文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Commonly called Zebra Plant, Haworthia attenuata is a cold-sensitive succulent species grown for its eye-catching, green and white textured leaves. It is hardy within U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 10 and above and will produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, once established in a sunny bed. The offshoots provide a simple and highly effective means of propagating new Zebra Plants if they are carefully removed and potted in a suitable growing mix. However, they should only be removed in spring or autumn when the plant is not actively growing, to reduce stress to both the offshoots and the parent plant.
Locate the rooted offsets around the base of the zebra plant. Carefully scrape away the soil from around the base of the offshoots and look for small, pale pink or white roots.
Insert the blade of a gardening knife into the soil midway between the parent plant and the rooted offshoot. Slide the blade through the soil to sever the connecting root.
Etch out a 2-inch radius in the soil around the base of the rooted offshoot using the tip of your gardening knife. Dig down along the radial line to a 5-inch depth using a small handheld spade.
Insert the blade of the handheld spade at an angle underneath the rooted offshoot. Carefully pry it loose from the soil and remove it. Fill in the hole left by the offshoot to protect the parent plant’s roots.
Crumble off half the soil from around the offshoot’s rootball. Pot it in a small, 3- to 4-inch nursery container. Use a potting mix made up of 2 parts perlite, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part sterile compost.
Place the potted zebra plant offshoot where it will receive bright, diffuse light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in a glasshouse, cold frame or indoors near a south-facing window.
Withhold watering for the first three days. Water only until the soil feels barely moist in the top inch. Maintain light, even moisture in the soil mixture, but allow it to dry out for a day or so once a week.
Remove Offsets From a Zebra Plant
Things You Will Need
Garden knife
Handheld spade
3- or 4-inch nursery container
Perlite
Coarse sand
Sterile compost
Tip
Unrooted Zebra Plant offsets can be rooted in pure perlite or coarse sand before planting, but they are subject to a high rate of die-off.
Locate the rooted offsets around the base of the zebra plant. Carefully scrape away the soil from around the base of the offshoots and look for small, pale pink or white roots.
Insert the blade of a gardening knife into the soil midway between the parent plant and the rooted offshoot. Slide the blade through the soil to sever the connecting root.
Etch out a 2-inch radius in the soil around the base of the rooted offshoot using the tip of your gardening knife. Dig down along the radial line to a 5-inch depth using a small handheld spade.
Insert the blade of the handheld spade at an angle underneath the rooted offshoot. Carefully pry it loose from the soil and remove it. Fill in the hole left by the offshoot to protect the parent plant’s roots.
Crumble off half the soil from around the offshoot’s rootball. Pot it in a small, 3- to 4-inch nursery container. Use a potting mix made up of 2 parts perlite, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part sterile compost.
Place the potted zebra plant offshoot where it will receive bright, diffuse light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in a glasshouse, cold frame or indoors near a south-facing window.
Withhold watering for the first three days. Water only until the soil feels barely moist in the top inch. Maintain light, even moisture in the soil mixture, but allow it to dry out for a day or so once a week.
Remove Offsets From a Zebra Plant
Things You Will Need
Garden knife
Handheld spade
3- or 4-inch nursery container
Perlite
Coarse sand
Sterile compost
Tip
Unrooted Zebra Plant offsets can be rooted in pure perlite or coarse sand before planting, but they are subject to a high rate of die-off.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Aloe aristata, also known as Lace Aloe, is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant. It is a stemless, up to 12 inches (30 cm) tall, clump-forming succulent with dense rosettes of stubby, lance-shaped, toothed, white-margined, dark green leaves, up to 4 inches (10 cm) long, with small white spots and soft white spines, particularly beneath. In the fall, produces terminal panicles, up to 20 inches (50 cm) tall, 2 to 6 branched, bearing cylindrical, orange-red flowers, up to 1.5 inches (4 cm) long.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 50°F (10°C).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Fertilizing: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Potting and Repotting
Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
General Care
In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners. They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden. This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Propagation
Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose. Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Pests and Problems
Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases. Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer. Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 50°F (10°C).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Fertilizing: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Potting and Repotting
Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
General Care
In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners. They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden. This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Propagation
Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose. Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Pests and Problems
Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases. Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer. Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dorstenia are a strange caudex forming genus of plants from north east Africa. They tend to spread out along the base, just above the soil and have some to many branches pointing upward. They usually have attractive green non-succulent leaves of various shapes depending on the species. Some species have sunflower like flowers that spray seeds all over your greenhouse. Small Dorstenia plants pop up in other pots. Dorstenia foetida does this and is the most common species found in the market place. However, most of the other species are extremely rare and somewhat difficult to grow. Dorstenia gigas, from the island of Socotra in the Arabian Sea, prefers a mild humid, but not rainy, coastal climate. It will wilt if exposed for extended periods to excessively high or low temperatures. Below is a short list of highly sought after Dorstenia species.
Growing Conditions
Light: They needs bright light or partial to full shade.
Water: During the growing season, Dorstenia appreciate a fair amount of water but allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, making sure that they never dry out completely. During winter months they should be given very little water.
Hardiness Zones: 10b – 12b
Soil: Well-drained soil mix that must not remain soggy for too long.
Fertilizer: They are fertilized once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to 1/2 the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation
Usually propagated by seed. Many species are self-fertile. Their seeds are expelled explosively from the mature seed heads and liable to populate pots several feet away. They can also be propagated by cuttings.
Pests and Problems
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours, and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases, which should be treated pre-emptively with a systemic fungicide.
At the end of the winter we suggest a wide range insecticide to prevent the attack of aphids and cochineals.
