文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
Bees, butterflies and those people who look closely at wildflowers are attracted to these spectacular wildflowers, but for different reasons.
Identification
A perennial with finely bristly erect grey-green stems, Greater Knapweed grows up to 1.2m in height and its upper part branches freely. Knapweeds are readily distinguished from thistles by the absence of spines and prickles.
Greater Knapweed leaves are alternate, stalked, dark green and slightly leathery; mostly they are pinnately lobed (but irregularly divided) with a few narrow leaflets.
Flower heads, 3 to 5cm across, are borne singly or occasionally a few in an open cyme. Unlike Common Knapweed, which only occasionally has rayed flowers, the violet flowers of Greater Knapweed are nearly always rayed. Within each floret there are five stamens and a pistil of two fused carpels.
The flower head is backed by an almost spherical involucre comprising overlapping bracts that are green at the base and blackish brown at the fringed tips. (The bases of the bracts of Common Knapweed are brown rather than green, and this is a key distinguishing feature which can easily be observed in the field - very helpful when the flowers are in rayed form.)
Distribution
Very common throughout Most of Britain and Ireland except for the far north of Scotland, where it is an occasional find, Greater Knapweed is a European native species that has been introduced to many other parts of the world including North America, where it has become naturalised but generally sparsely distributed across the central region and in parts of Canada..
Habitat
Greater Knapweed if found in dry grassland, in hedgerows, on chalk downland, and and on cliff tops on lime-rich soil.
Blooming Times
In Britain and Ireland Greater Knapweed flowers first appear in July (slightly later than those of Common Knapweed) and continue into September.
Uses
The leaves of this plant were used to treat scabies, a contagious and painful skin infection caused by mites that burrow into the skin - see Etymology, below. (We strongly advise against eating or using as medicines any plants without first obtaining professional advice.)
Insects, including bees and butterflies (notably the Marbled White Melanargea galathea, as seen in the picture above) , are very fond of these long-flowering plants. Burnet Moths, Zygaena species, are often seen in great numbers on Greater Knapweed Centaurea scabiosa and other members of the Centaurea genus.
Identification
A perennial with finely bristly erect grey-green stems, Greater Knapweed grows up to 1.2m in height and its upper part branches freely. Knapweeds are readily distinguished from thistles by the absence of spines and prickles.
Greater Knapweed leaves are alternate, stalked, dark green and slightly leathery; mostly they are pinnately lobed (but irregularly divided) with a few narrow leaflets.
Flower heads, 3 to 5cm across, are borne singly or occasionally a few in an open cyme. Unlike Common Knapweed, which only occasionally has rayed flowers, the violet flowers of Greater Knapweed are nearly always rayed. Within each floret there are five stamens and a pistil of two fused carpels.
The flower head is backed by an almost spherical involucre comprising overlapping bracts that are green at the base and blackish brown at the fringed tips. (The bases of the bracts of Common Knapweed are brown rather than green, and this is a key distinguishing feature which can easily be observed in the field - very helpful when the flowers are in rayed form.)
Distribution
Very common throughout Most of Britain and Ireland except for the far north of Scotland, where it is an occasional find, Greater Knapweed is a European native species that has been introduced to many other parts of the world including North America, where it has become naturalised but generally sparsely distributed across the central region and in parts of Canada..
Habitat
Greater Knapweed if found in dry grassland, in hedgerows, on chalk downland, and and on cliff tops on lime-rich soil.
Blooming Times
In Britain and Ireland Greater Knapweed flowers first appear in July (slightly later than those of Common Knapweed) and continue into September.
Uses
The leaves of this plant were used to treat scabies, a contagious and painful skin infection caused by mites that burrow into the skin - see Etymology, below. (We strongly advise against eating or using as medicines any plants without first obtaining professional advice.)
Insects, including bees and butterflies (notably the Marbled White Melanargea galathea, as seen in the picture above) , are very fond of these long-flowering plants. Burnet Moths, Zygaena species, are often seen in great numbers on Greater Knapweed Centaurea scabiosa and other members of the Centaurea genus.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
This annual wild flower, a close relative of the knapweeds, grows up to 0.8m in height with tough, greyish-green loosely branching stems and lanceolate leaves up to 4cm long. What makes the Cornflower such a memorable sight is the intense blue of its flowers, which like other members of the Daisy family comprise a cluster of central disc florets (these are more of a violet blue) surrounded by an unusually small number (typically 12) of ray florets. The ray florets are pure blue and widely spaced, with a trumpet-like appearance.
