文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月25日
Butternut squash (Cucurbita moschata) is a type of winter squash. The fruit starts out with a light green skin, but its skin, or shell, turns beige when the squash is ready to be harvested in fall. The flesh is dense and rich-orange in color. Some people roast butternut squash and use it in soups, while others boil it, mash it, and serve it in place of mashed potatoes. This nutritious vegetable (technically a fruit) is high in vitamin A.
Butternut squash plants are annuals that grow in almost any climate. They are planted in spring, following the last frost of the season. Their vines grow quickly, but the fruits may not be ready to harvest for three to four months from planting time.
Botanical Name Cucurbita moschata
Common Names Butternut squash, Butternut pumpkin, Gramma
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 9 to 18 inches tall, 10 to 15 feet wide (vine length)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic to neutral (5.5 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 2 to 11
Native Area Central America, South America
How to Plant Butternut Squash
If you want an instant garden, you can sometimes find butternut squash seedlings for sale in peat pots at the garden center. Peat pots break down naturally when planted in the ground, so there is no need to do any transplanting. Butternut squash also is very easy to grow from seed.
Commonly, gardeners plant butternut squash in groups of three, forming a so-called "hill." Hills should be spaced at least 8 feet apart and should be amended ahead of time with compost, manure, etc. Plant seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep, in groups of four or five seeds. When the seedlings emerge, thin them to the spacing interval specified for the variety.
When the seedlings are young, they are susceptible to drought (so keep their soil moist) and to damage from slugs and snails. Be sure to take control measures against these pests. Later in the season, Japanese beetles can become a problem. You can dust the leaves with garden lime to discourage them or simply pick them off by hand.
During the summer, butternut squash vines profit from regular watering and fertilizing. As fruits form on the vines, place something under them so that they do not have direct contact with the soil. This will keep them dry and help prevent rotting. You can place small boards, flat stones, bricks, or straw mulch under them.
Butternut Squash Care
Light
Butternut squash needs full sun, ideally 6 hours per day. More time in the sun is fine, provided the plants are not overheated.
Soil
The soil should be rich in organic material, and it must drain well. It can be slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0.
Water
Seedlings must not be allowed to dry out. As the summer progresses and the vines get bigger, your plants will need even more water. During hot, dry weather, leaves may wilt on a daily basis but will revive as the day cools. If leaves are wilted in the morning, water the plants right away.
Fertilizer
Butternut squash is a heavy feeder. Start with rich soil, and side dress with organic compost or aged manure in the middle of the growing season. In addition, apply a compost tea or liquid fertilizer at two- to three-week intervals.
Temperature and Humidity
Squash are cold-sensitive and will not germinate unless the soil is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants love the sun, but they can overheat. During the hot days of summer, it's normal for the leaves to wilt in the afternoon, then revive after the sun goes down. If your plants are not reviving, try giving them some afternoon shade.
Winter Squash vs. Summer Squash
A "winter squash" is defined as a kind of squash that has a hard enough skin that it preserves well if stored in a cool place. Thus, if you were to harvest one in October, it would keep until December (winter) if stored in a suitable place, such as un unheated basement or root cellar.
Butternut squash is just one of several winter squashes that are commonly grown. Another popular winter squash is Hubbard squash (Cucurbita maxima), which has a gray, bumpy exterior.
In contrast to winter squashes, there are also summer squashes, such as zucchini squash (Cucurbita pepo var. cylindrica). Summer squashes have a soft skin and perish quickly.
Harvesting
Use the color of the fruits to determine when to harvest them. As summer winds down, their skin will begin to turn light beige. They are ready to harvest when that beige color becomes deeper; the skin will often have bronze highlights (and no green streaks) in it when the fruit is ripe. Three other indicators will help you determine maturity:
Check the stem where it meets the fruit; it turns a brownish color (as if drying out) at maturity.
The skin should have a dull appearance (no shine).
Thump the fruit with your knuckle; it should be hard and produce a hollow sound.
How to Grow Butternut Squash From Seed
Most gardeners purchase butternut squash seed packets (available at grocery stores, hardware stores, online, and from seed catalogs). Once you have the seeds, you can start them indoors to get a jump on the season, or you can wait until danger of frost has passed and direct-sow outdoors. Direct seeding in the garden is easier, but starting seeds indoors can be helpful to those in areas with short summers.
To start seeds indoors, plant them about three weeks before the last frost in spring. Fill peat pots with potting soil, and plant two seeds in each pot. Water, and place the pots in a sunny window. Do not let the soil dry out completely. If both seeds in a pot germinate, select the healthiest seedling as the one to keep and pinch out the other.
Now begins the hardening off process. On warm days, set the pots outdoors for a few hours at a time. Bring them back indoors at night. Gradually increase the number of hours that they stay out. This process helps them adjust to the transition from an indoor environment to an outdoor environment. Plant the peat pots in the ground once the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit and all threat of frost has passed.
If you choose to direct seed, simply skip to the step where you create hills and plant four or five seeds in each hill, thinning them out later.
Butternut squash plants are annuals that grow in almost any climate. They are planted in spring, following the last frost of the season. Their vines grow quickly, but the fruits may not be ready to harvest for three to four months from planting time.
Botanical Name Cucurbita moschata
Common Names Butternut squash, Butternut pumpkin, Gramma
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 9 to 18 inches tall, 10 to 15 feet wide (vine length)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic to neutral (5.5 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 2 to 11
Native Area Central America, South America
How to Plant Butternut Squash
If you want an instant garden, you can sometimes find butternut squash seedlings for sale in peat pots at the garden center. Peat pots break down naturally when planted in the ground, so there is no need to do any transplanting. Butternut squash also is very easy to grow from seed.
Commonly, gardeners plant butternut squash in groups of three, forming a so-called "hill." Hills should be spaced at least 8 feet apart and should be amended ahead of time with compost, manure, etc. Plant seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep, in groups of four or five seeds. When the seedlings emerge, thin them to the spacing interval specified for the variety.
When the seedlings are young, they are susceptible to drought (so keep their soil moist) and to damage from slugs and snails. Be sure to take control measures against these pests. Later in the season, Japanese beetles can become a problem. You can dust the leaves with garden lime to discourage them or simply pick them off by hand.
During the summer, butternut squash vines profit from regular watering and fertilizing. As fruits form on the vines, place something under them so that they do not have direct contact with the soil. This will keep them dry and help prevent rotting. You can place small boards, flat stones, bricks, or straw mulch under them.
Butternut Squash Care
Light
Butternut squash needs full sun, ideally 6 hours per day. More time in the sun is fine, provided the plants are not overheated.
Soil
The soil should be rich in organic material, and it must drain well. It can be slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0.
Water
Seedlings must not be allowed to dry out. As the summer progresses and the vines get bigger, your plants will need even more water. During hot, dry weather, leaves may wilt on a daily basis but will revive as the day cools. If leaves are wilted in the morning, water the plants right away.
Fertilizer
Butternut squash is a heavy feeder. Start with rich soil, and side dress with organic compost or aged manure in the middle of the growing season. In addition, apply a compost tea or liquid fertilizer at two- to three-week intervals.
Temperature and Humidity
Squash are cold-sensitive and will not germinate unless the soil is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants love the sun, but they can overheat. During the hot days of summer, it's normal for the leaves to wilt in the afternoon, then revive after the sun goes down. If your plants are not reviving, try giving them some afternoon shade.
Winter Squash vs. Summer Squash
A "winter squash" is defined as a kind of squash that has a hard enough skin that it preserves well if stored in a cool place. Thus, if you were to harvest one in October, it would keep until December (winter) if stored in a suitable place, such as un unheated basement or root cellar.
Butternut squash is just one of several winter squashes that are commonly grown. Another popular winter squash is Hubbard squash (Cucurbita maxima), which has a gray, bumpy exterior.
In contrast to winter squashes, there are also summer squashes, such as zucchini squash (Cucurbita pepo var. cylindrica). Summer squashes have a soft skin and perish quickly.
Harvesting
Use the color of the fruits to determine when to harvest them. As summer winds down, their skin will begin to turn light beige. They are ready to harvest when that beige color becomes deeper; the skin will often have bronze highlights (and no green streaks) in it when the fruit is ripe. Three other indicators will help you determine maturity:
Check the stem where it meets the fruit; it turns a brownish color (as if drying out) at maturity.
The skin should have a dull appearance (no shine).
Thump the fruit with your knuckle; it should be hard and produce a hollow sound.
How to Grow Butternut Squash From Seed
Most gardeners purchase butternut squash seed packets (available at grocery stores, hardware stores, online, and from seed catalogs). Once you have the seeds, you can start them indoors to get a jump on the season, or you can wait until danger of frost has passed and direct-sow outdoors. Direct seeding in the garden is easier, but starting seeds indoors can be helpful to those in areas with short summers.
To start seeds indoors, plant them about three weeks before the last frost in spring. Fill peat pots with potting soil, and plant two seeds in each pot. Water, and place the pots in a sunny window. Do not let the soil dry out completely. If both seeds in a pot germinate, select the healthiest seedling as the one to keep and pinch out the other.
Now begins the hardening off process. On warm days, set the pots outdoors for a few hours at a time. Bring them back indoors at night. Gradually increase the number of hours that they stay out. This process helps them adjust to the transition from an indoor environment to an outdoor environment. Plant the peat pots in the ground once the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit and all threat of frost has passed.
If you choose to direct seed, simply skip to the step where you create hills and plant four or five seeds in each hill, thinning them out later.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月23日
Butterfly weed is a must-have plant for gardeners looking to coax the namesake winged insects into the garden. This clump-forming perennial grows from tuberous roots to a height of 1 to 2 feet and is characterized by glossy-green, lance-shaped leaves and clusters of bright orange-to-yellow blooms that are rich with nectar and pollen. A type of milkweed, butterfly weed is generally planted in late spring after the soil is workable. It is fairly slow to become established and may take as much as three years before it flowers. When it finally does flower, its clusters of bright orange-yellow flowers will display from late spring until late summer. Unlike other milkweeds, butterfly weed does not have caustic milky sap, but it does produce the characteristic seed pods that release silky-tailed seeds to disperse on the wind.
Butterfly weed is considered mildly toxic to humans and to animals.1 But because it has much lower levels of the toxic sap found in standard milkweed, butterfly weed is regarded as a safer plant in homes with children or pets.