Grower’s Tips
Dorstenias are warm loving plants and they need a bit more water than regular succulents. They need well-drained soil mix and their water needs vary depending on the season of the year. Water regularly to abundant form spring to autumn. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, but make sure that they never dry out completely. During the winter months they tend to go at least partially dormant. During this period, water very little. Giving plants a warm, sunny position can result in beautiful compact growing plants. Fertilizing plants once in a while during their growing period with a high potash and phosphorus fertilizer is recommended.
Growing Conditions
Light: They needs bright light or partial to full shade.
Water: During the growing season, Dorstenia appreciate a fair amount of water but allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, making sure that they never dry out completely. During winter months they should be given very little water.
Hardiness Zones: 10b – 12b
Soil: Well-drained soil mix that must not remain soggy for too long.
Fertilizer: They are fertilized once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to 1/2 the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation
Usually propagated by seed. Many species are self-fertile. Their seeds are expelled explosively from the mature seed heads and liable to populate pots several feet away. They can also be propagated by cuttings.
Pests and Problems
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours, and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases, which should be treated pre-emptively with a systemic fungicide.
At the end of the winter we suggest a wide range insecticide to prevent the attack of aphids and cochineals.
Grower’s Tips
Dorstenias are warm loving plants and they need a bit more water than regular succulents. They need well-drained soil mix and their water needs vary depending on the season of the year. Water regularly to abundant form spring to autumn. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, but make sure that they never dry out completely. During the winter months they tend to go at least partially dormant. During this period, water very little. Giving plants a warm, sunny position can result in beautiful compact growing plants. Fertilizing plants once in a while during their growing period with a high potash and phosphorus fertilizer is recommended.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Originally from Africa, the Jade Tree (Crassula ovata) is a fleshy, softly woody shrub or small tree up to 10 feet (3 m). The Jade Tree has a thick trunk and a fine branch structure with thick oval green succulent leaves. During autumn sometimes small white flowers appear, but only when the tree has experienced droughts in the season. The bark is green and soft when young, becoming red-brown when it ages.
Specific Bonsai Care Guidelines for the Jade Tree
Position: The Jade Tree is considered an indoor tree in most temperate zones, although it can be grown outdoors in full sun (and sufficiently high temperatures). Keep temperatures above 41ºF (5 ºC) at all times. It needs lots of light or even full sun.
Watering: Jade Trees can hold large amounts of water inside their leaves. Water sparsely and allow the plant to dry out a little bit between watering. During winter time watering can be as seldom as once every three weeks. The Jade Tree is not as particular about over-watering as most other succulents.
Feeding: Once a month during the growth season (spring-autumn).
Pruning: As a succulent, water is contained its trunk and branches; they tend to bend from their weight. Jades respond well to pruning, which should be done regularly to force the tree to grow branches also lower on its trunk. Do not use cut-paste though, as this might lead to rotting.
Repotting: Repot the three every second year in spring, using a very well-draining soil mixture.
Propagation: Easy to propagate using cuttings during the summer.
Specific Bonsai Care Guidelines for the Jade Tree
Position: The Jade Tree is considered an indoor tree in most temperate zones, although it can be grown outdoors in full sun (and sufficiently high temperatures). Keep temperatures above 41ºF (5 ºC) at all times. It needs lots of light or even full sun.
Watering: Jade Trees can hold large amounts of water inside their leaves. Water sparsely and allow the plant to dry out a little bit between watering. During winter time watering can be as seldom as once every three weeks. The Jade Tree is not as particular about over-watering as most other succulents.
Feeding: Once a month during the growth season (spring-autumn).
Pruning: As a succulent, water is contained its trunk and branches; they tend to bend from their weight. Jades respond well to pruning, which should be done regularly to force the tree to grow branches also lower on its trunk. Do not use cut-paste though, as this might lead to rotting.
Repotting: Repot the three every second year in spring, using a very well-draining soil mixture.
Propagation: Easy to propagate using cuttings during the summer.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
If you’re lucky, you could receive a Christmas Cactus as a gift this holiday season. This common house plant blooms during the Christmas season, but its long green arms are attractive throughout the year. With cultivars in a rainbow of colors, it is a plant worthy of appreciation. These 10 facts about Christmas Cacti will help you to care for your plant if you happen to receive one this holiday season.
1. It’s called a “cactus”, but it thrives in cooler temperatures. Christmas Cacti need to be kept away from heat sources. According to the Purdue University Extension Service, a Christmas Cactus will blossom longer when exposed to only cooler temperatures. For best results, keep your Christmas Cactus in a cool place (away from heaters and fireplaces) where there are not frequent drafts (right next to a frequently used door would not be a good place). Big changes in temperature can cause the blooms to drop off the plant before they open. The optimal temperature for Christmas Cacti is 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius).
2. Christmas Cacti need light to bloom. According to Purdue University Extension Service, keeping your Christmas Cactus plants in a sunny location indoors is the key to prolonged blooms. However, if you move them outside during the summer, you’ll have the most success in a partially shaded location, as too much direct light can burn the leaves.
3. The Christmas Cactus is native to Brazil. These epiphytes (a plant that grows on top of another plant non-parasitically) grow in the Brazilian rain forest, among tree branches, according to Clemson University Cooperative Extension. Since they are tropical plants, they thrive in humid conditions.
4. Christmas Cacti need their beauty sleep. The horticulture experts at the Cheyenne Botanic Gardens recommend setting your Christmas Cactus in a room where you never turn the lights on at night. In order for the flower buds to set, Christmas Cacti need 14 hours or more of continuous darkness per day. However, after the flower buds have set, Christmas Cacti can withstand lights on at night.
