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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Ovoid to nearly heart shaped, covered in knobby gray/blue/green hues that look almost like scales on the outside and inside, sections of glistening, creamy-white flesh with a shockingly pleasant aroma. What are we talking about? Sugar apples. What exactly is sugar apple fruit and can you grow sugar apples in the garden? Read on to find out about growing sugar apple trees, sugar apple uses and other information.
What is Sugar Apple Fruit?
Sugar apples (Annona squamosa) are the fruit of one of the most commonly grown Annona trees. Depending upon where you find them, they go by a plethora of names, amongst them include sweetsop, custard apple and the apropos scaly custard apple.
The sugar apple tree varies in height from 10-20 feet with an open habit of irregular, zigzagging twigs. Foliage is alternate, dull green on top and pale green on the underside. Crushed leaves have an aromatic scent, as do the fragrant flowers which may be single or in clusters of 2-4. They are yellow-green with a pale yellow interior borne off of long drooping stalks. Fruit of sugar apple trees is as about 2 ½ to 4 inches long. Each fruit segment typically contains a ½-inch long black to dark brown seed, of which there may be up to 40 per sugar apple. Most sugar apples have green skins, but a dark red variety is attaining some popularity. Fruit ripens 3-4 months after flowering in the spring.
Sugar Apple Information
No one is exactly sure where sugar apples hail from, but they are commonly cultivated in tropical South America, southern Mexico, the West Indies, Bahamas and Bermuda. Cultivation is most extensive in India and is wildly popular in the interior of Brazil. It can be found growing wild in Jamaica, Puerto Rico, Barbados and in the drier regions of North Queensland, Australia. It’s likely that Spanish explorers brought seeds from the New World to the Philippines, while the Portuguese are thought to have brought the seeds to southern India prior to 1590. In Florida, a “seedless” variety, ‘Seedless Cuban,’ was introduced for cultivation in 1955. It does have vestigial seeds and has a less developed flavor than other cultivars, grown primarily as a novelty.
Sugar Apple Uses
The fruit of the sugar apple tree is eaten out of hand, separating the fleshy segments from the outer peel and spitting the seeds out. In some countries, the pulp is pressed to eliminate the seeds and then added to ice cream or combined with milk for a refreshing beverage. Sugar apples are never used cooked. The seeds of the sugar apple are poisonous, as are the leaves and bark. In fact, powdered seeds or dried fruit has been used as a fish poison and insecticide in India. A seed paste has also been used pasted on the scalp to rid people of lice. The oil derived from the seeds has also been used as a pesticide. Conversely, the oil from sugar apple’s leaves has a history of use in perfumes. In India, the crushed leaves are snorted to treat hysteria and fainting spells and topically applied to wounds. A leaf decoction is used throughout tropical America to treat a multitude of symptoms, as too is the fruit.
Can You Grow Sugar Apple Trees?
Sugar apples need a tropical to near tropical climate (73-94 degrees F. or 22-34 C.) and are unsuited to most areas of the United States with the exception of some areas of Florida, although they are cold tolerant to 27 degrees F. (-2 C.). They thrive in dry areas except during pollination where high atmospheric humidity seems to be an important factor. So can you grow a sugar apple tree? If you are within that climactic range, then yes. Also, sugar apple trees do well in containers in greenhouses. The trees do well in a variety of soils, provided they have good drainage. When growing sugar apple trees, propagation is generally from seeds that may take 30 days or longer to germinate. To hasten germination, scarify the seeds or soak them for 3 days prior to planting.
If you live in a tropical zone and wish to plant your sugar apples in the soil, plant them in full sun and 15-20 feet away from other trees or buildings. Feed young trees every 4-6 weeks during the growing season with a complete fertilizer. Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around the tree to within 6 inches of the trunk to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
What is Sugar Apple Fruit?
Sugar apples (Annona squamosa) are the fruit of one of the most commonly grown Annona trees. Depending upon where you find them, they go by a plethora of names, amongst them include sweetsop, custard apple and the apropos scaly custard apple.
The sugar apple tree varies in height from 10-20 feet with an open habit of irregular, zigzagging twigs. Foliage is alternate, dull green on top and pale green on the underside. Crushed leaves have an aromatic scent, as do the fragrant flowers which may be single or in clusters of 2-4. They are yellow-green with a pale yellow interior borne off of long drooping stalks. Fruit of sugar apple trees is as about 2 ½ to 4 inches long. Each fruit segment typically contains a ½-inch long black to dark brown seed, of which there may be up to 40 per sugar apple. Most sugar apples have green skins, but a dark red variety is attaining some popularity. Fruit ripens 3-4 months after flowering in the spring.
Sugar Apple Information
No one is exactly sure where sugar apples hail from, but they are commonly cultivated in tropical South America, southern Mexico, the West Indies, Bahamas and Bermuda. Cultivation is most extensive in India and is wildly popular in the interior of Brazil. It can be found growing wild in Jamaica, Puerto Rico, Barbados and in the drier regions of North Queensland, Australia. It’s likely that Spanish explorers brought seeds from the New World to the Philippines, while the Portuguese are thought to have brought the seeds to southern India prior to 1590. In Florida, a “seedless” variety, ‘Seedless Cuban,’ was introduced for cultivation in 1955. It does have vestigial seeds and has a less developed flavor than other cultivars, grown primarily as a novelty.
Sugar Apple Uses
The fruit of the sugar apple tree is eaten out of hand, separating the fleshy segments from the outer peel and spitting the seeds out. In some countries, the pulp is pressed to eliminate the seeds and then added to ice cream or combined with milk for a refreshing beverage. Sugar apples are never used cooked. The seeds of the sugar apple are poisonous, as are the leaves and bark. In fact, powdered seeds or dried fruit has been used as a fish poison and insecticide in India. A seed paste has also been used pasted on the scalp to rid people of lice. The oil derived from the seeds has also been used as a pesticide. Conversely, the oil from sugar apple’s leaves has a history of use in perfumes. In India, the crushed leaves are snorted to treat hysteria and fainting spells and topically applied to wounds. A leaf decoction is used throughout tropical America to treat a multitude of symptoms, as too is the fruit.
Can You Grow Sugar Apple Trees?
Sugar apples need a tropical to near tropical climate (73-94 degrees F. or 22-34 C.) and are unsuited to most areas of the United States with the exception of some areas of Florida, although they are cold tolerant to 27 degrees F. (-2 C.). They thrive in dry areas except during pollination where high atmospheric humidity seems to be an important factor. So can you grow a sugar apple tree? If you are within that climactic range, then yes. Also, sugar apple trees do well in containers in greenhouses. The trees do well in a variety of soils, provided they have good drainage. When growing sugar apple trees, propagation is generally from seeds that may take 30 days or longer to germinate. To hasten germination, scarify the seeds or soak them for 3 days prior to planting.
If you live in a tropical zone and wish to plant your sugar apples in the soil, plant them in full sun and 15-20 feet away from other trees or buildings. Feed young trees every 4-6 weeks during the growing season with a complete fertilizer. Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around the tree to within 6 inches of the trunk to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Acacias are graceful trees that grow in warm climates such as Hawaii, Mexico and the southwestern United States. The foliage is typically bright green or bluish-green and the small blooms may be creamy white, pale yellow or bright yellow. Acacia may be evergreen or deciduous.
Acacia Tree Facts
Most acacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions.