Common Name Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, pleurisy root, orange milkweed
Botanical Name Asclepias tuberosa
Family Asclepiadaceae
Plant type Herbaceous perennial
Mature size 1–2 ft. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Sun exposure Full
Soil type Dry, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acid to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom time Summer
Flower color Orange, yellow
Hardiness zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native area North America (eastern and southeastern U.S.)
Toxicity Mildly toxic to animals and humans
Butterfly Weed Care
Beloved for its ability to attract a variety of helpful (and beautiful) insects to the garden, butterfly weed is an easy-to-nurture herbaceous perennial that can also be found growing as a native wildflower in a slew of untamed environments, such as meadows, prairies, and forest clearings. Typically grown from seeds you sow directly in the garden, butterfly weed does not require much tending to in order to thrive, prospering well in everything from clay soil to dry, rocky soil, and even in drought-like conditions.
Its seed pods will turn brown towards the end of the growing season (early autumn) and if left on the plant, they will burst and spread seeds throughout your garden to emerge as new volunteer plants the following spring. While the plant can take up to three years to fully mature and produce flowers, its blooms will gradually grow denser with each season that passes.
Like other types of milkweed, butterfly weed produces large seed pods that disperse small seeds with hairs that disperse on the wind. Thus, it can be an invasive plant that spreads every which way unless you break off the seed pods before they mature and split. Be careful when using this plant in gardens near wild prairie or meadow areas, as spreading is likely.
Light
If possible, choose a spot in your garden that boasts lots of bright sunlight daily, as this plant loves to soak up the rays. Full sun is definitely your best bet, but his hardy plant can tolerate a few hours of shade, too.
Soil
Butterfly weed can prosper in a variety of soil conditions and compositions, from clay to gravel, and it generally prefers a neutral to slightly acidic pH.
Water
During its first year of life (or until new plants start showing mature growth), you should maintain a moist soil environment for butterfly weed, giving it about 1 inch of water per week through combined rainfall and irrigation. Once the plant appears to be well-established, you can cut back to watering it only occasionally, as it now prefers dry soil. Mature plants can do well with just monthly watering in all but the driest climates.
Temperature and Humidity
Butterfly weed thrives in a variety of different temperature and humidity settings, growing well in zones 3 to 9. Generally, the plant emerges in late spring, hitting its peak bloom during the warmer summer months and drying on the stem throughout the autumn and winter. It handles high-humidity and arid climates equally well, provided it gets adequate soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Butterfly weed is a low-maintenance plant that does not require any additional fertilization—in fact, doing so can harm the plant, making it excessively leggy and reducing blooms.
Types of Butterfly Weed
There are a number of named cultivars of this plant. Most varieties, as well as the native species, are orange. But some popular varieties offer color variations:
'Hello Yellow' is a variety with bright yellow flowers.
'Gay Butterflies' has decidedly reddish flowers.
‘Western Gold Mix’has golden-orange flowers and is bred especially for the alkaline soils of the western U.S.
Pruning Butterfly Weed
Though butterfly weed does not need much pruning throughout the year, it can be cut back to the ground ahead of the winter season. In late autumn, you'll notice the leaves on the butterfly weed are beginning to yellow and the stems are drying out and turning brown. This is a sign that the plant is entering dormancy for the season—at this point, you can take a clean set of pruning shears and cut the plant to the ground, where it will stay until it reemerges in spring.
How to Propagate Butterfly Weed
Butterfly weed is very easy to propagate from seed, but because seeds can take two to three years to mature into flowering plants, many gardeners choose to propagate from root cuttings. Here's how to do it:
In fall after flowering is complete, use a trowel or shovel, dig up the plant's long taproot,
Using a sharp knife, cut the taproot into 2-inch-long sections.
Plant the pieces in the desired location in a vertical orientation, with the tops just barely covered with soil. These plants do not like to be moved, so make sure to plant the pieces with this in mind.
How to Grow Butterfly Weed From Seed
Typically, the easiest and most successful way to add butterfly weed to your garden is to grow it from seed. Plant fresh seeds in fall for growth the following spring, or allow any established butterfly weeds already in your garden to do the work for you.
Beginning in late summer or early fall, the plants should start to develop seed pods at the base of the pollinated blooms. If left on the stem, the pods will eventually burst and the seeds inside will be blown throughout your garden, allowing them to establish themselves in the soil in time for the following year. If you'd rather have more control over the eventual location of any new butterfly weed plants, you can remove the seed pods from the plant before they burst open and simply plant new seeds by hand instead.
Overwintering
Overwintering butterfly weed is a simple matter of cutting off the plant stem near ground level as soon as the plant succumbs to cold temperatures in the fall or early winter. There is no harm to leaving the plant stalks in place, though this encourages rampant self-seeding, which is usually not desired. Don't mulch over the root crowns, as this can encourage rot.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
In most circumstances, butterfly weed is largely trouble-free, but it can be susceptible to root rot if it is planted in dense soil that gets too much moisture. It can also be susceptible to fungal diseases such as rust and other leaf spots, though these are usually merely cosmetic and not fatal.
The plant can be susceptible to aphid damage, which usually is controlled by lady beetles and other predator insects unless the infestation is severe, at which point you can spray with an insecticidal soap or pesticide.
How to Get Butterfly Weed to Bloom
In general, butterfly weed is not a difficult plant to cultivate and should bloom freely on its own once it has reached maturity (which can take up to three years). That being said, if you're struggling to get your butterfly weed to bloom, there could be a few factors at play.
It's important to get your watering cadence right for the plant. It should be watered regularly until new growth starts to appear (this includes leaves and stems, not just blooms), at which point you can decrease the frequency with which you water. Additionally, butterfly weed plants should not be fertilized. While fertilizer may work to make other plants bloom, it can actually harm butterfly weed and discourage blooming.
Common Problems With Butterfly Weed
Other than the root rot that can appear in dense, wet soils, there are only a couple of common problems with butterfly weed.
Self-Seeding
The most common issue with butterfly weed is the rampant self-seeding that happens if the seed pods aren't removed before they burst and scatter their seeds. This can be prevented by removing the seed pods before they dry and burst open. The volunteer plants that appear due to self-seeding should be removed before they establish long tap roots.
Rabbit Damage
Butterfly weed is very attractive to feeding rabbits. Rodent repellant granules or sprays can provide some prevention, but metal fencing around the plants is the best solution.
Butterfly weed is considered mildly toxic to humans and to animals.1 But because it has much lower levels of the toxic sap found in standard milkweed, butterfly weed is regarded as a safer plant in homes with children or pets.
Common Name Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, pleurisy root, orange milkweed
Botanical Name Asclepias tuberosa
Family Asclepiadaceae
Plant type Herbaceous perennial
Mature size 1–2 ft. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Sun exposure Full
Soil type Dry, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acid to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom time Summer
Flower color Orange, yellow
Hardiness zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native area North America (eastern and southeastern U.S.)
Toxicity Mildly toxic to animals and humans
Butterfly Weed Care
Beloved for its ability to attract a variety of helpful (and beautiful) insects to the garden, butterfly weed is an easy-to-nurture herbaceous perennial that can also be found growing as a native wildflower in a slew of untamed environments, such as meadows, prairies, and forest clearings. Typically grown from seeds you sow directly in the garden, butterfly weed does not require much tending to in order to thrive, prospering well in everything from clay soil to dry, rocky soil, and even in drought-like conditions.
Its seed pods will turn brown towards the end of the growing season (early autumn) and if left on the plant, they will burst and spread seeds throughout your garden to emerge as new volunteer plants the following spring. While the plant can take up to three years to fully mature and produce flowers, its blooms will gradually grow denser with each season that passes.
Like other types of milkweed, butterfly weed produces large seed pods that disperse small seeds with hairs that disperse on the wind. Thus, it can be an invasive plant that spreads every which way unless you break off the seed pods before they mature and split. Be careful when using this plant in gardens near wild prairie or meadow areas, as spreading is likely.
Light
If possible, choose a spot in your garden that boasts lots of bright sunlight daily, as this plant loves to soak up the rays. Full sun is definitely your best bet, but his hardy plant can tolerate a few hours of shade, too.
Soil
Butterfly weed can prosper in a variety of soil conditions and compositions, from clay to gravel, and it generally prefers a neutral to slightly acidic pH.
Water
During its first year of life (or until new plants start showing mature growth), you should maintain a moist soil environment for butterfly weed, giving it about 1 inch of water per week through combined rainfall and irrigation. Once the plant appears to be well-established, you can cut back to watering it only occasionally, as it now prefers dry soil. Mature plants can do well with just monthly watering in all but the driest climates.
Temperature and Humidity
Butterfly weed thrives in a variety of different temperature and humidity settings, growing well in zones 3 to 9. Generally, the plant emerges in late spring, hitting its peak bloom during the warmer summer months and drying on the stem throughout the autumn and winter. It handles high-humidity and arid climates equally well, provided it gets adequate soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Butterfly weed is a low-maintenance plant that does not require any additional fertilization—in fact, doing so can harm the plant, making it excessively leggy and reducing blooms.
Types of Butterfly Weed
There are a number of named cultivars of this plant. Most varieties, as well as the native species, are orange. But some popular varieties offer color variations:
'Hello Yellow' is a variety with bright yellow flowers.
'Gay Butterflies' has decidedly reddish flowers.
‘Western Gold Mix’has golden-orange flowers and is bred especially for the alkaline soils of the western U.S.
Pruning Butterfly Weed
Though butterfly weed does not need much pruning throughout the year, it can be cut back to the ground ahead of the winter season. In late autumn, you'll notice the leaves on the butterfly weed are beginning to yellow and the stems are drying out and turning brown. This is a sign that the plant is entering dormancy for the season—at this point, you can take a clean set of pruning shears and cut the plant to the ground, where it will stay until it reemerges in spring.
How to Propagate Butterfly Weed
Butterfly weed is very easy to propagate from seed, but because seeds can take two to three years to mature into flowering plants, many gardeners choose to propagate from root cuttings. Here's how to do it:
In fall after flowering is complete, use a trowel or shovel, dig up the plant's long taproot,
Using a sharp knife, cut the taproot into 2-inch-long sections.
Plant the pieces in the desired location in a vertical orientation, with the tops just barely covered with soil. These plants do not like to be moved, so make sure to plant the pieces with this in mind.