5. Unlike the other Christmas favorite, Poinsettia, Christmas Cactus is not toxic to dogs and cats. Poinsettia is famously poisonous to dogs and cats. However, according to the ASPCA, if Fido or Fluffy nibbles on a Christmas Cactus, she should not experience irritation or vomiting like she would from the sap of the Poinsettia.
6. Christmas Cactus can live for 20 to 30 years. Can you imagine passing a living, flowering plant on to your children or grandchildren? According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, when properly cared for, Christmas Cacti can live for 20 to 30 years. If you provide long nights starting around October 1st, you can force the Christmas Cactus to bloom year after year. Cool night temperatures can also encourage it to bloom.
7. Overwatering will kill Christmas Cacti, but they like to be misted on a daily basis. A horticulturist at the Oregon State University Extension Service recommend only adding water to the soil that a Christmas Cactus is planted in when the soil is dry to the touch. Instead, gardening expert and radio host Walter Reeves, the Georgia Gardener, suggests misting the leaves of the Christmas Cactus to maintain the desired level of humidity around the plant.
8. 5 diseases commonly infect Christmas Cactus. Penn State University Extension experts provide a handy fact sheet that outlines the plant diseases that most often affect Christmas Cacti. Their list includes: Basal stem rot, botrytis blight, impatiens necrotic spot virus, phytophthora root rot, and pythium root rot.
9. Fungus gnats, flower thrips, and root mealybugs are the pests that most often infest Christmas Cacti. The University of Massachusetts-Amherst Extension Service recommends preventative measures. The biggest culprit in attracting pests to Christmas Cacti seems to be overwatering. Preventative care, such as discarding infested plants, is another recommended tactic. Pesticides are available for commercial growers, although home-growers may not be able to get their hands on those pesticides.
10. By the way, that Christmas Cactus you are buying is probably not actually a Christmas cactus. Surprise! According to the U-Mass Extension Service, “Holiday Cactus is sometimes marketed as Christmas Cactus, Thanksgiving Cactus, or Zygocactus. The “true” Christmas Cactus is an interspecific hybrid of Schlumbergera truncata and Schlumbergera russelliana that originated about 150 years ago in England. It is a common houseplant but is not often grown commercially. Plants have segments with rounded margins, ribbed ovaries, and purplish-brown anthers. The correct latin name for Christmas Cactus is Schlumbergera x buckleyi; the “x” indicates that it is an interspecific hybrid. Most commercial cultivars of Holiday Cactus are actually Schlumbergera truncata, commonly known as Thanksgiving Cactus or Zygocactus.”
1. It’s called a “cactus”, but it thrives in cooler temperatures. Christmas Cacti need to be kept away from heat sources. According to the Purdue University Extension Service, a Christmas Cactus will blossom longer when exposed to only cooler temperatures. For best results, keep your Christmas Cactus in a cool place (away from heaters and fireplaces) where there are not frequent drafts (right next to a frequently used door would not be a good place). Big changes in temperature can cause the blooms to drop off the plant before they open. The optimal temperature for Christmas Cacti is 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius).
2. Christmas Cacti need light to bloom. According to Purdue University Extension Service, keeping your Christmas Cactus plants in a sunny location indoors is the key to prolonged blooms. However, if you move them outside during the summer, you’ll have the most success in a partially shaded location, as too much direct light can burn the leaves.
3. The Christmas Cactus is native to Brazil. These epiphytes (a plant that grows on top of another plant non-parasitically) grow in the Brazilian rain forest, among tree branches, according to Clemson University Cooperative Extension. Since they are tropical plants, they thrive in humid conditions.
4. Christmas Cacti need their beauty sleep. The horticulture experts at the Cheyenne Botanic Gardens recommend setting your Christmas Cactus in a room where you never turn the lights on at night. In order for the flower buds to set, Christmas Cacti need 14 hours or more of continuous darkness per day. However, after the flower buds have set, Christmas Cacti can withstand lights on at night.
5. Unlike the other Christmas favorite, Poinsettia, Christmas Cactus is not toxic to dogs and cats. Poinsettia is famously poisonous to dogs and cats. However, according to the ASPCA, if Fido or Fluffy nibbles on a Christmas Cactus, she should not experience irritation or vomiting like she would from the sap of the Poinsettia.
6. Christmas Cactus can live for 20 to 30 years. Can you imagine passing a living, flowering plant on to your children or grandchildren? According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, when properly cared for, Christmas Cacti can live for 20 to 30 years. If you provide long nights starting around October 1st, you can force the Christmas Cactus to bloom year after year. Cool night temperatures can also encourage it to bloom.
7. Overwatering will kill Christmas Cacti, but they like to be misted on a daily basis. A horticulturist at the Oregon State University Extension Service recommend only adding water to the soil that a Christmas Cactus is planted in when the soil is dry to the touch. Instead, gardening expert and radio host Walter Reeves, the Georgia Gardener, suggests misting the leaves of the Christmas Cactus to maintain the desired level of humidity around the plant.
8. 5 diseases commonly infect Christmas Cactus. Penn State University Extension experts provide a handy fact sheet that outlines the plant diseases that most often affect Christmas Cacti. Their list includes: Basal stem rot, botrytis blight, impatiens necrotic spot virus, phytophthora root rot, and pythium root rot.
9. Fungus gnats, flower thrips, and root mealybugs are the pests that most often infest Christmas Cacti. The University of Massachusetts-Amherst Extension Service recommends preventative measures. The biggest culprit in attracting pests to Christmas Cacti seems to be overwatering. Preventative care, such as discarding infested plants, is another recommended tactic. Pesticides are available for commercial growers, although home-growers may not be able to get their hands on those pesticides.
