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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
The bright orange-to-yellow flowers of Clivia plants add a warm and tropical flair to the landscape. These South African natives produce dark green, sword-shaped leaves that provide a contrasting texture to the foliage of woody evergreen and deciduous plants. Although Clivias grow well in containers in any zone, they thrive when planted outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Clivia plants require partial to full shade and fast-draining loamy soils to produce healthy growth.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Spread a 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of mulch around the Clivia plant with a rake. Keep the mulch 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) from the base of the plant to avoid rot.
Water the Clivia plant when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil become dry during the active growing season using a garden hose. Keep the soil moist but never soggy. Never water the Clivia to the point that there is standing water on the soil’s surface. Reduce watering in the late fall and winter months when the plant enters dormancy. Water dormant Clivia plants when the top 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) of soil becomes dry.
Fertilize the Clivia with a 6-6-6 nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium formulation slow-release fertilizer every three months during the growing season. Apply at a rate of 1 teaspoon per square foot of soil. Spread the fertilizer in a ring around the Clivia plant, keeping the granules 12 inches (30 cm) from its base. Rake the fertilizer into the top 3 inches (7.5 cm) of soil. Water the area thoroughly. Do not apply fertilizer while the plant is dormant.
Deadhead the Clivia plant in the late spring when the flowers are spent. Cut through the base of the flower stalks with a pair of pruning shears. Make the cut 1/4 inch (6 mm) above the point where the flower stalk joins with the main plant. Discard the spent flowers in a trash bin or on top of a compost pile.
Spray the plant’s foliage periodically with a steady stream of water to wash away dust and grime that may attract harmful insects. Wash the leaves in the early morning hours to give the foliage time to dry before nightfall.
Place slug and snail traps around the base of the plant to stop these pests from feeding on its foliage. Spray horticultural oil or insecticidal soap onto foliage infested with aphids, spider mites or scale.
Propagation
Divide the Clivia plant every three to five years. Dig up the plant in the spring, just after it has finished flowering. Dig in a ring around the plant, 12 inches (30 cm) away from its center with a shovel or trowel. Dig down to a depth of 10 inches (25 cm) and undercut the root ball to free it from the soil. Lift the plant from the ground and brush away excess soil. Pull the plant apart, separating individual stems with a healthy portion of the swollen roots. Replant the divisions, spacing multiple plants 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart. Do not plant Clivia plants deeper than they were previously growing. Water the transplanted Clivia plants thoroughly.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Spread a 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of mulch around the Clivia plant with a rake. Keep the mulch 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) from the base of the plant to avoid rot.
Water the Clivia plant when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil become dry during the active growing season using a garden hose. Keep the soil moist but never soggy. Never water the Clivia to the point that there is standing water on the soil’s surface. Reduce watering in the late fall and winter months when the plant enters dormancy. Water dormant Clivia plants when the top 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) of soil becomes dry.
Fertilize the Clivia with a 6-6-6 nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium formulation slow-release fertilizer every three months during the growing season. Apply at a rate of 1 teaspoon per square foot of soil. Spread the fertilizer in a ring around the Clivia plant, keeping the granules 12 inches (30 cm) from its base. Rake the fertilizer into the top 3 inches (7.5 cm) of soil. Water the area thoroughly. Do not apply fertilizer while the plant is dormant.
Deadhead the Clivia plant in the late spring when the flowers are spent. Cut through the base of the flower stalks with a pair of pruning shears. Make the cut 1/4 inch (6 mm) above the point where the flower stalk joins with the main plant. Discard the spent flowers in a trash bin or on top of a compost pile.
Spray the plant’s foliage periodically with a steady stream of water to wash away dust and grime that may attract harmful insects. Wash the leaves in the early morning hours to give the foliage time to dry before nightfall.
Place slug and snail traps around the base of the plant to stop these pests from feeding on its foliage. Spray horticultural oil or insecticidal soap onto foliage infested with aphids, spider mites or scale.
Propagation
Divide the Clivia plant every three to five years. Dig up the plant in the spring, just after it has finished flowering. Dig in a ring around the plant, 12 inches (30 cm) away from its center with a shovel or trowel. Dig down to a depth of 10 inches (25 cm) and undercut the root ball to free it from the soil. Lift the plant from the ground and brush away excess soil. Pull the plant apart, separating individual stems with a healthy portion of the swollen roots. Replant the divisions, spacing multiple plants 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart. Do not plant Clivia plants deeper than they were previously growing. Water the transplanted Clivia plants thoroughly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Looking eerily akin to dangling green serpents, Snake Gourds are not an item you will see available in the supermarket. Related to Chinese bitter melons and a staple of many Asian cuisines, Snake Gourds are most likely found in an Asian market, or you may want to grow your own.
As its name not so cunningly suggests, a Snake Gourd is a gourd available in two varieties in the United States. Ornamental Snake Gourds are long, hard-shelled gourds grown as a curio in the garden, while its counterpart is an edible wax-skinned gourd (Trichosanthes cucumerina) that tastes much like a cucumber. Additional Snake Gourd info describes the interior of the striped, speckled fruit as being red, seeded and slightly slimy.
This cucurbit hails from the Asian tropics and is borne from a rapidly growing annual vine with fruit that can reach up to 6 feet (1.8 m) in length! You may also find it referred to as Snake Squash or Club Gourd, and it is often pickled with a texture akin to zucchini when young. It can be used just as a zucchini too — stuffed, baked, pickled, stir fried, and is delicious in all manner of curries and vegetarian dishes.
Extremely popular in Indian dishes, it’s no surprise that Snake Gourd has found its way into ayurvedic medicine, often used as a cooling ingredient. Seeds of the Snake Gourd were sent to Europe from China in 1720. They have long been known to the American and European community, but were never cultivated since the plant needs warm nights to fruit. Today, there is renewed interest in its cultivation due to the rapidly increasing Indian communities in these areas of the globe.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Snake Gourds grow in tropical regions, so a similar climate is ideal for cultivating Snake Gourds. For those of you lucky enough to enjoy a warmer, drier environment, growing these gourds in the home garden is well worth the attempt. Apparently, the rule of thumb is, if you can grow Lima Beans in your area, you can grow Snake Gourds.
First of all, Snake Gourds need a trellis or something that they can grow up — arbor, chain link fence, etc. Make sure the structure is sturdy due to the weight of the large gourds. Start the seeds indoors early after soaking overnight to increase germination time. Transplant outside much as you would bean plants in well mixed organic matter and topsoil.
Seeds can be saved for the following season but toss out any light colored or white seeds. Keep and plant many more seeds than you think you may need, as the germination rate is only about 60 percent.
Snake Gourd care is similar to that of most other gourds. Prune the plant’s lateral branches to increase fruit set and production. Some people tie a pebble or other weight to the flower end of the gourd to foster a straighter fruit, but this is just for aesthetics. There is no need to do so.
Harvest Snake Gourds when young, around 40-50 days from planting. The long varietals may then be ready when only 16-18 inches, while the shorter cultivars will be around 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) in length.