How to Grow Butterfly Weed From Seed
Typically, the easiest and most successful way to add butterfly weed to your garden is to grow it from seed. Plant fresh seeds in fall for growth the following spring, or allow any established butterfly weeds already in your garden to do the work for you.
Beginning in late summer or early fall, the plants should start to develop seed pods at the base of the pollinated blooms. If left on the stem, the pods will eventually burst and the seeds inside will be blown throughout your garden, allowing them to establish themselves in the soil in time for the following year. If you'd rather have more control over the eventual location of any new butterfly weed plants, you can remove the seed pods from the plant before they burst open and simply plant new seeds by hand instead.
Overwintering
Overwintering butterfly weed is a simple matter of cutting off the plant stem near ground level as soon as the plant succumbs to cold temperatures in the fall or early winter. There is no harm to leaving the plant stalks in place, though this encourages rampant self-seeding, which is usually not desired. Don't mulch over the root crowns, as this can encourage rot.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
In most circumstances, butterfly weed is largely trouble-free, but it can be susceptible to root rot if it is planted in dense soil that gets too much moisture. It can also be susceptible to fungal diseases such as rust and other leaf spots, though these are usually merely cosmetic and not fatal.
The plant can be susceptible to aphid damage, which usually is controlled by lady beetles and other predator insects unless the infestation is severe, at which point you can spray with an insecticidal soap or pesticide.
How to Get Butterfly Weed to Bloom
In general, butterfly weed is not a difficult plant to cultivate and should bloom freely on its own once it has reached maturity (which can take up to three years). That being said, if you're struggling to get your butterfly weed to bloom, there could be a few factors at play.
It's important to get your watering cadence right for the plant. It should be watered regularly until new growth starts to appear (this includes leaves and stems, not just blooms), at which point you can decrease the frequency with which you water. Additionally, butterfly weed plants should not be fertilized. While fertilizer may work to make other plants bloom, it can actually harm butterfly weed and discourage blooming.
Common Problems With Butterfly Weed
Other than the root rot that can appear in dense, wet soils, there are only a couple of common problems with butterfly weed.
Self-Seeding
The most common issue with butterfly weed is the rampant self-seeding that happens if the seed pods aren't removed before they burst and scatter their seeds. This can be prevented by removing the seed pods before they dry and burst open. The volunteer plants that appear due to self-seeding should be removed before they establish long tap roots.
Rabbit Damage
Butterfly weed is very attractive to feeding rabbits. Rodent repellant granules or sprays can provide some prevention, but metal fencing around the plants is the best solution.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月30日
Broom plants are small- to medium-sized shrubs with evergreen or deciduous foliage. Leaves are green and small, usually lanceolate. The two main species that share the common name Broom are Cytisus and Genista. Both look very similar. The main difference is Genistas are more tolerant of lime in water and soil. From the Fabaceae (legume) or Leguminosae (pea) family, broom plants bear pea-like flowers in shades of yellow as well as many others. It grows quickly in a lax, bushy habit. One quite common sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus syn. Genista racemosa) is often found along highways on the West Coast of the United States.
Some gardeners regard the broom plant to be an invasive weed, while others favor this attractive fast-spreading plant for its airy feel and scented summer blossoms, which attract many pollinators.
Botanical Name Cytisus spp. and Genista spp.
Common Names Broom, Broom Plant, Sweet Broom
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 5-6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained, loam, poor
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Yellow, cream, crimson, brown-red, orange, rose, mauve, lavender
Hardiness Zones 5-8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to cats, dogs, and humans
Broom Plant Care
Broom plants can be used in a variety of areas in your landscape thanks to their varying heights and colorful displays. For example, brooms will display pops of color in the spring and summer which can contrast nicely when planted in front of other green shrubs. Or, use taller varieties of broom plants as a hedge or border. The dwarf varieties of brooms look beautifully nestled as mass plantings in a rock garden.
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Broom plants like workable, well-draining soil that's prepared in an open, sunny locations. The plants will tolerate wind, poor soil, and even rocks. This wild shrub will thrive throughout drought and cold for years to come.
Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.v
Some gardeners regard the broom plant to be an invasive weed, while others favor this attractive fast-spreading plant for its airy feel and scented summer blossoms, which attract many pollinators.
Botanical Name Cytisus spp. and Genista spp.
Common Names Broom, Broom Plant, Sweet Broom
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 5-6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained, loam, poor
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Yellow, cream, crimson, brown-red, orange, rose, mauve, lavender
Hardiness Zones 5-8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to cats, dogs, and humans
Broom Plant Care
Broom plants can be used in a variety of areas in your landscape thanks to their varying heights and colorful displays. For example, brooms will display pops of color in the spring and summer which can contrast nicely when planted in front of other green shrubs. Or, use taller varieties of broom plants as a hedge or border. The dwarf varieties of brooms look beautifully nestled as mass plantings in a rock garden.
v
Broom plants like workable, well-draining soil that's prepared in an open, sunny locations. The plants will tolerate wind, poor soil, and even rocks. This wild shrub will thrive throughout drought and cold for years to come.
Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.v
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月18日
Bird's nest ferns (Asplenium nidus) are naturally epiphytic, meaning they grow on the surface of other plants. In their rainforest homes, they can be found growing high in the crooks of trees. They form a series of erect, spoon-shaped, bright green fronds that rise from a central rosette. Healthy plants can have fronds up to 5 feet long, but bird's nest ferns kept as houseplants typically have fronds that grow only about 2 feet long. These ferns have a slow growth rate. They're best planted in the spring, though houseplants generally can be started year-round.
Common Name Bird's nest fern, nest fern
Botanical Name Asplenium nidus
Family Aspleniaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 11–12, USA
Native Area Asia, Australia, Africa
Bird's Nest Fern Care
The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing it with ample warmth, humidity, and moisture. When growing it as a houseplant, one of the best places to situate a bird's nest fern is near a shower or tub in a bathroom where it will receive optimal humidity and warmth, though it must have a light source as well.
New leaves will constantly emerge from the central area of the plant, which resembles a bird's nest. Do not touch, move, or handle the new, delicate fronds as they emerge from the center. They are extremely fragile, and if you touch them, there is a high chance of them becoming damaged or deformed.
Light
Bird’s nest ferns grow well in filtered sunlight to a moderate amount of shade. Don’t expose them to direct sunlight other than the very early morning sun. Harsh direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Indoors, an east- or north-facing window is ideal.
Soil
These plants like soil that’s loose and rich in organic matter with excellent drainage. A peat-based potting mix is good for container plants.
Water
The ferns prefer a consistent amount of soil moisture, but they don’t do well sitting in soggy soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid watering directly into the center of the plant, as this can encourage mold growth and rot in the dense nest. Aim water at the soil to avoid wetting the fern's fronds.
Temperature and Humidity
The bird’s nest fern thrives in warmth with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50 degrees, but anything colder than that can harm the plant, especially with prolonged exposure. Indoors, be sure to protect your plant from cool drafts, such as air blowing from an air-conditioning vent.
This fern prefers high humidity and moist environments, such as a bathroom, greenhouse, or terrarium. To raise the humidity around a bird’s nest fern, you can use a humidifier. Or you can set its pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. But make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water because that can lead to root rot.
Fertilizer
During the fern's active growing season (April through September), fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer that's diluted to half strength. Make sure to apply the fertilizer to the soil and not the fronds, as direct contact with fertilizer can burn foliage. Withhold fertilizer for the rest of the year because too much food can cause the fronds to have an abnormal shape or take on a yellowish or brownish color.
Types of Bird's Nest Fern
There are only a handful of varieties of bird’s nest ferns, which typically feature different leaf shapes. They include:
Asplenium nidus 'Crispy Wave': Sword-shaped ruffled leaves
Asplenium nidus 'Osaka': Narrow, strap-like leaves with rippled edges
Asplenium nidus 'Antiquum': Wavy leaf margins
Asplenium nidus 'Victoria': Long, wavy, tongue-shaped fronds
Propagating Bird's Nest Fern
Bird’s nest ferns can be tricky to propagate for beginner gardeners. Many people opt to purchase nursery plants instead, though propagating them yourself will save you some money. Propagation occurs via spores, which look like fuzzy brown spots on the undersides of fronds. When they look especially plump and fuzzy, that's when it's time to propagate.
To collect the spores, cut off a frond with these spots and place it in a paper bag for a few days. The spores will drop into the bag. Next, add the spores on top of a container of sphagnum moss that’s placed in a water dish, so the moss will soak up the water. The moss should be moist throughout but not waterlogged. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep the environment moist, and place it in a warm, shaded spot. Keep the dish filled with water, and mist the moss if it doesn't feel moist. Germination should occur in a few weeks.
Potting and Repotting Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns must be potted in a container with ample drainage holes. As an epiphytic plant, bird's nest ferns are accustomed to growing with minimal potting media. So your plant generally won’t need repotting because its roots have run out of space. Instead, these ferns will need repotting once they’ve grown so large that they’re unstable in their pot and need a larger container to attach themselves to. This will typically occur every two to three years, and spring is the best time to repot. When it’s time to repot, select a container that's large enough to keep your plant stable. A clay container is often better than plastic to anchor the plant. Carefully loosen your plant from its previous pot, set it in the new pot at the same depth as it was before, and fill around it with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
No serious disease or pest problems affect bird's nest ferns, though they can be affected by some insects common to houseplants, such as scale. Natural insecticidal soaps are the best solution to combat pest issues, since chemical pesticides will damage this plant's fragile leaves.
Common Problems With Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns are generally healthy plants, but they can be prone to a few issues that largely have to do with an improper environment.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Too much sun can cause the foliage of a bird's nest fern to turn yellow. Likewise, too much fertilizer also can cause yellowing. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure it's always in proper sunlight conditions. And adjust fertilization if necessary.
Browning Tips
Fronds naturally turn brown as they die and are replaced with fresh growth. But browning along the edges of a frond is often due to drafts hitting the plant. Move your fern away from air-conditioning vents and any drafty windows or doors.
Common Name Bird's nest fern, nest fern
Botanical Name Asplenium nidus
Family Aspleniaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 11–12, USA
Native Area Asia, Australia, Africa
Bird's Nest Fern Care
The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing it with ample warmth, humidity, and moisture. When growing it as a houseplant, one of the best places to situate a bird's nest fern is near a shower or tub in a bathroom where it will receive optimal humidity and warmth, though it must have a light source as well.