10. By the way, that Christmas Cactus you are buying is probably not actually a Christmas cactus. Surprise! According to the U-Mass Extension Service, “Holiday Cactus is sometimes marketed as Christmas Cactus, Thanksgiving Cactus, or Zygocactus. The “true” Christmas Cactus is an interspecific hybrid of Schlumbergera truncata and Schlumbergera russelliana that originated about 150 years ago in England. It is a common houseplant but is not often grown commercially. Plants have segments with rounded margins, ribbed ovaries, and purplish-brown anthers. The correct latin name for Christmas Cactus is Schlumbergera x buckleyi; the “x” indicates that it is an interspecific hybrid. Most commercial cultivars of Holiday Cactus are actually Schlumbergera truncata, commonly known as Thanksgiving Cactus or Zygocactus.”
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Resembling large sewing pincushions, Barrel Cacti (Ferocactus) offer intimidating spines across a ribbed, spherical body for a home desert landscape. Although Barrel Cacti may look mundane throughout the year with their basic green bodies and variable spine colors, their blooms burst forth each year with a neon brilliance that is hard to miss. Blooming periods for the Barrel Cactus range broadly based on local environmental conditions.
Time Range
Barrel Cacti bloom during the spring and summer, typically between April and September. The long daylight hours stimulate the cactus’s body growth, as well as its reproduction. Brightly colored flowers attract bees for pollination; the resulting fruits become food for local wildlife and subsequently spread the cactus’s seed throughout the area. Typically, the fall and winter months are dormant periods for the Barrel Cactus. Cactus growth halts itself throughout this time period until spring and long daylight hours reappear the next year.
Light Factors
Blooming can be affected by too much or too little sunlight. Barrel Cacti must have full sunlight throughout the spring and summer to produce the gorgeous blooms that reside on the top of the plant, but blooming can be stunted when the plant is not properly acclimated to a sunny area. Houseplants placed outside after a shady winter can fail to bloom since they can become sunburned across their green bodies; the plant should be slowly introduced into the sunlight rather than thrust out into 12 hours of constant light. In contrast, a Barrel Cactus that remains in the shade throughout the entire year does not produce a ring of blossoms that resembles a crown. The cactus may not flower at all or simply produce flower buds without opening.
Water Factors
Cacti are known for their acclimation to drought conditions; their ribs expand with water for storage and contract as the water is consumed throughout the dry period. However, a cactus that has truly shriveled up from lack of water does not have the strength to produce the large blooms; the intricate blossoms require a lot of energy from the plant to cultivate and open. A Barrel Cactus that retains a normal amount of water from infrequent waterings should be able to bloom within the normal spring and summer periods.
Soil Considerations
Although acclimating to many soil types, the Barrel Cactus depends on a well-drained and rich soil structure to produce blossoms. Fertilizing during the growing months with a 5-10-5 ratio mixture will also help amend the soil for spectacular blossoms. The numbers represent the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the product. The higher phosphorus amount promotes blooms over stem growth. Poor soil nutrients contribute to low blossom output, if any grow at all. Additionally, soils that waterlog the roots also contribute to root rot and blossoming problems; Barrel Cacti cannot live for very long in wet soil conditions.
Time Range
Barrel Cacti bloom during the spring and summer, typically between April and September. The long daylight hours stimulate the cactus’s body growth, as well as its reproduction. Brightly colored flowers attract bees for pollination; the resulting fruits become food for local wildlife and subsequently spread the cactus’s seed throughout the area. Typically, the fall and winter months are dormant periods for the Barrel Cactus. Cactus growth halts itself throughout this time period until spring and long daylight hours reappear the next year.
Light Factors
Blooming can be affected by too much or too little sunlight. Barrel Cacti must have full sunlight throughout the spring and summer to produce the gorgeous blooms that reside on the top of the plant, but blooming can be stunted when the plant is not properly acclimated to a sunny area. Houseplants placed outside after a shady winter can fail to bloom since they can become sunburned across their green bodies; the plant should be slowly introduced into the sunlight rather than thrust out into 12 hours of constant light. In contrast, a Barrel Cactus that remains in the shade throughout the entire year does not produce a ring of blossoms that resembles a crown. The cactus may not flower at all or simply produce flower buds without opening.
Water Factors
Cacti are known for their acclimation to drought conditions; their ribs expand with water for storage and contract as the water is consumed throughout the dry period. However, a cactus that has truly shriveled up from lack of water does not have the strength to produce the large blooms; the intricate blossoms require a lot of energy from the plant to cultivate and open. A Barrel Cactus that retains a normal amount of water from infrequent waterings should be able to bloom within the normal spring and summer periods.
Soil Considerations
Although acclimating to many soil types, the Barrel Cactus depends on a well-drained and rich soil structure to produce blossoms. Fertilizing during the growing months with a 5-10-5 ratio mixture will also help amend the soil for spectacular blossoms. The numbers represent the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the product. The higher phosphorus amount promotes blooms over stem growth. Poor soil nutrients contribute to low blossom output, if any grow at all. Additionally, soils that waterlog the roots also contribute to root rot and blossoming problems; Barrel Cacti cannot live for very long in wet soil conditions.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Graptopetalum is a small genus of the family Crassulaceae. They are perennial succulent plants and native to Mexico and Arizona. Their leaves vary in colour from silver-grey to pink to waxy green, and are often speckled. They all have thick leaves forming rosettes with star-shaped flowers from white to pink on long stems. All require lots of sun to look their best. They are similar looking to Echeverias, although they are generally considered closer to Sedums.
Growing Conditions
The rules for Graptopetalums care are similar to those for most succulents. Container-bound plants thrive in a mixture of peat, sand or other grit, topsoil and a little bit of compost. Full sun is the best situation but they will also grow in partial sun with slightly rangy results.