Distribution
Cornflowers were once very common on wasteland and on arable farmland in Britain and Ireland. The use of agricultural herbicides has virtually eradicated this beautiful wildflower from the British landscape, and it is now only seen if seed has been deliberately spread.
In some parts of southern Europe where intensive farming regimes have not yet been adopted it is still common to see cornfields flushed with bright blue and scarlet due to the presence of Cornflowers and Common Poppies. These wildflowers may be no good for cattle fodder, but they are excellent food for the human spirit!
Centaurea cyanus is also found in many parts of North America, where it is a naturalised introduced species and, as in Europe, a very popular choice for growing from seed in parks and gardens.
Habitat and Blooming Times
In Britain and Ireland Cornflowers grow wild in just a few cornfields where the land is not subjected to heavy doses of 'weedkiller' and artificial fertilliser; there are also odd patches of 'wasteland' where cornflowers still grow wild. For the most part, however, where you see Cornflowers in a wildflower meadow in Britain or Ireland they will have been grown from 'wildflower seed mixtures'. Rarely do such meadows maintain their brilliance for more than a year or two before they need topping up with more intriducerd seeds; even so, a planted Cornflower meadow is a wonderful sight. (The meadown on the left, in Hampshire, England, is a fine example of what can be achieved.)
Cornflowers bloom from late June until the first frosts of autumn, and in southern Britain, where the last few truly self-sustaining populations are, they are usually at their best in July.
Similar Species
A close relative, Centaurea montana, is a creeping perennial that is often grown in parks and gardens.
Distribution
Cornflowers were once very common on wasteland and on arable farmland in Britain and Ireland. The use of agricultural herbicides has virtually eradicated this beautiful wildflower from the British landscape, and it is now only seen if seed has been deliberately spread.
In some parts of southern Europe where intensive farming regimes have not yet been adopted it is still common to see cornfields flushed with bright blue and scarlet due to the presence of Cornflowers and Common Poppies. These wildflowers may be no good for cattle fodder, but they are excellent food for the human spirit!
Centaurea cyanus is also found in many parts of North America, where it is a naturalised introduced species and, as in Europe, a very popular choice for growing from seed in parks and gardens.
Habitat and Blooming Times
In Britain and Ireland Cornflowers grow wild in just a few cornfields where the land is not subjected to heavy doses of 'weedkiller' and artificial fertilliser; there are also odd patches of 'wasteland' where cornflowers still grow wild. For the most part, however, where you see Cornflowers in a wildflower meadow in Britain or Ireland they will have been grown from 'wildflower seed mixtures'. Rarely do such meadows maintain their brilliance for more than a year or two before they need topping up with more intriducerd seeds; even so, a planted Cornflower meadow is a wonderful sight. (The meadown on the left, in Hampshire, England, is a fine example of what can be achieved.)
Cornflowers bloom from late June until the first frosts of autumn, and in southern Britain, where the last few truly self-sustaining populations are, they are usually at their best in July.
Similar Species
A close relative, Centaurea montana, is a creeping perennial that is often grown in parks and gardens.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
This lovely sunflower forms largeattractive clumps up to a metre in height. The easiest way to distinguish Arrowleaf Balsamroot from other sunflowers is by the silvery-green arrow-head-shaped leaves.
Distribution
The range of the plant extends from British Columbia and south to Colorado and central California. It is one of many sunflowers found in the Rocky Mountains.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Arrowleaf Balsamroot grows on well-drained soil in open woodland sites exposed to plenty of sunshine. It blooms from late May to July and grows
Uses
American Indians used the seeds to make a kind of flour called pinole.
Etymology
Balsamorhiza, the genus name, means 'balsam root'. The specific epithet sagittata means 'arrow shaped' - a reference to the leaves of this plant, which are shaped like arrowheads.
Distribution
The range of the plant extends from British Columbia and south to Colorado and central California. It is one of many sunflowers found in the Rocky Mountains.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Arrowleaf Balsamroot grows on well-drained soil in open woodland sites exposed to plenty of sunshine. It blooms from late May to July and grows
Uses
American Indians used the seeds to make a kind of flour called pinole.