Many types of acacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Acacia Tree and Ants
Interestingly, stinging ants and acacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Acacia Tree Growing Conditions
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia Tree Care
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system. During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water. Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth. Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
Acacia Tree Types
Acacia trees preferred by most gardeners are varieties that burst out with yellow blooms in the winter or early spring. Popular types include:
Bailey acacia, a hardy Australian variety that reaches heights of 20 to 30 feet. Bailey acacia displays feathery, bluish-gray foliage and bright yellow wintertime blooms. Also known as Texas acacia, Guajillo is an extremely heat-tolerant tree that hales from southern Texas and Mexico. It is a shrubby plant that reaches heights of 5 to 12 feet. This species produces clusters of fragrant white flowers in early spring.
Knifeleaf acacia is named for its silvery-gray, knife-shaped leaves. Mature height for this tree is 10 to 15 feet. Sweet-smelling yellow flowers appear in early spring. Koa is a fast-growing acacia native to Hawaii. This tree, which eventually reaches heights and widths of up to 60 feet, displaying pale yellow blooms in spring.
Acacia Tree Facts
Most acacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions.
Many types of acacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Acacia Tree and Ants
Interestingly, stinging ants and acacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Acacia Tree Growing Conditions
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia Tree Care
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system. During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water. Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth. Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
Acacia Tree Types
Acacia trees preferred by most gardeners are varieties that burst out with yellow blooms in the winter or early spring. Popular types include:
Bailey acacia, a hardy Australian variety that reaches heights of 20 to 30 feet. Bailey acacia displays feathery, bluish-gray foliage and bright yellow wintertime blooms. Also known as Texas acacia, Guajillo is an extremely heat-tolerant tree that hales from southern Texas and Mexico. It is a shrubby plant that reaches heights of 5 to 12 feet. This species produces clusters of fragrant white flowers in early spring.
Knifeleaf acacia is named for its silvery-gray, knife-shaped leaves. Mature height for this tree is 10 to 15 feet. Sweet-smelling yellow flowers appear in early spring. Koa is a fast-growing acacia native to Hawaii. This tree, which eventually reaches heights and widths of up to 60 feet, displaying pale yellow blooms in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Gardeners looking for a perennial evergreen ground cover couldn’t find a better choice than Antennaria pussytoes. Lush carpets of gray-green leaves followed by sprightly little “cats paws” of pussytoes flowers lend charm and ease of care to the dry, nutrient poor regions of the landscape. Fast growing and readily available, planting pussytoes seeds provides an attractive foil to pathways, rock gardens and even xeriscape zones.
Antennaria Pussytoes Attributes
Cat lovers will swoon with delight over pussytoes flower. Pussytoes ground cover is remarkably resistant to disease and pests, including deer and rabbits. It is also an attractor for pollinating insects and a host for the American Lady butterflies. Learn how to grow pussytoes plant for season after season of fool proof texture and greenery.
Native plants are always a good choice for the landscape. This is because they are already adapted and hardy to the region and offer no fuss beauty and vigorous growth. Pussytoes ground cover is native to the western United States and Canada. It forms wide clumps over time and colonizes quickly.
The tiny gray-haired leaves are stacked up on top of each other on slender herbaceous stalks that grow no more than 6 inches tall. In spring, the charming downy flowers appear. Blooms are white to pink fuzzy clusters resembling cat feet. Some of the species to select are:
Rosy
Scented
Pearly
Wooly Pussytoes
How to Grow Pussytoes Plant
Site selection is the first consideration for growing pussytoes. Choose a location in full sun with well-draining soil. The plant is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 through 9. In cooler regions, the basal leaves tend to die back a bit but will re-sprout in spring. In its native habitat, it occurs in meadows, hills, open woods and dry pastures. The only condition pussytoes cannot tolerate is wet, poorly drained soil. Antennaria pussytoes can be propagated by seed, division or cuttings. It is remarkably drought tolerant once established but supplemental water for seedlings is a must. Beds and borders, rock gardens and walls are all excellent places to display the draping beauty of this plant.
Planting Pussytoes Seeds
Sow seeds in an open frame in spring or fall. You may also opt to start the seed indoors in flats and transplant seedlings outdoors once they have 3 sets of true leaves. Seed starting mixtures or garden soil are adequate for sowing. Mist seedlings to keep the top few inches of the soil moist but not soggy. Transplant the seedlings after all danger of frost has passed and once they have hardened off. The biggest problems with this plant are generally related to excess moisture and fungal disease. Allow the top surface of the soil to dry out completely before irrigation. Pussytoes does not need supplemental fertilization. Maintenance may include cutting off the spent spring blooms just before summer to promote a tidier appearance and denser foliage.
Divide plants in spring to prevent die back in the center of the clump and produce more of these charming little plants.
Antennaria Pussytoes Attributes
Cat lovers will swoon with delight over pussytoes flower. Pussytoes ground cover is remarkably resistant to disease and pests, including deer and rabbits. It is also an attractor for pollinating insects and a host for the American Lady butterflies. Learn how to grow pussytoes plant for season after season of fool proof texture and greenery.
Native plants are always a good choice for the landscape. This is because they are already adapted and hardy to the region and offer no fuss beauty and vigorous growth. Pussytoes ground cover is native to the western United States and Canada. It forms wide clumps over time and colonizes quickly.
The tiny gray-haired leaves are stacked up on top of each other on slender herbaceous stalks that grow no more than 6 inches tall. In spring, the charming downy flowers appear. Blooms are white to pink fuzzy clusters resembling cat feet. Some of the species to select are:
Rosy
Scented
Pearly
Wooly Pussytoes
How to Grow Pussytoes Plant
Site selection is the first consideration for growing pussytoes. Choose a location in full sun with well-draining soil. The plant is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 through 9. In cooler regions, the basal leaves tend to die back a bit but will re-sprout in spring. In its native habitat, it occurs in meadows, hills, open woods and dry pastures. The only condition pussytoes cannot tolerate is wet, poorly drained soil. Antennaria pussytoes can be propagated by seed, division or cuttings. It is remarkably drought tolerant once established but supplemental water for seedlings is a must. Beds and borders, rock gardens and walls are all excellent places to display the draping beauty of this plant.
Planting Pussytoes Seeds
Sow seeds in an open frame in spring or fall. You may also opt to start the seed indoors in flats and transplant seedlings outdoors once they have 3 sets of true leaves. Seed starting mixtures or garden soil are adequate for sowing. Mist seedlings to keep the top few inches of the soil moist but not soggy. Transplant the seedlings after all danger of frost has passed and once they have hardened off. The biggest problems with this plant are generally related to excess moisture and fungal disease. Allow the top surface of the soil to dry out completely before irrigation. Pussytoes does not need supplemental fertilization. Maintenance may include cutting off the spent spring blooms just before summer to promote a tidier appearance and denser foliage.
Divide plants in spring to prevent die back in the center of the clump and produce more of these charming little plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Pachysandra, also called Japanese spurge, is an evergreen ground cover that looks like a great idea when you plant it–after all, it stays green year round and spreads quickly to fill an area. Unfortunately, this aggressive plant doesn’t know when to stop. Read on for information on removing pachysandra ground cover. Pachysandra is an invasive perennial ground cover that spreads throughout the garden by means of underground stems and roots. Once it gets a foothold in the garden, it is very difficult to control. Pachysandra plants can overrun your garden and escape into wild areas where it displaces native plants.
How to Get Rid of Pachysandra in the Garden
If you find your garden overrun with this ground cover, then you’ll need to know how to control pachysandra plant. There are three ways to get rid of pachysandra in the garden, and none of them are particularly pleasant. Dig it up. Digging is hard work, but it is environmentally safe, and it works well in small areas. Pachysandra has a shallow root system. To make sure you get all of the roots, cut through the foliage and remove the top 4 to 6 inches of soil across the area where the plants grow.