Graptopetalums need excellent drainage and moderate water. You can tell when to water by sticking your finger in the soil. If it is dry several inches down or the fleshy leaves are looking shriveled, you should water. Overwatering is a cause of root rots and the plant can get several pest infestations.
Propagation
The Graptopetalums are generally easy to propagate, by seeds, leaf cuttings or offsets. Any rosette that breaks off has the potential to root and start a new plant. Even a leaf that drops off will root below the parent plant and produce a new rosette quickly. The new plant feeds off the leaf until it shrivels up and falls off. By then the new little ghost plant has rooted and sprouted new leaves.
Grower’s Tips
Summer growers. Graptopetalums require gritty porous soil with excellent drainage. Water regularly over the summer months letting the soil dry out between waterings. Minimal water is required over winter. Fertlize once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to ¼ strength. All do best in sun or part sun excluding Graptopetalum bellum which prefers light shade.
Growing Conditions
The rules for Graptopetalums care are similar to those for most succulents. Container-bound plants thrive in a mixture of peat, sand or other grit, topsoil and a little bit of compost. Full sun is the best situation but they will also grow in partial sun with slightly rangy results.
Graptopetalums need excellent drainage and moderate water. You can tell when to water by sticking your finger in the soil. If it is dry several inches down or the fleshy leaves are looking shriveled, you should water. Overwatering is a cause of root rots and the plant can get several pest infestations.
Propagation
The Graptopetalums are generally easy to propagate, by seeds, leaf cuttings or offsets. Any rosette that breaks off has the potential to root and start a new plant. Even a leaf that drops off will root below the parent plant and produce a new rosette quickly. The new plant feeds off the leaf until it shrivels up and falls off. By then the new little ghost plant has rooted and sprouted new leaves.
Grower’s Tips
Summer growers. Graptopetalums require gritty porous soil with excellent drainage. Water regularly over the summer months letting the soil dry out between waterings. Minimal water is required over winter. Fertlize once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to ¼ strength. All do best in sun or part sun excluding Graptopetalum bellum which prefers light shade.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
A small- to medium-sized slow-growing Mexican member of the succulent family Crassulaceae (making them relatives of Kalanchoe and Jade Plant). Pachyphytum leaves are plump and fleshy, and range in color from green to lovely orange and even purple. The leaves form a loose rosette. They may be grape-shaped or tubular, and may have a powdery coating called farina. Pachyphytum forms small, unimpressive bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer which are usually greenish-white and deep red, and which grow on long spikey inflorescences. Pachyphytum rosettes will not die after flowering. The genus name Pachyphytum comes from the Greek for “thick leaves”. It grows in both shrub-forming and stemless rosettes and eventually forms clumps.
Pachyphytum plants are fairly hardy, and are common houseplants. However, like Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves, in particular those with a pearlescent coloration or farina.
Growing Conditions
Pachyphytum will not tolerate frosts well. Temperatures below 20 °F (-6 °C) will kill the plant, and temperatures which may go below 45 °F (7 °C) during extended period should be avoided. Pachyphytum tolerates high heat and intense sunlight. As with most Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum can tolerate (and even appreciated) poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Pachyphytum can thrive in full or partial sunlight.
Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require more water, as winter begins its active growth season. If you are unsure when to water your Pachyphytum, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Pachyphytum is FAR more likely to survive under-watering than over-watering. The thick fleshy leaves will appear wilted and a bit “under-full” when they need water.
Propagation
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
General Care
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the plant, as your body oils will leave marks.
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Pests and Problems
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Pachyphytum may fall prey to this pest. The symptoms of a mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots or look at the leaf-stem junctions. A white cottony substance is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Dab the cottony spots with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alchohol. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your Pachyphytum, it’s leaves are very sensitive.
Pachyphytum plants are fairly hardy, and are common houseplants. However, like Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves, in particular those with a pearlescent coloration or farina.
Growing Conditions
Pachyphytum will not tolerate frosts well. Temperatures below 20 °F (-6 °C) will kill the plant, and temperatures which may go below 45 °F (7 °C) during extended period should be avoided. Pachyphytum tolerates high heat and intense sunlight. As with most Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum can tolerate (and even appreciated) poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Pachyphytum can thrive in full or partial sunlight.
Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require more water, as winter begins its active growth season. If you are unsure when to water your Pachyphytum, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Pachyphytum is FAR more likely to survive under-watering than over-watering. The thick fleshy leaves will appear wilted and a bit “under-full” when they need water.
Propagation
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
General Care
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the plant, as your body oils will leave marks.
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Pests and Problems
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Pachyphytum may fall prey to this pest. The symptoms of a mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots or look at the leaf-stem junctions. A white cottony substance is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Dab the cottony spots with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alchohol. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your Pachyphytum, it’s leaves are very sensitive.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Uncarina is a genus of plant in family Pedaliaceae. Originating in Madagascar, the deciduous shrub may sometimes be considered a small tree as it grows to 25 feet (7.6 m) tall. Leaves are oval and green and flowers bell-shaped and tubular. Uncarina blooms easily, and when covered with flowers, it is a striking vision. The seed capsules feature small hooked harpoons.
There are about 15 species and all species are in cultivation. There are three flower colours to be found: red, white and yellow. The latter is the most common. Only one species has a true caudex, Uncarina roeoesliana. It is also the easiest one to flower; it can already flowers when still small. The rarest is Uncarina leptocarpa, the only white-flowering species.
Growing Conditions
Light: This heat resistant plant does best when grown in part shade to full sun.