Etymology
Balsamorhiza, the genus name, means 'balsam root'. The specific epithet sagittata means 'arrow shaped' - a reference to the leaves of this plant, which are shaped like arrowheads.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
This low-growing sea daisy forms dense patches of colour along cliff tops and beside coastal paths.
Identification
The lush-looking dark green leaves are grey-green and leathery, and they seem at odds with the arid conditions in which the plant flourishes. Its yellow flowers are typically 2 to 4cm across and have long petals with double nitched (three-lobed) tips.
Distribution
This is a mediterranean species whose range extends from the Canaries, Greece to coastal regions of southern Spain and Portugal and southwards into some parts of northern Africa.
Blooming times
Yellow Sea Daisy flowers from March until May in the Algarve.
Identification
The lush-looking dark green leaves are grey-green and leathery, and they seem at odds with the arid conditions in which the plant flourishes. Its yellow flowers are typically 2 to 4cm across and have long petals with double nitched (three-lobed) tips.
Distribution
This is a mediterranean species whose range extends from the Canaries, Greece to coastal regions of southern Spain and Portugal and southwards into some parts of northern Africa.
Blooming times
Yellow Sea Daisy flowers from March until May in the Algarve.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
This strange spring flower first becomes apparent in January, when its narrow green spikes emerge from the ground. Inside each spike is an unusual flower stem, bearing a purple flower. In fact this is a compound flower, with the male part positioned above the female.
Identification
The distinctive purple-spotted leaves and purple-tinged hood of Arum maculatum appear early in the year, often in March or April.
The hood eventually opens to reveal a complex purplish spadix that looks rather like a fireworks sparkler, comprising a long club above a narrower stem. The female flowers develop at the bottom of the spadix, with an annulus of male flowers positioned immediately above them.
By mid summer the female flower has produced a cluster of green berries that ripen and turn orange-red as the leaves and the hood decay. Stems laden with berries persist through the autumn and into winter, and by the end of the year fallen berry-laden stems are all there is to mark the site where, in a month or two, the new leaves and then flowers will emerge.
Distribution
Common throughout Britain and Ireland, this unusual wildflower is found throughout most of mainland Europe and in parts of western Asia.
Habitat
Arum maculatum is a frequent sight beside tree-lined riversidepaths and shady lanes as well as on woodland edges, in scrub land and almost anywhere that is shaded and damp with nutrient-rich soil.
Blooming Times
The flowers of Lords and Ladies open in April and May, and then the hood decays leaving a stem on which berries develop and ripen in the autumn.
Uses
Roasted roots of Arum maculatum were used to produce a kind of drink; however, without proper preparation the resulting beverage can be toxic. There is also a danger that young children might be tempted to eat the brightly coloured berries (although they are very bitter tasting), with serious consequences because this is such a poisonous plant.
Identification
The distinctive purple-spotted leaves and purple-tinged hood of Arum maculatum appear early in the year, often in March or April.
The hood eventually opens to reveal a complex purplish spadix that looks rather like a fireworks sparkler, comprising a long club above a narrower stem. The female flowers develop at the bottom of the spadix, with an annulus of male flowers positioned immediately above them.
By mid summer the female flower has produced a cluster of green berries that ripen and turn orange-red as the leaves and the hood decay. Stems laden with berries persist through the autumn and into winter, and by the end of the year fallen berry-laden stems are all there is to mark the site where, in a month or two, the new leaves and then flowers will emerge.
Distribution
Common throughout Britain and Ireland, this unusual wildflower is found throughout most of mainland Europe and in parts of western Asia.
Habitat
Arum maculatum is a frequent sight beside tree-lined riversidepaths and shady lanes as well as on woodland edges, in scrub land and almost anywhere that is shaded and damp with nutrient-rich soil.
Blooming Times
The flowers of Lords and Ladies open in April and May, and then the hood decays leaving a stem on which berries develop and ripen in the autumn.
