文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Fragrant lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) supplies year-round garden interest, with aromatic flowers in summer and gray-green evergreen foliage. The small shrubs grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, where they thrive with very little maintenance beyond pruning. The right time and method for pruning depends on the age of the plant and the type of trim it needs.
Spring Pruning
New plants need to be pruned in spring when new green growth has appeared. Spring pruning prevents flowering but encourages branching, allowing the new lavender to develop strong roots and a full framework of branches. Before pruning, wipe the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them, and then disinfect the shears each time you begin pruning a new plant. Cut back the stem tips by 2 to 3 inches, lightly shaping to maintain an even, rounded shape.
Deadheading and Harvest
Lavender may flower a second time if you prune off the old flowers after the first flush of summer blooms. Prune off the flowers a second time in late summer if the plant flowers again. Deadhead after the flowers open and begin to wilt if you want lavender blooms in the garden. For harvesting and drying, cut off the flowers when only two or three buds on the flower spikes have opened. Trim out the spikes with disinfected shears, cutting the stem so the cut end is inside the main bush and not visible. For harvesting, tie the harvested spikes together in bundles and hang them in a dark, dry area until the buds are completely dry.
Summer Shaping
Main pruning occurs in summer, after the flower harvest. Cut back up to one-third of the leafy section of the stems, shaping the lavender into an evenly rounded mound as you prune. Avoid cutting into the woody stem bases. Lavender will not regrow from the lower stem sections, so cutting into wood will leave bare spots in the bush and weaken the lavender. Although summer, after the plant flowers, is the best time to prune, you can prune into late summer or early fall. However, avoid pruning in late fall because frost can damage the new growth encouraged by pruning.
Rejuvenating Woody Plants
Woody, overgrown lavender plants develop sparse foliage and may fall open, or split. In most cases replacement is the best option, but you may be able to rejuvenate the lavender with careful pruning. Prune for rejuvenation in spring when new growth begins showing on the stems. Cut back all the green stems to within 1 inch of the woody portion at the base, but don't remove the green completely. The lavender may produce fuller growth in response.
Spring Pruning
New plants need to be pruned in spring when new green growth has appeared. Spring pruning prevents flowering but encourages branching, allowing the new lavender to develop strong roots and a full framework of branches. Before pruning, wipe the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them, and then disinfect the shears each time you begin pruning a new plant. Cut back the stem tips by 2 to 3 inches, lightly shaping to maintain an even, rounded shape.
Deadheading and Harvest
Lavender may flower a second time if you prune off the old flowers after the first flush of summer blooms. Prune off the flowers a second time in late summer if the plant flowers again. Deadhead after the flowers open and begin to wilt if you want lavender blooms in the garden. For harvesting and drying, cut off the flowers when only two or three buds on the flower spikes have opened. Trim out the spikes with disinfected shears, cutting the stem so the cut end is inside the main bush and not visible. For harvesting, tie the harvested spikes together in bundles and hang them in a dark, dry area until the buds are completely dry.
Summer Shaping
Main pruning occurs in summer, after the flower harvest. Cut back up to one-third of the leafy section of the stems, shaping the lavender into an evenly rounded mound as you prune. Avoid cutting into the woody stem bases. Lavender will not regrow from the lower stem sections, so cutting into wood will leave bare spots in the bush and weaken the lavender. Although summer, after the plant flowers, is the best time to prune, you can prune into late summer or early fall. However, avoid pruning in late fall because frost can damage the new growth encouraged by pruning.
Rejuvenating Woody Plants
Woody, overgrown lavender plants develop sparse foliage and may fall open, or split. In most cases replacement is the best option, but you may be able to rejuvenate the lavender with careful pruning. Prune for rejuvenation in spring when new growth begins showing on the stems. Cut back all the green stems to within 1 inch of the woody portion at the base, but don't remove the green completely. The lavender may produce fuller growth in response.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Hostas--also called plaintain lilies--are low-growing foliage plants with large, showy leaves that can range in color from deep green through chartreuse into deep blue, with white, lavender or purple blooms in August. There are also variegated cultivars featuring cream, white or yellow centers or borders. Hostas excel as ground cover and add texture and interest to shaded sections of landscapes. Hostas can perform well in Texas as long as they are of the proper cultivar and don't get too much scorching summer sun.
Step 1
Choose vigorous, healthy hostas cultivars with the best chances for growing well in Texas. According to the Texas A and M University Extension, good hostas varieties for Texas gardeners include the green-leafed lancifolia and royal standard cultivars, the blue-leafed blue cadet and blue angel types and the variegated sugar and cream and so sweet varieties. Examine the plant before purchase to make sure it is free of pests and diseases.
Step 2
Choose a planting site in shade or partial sun with afternoon shade and make sure it has rich, moist soil. For more specific recommendations on sunlight, check the cultivar; blue-leaf hostas require more shade than green-leaf varieties, and too much bright sun will bleach out the leaf coloration of the yellow cultivars.
Step 3
Prepare the garden bed in the spring by using a pitchfork to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mixing in a 2 to 4-inch layer of compost.
Step 4
Dig a planting hole twice the size of the container the hosta was sold in, and place the hosta in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Backfill with garden soil and firmly tamp the soil into place but don't press so hard that the soil becomes compacted. Space hostas 36 inches apart if planting more than one. Water your hostas well after planting, and continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist.
Step 5
Apply a 2 1/2-inch layer of mulch to protect the roots, conserve moisture and provide a physical barrier against disease.
Step 6
Fertilize hostas in early spring with a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer in a 10-10-10 NPK formulation. According to the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension, the fertilizer should be applied at a rate of 1/2 pound per 100 square feet.
Step 7
Watch your hostas closely for damage from slugs, to which they are very susceptible. At the first sign of damage use slug bait or make a beer trap by leaving a saucer of beer by the hostas at night; slugs will crawl in and drown.
Step 1
Choose vigorous, healthy hostas cultivars with the best chances for growing well in Texas. According to the Texas A and M University Extension, good hostas varieties for Texas gardeners include the green-leafed lancifolia and royal standard cultivars, the blue-leafed blue cadet and blue angel types and the variegated sugar and cream and so sweet varieties. Examine the plant before purchase to make sure it is free of pests and diseases.
Step 2
Choose a planting site in shade or partial sun with afternoon shade and make sure it has rich, moist soil. For more specific recommendations on sunlight, check the cultivar; blue-leaf hostas require more shade than green-leaf varieties, and too much bright sun will bleach out the leaf coloration of the yellow cultivars.
Step 3
Prepare the garden bed in the spring by using a pitchfork to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mixing in a 2 to 4-inch layer of compost.
Step 4
Dig a planting hole twice the size of the container the hosta was sold in, and place the hosta in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Backfill with garden soil and firmly tamp the soil into place but don't press so hard that the soil becomes compacted. Space hostas 36 inches apart if planting more than one. Water your hostas well after planting, and continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist.
Step 5
Apply a 2 1/2-inch layer of mulch to protect the roots, conserve moisture and provide a physical barrier against disease.