Fully ripe fruit is quite inedible, orange and mushy, although the red, jelly-like substance surrounding the seeds can be eaten much as a tomato sauce in recipes or used in ayurvedic medicine. Seeds are often used as fodder for livestock but are toxic to humans.
As its name not so cunningly suggests, a Snake Gourd is a gourd available in two varieties in the United States. Ornamental Snake Gourds are long, hard-shelled gourds grown as a curio in the garden, while its counterpart is an edible wax-skinned gourd (Trichosanthes cucumerina) that tastes much like a cucumber. Additional Snake Gourd info describes the interior of the striped, speckled fruit as being red, seeded and slightly slimy.
This cucurbit hails from the Asian tropics and is borne from a rapidly growing annual vine with fruit that can reach up to 6 feet (1.8 m) in length! You may also find it referred to as Snake Squash or Club Gourd, and it is often pickled with a texture akin to zucchini when young. It can be used just as a zucchini too — stuffed, baked, pickled, stir fried, and is delicious in all manner of curries and vegetarian dishes.
Extremely popular in Indian dishes, it’s no surprise that Snake Gourd has found its way into ayurvedic medicine, often used as a cooling ingredient. Seeds of the Snake Gourd were sent to Europe from China in 1720. They have long been known to the American and European community, but were never cultivated since the plant needs warm nights to fruit. Today, there is renewed interest in its cultivation due to the rapidly increasing Indian communities in these areas of the globe.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Snake Gourds grow in tropical regions, so a similar climate is ideal for cultivating Snake Gourds. For those of you lucky enough to enjoy a warmer, drier environment, growing these gourds in the home garden is well worth the attempt. Apparently, the rule of thumb is, if you can grow Lima Beans in your area, you can grow Snake Gourds.
First of all, Snake Gourds need a trellis or something that they can grow up — arbor, chain link fence, etc. Make sure the structure is sturdy due to the weight of the large gourds. Start the seeds indoors early after soaking overnight to increase germination time. Transplant outside much as you would bean plants in well mixed organic matter and topsoil.
Seeds can be saved for the following season but toss out any light colored or white seeds. Keep and plant many more seeds than you think you may need, as the germination rate is only about 60 percent.
Snake Gourd care is similar to that of most other gourds. Prune the plant’s lateral branches to increase fruit set and production. Some people tie a pebble or other weight to the flower end of the gourd to foster a straighter fruit, but this is just for aesthetics. There is no need to do so.
Harvest Snake Gourds when young, around 40-50 days from planting. The long varietals may then be ready when only 16-18 inches, while the shorter cultivars will be around 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) in length.
Fully ripe fruit is quite inedible, orange and mushy, although the red, jelly-like substance surrounding the seeds can be eaten much as a tomato sauce in recipes or used in ayurvedic medicine. Seeds are often used as fodder for livestock but are toxic to humans.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Phalaenopsis bellina (Rchb.f.) Christenson
Synonyms
Phalaenopsis violacea var. bellina
Scientific Classification
Family: Orchidaceae
Subfamily: Epidendroideae
Genus: Phalaenopsis
Subgenus: Phalaenopsis
Flower
Color: Green and purple
Bloom Time: Summer to fall
Description
Phalaenopsis bellina is a monopodial orchid. The leaves are a light green and appear to be very glossy and slightly wavy. With age they can grow up to 12 inches (30 cm) long and have a downward growth. Each year the orchid will produce 1 or 2 new leaves and the bottom leaves will dry and fall regularly. The flowers are displayed on a short and compact flower spike which emerges from between the leaves are elongates forward. They are waxy, green and purple, up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter and are usually produced above the leaves.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 11a to 12b: from 40 °F (+4.4 °C) to 60 °F (15.6 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Phalaenopsis are generally very rewarding plants. They are not demanding and, in the right conditions, they will reward the grower with months of showy blooms. It is vitally important, however, that water never be allowed to rest in the growing tip of the plant. This will cause the new leaves to rot, and the plant will die. Thus, they should only be watered in the morning. As with all Orchids, the higher the humidity and temperature, the greater the need for turbulent air flow to prevent rot, fungus and diseases. Successful growth means finding the right balance between humidity, temperature, light and air flow.
Phalaenopsis can be grown in most Orchid potting media, including chunks of pine bark, clay aggregate pellets, charcoal, perlite, sphagnum moss, and styrofoam. They can also be grown in hanging baskets or mounted on slabs in a greenhouse-type environment. As with all Epiphytic Orchids, they should be planted in free-draining containers. Repot Phalaenopsis in spring, after the bloom is done. Adult Phalaenopsis can often go for two years or more before they need to be repotted.
Origin
Native to Malaysia and Borneo.
Phalaenopsis bellina (Rchb.f.) Christenson
Synonyms
Phalaenopsis violacea var. bellina
Scientific Classification
Family: Orchidaceae
Subfamily: Epidendroideae
Genus: Phalaenopsis
Subgenus: Phalaenopsis
Flower
Color: Green and purple
Bloom Time: Summer to fall
Description
Phalaenopsis bellina is a monopodial orchid. The leaves are a light green and appear to be very glossy and slightly wavy. With age they can grow up to 12 inches (30 cm) long and have a downward growth. Each year the orchid will produce 1 or 2 new leaves and the bottom leaves will dry and fall regularly. The flowers are displayed on a short and compact flower spike which emerges from between the leaves are elongates forward. They are waxy, green and purple, up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter and are usually produced above the leaves.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 11a to 12b: from 40 °F (+4.4 °C) to 60 °F (15.6 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Phalaenopsis are generally very rewarding plants. They are not demanding and, in the right conditions, they will reward the grower with months of showy blooms. It is vitally important, however, that water never be allowed to rest in the growing tip of the plant. This will cause the new leaves to rot, and the plant will die. Thus, they should only be watered in the morning. As with all Orchids, the higher the humidity and temperature, the greater the need for turbulent air flow to prevent rot, fungus and diseases. Successful growth means finding the right balance between humidity, temperature, light and air flow.
Phalaenopsis can be grown in most Orchid potting media, including chunks of pine bark, clay aggregate pellets, charcoal, perlite, sphagnum moss, and styrofoam. They can also be grown in hanging baskets or mounted on slabs in a greenhouse-type environment. As with all Epiphytic Orchids, they should be planted in free-draining containers. Repot Phalaenopsis in spring, after the bloom is done. Adult Phalaenopsis can often go for two years or more before they need to be repotted.
Origin
Native to Malaysia and Borneo.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Gloriosa superba ‘Greenii’
Common Names
Gloriosa Lily, Climbing Lily
Synonyms
Gloriosa greenii
Scientific Classification
Family: Colchicaceae
Genus: Gloriosa
Flower
Color: Yellow-green
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Gloriosa superba ‘Greenii’ is a deciduous, summer-growing climber up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, with tuberous roots. The slender stems are produced annually and are upright to scrambling and can grow up to 13.3 feet (4 m) long. Tubers sprout in spring, and a tuber sends up 1 to 6 stems. The leaves are shiny, bright green and are tipped in a tendril, which will cling to anything it touches. The stems die back in late summer and the tubers are dormant during winter. The showy flowers are exotic yellow-green and are borne in summer. They are borne on long pedicels on the upper parts of the stems.