Uses
Roasted roots of Arum maculatum were used to produce a kind of drink; however, without proper preparation the resulting beverage can be toxic. There is also a danger that young children might be tempted to eat the brightly coloured berries (although they are very bitter tasting), with serious consequences because this is such a poisonous plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Many cacti can be successful houseplants. All are succulent plants, and they have two basic kinds of growth. Forest cacti are epiphytes that grow in trees and have flattened, green, leafy-looking stems with few or no spines. Desert cacti, those of dry, hot climates, have thick stems and usually many spines. They can be globular, cylindrical, columnar or have paddle-shaped stems. An indoor forest cactus requires care different from the care an indoor desert cactus needs.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
How to Keep a Cactus Alive. If you seem to lack a green thumb, you are not alone. We've all killed a cactus or three at some point. Common cactus ailments include rot, fungus, dull complexion, wilting, and a stunted growth due to poor light, poor soil, neglect, or too much water. If your cactus is about to kick the bucket, here's how to bring it back to life without too much effort on your part.
Step 1
Determine what kind of cactus you have. Go online or find a book on common cacti and compare pictures and descriptions to figure out which cactus you are dealing with before you begin the rescue mission.
Step 2
Learn the basics. There is a plethora of pertinent information on cacti growing, but unless you want to make cactus gardening a major hobby, focus on the basics. This means learning what kind of cactus you have, which soil it prefers, and how to pot, repot, and prune your cactus.
Step 3
Check the soil. Most cactus plants need sandy soil and lots of direct sunlight to thrive. Buy a special cactus mix of potting soil, or create your own layering gravel, sand, and all-purpose potting soil.
Step 4
Relocate the dying cactus to a warm, sunny location away from drafts or heat sources. If it still does a perk up, it's time for a transplant.
Step 5
Repot your cactus into a larger, terra cotta pot that is fairly shallow and wide with excellent drainage. As you transplant the cactus, prune any dead or wilting roots with sharp scissors but be careful not to trim too much at once or you'll make the cactus more vulnerable to root rot and fungus.
Step 6
Gently wipe the dust off the cactus with a damp paper towel. If it's too spiny for this, fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a dab of dishwashing liquid and swish the cactus gently to get rid of an accumulated dirt or dust. Let the cactus recover on a paper towel and repot in a few days, and the cactus should bounce back within a week or two.
Step 1
Determine what kind of cactus you have. Go online or find a book on common cacti and compare pictures and descriptions to figure out which cactus you are dealing with before you begin the rescue mission.
Step 2
Learn the basics. There is a plethora of pertinent information on cacti growing, but unless you want to make cactus gardening a major hobby, focus on the basics. This means learning what kind of cactus you have, which soil it prefers, and how to pot, repot, and prune your cactus.
Step 3
Check the soil. Most cactus plants need sandy soil and lots of direct sunlight to thrive. Buy a special cactus mix of potting soil, or create your own layering gravel, sand, and all-purpose potting soil.
Step 4
Relocate the dying cactus to a warm, sunny location away from drafts or heat sources. If it still does a perk up, it's time for a transplant.
Step 5
Repot your cactus into a larger, terra cotta pot that is fairly shallow and wide with excellent drainage. As you transplant the cactus, prune any dead or wilting roots with sharp scissors but be careful not to trim too much at once or you'll make the cactus more vulnerable to root rot and fungus.
Step 6
Gently wipe the dust off the cactus with a damp paper towel. If it's too spiny for this, fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a dab of dishwashing liquid and swish the cactus gently to get rid of an accumulated dirt or dust. Let the cactus recover on a paper towel and repot in a few days, and the cactus should bounce back within a week or two.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Flaunting 1-foot night-blooming flowers, dragon fruit plants (Hylocereus and Selenicereus spp.) more closely resemble the princess in a fairy tale than the monster. The "dragon" in their name actually refers to the dark pink, yellow, or green scales which protect their fruits. With white, pink, red or magenta pulp dotted with black seeds, those fruits ripen one to two months after the plants bloom. Climbing cacti with aerial roots, dragon fruits can live outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 12 and be cultivated as houseplants elsewhere.
Cut and Dried
Dragon fruit plants are usually started from cuttings rather than seeds, since cuttings flower more quickly. Select three or four sections of stem that are 6 to 15 inches long. When severing the sections from the mother plant, cut at a slight slant. Allow the cuttings to lie, uncovered, in a cool, dark place for a week until their cut edges have hardened. Then insert the bases of the cuttings about 2 inches deep into a 1-gallon pot filled with slightly damp cactus soil, packing the soil tightly around them until they stand upright. Keep the pot in a bright spot out of direct sun, misting the cuttings every other day, until new growth indicates that they have rooted. Then move the cuttings into partial sun, shifting them gradually into full sun about four months after their rooting.