Step 6
Fertilize hostas in early spring with a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer in a 10-10-10 NPK formulation. According to the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension, the fertilizer should be applied at a rate of 1/2 pound per 100 square feet.
Step 7
Watch your hostas closely for damage from slugs, to which they are very susceptible. At the first sign of damage use slug bait or make a beer trap by leaving a saucer of beer by the hostas at night; slugs will crawl in and drown.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Featuring clouds of tiny light blue flowers on spikes and finely dissected, fragrant, gray-green leaves, Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) works well for perennial borders, mixed borders, wildlife gardens and other landscape areas. This drought-tolerant, woody-based perennial is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, and grows 3 to 5 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide. Its two-lipped, tubular flowers appear in summer through fall.
Perennial and Mixed Borders
Russian sage works well as a perennial border and in mixed borders that include perennials, bulbs, shrubs, evergreens and other plants When paired with evergreens, the plant's blue flowers create an interesting color contrast. When summer's blue flowers fade, Russian sage continues to stand tall in warm climates and add vertical interest to garden beds. Standing tall is sometimes a problem for Russian sage, however, as it tends to flop over when it gets tall. To prevent this, plant supportive plants around it and make sure the sage gets full sun.
Plant Russian sage toward the back of the border, where it adds height and doesn't screen smaller plants. This low-maintenance perennial tolerates dry, rocky, chalky and alkaline soil, and its salt tolerance means it grows well in coastal gardens. Prune the plants to 6 inches above the soil surface in spring, as new growth provides the best flowering. Before and after pruning Russian sage, sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Wildlife Gardens
Russian sage works beautifully in informal wildlife gardens, providing a hazy background of blooms that last all summer long and well into September. This fragrant plant attracts butterflies and hummingbirds while resisting more destructive garden visitors like deer and rabbits. The fine, crowded stems of the plant offer shelter to beneficial insects as well. For a natural look, plant your Russian sage in odd-numbered groups of three, five or seven plants. If you want to add an extra burst of color, consider pairing pink flowers with the sage for an attractive contrast.
Household Uses of Sage
The Russian sage is a distant relative of the mint family but is not the same as the sage commonly used as a spice. There are, however, still many Russian sage uses. Though the leaves of the Russian sage plant are slightly toxic and you should not eat them, the plant's flowers are edible and have a peppery flavor. You can use the leaves for garnish or steep them in a tea that many claim eases digestive discomfort. While you can't east Russian sage leaves, you can dry them to make a fragrant potpourri. You can also dry complete stalks of the Russian sage plant for use in dried flower arrangements.
Russian Sage Varieties
Cultivars of Russian sage have a range of uses in gardens too. Russian sage "Little Spire" (Perovskia atriplicifolia "Little Spire") grows 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall and wide, and provides informal hedging and edging for paths. This compact plant also grows well in containers. Russian sage "Filigran" (Perovskia "Filigran") grows 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, featuring lacy silvery foliage, which looks decorative in an ornamental border. Russian sage "Longin" (Perovskia "Longin") grows 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, and has an upright habit, making it a useful vertical contrast to rounded, bushy plants. "Little Spire," "Filigran" and "Longin" are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
Perennial and Mixed Borders
Russian sage works well as a perennial border and in mixed borders that include perennials, bulbs, shrubs, evergreens and other plants When paired with evergreens, the plant's blue flowers create an interesting color contrast. When summer's blue flowers fade, Russian sage continues to stand tall in warm climates and add vertical interest to garden beds. Standing tall is sometimes a problem for Russian sage, however, as it tends to flop over when it gets tall. To prevent this, plant supportive plants around it and make sure the sage gets full sun.
Plant Russian sage toward the back of the border, where it adds height and doesn't screen smaller plants. This low-maintenance perennial tolerates dry, rocky, chalky and alkaline soil, and its salt tolerance means it grows well in coastal gardens. Prune the plants to 6 inches above the soil surface in spring, as new growth provides the best flowering. Before and after pruning Russian sage, sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Wildlife Gardens
Russian sage works beautifully in informal wildlife gardens, providing a hazy background of blooms that last all summer long and well into September. This fragrant plant attracts butterflies and hummingbirds while resisting more destructive garden visitors like deer and rabbits. The fine, crowded stems of the plant offer shelter to beneficial insects as well. For a natural look, plant your Russian sage in odd-numbered groups of three, five or seven plants. If you want to add an extra burst of color, consider pairing pink flowers with the sage for an attractive contrast.
Household Uses of Sage
The Russian sage is a distant relative of the mint family but is not the same as the sage commonly used as a spice. There are, however, still many Russian sage uses. Though the leaves of the Russian sage plant are slightly toxic and you should not eat them, the plant's flowers are edible and have a peppery flavor. You can use the leaves for garnish or steep them in a tea that many claim eases digestive discomfort. While you can't east Russian sage leaves, you can dry them to make a fragrant potpourri. You can also dry complete stalks of the Russian sage plant for use in dried flower arrangements.
Russian Sage Varieties
Cultivars of Russian sage have a range of uses in gardens too. Russian sage "Little Spire" (Perovskia atriplicifolia "Little Spire") grows 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall and wide, and provides informal hedging and edging for paths. This compact plant also grows well in containers. Russian sage "Filigran" (Perovskia "Filigran") grows 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, featuring lacy silvery foliage, which looks decorative in an ornamental border. Russian sage "Longin" (Perovskia "Longin") grows 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, and has an upright habit, making it a useful vertical contrast to rounded, bushy plants. "Little Spire," "Filigran" and "Longin" are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
Azaleas, a member of the Rhododendron family, are shrubs that feature green, glossy leaves and clumps of colorful flowers--if grown under the right conditions. Once the heavy clay, alkaline Texas soil has been properly prepared to accommodate these picky bushes, the azalea has been planted in the soil properly and the appropriate spot to receive afternoon shade to protect the shrub from the Texas sun has been chosen the shrub rewards with showy flowers that require only a small amount of attention to maintain in Texas.
Step 1
Choose a location where the plant receives afternoon shade, such as the east or north side of your home, to protect the shrub from the Texas sun. Encore azaleas, which bloom in the spring and then again--for an encore--in the fall, are more tolerant of alkaline soils and heat, making them a good choice for Texas.
Step 2
Place ground pine bark, peat moss and sandy loam on top of the chosen planting spot. Mix with the shovel and build a mound about 12 to 18 inches high and about 4 feet in diameter. The shallow roots of the azaleas grow in this well-aerated, nutrient-rich mixture rather than the heavy clay soil of Texas.
Step 3
Spread expanded shale on top of mound until shale is 2 inches deep.
Step 4
Sprinkle five handfuls of fertilizer on the mound. Mix the planting medium with the shovel, maintaining the mound.
Step 5
Place the shrub in the bucket of water and ensure the root ball is completely submerged. Soak until no bubbles rise to the top of the water. Remove shrub and cut the roots vertically in three places using the knife, allowing for new root growth.
