest of cacti and succulents is the mealybug. There are several kinds of mealybug but the greenhouse, citrus, and occasionally long-tailed versions are the ones you’ll encounter most often. They look like tiny, white sow-bugs and have the annoying habit of finding the most out-of-the-way spots on your plants. White, cottony masses are signs that they’re reproducing…these are the “nests” that their little crawlers (nearly invisible) call home.
These buggers literally sap the strength of an infested plant and, with time and exploding numbers, can cause visible (though not usually fatal) decline.
Thankfully they are among the easiest of pests to control. Lug your plant to the nearest sink or hose and give the plant a good, strong shower. Mealys can be blasted off their hosts with a forceful stream of water. Another painless way to clean a plant up is with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). Simply wipe off any that you see and then rinse the plant with clear water before returning to its spot. A couple of drops of dishwashing liquid to a quart of water is another weapon in the arsenal. The soap acts as a wetter, breaking down the waxy outer coating of many soft bodied insects, including mealybugs. Biological controls like predatory ladybugs and lacewings are also effective, but take some time to get their game on.
See signs of decline in your succulents for no apparent reason? Dump them out of their pots and check the roots. There is a mealy that makes its home underground and feeds on the roots of our plants. They are the worst as they are often not noticed until the plant has suffered. Off to the sink it went and got a thorough spraying until no insects or evidence of them was left.
Mites
I hate mites. First, you don’t usually notice them until they’ve disfigured your plant. Second, they are attracted to….warmth and dry conditions–the same environment enjoyed by cacti and succulents. Third, they are tougher to control than some of the other pests. Plants that are otherwise stressed are particularly susceptible.
Mites are not really insects, but they are sucking monsters. On other plants it’s common to find fine webbing…but not always on cacti and succulents. More commonly you’ll notice brown, corky patches beginning to show up on formerly healthy plants.
Start your control by keeping a close eye on your plants. Scout for trouble. Keep them healthy and properly watered. Step two: bump your humidity up a bit and mist the plants once in a while (most will experience fog in their native haunts–it won’t harm them). If you suspect an infestation of spider mites, use the “spray them off” technique discussed under mealybug.
It only seems fair that another of their ilk, a predatory mite, is one of the biological controls. It’s a perverse little twist of Mother Nature’s—and I like it!
Scale
After mealybug, scale is probably the most commonly encountered pest of cacti and succulents. These insects are like little armored tanks that clamp themselves to a leaf’s surface and do their damage while hidden underneath a relatively impervious shell.
Not as easy to spray off, I usually use the rubbing-alcohol treatment to remove them by hand. A cotton swab or a small, stiff paintbrush will do the trick. They are very difficult to get a good handle on and it’s always best to spot an infestation early. There are predator insects available but they are most effective if you can identify the species of scale that you’re dealing with.
White Fly
White fly round out the list of important pests to be on the guard against. They are, as their name implies, small white flies. While not common on most succulents, they seem to have a taste for Euphorbias, particularly the ones that have soft leaves. (I find this unusual since Euphorbias are characterized by their poisonous sap–the white flies don’t seem to mind).
Parasitic wasps are the most enjoyable way to control these pests. This winter it took them only a few weeks to knock down a population of white fly that was threatening to get out of hand. Insecticidal soap sprays can be effective
People have been known to shake their plants and vacuum the insects out of the air. As a short term help to remove adults if may have some benefit, but I suspect that it does more for the psyche of the grower than it does for the plants!
Mealybug
Probably the most common pest of cacti and succulents is the mealybug. There are several kinds of mealybug but the greenhouse, citrus, and occasionally long-tailed versions are the ones you’ll encounter most often. They look like tiny, white sow-bugs and have the annoying habit of finding the most out-of-the-way spots on your plants. White, cottony masses are signs that they’re reproducing…these are the “nests” that their little crawlers (nearly invisible) call home.
These buggers literally sap the strength of an infested plant and, with time and exploding numbers, can cause visible (though not usually fatal) decline.
Thankfully they are among the easiest of pests to control. Lug your plant to the nearest sink or hose and give the plant a good, strong shower. Mealys can be blasted off their hosts with a forceful stream of water. Another painless way to clean a plant up is with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). Simply wipe off any that you see and then rinse the plant with clear water before returning to its spot. A couple of drops of dishwashing liquid to a quart of water is another weapon in the arsenal. The soap acts as a wetter, breaking down the waxy outer coating of many soft bodied insects, including mealybugs. Biological controls like predatory ladybugs and lacewings are also effective, but take some time to get their game on.
See signs of decline in your succulents for no apparent reason? Dump them out of their pots and check the roots. There is a mealy that makes its home underground and feeds on the roots of our plants. They are the worst as they are often not noticed until the plant has suffered. Off to the sink it went and got a thorough spraying until no insects or evidence of them was left.
Mites
I hate mites. First, you don’t usually notice them until they’ve disfigured your plant. Second, they are attracted to….warmth and dry conditions–the same environment enjoyed by cacti and succulents. Third, they are tougher to control than some of the other pests. Plants that are otherwise stressed are particularly susceptible.
Mites are not really insects, but they are sucking monsters. On other plants it’s common to find fine webbing…but not always on cacti and succulents. More commonly you’ll notice brown, corky patches beginning to show up on formerly healthy plants.
Start your control by keeping a close eye on your plants. Scout for trouble. Keep them healthy and properly watered. Step two: bump your humidity up a bit and mist the plants once in a while (most will experience fog in their native haunts–it won’t harm them). If you suspect an infestation of spider mites, use the “spray them off” technique discussed under mealybug.