Cover it with black plastic. The soil under the plastic will heat up, and the plastic will deprive the plants of sunlight and water. The drawback is that it is unsightly, and it takes three months to a year to completely kill the plants. Plants in shady areas require the most time. Kill it with chemicals. This is a method of last resort, but if your choice is between using chemicals or giving your landscape over to pachysandra weeds, this may be an option for you.
Pachysandra Removal Tips UsingChemicals
Unfortunately, you’ll have to use a systemic herbicide to get rid of pachysandra. An herbicide containing glyphosate, such as Roundup, is a good choice. Roundup kills any vegetation it comes in contact with, so use it carefully. If you spray it on, choose a calm day so the wind won’t carry it to other plants. Don’t use the herbicide where it may run off into bodies of water. If you have herbicide left over, store it in its original container and out of the reach of children.
How to Get Rid of Pachysandra in the Garden
If you find your garden overrun with this ground cover, then you’ll need to know how to control pachysandra plant. There are three ways to get rid of pachysandra in the garden, and none of them are particularly pleasant. Dig it up. Digging is hard work, but it is environmentally safe, and it works well in small areas. Pachysandra has a shallow root system. To make sure you get all of the roots, cut through the foliage and remove the top 4 to 6 inches of soil across the area where the plants grow.
Cover it with black plastic. The soil under the plastic will heat up, and the plastic will deprive the plants of sunlight and water. The drawback is that it is unsightly, and it takes three months to a year to completely kill the plants. Plants in shady areas require the most time. Kill it with chemicals. This is a method of last resort, but if your choice is between using chemicals or giving your landscape over to pachysandra weeds, this may be an option for you.
Pachysandra Removal Tips UsingChemicals
Unfortunately, you’ll have to use a systemic herbicide to get rid of pachysandra. An herbicide containing glyphosate, such as Roundup, is a good choice. Roundup kills any vegetation it comes in contact with, so use it carefully. If you spray it on, choose a calm day so the wind won’t carry it to other plants. Don’t use the herbicide where it may run off into bodies of water. If you have herbicide left over, store it in its original container and out of the reach of children.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Mazus ground cover is a very tiny perennial plant, growing only two inches tall. It forms a dense mat of foliage that stays green throughout spring and summer, and well into fall. In the summer, it is dotted with tiny blue flowers. Learn to grow mazus in this article.
Mazus Reptans Information
Mazus (Mazus reptans) spreads quickly by means of creeping stems that take root where they touch the ground. Even though the plants spread aggressively to fill in bare spots, they aren’t considered invasive because they don’t become a problem in wild areas.
Native to Asia, Mazus reptans is a tiny perennial that can make a big impact in the landscape. It’s the perfect, quick-growing groundcover for small areas. Plant it at the rate of six plants per square yard for the fastest coverage. You can also grow it in shaped patches with the aid of barriers to stop the spread. Mazus grows well in rock gardens and in the gaps between the rocks in a rock wall. It tolerates light foot traffic so you can plant it in between stepping stones too.
Mazus Reptans Care
Creeping mazus plants need a location in full sun or partial shade. It tolerates moderate to high moisture levels, but the roots shouldn’t stand in water. It can live in soil with low fertility, but the ideal location has fertile, loamy soil. It is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 7 or 8. To grow mazus where you now have a lawn, first remove the grass. Mazus will not outcompete lawn grass, so you need to make sure you take up all the grass and get as much of the roots as possible. You can do this with a flat shovel that has a fairly sharp edge.
Mazus may not require annual fertilization. This is especially true if the soil is rich. Spring is the best time to fertilize the plants if necessary, however. Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Rinse the leaves thoroughly after applying fertilizer to prevent leaf burn. Growing Mazus reptans is made easy by the fact that it seldom suffers from disease or insect infestation.
Mazus Reptans Information
Mazus (Mazus reptans) spreads quickly by means of creeping stems that take root where they touch the ground. Even though the plants spread aggressively to fill in bare spots, they aren’t considered invasive because they don’t become a problem in wild areas.
Native to Asia, Mazus reptans is a tiny perennial that can make a big impact in the landscape. It’s the perfect, quick-growing groundcover for small areas. Plant it at the rate of six plants per square yard for the fastest coverage. You can also grow it in shaped patches with the aid of barriers to stop the spread. Mazus grows well in rock gardens and in the gaps between the rocks in a rock wall. It tolerates light foot traffic so you can plant it in between stepping stones too.
Mazus Reptans Care
Creeping mazus plants need a location in full sun or partial shade. It tolerates moderate to high moisture levels, but the roots shouldn’t stand in water. It can live in soil with low fertility, but the ideal location has fertile, loamy soil. It is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 7 or 8. To grow mazus where you now have a lawn, first remove the grass. Mazus will not outcompete lawn grass, so you need to make sure you take up all the grass and get as much of the roots as possible. You can do this with a flat shovel that has a fairly sharp edge.
Mazus may not require annual fertilization. This is especially true if the soil is rich. Spring is the best time to fertilize the plants if necessary, however. Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Rinse the leaves thoroughly after applying fertilizer to prevent leaf burn. Growing Mazus reptans is made easy by the fact that it seldom suffers from disease or insect infestation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Bronze Dutch clover plants (Trifolium repens Atropurpureum) look much like standard, low-growing clover – with a colorful twist; bronze Dutch clover plants produce a carpet of dark red leaves with contrasting green edges. Like familiar clover plants, bronze Dutch clover displays white blooms throughout most of the summer months. Read on to learn all you need to know about growing bronze Dutch clover.
Growing Bronze Dutch Clover
Bronze Dutch clover is easy to grow as long as you can provide well drained, lightly moist soil. The plants tolerate both full sunlight and partial shade, although afternoon shade is beneficial for growing bronze Dutch clover in hot climates. However, too much shade will produce green plants, and a few hours of daily sunlight brings out the red in the leaves.
Bronze Dutch Clover Lawns
Bronze Dutch clover spreads by runners both above and below ground, which means bronze Dutch clover plants expand easily, choking out weeds and controlling erosion in the process. The sturdy plants, which reach heights of 3 to 6 inches, tolerate moderate foot traffic. Although bronze Dutch clover lawns are spectacular, this plant is also stunning in woodland gardens, rock gardens, around ponds, over retaining walls, or in containers.
Caring for Dutch Clover
Work an inch or two of compost or manure into the ground at planting time to get the young plants off to a good start. Thereafter, clover produces its own nitrogen and requires no supplemental fertilizer. Similarly, clover produces its own living mulch and requires no extra mulch of any sort. Once established, bronze Dutch clover requires little attention. However, young plants benefit from regular irrigation to help the roots establish themselves. Two waterings per week is adequate in most climates, less if you live in a rainy climate. Mow the plants occasionally, as bronze Dutch clover lawns are most attractive when maintained at about 3 inches.
Is Bronze Dutch Clover Invasive?
All clovers are a valuable source of nectar for honeybees and other pollinators. However, improperly maintained plants may become invasive in certain habitats. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service or your state’s Department of Agriculture before planting Bronze Dutch clover.
Growing Bronze Dutch Clover
Bronze Dutch clover is easy to grow as long as you can provide well drained, lightly moist soil. The plants tolerate both full sunlight and partial shade, although afternoon shade is beneficial for growing bronze Dutch clover in hot climates. However, too much shade will produce green plants, and a few hours of daily sunlight brings out the red in the leaves.
Bronze Dutch Clover Lawns
Bronze Dutch clover spreads by runners both above and below ground, which means bronze Dutch clover plants expand easily, choking out weeds and controlling erosion in the process. The sturdy plants, which reach heights of 3 to 6 inches, tolerate moderate foot traffic. Although bronze Dutch clover lawns are spectacular, this plant is also stunning in woodland gardens, rock gardens, around ponds, over retaining walls, or in containers.
