文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
It is always hard to find durable plants that favor punishing conditions in sandy or rocky soils. Lewisia is a gorgeous little plant perfect for such areas. What is Lewisia? It is a member of the Portulaca family, known for the attractive fleshy green leaves and ease of care common to members of this group. Lewisia bitterroot plants (Lewisia rediviva) are a favorite in my garden. With all the other garden chores required for a healthy garden, you can rest with Lewisia care. The succulents fend for themselves and bring astonishingly lovely flowers in late spring through early summer.
What is Lewisia?
Lewisia is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8. There are several species available and this native of North America performs well in alpine gardens, rockeries, planters or even in along a gravel path. Lewisia bitterroot plants are herbs with medicinal uses and a name straight from history after Meriwether Lewis, the famed explorer. An interesting bit of Lewisia plant info includes its status as the Montana state flower. Its taproot was also used as a food by the Flathead Indians. They are found in nature in pine forests, rocky mesas and gravel hillsides.
Lewisia Plant Info
This low profiled plant has a moderate growth rate and perennial status in all but the coldest and hottest zones. Some forms are deciduous and prefer bright sunlight while the evergreen varieties can thrive in partial sun. The foliage forms a rosette that rarely gets taller than 3 inches with a bloom balanced on a slender stalk that grows up to 12 inches high. The thick leaves have a waxy coating that helps the plant conserve moisture. Flowers are comprised of up to nine petals, some of which have an almost feathered appearance. Blooms come in a range of hues, from yellow, white and magenta to salmon and brilliant pink.
How to Grow Lewisia
Lewisia bitterroot plants produce offsets, which are the easiest way to propagate this interesting little succulent. Simply divide them from the parent plant and pot them up to grow a good taproot and fleshy feeder roots. You can also learn how to grow Lewisia from seed. The tiny plants take a couple of seasons to form a rosette but establish easily when sown in a sandy potting mixture. Once the plants are placed in a garden situation, provide them with moderate water, excellent drainage and a minimum of nutrients. It couldn’t be simpler to grow Lewisia bitterroot plants. The primary thing to remember is to avoid excessively fertile soil and compacted or clay situations.
Lewisia Care
I like to take off the spent flowers at the rosette so the lovely foliar arrangement can be enjoyed after bloom time. Watch for slug and snail damage and avoid overwatering as this can promote rot. The plant is not susceptible to many insect or disease problems. Provided you don’t give it too much water and it doesn’t freeze too deeply in winter, this garden gem will be with you for a long time. Enjoy the dried flowers with their nut brown little capsules of seeds at the end of the season.
What is Lewisia?
Lewisia is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8. There are several species available and this native of North America performs well in alpine gardens, rockeries, planters or even in along a gravel path. Lewisia bitterroot plants are herbs with medicinal uses and a name straight from history after Meriwether Lewis, the famed explorer. An interesting bit of Lewisia plant info includes its status as the Montana state flower. Its taproot was also used as a food by the Flathead Indians. They are found in nature in pine forests, rocky mesas and gravel hillsides.
Lewisia Plant Info
This low profiled plant has a moderate growth rate and perennial status in all but the coldest and hottest zones. Some forms are deciduous and prefer bright sunlight while the evergreen varieties can thrive in partial sun. The foliage forms a rosette that rarely gets taller than 3 inches with a bloom balanced on a slender stalk that grows up to 12 inches high. The thick leaves have a waxy coating that helps the plant conserve moisture. Flowers are comprised of up to nine petals, some of which have an almost feathered appearance. Blooms come in a range of hues, from yellow, white and magenta to salmon and brilliant pink.
How to Grow Lewisia
Lewisia bitterroot plants produce offsets, which are the easiest way to propagate this interesting little succulent. Simply divide them from the parent plant and pot them up to grow a good taproot and fleshy feeder roots. You can also learn how to grow Lewisia from seed. The tiny plants take a couple of seasons to form a rosette but establish easily when sown in a sandy potting mixture. Once the plants are placed in a garden situation, provide them with moderate water, excellent drainage and a minimum of nutrients. It couldn’t be simpler to grow Lewisia bitterroot plants. The primary thing to remember is to avoid excessively fertile soil and compacted or clay situations.
Lewisia Care
I like to take off the spent flowers at the rosette so the lovely foliar arrangement can be enjoyed after bloom time. Watch for slug and snail damage and avoid overwatering as this can promote rot. The plant is not susceptible to many insect or disease problems. Provided you don’t give it too much water and it doesn’t freeze too deeply in winter, this garden gem will be with you for a long time. Enjoy the dried flowers with their nut brown little capsules of seeds at the end of the season.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Native to warm climates of the Mediterranean, borage is a tall, sturdy herb distinguished by deep green leaves covered with fuzzy white hairs. Masses of bright borage flowers attract honeybees and other beneficial insects all summer long. Home herb gardeners can select from four primary varieties of borage, all equally beautiful and easy to grow. Read on to learn more about various borage plant types.
Borage Plant Types
Below are the common varieties of borage:
Common borage (Borago officinalis) – Also known as starflower, common borage is the most familiar of the different types of borage. Common borage displays intensely blue blooms with contrasting black stamens. Variegata (Borago officinalis ‘Variegata’) – This interesting variegated plant displays delicate blue borage flowers and green leaves mottled with white. Alba – (Borago officinalis ‘Alba’) – Also known as white borage, Alba is a great choice if you’re looking for a plant with intense white blooms. Stalks of white borage tend to be a bit sturdier than common borage and the plant usually blooms later in the season than its blue cousin.
Creeping borage (Borago pygmaea) – Creeping borage is a sprawling plant with fragrant, pale blue blooms that appear from late spring through early autumn. Most borage varieties are fast-growing annuals, but creeping borage is a short-lived perennial suitable for growing in USDA planting zones 5 and above.
All of these plants grow well in full sun, though many borage flowers tolerate partial shade. They also prefer sandy soil, but will happily grow in just about any soil type as long as it drains well. Borage likes to be kept somewhat moist throughout the growing season, but not soggy – another reason drainage is important.
Regardless of the type grown, borage can be prone to reseeding under the right conditions, so deadheading can help alleviate this should it be a concern. Now that you know about the different varieties of borage plants you can grow in the garden, you are well on your way to becoming a borage connoisseur.
Borage Plant Types
Below are the common varieties of borage:
Common borage (Borago officinalis) – Also known as starflower, common borage is the most familiar of the different types of borage. Common borage displays intensely blue blooms with contrasting black stamens. Variegata (Borago officinalis ‘Variegata’) – This interesting variegated plant displays delicate blue borage flowers and green leaves mottled with white. Alba – (Borago officinalis ‘Alba’) – Also known as white borage, Alba is a great choice if you’re looking for a plant with intense white blooms. Stalks of white borage tend to be a bit sturdier than common borage and the plant usually blooms later in the season than its blue cousin.