Step 6
Push dirt to the side in the middle of the mound. Make a hole almost the depth of the root ball. Place the azalea in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is slightly above ground.
Step 7
Push the dirt back around the outside of the root ball, leaving the crown exposed. Mulch the entire mound without covering the crown or allowing the mulch around the trunk of the azalea. Mulch about 3 inches deep. Water well.
Step 8
Check soil around the new shrub every day to ensure soil is slightly damp. Water when soil is dry. When growth of new leaves and flowers is obvious, water the root area well once or twice per week, depending on the weather. Maintain mulch depth for retention of moisture. Azaleas have shallow root systems and dry out quickly in the Texas heat.
Step 9
Prune leggy stems just after flowering to make the shrub dense and compact. Do not prune or fertilize after budding begins around late July. Fertilize after pruning.
Step 1
Choose a location where the plant receives afternoon shade, such as the east or north side of your home, to protect the shrub from the Texas sun. Encore azaleas, which bloom in the spring and then again--for an encore--in the fall, are more tolerant of alkaline soils and heat, making them a good choice for Texas.
Step 2
Place ground pine bark, peat moss and sandy loam on top of the chosen planting spot. Mix with the shovel and build a mound about 12 to 18 inches high and about 4 feet in diameter. The shallow roots of the azaleas grow in this well-aerated, nutrient-rich mixture rather than the heavy clay soil of Texas.
Step 3
Spread expanded shale on top of mound until shale is 2 inches deep.
Step 4
Sprinkle five handfuls of fertilizer on the mound. Mix the planting medium with the shovel, maintaining the mound.
Step 5
Place the shrub in the bucket of water and ensure the root ball is completely submerged. Soak until no bubbles rise to the top of the water. Remove shrub and cut the roots vertically in three places using the knife, allowing for new root growth.
Step 6
Push dirt to the side in the middle of the mound. Make a hole almost the depth of the root ball. Place the azalea in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is slightly above ground.
Step 7
Push the dirt back around the outside of the root ball, leaving the crown exposed. Mulch the entire mound without covering the crown or allowing the mulch around the trunk of the azalea. Mulch about 3 inches deep. Water well.
Step 8
Check soil around the new shrub every day to ensure soil is slightly damp. Water when soil is dry. When growth of new leaves and flowers is obvious, water the root area well once or twice per week, depending on the weather. Maintain mulch depth for retention of moisture. Azaleas have shallow root systems and dry out quickly in the Texas heat.
Step 9
Prune leggy stems just after flowering to make the shrub dense and compact. Do not prune or fertilize after budding begins around late July. Fertilize after pruning.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
Everybody knows that banana plants produce the bananas you slice up on your breakfast cereal, but there are other, less familiar uses for banana plants. These shrubs produce large, deep-green leaves on tall stalks, giving them the appearance of large trees. You can use banana plants to grow bananas but also to add a tropical touch indoors or outside.
Edible Gardening
Banana varieties that have edible fruits are members of the species Musa acuminata, which is hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11, and Musa balbisiana, hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11. They grow shoots best when temperatures remain 78 to 82 degrees F and fruit best at 84 to 86 F, but they can suffer chill damage at temperatures below 60 degrees F. Grow edible bananas in full-sun locations where the soil is rich in organic matter and is well-drained but still moist.
Standard-size edible banana plants can grow more than 30 feet tall, and they require 12-foot spacing between themselves and other large plants. Dwarf cultivars can tolerate an eight-foot distance from other dwarf varieties or 20 feet from large plants. Banana plants suffer few pest or disease problems, and they take 10 to 24 months to produce ripe fruits.
Tropical Screen
Dwarf Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana banana plants work well to create a tropical screen or living fence in regions where they are hardy. In colder climates, the hardy or Japanese banana (Musa basjoo), can serve the same purpose during the spring and summer months. Each of these three kinds of bananas produces dense foliage and large leaves. The hardy banana plant requires the same care as the other banana plants, except that it dies to the ground when the temperature drops to 32 degrees F. If you cut a hardy banana plant down to two to three feet above the ground after it dies back naturally, it will regrow in spring. The plant can grow 12 feet in a single season.
Garden Centerpiece
A single banana tree can become a large centerpiece in a garden, serving as a visual focal point. Edible banana plants provide year-round interest while the hardy banana is useful only as a showpiece in summer, except in USDA zones 9 through 10, where it remains evergreen. Planting a banana plant in a raised mound draws the eye to the plant while providing better drainage for its roots.
When planting a banana plant as a centerpiece, place it in a location protected from high winds but far enough from neighboring plants and buildings so that its foliage can reach its full spread to showcase the plant's natural, lush form.
Indoor Foliage
Hardy bananas grow well as potted plants and remain green all year in USDA zones 5 through 8 when taken indoors to protect them from cold weather. Dwarf edible banana plant varieties, such as "Cavendish" (Musa acuminata "Dwarf Cavendish"), hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11, also can survive as winter houseplants. Besides winter greenery, a potted banana plant gives a home a tropical touch.
The pot for any kind of banana plant must have bottom drainage holes so excess moisture can drain. Setting each banana plant's pot on a wheeled cart makes the large, heavy plant easier to move. Take the plants indoors before the first frost, and provide them with full, all-day sunlight. They grow especially well in an indoor sun-room. Banana plants become semi-dormant in winter. Water their soil enough so it doesn't dry out completely, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to rot. Both hardy and edible potted banana plants grow best when they spend summer outdoors in a sunny spot.
Edible Gardening
Banana varieties that have edible fruits are members of the species Musa acuminata, which is hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11, and Musa balbisiana, hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11. They grow shoots best when temperatures remain 78 to 82 degrees F and fruit best at 84 to 86 F, but they can suffer chill damage at temperatures below 60 degrees F. Grow edible bananas in full-sun locations where the soil is rich in organic matter and is well-drained but still moist.
Standard-size edible banana plants can grow more than 30 feet tall, and they require 12-foot spacing between themselves and other large plants. Dwarf cultivars can tolerate an eight-foot distance from other dwarf varieties or 20 feet from large plants. Banana plants suffer few pest or disease problems, and they take 10 to 24 months to produce ripe fruits.
Tropical Screen
Dwarf Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana banana plants work well to create a tropical screen or living fence in regions where they are hardy. In colder climates, the hardy or Japanese banana (Musa basjoo), can serve the same purpose during the spring and summer months. Each of these three kinds of bananas produces dense foliage and large leaves. The hardy banana plant requires the same care as the other banana plants, except that it dies to the ground when the temperature drops to 32 degrees F. If you cut a hardy banana plant down to two to three feet above the ground after it dies back naturally, it will regrow in spring. The plant can grow 12 feet in a single season.
Garden Centerpiece
A single banana tree can become a large centerpiece in a garden, serving as a visual focal point. Edible banana plants provide year-round interest while the hardy banana is useful only as a showpiece in summer, except in USDA zones 9 through 10, where it remains evergreen. Planting a banana plant in a raised mound draws the eye to the plant while providing better drainage for its roots.