Caring for Dutch Clover
Work an inch or two of compost or manure into the ground at planting time to get the young plants off to a good start. Thereafter, clover produces its own nitrogen and requires no supplemental fertilizer. Similarly, clover produces its own living mulch and requires no extra mulch of any sort. Once established, bronze Dutch clover requires little attention. However, young plants benefit from regular irrigation to help the roots establish themselves. Two waterings per week is adequate in most climates, less if you live in a rainy climate. Mow the plants occasionally, as bronze Dutch clover lawns are most attractive when maintained at about 3 inches.
Is Bronze Dutch Clover Invasive?
All clovers are a valuable source of nectar for honeybees and other pollinators. However, improperly maintained plants may become invasive in certain habitats. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service or your state’s Department of Agriculture before planting Bronze Dutch clover.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
We tend to think of moss as small airy green plants that decorate rocks, trees, ground spaces and even our houses. Spike moss plants, or club moss, are not true mosses but very basic vascular plants. They are related to the family of ferns and closely aligned with fern ecosystems. Can you grow spike moss? You certainly can, and it makes an excellent ground cover but needs consistent moisture to remain green.
About Spike Moss Plants
Spike moss has a similar structure to ferns. The relationship might lead one to call the plants spike moss fern, although that is technically not correct either. These common plants are part of many native flora situations and are nursery plants for some varieties of wild seed, which grow up through them. Selaginella spike moss are spore producing plants, just like ferns, and can produce large mats of deep feathery green foliage.
The Selaginella genus is an ancient plant group. They formed around the time ferns were evolving but took a u-turn somewhere in the evolutionary development. The moss’s leaves cluster into groups called strobili, with spore bearing structures on the terminal ends. There are over 700 species of Selaginella that span the globe. Some are moisture lovers while others are perfectly suited to arid zones.
Many of the spike moss form into a dark, dry little ball when moisture is scarce. In fact, periods of dryness cause the moss to desiccate and go dormant. This is called poikilohydry. The plant bounces back to green life when it gets water, leading to the name resurrection plant. This group of fern and club mosses are called Polypoiophyta.
Spike Moss Care
Although closely aligned with ferns, spike moss plants are more nearly related to ancient plants such as quillworts and lycopods. There are many varieties available for the gardener, from Ruby Red spike moss fern to ‘Aurea’ Golden spike moss. Other varieties include:
Rock moss
Lesser club moss
Pin cushion
Lacy spike moss
They make excellent terrarium plants or even as accents to beds, borders, rock gardens and containers. Plants spread from trailing stems and one plant can cover up to 3 feet over a couple of seasons. Where else can you grow spike moss? Over time the plant will adhere to most vertical surfaces, such as fences and boulders.
These plants are remarkably durable. In most cases, a pressure washer can’t even disturb them. They are hardy to USDA zone 11 and down to cool temperatures of 30 degrees Fahrenheit or -1 degrees Celsius. These mosses require rich, well-drained soil in part to full shade. Plant them in a mixture of peat moss and good garden soil to enhance moisture retention. Another useful fact about spike moss is its ease of division for propagation. Cut apart sections and replant them for a carpet of soft green foliage.
About Spike Moss Plants
Spike moss has a similar structure to ferns. The relationship might lead one to call the plants spike moss fern, although that is technically not correct either. These common plants are part of many native flora situations and are nursery plants for some varieties of wild seed, which grow up through them. Selaginella spike moss are spore producing plants, just like ferns, and can produce large mats of deep feathery green foliage.
The Selaginella genus is an ancient plant group. They formed around the time ferns were evolving but took a u-turn somewhere in the evolutionary development. The moss’s leaves cluster into groups called strobili, with spore bearing structures on the terminal ends. There are over 700 species of Selaginella that span the globe. Some are moisture lovers while others are perfectly suited to arid zones.
Many of the spike moss form into a dark, dry little ball when moisture is scarce. In fact, periods of dryness cause the moss to desiccate and go dormant. This is called poikilohydry. The plant bounces back to green life when it gets water, leading to the name resurrection plant. This group of fern and club mosses are called Polypoiophyta.
Spike Moss Care
Although closely aligned with ferns, spike moss plants are more nearly related to ancient plants such as quillworts and lycopods. There are many varieties available for the gardener, from Ruby Red spike moss fern to ‘Aurea’ Golden spike moss. Other varieties include:
Rock moss
Lesser club moss
Pin cushion
Lacy spike moss
They make excellent terrarium plants or even as accents to beds, borders, rock gardens and containers. Plants spread from trailing stems and one plant can cover up to 3 feet over a couple of seasons. Where else can you grow spike moss? Over time the plant will adhere to most vertical surfaces, such as fences and boulders.
These plants are remarkably durable. In most cases, a pressure washer can’t even disturb them. They are hardy to USDA zone 11 and down to cool temperatures of 30 degrees Fahrenheit or -1 degrees Celsius. These mosses require rich, well-drained soil in part to full shade. Plant them in a mixture of peat moss and good garden soil to enhance moisture retention. Another useful fact about spike moss is its ease of division for propagation. Cut apart sections and replant them for a carpet of soft green foliage.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Snow in summer is a lovely plant with grayish green leaves and bright white flowers in June. It spreads beautifully and is useful in rock gardens where it can cascade down amongst other creeping species. A non-flowering snow in summer plant might seem a mystery, but these short lived plants need dividing annually and well-draining soil to perform properly. If you have no flowers on snow in summer plant, you might just need to fertilize or consider a site change to optimize the plant’s lighting and soil needs.
Snow in Summer Plant isn’t Blooming
Great masses of white blooms on silvery gray foliage are the hallmark of the snow in summer plant. Failure to form flowers might be related to site conditions, lack of nutrients, or simply poor snow in summer plant care. Another common cause of no flowers on snow in summer plant is planting in the incorrect zone. This is an alpine plant that thrives in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 7. Planting it in tropical to semi-tropical zones will not afford it the chilling period it needs to form blooms.
Snow in summer plants form broad foliage mounds very quickly. They bloom in late spring to early summer, producing a carpet of bright white flowers quickly. The narrow leaves are evergreen and the plant will produce a 6-inch tall mat. In some climates, the flowers will self-seed if not removed from the plant. Fortunately, it takes to shearing or even a high mow to remove spent blooms and neaten the plant. When a snow in summer plant isn’t blooming, you may have sheared it at the wrong time. Trim plants after blooms or when flowers are just spent to prevent removing the next season’s bloom material.
To keep your plant happy, install it in the optimum location. Snow in summer likes slightly sandy, well-draining soil in full sun. It prefers areas with cool summer months and does not like excessive heat. It is drought tolerant once established but will grow faster and better with average moisture. One thing that will really make the plant unhappy is compact, clay soil which doesn’t drain well. This can lead to root rot and could cause a non-flowering snow in summer plant but is more likely to affect foliage first and can even trigger total plant death. Over time, the centers of the plant will fail to bloom, but division of the plant in early spring or autumn will help produce more compact plants and better blooming.
Snow in Summer Plant Care
Once snow in summer is established, it is best to leave it on the dry side. Water only when the top few inches of soil are dry. The plant can be an aggressive grower but shearing it after bloom will create a tighter plant and prevent it from overrunning the planting site. Clip them back to 2 inches in height and the plant will rapidly produce new foliage and stems. Luckily, snow in summer plants have no serious disease or pest issues. Soil that doesn’t drain well seems to be their biggest problem. Overhead watering during the warm, moist months should be discouraged, as rust can become an issue.