Stakeout
Wait until the cuttings are at least four months old before planting them outdoors. Choose a site in full sun near a sturdy support. Commercial growers frequently use posts that are 4 to 6 inches in diameter and about 5 feet high after they have been set in the ground. Plant three or four rooted cuttings around the stake, replacing about one-third of the soil with composted manure and another third with sand. Tie the cuttings to the stake with garden twine, water them well and mulch them with several inches of chopped bark, keeping the mulch at least 8 inches away from their stems. Continue to water the plant as necessary, making sure it gets at least 1/2 to 1 inch of water per week. Rake the mulch back to strew about 4 pounds of composted manure and 1/4 pound of 6-6-6 granular organic fertilizer around the stake in June. Repeat the 1/4-pound fertilizer application once every two months until October.
Go to Pot
To grow a dragon fruit plant indoors, fill a 16- to 18-inch-diameter pot with cactus potting soil, and embed a heavy stake in its center. After planting three or four rooted cuttings around that stake, tie them to it and and water them thoroughly. Place the pot near a sunny window and water it again only when the surface of its soil feels dry to the touch. Fertilize an indoor plant monthly with 10-10-5 liquid plant food in April and May, mixing 1 tablespoon of the plant food per gallon of water. Afterwards, feed it monthly with 0-10-10 liquid plant food from June until October, using the same amount. Don't fertilize the plant at all from November through March.
Train Your Dragon
As the cuttings grow, either indoors or outdoors, prune off all their side-shoots until their stems reach the top of the stake. Then snip off the tips of those stems so that they will branch out, with those branches dangling down from the stake's crown like a head of hair. After a mature plant has finished flowering in the fall, prune out weak or dead growth and the branches that bloomed that year, allowing new ones to dangle down to replace them.
Cut and Dried
Dragon fruit plants are usually started from cuttings rather than seeds, since cuttings flower more quickly. Select three or four sections of stem that are 6 to 15 inches long. When severing the sections from the mother plant, cut at a slight slant. Allow the cuttings to lie, uncovered, in a cool, dark place for a week until their cut edges have hardened. Then insert the bases of the cuttings about 2 inches deep into a 1-gallon pot filled with slightly damp cactus soil, packing the soil tightly around them until they stand upright. Keep the pot in a bright spot out of direct sun, misting the cuttings every other day, until new growth indicates that they have rooted. Then move the cuttings into partial sun, shifting them gradually into full sun about four months after their rooting.
Stakeout
Wait until the cuttings are at least four months old before planting them outdoors. Choose a site in full sun near a sturdy support. Commercial growers frequently use posts that are 4 to 6 inches in diameter and about 5 feet high after they have been set in the ground. Plant three or four rooted cuttings around the stake, replacing about one-third of the soil with composted manure and another third with sand. Tie the cuttings to the stake with garden twine, water them well and mulch them with several inches of chopped bark, keeping the mulch at least 8 inches away from their stems. Continue to water the plant as necessary, making sure it gets at least 1/2 to 1 inch of water per week. Rake the mulch back to strew about 4 pounds of composted manure and 1/4 pound of 6-6-6 granular organic fertilizer around the stake in June. Repeat the 1/4-pound fertilizer application once every two months until October.
Go to Pot
To grow a dragon fruit plant indoors, fill a 16- to 18-inch-diameter pot with cactus potting soil, and embed a heavy stake in its center. After planting three or four rooted cuttings around that stake, tie them to it and and water them thoroughly. Place the pot near a sunny window and water it again only when the surface of its soil feels dry to the touch. Fertilize an indoor plant monthly with 10-10-5 liquid plant food in April and May, mixing 1 tablespoon of the plant food per gallon of water. Afterwards, feed it monthly with 0-10-10 liquid plant food from June until October, using the same amount. Don't fertilize the plant at all from November through March.