Creeping borage (Borago pygmaea) – Creeping borage is a sprawling plant with fragrant, pale blue blooms that appear from late spring through early autumn. Most borage varieties are fast-growing annuals, but creeping borage is a short-lived perennial suitable for growing in USDA planting zones 5 and above.
All of these plants grow well in full sun, though many borage flowers tolerate partial shade. They also prefer sandy soil, but will happily grow in just about any soil type as long as it drains well. Borage likes to be kept somewhat moist throughout the growing season, but not soggy – another reason drainage is important.
Regardless of the type grown, borage can be prone to reseeding under the right conditions, so deadheading can help alleviate this should it be a concern. Now that you know about the different varieties of borage plants you can grow in the garden, you are well on your way to becoming a borage connoisseur.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
A warm season annual native to the Mediterranean, borage is easily recognized by its bristly, grey-green leaves and five-petaled, star-shaped blooms, which are usually intense blue. However, less common varieties with white or pale blue blooms are also available. If you don’t have space in your garden, or if you’re concerned about the plant’s rambunctious growth habit, consider growing borage in containers.
Borage Growing Conditions
This beautiful herb definitely isn’t fussy. Borage prefers full sunlight but tolerates light shade. In the ground, borage thrives in rich, well-drained soil. However, potted borage plants do fine in any well-drained commercial potting soil.
Growing Borage in Pots
Borage reaches heights of 2 to 3 feet and the taproot is long and sturdy. Therefore, potted borage plants need a sturdy container with a depth and width of at least 12 inches. Although you can grow borage from seed, most gardeners prefer to start with bedding plants, which are generally available in garden centers or specialty herb stores. If you are adventurous, plant seeds directly in the container soon after the last frost in spring, or start the seeds indoors a few weeks earlier. Keep in mind that because of its long taproot, borage doesn’t transplant well. Starting the plant in its permanent home can save you trouble down the road.
Caring for Container Grown Borage
Water borage deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting media feels dry to the touch, then let the pot drain. Check often during hot, dry weather, as containerized plants dry quickly, but be careful not to let the soil become soggy, which promotes rot. Borage in containers generally requires no fertilizer. If you decide to feed the plant, use a diluted solution of a water-soluble fertilizer. Avoid overfeeding, which often promotes lush foliage but few blooms.
Borage tends to be relatively pest resistant, but the plant is sometimes bugged by aphids. If you notice the tiny pests, spray the plant with insecticidal soap spray. Pinch tips of young plants to keep borage compact and bushy, and snip the leaves as needed for use in the kitchen. You can also trim the plant if it looks overgrown in mid-summer. Be sure to deadhead blooms as soon as they wilt. Otherwise, the plant will go to seed and blooming will end early. The plant may also need stakes to keep it upright.
Borage Growing Conditions
This beautiful herb definitely isn’t fussy. Borage prefers full sunlight but tolerates light shade. In the ground, borage thrives in rich, well-drained soil. However, potted borage plants do fine in any well-drained commercial potting soil.
Growing Borage in Pots
Borage reaches heights of 2 to 3 feet and the taproot is long and sturdy. Therefore, potted borage plants need a sturdy container with a depth and width of at least 12 inches. Although you can grow borage from seed, most gardeners prefer to start with bedding plants, which are generally available in garden centers or specialty herb stores. If you are adventurous, plant seeds directly in the container soon after the last frost in spring, or start the seeds indoors a few weeks earlier. Keep in mind that because of its long taproot, borage doesn’t transplant well. Starting the plant in its permanent home can save you trouble down the road.
Caring for Container Grown Borage
Water borage deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting media feels dry to the touch, then let the pot drain. Check often during hot, dry weather, as containerized plants dry quickly, but be careful not to let the soil become soggy, which promotes rot. Borage in containers generally requires no fertilizer. If you decide to feed the plant, use a diluted solution of a water-soluble fertilizer. Avoid overfeeding, which often promotes lush foliage but few blooms.
Borage tends to be relatively pest resistant, but the plant is sometimes bugged by aphids. If you notice the tiny pests, spray the plant with insecticidal soap spray. Pinch tips of young plants to keep borage compact and bushy, and snip the leaves as needed for use in the kitchen. You can also trim the plant if it looks overgrown in mid-summer. Be sure to deadhead blooms as soon as they wilt. Otherwise, the plant will go to seed and blooming will end early. The plant may also need stakes to keep it upright.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
With their lovely purple stems and purple-veined leaves on a shiny, dark green background, Thai basil plants are grown not only for their culinary uses but also as an ornamental specimen. Keep reading for more information on Thai basil uses.
About Thai Basil Plants
Thai basil (Ocimum basilicum var. thyrsiflora) is a member of the mint family and as such has a particular sweet flavor reminiscent of anise, licorice and clove. Popular among the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, growing Thai basil has a pleasing aroma similar to sweet basil and is generally used fresh in recipes. Also referred to as ‘Sweet Thai,’ Thai basil plants grow to a height of between 12 to 18 inches with leaves 1 to 2 inches long on purple stems with purple flowers. Like sweet basil, Thai basil is a perennial.How to Plant Thai Basil
If we look at how to plant Thai basil in the home garden, our first concern is obtaining the plants. Thai basil can be purchased from the nursery or started from seed. If the choice is to purchase from the nursery, pick up a rosemary plant as well. Rosemary and Thai basil work well planted together as they enjoy similar well-drained soil, water, and fertilization. Handle the plants carefully, as they are quite delicate. Plant the new basil in a sunny area, water in and fertilize with a nutrient rich fish emulsion or seaweed solution two to three times during their active growing season. Sun is a key ingredient. Thai basil plants need at least six hours of direct sunlight to flourish. Water weekly but keep the water off the leaves; water from the base. Over-watering will cause the leaves to yellow and drop and under-watering will make flowers and buds suffer, so it is important to attain a balance when watering Thai basil.
Harvesting Thai Basil
When harvesting Thai basil, remember to be gentle as the leaves bruise easily and you don’t want that to happen until you are going to use them. Harvest the leaves in the morning when their essential oils are at their peak and the flavor of the growing Thai basil will be at a premium. Also, water the Thai basil prior to harvest to intensify the flavor. Growing Thai basil tends to be more compact than other types of basil, so harvest at the top of a group of leaves; otherwise, the stem will rot. If you make a mistake, cut the stem all the way back to the next set of leaves. Unless, you are growing Thai basil as an ornamental, cut the flower off several days before harvest so the plant can focus all its energy on the leaves. When you harvest your growing Thai basil plant, take it down to about 6 inches.