Fertilize in spring with a balanced all purpose, time release granule formula. This will feed the plant for up to 3 months, providing it nutrition to both flower and produce foliage. If necessary, you may want to encourage more blooms by using a high phosphorus fertilizer or adding bone meal to the soil around non-flowering snow in summer plants.
Snow in Summer Plant isn’t Blooming
Great masses of white blooms on silvery gray foliage are the hallmark of the snow in summer plant. Failure to form flowers might be related to site conditions, lack of nutrients, or simply poor snow in summer plant care. Another common cause of no flowers on snow in summer plant is planting in the incorrect zone. This is an alpine plant that thrives in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 7. Planting it in tropical to semi-tropical zones will not afford it the chilling period it needs to form blooms.
Snow in summer plants form broad foliage mounds very quickly. They bloom in late spring to early summer, producing a carpet of bright white flowers quickly. The narrow leaves are evergreen and the plant will produce a 6-inch tall mat. In some climates, the flowers will self-seed if not removed from the plant. Fortunately, it takes to shearing or even a high mow to remove spent blooms and neaten the plant. When a snow in summer plant isn’t blooming, you may have sheared it at the wrong time. Trim plants after blooms or when flowers are just spent to prevent removing the next season’s bloom material.
To keep your plant happy, install it in the optimum location. Snow in summer likes slightly sandy, well-draining soil in full sun. It prefers areas with cool summer months and does not like excessive heat. It is drought tolerant once established but will grow faster and better with average moisture. One thing that will really make the plant unhappy is compact, clay soil which doesn’t drain well. This can lead to root rot and could cause a non-flowering snow in summer plant but is more likely to affect foliage first and can even trigger total plant death. Over time, the centers of the plant will fail to bloom, but division of the plant in early spring or autumn will help produce more compact plants and better blooming.
Snow in Summer Plant Care
Once snow in summer is established, it is best to leave it on the dry side. Water only when the top few inches of soil are dry. The plant can be an aggressive grower but shearing it after bloom will create a tighter plant and prevent it from overrunning the planting site. Clip them back to 2 inches in height and the plant will rapidly produce new foliage and stems. Luckily, snow in summer plants have no serious disease or pest issues. Soil that doesn’t drain well seems to be their biggest problem. Overhead watering during the warm, moist months should be discouraged, as rust can become an issue.
Fertilize in spring with a balanced all purpose, time release granule formula. This will feed the plant for up to 3 months, providing it nutrition to both flower and produce foliage. If necessary, you may want to encourage more blooms by using a high phosphorus fertilizer or adding bone meal to the soil around non-flowering snow in summer plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Red clover is a common soil amendment and green manure. The plant fixes nitrogen in soil, enhancing fertility for better growth in other plants. If you are thinking about using red clover, why not try ornamental clover plants. Red feather foxtail clover has spectacular tufted flowers that are attractive and useful. Red feather clover not only adds nitrogen to soil but has other benefits after providing a colorful floral display.
What is Red Feather Clover?
Growing red clover to enhance soil is a time honored tradition amongst organic gardeners and traditional farmers. Trifolium rubens is an ornamental form of white clover, valued for its nutrient benefits and its lovely blooms. Ornamental red clover performs the same functions as standard red clovers while enhancing the natural landscape. Red feather foxtail clover is easy to grow from seed and needs little care or maintenance.
This clover provides the most arresting floral display of all the species and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Bees love the flowers too! The plant grows 15 inches tall and has fuzzy purple to red flowers from early to late summer. It is an herbaceous perennial with characteristic clover leaves and a spreading stolen system that allows the plant to clamber over and cover large spaces.
Red clover is even edible and can be used as a tea, animal browse, or sprouted for salads. If you are growing red clover for its edible or medicinal properties, make sure no chemicals are used in the area. Other benefits of growing red clover include its ability to break up soil and prevent erosion.
How to Grow Ornamental Clover Plants
Clover thrives in moist or dry conditions but drainage should be good. Slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5 are preferred. You can plant the clover in full sun or partial shade, although full sun provides the best yields. Sow the tiny seeds in a well-prepared bed from January to April or August to November. Plant seeds at ¼ inch deep or even scatter them on the surface of the soil and lightly dust them with earth. Keep them moderately moist until germination, which is generally 14 to 21 days. You may also choose to start plants indoors in flats. Transplant them outside when there are 6 true leaves and soil has warmed. Water established plants regularly. Choose your site carefully, as red clover has a tendency to spread and become invasive.
Red Clover Care
You may choose to cut back seed heads to prevent over-sowing of seeds and invasion of other beds. Otherwise, you can opt to till late summer planted clover in spring to increase soil fertility. Plants sown in late winter to early summer may be allowed to persist as a ground cover and cover crop to combat weeds and enhance soil properties. If you choose to harvest the plant for consumption, take fresh flowers and leaves at any time. Ornamental red clover can be harvested up to three times in the season. You may dry them or use them fresh.
Sprouted clover seeds add a unique texture and flavor to salads and sandwiches. Soak seeds in warm water for 6 hours and then put them in a shallow bowl or seed sprouter. Place the container in a dark location for 3 days, rinsing and draining the seed twice per day. By the fourth day, you should seed sprouts and it is time to move them to a light location to develop green color and maximum nutrients. Use them as you would any sprout.
What is Red Feather Clover?
Growing red clover to enhance soil is a time honored tradition amongst organic gardeners and traditional farmers. Trifolium rubens is an ornamental form of white clover, valued for its nutrient benefits and its lovely blooms. Ornamental red clover performs the same functions as standard red clovers while enhancing the natural landscape. Red feather foxtail clover is easy to grow from seed and needs little care or maintenance.
This clover provides the most arresting floral display of all the species and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Bees love the flowers too! The plant grows 15 inches tall and has fuzzy purple to red flowers from early to late summer. It is an herbaceous perennial with characteristic clover leaves and a spreading stolen system that allows the plant to clamber over and cover large spaces.
Red clover is even edible and can be used as a tea, animal browse, or sprouted for salads. If you are growing red clover for its edible or medicinal properties, make sure no chemicals are used in the area. Other benefits of growing red clover include its ability to break up soil and prevent erosion.
How to Grow Ornamental Clover Plants
Clover thrives in moist or dry conditions but drainage should be good. Slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5 are preferred. You can plant the clover in full sun or partial shade, although full sun provides the best yields. Sow the tiny seeds in a well-prepared bed from January to April or August to November. Plant seeds at ¼ inch deep or even scatter them on the surface of the soil and lightly dust them with earth. Keep them moderately moist until germination, which is generally 14 to 21 days. You may also choose to start plants indoors in flats. Transplant them outside when there are 6 true leaves and soil has warmed. Water established plants regularly. Choose your site carefully, as red clover has a tendency to spread and become invasive.
Red Clover Care
You may choose to cut back seed heads to prevent over-sowing of seeds and invasion of other beds. Otherwise, you can opt to till late summer planted clover in spring to increase soil fertility. Plants sown in late winter to early summer may be allowed to persist as a ground cover and cover crop to combat weeds and enhance soil properties. If you choose to harvest the plant for consumption, take fresh flowers and leaves at any time. Ornamental red clover can be harvested up to three times in the season. You may dry them or use them fresh.