When planting a banana plant as a centerpiece, place it in a location protected from high winds but far enough from neighboring plants and buildings so that its foliage can reach its full spread to showcase the plant's natural, lush form.
Indoor Foliage
Hardy bananas grow well as potted plants and remain green all year in USDA zones 5 through 8 when taken indoors to protect them from cold weather. Dwarf edible banana plant varieties, such as "Cavendish" (Musa acuminata "Dwarf Cavendish"), hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11, also can survive as winter houseplants. Besides winter greenery, a potted banana plant gives a home a tropical touch.
The pot for any kind of banana plant must have bottom drainage holes so excess moisture can drain. Setting each banana plant's pot on a wheeled cart makes the large, heavy plant easier to move. Take the plants indoors before the first frost, and provide them with full, all-day sunlight. They grow especially well in an indoor sun-room. Banana plants become semi-dormant in winter. Water their soil enough so it doesn't dry out completely, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to rot. Both hardy and edible potted banana plants grow best when they spend summer outdoors in a sunny spot.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
An evergreen, foxtail fern (Asparagus densiflorus "Myers") has delicate-looking, plumed stems, which are lined with pointed, bright green leaves. Despite its ferny appearance, foxtail fern is a flowering plant. Forming fluffy mounds 2 feet tall and up to 4 feet wide, foxtail fern works wells as a houseplant, specimen, container or border plant, requiring minimal maintenance and care. Foxtail ferns are generally free from pests and disease (ref 5)
Warm-Climate Plant
Foxtail fern grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, growing in full sun to light shade. Dappled sunlight is best. If it gets too much sun, its leaves may drop. If you're growing multiple plants, space them 18 to 24 inches apart. Foxtail fern can tolerate temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Where not hardy, foxtail fern may be grown as a houseplant in front of a bright, sunny windowsill with temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees F. The decorative red berries are mildly toxic if eaten, so warn children not to sample them.
Water Regularly
Foxtail fern tolerates a range of soil types, as long as it is well-draining. Water regularly and deeply, allowing the soil to dry out somewhat between waterings. Do not allow the soil to become flooded or waterlogged. Reduce watering in the winter, but do not allow the soil to become completely dry. Insufficient water may cause leaf drop. If you're growing it in a container, choose a pot with at least one drainage hole. Increase humidity for indoor plants by placing the container on a tray with wet pebbles and misting the plant regularly with room-temperature water.
Fertilize Monthly
During the growing season, fertilize outdoor plants monthly with 3 ounces of a 10-10-10 fertilizer mixed into 1 gallon of water per 10 square feet of bedding space. Check the label as directions vary among brands. Fertilize indoor plants monthly during the growing season with 7 drops of a liquid 10-10-10 fertilizer per 1 quart of water. Don not fertilize in winter.
Winter Considerations
Winter temperatures in the mid to low 20s Fahrenheit may damage foliage in the winter. In early spring, trim frost-damaged foliage to help the plant regain its good looks. (ref 6) Disinfect pruning equipment afterwards by soaking tools for 5 minutes in a solution that is equal parts alcohol and water. Rinse with water and air dry. If there is no rainfall, water plants monthly. To help prevent winter dehydration, mulch around the plant with 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, such as shredded deciduous plant leaves or pine boughs. Remove mulch in the spring, after frosts have passed. (last ref)
Warm-Climate Plant
Foxtail fern grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, growing in full sun to light shade. Dappled sunlight is best. If it gets too much sun, its leaves may drop. If you're growing multiple plants, space them 18 to 24 inches apart. Foxtail fern can tolerate temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Where not hardy, foxtail fern may be grown as a houseplant in front of a bright, sunny windowsill with temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees F. The decorative red berries are mildly toxic if eaten, so warn children not to sample them.
Water Regularly
Foxtail fern tolerates a range of soil types, as long as it is well-draining. Water regularly and deeply, allowing the soil to dry out somewhat between waterings. Do not allow the soil to become flooded or waterlogged. Reduce watering in the winter, but do not allow the soil to become completely dry. Insufficient water may cause leaf drop. If you're growing it in a container, choose a pot with at least one drainage hole. Increase humidity for indoor plants by placing the container on a tray with wet pebbles and misting the plant regularly with room-temperature water.
Fertilize Monthly
During the growing season, fertilize outdoor plants monthly with 3 ounces of a 10-10-10 fertilizer mixed into 1 gallon of water per 10 square feet of bedding space. Check the label as directions vary among brands. Fertilize indoor plants monthly during the growing season with 7 drops of a liquid 10-10-10 fertilizer per 1 quart of water. Don not fertilize in winter.
Winter Considerations
Winter temperatures in the mid to low 20s Fahrenheit may damage foliage in the winter. In early spring, trim frost-damaged foliage to help the plant regain its good looks. (ref 6) Disinfect pruning equipment afterwards by soaking tools for 5 minutes in a solution that is equal parts alcohol and water. Rinse with water and air dry. If there is no rainfall, water plants monthly. To help prevent winter dehydration, mulch around the plant with 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, such as shredded deciduous plant leaves or pine boughs. Remove mulch in the spring, after frosts have passed. (last ref)
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata), sometimes called sword ferns, have bright green fronds that grow up to 3 feet long and 6 inches wide. The fronds have serrated edges and a rough texture. They are shade-lovers and grow best in soil that is very rich and lightly moist. Boston ferns are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 8B through 11 and can be planted outdoors during any season. Frost will kill the foliage during winter, but new fronds emerge from the center of the plant once temperatures warm in spring.
Step 1
Use a garden fork to loosen the soil 10 to 12 inches deep. Amend with 2 to 3 inches of organic compost.
Step 2
Dig a hole the same depth and 2 to 3 inches wider than the fern's root system. Place the roots into the soil at the same level they were growing before. Backfill with the loosened soil and water until it is well-moistened, but not soggy.
Step 3
Check the soil regularly and water whenever the top inch is dry.
Step 4
Feed once each month, from spring until fall, with houseplant fertilizer.
Step 5
Clip off damaged fronds as necessary.
Step 6
Divide every two to three years in early spring.
Step 1
Use a garden fork to loosen the soil 10 to 12 inches deep. Amend with 2 to 3 inches of organic compost.
Step 2
Dig a hole the same depth and 2 to 3 inches wider than the fern's root system. Place the roots into the soil at the same level they were growing before. Backfill with the loosened soil and water until it is well-moistened, but not soggy.
Step 3
Check the soil regularly and water whenever the top inch is dry.
Step 4
Feed once each month, from spring until fall, with houseplant fertilizer.
Step 5
Clip off damaged fronds as necessary.
Step 6
Divide every two to three years in early spring.