New leaves will constantly emerge from the central area of the plant, which resembles a bird's nest. Do not touch, move, or handle the new, delicate fronds as they emerge from the center. They are extremely fragile, and if you touch them, there is a high chance of them becoming damaged or deformed.
Light
Bird’s nest ferns grow well in filtered sunlight to a moderate amount of shade. Don’t expose them to direct sunlight other than the very early morning sun. Harsh direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Indoors, an east- or north-facing window is ideal.
Soil
These plants like soil that’s loose and rich in organic matter with excellent drainage. A peat-based potting mix is good for container plants.
Water
The ferns prefer a consistent amount of soil moisture, but they don’t do well sitting in soggy soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid watering directly into the center of the plant, as this can encourage mold growth and rot in the dense nest. Aim water at the soil to avoid wetting the fern's fronds.
Temperature and Humidity
The bird’s nest fern thrives in warmth with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50 degrees, but anything colder than that can harm the plant, especially with prolonged exposure. Indoors, be sure to protect your plant from cool drafts, such as air blowing from an air-conditioning vent.
This fern prefers high humidity and moist environments, such as a bathroom, greenhouse, or terrarium. To raise the humidity around a bird’s nest fern, you can use a humidifier. Or you can set its pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. But make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water because that can lead to root rot.
Fertilizer
During the fern's active growing season (April through September), fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer that's diluted to half strength. Make sure to apply the fertilizer to the soil and not the fronds, as direct contact with fertilizer can burn foliage. Withhold fertilizer for the rest of the year because too much food can cause the fronds to have an abnormal shape or take on a yellowish or brownish color.
Types of Bird's Nest Fern
There are only a handful of varieties of bird’s nest ferns, which typically feature different leaf shapes. They include:
Asplenium nidus 'Crispy Wave': Sword-shaped ruffled leaves
Asplenium nidus 'Osaka': Narrow, strap-like leaves with rippled edges
Asplenium nidus 'Antiquum': Wavy leaf margins
Asplenium nidus 'Victoria': Long, wavy, tongue-shaped fronds
Propagating Bird's Nest Fern
Bird’s nest ferns can be tricky to propagate for beginner gardeners. Many people opt to purchase nursery plants instead, though propagating them yourself will save you some money. Propagation occurs via spores, which look like fuzzy brown spots on the undersides of fronds. When they look especially plump and fuzzy, that's when it's time to propagate.
To collect the spores, cut off a frond with these spots and place it in a paper bag for a few days. The spores will drop into the bag. Next, add the spores on top of a container of sphagnum moss that’s placed in a water dish, so the moss will soak up the water. The moss should be moist throughout but not waterlogged. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep the environment moist, and place it in a warm, shaded spot. Keep the dish filled with water, and mist the moss if it doesn't feel moist. Germination should occur in a few weeks.
Potting and Repotting Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns must be potted in a container with ample drainage holes. As an epiphytic plant, bird's nest ferns are accustomed to growing with minimal potting media. So your plant generally won’t need repotting because its roots have run out of space. Instead, these ferns will need repotting once they’ve grown so large that they’re unstable in their pot and need a larger container to attach themselves to. This will typically occur every two to three years, and spring is the best time to repot. When it’s time to repot, select a container that's large enough to keep your plant stable. A clay container is often better than plastic to anchor the plant. Carefully loosen your plant from its previous pot, set it in the new pot at the same depth as it was before, and fill around it with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
No serious disease or pest problems affect bird's nest ferns, though they can be affected by some insects common to houseplants, such as scale. Natural insecticidal soaps are the best solution to combat pest issues, since chemical pesticides will damage this plant's fragile leaves.
Common Problems With Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns are generally healthy plants, but they can be prone to a few issues that largely have to do with an improper environment.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Too much sun can cause the foliage of a bird's nest fern to turn yellow. Likewise, too much fertilizer also can cause yellowing. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure it's always in proper sunlight conditions. And adjust fertilization if necessary.
Browning Tips
Fronds naturally turn brown as they die and are replaced with fresh growth. But browning along the edges of a frond is often due to drafts hitting the plant. Move your fern away from air-conditioning vents and any drafty windows or doors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月31日
Aubrieta, a cheerful ground cover, is a great candidate for edging your paths or tucking into stone walls if your site meets some basic growing requirements. When the profuse magenta flowers have faded, the grayish-green foliage maintains a handsome mat that covers bare areas under leggy roses or between paving stones on a garden path. These plants are far more common in Europe than in North America. The genus name derives from Claude Aubriet, a European landscape artist from the 17th century.
Botanical Name Aubrieta spp.
Common Name Aubrieta, false rock cress
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 4 to 6 inches tall; 12-to 24-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Lean, rocky soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to alkaline)
Bloom Time April, May
Flower Color Pink, purple, white
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Rocky regions of southwestern Europe
How to Grow Aubrieta
Aubrieta thrives best when planted in well-draining, alkaline soil in a full sun location. In midsummer, the foliage tends to die back and will benefit from a hard shearing. As a member of the mustard family, this is a tough plant that requires little care. Once established, it has a good tolerance for drought, and it resists nibbling by deer.
Aubrieta is rarely bothered by insect pests. Plants growing in damp, shady areas may experience downy mildew.1 Prevent this fungal disease by providing enough light and spacing for air circulation.
Light
Aubrieta plants shine in full sun, but will also grow in part shade. For best results, grow plants where they will receive at least a half-day of sun. Plants that grow in too much shade will lose their compact, mounded appearance, take on a leggy look, and have sparse flowers.
Soil
Aubrietas like a rocky, alkaline soil, which mimics the soil found in their native alpine habitats. If the pH is low, increase it with the addition of lime. Good drainage is important to prevent root rot.2 Use gravel, vermiculite, or another non-organic soil amendment that will help drainage without lowering soil pH.
Water
Aubrieta plants need a moderate amount of water, but they don't like wet feet. Rocky soils that prevent standing water will keep healthy root systems on your aubrieta plants.
Temperature and Humidity
Aubrieta plants grow best in areas with cool summers that mirror their alpine climate. Periods of high humidity are fine; in fact, the cool, damp climate of Great Britain or Washington state is where you are most likely to find extraordinary specimens of aubrieta plants.
Fertilizer
Aubrietas grow in lean soil and need no supplemental fertilizer to make beautiful blooms. At most, occasional watering with compost tea is all the feeding aubrieta plants need.
Being Grown in Containers
Aubrieta complements the container garden as a trailing plant, softening container edges. Plant it as a companion to other rock garden flowers with similar growing needs, like dianthus.
Potting and Repotting
Pot up your aubrieta plants with a lightweight all-purpose potting soil. A potting mix meant for cacti is also appropriate for aubrieta plants. Take care not to bury the foliage when potting up aubrieta. There are a few inches of brown stem beneath the foliage, and this is the working area of the plant when repotting. Lift the foliage, and carefully mound soil around the stems and roots to secure the plant in its place.
Pruning
Aubrieta can get a bit scraggly after blooming. Keep it tidy by trimming plants back after flowering. Use shears, and trim no more than half the plant's growth at any one time.
Propagating Aubrieta
You can divide aubrieta in early fall to increase your stock. Dig the plant, and tease the clump apart with your hands or a garden fork. Replant the divisions 12 inches apart.
Growing From Seeds
Aubrieta can be hard to find as nursery plants, so it is often grown from seed. Sow aubrieta seeds on top of sterile potting mix. The seeds need light for germination, so press seeds down but don't cover them. Keep seeds moist at about 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Germination will occur in two to three weeks.
Varieties of Aubrieta
'Rokey's Purple' is among the most commonly seen aubrieta in gardens; it features bright violet flowers.
'Doctor Mules Variegated' aubrieta offers a completely different look; it's important to know, however, that variegated types may revert to green, so prune away any all-green stems that form.
'Snowdrift' is a popular all-white cultivar.
Aubrieta vs. Creeping Phlox
The flowers and form of aubrieta and creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) are so similar as to be indistinguishable at first glance. Both plants grow as a creeping mat, spreading across the border's edge or trailing down walls. However, creeping phlox plants are more heat- and drought-tolerant than aubrieta, which may account for its preference in American gardens.
Landscape Uses
Spring-blooming aubrieta makes a perfect pocket plant for garden walls and rock gardens. The plants have a very small footprint and can establish a deep root system in the soil behind a retaining wall, while foliage and flowers can spread up to 18 inches or more, giving the appearance of a living wall. Aubrieta plants also provide good erosion control on hillsides and attract butterflies with their prolific spring flowers.
Botanical Name Aubrieta spp.
Common Name Aubrieta, false rock cress
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 4 to 6 inches tall; 12-to 24-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Lean, rocky soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to alkaline)
Bloom Time April, May
Flower Color Pink, purple, white
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Rocky regions of southwestern Europe
How to Grow Aubrieta
Aubrieta thrives best when planted in well-draining, alkaline soil in a full sun location. In midsummer, the foliage tends to die back and will benefit from a hard shearing. As a member of the mustard family, this is a tough plant that requires little care. Once established, it has a good tolerance for drought, and it resists nibbling by deer.
Aubrieta is rarely bothered by insect pests. Plants growing in damp, shady areas may experience downy mildew.1 Prevent this fungal disease by providing enough light and spacing for air circulation.
Light
Aubrieta plants shine in full sun, but will also grow in part shade. For best results, grow plants where they will receive at least a half-day of sun. Plants that grow in too much shade will lose their compact, mounded appearance, take on a leggy look, and have sparse flowers.
Soil
Aubrietas like a rocky, alkaline soil, which mimics the soil found in their native alpine habitats. If the pH is low, increase it with the addition of lime. Good drainage is important to prevent root rot.2 Use gravel, vermiculite, or another non-organic soil amendment that will help drainage without lowering soil pH.
Water
Aubrieta plants need a moderate amount of water, but they don't like wet feet. Rocky soils that prevent standing water will keep healthy root systems on your aubrieta plants.
Temperature and Humidity
Aubrieta plants grow best in areas with cool summers that mirror their alpine climate. Periods of high humidity are fine; in fact, the cool, damp climate of Great Britain or Washington state is where you are most likely to find extraordinary specimens of aubrieta plants.
Fertilizer
Aubrietas grow in lean soil and need no supplemental fertilizer to make beautiful blooms. At most, occasional watering with compost tea is all the feeding aubrieta plants need.