Thai Basil Uses
Now that you have harvested the basil, what are you going to do with it? Some Thai basil uses are to infuse with vinegar or oil, to flavor Pho with mint and chilies, make tea, or pair with most any chicken, pork or beef dish. Recipes online include one for making Thai basil beer and a recipe for Thai basil pesto with peanuts, rice vinegar, fish sauce and sesame oil, which will keep in the refrigerator for a week. Yum! Thai basil is usually used fresh, preferably soon after harvesting, but you can also chop it up or run it through a food processor and freeze in ice cube trays. Once frozen, remove from the tray and store in resealable bags in the freezer for up to two months. Thai basil may also be used as an aromatherapy treatment by bruising the leaves and inhaling their aroma. They can also be bruised and rubbed beneath the eyes and on the forehead for a relaxing reprieve from a long stressful day.
About Thai Basil Plants
Thai basil (Ocimum basilicum var. thyrsiflora) is a member of the mint family and as such has a particular sweet flavor reminiscent of anise, licorice and clove. Popular among the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, growing Thai basil has a pleasing aroma similar to sweet basil and is generally used fresh in recipes. Also referred to as ‘Sweet Thai,’ Thai basil plants grow to a height of between 12 to 18 inches with leaves 1 to 2 inches long on purple stems with purple flowers. Like sweet basil, Thai basil is a perennial.How to Plant Thai Basil
If we look at how to plant Thai basil in the home garden, our first concern is obtaining the plants. Thai basil can be purchased from the nursery or started from seed. If the choice is to purchase from the nursery, pick up a rosemary plant as well. Rosemary and Thai basil work well planted together as they enjoy similar well-drained soil, water, and fertilization. Handle the plants carefully, as they are quite delicate. Plant the new basil in a sunny area, water in and fertilize with a nutrient rich fish emulsion or seaweed solution two to three times during their active growing season. Sun is a key ingredient. Thai basil plants need at least six hours of direct sunlight to flourish. Water weekly but keep the water off the leaves; water from the base. Over-watering will cause the leaves to yellow and drop and under-watering will make flowers and buds suffer, so it is important to attain a balance when watering Thai basil.
Harvesting Thai Basil
When harvesting Thai basil, remember to be gentle as the leaves bruise easily and you don’t want that to happen until you are going to use them. Harvest the leaves in the morning when their essential oils are at their peak and the flavor of the growing Thai basil will be at a premium. Also, water the Thai basil prior to harvest to intensify the flavor. Growing Thai basil tends to be more compact than other types of basil, so harvest at the top of a group of leaves; otherwise, the stem will rot. If you make a mistake, cut the stem all the way back to the next set of leaves. Unless, you are growing Thai basil as an ornamental, cut the flower off several days before harvest so the plant can focus all its energy on the leaves. When you harvest your growing Thai basil plant, take it down to about 6 inches.
Thai Basil Uses
Now that you have harvested the basil, what are you going to do with it? Some Thai basil uses are to infuse with vinegar or oil, to flavor Pho with mint and chilies, make tea, or pair with most any chicken, pork or beef dish. Recipes online include one for making Thai basil beer and a recipe for Thai basil pesto with peanuts, rice vinegar, fish sauce and sesame oil, which will keep in the refrigerator for a week. Yum! Thai basil is usually used fresh, preferably soon after harvesting, but you can also chop it up or run it through a food processor and freeze in ice cube trays. Once frozen, remove from the tray and store in resealable bags in the freezer for up to two months. Thai basil may also be used as an aromatherapy treatment by bruising the leaves and inhaling their aroma. They can also be bruised and rubbed beneath the eyes and on the forehead for a relaxing reprieve from a long stressful day.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Basil is a sun-loving herb valued for its bright green foliage and distinctive flavor. Although basil is usually easy to get along with, it can develop droopy leaves that can ultimately shorten the life of the plant. Read on to learn more about why your basil is starting to wilt and what can be done about it.
Why Does Basil Wilt?
Healthy basil plants require at least eight hours of sunlight every day, well-drained soil, and enough space to allow for plenty of air circulation. If you are meeting the plant’s basic needs and your basil plant keeps falling over anyway, there may be a more serious problem.
Fusarium Wilt
Basil plant droop that appears suddenly on young plants is often caused by fusarium wilt, a fungal disease that causes stunted growth and droopy, wilted or yellow leaves. The first signs of trouble are decreased growth and leaves with a cupped appearance. Eventually, leaves may drop from the plant. Fusarium wilt is difficult to manage and can remain in the soil for eight to 12 years. If you suspect your plant is infected with fusarium, you’ll probably have to start fresh with a new plant in a completely different location. Prevention is the best solution for fusarium wilt. Purchase healthy, disease-resistant plants. If you plant basil seeds, be sure the package indicates the seeds are fusarium tested.
Root Rot
Root rot is another common reason for droopy basil plants. Rot is a water-borne disease generally caused by improper irrigation or poorly drained soil. Let the soil dry slightly between watering, but don’t allow it to become bone dry. If the basil is in a pot, ensure the plant drains thoroughly after watering and never let the pot stand in water.
Leaf Spot
If your basil plant is starting to wilt and you notice brown, water-soaked spots on the leaves, it may be infected by various fungal diseases known as leaf spot. Remove affected leaves at the first sign of infection. To prevent the disease, water at the base of the plant and never use a sprinkler or spray attachment. If the disease isn’t serious, a fungal spray may help.
Pests
Aphids, spider mites and other insects can suck the sap from aphids, which may cause droopy leaves. Most sap-sucking insects are easily removed by spraying the leaves with an insecticidal soap spray. Use the spray strictly according to directions. Never spray the plant when the sun is directly on the foliage, or when temperatures are above 90 degrees F./32 degrees C.
Why Does Basil Wilt?
Healthy basil plants require at least eight hours of sunlight every day, well-drained soil, and enough space to allow for plenty of air circulation. If you are meeting the plant’s basic needs and your basil plant keeps falling over anyway, there may be a more serious problem.
Fusarium Wilt
Basil plant droop that appears suddenly on young plants is often caused by fusarium wilt, a fungal disease that causes stunted growth and droopy, wilted or yellow leaves. The first signs of trouble are decreased growth and leaves with a cupped appearance. Eventually, leaves may drop from the plant. Fusarium wilt is difficult to manage and can remain in the soil for eight to 12 years. If you suspect your plant is infected with fusarium, you’ll probably have to start fresh with a new plant in a completely different location. Prevention is the best solution for fusarium wilt. Purchase healthy, disease-resistant plants. If you plant basil seeds, be sure the package indicates the seeds are fusarium tested.