Sprouted clover seeds add a unique texture and flavor to salads and sandwiches. Soak seeds in warm water for 6 hours and then put them in a shallow bowl or seed sprouter. Place the container in a dark location for 3 days, rinsing and draining the seed twice per day. By the fourth day, you should seed sprouts and it is time to move them to a light location to develop green color and maximum nutrients. Use them as you would any sprout.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
The common periwinkle plant (Vinca minor) is often spotted creeping down steep hillsides and banks, offering a green and growing affect in areas which might otherwise be bare. The periwinkle plant is exceptional as an erosion control specimen. Periwinkle is also used as a spreading shrub in USDA garden zones 4 to 8. Periwinkle is often also called creeping vinca. Periwinkle is most often grown as a ground cover. The periwinkle plant takes its common name from the attractive blooms that dot the foliage in April to May, appearing in the color of periwinkle blue. More than 30 varieties of this plant exist, some with variegated foliage and other colors of blooms. When planting periwinkle, choose what best suits your landscape.
How to Grow Periwinkle Plants
This broadleaf evergreen plant grows easily and periwinkle care most often involves keeping the prolific spreader in check. Periwinkle, once established, is drought resistant and needs little other care if properly sited in the landscape. Periwinkle care after planting may include the removal of tall weeds in the area. Once established, growing periwinkle will likely shade out future growth of weeds and eliminate this chore.
The periwinkle plant grows best in a partially shaded area in acidic soil; however, it can thrive in a variety of sunlight and soil conditions. Growing periwinkle in partial shade creates more vigorous growth. In many instances, extreme vigor may not be desirable unless the periwinkle plant needs to cover a large area. One small plant can spread to 8 feet across. Growing periwinkle as a ground cover is common as it rarely reaches more than 4 inches in height. Periwinkle is best used for controlling erosion as described above. Do not plant near other specimens in the flower bed or garden, as it may overtake and choke out valuable plantings. This plant may be used as a climber on a non-living support and is useful for blocking views when used in this way.
Before planting periwinkle, make sure it is what you want in the area, as it is difficult to remove once established. Periwinkle appears low on the exotic invasive list, but can escape cultivation in the garden. It is rarely found escaping into undisturbed woodlands. Now that you know how to grow periwinkle and manage its growth, you can make an informed decision before planting the specimen in your landscape. Periwinkle ground cover should not be confused with annual periwinkle, as annual periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus) is a different plant.
How to Grow Periwinkle Plants
This broadleaf evergreen plant grows easily and periwinkle care most often involves keeping the prolific spreader in check. Periwinkle, once established, is drought resistant and needs little other care if properly sited in the landscape. Periwinkle care after planting may include the removal of tall weeds in the area. Once established, growing periwinkle will likely shade out future growth of weeds and eliminate this chore.
The periwinkle plant grows best in a partially shaded area in acidic soil; however, it can thrive in a variety of sunlight and soil conditions. Growing periwinkle in partial shade creates more vigorous growth. In many instances, extreme vigor may not be desirable unless the periwinkle plant needs to cover a large area. One small plant can spread to 8 feet across. Growing periwinkle as a ground cover is common as it rarely reaches more than 4 inches in height. Periwinkle is best used for controlling erosion as described above. Do not plant near other specimens in the flower bed or garden, as it may overtake and choke out valuable plantings. This plant may be used as a climber on a non-living support and is useful for blocking views when used in this way.
Before planting periwinkle, make sure it is what you want in the area, as it is difficult to remove once established. Periwinkle appears low on the exotic invasive list, but can escape cultivation in the garden. It is rarely found escaping into undisturbed woodlands. Now that you know how to grow periwinkle and manage its growth, you can make an informed decision before planting the specimen in your landscape. Periwinkle ground cover should not be confused with annual periwinkle, as annual periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus) is a different plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
What is a Mexican heather plant? Also known as false heather, Mexican heather (Cuphea hyssopifolia) is a flowering groundcover that produces masses of bright green leaves. Small pink, white or lavender flowers decorate the plant throughout most of the year. Mexican heather plants, which actually aren’t members of the heather family, are suitable for growing in the warm climates of USDA plant hardiness zones 9 to 11. You can grow Mexican heather as an annual if you live in a chillier climate.
How to Plant Mexican Heather
Planting Mexican heather is uninvolved, although the plant benefits from a little added compost or manure if soil is poor. Allow at least 18 inches (46 cm.) between each plant. This tough, drought-tolerant plant loves direct sunlight and thrives in intense heat. Remember that although Mexican heather plants grow in a wide range of soils, good drainage is critical.
Care of Mexican Heather
Water Mexican heather plants deeply about once every week, then allow the soil to dry slightly before watering again. Container plants will need water more often, especially during the summer months. Prune Mexican heather lightly during the spring if the plant looks scraggly or overgrown. Otherwise, no pruning is required. Surround the plant with a thin layer of mulch in spring to minimize moisture evaporation and keep weeds in check. Feed the plant in spring, summer and fall, using a balanced, general-purpose fertilizer.
Healthy Mexican heather plants are seldom bothered by insects. However, if you notice spider mites during hot, dry weather, treat the pests with insecticidal soap spray on a day when the sun isn’t directly on the plant. Insecticidal soap spray with a few drops of rubbing alcohol will also take care of flea beetles.
How to Plant Mexican Heather
Planting Mexican heather is uninvolved, although the plant benefits from a little added compost or manure if soil is poor. Allow at least 18 inches (46 cm.) between each plant. This tough, drought-tolerant plant loves direct sunlight and thrives in intense heat. Remember that although Mexican heather plants grow in a wide range of soils, good drainage is critical.
Care of Mexican Heather
Water Mexican heather plants deeply about once every week, then allow the soil to dry slightly before watering again. Container plants will need water more often, especially during the summer months. Prune Mexican heather lightly during the spring if the plant looks scraggly or overgrown. Otherwise, no pruning is required. Surround the plant with a thin layer of mulch in spring to minimize moisture evaporation and keep weeds in check. Feed the plant in spring, summer and fall, using a balanced, general-purpose fertilizer.
Healthy Mexican heather plants are seldom bothered by insects. However, if you notice spider mites during hot, dry weather, treat the pests with insecticidal soap spray on a day when the sun isn’t directly on the plant. Insecticidal soap spray with a few drops of rubbing alcohol will also take care of flea beetles.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Also known as striped and spotted wintergreen, Pipsissewa (Chimaphila maculata) is a low-growing plant distinguished by nodding, pale pink or waxy white blooms and forest-green foliage decorated with contrasting, creamy white stripes. This charming woodland plant isn’t difficult to grow and care of Pipssisewa plants is simple. Read on for more Pipsissewa plant info.
Growing Pipsissewa Plants
Pipsissewa plants are often gathered in the wild. Do your research first; the plants are vulnerable in some areas and may be protected by law. If harvesting Pipsissewa in the wild is acceptable, dig the rhizomes carefully from a large, healthy population. Take care not to disturb or trample the plant. If you’re lucky enough to have a friend with extra plants, you can easily start your own plants without threatening the native population. You can also propagate Pipsissewa plants by taking cuttings in June or by planting ripe seeds. The latter may not be the best option, however, as seeds often fail to germinate. If you decide to try propagation by seed, plant the seeds in moist peat moss mixed with a small amount of soil gathered from the area around the plant. With cuttings, it’s best to grow using some of the same planting medium from where it came, as the plant shares a mycorrhiza relationship for uptake of water and nutrients, and this will increase your chances of success.
Pipsissewa Uses in the Garden
Pipsissewa is a welcome addition to a wildflower or woodland garden, or as a ground cover in semi-shady areas. These plants also enjoy humus-rich soil similar to that found in wooded areas. Additionally, Pipsissewa leaves are edible and are often enjoyed for their crisp, refreshing texture, or brewed as tea, making them great additions for tea gardens too – as a word of caution, Pipsissewa wintergreen plants should not be confused with the wintergreen plant, Gaultheria procumbens.
Care of Pipsissewa Plants
Care of Pipsissewa plants involves keeping the soil relatively moist, as the plant doesn’t tolerate dry soil. Otherwise, this fuss-free little plant will grow for many years with no particular effort on your part.