Being Grown in Containers
Aubrieta complements the container garden as a trailing plant, softening container edges. Plant it as a companion to other rock garden flowers with similar growing needs, like dianthus.
Potting and Repotting
Pot up your aubrieta plants with a lightweight all-purpose potting soil. A potting mix meant for cacti is also appropriate for aubrieta plants. Take care not to bury the foliage when potting up aubrieta. There are a few inches of brown stem beneath the foliage, and this is the working area of the plant when repotting. Lift the foliage, and carefully mound soil around the stems and roots to secure the plant in its place.
Pruning
Aubrieta can get a bit scraggly after blooming. Keep it tidy by trimming plants back after flowering. Use shears, and trim no more than half the plant's growth at any one time.
Propagating Aubrieta
You can divide aubrieta in early fall to increase your stock. Dig the plant, and tease the clump apart with your hands or a garden fork. Replant the divisions 12 inches apart.
Growing From Seeds
Aubrieta can be hard to find as nursery plants, so it is often grown from seed. Sow aubrieta seeds on top of sterile potting mix. The seeds need light for germination, so press seeds down but don't cover them. Keep seeds moist at about 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Germination will occur in two to three weeks.
Varieties of Aubrieta
'Rokey's Purple' is among the most commonly seen aubrieta in gardens; it features bright violet flowers.
'Doctor Mules Variegated' aubrieta offers a completely different look; it's important to know, however, that variegated types may revert to green, so prune away any all-green stems that form.
'Snowdrift' is a popular all-white cultivar.
Aubrieta vs. Creeping Phlox
The flowers and form of aubrieta and creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) are so similar as to be indistinguishable at first glance. Both plants grow as a creeping mat, spreading across the border's edge or trailing down walls. However, creeping phlox plants are more heat- and drought-tolerant than aubrieta, which may account for its preference in American gardens.
Landscape Uses
Spring-blooming aubrieta makes a perfect pocket plant for garden walls and rock gardens. The plants have a very small footprint and can establish a deep root system in the soil behind a retaining wall, while foliage and flowers can spread up to 18 inches or more, giving the appearance of a living wall. Aubrieta plants also provide good erosion control on hillsides and attract butterflies with their prolific spring flowers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月18日
Arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum) is a fairly small flowering shrub that is part of the honeysuckle family. It grows in an upright, rounded shape with stems of glossy green, oval foliage with toothed edges. The leaves are around 4 inches long. In the late spring, the shrub bears showy white flowers that stretch roughly 2 to 4 inches across. Blue-black fruits appear after the flowers and tend to attract birds and other wildlife. In the fall, the shrub’s foliage turns to shades of yellow, orange, and red. Arrowwood viburnum has a moderate growth rate. It can be planted in the spring or early fall.
Botanical Name Viburnum dentatum
Common Names Arrowwood viburnum, southern arrowwood, American arrowwood, roughish arrowwood
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–10 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 2–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Arrowwood Viburnum Care
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs are good for border plantings, as well as for use as hedges and screens. In ideal growing conditions and with excellent care the shrubs can reach 15 feet tall, but normally they are a bit smaller than that. They also are a good choice for planting in areas of your yard that are too wet for many other plants, as they can handle wet soil.
In terms of their care, plan to water whenever the soil begins to dry out. Fertilization will generally be an annual task, along with pruning. The shrubs can spread out of their bounds via suckers traveling through the soil. So cut back these suckers if you wish to prevent the shrub’s spread. Moreover, if you live in a climate that has considerable temperature fluctuations, a light layer of mulch around your shrub can help to keep its roots at a consistent temperature as well as to retain soil moisture.
Light
This shrub grows well in full sunlight to partial shade, meaning it needs at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days. In hot climates, shade from the strong afternoon sun is ideal. But too little sun can impede flowering.
Soil
Arrowwood viburnum prefers a loamy, well-drained soil. But it can tolerate a range of soil types, including clay soil. It likes an acidic soil pH.
Water
The shrub needs at least a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants have some drought tolerance. They also can handle occasional flooding. Keep young shrubs well watered, and continue to give established plants water whenever the soil begins to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
The shrubs prefer temperate conditions, though they have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. Make sure to water them well in very hot weather to minimize plant stress, and give them protection if your temperatures will be unseasonably cold to prevent foliage damage. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrubs.
Fertilizer
To encourage healthy growth and profuse flowering, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It also can be beneficial to mix compost into the soil around your shrub.
Common Pests/Diseases
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs don’t have serious issues with pests or diseases. However, they might be bothered by the viburnum leaf beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni). This beetle has become a major problem for viburnum shrubs in Europe and North America. Both the adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of the bushes. And if not controlled, the pest can defoliate your shrubs completely, resulting in their death. The female beetles lay their eggs on the undersides of the shrub stems. So if you notice dark spots there, it’s best to prune off those stems and dispose of them before the eggs hatch in the spring. Use organic pesticides only for serious infestations, as they also can kill beneficial insects.
Pruning
These shrubs don’t need extensive pruning. Right after the plant is done flowering, prune any stems necessary to maintain the shrub’s shape. But avoid taking off more than a third of the shrub's overall size. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub whenever you spot them.
Viburnum Varieties
There are several species and varieties of viburnum shrubs, including:
Burkwood viburnum: Burkwood viburnum grows to around 8 to 10 feet tall with a slightly smaller spread. Its glossy leaves and fragrant flowers are its main selling points.
Doublefile viburnum: Doublefile viburnum is a beetle-resistant bush and has showier flowers than arrowwood viburnum.
Korean spice viburnum: Not only is Korean spice viburnum beetle-resistant, but it is also very fragrant.
Mapleleaf viburnum: Mapleleaf viburnum sports unusual pinkish fall foliage and reaches around 4 to 6 feet tall and wide.
Snowball bush viburnum: This shrub's common name says it all. Gardeners grow snowball bush for the rounded shape of its white flower heads.
Botanical Name Viburnum dentatum
Common Names Arrowwood viburnum, southern arrowwood, American arrowwood, roughish arrowwood
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–10 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 2–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Arrowwood Viburnum Care
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs are good for border plantings, as well as for use as hedges and screens. In ideal growing conditions and with excellent care the shrubs can reach 15 feet tall, but normally they are a bit smaller than that. They also are a good choice for planting in areas of your yard that are too wet for many other plants, as they can handle wet soil.
In terms of their care, plan to water whenever the soil begins to dry out. Fertilization will generally be an annual task, along with pruning. The shrubs can spread out of their bounds via suckers traveling through the soil. So cut back these suckers if you wish to prevent the shrub’s spread. Moreover, if you live in a climate that has considerable temperature fluctuations, a light layer of mulch around your shrub can help to keep its roots at a consistent temperature as well as to retain soil moisture.
Light
This shrub grows well in full sunlight to partial shade, meaning it needs at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days. In hot climates, shade from the strong afternoon sun is ideal. But too little sun can impede flowering.
Soil
Arrowwood viburnum prefers a loamy, well-drained soil. But it can tolerate a range of soil types, including clay soil. It likes an acidic soil pH.
Water
The shrub needs at least a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants have some drought tolerance. They also can handle occasional flooding. Keep young shrubs well watered, and continue to give established plants water whenever the soil begins to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
The shrubs prefer temperate conditions, though they have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. Make sure to water them well in very hot weather to minimize plant stress, and give them protection if your temperatures will be unseasonably cold to prevent foliage damage. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrubs.
Fertilizer
To encourage healthy growth and profuse flowering, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It also can be beneficial to mix compost into the soil around your shrub.
Common Pests/Diseases
Arrowwood viburnum shrubs don’t have serious issues with pests or diseases. However, they might be bothered by the viburnum leaf beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni). This beetle has become a major problem for viburnum shrubs in Europe and North America. Both the adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of the bushes. And if not controlled, the pest can defoliate your shrubs completely, resulting in their death. The female beetles lay their eggs on the undersides of the shrub stems. So if you notice dark spots there, it’s best to prune off those stems and dispose of them before the eggs hatch in the spring. Use organic pesticides only for serious infestations, as they also can kill beneficial insects.
Pruning
These shrubs don’t need extensive pruning. Right after the plant is done flowering, prune any stems necessary to maintain the shrub’s shape. But avoid taking off more than a third of the shrub's overall size. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub whenever you spot them.
Viburnum Varieties
There are several species and varieties of viburnum shrubs, including:
Burkwood viburnum: Burkwood viburnum grows to around 8 to 10 feet tall with a slightly smaller spread. Its glossy leaves and fragrant flowers are its main selling points.
Doublefile viburnum: Doublefile viburnum is a beetle-resistant bush and has showier flowers than arrowwood viburnum.
Korean spice viburnum: Not only is Korean spice viburnum beetle-resistant, but it is also very fragrant.
Mapleleaf viburnum: Mapleleaf viburnum sports unusual pinkish fall foliage and reaches around 4 to 6 feet tall and wide.
Snowball bush viburnum: This shrub's common name says it all. Gardeners grow snowball bush for the rounded shape of its white flower heads.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月13日
Black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) is a deciduous shrub that is native to the eastern part of North America. It grows in an upright and fairly rounded shape. Its glossy, dark green leaves are around 1 to 3 inches long and either lanceolate or elliptical in shape. The foliage turns red to reddish-purple in the fall, providing striking color to the landscape before dropping off the plant for winter. Clusters of small five-petaled flowers appear in the spring, and purplish-black to black fruits that are around the size of blueberries appear in the late summer to fall. Black chokeberry has a slow to moderate growth rate and can be planted in the fall or spring.
Botanical Name Aronia melanocarpa
Common Names Black chokeberry, aronia berry, aronia, chokeberry
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 3–6 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zone 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Black Chokeberry Care
This shrub is highly adaptable and hardy. It can grow well in both moist and dry locations. Plus, ideally the soil pH should be acidic, but it can also grow in alkaline soil. And while it prefers soil that drains well, it is also tolerant of boggy soil. You can take advantage of the adaptability of black chokeberry when deciding how to use it in the landscape. For example, its tolerance of boggy soil makes it an excellent choice for wet areas where many other plants refuse to grow.
Because black chokeberry is so tolerant to many different growing conditions, it also tends to readily spread in the landscape. If you don't want multiple shrubs forming a thicket, you will have to monitor for and remove suckers around the base of the plant from which new plants with grow. Other than that, maintenance is very low for this shrub, as it will mostly take care of itself. It also generally doesn't have any major problems with pests or diseases. Plan to water during dry spells and prune annually to maintain its shape.