Root Rot
Root rot is another common reason for droopy basil plants. Rot is a water-borne disease generally caused by improper irrigation or poorly drained soil. Let the soil dry slightly between watering, but don’t allow it to become bone dry. If the basil is in a pot, ensure the plant drains thoroughly after watering and never let the pot stand in water.
Leaf Spot
If your basil plant is starting to wilt and you notice brown, water-soaked spots on the leaves, it may be infected by various fungal diseases known as leaf spot. Remove affected leaves at the first sign of infection. To prevent the disease, water at the base of the plant and never use a sprinkler or spray attachment. If the disease isn’t serious, a fungal spray may help.
Pests
Aphids, spider mites and other insects can suck the sap from aphids, which may cause droopy leaves. Most sap-sucking insects are easily removed by spraying the leaves with an insecticidal soap spray. Use the spray strictly according to directions. Never spray the plant when the sun is directly on the foliage, or when temperatures are above 90 degrees F./32 degrees C.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
There are many reasons a spider plant may become discolored. If your spider plant is losing green color or you discover that part of a usually variegated spider plant is solid green, continue reading to learn some reasons and solutions.
Why is Spider Plant Losing Green Color?
In variegated plants, the white colored parts lack chlorophyll and cannot photosynthesize. If your spider plant is losing its green color, it is not able to absorb enough energy from the sun to keep it healthy and vigorous.
Most commonly this bleaching of the leaves is caused by too much sunlight. With too much sun, our skin tans or burns, but sunburn in plants causes leaves to bleach and blanch. For a spider plant that is turning white, first trying putting it in an area with less direct light. Spider plants especially don’t like direct afternoon sun. If your spider plant is losing its green color and a change of lighting doesn’t help, it could be iron deficient. Try a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen level like 12-5-7. Fluoride in tap water can also cause spider plants to discolor. You can leach the fluoride out by deep watering with distilled water.
Solid Green Spider Plant
Solid green spider plants occur naturally when plants revert to a parent plant. Variegation in plants is usually a genetic mutation. These mutations are propagated by breeders to create new plant varieties. Sometimes, the original genes can resurface. All green spiderettes can be snipped off and planted as new all green plants. Occasionally, when spider plant is turning green, it can be an indication of a serious problem. Turning solid green is a survival tragedy for plants that are struggling. It may be reverting back to a more successful form. It could be creating more food producing cells because it is lacking sunlight or nutrients, or is trying to fight pests or disease.
If your spider plant is turning green, repot it into fresh soil and give it a dose of rooting fertilizer. Be sure to clean the rhizomes when you take it out of its pot, look for pest damage and treat immediately. Set the plant in a location with different lighting and water only with distilled water. In most cases, with just a few changes in watering, location and growing medium, your spider plant may quickly recover from whatever is stressing it and causing it to discolor.
Why is Spider Plant Losing Green Color?
In variegated plants, the white colored parts lack chlorophyll and cannot photosynthesize. If your spider plant is losing its green color, it is not able to absorb enough energy from the sun to keep it healthy and vigorous.
Most commonly this bleaching of the leaves is caused by too much sunlight. With too much sun, our skin tans or burns, but sunburn in plants causes leaves to bleach and blanch. For a spider plant that is turning white, first trying putting it in an area with less direct light. Spider plants especially don’t like direct afternoon sun. If your spider plant is losing its green color and a change of lighting doesn’t help, it could be iron deficient. Try a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen level like 12-5-7. Fluoride in tap water can also cause spider plants to discolor. You can leach the fluoride out by deep watering with distilled water.
Solid Green Spider Plant
Solid green spider plants occur naturally when plants revert to a parent plant. Variegation in plants is usually a genetic mutation. These mutations are propagated by breeders to create new plant varieties. Sometimes, the original genes can resurface. All green spiderettes can be snipped off and planted as new all green plants. Occasionally, when spider plant is turning green, it can be an indication of a serious problem. Turning solid green is a survival tragedy for plants that are struggling. It may be reverting back to a more successful form. It could be creating more food producing cells because it is lacking sunlight or nutrients, or is trying to fight pests or disease.
If your spider plant is turning green, repot it into fresh soil and give it a dose of rooting fertilizer. Be sure to clean the rhizomes when you take it out of its pot, look for pest damage and treat immediately. Set the plant in a location with different lighting and water only with distilled water. In most cases, with just a few changes in watering, location and growing medium, your spider plant may quickly recover from whatever is stressing it and causing it to discolor.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber plant (Ficus elastica) is a distinctive plant easily recognized by its upright growth habit and thick, glossy, deep green leaves. Rubber plant thrives outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, but it is grown as an indoor plant in most climates. Although the plant is relatively trouble-free, it can fall prey to various pests and diseases that can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. What causes rubber plant leaves to curl? There are several possible reasons.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If you’re looking up how to repot rubber tree plants, you probably already have one. Whether you have the variety ‘Rubra,’ with dark green leaves and light-colored mid-veins, or ‘Tricolor,’ with variegated leaves, their needs are essentially the same. Rubber plants don’t mind being grown in pots because they originate in Southeast Asian rainforests where, like most rainforests, the soil layer is very thin and plants typically don’t root as deeply as those in temperate forests. Keep reading to learn more about rubber tree plant potting.
When Does Rubber Plant Need a New Pot?
If your rubber plant is still small and/or you don’t want it to grow much or to grow slowly, your plant may only need a little top dressing. If this is the case, simply scrape off the top half inch to inch (1.2 to 2.5 cm.) of soil and replace it with an equal layer of potting soil, compost, or another medium that contains slow-releasing nutrients. However, there will come a time when it is necessary to provide new space as well as nutrients to maintain the health and growth of your rubber tree plant. Potting it up is especially necessary if the rootball appears to be girdled, or growing around the sides of the pot. This tells you that you’re a bit past due for upgrading your plant to a bigger pot.
Repotting a Rubber Plant
Pick a pot that is somewhat larger than your current one without being excessively bigger. Usually increasing the pot size by 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) in diameter is sufficient for a large potted plant. If you use a pot that is too much larger than the current rootball, the soil may stay wet for too long after watering because there are no roots in the added soil to draw out the water, which can lead to root rot. This is also a good time to consider the plant’s growth since the last time it was put in a pot. When repotting a rubber plant that has gained a lot of top growth, you may need to choose a heavier pot or weigh down the pot by adding some sand to the growing medium to prevent tipping over, especially if you have children or animals that may occasionally pull on the plant. If you do use sand, be sure to use a coarse builder’s sand and not a fine child’s play sand. You’ll need the mix to contain a good amount of fertility in order to support the growth of the rubber plant for the next few months. Compost and potting soil both contain a good mix of slow-releasing nutrients that will help your rubber plant to thrive.