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成长记
kensong
2018年08月14日
The Agave Schidigera is a stunning succulent with a single rosette of slender spiky leaves that is dark green with conspicuous white swirly hairs on the leaf margins. Slow growing and not a difficult one to care for.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月13日
Cordyline australis, also known as cabbage palm, is an exotic-looking tropical plant available in a variety of sizes and colors. The lance-shaped leaves are green or red with visible veins in shades of red, green or purple. Cordyline australis is a non-fussy plant ideal for beginners, with enough visual interest to captivate the most experienced gardeners. Cordyline australis is suitable for growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 10b to 11. In cooler climates, plant Cordyline australis in a container, then grow the plant as an indoor plant or bring it indoors before the temperature drops in autumn.
Step 1
Plant Cordyline australis in nearly any well-drained soil where the plant will be exposed to moderate sunlight. A location with plenty of bright morning sunlight is best, as hot afternoon sunlight is too intense. If you prefer to grow Cordyline australis indoors as a potted houseplant, locate the plant near, but not directly in front of a sunny window. Containerized plants do best when planted in a pot filled with any commercial potting soil. A pot with a drainage hole is crucial.
Step 2
Water Cordyline australis only when the soil feels dry, as the plant is drought-tolerant and may rot if soil is allowed to remain soggy. Water deeply enough to reach the roots, then allow the soil to dry before watering again. Check containerized plants often, especially if the plants are located outdoors during warm weather. If the potting soil feels dry, water until the water runs through the drainage hole, then allow the excess water to drain freely.
Step 3
Fertilize Cordyline australis every other week. In-ground plants benefit from a balanced, liquid or granular fertilizer applied at the rate specified on the fertilizer label. Feed containerized plants a balanced water-soluble fertilizer mixed according to specifications on the container. Always apply fertilizer to moist soil, then water deeply immediately after fertilizing to ensure the fertilizer reaches the root zone. Avoid splashing fertilizer on the foliage.
Step 1
Plant Cordyline australis in nearly any well-drained soil where the plant will be exposed to moderate sunlight. A location with plenty of bright morning sunlight is best, as hot afternoon sunlight is too intense. If you prefer to grow Cordyline australis indoors as a potted houseplant, locate the plant near, but not directly in front of a sunny window. Containerized plants do best when planted in a pot filled with any commercial potting soil. A pot with a drainage hole is crucial.
Step 2
Water Cordyline australis only when the soil feels dry, as the plant is drought-tolerant and may rot if soil is allowed to remain soggy. Water deeply enough to reach the roots, then allow the soil to dry before watering again. Check containerized plants often, especially if the plants are located outdoors during warm weather. If the potting soil feels dry, water until the water runs through the drainage hole, then allow the excess water to drain freely.
Step 3
Fertilize Cordyline australis every other week. In-ground plants benefit from a balanced, liquid or granular fertilizer applied at the rate specified on the fertilizer label. Feed containerized plants a balanced water-soluble fertilizer mixed according to specifications on the container. Always apply fertilizer to moist soil, then water deeply immediately after fertilizing to ensure the fertilizer reaches the root zone. Avoid splashing fertilizer on the foliage.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月13日
When the turfgrass lawns all around it lie exhausted and brown in the summer heat, the narrow, arching, green foliage of liriope (Liriope muscari) keeps its cool. Perennial liriope, also known as lilyturf, isn't grass. In mass plantings, however, it forms a lush ground cover, with the late-summer bonus of lavender flower spikes.
Although marketed as an evergreen that is perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 10, lilyturf may develop brown, withered foliage during winter in some areas. That is most likely to occur when temperatures drop below minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit.
Deep cold isn't lilyturf's only enemy. In all climates, the fungal disease anthracnose may leave the plant brown and tattered. Whether cold or disease is the problem, a well-timed trim is the solution.
Timing the Trim
The best time to trim lilyturf's damaged old foliage is anytime before its healthy new foliage emerges in spring. Otherwise, you'll shave the top of the fresh growth as well as the old growth. Fall trimming of anthracnose-blemished plants -- in warm-winter climates, at least -- keeps them looking good until spring.
Cutting back cold-damaged foliage can wait until anytime between January and April, depending on when the threat of subzero temperatures subsides in your area.
Choosing Your Method
Trim a large lilyturf planting with a lawn mower; for edgings or border-accent plants, hedge trimmers are easier to manage. Hedge trimmers are also better for cutting lilyturf with sprouting leaves because the tool can cut just above the new growth.
Making the Cuts
Before mowing lilyturf, adjust the mower blades to their highest setting.
Use the hedge trimmers like a giant pair of scissors. Kneeling, hold the trimmer grips firmly, and slide the blades into the foliage 3 to 4 inches above the crowns. As you cut, keep the blades horizontal and parallel to the ground. Otherwise, the trimmed plants will look uneven and spiky.
Although marketed as an evergreen that is perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 10, lilyturf may develop brown, withered foliage during winter in some areas. That is most likely to occur when temperatures drop below minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit.
Deep cold isn't lilyturf's only enemy. In all climates, the fungal disease anthracnose may leave the plant brown and tattered. Whether cold or disease is the problem, a well-timed trim is the solution.
Timing the Trim
The best time to trim lilyturf's damaged old foliage is anytime before its healthy new foliage emerges in spring. Otherwise, you'll shave the top of the fresh growth as well as the old growth. Fall trimming of anthracnose-blemished plants -- in warm-winter climates, at least -- keeps them looking good until spring.
Cutting back cold-damaged foliage can wait until anytime between January and April, depending on when the threat of subzero temperatures subsides in your area.
Choosing Your Method
Trim a large lilyturf planting with a lawn mower; for edgings or border-accent plants, hedge trimmers are easier to manage. Hedge trimmers are also better for cutting lilyturf with sprouting leaves because the tool can cut just above the new growth.
Making the Cuts
Before mowing lilyturf, adjust the mower blades to their highest setting.
Use the hedge trimmers like a giant pair of scissors. Kneeling, hold the trimmer grips firmly, and slide the blades into the foliage 3 to 4 inches above the crowns. As you cut, keep the blades horizontal and parallel to the ground. Otherwise, the trimmed plants will look uneven and spiky.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月12日
Varieged ginger (Alpinia zerumbet) is a dramatic, upright plant with long, sword-shaped leaves variegated in shades of yellow and green. Fragrant pink and white flowers adorn the plant throughout much of the year. Variegated ginger, which grows from underground rhizomes that look much like ginger root, is propagated by dividing the rhizomes of mature plants. A warm-climate plant, variegated ginger is suitable for planting in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 to 11.
Growing Requirements
Variegated ginger is a versatile plant that tolerates a range of growing conditions from full shade to full sun, but the plant is happiest in partial shade and benefits from protection during the hot part of the afternoon. The plant tolerates nearly any well-drained soil, but prefers rich organic soil.
Propagation by Division
To divide variegated shell ginger, use a shovel or garden fork to dig an entire clump. Alternatively, if the clump is very large, use a shovel to dig a section of the plant's outer edge. Lift the clump from the ground, then pull the rhizomes apart. Plant the rhizomes with the shoots attached, or remove the shoots and plant the rhizomes.