Growing Pipsissewa Plants
Pipsissewa plants are often gathered in the wild. Do your research first; the plants are vulnerable in some areas and may be protected by law. If harvesting Pipsissewa in the wild is acceptable, dig the rhizomes carefully from a large, healthy population. Take care not to disturb or trample the plant. If you’re lucky enough to have a friend with extra plants, you can easily start your own plants without threatening the native population. You can also propagate Pipsissewa plants by taking cuttings in June or by planting ripe seeds. The latter may not be the best option, however, as seeds often fail to germinate. If you decide to try propagation by seed, plant the seeds in moist peat moss mixed with a small amount of soil gathered from the area around the plant. With cuttings, it’s best to grow using some of the same planting medium from where it came, as the plant shares a mycorrhiza relationship for uptake of water and nutrients, and this will increase your chances of success.
Pipsissewa Uses in the Garden
Pipsissewa is a welcome addition to a wildflower or woodland garden, or as a ground cover in semi-shady areas. These plants also enjoy humus-rich soil similar to that found in wooded areas. Additionally, Pipsissewa leaves are edible and are often enjoyed for their crisp, refreshing texture, or brewed as tea, making them great additions for tea gardens too – as a word of caution, Pipsissewa wintergreen plants should not be confused with the wintergreen plant, Gaultheria procumbens.
Care of Pipsissewa Plants
Care of Pipsissewa plants involves keeping the soil relatively moist, as the plant doesn’t tolerate dry soil. Otherwise, this fuss-free little plant will grow for many years with no particular effort on your part.
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sheepdog：this plant grew wild under the pine trees on my land in SC!
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas are a perennial favorite among gardeners and with 2,500 varieties to choose from, there’s a hosta for every garden need, from ground cover to giant specimen. They come in leaf colors that range from almost white to a deep, dark, blue-green. They reach their full maturity in four to eight years and given good care and the right growing conditions, can outlive their owners. They’re a great plant to share with neighbors and friends and are prime candidates for transplanting. Hostas are easily moved once you know how. To transplant hosta plants, you’ll need a good shovel, nutritious additives for the soil, and, for larger specimens in particular, a means to move your plant.
When to Transplant Hostas
Before we discuss how to transplant hostas, we need to talk about when to transplant hostas and that involves both time of day and time of year. The best time to transplant hostas is in the spring, but that’s really because it’s easier on you, the gardener, than on the transplant. Hosta plants always need plenty of water and the trauma of transplant, no matter how slight, increases that need. So, the best time to transplant hostas is when Mother Nature is more likely to do the watering for you. It’s also easier to see the new shoots, without risk of leaf damage. If you have a choice in deciding when to transplant hostas, don’t do it in high summer when the ground is hard and the air is dry.
How to Transplant Hostas
Before transplanting hostas, it’s best to prepare their new home. Remember, when you’re thinking about the best time to transplant hostas, you should also be thinking about the best place to transplant hosta plants. They could be living there for the next fifty years. Dig the new hole wider and deeper than the old. Mix plenty of organic enrichments into the refill dirt and add some time release fertilizer, not only to help get your plants off to a good start, but to give it a healthy future as well. Dig all around the hosta clump and, using a garden shovel or fork, pop the clump out of the ground. Rinse as much of the old soil off as you can without damaging the roots and then move your hosta to its new home. Beware, hosta clumps are heavy! If you’re thinking about dividing your plants, now’s the time to do it.
Have a wheelbarrow handy or a tarp that you can use to drag the clump to its new home. Keep the roots damp and shaded, particularly if there will be a delay in when to transplant. Hosta plants depend on their root’s rapid adjustment to their new environment. Set the clump in its new home a little above the depth it was in the old. Fill in around it with the enriched soil, mounding the soil around the clump until it’s covered to a little over the depth it was before. When the soil settles over time, the clump will rest at its original depth. Keep the clump well watered for the next six to eight weeks and watch it carefully in the weeks thereafter for signs of wilt due to lack of moisture. Be aware that the first season after transplanting hosta may yield smaller leaves due to trauma, but the following year will see your plant happy and healthy once again.
When to Transplant Hostas
Before we discuss how to transplant hostas, we need to talk about when to transplant hostas and that involves both time of day and time of year. The best time to transplant hostas is in the spring, but that’s really because it’s easier on you, the gardener, than on the transplant. Hosta plants always need plenty of water and the trauma of transplant, no matter how slight, increases that need. So, the best time to transplant hostas is when Mother Nature is more likely to do the watering for you. It’s also easier to see the new shoots, without risk of leaf damage. If you have a choice in deciding when to transplant hostas, don’t do it in high summer when the ground is hard and the air is dry.
How to Transplant Hostas
Before transplanting hostas, it’s best to prepare their new home. Remember, when you’re thinking about the best time to transplant hostas, you should also be thinking about the best place to transplant hosta plants. They could be living there for the next fifty years. Dig the new hole wider and deeper than the old. Mix plenty of organic enrichments into the refill dirt and add some time release fertilizer, not only to help get your plants off to a good start, but to give it a healthy future as well. Dig all around the hosta clump and, using a garden shovel or fork, pop the clump out of the ground. Rinse as much of the old soil off as you can without damaging the roots and then move your hosta to its new home. Beware, hosta clumps are heavy! If you’re thinking about dividing your plants, now’s the time to do it.
Have a wheelbarrow handy or a tarp that you can use to drag the clump to its new home. Keep the roots damp and shaded, particularly if there will be a delay in when to transplant. Hosta plants depend on their root’s rapid adjustment to their new environment. Set the clump in its new home a little above the depth it was in the old. Fill in around it with the enriched soil, mounding the soil around the clump until it’s covered to a little over the depth it was before. When the soil settles over time, the clump will rest at its original depth. Keep the clump well watered for the next six to eight weeks and watch it carefully in the weeks thereafter for signs of wilt due to lack of moisture. Be aware that the first season after transplanting hosta may yield smaller leaves due to trauma, but the following year will see your plant happy and healthy once again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
One of the beautiful features of hostas are their rich green leaves. When you find your hosta plant leaves turning yellow, you know something is wrong. Yellowing leaves on hosta doesn’t necessarily mean disaster, but it is definitely time to investigate. The problem could be anything from too much sun to incurable diseases. If you want to find out why hosta leaves turn yellow, read on.
Reasons for Yellow Hosta Leaves
Hosta leaves turn yellow for a wide variety of reasons, and it is important for you to figure out the particular reason that applies to your plant.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow from Scorch
Perhaps the easiest situation to remedy is when yellow hosta leaves indicate too much sun. Hosta are plants that grow best in partial shade or even full shade. In fact, they are regular fixtures in the shade garden. If you grow them in full sun, you can expect yellow hosta leaves. The foliage turns yellow and scorches at the margins. When you see hosta plant leaves turning yellow because of too much sun, it is termed hosta scorch. Hosta scorch is even more pronounced if the plant is also grown in poor soil. The plant prefers soil rich in organic matter that will hold water. During a drought, or when dried out in full sun, the hosta leaves become pale and the margins scorch. You can give the plant temporary relief by watering well early in the day, but the better and more permanent solution is to transplant the hosta to a shaded site in high organic matter soil.
Yellowing Leaves on Hosta Indicating Disease
When yellow hosta leaves indicate disease, the options for treating the problem are more difficult. When you see yellowing leaves on hosta, the plant may have petiole rot, caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii var. delphinii. The earliest symptoms are yellowing and browning of the lower leaf margins. If you see brown, mushy decay and white fungal threads or fungal fruiting structures about the size of mustard seeds at the base of the petiole, your plant probably has this disease. You cannot save plants infected with petiole rot. Prevent the problem by inspecting young plants carefully before you plant them. You should also remove and destroy all infected plants and remove and replace the soil to 8 inches.