How to Repot Rubber Tree Plants
Once you have everything you need for repotting your rubber plant, it’s time to change pots. Remove the plant from its current pot and tease the roots some. This is also a good time to inspect the roots and perform any necessary root pruning. Add a fair amount of your soil medium to the base of the new pot. Situate the rubber plant on top of this, adjusting as needed. You want the surface of the root ball just below the rim, and simply fill in around and over the root ball with soil. Be sure to leave about an inch (2.5 cm.) or so of space from the rim of the pot for watering.
When Does Rubber Plant Need a New Pot?
If your rubber plant is still small and/or you don’t want it to grow much or to grow slowly, your plant may only need a little top dressing. If this is the case, simply scrape off the top half inch to inch (1.2 to 2.5 cm.) of soil and replace it with an equal layer of potting soil, compost, or another medium that contains slow-releasing nutrients. However, there will come a time when it is necessary to provide new space as well as nutrients to maintain the health and growth of your rubber tree plant. Potting it up is especially necessary if the rootball appears to be girdled, or growing around the sides of the pot. This tells you that you’re a bit past due for upgrading your plant to a bigger pot.
Repotting a Rubber Plant
Pick a pot that is somewhat larger than your current one without being excessively bigger. Usually increasing the pot size by 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) in diameter is sufficient for a large potted plant. If you use a pot that is too much larger than the current rootball, the soil may stay wet for too long after watering because there are no roots in the added soil to draw out the water, which can lead to root rot. This is also a good time to consider the plant’s growth since the last time it was put in a pot. When repotting a rubber plant that has gained a lot of top growth, you may need to choose a heavier pot or weigh down the pot by adding some sand to the growing medium to prevent tipping over, especially if you have children or animals that may occasionally pull on the plant. If you do use sand, be sure to use a coarse builder’s sand and not a fine child’s play sand. You’ll need the mix to contain a good amount of fertility in order to support the growth of the rubber plant for the next few months. Compost and potting soil both contain a good mix of slow-releasing nutrients that will help your rubber plant to thrive.
How to Repot Rubber Tree Plants
Once you have everything you need for repotting your rubber plant, it’s time to change pots. Remove the plant from its current pot and tease the roots some. This is also a good time to inspect the roots and perform any necessary root pruning. Add a fair amount of your soil medium to the base of the new pot. Situate the rubber plant on top of this, adjusting as needed. You want the surface of the root ball just below the rim, and simply fill in around and over the root ball with soil. Be sure to leave about an inch (2.5 cm.) or so of space from the rim of the pot for watering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
The peace lily is an ornamental plant generally sold for the home interior. It produces a white spathe or flower, which is forced by commercial growers to make it more appealing at market. Once the spathe is gone, you are left with lovely glossy green leaves, but what if you want that flower back. Often, a peace lily won’t flower no matter how you care for it. This can be frustrating but there is a very good reason for this condition.
Peace Lily Facts
Peace lilies are members of the same family as philodendrons, both of which are Aroids. They are very popular tropical houseplants. Peace lily’s flower is especially appealing set amongst the dark green leaves. It lasts for at least a month but then eventually fades and dies. A peace lily never flowers until it is mature. Professional growers know how to get a peace lily plant to bloom on command. They use a natural plant hormone to stimulate the plant into production.
It is not uncommon to find a peace lily not blooming, even when it is a healthy plant. They are native to the tropical Americas and found in dense forests where dappled sun is the chief source of light. They need humus rich soil and moderate moisture. The optimum growing conditions are between 65 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit (18-30 C). Warmer conditions encourage blooming. The white spathe is actually not the flower but a modified leaf that encloses the actual flowers, which are tiny and insignificant. A peace lily won’t flower unless it is moist and warm enough with gentle lighting.
When Do Peace Lilies Flower?
Peace lilies are sold with a flower or spathe. It is an attractive feature, rising up creamy white from the center of the arching sword-like foliage. They are forced to bloom with gibberellic acid, a natural plant hormone that stimulates cell division and elongation. The plants used to be raised to maturity and natural flowering before the appearance of gibberellic acid. The process could take up to a year before there were sellable plants. Your plant is usually not mature when it comes from a commercial grower today. That means it is not old enough to flower naturally. Additionally, site conditions need to be ideal and the plant needs to be fertilized. When do peace lilies flower? They naturally flower in spring or early summer.
How to Get a Peace Lily Plant to Bloom
Your best chance if your peace lily never flowers is to check that you are giving it the correct cultivation. It needs well-draining potting soil, rich in organic matter. Water the plant two or three times per week. It is bet to use distilled water, as these plants can be sensitive to some minerals and chemicals found in tap water. Try feeding your plant a balanced houseplant fertilizer every 2 to 3 months. Keep the plant in a low light situation out of direct sunlight, but bright enough you could read a book. Gradually move the plant to brighter light if it is in a very dark room. This could spur a peace lily not blooming to flower just by virtue of more candles of light.
Peace Lily Facts
Peace lilies are members of the same family as philodendrons, both of which are Aroids. They are very popular tropical houseplants. Peace lily’s flower is especially appealing set amongst the dark green leaves. It lasts for at least a month but then eventually fades and dies. A peace lily never flowers until it is mature. Professional growers know how to get a peace lily plant to bloom on command. They use a natural plant hormone to stimulate the plant into production.
It is not uncommon to find a peace lily not blooming, even when it is a healthy plant. They are native to the tropical Americas and found in dense forests where dappled sun is the chief source of light. They need humus rich soil and moderate moisture. The optimum growing conditions are between 65 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit (18-30 C). Warmer conditions encourage blooming. The white spathe is actually not the flower but a modified leaf that encloses the actual flowers, which are tiny and insignificant. A peace lily won’t flower unless it is moist and warm enough with gentle lighting.
When Do Peace Lilies Flower?
Peace lilies are sold with a flower or spathe. It is an attractive feature, rising up creamy white from the center of the arching sword-like foliage. They are forced to bloom with gibberellic acid, a natural plant hormone that stimulates cell division and elongation. The plants used to be raised to maturity and natural flowering before the appearance of gibberellic acid. The process could take up to a year before there were sellable plants. Your plant is usually not mature when it comes from a commercial grower today. That means it is not old enough to flower naturally. Additionally, site conditions need to be ideal and the plant needs to be fertilized. When do peace lilies flower? They naturally flower in spring or early summer.