Planting Divisions
Plant divided ginger in soil that you have prepared ahead of time. Variegated ginger likes fertile soil and benefits from the addition of 2 to 4 inches of organic matter such as leaf mold, compost or decomposed manure. Plant the rhizomes, or the rhizomes with shoots attached, at the same soil depth the rhizomes were located in their original planting spot. Cover the rhizomes with soil, then pat the soil firmly over the rhizomes. Water the area immediately after planting.
General Care
Variegated ginger is moderately drought tolerant, but does best in soil kept consistently moist. Regular watering is especially critical during periods of hot, dry weather, or if the plant is located in full sunlight. Water often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Fertilize variegated ginger every other month, using a balanced, dry fertilizer. Apply fertilizer in accordance with the specifications provided on the label.
Growing Requirements
Variegated ginger is a versatile plant that tolerates a range of growing conditions from full shade to full sun, but the plant is happiest in partial shade and benefits from protection during the hot part of the afternoon. The plant tolerates nearly any well-drained soil, but prefers rich organic soil.
Propagation by Division
To divide variegated shell ginger, use a shovel or garden fork to dig an entire clump. Alternatively, if the clump is very large, use a shovel to dig a section of the plant's outer edge. Lift the clump from the ground, then pull the rhizomes apart. Plant the rhizomes with the shoots attached, or remove the shoots and plant the rhizomes.
Planting Divisions
Plant divided ginger in soil that you have prepared ahead of time. Variegated ginger likes fertile soil and benefits from the addition of 2 to 4 inches of organic matter such as leaf mold, compost or decomposed manure. Plant the rhizomes, or the rhizomes with shoots attached, at the same soil depth the rhizomes were located in their original planting spot. Cover the rhizomes with soil, then pat the soil firmly over the rhizomes. Water the area immediately after planting.
General Care
Variegated ginger is moderately drought tolerant, but does best in soil kept consistently moist. Regular watering is especially critical during periods of hot, dry weather, or if the plant is located in full sunlight. Water often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Fertilize variegated ginger every other month, using a balanced, dry fertilizer. Apply fertilizer in accordance with the specifications provided on the label.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月09日
Description: This plant is a perennial in areas with mild winters, otherwise it is an annual. It is about 2-4' tall and branches frequently. The smooth stems are greyish green and finely pubescent (canescent). The alternate leaves are up to 6" long and 4" across. They are ovate or cordate-ovate, smooth or slightly undulate along the margins, and finely pubescent on the underside (young leaves are finely pubescent on on the upperside as well). Each leaf is usually asymmetric at the base (oblique).
Individual flowers develop on short pedicels where the upper stems branch dichotomously. Each white flower is about 5-7" long and 3-4" across. The corolla has 5 shallow lobes that are barely perceptible; there is a short point between each pair of lobes along the rim of the corolla. Five white stamens are exerted from the center of the corolla. The base of the flower consists of a tubular calyx that has 5 broad teeth along its upper rim; this calyx extends to about ½ the length of the flower, and it lacks conspicuous ridges or wings. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to fall and lasts about 1-2 months. The flowers often bloom during the day. Each flower is replaced by a prickly seed capsule about 1" across. Each capsule contains several seeds that are large and angular. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic conditions, and fertile loamy soil, preferably at a site that is not too windy. Flea beetles and other insects may chew tiny holes in the leaves.
Range & Habitat: Angel's Trumpet has naturalized in scattered counties across Illinois, although it rarely persists (see Distribution Map). Habitats include areas adjacent to gardens, areas along roads and railroads, and waste areas. This plant is occasionally cultivated in flower gardens, from which it occasionally escapes. Angel's Trumpet was introduced from central America and/or southwestern United States.
Faunal Associations: Little is known about floral-faunal relations for this species. The flowers are pollinated by hummingbirds and Sphinx moths. The foliage contains stramonium (a narcotic) and probably other toxic chemicals, therefore it is unlikely to be bothered by deer and other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: An herb garden at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers are extremely large and showy. The only other member of this genus that has naturalized in Illinois is Datura stramonium (Jimsonweed), which is common and weedy. Like Angel's Trumpet, Jimsonweed is a bushy herbaceous plant with large leaves and funnelform flowers. However, the flowers of Jimsonweed are smaller and less showy (up to 5" long and 2½" across), and they are less likely to bloom during the day. The foliage of Jimsonweed is largely hairless, while Angel's Trumpet has stems and leaf undersides that are finely pubescent. The leaf margins of Jimsonweed are lobed or undulate, while the leaf margins of Angel's Trumpet are smooth or slightly undulate. Another scientific name for Angel's Trumpet is Datura inoxia. Another common name for this species is Ghost Flower.
Individual flowers develop on short pedicels where the upper stems branch dichotomously. Each white flower is about 5-7" long and 3-4" across. The corolla has 5 shallow lobes that are barely perceptible; there is a short point between each pair of lobes along the rim of the corolla. Five white stamens are exerted from the center of the corolla. The base of the flower consists of a tubular calyx that has 5 broad teeth along its upper rim; this calyx extends to about ½ the length of the flower, and it lacks conspicuous ridges or wings. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to fall and lasts about 1-2 months. The flowers often bloom during the day. Each flower is replaced by a prickly seed capsule about 1" across. Each capsule contains several seeds that are large and angular. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic conditions, and fertile loamy soil, preferably at a site that is not too windy. Flea beetles and other insects may chew tiny holes in the leaves.
Range & Habitat: Angel's Trumpet has naturalized in scattered counties across Illinois, although it rarely persists (see Distribution Map). Habitats include areas adjacent to gardens, areas along roads and railroads, and waste areas. This plant is occasionally cultivated in flower gardens, from which it occasionally escapes. Angel's Trumpet was introduced from central America and/or southwestern United States.
Faunal Associations: Little is known about floral-faunal relations for this species. The flowers are pollinated by hummingbirds and Sphinx moths. The foliage contains stramonium (a narcotic) and probably other toxic chemicals, therefore it is unlikely to be bothered by deer and other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: An herb garden at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers are extremely large and showy. The only other member of this genus that has naturalized in Illinois is Datura stramonium (Jimsonweed), which is common and weedy. Like Angel's Trumpet, Jimsonweed is a bushy herbaceous plant with large leaves and funnelform flowers. However, the flowers of Jimsonweed are smaller and less showy (up to 5" long and 2½" across), and they are less likely to bloom during the day. The foliage of Jimsonweed is largely hairless, while Angel's Trumpet has stems and leaf undersides that are finely pubescent. The leaf margins of Jimsonweed are lobed or undulate, while the leaf margins of Angel's Trumpet are smooth or slightly undulate. Another scientific name for Angel's Trumpet is Datura inoxia. Another common name for this species is Ghost Flower.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月09日
Description: This plant is a summer annual about 3-5' tall that branches dichotomously. The stems are green or purple and largely hairless, although young stems often have conspicuous hairs. The alternate leaves are up to 8" long and 6" across (excluding the petioles). They are ovate or ovate-cordate in outline, but pinnately lobed. These lobes are somewhat shallow and pointed at their tips; there are usually 2-3 of these lobes on each side of the leaf blade. The margin of each leaf may have a few secondary lobes or coarse dentate teeth, otherwise it is smooth or slightly undulate. The leaves may be slightly pubescent when young, but become hairless with age; the upper surface of each leaf is often dark green and dull. The foliage of Jimsonweed exudes a bitter rank odor.