Light
You can plant a black chokeberry shrub in either full sun or partial shade. But you will get the best flowering and fruiting in locations with full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. In too much shade, the shrub will likely only minimally flower and fruit, and it will produce weak growth that ultimately could kill the plant.
Soil
A virtue of this shrub is how adaptable it is to a wide range of soils. It can tolerate both sandy and clay soil, though it prefers to grow in something in between those two. It also can handle some salt in the soil, making it a good option for a site near roadways that use road salt.
Water
Black chokeberry has moderate water needs. It can tolerate both the occasional drought and occasional flooding. But during prolonged dry spells and during particularly hot weather, it is ideal to give your shrub some water.
Temperature and Humidity
Black chokeberry has good tolerance for both the cold and hot temperatures of its growing zones. It flowers fairly late in the spring to avoid frost. But if there happens to be a late frost, this can damage the blooms and affect later fruiting for that growing season. So if your area does expect frost when your shrub is in bloom, consider covering the shrub with a sheet to protect it. Moreover, humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrub as long as there is good air circulation around the foliage to prevent fungal diseases.
Fertilizer
Black chokeberry likely won't need supplemental fertilization unless you have nutrient-deficient soil. You can mix compost into the soil when you plant your shrub to give its growth a boost. Then, each spring apply a light layer of compost for continued healthy growth.
Black Chokeberry Varieties
There are several varieties of black chokeberry that vary slightly in appearance, including:
‘Autumn Magic’: This shrub has a more compact growth habit than the main species plant but with large clusters of fruit.
‘Iroquois Beauty’: This variety also has a compact growth habit and features particularly vivid fall color.
‘Viking’: This variety is known for its large black fruit and also sports vivid fall color.
‘McKenzie’: This is a tall variety that can grow up to 12 feet.
Pruning
Besides removing suckers around the base of the shrub as needed to prevent unwanted new shrubs from growing, pruning will not be an extensive chore for the black chokeberry shrub. After the plant is done flowering in the spring, lightly prune the stems to shape the shrub to your liking. Also, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub as you spot them.
Botanical Name Aronia melanocarpa
Common Names Black chokeberry, aronia berry, aronia, chokeberry
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 3–6 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zone 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Black Chokeberry Care
This shrub is highly adaptable and hardy. It can grow well in both moist and dry locations. Plus, ideally the soil pH should be acidic, but it can also grow in alkaline soil. And while it prefers soil that drains well, it is also tolerant of boggy soil. You can take advantage of the adaptability of black chokeberry when deciding how to use it in the landscape. For example, its tolerance of boggy soil makes it an excellent choice for wet areas where many other plants refuse to grow.
Because black chokeberry is so tolerant to many different growing conditions, it also tends to readily spread in the landscape. If you don't want multiple shrubs forming a thicket, you will have to monitor for and remove suckers around the base of the plant from which new plants with grow. Other than that, maintenance is very low for this shrub, as it will mostly take care of itself. It also generally doesn't have any major problems with pests or diseases. Plan to water during dry spells and prune annually to maintain its shape.
Light
You can plant a black chokeberry shrub in either full sun or partial shade. But you will get the best flowering and fruiting in locations with full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. In too much shade, the shrub will likely only minimally flower and fruit, and it will produce weak growth that ultimately could kill the plant.
Soil
A virtue of this shrub is how adaptable it is to a wide range of soils. It can tolerate both sandy and clay soil, though it prefers to grow in something in between those two. It also can handle some salt in the soil, making it a good option for a site near roadways that use road salt.
Water
Black chokeberry has moderate water needs. It can tolerate both the occasional drought and occasional flooding. But during prolonged dry spells and during particularly hot weather, it is ideal to give your shrub some water.
Temperature and Humidity
Black chokeberry has good tolerance for both the cold and hot temperatures of its growing zones. It flowers fairly late in the spring to avoid frost. But if there happens to be a late frost, this can damage the blooms and affect later fruiting for that growing season. So if your area does expect frost when your shrub is in bloom, consider covering the shrub with a sheet to protect it. Moreover, humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrub as long as there is good air circulation around the foliage to prevent fungal diseases.
Fertilizer
Black chokeberry likely won't need supplemental fertilization unless you have nutrient-deficient soil. You can mix compost into the soil when you plant your shrub to give its growth a boost. Then, each spring apply a light layer of compost for continued healthy growth.
Black Chokeberry Varieties
There are several varieties of black chokeberry that vary slightly in appearance, including:
‘Autumn Magic’: This shrub has a more compact growth habit than the main species plant but with large clusters of fruit.
‘Iroquois Beauty’: This variety also has a compact growth habit and features particularly vivid fall color.
‘Viking’: This variety is known for its large black fruit and also sports vivid fall color.
‘McKenzie’: This is a tall variety that can grow up to 12 feet.
Pruning
Besides removing suckers around the base of the shrub as needed to prevent unwanted new shrubs from growing, pruning will not be an extensive chore for the black chokeberry shrub. After the plant is done flowering in the spring, lightly prune the stems to shape the shrub to your liking. Also, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub as you spot them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月29日
The African spear plant (Sansevieria cylindrica), also known as the cylindrical snake plant, is a succulent that consists of upright, gray-green, subtly striped leaves. The leaves are cylindrical in shape but narrow to a point at their tips. When grown in optimal conditions, African spear plants might send up a long flower spike from their center that's full of tiny, delicate, white blooms. They are best planted at the start of the growing season in the spring, and they’re generally a slow-growing succulent.
Botanical Name Sansevieria cylindrica
Common Names African spear plant, cylindrical snake plant, spear sansevieria
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Sporadic
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets and humans
African Spear Plant Care
African spear plants are generally very low maintenance. They will survive if you forget to water or feed them, and they can thrive being root-bound in a pot. They are hardy plants that don’t typically have problems with diseases or pests, and they’re not overly picky about their growing conditions. In fact, you are more likely to put too much into their care and end up overwatering or overfeeding them than you are to harm them with neglect. During the growing season (spring to fall) they will appreciate semiregular watering and occasional fertilizing. And over the winter plan to avoid fertilization and water minimally. Get this routine right, and that's the majority of the care that goes into keeping an African spear plant happy and healthy.
You typically won’t have any pruning to do on this plant, but you can remove leaves that have yellowed or otherwise discolored for aesthetic purposes. Simply cut them at their base with sterilized pruning shears. You also can remove plant offshoots that pop up from the soil to start new plants. Wait until these baby plants are at least 6 inches high before cutting them off from the main plant and planting them separately.
If you’re growing your plant in a container, you likely won’t have to repot it more than every few years once the roots start noticeably growing out of the pot. Move it just to one container size up, as its roots still will like being a little cramped. A heavy pot that is shallow and wide is best, as it will anchor the weight of the leaves; otherwise, your plant might easily tip over. Also, be sure the pot has ample drainage holes.
Light
These plants can tolerate somewhat low light conditions, but they prefer some full sunlight along with bright filtered light. Outdoors they will appreciate morning sun but should be protected from direct hot afternoon sun. Indoors they like a bright north-facing window. Too strong of light can cause the leaves to yellow around the edges, and too little light can result in subpar leaf growth.
Soil
Like most succulents, these plants prefer a sandy soil that has excellent drainage and doesn’t retain water. A potting mix made especially for succulents is ideal.
Water
African spear plants can survive long periods of drought. And being left in soggy soil or standing water for too long can cause the roots to rot. Let the soil dry out between waterings, and then water the plant deeply. Watering every week to every other week is generally enough. If you’re growing your plant in a container, be sure to empty the saucer of any excess water that comes through the drainage holes. During the winter months, put a little more time between your waterings than you did during the growing season. Watering roughly once a month should be fine.
Temperature and Humidity
These succulents grow naturally in hot, dry climates, and cold temperatures can damage or kill them. Make sure they remain in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. That includes protecting them from cool drafts, such as those from air conditioners. Humidity usually isn’t an issue as long as the soil isn’t saturated.
Fertilizer
African spear plants can live in lean soil, and they don’t require much fertilizer. Feed them with a succulent fertilizer diluted to half strength monthly from spring to fall. During the winter no fertilization is necessary.
Is the African Spear Plant Toxic?
Like other members of the Sansevieria genus, all parts of African spear plants are toxic to pets and people when ingested. The reaction is usually mild, but it can cause severe symptoms in small animals or children who ingest a lot of the plant.
Symptoms of Poisoning
For both pets and people, symptoms of toxicity generally involve gastrointestinal issues, most commonly nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. If you suspect poisoning, contact a medical professional as soon as possible for treatment instructions.
African Spear Plant Varieties
There are just a few varieties of African spear plants available, including:
Sansevieria cylindrica 'Spaghetti’: This cultivar features especially thin leaves.
Sansevieria cylindrica ‘Skyline’: This cultivar sports large, erect leaves.
Sansevieria cylindrica ‘Patula’: This plant’s leaves grow outward and bend down more than most other varieties.
Botanical Name Sansevieria cylindrica
Common Names African spear plant, cylindrical snake plant, spear sansevieria
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Sporadic
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets and humans
African Spear Plant Care
African spear plants are generally very low maintenance. They will survive if you forget to water or feed them, and they can thrive being root-bound in a pot. They are hardy plants that don’t typically have problems with diseases or pests, and they’re not overly picky about their growing conditions. In fact, you are more likely to put too much into their care and end up overwatering or overfeeding them than you are to harm them with neglect. During the growing season (spring to fall) they will appreciate semiregular watering and occasional fertilizing. And over the winter plan to avoid fertilization and water minimally. Get this routine right, and that's the majority of the care that goes into keeping an African spear plant happy and healthy.
You typically won’t have any pruning to do on this plant, but you can remove leaves that have yellowed or otherwise discolored for aesthetic purposes. Simply cut them at their base with sterilized pruning shears. You also can remove plant offshoots that pop up from the soil to start new plants. Wait until these baby plants are at least 6 inches high before cutting them off from the main plant and planting them separately.
If you’re growing your plant in a container, you likely won’t have to repot it more than every few years once the roots start noticeably growing out of the pot. Move it just to one container size up, as its roots still will like being a little cramped. A heavy pot that is shallow and wide is best, as it will anchor the weight of the leaves; otherwise, your plant might easily tip over. Also, be sure the pot has ample drainage holes.