Train Your Dragon
As the cuttings grow, either indoors or outdoors, prune off all their side-shoots until their stems reach the top of the stake. Then snip off the tips of those stems so that they will branch out, with those branches dangling down from the stake's crown like a head of hair. After a mature plant has finished flowering in the fall, prune out weak or dead growth and the branches that bloomed that year, allowing new ones to dangle down to replace them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
With large paddle-shaped fleshy green leaves edged in red, flapjack kalanchoe (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora), more commonly called simply flapjack, it makes a visual splash in the garden. It grows between 10 inches and 2 feet tall in a rosette pattern with the leaves growing out of the center stalk. Flapjack grows outdoors in U. S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 or as a houseplant. You can also treat it as an annual in cooler climates. A low-maintenance perennial succulent, flapjack needs minimal care to thrive.
Fertilize Sparingly
Fertilize flapjack two to four times per year with the first application in the spring when new growth starts. Apply the last fertilizer in the fall then stop through the winter. Use a slow-release, balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 product, to supply continuous nutrients between feedings. Use 1 tablespoon for each 1 square foot of area around each plant. For larger beds, use 1 cup per 30 for each square feet.
Water Lightly
Flapjack is a drought-tolerant succulent. Allow the soil to dry out on top between waterings. When watering, soak the soil 6 inches deep.
Container Growing
Flapjack grows well in pots, either indoors or outside. Indoors, set the bots in a bright room with indirect light, ideally in a spot between 50 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Outside, keep the pots in a sunny area of the patio or porch or set the planters in the garden.
Fertilizing Container Plants
Fertilize a container-grown flapjack every other week with 1/2 teaspoon of balanced 15-15-15 fertilizer. Mix the fertilizer into 1 gallon of water and use it to water the plant.
Watering Container Plant
Water a flapjack in a planter until the soil is thoroughly damp and extra water starts to leak out the drainage holes in the bottom, then wait to water until the top of the soil looks dry.
Overwintering Indoors
In USDA zones 9 and below, grow flapjack in planters outdoors in the summer and overwinter them inside. In fall, before the first freeze, move the pots to a sunny spot that stays between 50 and 60 F. Stop fertilizing for the winter and water only when the soil feels dry. In spring, after the last frost, return the container-grown flapjack outside.
Pests and Problems
Flapjack doesn't attract pests and rarely suffers from diseases and other problems.
Pruning and Trimming
This tidy succulent doesn't require any pruning or trimming during or after the growing season. The only exception is the flower stalk. After the flapjack flowers, cut out the dead flower stalk where it attaches to the main plant. Flapjack is grown as a foliage plant, and flowers only appear after three to four years, so in general you can get by without any pruning.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Golden Sedum (Sedum adolphi) is a low-growing succulent plant with pointed dark green leaves. The leaves develop orange or reddish tips when exposed to bright sunlight. Sedum adophi produces white, star-shaped flowers in spring. It can survive a few hours in temperatures as low is 29 degrees Fahrenheit, but is not considered winter hardy except in frost-free locations, such as United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10 and warmer. Sedum adolphi is most often grown as a houseplant or an attractive outdoor container plant where it can be protected during the winter.
Step 1
Purchase a well-draining container for planting Sedum adolphi. The container should not be any bigger than 2 inches more in diameter than the root section of the plant. A larger container will contain more potting soil than is needed for the plant to grow. Unused potting soil collects moisture and the organic material in the potting soil will create fungal problems that can spread to the plant.
Step 2
Fill the bottom of the container with 1 inch of fine gravel. The gravel helps the container drain so it does not hold water. A Sedum adophi plant cannot sit in waterlogged soil or the plant will rot.
Step 3
Add potting soil until the container is half full. Carefully take the sedum from the previous container and plant in the new container. Add more potting soil around the Sedum adolphi until it is planted at the same depth it was planted in the previous container and the soil surface is 1 inch below the top of the container. Add water over the soil to settle the potting soil. Add more potting soil as needed. Spread a 1/2-inch layer of gravel over the potting soil. Leave a 1/2-inch space between the gravel and the top of the container so soil and gravel will not wash from the container during watering.
Step 4
Water the Sedum adolphi when the soil in the container is dry. Test the soil for dryness by pushing your finger through the gravel mulch into the top inch of soil. Water heavily until water runs from the bottom of the container.