Individual flowers occur where the stems branch dichotomously; the upper stems also terminate in individual flowers. The funnelform corolla of each flower is up to 5" long and 2" across when fully open; its outer rim has 5 shallow lobes. Each of these lobes forms an acute point in the middle.The corolla is white or pale violet throughout, except at the throat of the flower, where thick veins of dark violet occur. The light green calyx is shorter than the corolla and conspicuously divided along its length by 5 membranous wings. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 2 months. The flowers usually don't open up until midnight and close early in the morning; less often, the flowers may bloom toward the middle of the day, especially when it is cloudy. Individual flowers last only a single day. Each flower is replaced by a hard fruit that is dry and spiny; it is about 1½" long, 1" across, and spheroid-ovoid in shape. Underneath each fruit is a truncated remnant of the calyx that curves sharply downward. These fruits are initially green, but become brown with maturity; they divide into 4 segments to release the seeds. The large seeds are dull, irregular, and dark-colored; their surface may be pitted or slightly reticulated. The root system consists of taproot that is shallow for the size of the plant; it branches frequently. Jimsonweed spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and a rich fertile soil with high nitrogen content. This type of soil is necessary to supply the nutrients that are required by the prodigious growth of this annual plant. The foliage is often pitted by tiny holes that are made by flea beetles (the same or similar species that attack eggplant). The seeds can remain viable in the ground for several years.
Range & Habitat: Jimsonweed is a fairly common plant that has been observed in most counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is probably adventive from tropical America and it was first observed in the United States at the Jamestown colony during the 17th century. Typical habitats include cropland (particularly corn fields), fallow fields, old feed lots, piles of soil at construction sites, mounds of decomposed mulch and discarded vegetation, urban vacant lots, and miscellaneous waste areas. Disturbed areas with open fertile soil are strongly preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by nectar-seeking Sphinx moths. Various species of beetles are attracted by the flowers, especially at night, where they steal nectar and chomp on the pollen. The foliage and other parts of Jimsonweed are a source of food for several flea beetles (Epitrix spp.), Three-lined Potato Beetle (Lema daturaphila), Colorado Potato Beetle (Leptinotarsa decemlineata), Clavate Tortoise Beetle (Plagiometriona clavata), and larvae of the Pink-spotted Hawk Moth (Agrius cingulata); see Clark et al. (2004) and Covell (1984/2005). The foliage and seeds contain an impressive assortment of toxic alkaloids that can be fatal to mammalian herbivores and humans. Some of these alkaloids are mildly narcotic and hallucinogenic. The immature seeds are especially poisonous; as few as 20 seeds can fatally poison a child. It is doubtful that birds make any use of these toxic seeds. Humans help to spread the seeds around through activities that are related to agriculture, construction, and landscaping.
Photographic Location: Near piles of soil at a vacant lot in Champaign, Illinois. These piles of soil were dumped and occasionally carried off by trucks in relation to off-site construction and landscaping activities.
Comments: The common name 'Jimsonweed' is probably a corruption of 'Jamestown Weed,' referring to where this species was first observed in North America. Another common name that is often used for this species is 'Thornapple.' Two varieties of Jimsonweed have been described. The typical variety has green stems and white flowers, while var. tatula has purple stems and either pale violet or purple-striped flowers. Jimsonweed has a distinct appearance, making it easy to identify.
The only other Datura spp. in Illinois, Datura wrightii (Angel's Trumpet), rarely naturalizes in the wild. It is sometimes cultivated in flower gardens because of its attractive flowers. Angel's Trumpet is a hairier plant with unlobed leaves and larger flowers. The corolla of its flowers ranges from 5-8" in length, while the corolla of Jimsonweed's flowers is about 3–5" in length. Both of these Datura spp. have flowers that bloom during the night. Another species in the Nightshade family, Nicandra physalodes (Shoofly Plant), also rarely naturalizes in the wild. The Shoofly Plant has foliage that is similar to Jimsonweed, but its funnelform flowers are much smaller (less than 1½" long and across). Unlike Jimsonweed, the flowers of Shoofly Plant are strictly diurnal.
Individual flowers occur where the stems branch dichotomously; the upper stems also terminate in individual flowers. The funnelform corolla of each flower is up to 5" long and 2" across when fully open; its outer rim has 5 shallow lobes. Each of these lobes forms an acute point in the middle.The corolla is white or pale violet throughout, except at the throat of the flower, where thick veins of dark violet occur. The light green calyx is shorter than the corolla and conspicuously divided along its length by 5 membranous wings. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 2 months. The flowers usually don't open up until midnight and close early in the morning; less often, the flowers may bloom toward the middle of the day, especially when it is cloudy. Individual flowers last only a single day. Each flower is replaced by a hard fruit that is dry and spiny; it is about 1½" long, 1" across, and spheroid-ovoid in shape. Underneath each fruit is a truncated remnant of the calyx that curves sharply downward. These fruits are initially green, but become brown with maturity; they divide into 4 segments to release the seeds. The large seeds are dull, irregular, and dark-colored; their surface may be pitted or slightly reticulated. The root system consists of taproot that is shallow for the size of the plant; it branches frequently. Jimsonweed spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and a rich fertile soil with high nitrogen content. This type of soil is necessary to supply the nutrients that are required by the prodigious growth of this annual plant. The foliage is often pitted by tiny holes that are made by flea beetles (the same or similar species that attack eggplant). The seeds can remain viable in the ground for several years.
Range & Habitat: Jimsonweed is a fairly common plant that has been observed in most counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is probably adventive from tropical America and it was first observed in the United States at the Jamestown colony during the 17th century. Typical habitats include cropland (particularly corn fields), fallow fields, old feed lots, piles of soil at construction sites, mounds of decomposed mulch and discarded vegetation, urban vacant lots, and miscellaneous waste areas. Disturbed areas with open fertile soil are strongly preferred.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by nectar-seeking Sphinx moths. Various species of beetles are attracted by the flowers, especially at night, where they steal nectar and chomp on the pollen. The foliage and other parts of Jimsonweed are a source of food for several flea beetles (Epitrix spp.), Three-lined Potato Beetle (Lema daturaphila), Colorado Potato Beetle (Leptinotarsa decemlineata), Clavate Tortoise Beetle (Plagiometriona clavata), and larvae of the Pink-spotted Hawk Moth (Agrius cingulata); see Clark et al. (2004) and Covell (1984/2005). The foliage and seeds contain an impressive assortment of toxic alkaloids that can be fatal to mammalian herbivores and humans. Some of these alkaloids are mildly narcotic and hallucinogenic. The immature seeds are especially poisonous; as few as 20 seeds can fatally poison a child. It is doubtful that birds make any use of these toxic seeds. Humans help to spread the seeds around through activities that are related to agriculture, construction, and landscaping.