How to Grow and Care
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
Origin
Garden origin.
Gloriosa superba ‘Greenii’
Common Names
Gloriosa Lily, Climbing Lily
Synonyms
Gloriosa greenii
Scientific Classification
Family: Colchicaceae
Genus: Gloriosa
Flower
Color: Yellow-green
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Gloriosa superba ‘Greenii’ is a deciduous, summer-growing climber up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, with tuberous roots. The slender stems are produced annually and are upright to scrambling and can grow up to 13.3 feet (4 m) long. Tubers sprout in spring, and a tuber sends up 1 to 6 stems. The leaves are shiny, bright green and are tipped in a tendril, which will cling to anything it touches. The stems die back in late summer and the tubers are dormant during winter. The showy flowers are exotic yellow-green and are borne in summer. They are borne on long pedicels on the upper parts of the stems.
How to Grow and Care
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
Origin
Garden origin.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Acacias are graceful trees that grow in warm climates such as Hawaii, Mexico and the southwestern United States. The foliage is typically bright green or bluish-green and the small blooms may be creamy white, pale yellow or bright yellow. Acacia may be evergreen or deciduous.
Most Аcacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions. Many types of Аcacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Interestingly, stinging ants and Аcacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although Acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system.
During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water.
Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth.
Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
Most Аcacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions. Many types of Аcacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Interestingly, stinging ants and Аcacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although Acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system.
During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water.
Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth.
Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Greater Celandine (Chelidonium majus) is alovely shade loving perennial plant that is ideal for woodland settings. Will naturalize in woodlands and bring them to life in late spring with a mass of bright yellow flowers floating in blue-green foliage.
Once established these plants take little or no maintenance. It is a short lived perennial hardy to zone 6 but it will self seed in suitable surroundings and may take over an area if not watched. It likes a good moist soil, which is most often found in woodlands, but it will also grow on semi shaded walls and rock gardens. Ideal for rocky wooded locations. Due to the alkaloid content this plant is not eaten by deer or rabbits. All parts of the plant will exude a yellow/orange sap when broken. This can cause skin problems in some people. The plant is considered to be mildly poisonous.
It is reported that the leaves can be eaten if boiled well and water changed several times.
Greater Celandine has a long history of use in herbal medicine. The leaves and the sap are used most often as a mild sedative detoxifying and antispasmodic especially for relaxing the bronchial tubes, intestines and muscles as well as whooping cough, asthma, jaundice, gallstones and gallbladder pains. Caution should be taken when using this herb internally since it contains the many alkaloids that are considered toxic. The orange sap is used externally to treat warts, ringworm and corns as well as films from the cornea of the eye. The roots are also used and research has shown them to have possible anticancer properties.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Greater Celandine will grow in almost any soil except waterlogged but it does like a reasonable amount of water. Ideal plant for part or full shade but it will grow in full sun in lower zones (6 and 7) provided it has moisture. Prefers a rich woodland soil in semi shade with decent moisture. It is an excellent choice for growing on partially shaded walls or in rock gardens provided there is a pocket of soil to establish its roots. It is a short lived perennial but it will self seed in suitable locations, sometimes aggressively and will take over thin woodland areas if left alone.
Growing from Seed
Germination can be slow and erratic with some seeds taking up to twelve months to sprout. Can be sown in place in early spring or late fall. If choosing this approach keep weeds in the area to a minimum to allow seeds time to germinate and plants to establish. Once the first ones are established they often self seed and proliferate, but this can take several years to achieve. Seeds and also be started in pots. Individual pots with several seeds per pot or cell flats are recommended so seedlings can be removed as they grow without disturbing other seeds. Some will often germinate rapidly but others may not so patience is needed. Start indoors in later winter and remove plants as they become large enough to transplant. Place rest of growing medium outside in a semi shaded area and continue to water throughout the year picking out seedlings as they appear. It is best if they pots/flat are placed on a bench or shelf to reduce weed seed introduction to the growing medium. Trays can be left out over winter if all the seeds have still not germinated.
Harvesting
Greater Celandine plants are harvested during the spring when they begin to bloom. Herb can be used fresh or dried for later use. Roots are harvested in the fall when they are at their peak. These can also be dried for later use. It is highly recommended that gloves be worn when harvesting any of this plant from leaves, roots or seeds. The latex is mildly toxic and many people have a allergic reaction that can cause rashes and skin.
Once established these plants take little or no maintenance. It is a short lived perennial hardy to zone 6 but it will self seed in suitable surroundings and may take over an area if not watched. It likes a good moist soil, which is most often found in woodlands, but it will also grow on semi shaded walls and rock gardens. Ideal for rocky wooded locations. Due to the alkaloid content this plant is not eaten by deer or rabbits. All parts of the plant will exude a yellow/orange sap when broken. This can cause skin problems in some people. The plant is considered to be mildly poisonous.
It is reported that the leaves can be eaten if boiled well and water changed several times.
Greater Celandine has a long history of use in herbal medicine. The leaves and the sap are used most often as a mild sedative detoxifying and antispasmodic especially for relaxing the bronchial tubes, intestines and muscles as well as whooping cough, asthma, jaundice, gallstones and gallbladder pains. Caution should be taken when using this herb internally since it contains the many alkaloids that are considered toxic. The orange sap is used externally to treat warts, ringworm and corns as well as films from the cornea of the eye. The roots are also used and research has shown them to have possible anticancer properties.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Greater Celandine will grow in almost any soil except waterlogged but it does like a reasonable amount of water. Ideal plant for part or full shade but it will grow in full sun in lower zones (6 and 7) provided it has moisture. Prefers a rich woodland soil in semi shade with decent moisture. It is an excellent choice for growing on partially shaded walls or in rock gardens provided there is a pocket of soil to establish its roots. It is a short lived perennial but it will self seed in suitable locations, sometimes aggressively and will take over thin woodland areas if left alone.
Growing from Seed
Germination can be slow and erratic with some seeds taking up to twelve months to sprout. Can be sown in place in early spring or late fall. If choosing this approach keep weeds in the area to a minimum to allow seeds time to germinate and plants to establish. Once the first ones are established they often self seed and proliferate, but this can take several years to achieve. Seeds and also be started in pots. Individual pots with several seeds per pot or cell flats are recommended so seedlings can be removed as they grow without disturbing other seeds. Some will often germinate rapidly but others may not so patience is needed. Start indoors in later winter and remove plants as they become large enough to transplant. Place rest of growing medium outside in a semi shaded area and continue to water throughout the year picking out seedlings as they appear. It is best if they pots/flat are placed on a bench or shelf to reduce weed seed introduction to the growing medium. Trays can be left out over winter if all the seeds have still not germinated.