How to Get a Peace Lily Plant to Bloom
Your best chance if your peace lily never flowers is to check that you are giving it the correct cultivation. It needs well-draining potting soil, rich in organic matter. Water the plant two or three times per week. It is bet to use distilled water, as these plants can be sensitive to some minerals and chemicals found in tap water. Try feeding your plant a balanced houseplant fertilizer every 2 to 3 months. Keep the plant in a low light situation out of direct sunlight, but bright enough you could read a book. Gradually move the plant to brighter light if it is in a very dark room. This could spur a peace lily not blooming to flower just by virtue of more candles of light.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Is peace lily toxic to cats? A lovely plant with lush, deep green leaves, peace lily (Spathiphyllum) is prized for its ability to survive nearly any indoor growing condition, including low light and neglect. Unfortunately, peace lily and cats are a bad combination, as peace lily is indeed toxic to cats (and dogs, too). Read on to learn more about peace lily toxicity.
Toxicity of Peace Lily Plants
According to Pet Poison Hotline, the cells of peace lily plants, also known as Mauna Loa plants, contain calcium oxalate crystals. When a cat chews or bites into the leaves or stems, the crystals are released and cause injury by penetrating the animal’s tissues. The damage can be extremely painful to the animal’s mouth, even if the plant isn’t ingested.
Fortunately, peace lily toxicity isn’t as great as that of other types of lilies, including Easter lily and Asiatic lilies. The Pet Poison Hotline says that peace lily, which isn’t a true lily, doesn’t cause damage to the kidneys and liver.
Toxicity of peace lily plants is considered mild to moderate, depending on the amount ingested. The ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) lists signs of peace lily poisoning in cats as follows: Severe burning and irritation of the mouth, lips and tongue Difficulty swallowing Vomiting Excessive drooling and increased salivation To be safe, think twice before keeping or growing peace lilies if you share your home with a cat or dog.
Treating Peace Lily Poisoning in Cats
If you suspect your pet may have ingested peace lily, don’t panic, as your cat is unlikely to suffer long-term harm. Remove any chewed leaves from your cat’s mouth, and then wash the animal’s paws with cool water to remove any irritants. Never try to induce vomiting unless advised by your veterinarian, as you may unintentionally make matters worse.
Toxicity of Peace Lily Plants
According to Pet Poison Hotline, the cells of peace lily plants, also known as Mauna Loa plants, contain calcium oxalate crystals. When a cat chews or bites into the leaves or stems, the crystals are released and cause injury by penetrating the animal’s tissues. The damage can be extremely painful to the animal’s mouth, even if the plant isn’t ingested.
Fortunately, peace lily toxicity isn’t as great as that of other types of lilies, including Easter lily and Asiatic lilies. The Pet Poison Hotline says that peace lily, which isn’t a true lily, doesn’t cause damage to the kidneys and liver.
Toxicity of peace lily plants is considered mild to moderate, depending on the amount ingested. The ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) lists signs of peace lily poisoning in cats as follows: Severe burning and irritation of the mouth, lips and tongue Difficulty swallowing Vomiting Excessive drooling and increased salivation To be safe, think twice before keeping or growing peace lilies if you share your home with a cat or dog.
Treating Peace Lily Poisoning in Cats
If you suspect your pet may have ingested peace lily, don’t panic, as your cat is unlikely to suffer long-term harm. Remove any chewed leaves from your cat’s mouth, and then wash the animal’s paws with cool water to remove any irritants. Never try to induce vomiting unless advised by your veterinarian, as you may unintentionally make matters worse.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Growing peace lily in an aquarium is an unusual, exotic way to display this deep green, leafy plant. Although you can grow peace lily aquarium plants without fish, many people like to add a betta fish to the aquarium, which makes the underwater environment even more colorful. Read on to learn how to grow peace lilies in fish tanks and aquariums.
Growing Peace Lily in an Aquarium or Container
Select a wide-based aquarium that holds at least a quart of water. Clear glass is best, especially if you plan to add a betta fish. Pet stores sell inexpensive goldfish bowls that work very well. Rinse the container thoroughly, but don’t use soap.
Select a small to medium-size peace lily with a healthy root system. Be sure the diameter of the peace lily is smaller than the opening of the container. If the opening of the aquarium is too crowded, the plant may not receive enough air. You’ll also need a plastic plant tray; craft knife or scissors; decorative rock, pebbles or aquarium gravel; a jug of distilled water; large bucket and a betta fish, if you choose. You may also want to add figurines or other decorative accessories.
How to Grow Peace Lilies in Fish Tanks or Aquariums
The first step is to create a lid from the plastic plant tray, as this will serve as a support for the peace lily. Use a sharp craft knife or scissors to trim the plant tray (or similar object) so that it fits snugly into the opening without falling through. Cut a hole in the center of the plastic. The hole should be about the size of a quarter, but probably no larger than a silver dollar, depending on the size of the root mass. Rinse the decorative rocks or gravel thoroughly (again, no soap) and arrange them in the bottom of the aquarium or fish tank. Pour room temperature distilled water into the aquarium, up to about 2 inches from the rim. (You can also use tap water, but be sure to add a water de-chlorinator, which you can purchase at pet stores.) Remove the soil from the roots of the peace lily. Although you can do this in the sink, the easiest method is to fill a large bucket with water, then swish the roots of the lily gently through the water until ALL of the soil is removed. Once the soil has been removed, trim the roots neatly and evenly so they don’t touch the bottom of the aquarium. Feed the roots through the plastic “lid” with the peace lily plant resting on the top and the roots below. (This is where you will add a betta fish, if you choose to do so.) Insert the lid into the fish bowl or aquarium, with the roots dangling into the water.
Care of Peace Lily in Aquariums
Place the aquarium where the peace lily is exposed to low light, such as under a fluorescent light or near a north- or east-facing window. Change one-quarter of the water every week to keep it clear and clean, especially if you decide to add a fish. Avoid flake food, which will cloud the water very quickly. Remove the fish, clean the tank and fill it with fresh water whenever it begins to look brackish – usually every couple of weeks.
Growing Peace Lily in an Aquarium or Container
Select a wide-based aquarium that holds at least a quart of water. Clear glass is best, especially if you plan to add a betta fish. Pet stores sell inexpensive goldfish bowls that work very well. Rinse the container thoroughly, but don’t use soap.
Select a small to medium-size peace lily with a healthy root system. Be sure the diameter of the peace lily is smaller than the opening of the container. If the opening of the aquarium is too crowded, the plant may not receive enough air. You’ll also need a plastic plant tray; craft knife or scissors; decorative rock, pebbles or aquarium gravel; a jug of distilled water; large bucket and a betta fish, if you choose. You may also want to add figurines or other decorative accessories.