Photographic Location: Near piles of soil at a vacant lot in Champaign, Illinois. These piles of soil were dumped and occasionally carried off by trucks in relation to off-site construction and landscaping activities.
Comments: The common name 'Jimsonweed' is probably a corruption of 'Jamestown Weed,' referring to where this species was first observed in North America. Another common name that is often used for this species is 'Thornapple.' Two varieties of Jimsonweed have been described. The typical variety has green stems and white flowers, while var. tatula has purple stems and either pale violet or purple-striped flowers. Jimsonweed has a distinct appearance, making it easy to identify.
The only other Datura spp. in Illinois, Datura wrightii (Angel's Trumpet), rarely naturalizes in the wild. It is sometimes cultivated in flower gardens because of its attractive flowers. Angel's Trumpet is a hairier plant with unlobed leaves and larger flowers. The corolla of its flowers ranges from 5-8" in length, while the corolla of Jimsonweed's flowers is about 3–5" in length. Both of these Datura spp. have flowers that bloom during the night. Another species in the Nightshade family, Nicandra physalodes (Shoofly Plant), also rarely naturalizes in the wild. The Shoofly Plant has foliage that is similar to Jimsonweed, but its funnelform flowers are much smaller (less than 1½" long and across). Unlike Jimsonweed, the flowers of Shoofly Plant are strictly diurnal.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月09日
Description: This perennial wildflower is 1-3' tall, branching frequently. The stems are light gray-green, terete, and sparsely to moderately covered with short fine hairs. The alternate leaves are 1½-3" long, ¾-1½" across, and lanceolate, oblanceolate, or ovate in outline; each leaf is pinnate-pinnatifid with 2-6 pairs of lateral leaflets and a terminal leaflet. The leaflets are oblong in shape and pinnatifid with pointed lobes. The upper surface of each leaf is light to medium gray-green, while the lower surface is light gray-green; both surfaces are sparsely to moderately covered with short fine hairs. The lower leaves have short flat petioles, while the upper leaves are sessile or nearly so. The upper stems terminate in individual flowerheads about 1½-2" across. Each flowerhead consists of 20-32 yellow ray florets that surround a large dome-like cluster of golden yellow disk florets. The ray florets are fertile and pistillate (female); the petaloid (petal-like) extension of each ray floret terminates in 2-3 blunt teeth. The tiny disk florets are fertile and perfect; the corolla of each disk floret is narrowly tubular with 5 spreading lobes.
Around the base of each flowerhead, there are numerous phyllaries (floral bracts) that are arranged together in a single series. Individual phyllaries are light green, linear in shape, and membranous along their upper margins; they are sparsely to moderately covered with short fine hairs. The peduncles (stalks) of the flowerheads are relatively long and unbranched; they are similar in appearance to the stems. The crushed foliage has an aromatic scent. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall, lasting about 2 months. The florets are replaced by narrowly oblongoid achenes about 2 mm. in length; these achenes are slightly four-angled and slightly flattened. At the apex of each achene, there is a short angular crown.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun and mesic to dry conditions. Different types of soil are tolerated, including those containing loam, clay-loam, and gravelly material.
Range & Habitat: The introduced Yellow Chamomile rarely escapes from cultivation in Illinois. So far, naturalized plants have been found in the NE section of the state (see Distribution Map). It was introduced from Europe into North America as an ornamental plant. Naturalized habitats include roadsides, abandoned fields, weedy meadows, and thinly wooded areas that are relatively open and sunny. Yellow Chamomile is often cultivated in flower gardens.
Faunal Associations: Because their nectar and pollen is relatively easy to reach, the flowerheads attract a wide variety of insects. In Europe, Müller (1873/1883) observed small bees (Colletes spp., Heriades spp., & Halictus spp.), Ichneumonid wasps, various flies (Syrphidae, Conopidae, & Muscidae), and beetles (Elateridae & Mordellidae) visiting the flowers. In North America, records of floral-fauna interactions for Yellow Chamomile are sparse. Caterpillars of the moth Orthonama obstipata (The Gem) have been observed to feed on composites (e.g., Anthemis spp.) that are similar to Yellow Chamomile (Covell, 1984/2005). According to Georgia (1913), grazing animals avoid consumption of Yellow Chamomile. The aromatic foliage is bitter-tasting and possibly toxic to such animals.
Photographic Location: A flower garden in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Several plants with daisy-like flowers have been introduced into North America from Europe. Most of these species have flowerheads with white petal-like rays, although Yellow Chamomile (Cota tinctoria) is one of the exceptions. In Illinois, it has been less likely to escape from cultivation than Leucanthemum vulgare (Ox-Eye Daisy), Anthemis cotula (Dog Fennel), and some other species in this group.
Around the base of each flowerhead, there are numerous phyllaries (floral bracts) that are arranged together in a single series. Individual phyllaries are light green, linear in shape, and membranous along their upper margins; they are sparsely to moderately covered with short fine hairs. The peduncles (stalks) of the flowerheads are relatively long and unbranched; they are similar in appearance to the stems. The crushed foliage has an aromatic scent. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall, lasting about 2 months. The florets are replaced by narrowly oblongoid achenes about 2 mm. in length; these achenes are slightly four-angled and slightly flattened. At the apex of each achene, there is a short angular crown.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun and mesic to dry conditions. Different types of soil are tolerated, including those containing loam, clay-loam, and gravelly material.
Range & Habitat: The introduced Yellow Chamomile rarely escapes from cultivation in Illinois. So far, naturalized plants have been found in the NE section of the state (see Distribution Map). It was introduced from Europe into North America as an ornamental plant. Naturalized habitats include roadsides, abandoned fields, weedy meadows, and thinly wooded areas that are relatively open and sunny. Yellow Chamomile is often cultivated in flower gardens.
Faunal Associations: Because their nectar and pollen is relatively easy to reach, the flowerheads attract a wide variety of insects. In Europe, Müller (1873/1883) observed small bees (Colletes spp., Heriades spp., & Halictus spp.), Ichneumonid wasps, various flies (Syrphidae, Conopidae, & Muscidae), and beetles (Elateridae & Mordellidae) visiting the flowers. In North America, records of floral-fauna interactions for Yellow Chamomile are sparse. Caterpillars of the moth Orthonama obstipata (The Gem) have been observed to feed on composites (e.g., Anthemis spp.) that are similar to Yellow Chamomile (Covell, 1984/2005). According to Georgia (1913), grazing animals avoid consumption of Yellow Chamomile. The aromatic foliage is bitter-tasting and possibly toxic to such animals.
Photographic Location: A flower garden in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Several plants with daisy-like flowers have been introduced into North America from Europe. Most of these species have flowerheads with white petal-like rays, although Yellow Chamomile (Cota tinctoria) is one of the exceptions. In Illinois, it has been less likely to escape from cultivation than Leucanthemum vulgare (Ox-Eye Daisy), Anthemis cotula (Dog Fennel), and some other species in this group.
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