Harvesting
Greater Celandine plants are harvested during the spring when they begin to bloom. Herb can be used fresh or dried for later use. Roots are harvested in the fall when they are at their peak. These can also be dried for later use. It is highly recommended that gloves be worn when harvesting any of this plant from leaves, roots or seeds. The latex is mildly toxic and many people have a allergic reaction that can cause rashes and skin.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) is a broad leaf evergreen that grows and flowers well in full sun to part shade, making it a versatile shrub in the landscape. The broad, dark green leaves provide interest all year long. In spring clusters of cup-shaped flowers open in shade of white, pink and red. It’s a favorite of bees and butterflies.
The shrub grows naturally in the filtered light under tall deciduous trees such as oak and maple, especially near a wet, swampy area. It flowers best, though, with more sun in an open landscape, but the leaves may turn a yellow-green color in full sun.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Mountain Laurel is hardy to zone 5. In colder areas it will need to be protected in winter with burlap barriers to block the winter wind.
Purchase plants from your local garden center. Look for the hardiest varieties for cold areas. Plant shrubs from spring, after all danger of frost has passed, to summer in well drained, moist, acidic, cool soils. Avoid windy areas, if possible. Space plants 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) apart.
Propagation
Start seeds indoors in spring at 43 to 54 °F (6 to 12 °C). Take greenwood cuttings in late spring or semi-ripe cuttings in mid-summer. Layer in late summer.
Grower’s Tips
Keep young shrubs well watered. Keep the soil evenly moist and acidic with a layer of wood chips or evergreen bark mulch. Fertilize mountain laurel in spring with a plant food for acidic-loving plants such as you’d use for Rhododendrons.
Mountain Laurel will get spindly, develop leaf spots and have few flowers if grown in too much shade. Look for leaf spot resistant varieties if growing under these conditions. It also doesn’t grow well in poorly drained soils. It’s a slow grower that should only be pruned to shape the plant in spring after flowering. Dead, diseased and broken branches can be taken out at any time. Mountain laurel doesn’t have many pest problems.
The shrub grows naturally in the filtered light under tall deciduous trees such as oak and maple, especially near a wet, swampy area. It flowers best, though, with more sun in an open landscape, but the leaves may turn a yellow-green color in full sun.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Mountain Laurel is hardy to zone 5. In colder areas it will need to be protected in winter with burlap barriers to block the winter wind.
Purchase plants from your local garden center. Look for the hardiest varieties for cold areas. Plant shrubs from spring, after all danger of frost has passed, to summer in well drained, moist, acidic, cool soils. Avoid windy areas, if possible. Space plants 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m) apart.
Propagation
Start seeds indoors in spring at 43 to 54 °F (6 to 12 °C). Take greenwood cuttings in late spring or semi-ripe cuttings in mid-summer. Layer in late summer.
Grower’s Tips
Keep young shrubs well watered. Keep the soil evenly moist and acidic with a layer of wood chips or evergreen bark mulch. Fertilize mountain laurel in spring with a plant food for acidic-loving plants such as you’d use for Rhododendrons.
Mountain Laurel will get spindly, develop leaf spots and have few flowers if grown in too much shade. Look for leaf spot resistant varieties if growing under these conditions. It also doesn’t grow well in poorly drained soils. It’s a slow grower that should only be pruned to shape the plant in spring after flowering. Dead, diseased and broken branches can be taken out at any time. Mountain laurel doesn’t have many pest problems.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis sylvatica) make excellent indoor container plants, requiring little care to maintain their gray-green foliage and clusters of tiny, light-blue flowers that appear throughout spring and early summer. The plants perform best in moist but well-drained soil. So a light, standard potting mix works well. Because Forget-Me-Not require plenty of air circulation, grow each plant individually in its own 12-inch/-30 cm-diameter container with bottom drainage holes. The plants are pest-resistant and even grow in nutrient-poor soil. So fertilizing them isn’t necessary. Forget-Me-Not is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Place Forget-Me-Not in a south or east-facing window, where they receive full or partial sunlight.
Water the soil deeply when its top 3 inches (7.5 cm) feels dry to your touch, watering until the water drips through the bottom of the pots. Don’t allow the plants to stand in water. Reduce watering to about once or twice each month in winter, while the plants are dormant. Resume normal watering in spring.
Remove the plants’ spent, or old, flowers, at their stems, pinching them off with your fingernails. Throw away the removed flowers. Removing spent flowers encourages new blooms to form.
Fertilize the Forget-Me-Not once each month only if their leaves appear wilted or yellow or the plants grow very slowly during spring or summer. Mix 1 teaspoon of 5-10-10, water-soluble fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture to fertilize the plants in place of one watering session, applying only the amount you normally would use to water the plants. Don’t fertilize during winter while the plants are dormant.
Trim off all dead foliage and dead stems throughout the growing season as well as during winter after the plants die back. Use pruning shears or scissors for the task.
Propagation
If starting off Forget-Me-Not and other Myosotis plants indoors then start about 2 months in advance. The seeds of Forget-Me-Not should be sown in vermiculite. It will take from one to four weeks to germinate at 64 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 20 degrees Celsius) in the dark. It is necessary to water the Forget-Me-Nots from below to stop them rotting. Once seedlings are ready transplant into the garden and grow about 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart.
Pests and Diseases
Insects and disease are not too common. If problems arise, treat early with insecticides or fungicides as appropriate.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Place Forget-Me-Not in a south or east-facing window, where they receive full or partial sunlight.
Water the soil deeply when its top 3 inches (7.5 cm) feels dry to your touch, watering until the water drips through the bottom of the pots. Don’t allow the plants to stand in water. Reduce watering to about once or twice each month in winter, while the plants are dormant. Resume normal watering in spring.
Remove the plants’ spent, or old, flowers, at their stems, pinching them off with your fingernails. Throw away the removed flowers. Removing spent flowers encourages new blooms to form.
Fertilize the Forget-Me-Not once each month only if their leaves appear wilted or yellow or the plants grow very slowly during spring or summer. Mix 1 teaspoon of 5-10-10, water-soluble fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture to fertilize the plants in place of one watering session, applying only the amount you normally would use to water the plants. Don’t fertilize during winter while the plants are dormant.
Trim off all dead foliage and dead stems throughout the growing season as well as during winter after the plants die back. Use pruning shears or scissors for the task.
Propagation
If starting off Forget-Me-Not and other Myosotis plants indoors then start about 2 months in advance. The seeds of Forget-Me-Not should be sown in vermiculite. It will take from one to four weeks to germinate at 64 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 20 degrees Celsius) in the dark. It is necessary to water the Forget-Me-Nots from below to stop them rotting. Once seedlings are ready transplant into the garden and grow about 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart.
Pests and Diseases
Insects and disease are not too common. If problems arise, treat early with insecticides or fungicides as appropriate.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Geum is a perennial plant that holds its own in almost any flower border. Its low, deep green foliage is a pleasing backdrop for the tall stalks of dangling flowers that come in warm red, orange and yellow tones.
Also known as Avens, Geum grows in a small clump about 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) wide. While there are many wild species of Geum, gardeners typically grow the hybrid cultivars, which all have fluffy double blossoms, usually 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) in diameter, with many layers of petals. Geum flowers are held above the evergreen foliage on wiry stems, giving them a light, airy feeling. They flower profusely in spring and then sporadically throughout the summer.