Temperature: Uncarinas are tender, cannot endure temperatures below 35 2° F (2° C), if grown outdoors they will probably grow back from roots, if frozen. They are quite heat tolerant.
Water: Water abundantly when actively growing and keep dry when dormant.
Soil: Uncarina needs a rich, very well drained potting soil.
Fertilizer: Use diluted fertilizer on young plants to speed up growth.
Grower’s Tips
One reason that Uncarinas are not common in cultivation is that the seed does not germinate easily. Why this is, we do not know. Propagation by cuttings is not a substitute because they do not root easily either. In short: a difficult sort to propagate. But, once you have managed to get yourself one, it is relatively easy to grow. It needs plenty of warmth and plenty of water in the growing season, but keep it dry in the winter. In the wild they can grow up to 13 feet (4 m), but do not expect that in your greenhouse or window sill.
There are about 15 species and all species are in cultivation. There are three flower colours to be found: red, white and yellow. The latter is the most common. Only one species has a true caudex, Uncarina roeoesliana. It is also the easiest one to flower; it can already flowers when still small. The rarest is Uncarina leptocarpa, the only white-flowering species.
Growing Conditions
Light: This heat resistant plant does best when grown in part shade to full sun.
Temperature: Uncarinas are tender, cannot endure temperatures below 35 2° F (2° C), if grown outdoors they will probably grow back from roots, if frozen. They are quite heat tolerant.
Water: Water abundantly when actively growing and keep dry when dormant.
Soil: Uncarina needs a rich, very well drained potting soil.
Fertilizer: Use diluted fertilizer on young plants to speed up growth.
Grower’s Tips
One reason that Uncarinas are not common in cultivation is that the seed does not germinate easily. Why this is, we do not know. Propagation by cuttings is not a substitute because they do not root easily either. In short: a difficult sort to propagate. But, once you have managed to get yourself one, it is relatively easy to grow. It needs plenty of warmth and plenty of water in the growing season, but keep it dry in the winter. In the wild they can grow up to 13 feet (4 m), but do not expect that in your greenhouse or window sill.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you see a Rose Cactus (Pereskia) while it is dormant in the winter, you’ll have no trouble believing it’s in the cactus family. Leaves drop off in cold weather, revealing the bare green stem armed with the same kind of spines you’ll see in Rose Cactus’ succulent desert relatives. In summer, when bright green 8-inch-(20 cm)-long leaves and pink, white, yellow or coral flowers cover the stems, it looks like a broadleaf shrub. The genus Pereskia is native to South and Central America and has about 24 species.
Plant Description
Most Pereskias have woody, upright growth, but some scramble in a vine-like manner, using hooked spines to support themselves. Spines emerge from wooly hairs where the leaf joins the stem. Flowers are followed by fleshy yellow or orange fruits that attract birds. Species of Rose Cactus vary in how tall they are and how vigorously they grow. The Wax Rose Cactus (Pereskia grandifolia), native to Brazil, has pink flowers and grows 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) tall. Another commonly grown species with fragrant white, pink or yellow flowers is sometimes called Lemon Vine (Pereskia aculeata). It has a clambering growth habit. Rose Cacti grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, where you can trellis them or keep them pruned back as a shorter shrubby plant. In USDA zones below 10, grow Rose Cactus as a container plant that you can move indoors in winter.
Relationship to Other Cacti
Rose Cactus is regarded as a primitive cactus that gives some idea of what the ancestors of succulent leafless cacti might look like. The stems and leaves store water to some degree, and spine patterns are similar. They possess most of the water-use adaptations that allow succulent leafless cacti to succeed. Rose Cactus has shallow root systems to allow quick water uptake, they slow water loss by closing their breathing holes called stomata and are capable of using crassulacean acid metabolism during hot, dry conditions. These adaptations allow their use in drought-tolerant and xeriscape gardens, giving the lush appearance of large green leaves even under tough conditions.
Cultivation
Use a rich, well-drained soil for Rose Cactus. The University of Oklahoma recommends a mix of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part loam and 2 parts sand or perlite. During warm months when plants are actively growing, keep the soil moist. Plants tolerate drier conditions but won’t be as leafy. During winter dormancy, give enough water to keep the stem from wrinkling. Rose Cactus seems to need winter dormancy for flowering the next season. Plants grow in full sun or filtered shade. For overwintering indoors, provide plants with bright light. Prune plants to keep them to the desired size.
Propagation
Grow Rose Cactus from seeds or from cuttings. Sow seeds in spring in a mix of half peat, half perlite, and keep the growing medium moist. Seeds germinate in 21 to 30 days. Take cuttings from young stems that have begun to harden. Don’t let the cuttings dry, but put them immediately into sand or the mix used for seeds. Put the cuttings in bright light rather than direct sunlight to root. Rose Cactus is often used as rootstock for grafting slower-growing succulent cactus because of its vigorous growth.
Plant Description
Most Pereskias have woody, upright growth, but some scramble in a vine-like manner, using hooked spines to support themselves. Spines emerge from wooly hairs where the leaf joins the stem. Flowers are followed by fleshy yellow or orange fruits that attract birds. Species of Rose Cactus vary in how tall they are and how vigorously they grow. The Wax Rose Cactus (Pereskia grandifolia), native to Brazil, has pink flowers and grows 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) tall. Another commonly grown species with fragrant white, pink or yellow flowers is sometimes called Lemon Vine (Pereskia aculeata). It has a clambering growth habit. Rose Cacti grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, where you can trellis them or keep them pruned back as a shorter shrubby plant. In USDA zones below 10, grow Rose Cactus as a container plant that you can move indoors in winter.