It only seems fair that another of their ilk, a predatory mite, is one of the biological controls. It’s a perverse little twist of Mother Nature’s—and I like it!
Scale
After mealybug, scale is probably the most commonly encountered pest of cacti and succulents. These insects are like little armored tanks that clamp themselves to a leaf’s surface and do their damage while hidden underneath a relatively impervious shell.
Not as easy to spray off, I usually use the rubbing-alcohol treatment to remove them by hand. A cotton swab or a small, stiff paintbrush will do the trick. They are very difficult to get a good handle on and it’s always best to spot an infestation early. There are predator insects available but they are most effective if you can identify the species of scale that you’re dealing with.
White Fly
White fly round out the list of important pests to be on the guard against. They are, as their name implies, small white flies. While not common on most succulents, they seem to have a taste for Euphorbias, particularly the ones that have soft leaves. (I find this unusual since Euphorbias are characterized by their poisonous sap–the white flies don’t seem to mind).
Parasitic wasps are the most enjoyable way to control these pests. This winter it took them only a few weeks to knock down a population of white fly that was threatening to get out of hand. Insecticidal soap sprays can be effective
People have been known to shake their plants and vacuum the insects out of the air. As a short term help to remove adults if may have some benefit, but I suspect that it does more for the psyche of the grower than it does for the plants!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents, which include the fleshy-leaved plants we often associate with that name, as well as cacti, respond to many environmental stressors by stopping growing and dropping leaves, reducing their energy needs. Heat, frost, low or high light, improper watering and chemical shock can all cause leaf drop, often quite suddenly.
Temperature Trouble
Because most succulents are adapted to hot, arid areas where prolonged periods of heat are the norm, they respond by dropping leaves when stressed by heat or drought. Although this is relatively normal, keeping succulents in the shade when temperatures soar will help prevent this. Watch them closely: if they look wilted or sunburned, move them or place a shade cloth over them. The opposite problem also occurs: succulents do not do well with freezes, which may blacken and burn their leaves. Sometimes these will fall off, but usually not until the plant grows new leaves to replace them, so resist the urge to peel off these protective dead leaves. The Stonecrop (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’) for example, grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, and will tolerate a wide range of temperatures but may still drop leaves when stressed.
Low Light
Succulents need enough light, especially as they are typically adapted to areas with lots of sun year-round. They do best in brightly lit areas, and when lacking light, will turn light green or yellow and straggly, trying to grow toward the light. If the problem is not corrected, they will eventually drop leaves or die. Low light is not the only problem — succulents that are moved to a new area without acclimation, or suddenly rotated in a bright spot, may get a sunburn on the side that hasn’t seen sun for a while. Make changes slowly, and wait for plants to adapt before moving on.
Chemical Burns
Shocking the system of a succulent can also cause leaf drop. When succulents contract diseases or fungal infections, it is certainly tempting to respond immediately and forcefully, but you must be careful. When using chemicals, always read package directions thoroughly and do not reapply more often than recommended by the label. Always make sure your succulent isn’t environmentally stressed before applying chemicals.
Unwise Watering
Succulents are known for needing little water, and while too little will cause them to wilt and fail to thrive, you must be careful about over-watering them. Giving succulents too much water too often will swell their leaves and, if they do not get a chance to dry out, cause them to drop off the plant. Wait until soil is almost completely dry and the leaves look a little limp before watering, then water thoroughly, until you see trickles coming out of the bottom of the pot. Repeat the process. Always use pots with drainage holes for succulents.
Temperature Trouble
Because most succulents are adapted to hot, arid areas where prolonged periods of heat are the norm, they respond by dropping leaves when stressed by heat or drought. Although this is relatively normal, keeping succulents in the shade when temperatures soar will help prevent this. Watch them closely: if they look wilted or sunburned, move them or place a shade cloth over them. The opposite problem also occurs: succulents do not do well with freezes, which may blacken and burn their leaves. Sometimes these will fall off, but usually not until the plant grows new leaves to replace them, so resist the urge to peel off these protective dead leaves. The Stonecrop (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’) for example, grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, and will tolerate a wide range of temperatures but may still drop leaves when stressed.
Low Light
Succulents need enough light, especially as they are typically adapted to areas with lots of sun year-round. They do best in brightly lit areas, and when lacking light, will turn light green or yellow and straggly, trying to grow toward the light. If the problem is not corrected, they will eventually drop leaves or die. Low light is not the only problem — succulents that are moved to a new area without acclimation, or suddenly rotated in a bright spot, may get a sunburn on the side that hasn’t seen sun for a while. Make changes slowly, and wait for plants to adapt before moving on.
Chemical Burns
Shocking the system of a succulent can also cause leaf drop. When succulents contract diseases or fungal infections, it is certainly tempting to respond immediately and forcefully, but you must be careful. When using chemicals, always read package directions thoroughly and do not reapply more often than recommended by the label. Always make sure your succulent isn’t environmentally stressed before applying chemicals.
Unwise Watering
Succulents are known for needing little water, and while too little will cause them to wilt and fail to thrive, you must be careful about over-watering them. Giving succulents too much water too often will swell their leaves and, if they do not get a chance to dry out, cause them to drop off the plant. Wait until soil is almost completely dry and the leaves look a little limp before watering, then water thoroughly, until you see trickles coming out of the bottom of the pot. Repeat the process. Always use pots with drainage holes for succulents.
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