Geum is also known for its seed heads. After the flowers fade, the seeds develop inside a unique structure with feathery gray tails.
With its elegant jewel-like flowers and attractive foliage, Geum is welcome in almost any garden bed or floral arrangement. It’s not a tough-as-nails plant, but with basic care and decent soil conditions it will thrive with little effort.
Growing Conditions
Geums flower best in a sunny position with average garden water. However, in really hot climates, afternoon shade is essential to keep the plants from being scorched. Good drainage is also important, as Geum is subject to root rot in wet conditions. Otherwise, they are very adaptable to different soil types.
Garden Uses
Geums are generally grown as a front of the border plant, where their low foliage and bright flowers make a cheerful edging to flower beds. Since it is a small plant, masses of one variety are very effective, though they can also be interspersed with other small-statured annuals and perennials for a cottage garden look. Geums are also excellent in potted arrangements and make great cut flowers.
Cultivation and Care
Geum is easily grown by seed sown indoors six to eight weeks before the average date of last frost. However, improved cultivars are readily available in garden centers, so most gardeners choose to start them as transplants. Plant them in good garden soil that has been enriched with compost. They are not considered drought-tolerant and will need weekly water throughout their life.
It’s important to note that Geums are short-lived perennials that require division every few years to renew the patch. Otherwise, they will naturally decline and disappear.
Bloom and Foliage Care
The bloom period can be prolonged somewhat by deadheading. However, the foliage is evergreen in all but the coldest climates and can be allowed to remain through the winter. If the leaves are nipped by the cold, simply cut the plants to the ground – they will re-emerge in spring.
Pests and Disease
Few pests or diseases trouble Geum. Root rot, particularly in winter, can be a problem in wet soils. Powdery mildew can turn up in dry soil, especially late in the season. In all cases, diseased Geum plants are a sign of improper growing conditions or simply the age of the plants. But as a short term fix, it’s worthwhile to remove the infected foliage and allow fresh leaves to regrow.
Also known as Avens, Geum grows in a small clump about 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) wide. While there are many wild species of Geum, gardeners typically grow the hybrid cultivars, which all have fluffy double blossoms, usually 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) in diameter, with many layers of petals. Geum flowers are held above the evergreen foliage on wiry stems, giving them a light, airy feeling. They flower profusely in spring and then sporadically throughout the summer.
Geum is also known for its seed heads. After the flowers fade, the seeds develop inside a unique structure with feathery gray tails.
With its elegant jewel-like flowers and attractive foliage, Geum is welcome in almost any garden bed or floral arrangement. It’s not a tough-as-nails plant, but with basic care and decent soil conditions it will thrive with little effort.
Growing Conditions
Geums flower best in a sunny position with average garden water. However, in really hot climates, afternoon shade is essential to keep the plants from being scorched. Good drainage is also important, as Geum is subject to root rot in wet conditions. Otherwise, they are very adaptable to different soil types.
Garden Uses
Geums are generally grown as a front of the border plant, where their low foliage and bright flowers make a cheerful edging to flower beds. Since it is a small plant, masses of one variety are very effective, though they can also be interspersed with other small-statured annuals and perennials for a cottage garden look. Geums are also excellent in potted arrangements and make great cut flowers.
Cultivation and Care
Geum is easily grown by seed sown indoors six to eight weeks before the average date of last frost. However, improved cultivars are readily available in garden centers, so most gardeners choose to start them as transplants. Plant them in good garden soil that has been enriched with compost. They are not considered drought-tolerant and will need weekly water throughout their life.
It’s important to note that Geums are short-lived perennials that require division every few years to renew the patch. Otherwise, they will naturally decline and disappear.
Bloom and Foliage Care
The bloom period can be prolonged somewhat by deadheading. However, the foliage is evergreen in all but the coldest climates and can be allowed to remain through the winter. If the leaves are nipped by the cold, simply cut the plants to the ground – they will re-emerge in spring.
Pests and Disease
Few pests or diseases trouble Geum. Root rot, particularly in winter, can be a problem in wet soils. Powdery mildew can turn up in dry soil, especially late in the season. In all cases, diseased Geum plants are a sign of improper growing conditions or simply the age of the plants. But as a short term fix, it’s worthwhile to remove the infected foliage and allow fresh leaves to regrow.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Nigella damascena L.
Common Names
Love-in-a-Mist, Ragged Lady, Devil-in-the-Bush, Jack-in-the-Green
Synonyms
Erobathos damascenum, Melanthium damascenum
Scientific Classification
Family: Ranunculaceae
Subfamily: Ranunculoideae
Tribe: Nigelleae
Genus: Nigella
Flower
Color: Different shades of Blue, but can be white, pink, or pale purple
Bloom Time: Early summer
Description
Nigella damascena is an annual, garden flowering plant up to 20 inches (50 cm) tall, with pinnately divided, thread-like, alternate leaves. The flowers, blooming in early summer, are most commonly different shades of blue, but can be white, pink, or pale purple, with 5 to 25 sepals. The actual petals are located at the base of the stamens and are minute and clawed. The sepals are the only colored part of the perianth. The 4 to 5 carpels of the compound pistil have each an erect style. The fruit is a large and inflated capsule, growing from a compound ovary, and is composed of several united follicles, each containing numerous seeds. The capsule becomes brown in late summer.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 2a to 11b: from −50 °F (−45.6 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Plant Nigella sativa seeds when no risk of frost exists. Sprouts appear in one to two weeks and flowers in about two to three months later.
Test the soil pH with a home kit two to three months before the desired planting date to verify the pH is slightly acidic with a value of 6.0 to 7.0. Work ground rock sulfur into the soil to lower the pH if needed. Follow the package application rate based on the current pH.
Let the soil rest for two to three months to give the amendment time to change the pH. Work 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic compost into the planting area to a depth of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Compost increases the nutrient value of the soil and is a natural fertilizer.
Sprinkle the Nigella sativa seeds lightly over the planting area. Sprinkle about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (8 to 13 mm) of soil over the seeds. Pat the soil gently to hold the seeds in place.
Origin
Native to southern Europe (but adventive in more northern countries of Europe), north Africa and southwest Asia, where it is found on neglected, damp patches of land.
Nigella damascena L.
Common Names
Love-in-a-Mist, Ragged Lady, Devil-in-the-Bush, Jack-in-the-Green
Synonyms
Erobathos damascenum, Melanthium damascenum
Scientific Classification
Family: Ranunculaceae
Subfamily: Ranunculoideae
Tribe: Nigelleae
Genus: Nigella
Flower
Color: Different shades of Blue, but can be white, pink, or pale purple
Bloom Time: Early summer
Description
Nigella damascena is an annual, garden flowering plant up to 20 inches (50 cm) tall, with pinnately divided, thread-like, alternate leaves. The flowers, blooming in early summer, are most commonly different shades of blue, but can be white, pink, or pale purple, with 5 to 25 sepals. The actual petals are located at the base of the stamens and are minute and clawed. The sepals are the only colored part of the perianth. The 4 to 5 carpels of the compound pistil have each an erect style. The fruit is a large and inflated capsule, growing from a compound ovary, and is composed of several united follicles, each containing numerous seeds. The capsule becomes brown in late summer.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 2a to 11b: from −50 °F (−45.6 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Plant Nigella sativa seeds when no risk of frost exists. Sprouts appear in one to two weeks and flowers in about two to three months later.