Relationship to Other Cacti
Rose Cactus is regarded as a primitive cactus that gives some idea of what the ancestors of succulent leafless cacti might look like. The stems and leaves store water to some degree, and spine patterns are similar. They possess most of the water-use adaptations that allow succulent leafless cacti to succeed. Rose Cactus has shallow root systems to allow quick water uptake, they slow water loss by closing their breathing holes called stomata and are capable of using crassulacean acid metabolism during hot, dry conditions. These adaptations allow their use in drought-tolerant and xeriscape gardens, giving the lush appearance of large green leaves even under tough conditions.
Cultivation
Use a rich, well-drained soil for Rose Cactus. The University of Oklahoma recommends a mix of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part loam and 2 parts sand or perlite. During warm months when plants are actively growing, keep the soil moist. Plants tolerate drier conditions but won’t be as leafy. During winter dormancy, give enough water to keep the stem from wrinkling. Rose Cactus seems to need winter dormancy for flowering the next season. Plants grow in full sun or filtered shade. For overwintering indoors, provide plants with bright light. Prune plants to keep them to the desired size.
Propagation
Grow Rose Cactus from seeds or from cuttings. Sow seeds in spring in a mix of half peat, half perlite, and keep the growing medium moist. Seeds germinate in 21 to 30 days. Take cuttings from young stems that have begun to harden. Don’t let the cuttings dry, but put them immediately into sand or the mix used for seeds. Put the cuttings in bright light rather than direct sunlight to root. Rose Cactus is often used as rootstock for grafting slower-growing succulent cactus because of its vigorous growth.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The Saguaro Cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) sports a medium-green, furrowed trunk with gray spikes. Saguaro Cacti grow very slowly and have a mature height of up to 50 feet (15 m). These cacti make a bold statement in the landscape with their stiff arms and coarse texture. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness plant zones 9 and 10, Saguaro Cacti require full sunlight and extremely fast-draining soil. Planting a young nursery-grown specimen, 3 feet (90 cm) or less in height, is the best way to introduce one of these succulents into your yard. Raising a Saguaro Cactus is extremely easy, as they requiring only infrequent supplemental watering after planting.
1. Dig a hole with a shovel in the southernmost portion of your landscape for the Saguaro Cactus. Fashion the hole twice as wide and equal in depth to the plant’s root ball. Remove any rocks from the hole and displaced soil.
2. Wear heavy gloves when handling the Saguaro Cactus to avoid injury. Look for markings on the pot that indicate which side of the plant was previously growing facing the south. Remove the cactus carefully from its pot.
3. Place the plant in the center of the hole, positioning its southern side facing the southern exposure in your landscape. Add or remove soil from the hole’s bottom as needed to ensure that the root ball’s top is level with the surrounding ground. Fill the hole with soil, tamping it down periodically around the roots. Do not plant the cactus deeper than it was previously growing.
4. Flood the area with water from a garden hose immediately after planting. Water the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Wait for the water to drain down through the soil. Fill in any resulting depressions in the planting area with additional soil if needed.
5. Cover the Saguaro with a 50 percent shade cloth to protect its flesh from burning in the sun while the plant establishes new roots. Remove the shade cloth after one year of growth.
6. Water the Saguaro Cactus once every four weeks only if rainfall is absent during that time. Do not allow the soil to become soggy by watering too frequently, as this will cause the roots to rot. Never water the soil if it is damp to the touch.
1. Dig a hole with a shovel in the southernmost portion of your landscape for the Saguaro Cactus. Fashion the hole twice as wide and equal in depth to the plant’s root ball. Remove any rocks from the hole and displaced soil.
2. Wear heavy gloves when handling the Saguaro Cactus to avoid injury. Look for markings on the pot that indicate which side of the plant was previously growing facing the south. Remove the cactus carefully from its pot.
3. Place the plant in the center of the hole, positioning its southern side facing the southern exposure in your landscape. Add or remove soil from the hole’s bottom as needed to ensure that the root ball’s top is level with the surrounding ground. Fill the hole with soil, tamping it down periodically around the roots. Do not plant the cactus deeper than it was previously growing.
4. Flood the area with water from a garden hose immediately after planting. Water the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Wait for the water to drain down through the soil. Fill in any resulting depressions in the planting area with additional soil if needed.
5. Cover the Saguaro with a 50 percent shade cloth to protect its flesh from burning in the sun while the plant establishes new roots. Remove the shade cloth after one year of growth.
6. Water the Saguaro Cactus once every four weeks only if rainfall is absent during that time. Do not allow the soil to become soggy by watering too frequently, as this will cause the roots to rot. Never water the soil if it is damp to the touch.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Creating your own succulent garden is a lot of fun and much easier than you might expect. Here’s an easy guide to becoming a green-thumbed succulent expert in the comfort of your own home.
Choose Different Types of Succulents
Succulents come in many varieties of striking shapes and textures to suit every taste and achieve your desired look. These low maintenance water-savers are sturdy enough to experiment using different combinations, so don’t be afraid to choose different types of succulents for your garden. Here are some of our favorite succulents for outdoor gardens:
Rosettes: The evergreen leaves of rosettes form a unique flower-like aesthetic and are a popular choice for groundcover.
Flowering Succulents: There are many types of succulents that contrast their green foliage with beautiful blooms in various colors.
Cacti: The thick trunks of cacti can add some tree-like density to your desert oasis. Be careful to plant this succulent away from areas where the kids may play—the thorns are sharp!