Other fungal diseases, rots and virus diseases that cause yellowing leaves on hosta are equally impossible to cure. For fusarium root and crown rot, bacterial soft rot, hosta virus X and other viruses, all you can do is remove the plants and destroy them, trying not to spread the disease to other plants. Since fungal diseases live in the soil and attack hosta at or below the surface of the soil, you may need to kill the fungus by solarizing the soil with black plastic. Be sure to keep your garden tools clean, keep the area free of debris, and avoid transplanting diseased plants. Other fungal diseases, such as root and stem rot, are generally caused by excessive moisture and are usually deadly. Be careful not to overwater and don’t limit air circulation by crowding the plants. Water your hosta at the soil level to keep the leaves dry.
Pests Causing Yellow Hosta Leaves
Foliar nematodes are microscopic worms that live inside the leaves. Symptoms, which are usually first noticed in June, begin as a yellow discoloration that later turn into brown streaks between the leaf veins. Keep an eye on the plant and remove affected leaves immediately to prevent the pests from spreading.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow Naturally
Once the growing season dies down, hostas will naturally begin to enter dormancy. When this happens, you may notice yellowing hosta leaves. This is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. Once the leaves have completely died back in fall, you can cut the plant back.
Reasons for Yellow Hosta Leaves
Hosta leaves turn yellow for a wide variety of reasons, and it is important for you to figure out the particular reason that applies to your plant.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow from Scorch
Perhaps the easiest situation to remedy is when yellow hosta leaves indicate too much sun. Hosta are plants that grow best in partial shade or even full shade. In fact, they are regular fixtures in the shade garden. If you grow them in full sun, you can expect yellow hosta leaves. The foliage turns yellow and scorches at the margins. When you see hosta plant leaves turning yellow because of too much sun, it is termed hosta scorch. Hosta scorch is even more pronounced if the plant is also grown in poor soil. The plant prefers soil rich in organic matter that will hold water. During a drought, or when dried out in full sun, the hosta leaves become pale and the margins scorch. You can give the plant temporary relief by watering well early in the day, but the better and more permanent solution is to transplant the hosta to a shaded site in high organic matter soil.
Yellowing Leaves on Hosta Indicating Disease
When yellow hosta leaves indicate disease, the options for treating the problem are more difficult. When you see yellowing leaves on hosta, the plant may have petiole rot, caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii var. delphinii. The earliest symptoms are yellowing and browning of the lower leaf margins. If you see brown, mushy decay and white fungal threads or fungal fruiting structures about the size of mustard seeds at the base of the petiole, your plant probably has this disease. You cannot save plants infected with petiole rot. Prevent the problem by inspecting young plants carefully before you plant them. You should also remove and destroy all infected plants and remove and replace the soil to 8 inches.
Other fungal diseases, rots and virus diseases that cause yellowing leaves on hosta are equally impossible to cure. For fusarium root and crown rot, bacterial soft rot, hosta virus X and other viruses, all you can do is remove the plants and destroy them, trying not to spread the disease to other plants. Since fungal diseases live in the soil and attack hosta at or below the surface of the soil, you may need to kill the fungus by solarizing the soil with black plastic. Be sure to keep your garden tools clean, keep the area free of debris, and avoid transplanting diseased plants. Other fungal diseases, such as root and stem rot, are generally caused by excessive moisture and are usually deadly. Be careful not to overwater and don’t limit air circulation by crowding the plants. Water your hosta at the soil level to keep the leaves dry.
Pests Causing Yellow Hosta Leaves
Foliar nematodes are microscopic worms that live inside the leaves. Symptoms, which are usually first noticed in June, begin as a yellow discoloration that later turn into brown streaks between the leaf veins. Keep an eye on the plant and remove affected leaves immediately to prevent the pests from spreading.
Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow Naturally
Once the growing season dies down, hostas will naturally begin to enter dormancy. When this happens, you may notice yellowing hosta leaves. This is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. Once the leaves have completely died back in fall, you can cut the plant back.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Gardeners go for hosta plants because of their lush greenery and shade tolerance. These popular shade plants offer an entrancing variety of foliage, from smooth leaves to puckered leaves, green or yellow or blue leaves, and leaves the size of a quarter to leaves as big as a plate. But pests can attack foliage and make it ragged. And come winter, the foliage of these perennials wilt and die back. These are the times to sanitize your pruners and get to cutting back hosta plants. Read on for information on how to prune hostas.
Can You Cut Back Hostas?
Can you cut back hostas? Yes, there’s no law against pruning hosta plants, and if you decide to undertake the task, your garden will thank you. For example, you can begin cutting back hosta plants if you don’t want the hosta flowers.
It may seem odd to snip off the flowers from an ornamental, but keep in mind that the glory of hostas is their foliage. Some find that the blossoms distract from the glorious mound of overlapping leaves. These gardeners snip off the flowers stems as they appear. On the other hand, the blossoms are delicate and some smell heavenly. If you decide to let the plants flower, don’t snip them off until they begin to wilt.
When to Cut Back a Hosta
When to cut back a hosta depends on why you are cutting back hosta plants. You may have noticed that pests love hosta as much as you do: snails, slugs, rabbits and even deer dine on it occasionally, leaving the plant unsightly. You’ll want to start pruning hosta plants as soon as you notice any pest damage. Cleaning up dead leaves helps prevent further damage from slugs and snails, and makes the munched plant look better.
How to Prune Hostas in the Winter
In autumn, hosta leaves turn shades of yellow and gold, then fade. This is the beginning of the plant’s dormant season, so you won’t see any more pretty foliage until spring. This is the time to get rid of dead leaves, so you’ll want to learn how to prune hostas in early winter. Dead leaves are pest friendly, so you’ll do well to start pruning hosta plants as the foliage fades. Trim back all the leaves and foliage at ground level, then back it up and dispose of it. That helps things look neat in the garden and keeps bugs from overwintering snugly in the dead leaves.
Can You Cut Back Hostas?
Can you cut back hostas? Yes, there’s no law against pruning hosta plants, and if you decide to undertake the task, your garden will thank you. For example, you can begin cutting back hosta plants if you don’t want the hosta flowers.
It may seem odd to snip off the flowers from an ornamental, but keep in mind that the glory of hostas is their foliage. Some find that the blossoms distract from the glorious mound of overlapping leaves. These gardeners snip off the flowers stems as they appear. On the other hand, the blossoms are delicate and some smell heavenly. If you decide to let the plants flower, don’t snip them off until they begin to wilt.
When to Cut Back a Hosta
When to cut back a hosta depends on why you are cutting back hosta plants. You may have noticed that pests love hosta as much as you do: snails, slugs, rabbits and even deer dine on it occasionally, leaving the plant unsightly. You’ll want to start pruning hosta plants as soon as you notice any pest damage. Cleaning up dead leaves helps prevent further damage from slugs and snails, and makes the munched plant look better.
How to Prune Hostas in the Winter
In autumn, hosta leaves turn shades of yellow and gold, then fade. This is the beginning of the plant’s dormant season, so you won’t see any more pretty foliage until spring. This is the time to get rid of dead leaves, so you’ll want to learn how to prune hostas in early winter. Dead leaves are pest friendly, so you’ll do well to start pruning hosta plants as the foliage fades. Trim back all the leaves and foliage at ground level, then back it up and dispose of it. That helps things look neat in the garden and keeps bugs from overwintering snugly in the dead leaves.
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