Test the soil pH with a home kit two to three months before the desired planting date to verify the pH is slightly acidic with a value of 6.0 to 7.0. Work ground rock sulfur into the soil to lower the pH if needed. Follow the package application rate based on the current pH.
Let the soil rest for two to three months to give the amendment time to change the pH. Work 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic compost into the planting area to a depth of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Compost increases the nutrient value of the soil and is a natural fertilizer.
Sprinkle the Nigella sativa seeds lightly over the planting area. Sprinkle about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (8 to 13 mm) of soil over the seeds. Pat the soil gently to hold the seeds in place.
Origin
Native to southern Europe (but adventive in more northern countries of Europe), north Africa and southwest Asia, where it is found on neglected, damp patches of land.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Eutrochium purpureum (L.) E. E. Lamont
Common Names
Kidney Root, Sweetscented Joe Pie Weed, Sweet Joe Pye Weed, Gravel Root, Trumpet Weed, Green Stem Joe Pye Weed, Joe Pye, Joe Pyeweed, Marsh Milkweed, Queen of the Meadow, Sweet Joe Pyeweed, Sweet Scent Joe Pyeweed
Synonyms
Cunigunda purpurea, Eupatoriadelphus purpureus, Eupatoriadelphus purpureus var. purpureus, Eupatorium falcatum, Eupatorium fuscorubrum, Eupatorium harnedii, Eupatorium holzingeri, Eupatorium purpureum subsp. purpureum, Eupatorium purpureum f. purpureum, Eupatorium trifoliatum, Eupatorium trifoliatum var. trifoliatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Eupatorieae
Genus: Eutrochium
Flower
Color: Purplish-pink
Bloom Time: Mid to late summer
Description
Eutrochium purpureum is a clump forming perennial, up to 8 feet (2.4 m) tall and up to 4 feet (1.2 m) wide. The stems are upright, thick, round, and purple, with whorls of leaves at each node. Leaves are lance-shaped, sometimes purple-tinged, up to 12 inches (30 cm) long and have a somewhat wrinkled texture. The flowers are tiny, vanilla-scented, dull pinkish-purple in color, in large, terminal, domed, compound inflorescences, Plants bloom in mid to late summer.
How to Grow and Care
Sweet Joe Pye Weed is happiest with full sun to part shade in moist to wet soils. It prefers that the soil does not dry out which is why clay works well for Joe Pye. It has no serious insect or disease problems. Sweet Joe Pye Weed just isn’t a fussy or difficult plant to grow. If you do not want Sweet Joe Pye Weed to spread hither and yon, then cut the seed heads off. If you are propagating by seed in the fall, then plant thickly as germination is usually low. Propagation is best from softwood cuttings taken in late spring or by division in fall as they go dormant, or in the spring just as shoots first appear.
Uses
Sweet Joe Pye Weed has such a rich history for healing. This plant is said to get its name from Joe Pye, who was an Indian healer from New England during the time of the Pilgrims. He is said to have used Eupatorium purpureum to treat a variety of ailments including deadly typhus outbreaks. The entire plant is still used as an alternative medicine. The roots are the strongest part of the plant for healing. If you crush the leaves, they have an apple scent. Once dried they are burned to repel flies. Tea made from this plant is used as alternative medicine for fever, urinary tract problems, fever, rheumatism, gallstones, and fluid retention.
Origin
Native to northwest, eastern and central North America.
Eutrochium purpureum (L.) E. E. Lamont
Common Names
Kidney Root, Sweetscented Joe Pie Weed, Sweet Joe Pye Weed, Gravel Root, Trumpet Weed, Green Stem Joe Pye Weed, Joe Pye, Joe Pyeweed, Marsh Milkweed, Queen of the Meadow, Sweet Joe Pyeweed, Sweet Scent Joe Pyeweed
Synonyms
Cunigunda purpurea, Eupatoriadelphus purpureus, Eupatoriadelphus purpureus var. purpureus, Eupatorium falcatum, Eupatorium fuscorubrum, Eupatorium harnedii, Eupatorium holzingeri, Eupatorium purpureum subsp. purpureum, Eupatorium purpureum f. purpureum, Eupatorium trifoliatum, Eupatorium trifoliatum var. trifoliatum
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Subfamily: Asteroideae
Tribe: Eupatorieae
Genus: Eutrochium
Flower
Color: Purplish-pink
Bloom Time: Mid to late summer
Description
Eutrochium purpureum is a clump forming perennial, up to 8 feet (2.4 m) tall and up to 4 feet (1.2 m) wide. The stems are upright, thick, round, and purple, with whorls of leaves at each node. Leaves are lance-shaped, sometimes purple-tinged, up to 12 inches (30 cm) long and have a somewhat wrinkled texture. The flowers are tiny, vanilla-scented, dull pinkish-purple in color, in large, terminal, domed, compound inflorescences, Plants bloom in mid to late summer.
How to Grow and Care
Sweet Joe Pye Weed is happiest with full sun to part shade in moist to wet soils. It prefers that the soil does not dry out which is why clay works well for Joe Pye. It has no serious insect or disease problems. Sweet Joe Pye Weed just isn’t a fussy or difficult plant to grow. If you do not want Sweet Joe Pye Weed to spread hither and yon, then cut the seed heads off. If you are propagating by seed in the fall, then plant thickly as germination is usually low. Propagation is best from softwood cuttings taken in late spring or by division in fall as they go dormant, or in the spring just as shoots first appear.
Uses
Sweet Joe Pye Weed has such a rich history for healing. This plant is said to get its name from Joe Pye, who was an Indian healer from New England during the time of the Pilgrims. He is said to have used Eupatorium purpureum to treat a variety of ailments including deadly typhus outbreaks. The entire plant is still used as an alternative medicine. The roots are the strongest part of the plant for healing. If you crush the leaves, they have an apple scent. Once dried they are burned to repel flies. Tea made from this plant is used as alternative medicine for fever, urinary tract problems, fever, rheumatism, gallstones, and fluid retention.
Origin
Native to northwest, eastern and central North America.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Cirsium arvense (L.) Scop.