Mix and Match Succulents
Try and mix new combinations to let your inner landscape artist shine. Once you choose your succulents, get out a pen and paper to sketch out your ideas first. Take a look at websites like Pinterest or Houzz for inspiration. You can also place plants next to each other in their planters before you plant in order to see which textures and combinations play nicely off each other. Here are some ideas to get your creative juices flowing:
Try laying rows of ground cover succulents, such as Autumn Joy and rosettes, in your entryway. Plant these amidst garden rocks to create a Zen-like pathway to your front door.
Mix different color blooming succulents in your backyard to experience a kaleidoscope of color come spring.
Use cacti and Agave americana on the outer wall of your garden to act as a gate and give you privacy.
Expert Care
Your succulents need just the right amount of water. Knowing just the right amount of water to give each of your succulents will keep your plants living longer and healthier in the long run. The hardy plants normally need water only once per week. Your plant will show you if it is drinking the right amount, which can vary depending on the time of year and if you live in a humid or dry area.
If you are overwatering, the plants can easily rot and lose their petals.
If you are underwatering, the petals will get that shriveled “prune” look.
Always water your succulents less in winter months when there is less sunlight and more rain.
If you live in a humid area, water your succulents less often.
Succulents like just the right amount of bright filtered light. When planning where to create your succulent garden, make sure the spot has bright filtered light without direct sun for long periods of time. Your succulents will also show you if they need more light or if they are getting a little “sunburned”.
If your garden is getting too much light, the leaves will get white or brown with burned-looking spots. If you see this, move the plant to a spot with less light.
If your garden is getting too little sun, the plants will lose their color and stretch out, as if they are reaching and looking for light. If this happens, pinch the leaves back to their normal height and move them to a spot with more sun.
Choose Different Types of Succulents
Succulents come in many varieties of striking shapes and textures to suit every taste and achieve your desired look. These low maintenance water-savers are sturdy enough to experiment using different combinations, so don’t be afraid to choose different types of succulents for your garden. Here are some of our favorite succulents for outdoor gardens:
Rosettes: The evergreen leaves of rosettes form a unique flower-like aesthetic and are a popular choice for groundcover.
Flowering Succulents: There are many types of succulents that contrast their green foliage with beautiful blooms in various colors.
Cacti: The thick trunks of cacti can add some tree-like density to your desert oasis. Be careful to plant this succulent away from areas where the kids may play—the thorns are sharp!
Mix and Match Succulents
Try and mix new combinations to let your inner landscape artist shine. Once you choose your succulents, get out a pen and paper to sketch out your ideas first. Take a look at websites like Pinterest or Houzz for inspiration. You can also place plants next to each other in their planters before you plant in order to see which textures and combinations play nicely off each other. Here are some ideas to get your creative juices flowing:
Try laying rows of ground cover succulents, such as Autumn Joy and rosettes, in your entryway. Plant these amidst garden rocks to create a Zen-like pathway to your front door.
Mix different color blooming succulents in your backyard to experience a kaleidoscope of color come spring.
Use cacti and Agave americana on the outer wall of your garden to act as a gate and give you privacy.
Expert Care
Your succulents need just the right amount of water. Knowing just the right amount of water to give each of your succulents will keep your plants living longer and healthier in the long run. The hardy plants normally need water only once per week. Your plant will show you if it is drinking the right amount, which can vary depending on the time of year and if you live in a humid or dry area.
If you are overwatering, the plants can easily rot and lose their petals.
If you are underwatering, the petals will get that shriveled “prune” look.
Always water your succulents less in winter months when there is less sunlight and more rain.
If you live in a humid area, water your succulents less often.
Succulents like just the right amount of bright filtered light. When planning where to create your succulent garden, make sure the spot has bright filtered light without direct sun for long periods of time. Your succulents will also show you if they need more light or if they are getting a little “sunburned”.
If your garden is getting too much light, the leaves will get white or brown with burned-looking spots. If you see this, move the plant to a spot with less light.
If your garden is getting too little sun, the plants will lose their color and stretch out, as if they are reaching and looking for light. If this happens, pinch the leaves back to their normal height and move them to a spot with more sun.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Crassula ovata is a succulent native to South Africa and is commonly called the Jade Plant or Money Plant. It has jade green, egg-shaped leaves and bears small pink or white flowers. The jade plant is a favorite indoor plant that can grow into a small tree or shrub up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, although it can be easily trained into bonsai form. It will grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10, but is better grown indoors in USDA zones below that where prolonged winter cold can kill it.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Despite its name, the pickleworm’s favorite meal is squash, both winter and summer types. These pinkish or green caterpillars feed on the blossoms, stems, and developing fruits of squash, cucumbers, cantaloupe and some pumpkins.
Pickleworms overwinter in tropical zones and as adult moths they migrate northward in early summer to lay their eggs on susceptible plants. Pickleworm larvae feed on flowers and tunnel into young fruits before pupating. With two to four generations per year, pickleworms are year-round pests in the southernmost part of the U.S. They can migrate as far north as the Carolinas during the summer.
Prevention and Control
Plant as early as possible so crops are harvested before late summer, when damage is usually greatest.
In southern areas of Florida and Texas, pull up and destroy vines and leftover fruits after harvest, along with nearby weeds, to minimize opportunities for the pest to overwinter.
Pickleworms overwinter in tropical zones and as adult moths they migrate northward in early summer to lay their eggs on susceptible plants. Pickleworm larvae feed on flowers and tunnel into young fruits before pupating. With two to four generations per year, pickleworms are year-round pests in the southernmost part of the U.S. They can migrate as far north as the Carolinas during the summer.
Prevention and Control
Plant as early as possible so crops are harvested before late summer, when damage is usually greatest.
In southern areas of Florida and Texas, pull up and destroy vines and leftover fruits after harvest, along with nearby weeds, to minimize opportunities for the pest to overwinter.
0
0