How to Grow Peace Lilies in Fish Tanks or Aquariums
The first step is to create a lid from the plastic plant tray, as this will serve as a support for the peace lily. Use a sharp craft knife or scissors to trim the plant tray (or similar object) so that it fits snugly into the opening without falling through. Cut a hole in the center of the plastic. The hole should be about the size of a quarter, but probably no larger than a silver dollar, depending on the size of the root mass. Rinse the decorative rocks or gravel thoroughly (again, no soap) and arrange them in the bottom of the aquarium or fish tank. Pour room temperature distilled water into the aquarium, up to about 2 inches from the rim. (You can also use tap water, but be sure to add a water de-chlorinator, which you can purchase at pet stores.) Remove the soil from the roots of the peace lily. Although you can do this in the sink, the easiest method is to fill a large bucket with water, then swish the roots of the lily gently through the water until ALL of the soil is removed. Once the soil has been removed, trim the roots neatly and evenly so they don’t touch the bottom of the aquarium. Feed the roots through the plastic “lid” with the peace lily plant resting on the top and the roots below. (This is where you will add a betta fish, if you choose to do so.) Insert the lid into the fish bowl or aquarium, with the roots dangling into the water.
Care of Peace Lily in Aquariums
Place the aquarium where the peace lily is exposed to low light, such as under a fluorescent light or near a north- or east-facing window. Change one-quarter of the water every week to keep it clear and clean, especially if you decide to add a fish. Avoid flake food, which will cloud the water very quickly. Remove the fish, clean the tank and fill it with fresh water whenever it begins to look brackish – usually every couple of weeks.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lilies have green leaves and lovely flowers, which are slender, graceful and the color of porcelain. If you see your peace lily getting brown tips on its leaves, it’s time to review the care you are giving them. Generally, brown tips on peace lily leaves means the owner made mistakes in providing care. Read on for information about what causes a peace lily with brown tips on its leaves.
Reasons for Brown Peace Lily Tips
In a healthy peace lily, the stalks bearing the beautiful lily-like flowers emerge from a mounding mass of glossy green leaves. If you see brown tips on peace lily leaves, review your cultural care immediately. Brown peace lily tips almost always result from improper care. Every species of houseplant has its own requirements for essentials like water, fertilizer, sun and soil. If you get any one aspect wrong, the plant will suffer.
Irrigation problem – The most likely reason for brown tips on peace lily leaves is irrigation, either too much or too little. Generally, experts recommend that you wait until the lily wilts slightly before watering it. When you give the plant too little water, the leaf tips may turn brown. For example, if you wait until the lily is deeply wilted instead of just slightly wilted to provide water, brown peace lily tips are the likely consequence. But the opposite extreme, watering so frequently that the soil is soggy, is equally bad for the plant. Curiously, it causes the same symptom: peace lily with brown tips on its leaves. Humidity – These plants appreciate warm, wet environments. In fact, you should keep the plant on a large saucer filled with pebbles and water to provide the humidity it craves. If you don’t do this, the peace lily may still be okay. But if you place it in the path of a heat vent, it isn’t likely to pass through unscathed. You are likely to see leaf damage in the form of peace lilies getting brown tips.
Fertilizer and/or salt – Excess fertilizer also causes brown leaf tips on peace lilies. Only feed your lily once every few months. Even then, dilute the solution until it is quite weak. Salt in the water can also cause brown tips on peace lily leaves. If you suspect your water has a high salt content, use distilled water to irrigate.
Reasons for Brown Peace Lily Tips
In a healthy peace lily, the stalks bearing the beautiful lily-like flowers emerge from a mounding mass of glossy green leaves. If you see brown tips on peace lily leaves, review your cultural care immediately. Brown peace lily tips almost always result from improper care. Every species of houseplant has its own requirements for essentials like water, fertilizer, sun and soil. If you get any one aspect wrong, the plant will suffer.
Irrigation problem – The most likely reason for brown tips on peace lily leaves is irrigation, either too much or too little. Generally, experts recommend that you wait until the lily wilts slightly before watering it. When you give the plant too little water, the leaf tips may turn brown. For example, if you wait until the lily is deeply wilted instead of just slightly wilted to provide water, brown peace lily tips are the likely consequence. But the opposite extreme, watering so frequently that the soil is soggy, is equally bad for the plant. Curiously, it causes the same symptom: peace lily with brown tips on its leaves. Humidity – These plants appreciate warm, wet environments. In fact, you should keep the plant on a large saucer filled with pebbles and water to provide the humidity it craves. If you don’t do this, the peace lily may still be okay. But if you place it in the path of a heat vent, it isn’t likely to pass through unscathed. You are likely to see leaf damage in the form of peace lilies getting brown tips.
Fertilizer and/or salt – Excess fertilizer also causes brown leaf tips on peace lilies. Only feed your lily once every few months. Even then, dilute the solution until it is quite weak. Salt in the water can also cause brown tips on peace lily leaves. If you suspect your water has a high salt content, use distilled water to irrigate.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
The genus Euphorbia boasts a number of fascinating and beautiful plants, and the Medusa’s Head euphorbia is one of the most unique. Medusa’s Head plants, native to South Africa, grow numerous grayish-green, snake-like branches extending from a central hub that keeps the twisty, leafless branches supplied with moisture and nutrients. In perfect conditions, the plants can measure as much as 3 feet across, and yellowish-green blooms appear around the hub in spring and summer. Want to learn how to grow a Medusa’s Head? Read on.
How to Grow a Medusa’s Head Euphorbia
You may be lucky enough to find Medusa’s Head plants (Euphorbia caput-medusae) at a garden center that specializes in cacti and succulents. If you have a friend with a mature plant, ask if you can have a cutting to propagate your own plant. Let the cut end dry for a few days to develop a callus before planting.
Medusa’s Head euphorbia is suitable for growing outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11. Euphorbia requires at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and tolerates temperatures in the low 90s (33-35 C.). However, afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates, as extreme heat may stress the plant. Well-drained soil is absolutely critical; these plants are likely to rot in soggy soil. This fascinating plant also does well in pots, but requires a well-drained potting mix such as a mixture of pumice, coarse sand and potting soil.
Euphorbia Medusa’s Head Care
Although Medusa’s Head is drought tolerant, the plant benefits from regular moisture during summer and won’t tolerant long periods of drought. In general, one watering every week or so is enough. Again, be sure the soil drains well and never allow the soil to become waterlogged. Medusa’s Head plants in containers shouldn’t be watered during the winter months, although you can water the plant very lightly if it begins to look shriveled. Fertilize the plant monthly during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength. Otherwise, caring for Medusa’s Head isn’t complicated. Watch for mealybugs and spider mites. Be sure the plant isn’t crowded, as good air circulation can prevent powdery mildew. Note: Be careful when working with Medusa’s Head plants. Like all Euphorbia, the plant contains sap that can irritate eyes and skin.
How to Grow a Medusa’s Head Euphorbia
You may be lucky enough to find Medusa’s Head plants (Euphorbia caput-medusae) at a garden center that specializes in cacti and succulents. If you have a friend with a mature plant, ask if you can have a cutting to propagate your own plant. Let the cut end dry for a few days to develop a callus before planting.