Common Names
Creeping Thistle, Canada Thistle, Canadian Thistle, Lettuce from Hell Thistle, California Thistle, Corn Thistle, Cursed Thistle, Field Thistle, Green Thistle, Hard Thistle, Perennial Thistle, Prickly Thistle, Small-flowered Thistle, Way Thistle, Stinger Needles
Synonyms
Cirsium arvense subsp. arvense, Cirsium arvense var. arvense, Breea arvensis, Breea dioica, Breea ochrolepidia, Breea praealta, Breea setosa, Carduus arvensis, Carduus haemorrhoidalis, Carduus neglectus, Carduus segetum, Carduus serratuloides, Carduus setosus, Cephalonoplos arvense, Cephalonoplos arvensis, Cephalonoplos ochrolepidium, Cephalonoplos segetum, Cephalonoplos setosus, Cirsium albicans, Cirsium albiflorum, Cirsium argenteum, Cirsium argunense, Cirsium x celakovskianum, Cirsium dioicum, Cirsium halophilum, Cirsium horridum, Cirsium incanum, Cirsium laevigatum, Cirsium macrostylon, Cirsium mutatum, Cirsium neglectum, Cirsium ochrolepidium, Cirsium praealtum, Cirsium ruthenicum, Cirsium setosum, Cirsium sordidum, Cirsium stocksii, Cnicus arvensis, Cnicus candicans, Cnicus lanatus, Cnicus macrostylus, Cnicus neglectus, Cnicus ruthenicus, Cnicus setosus, Cynara repens, Serratula arvensis, Serratula incana, Serratula setosa
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Tribe: Cynareae
Genus: Cirsium
Flower
Color: Purple to white
Bloom Time: Late June to August
Description
Cirsium arvense is an erect, perennial herbaceous plant, up to 4 feet (1.2 m) tall with an extensive creeping rootstock and ridged and hairy stems. The leaves are lance-shaped, irregularly lobed, up to 6 inches (15 cm) long with weakly to strongly prickled margins. The flowers are purple to white, up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) long and 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) across. Flowering occurs in late June to August. The seeds are called achenes, up to 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) long and have a feathery pappus.
How to Grow and Care
The seeds of Cirsium can be sown in either autumn or after the last frost of spring. They should be sown at a depth of 0.12 inch (3 mm). If grown indoors first then Cirsium takes about 2 to 3 weeks to germinate at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 24 degrees Celsius). The seedlings should be planted out in early spring, when it is still possible to get a frost with a spacing of about 2 feet (60 cm).
Cirisium thrives in full sun and poor, average or reach soil that is moist but well drained. Plants require little care, but deadheading limits their tendency to self-sow. they generally self-sow only in moderation and unlike weedy thistles, the seedlings are easy to pull up. Use Thistles in mixed beds, herb gardens or meadowlike plantings.
Origin
Native throughout Europe and northern Asia, and widely introduced elsewhere.
Cirsium arvense (L.) Scop.
Common Names
Creeping Thistle, Canada Thistle, Canadian Thistle, Lettuce from Hell Thistle, California Thistle, Corn Thistle, Cursed Thistle, Field Thistle, Green Thistle, Hard Thistle, Perennial Thistle, Prickly Thistle, Small-flowered Thistle, Way Thistle, Stinger Needles
Synonyms
Cirsium arvense subsp. arvense, Cirsium arvense var. arvense, Breea arvensis, Breea dioica, Breea ochrolepidia, Breea praealta, Breea setosa, Carduus arvensis, Carduus haemorrhoidalis, Carduus neglectus, Carduus segetum, Carduus serratuloides, Carduus setosus, Cephalonoplos arvense, Cephalonoplos arvensis, Cephalonoplos ochrolepidium, Cephalonoplos segetum, Cephalonoplos setosus, Cirsium albicans, Cirsium albiflorum, Cirsium argenteum, Cirsium argunense, Cirsium x celakovskianum, Cirsium dioicum, Cirsium halophilum, Cirsium horridum, Cirsium incanum, Cirsium laevigatum, Cirsium macrostylon, Cirsium mutatum, Cirsium neglectum, Cirsium ochrolepidium, Cirsium praealtum, Cirsium ruthenicum, Cirsium setosum, Cirsium sordidum, Cirsium stocksii, Cnicus arvensis, Cnicus candicans, Cnicus lanatus, Cnicus macrostylus, Cnicus neglectus, Cnicus ruthenicus, Cnicus setosus, Cynara repens, Serratula arvensis, Serratula incana, Serratula setosa
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Tribe: Cynareae
Genus: Cirsium
Flower
Color: Purple to white
Bloom Time: Late June to August
Description
Cirsium arvense is an erect, perennial herbaceous plant, up to 4 feet (1.2 m) tall with an extensive creeping rootstock and ridged and hairy stems. The leaves are lance-shaped, irregularly lobed, up to 6 inches (15 cm) long with weakly to strongly prickled margins. The flowers are purple to white, up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) long and 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) across. Flowering occurs in late June to August. The seeds are called achenes, up to 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) long and have a feathery pappus.
How to Grow and Care
The seeds of Cirsium can be sown in either autumn or after the last frost of spring. They should be sown at a depth of 0.12 inch (3 mm). If grown indoors first then Cirsium takes about 2 to 3 weeks to germinate at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 24 degrees Celsius). The seedlings should be planted out in early spring, when it is still possible to get a frost with a spacing of about 2 feet (60 cm).
Cirisium thrives in full sun and poor, average or reach soil that is moist but well drained. Plants require little care, but deadheading limits their tendency to self-sow. they generally self-sow only in moderation and unlike weedy thistles, the seedlings are easy to pull up. Use Thistles in mixed beds, herb gardens or meadowlike plantings.
Origin
Native throughout Europe and northern Asia, and widely introduced elsewhere.
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求助
plant_boi
2017年09月24日
I'm getting a Succulent or two so I can liven up my room a touch and see just how green my thumb is. Any basic tips on caring for Succulents? Thank you :)
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rebeccamee：Water them when the soil dries out. Make sure they have enough sunlight.
lrgarden：Less water more sunshine
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Reversion of variegated leaves occurs in many types of plants. This is when the white shading or lighter speckles and borders turn into green. This is frustrating to many gardeners, as the variegated forms of plants provide increased interest, brighten dim areas and are bred specifically to enhance this trait. Variegation loss in plants may be due to lighting, seasonality or other factors. It is not possible to reverse loss of variegation, but you can usually keep it from taking over an entire plant.
Reversion of Variegated Leaves
Variegation may be the result of a natural anomaly or carefully engineered breeding. Whichever, the case, variegated leaves may turn completely green for a number of reasons. The coloring results from unstable changes in the leaf’s cells. One of the most common variegated plant problems is limited chlorophyll in the leaves. Less chlorophyll means less solar energy, as it is a primary component in photosynthesis. Variegated plants are less vigorous than green specimens are. The tendency for reversion of variegated leaves is a protective adaptation that allows the plant to return to a more successful form.
Why Does Variegation Disappear?
Loss of variegation is a frustrating condition for the gardener. Why does variegation disappear? The plant may do it as a survival tactic. It may also occur due to another leaf cell mutation. Variegated plants growing in shady or semi-shady locations are really at a disadvantage. Not only do they have low levels of chlorophyll, but they are not even exposed to adequate light. This scenario lends itself to reversion of variegated leaves.