Light
These plants can tolerate somewhat low light conditions, but they prefer some full sunlight along with bright filtered light. Outdoors they will appreciate morning sun but should be protected from direct hot afternoon sun. Indoors they like a bright north-facing window. Too strong of light can cause the leaves to yellow around the edges, and too little light can result in subpar leaf growth.
Soil
Like most succulents, these plants prefer a sandy soil that has excellent drainage and doesn’t retain water. A potting mix made especially for succulents is ideal.
Water
African spear plants can survive long periods of drought. And being left in soggy soil or standing water for too long can cause the roots to rot. Let the soil dry out between waterings, and then water the plant deeply. Watering every week to every other week is generally enough. If you’re growing your plant in a container, be sure to empty the saucer of any excess water that comes through the drainage holes. During the winter months, put a little more time between your waterings than you did during the growing season. Watering roughly once a month should be fine.
Temperature and Humidity
These succulents grow naturally in hot, dry climates, and cold temperatures can damage or kill them. Make sure they remain in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. That includes protecting them from cool drafts, such as those from air conditioners. Humidity usually isn’t an issue as long as the soil isn’t saturated.
Fertilizer
African spear plants can live in lean soil, and they don’t require much fertilizer. Feed them with a succulent fertilizer diluted to half strength monthly from spring to fall. During the winter no fertilization is necessary.
Is the African Spear Plant Toxic?
Like other members of the Sansevieria genus, all parts of African spear plants are toxic to pets and people when ingested. The reaction is usually mild, but it can cause severe symptoms in small animals or children who ingest a lot of the plant.
Symptoms of Poisoning
For both pets and people, symptoms of toxicity generally involve gastrointestinal issues, most commonly nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. If you suspect poisoning, contact a medical professional as soon as possible for treatment instructions.
African Spear Plant Varieties
There are just a few varieties of African spear plants available, including:
Sansevieria cylindrica 'Spaghetti’: This cultivar features especially thin leaves.
Sansevieria cylindrica ‘Skyline’: This cultivar sports large, erect leaves.
Sansevieria cylindrica ‘Patula’: This plant’s leaves grow outward and bend down more than most other varieties.
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文章
莹723
2021年02月18日
The rubber tree is a great starter plant for anyone who's not known for having a green thumb. These trees have glossy, leathery leaves and an attractive upright form, which makes a nice addition to any room with sufficient light. In the jungles of India and Malaysia, this plant can grow up to 100 feet tall. But indoors, a rubber tree typically tops out at 6 to 10 feet tall.
They’re fast growers with the right conditions and can last 15 years or more with proper care. Like the snake plant and spider plant, which are also low-maintenance plants, rubber trees look good with little effort from you!
Here's what else you need to know about this old favorite.
1.What kinds of rubber trees can I grow?
Rubber tree, also known by its scientific name 'Ficus elastica' is available in many different varieties. ‘Decora’ has the classic dark green leaves with white ribs. ‘Doescheri’ is a pretty variegated variety. ‘Rubra’ has pretty burgundy leaves. But no matter which one you choose, they all need similar care.
2.Where can I buy a rubber tree?
Because it’s an old favorite, you’ll find rubber trees at most nurseries, big box stores, and online retailers. If shopping in person, don't buy plants without lower leaves, which drop off if it’s been overwatered or otherwise stressed. Also, choose one that is glossy and upright, not falling over. They're relatively inexpensive compared to other houseplants of similar size, such as the fiddleleaf fig or the ficus tree, also called weeping fig.
3.Rubber trees need bright light.
Rubber trees like bright light, although they can adjust to lower light levels. They don’t like sudden drops in temperature, so don’t put them too close to drafty windows. If your room seems dark, get a grow light to provide overhead light so the plant can grow upright. Otherwise, they tend to get leggy as they stretch toward the light.
It's not necessary but if you decide to put them outdoors in the summer, keep them out of direct sunlight. Bring them indoors again before a frost. In USDA Hardiness zones 10 and 11 (find your zone here), you can leave your plants outdoors unless freezing weather is forecast.
4.It's easy to care for your rubber tree.
The great news is that rubber trees don't need a lot of fussing over. Water your rubber tree when the soil is slightly dry to the touch. Watering too often may cause leaf yellowing. Dump out the saucer beneath the pot so there's no standing water. If you like, feed your rubber tree with a general-purpose fertilizer at 1/4 to 1/2 strength a few times a year, especially during active growth in spring and summer. Or not! It's really not necessary but certainly won't hurt.
5.Is rubber tree safe around pets?
The sticky sap may irritate a pet's skin or tummy, so it’s best to keep this plant away from curious pets who like to nibble on houseplants. To keep your rubber tree clean and shiny, dust the broad leaves with a damp rag occasionally. Rubber trees rarely are affected by bugs or diseases, so they’re the perfect plant for you to sit back and enjoy without a lot of fussing.
They’re fast growers with the right conditions and can last 15 years or more with proper care. Like the snake plant and spider plant, which are also low-maintenance plants, rubber trees look good with little effort from you!
Here's what else you need to know about this old favorite.
1.What kinds of rubber trees can I grow?
Rubber tree, also known by its scientific name 'Ficus elastica' is available in many different varieties. ‘Decora’ has the classic dark green leaves with white ribs. ‘Doescheri’ is a pretty variegated variety. ‘Rubra’ has pretty burgundy leaves. But no matter which one you choose, they all need similar care.
2.Where can I buy a rubber tree?
Because it’s an old favorite, you’ll find rubber trees at most nurseries, big box stores, and online retailers. If shopping in person, don't buy plants without lower leaves, which drop off if it’s been overwatered or otherwise stressed. Also, choose one that is glossy and upright, not falling over. They're relatively inexpensive compared to other houseplants of similar size, such as the fiddleleaf fig or the ficus tree, also called weeping fig.
3.Rubber trees need bright light.
Rubber trees like bright light, although they can adjust to lower light levels. They don’t like sudden drops in temperature, so don’t put them too close to drafty windows. If your room seems dark, get a grow light to provide overhead light so the plant can grow upright. Otherwise, they tend to get leggy as they stretch toward the light.
It's not necessary but if you decide to put them outdoors in the summer, keep them out of direct sunlight. Bring them indoors again before a frost. In USDA Hardiness zones 10 and 11 (find your zone here), you can leave your plants outdoors unless freezing weather is forecast.
4.It's easy to care for your rubber tree.
The great news is that rubber trees don't need a lot of fussing over. Water your rubber tree when the soil is slightly dry to the touch. Watering too often may cause leaf yellowing. Dump out the saucer beneath the pot so there's no standing water. If you like, feed your rubber tree with a general-purpose fertilizer at 1/4 to 1/2 strength a few times a year, especially during active growth in spring and summer. Or not! It's really not necessary but certainly won't hurt.
5.Is rubber tree safe around pets?
The sticky sap may irritate a pet's skin or tummy, so it’s best to keep this plant away from curious pets who like to nibble on houseplants. To keep your rubber tree clean and shiny, dust the broad leaves with a damp rag occasionally. Rubber trees rarely are affected by bugs or diseases, so they’re the perfect plant for you to sit back and enjoy without a lot of fussing.
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莹723
2021年02月01日
Do you want a little good luck? Legend says that the money tree, also known as Pachira aquatica, will bring you luck, positive energy, and financial success. Whether or not you believe the folklore, the money tree's upright form and glossy green leaves look good in any room of your house. One study even showed it reduced indoor volatile organic compounds!
These popular houseplants are native to Central and South America and are often sold with a braided trunk or as a bonsai. In the wild, it’s a wetland tree. "It’s a good choice for new plant parents because it’s not finicky," and it’s actually pretty resilient."
Here’s how to care for your brand new money tree plant.
1.Your money tree prefers bright light.
To look its best, money trees need bright light, but they'll adapt to moderate light okay, too. However, if you try to grow it in light that’s way too dim, the plant will stretch toward the light and become, well, rather ugly. In order to keep money tree growing in an upright position, keep it in a south or west-facing window. Rotate the pot a little once a week to maintain vertical growth. Or use an LED grow light if you don’t have the right light conditions.
2.How do I care for my money tree?
Your money tree is tropical, so it needs temperatures between 65 to 80 degrees. It doesn't like cold, so keep it away from drafty windows. Let it dry out a little between waterings. Then water until it runs out of the drainage holes, dumping out the overflow from the saucer. If you like, feed it an all-purpose fertilizer in spring and summer when the plant is actively growing, but not in winter when it’s resting like most other plants.
3.Are money trees safe around pets?
It’s not currently on the ASPCA’s toxic plant list for pets. But any plant can cause stomach upset and vomiting if your pet nibbles on it, so keep an eye on your cats and dogs with all your indoor plants and indoor trees.
4.You can take your money tree outdoors in summer.
But you don't have to move it anywhere if it’s happy indoors, says Pleasant. Taking your money tree outdoors doesn’t actually do anything for it if it’s already healthy, and it could introduce pests to the plant. On the other hand, if you do decide to take it outside, keep it in dappled sunlight so the leaves don’t become scorched. Bring it back indoors before nights dip into the 50s. And to be extra-safe, consider treating the plant with neem oil before bringing it inside to prevent any potential hitchhikers from coming indoors with it and infesting the rest of your indoor plants.
These popular houseplants are native to Central and South America and are often sold with a braided trunk or as a bonsai. In the wild, it’s a wetland tree. "It’s a good choice for new plant parents because it’s not finicky," and it’s actually pretty resilient."
Here’s how to care for your brand new money tree plant.
1.Your money tree prefers bright light.
To look its best, money trees need bright light, but they'll adapt to moderate light okay, too. However, if you try to grow it in light that’s way too dim, the plant will stretch toward the light and become, well, rather ugly. In order to keep money tree growing in an upright position, keep it in a south or west-facing window. Rotate the pot a little once a week to maintain vertical growth. Or use an LED grow light if you don’t have the right light conditions.
2.How do I care for my money tree?
Your money tree is tropical, so it needs temperatures between 65 to 80 degrees. It doesn't like cold, so keep it away from drafty windows. Let it dry out a little between waterings. Then water until it runs out of the drainage holes, dumping out the overflow from the saucer. If you like, feed it an all-purpose fertilizer in spring and summer when the plant is actively growing, but not in winter when it’s resting like most other plants.
3.Are money trees safe around pets?