Medusa’s Head euphorbia is suitable for growing outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11. Euphorbia requires at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and tolerates temperatures in the low 90s (33-35 C.). However, afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates, as extreme heat may stress the plant. Well-drained soil is absolutely critical; these plants are likely to rot in soggy soil. This fascinating plant also does well in pots, but requires a well-drained potting mix such as a mixture of pumice, coarse sand and potting soil.
Euphorbia Medusa’s Head Care
Although Medusa’s Head is drought tolerant, the plant benefits from regular moisture during summer and won’t tolerant long periods of drought. In general, one watering every week or so is enough. Again, be sure the soil drains well and never allow the soil to become waterlogged. Medusa’s Head plants in containers shouldn’t be watered during the winter months, although you can water the plant very lightly if it begins to look shriveled. Fertilize the plant monthly during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength. Otherwise, caring for Medusa’s Head isn’t complicated. Watch for mealybugs and spider mites. Be sure the plant isn’t crowded, as good air circulation can prevent powdery mildew. Note: Be careful when working with Medusa’s Head plants. Like all Euphorbia, the plant contains sap that can irritate eyes and skin.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Christmas cactus are relatively trouble-free succulent plants, but if your Christmas cactus leaves are red or purple instead of green, or if you notice Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges, your plant is telling you that something isn’t quite right. Read on to learn about possible causes and solutions for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves.
Why Do Christmas Cactus Leaves Turn Purple?
Oftentimes, a purplish tint to your Christmas cactus leaves is normal. That said, if it’s noticeably throughout the leaves, it may signal an issue with your plant. Below are the most common reasons for leaves becoming red or purple on Christmas cacti:
Nutritional issues – If you don’t fertilize your Christmas cactus regularly, the plant may be lacking necessary nutrients. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn with a general purpose fertilizer for indoor plants. Additionally, because Christmas cacti require more magnesium than most plants, it normally helps to provide a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in one gallon of water.
Apply the mixture once every month throughout spring and summer, but don’t use the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Crowded roots – If your Christmas cactus is rootbound, it may not be absorbing nutrients effectively. This is one possible reason for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves. Keep in mind, however, that Christmas cactus thrives with crowded roots, so don’t repot unless your plant has been in the same container for at least two or three years. If you determine that the plant is rootbound, repotting Christmas cactus is best done in spring. Move the plant to a container filled with a well-drained potting mix such as regular potting soil mixed with perlite or sand. The pot should be just one size larger. Location – Christmas cactus requires bright light during fall and winter, but too much direct light during the summer months may be the reason for Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges. Moving the plant to a more appropriate location may prevent sunburn and solve the problem. Be sure the location is away from open doors and drafty windows. Similarly, avoid hot, dry areas such as near a fireplace or heating vent.
Why Do Christmas Cactus Leaves Turn Purple?
Oftentimes, a purplish tint to your Christmas cactus leaves is normal. That said, if it’s noticeably throughout the leaves, it may signal an issue with your plant. Below are the most common reasons for leaves becoming red or purple on Christmas cacti:
Nutritional issues – If you don’t fertilize your Christmas cactus regularly, the plant may be lacking necessary nutrients. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn with a general purpose fertilizer for indoor plants. Additionally, because Christmas cacti require more magnesium than most plants, it normally helps to provide a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in one gallon of water.
Apply the mixture once every month throughout spring and summer, but don’t use the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Crowded roots – If your Christmas cactus is rootbound, it may not be absorbing nutrients effectively. This is one possible reason for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves. Keep in mind, however, that Christmas cactus thrives with crowded roots, so don’t repot unless your plant has been in the same container for at least two or three years. If you determine that the plant is rootbound, repotting Christmas cactus is best done in spring. Move the plant to a container filled with a well-drained potting mix such as regular potting soil mixed with perlite or sand. The pot should be just one size larger. Location – Christmas cactus requires bright light during fall and winter, but too much direct light during the summer months may be the reason for Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges. Moving the plant to a more appropriate location may prevent sunburn and solve the problem. Be sure the location is away from open doors and drafty windows. Similarly, avoid hot, dry areas such as near a fireplace or heating vent.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Vinca, also known as catharanthus or Madagascar periwinkle, is a popular annual flower. Growing upwards to 10 to 16 inches tall, with dark green leaves and five-petal blossoms in pink, mauve or white, these flowers spread quickly and require little care. While vincas have few problems, occasionally they will suddenly wilt and die.
Symptoms and Causes
According to the Alabama Agricultural Experiment Station and Clemson University Extension, there are several diseases and fungus that can cause vincas to wilt, including phytophthora stem blight and root rot, pythium root rot, rhizoctonia stem and root rot, gray mold and the tomato spotted wilt virus. Symptoms of these diseases and fungus include dark colored lesions on the stems and branches, yellowing leaves with stunted growth, spots on the foliage, gray mold on the plant or black concentric rings on the leaves.
Many of these diseases and fungus are prevalent in soil that has poor drainage or gardens that have been watered incorrectly.
Prevention and Treatment
Select healthy vinca to plant in the garden. Enrich the garden's soil with well-rotted manure or compost before planting to help increase the soil's moisture-retention. Do not plant the vinca deeply and space 8 to 12 inches apart to allow for air circulation. Vincas need about 1 inch of water each week; if rainfall is insufficient, avoid overhead irrigation systems and water deeply in the early morning to allow the plants time to dry before nightfall.
Remove and destroy any affected plants. Treat the remaining plants with a fungicide; contact your local extension office to determine which fungicide is needed.
Symptoms and Causes
According to the Alabama Agricultural Experiment Station and Clemson University Extension, there are several diseases and fungus that can cause vincas to wilt, including phytophthora stem blight and root rot, pythium root rot, rhizoctonia stem and root rot, gray mold and the tomato spotted wilt virus. Symptoms of these diseases and fungus include dark colored lesions on the stems and branches, yellowing leaves with stunted growth, spots on the foliage, gray mold on the plant or black concentric rings on the leaves.
Many of these diseases and fungus are prevalent in soil that has poor drainage or gardens that have been watered incorrectly.
Prevention and Treatment
Select healthy vinca to plant in the garden. Enrich the garden's soil with well-rotted manure or compost before planting to help increase the soil's moisture-retention. Do not plant the vinca deeply and space 8 to 12 inches apart to allow for air circulation. Vincas need about 1 inch of water each week; if rainfall is insufficient, avoid overhead irrigation systems and water deeply in the early morning to allow the plants time to dry before nightfall.
Remove and destroy any affected plants. Treat the remaining plants with a fungicide; contact your local extension office to determine which fungicide is needed.
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