Variegation loss in plants could also be spurred by changes in heat or cold. If the weather is unfavorable to a particular plant, it may revert just to get a competitive advantage. Once the leaves revert to all green, the plant can increase its harvest of solar energy, which in turn gives it more fuel to produce bigger and stronger growth. Waterlogged plants may also turn back and new shoots often come out green.
Variegated Plant Problems
Variegated plants tend to be less hearty and vigorous as compared to their completely green cousins. They have no more or less general problems, but some plants can produce albino growth. This type of growth cannot gather solar energy and will eventually die back. If all the new growth becomes albino, the plant will not survive. This is the very opposite of the reversion process.
Variegated plants also have smaller leaves, less tolerance to shady areas and yet a tendency to burn in hot sun, and slower growth. Most plants will only revert on stem, branch or other area. You can cut these off to try to prevent the entire plant from reverting. This usually works to slow the production of green leaf cells. If that doesn’t work, embrace your healthy, beautiful green chimera of a plant.
Reversion of Variegated Leaves
Variegation may be the result of a natural anomaly or carefully engineered breeding. Whichever, the case, variegated leaves may turn completely green for a number of reasons. The coloring results from unstable changes in the leaf’s cells. One of the most common variegated plant problems is limited chlorophyll in the leaves. Less chlorophyll means less solar energy, as it is a primary component in photosynthesis. Variegated plants are less vigorous than green specimens are. The tendency for reversion of variegated leaves is a protective adaptation that allows the plant to return to a more successful form.
Why Does Variegation Disappear?
Loss of variegation is a frustrating condition for the gardener. Why does variegation disappear? The plant may do it as a survival tactic. It may also occur due to another leaf cell mutation. Variegated plants growing in shady or semi-shady locations are really at a disadvantage. Not only do they have low levels of chlorophyll, but they are not even exposed to adequate light. This scenario lends itself to reversion of variegated leaves.
Variegation loss in plants could also be spurred by changes in heat or cold. If the weather is unfavorable to a particular plant, it may revert just to get a competitive advantage. Once the leaves revert to all green, the plant can increase its harvest of solar energy, which in turn gives it more fuel to produce bigger and stronger growth. Waterlogged plants may also turn back and new shoots often come out green.
Variegated Plant Problems
Variegated plants tend to be less hearty and vigorous as compared to their completely green cousins. They have no more or less general problems, but some plants can produce albino growth. This type of growth cannot gather solar energy and will eventually die back. If all the new growth becomes albino, the plant will not survive. This is the very opposite of the reversion process.
Variegated plants also have smaller leaves, less tolerance to shady areas and yet a tendency to burn in hot sun, and slower growth. Most plants will only revert on stem, branch or other area. You can cut these off to try to prevent the entire plant from reverting. This usually works to slow the production of green leaf cells. If that doesn’t work, embrace your healthy, beautiful green chimera of a plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
We all dream of a lush green garden or flower beds. Unfortunately, sometimes nature does not always comply with this dream. It can start with just a few leaves dropping off a plant or two, then the next thing you know, you’re looking at nothing but bare branches and stems in your garden. There can be many reasons for this defoliation of plants. Read on to learn what causes defoliation and the effects of defoliation in the garden.
What Causes Defoliation?
Defoliation is defined as a widespread loss of leaves or stripping of leaves on a plant. There are many things that can cause this, such as grazing animals like deer or rabbits, insect infestation, disease or chemical run off from herbicides.
If your plant is suddenly losing all its leaves, you should check it over thoroughly. Look for signs of chewing from animals or insects as well as signs of disease like spots, blisters, mildews and molds. Also, think about any chemical treatment that has been done near the plant. If the plant losing its leaves is a tree, you may want to call a certified arborist to diagnose it.
Effects of Defoliation
Plants have most of their photosynthesis cells in their leaves. Therefore, defoliated plants are not able to convert sunlight into energy. The effects of defoliation can cause stunted or malformed plants and even death to the plant. Woody plants can often tolerate defoliation better because they store reserve energy in their trunks and branches; however, repeated defoliation can lead to their demise as well.
Treating Defoliated Plants in the Garden
After inspecting your defoliated plants, you may have a good idea of what is causing the lack of leaves. If you suspect it is animal damage, there are animal deterrent products you can try. I make a homemade rabbit deterrent by boiling garlic, onions, cloves, cinnamon, crushed red pepper and marigolds in water. I then strain this mixture and spray the infused water all around areas where rabbits seem to frequent. This homemade remedy, like store bought products, works for a while but need to be reapplied. In cases where animals have killed the entire plant or just won’t leave it alone, you may need to replace the plant with a deer resistant plant.
If you see insects eating the foliage off your plants, select the proper insecticide for the insect you are seeing. Be sure to thoroughly spray the plant, getting the undersides of any remaining leaves. Some insecticides are systemic, meaning you can just water them in at the plant base and the plant will suck them up, protecting the whole plant from the inside out. Disease is a harder cause of defoliation to diagnose. Usually, you will see brown or black spots, streaking on the stems, deformed leaves or stems, or a powdery or fuzzy substance on the plant. Try copper fungicide to treat disease. There are also products for ornamental shrubs that have insecticide and fungicide in one product.
What Causes Defoliation?
Defoliation is defined as a widespread loss of leaves or stripping of leaves on a plant. There are many things that can cause this, such as grazing animals like deer or rabbits, insect infestation, disease or chemical run off from herbicides.
If your plant is suddenly losing all its leaves, you should check it over thoroughly. Look for signs of chewing from animals or insects as well as signs of disease like spots, blisters, mildews and molds. Also, think about any chemical treatment that has been done near the plant. If the plant losing its leaves is a tree, you may want to call a certified arborist to diagnose it.
Effects of Defoliation
Plants have most of their photosynthesis cells in their leaves. Therefore, defoliated plants are not able to convert sunlight into energy. The effects of defoliation can cause stunted or malformed plants and even death to the plant. Woody plants can often tolerate defoliation better because they store reserve energy in their trunks and branches; however, repeated defoliation can lead to their demise as well.
Treating Defoliated Plants in the Garden
After inspecting your defoliated plants, you may have a good idea of what is causing the lack of leaves. If you suspect it is animal damage, there are animal deterrent products you can try. I make a homemade rabbit deterrent by boiling garlic, onions, cloves, cinnamon, crushed red pepper and marigolds in water. I then strain this mixture and spray the infused water all around areas where rabbits seem to frequent. This homemade remedy, like store bought products, works for a while but need to be reapplied. In cases where animals have killed the entire plant or just won’t leave it alone, you may need to replace the plant with a deer resistant plant.
If you see insects eating the foliage off your plants, select the proper insecticide for the insect you are seeing. Be sure to thoroughly spray the plant, getting the undersides of any remaining leaves. Some insecticides are systemic, meaning you can just water them in at the plant base and the plant will suck them up, protecting the whole plant from the inside out. Disease is a harder cause of defoliation to diagnose. Usually, you will see brown or black spots, streaking on the stems, deformed leaves or stems, or a powdery or fuzzy substance on the plant. Try copper fungicide to treat disease. There are also products for ornamental shrubs that have insecticide and fungicide in one product.
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