It’s not currently on the ASPCA’s toxic plant list for pets. But any plant can cause stomach upset and vomiting if your pet nibbles on it, so keep an eye on your cats and dogs with all your indoor plants and indoor trees.
4.You can take your money tree outdoors in summer.
But you don't have to move it anywhere if it’s happy indoors, says Pleasant. Taking your money tree outdoors doesn’t actually do anything for it if it’s already healthy, and it could introduce pests to the plant. On the other hand, if you do decide to take it outside, keep it in dappled sunlight so the leaves don’t become scorched. Bring it back indoors before nights dip into the 50s. And to be extra-safe, consider treating the plant with neem oil before bringing it inside to prevent any potential hitchhikers from coming indoors with it and infesting the rest of your indoor plants.
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文章
莹723
2021年01月20日
Poison Garden, the deadliest garden in the world. This is one garden where you won't want to pick any flowers—unless you have a death wish.
Located at Alnwick Castle in Northumberland, England, this lush, green gated patch is home to over 95 plants, all of which can kill you.
"We obviously have to maintain the garden, so we have to tend to the plants, and when we do that we have to be very careful of the way we operate, so we have to cover some of our skin when we deal with particularly dangerous plants," head gardener Trevor Jones said.
What's the story behind the Poison Garden, which opened in 2005? After visiting a similar one in Padua, Italy built by the Medici family, the Duchess of Northumberland decided that she wanted to start her own, since it was more interesting than your standard herb garden.
Here are some of the plants you would find in the Poison Garden, if you dared to enter:
1.GIANT HOGWEED
This plant can grow up to 14 feet or more, and can cause severe skin irritation, painful blistering, permanent scarring and even blindness.
2.ACONTIUM
Beautiful, right? But beware. These poisonous flowers were once used as poisonous arrows by the Aleuts of Alaska's Aleutian Islands for hunting whales. They also have a long history of killing enemies in battle by being used on spears and arrows.
3.ARUM MACULATUM
These flowers have needle-shaped crystals which irritate the skin, mouth, tongue and throat. They have the ability to swell the throat, making it hard to breathe and causing burning pain and an upset stomach. This plant also acts as an insect trap, with its fecal odor (charming!) and warm temperatures.
4.DATURA FLOWERS
These plants are known for causing delirious states and death.
So, if you're planning to visit Alnwick Castle (fun fact: it served as the setting for Hogwarts in the first two Harry Potter films) you can enter the Poison Garden if you dare—just be sure not to touch, taste, or even smell the plants (yes, visitors have fainted from inhaling toxic fumes before). "People think we're being overdramatic when we talk about not smelling the plants, but I've seen the health and safety reports," the Duchess said.
Located at Alnwick Castle in Northumberland, England, this lush, green gated patch is home to over 95 plants, all of which can kill you.
"We obviously have to maintain the garden, so we have to tend to the plants, and when we do that we have to be very careful of the way we operate, so we have to cover some of our skin when we deal with particularly dangerous plants," head gardener Trevor Jones said.
What's the story behind the Poison Garden, which opened in 2005? After visiting a similar one in Padua, Italy built by the Medici family, the Duchess of Northumberland decided that she wanted to start her own, since it was more interesting than your standard herb garden.
Here are some of the plants you would find in the Poison Garden, if you dared to enter:
1.GIANT HOGWEED
This plant can grow up to 14 feet or more, and can cause severe skin irritation, painful blistering, permanent scarring and even blindness.
2.ACONTIUM
Beautiful, right? But beware. These poisonous flowers were once used as poisonous arrows by the Aleuts of Alaska's Aleutian Islands for hunting whales. They also have a long history of killing enemies in battle by being used on spears and arrows.
3.ARUM MACULATUM
These flowers have needle-shaped crystals which irritate the skin, mouth, tongue and throat. They have the ability to swell the throat, making it hard to breathe and causing burning pain and an upset stomach. This plant also acts as an insect trap, with its fecal odor (charming!) and warm temperatures.
4.DATURA FLOWERS
These plants are known for causing delirious states and death.
So, if you're planning to visit Alnwick Castle (fun fact: it served as the setting for Hogwarts in the first two Harry Potter films) you can enter the Poison Garden if you dare—just be sure not to touch, taste, or even smell the plants (yes, visitors have fainted from inhaling toxic fumes before). "People think we're being overdramatic when we talk about not smelling the plants, but I've seen the health and safety reports," the Duchess said.
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文章
莹723
2020年11月30日
Are your green fingers itching in midwinter? Good news for you! There are some flower seeds you could sow, and you may be rewarded with early blooms.
Shorter daylight hours provide little light for your seedlings. Sowing in a bright spot without too much direct sunlight can damage seedlings.
Most seeds sown indoors over winter will benefit from the warmth of a heated propagator or warm windowsill, so provide this where possible.
Discover five of the best flowers to sow in December, below.
1——Sweet peas
Sweet peas can be sown indoors in December, ideally in containers, such as cardboard tubes, that can be planted out in the soil, minimising root disturbance.
2——Laurentia
Laurentia are bushy, half-hardy annuals, with star-shaped, scented flowers. The seeds can be sown under glass in winter, in a bright spot. A heated propagator will help to warm the soil when sowing.
3——Pelargoniums
Pelargoniums are often propagated by taking cuttings, but why not try growing them from seed, too? Ideally, surface sow in a heated propagator, in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
4——Hardy cyclamens
Hardy cyclamens like Cyclamen coum and Cyclamen hederifolium can be sown in December. Before sowing, soak the seeds overnight, then sow straight after in small pots. Keep the pots at a temperature of 13-16°C.
5——Snapdragons
Though usually grown as annuals or biennials, snapdragons are actually short-lived perennials. They’re easy to grow, and can be sown under glass in December, to flower from June onwards.
Shorter daylight hours provide little light for your seedlings. Sowing in a bright spot without too much direct sunlight can damage seedlings.
Most seeds sown indoors over winter will benefit from the warmth of a heated propagator or warm windowsill, so provide this where possible.
Discover five of the best flowers to sow in December, below.
1——Sweet peas
Sweet peas can be sown indoors in December, ideally in containers, such as cardboard tubes, that can be planted out in the soil, minimising root disturbance.
2——Laurentia
Laurentia are bushy, half-hardy annuals, with star-shaped, scented flowers. The seeds can be sown under glass in winter, in a bright spot. A heated propagator will help to warm the soil when sowing.
3——Pelargoniums
Pelargoniums are often propagated by taking cuttings, but why not try growing them from seed, too? Ideally, surface sow in a heated propagator, in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
4——Hardy cyclamens
Hardy cyclamens like Cyclamen coum and Cyclamen hederifolium can be sown in December. Before sowing, soak the seeds overnight, then sow straight after in small pots. Keep the pots at a temperature of 13-16°C.
5——Snapdragons
Though usually grown as annuals or biennials, snapdragons are actually short-lived perennials. They’re easy to grow, and can be sown under glass in December, to flower from June onwards.
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文章
莹723
2020年09月18日
Summer may go away, but your flowerbeds won’t! Flex your green thumb this autumn with beautiful flowers and plants to bring vibrant colors everyday. You’ll love fall decorations like wreaths, garlands, pumpkins, gourds and fresh flowers.Don’t retire your gardening tools now, because these fall blooms need to make an appearance outside your home and you'll reap the rewards of your planting in cold months.
1-Aster
These daisy-like flowers love lots of sunlight and water. They'll be blooming until almost winter.
Zones: 3-8
2-Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemums bloom in tons of different shapes, sizes, and colors. They're perfect for container gardening—so fear not if you don't have room for a big garden.
Zones: 5-9
3-Parsley
Grow this popular herb and use it as a garnish for any dish.
Zones: 4-9
4-Winter Pansies
As evidenced by the name, winter pansies can hold their own once temps start to drop—but time your planting accordingly. These florals need to be in the soil with time to spare before the weather hits 45 degrees F or below.
Zones: 6 and above
5-Rosemary
Take this amazing herb off your fall holiday grocery list! You can plant the freshest rosemary it in your own backyard.
Zones: 9-11 as perennials, 1-8 as annuals
6-Cyclamen Hederifolium
A popular hardy perennial, cyclamen hederifolium blooms in the fall.
Zones: 5-9
7-Purple Fountain Grass
This grass is a perfect pairing for other fall flowers like pansies, rudbeckia and flowering kale. Put it in the back of the garden to show off shorter stems.
Zones: 1-8
8-Ornamental Kale
Keep this kale well-watered if you want to see vibrant purple and green hues this fall.
Zones: 6-11
9-Witch Hazel
Growing this shrub is practically maintenance-free, and its bark extract is a well-known healing remedy for skin.
Zones: 5-8
10-Ornamental Peppers
These plants embody all the colors of fall in one punch. Not for human consumption, these fiery little peppers add a bit of flare to your fall garden.
Zones: 9-11
1-Aster
These daisy-like flowers love lots of sunlight and water. They'll be blooming until almost winter.
Zones: 3-8
2-Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemums bloom in tons of different shapes, sizes, and colors. They're perfect for container gardening—so fear not if you don't have room for a big garden.
Zones: 5-9
3-Parsley
Grow this popular herb and use it as a garnish for any dish.
Zones: 4-9
4-Winter Pansies
As evidenced by the name, winter pansies can hold their own once temps start to drop—but time your planting accordingly. These florals need to be in the soil with time to spare before the weather hits 45 degrees F or below.
Zones: 6 and above
5-Rosemary
Take this amazing herb off your fall holiday grocery list! You can plant the freshest rosemary it in your own backyard.
Zones: 9-11 as perennials, 1-8 as annuals
6-Cyclamen Hederifolium
A popular hardy perennial, cyclamen hederifolium blooms in the fall.
Zones: 5-9
7-Purple Fountain Grass
This grass is a perfect pairing for other fall flowers like pansies, rudbeckia and flowering kale. Put it in the back of the garden to show off shorter stems.
Zones: 1-8
8-Ornamental Kale
Keep this kale well-watered if you want to see vibrant purple and green hues this fall.
Zones: 6-11
9-Witch Hazel
Growing this shrub is practically maintenance-free, and its bark extract is a well-known healing remedy for skin.
Zones: 5-8
10-Ornamental Peppers
These plants embody all the colors of fall in one punch. Not for human consumption, these fiery little peppers add a bit of flare to your fall garden.
Zones: 9-11
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