Step 5
Fertilize once a month with a one-fourth strength solution of water soluble fertilizer appropriate for container plants. Only fertilize during the spring and summer months when the plant is actively growing.
Step 6
Place the container in which the Sedum adolphi is planted in a brightly lit location in the house. Outdoors, place the Sedum adolphi where it is protected from the hottest afternoon sun. Direct sun in the first part of the day followed by shade or dappled sun is best.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Succulent jade plants are popular houseplants because they are easy to care for and rarely suffer from pests or diseases. A healthy jade plant has plump, green leaves with glossy surfaces. If your jade plant has white dots or spots on its leaves, this could be a sign of insect infestation or incorrect growing conditions. Investigate any potential problem straightaway before it has a chance to spread.
Mealy Bugs
Mealy bugs are small, soft-bodied insects up to 1/4 inch long. They are covered with a layer of white dust or filaments that are mobile. Mealy bugs gather on new stems and on the undersides of jade plant roots. Treat mealy bugs by dabbing them with a paintbrush dipped in a 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol. Deal with severe infestations by using a systemic insecticide formulated for houseplants.
Salt
Jade plants naturally develop small crystals of salt on their leaves. The salt is absorbed through the roots and excreted by the leaves. It dries into small, white dots. You can't prevent these but you can remove them with a damp cloth. Flush out the soil of your jade plant with plenty of water if it is covered with a white crust of salt.
Oedema
Jade plants that receive too much water suffer from a condition known as oedema. The first symptom is develop blisters on the leaves. These pop and form small, corky spots that go from yellowish-white to brown. Reduce watering of jade plants showing signs of oedema. The spots that are already present are permanent but no new ones will appear. Oedema is most common on jade plants during the winter.
Other Causes
Water drops drying on jade plant leaves leave white spots on their surfaces, especially in hard-water areas. Wipe them off with a damp cloth. Jade plants exposed to household chemical sprays or hot cooking oil may also develop discolored spots on the leaves. Indoor jade plants kept in a humid room such as a bathroom sometimes develop powdery mildew on their leaves in the winter. Decrease the local humidity levels or increase the airflow around the plant to prevent it from growing again.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The coral cactus (Euphorbia lactea f. cristata), a crested form of mottled spurge (Euphorbia lactea), offers convoluted, fan-shaped green growth marked with silver. Recently, plant sellers have begun to graft coral cactus fans in a variety of colors onto the stems of other succulents or cacti. The resulting plants are called variegated coral cactus (Euphorbia lactea f. cristata variegata). All these euphorbias are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. They also are poisonous and their white sap can inflame the eyes, mucous membranes and skin.
Outdoor Care
If you wish to try the original ungrafted green form of coral cactus outdoors, plant it in a sunny or partly sunny position in well-drained soil and mulch it with gravel. Unless your climate is very dry, it's a good idea to place cacti in a raised bed ringed by rocks and filled with a combination of 1 part garden soil and 1 part sand or decomposed granite.
During spring through autumn, water an outdoor coral cactus about once a week when there is no rain. Don't water it at all during the winter. Since cacti in the ground don't need much fertilizer, feed the plant only once in midsummer.
For a liquid chemical fertilizer such as 10-10-5, combine 1 tablespoon of the solution with 1 gallon of water, or use 4 tablespoons of solution per gallon of water for a liquid organic type such as 3-3-3. Mix the fertilizer in a watering can and pour it into the soil around the cactus.
Indoor Potting
The grafted types of coral cactus often are planted in a pot which has been mulched with glued-down gravel. Although the gravel prevents soil from splashing onto the plant, it also may prevent testing the moisture of the soil. If such is the case, try to remove the gravel without harming the cactus.
Use barbecue tongs and/or a strap made from folded newspaper to lift the plant, to protect your hands from its sap and spines. Replant it in a pot with drainage holes, either in cactus potting soil or in a mix of 1 part general-purpose potting soil and 1 part sand. You can mulch the soil with fine gravel again, but make that loose gravel, so you can feel beneath it.
Indoor Care
Place a coral cactus on a warm windowsill where temperatures remain between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Although the original green, non-grafted type can take full sun, grafted cultivars should receive sunlight only for several hours in the morning or afternoon, but not during the brightest midday hours.
During spring through summer, water the plant once a week or once every two weeks, whenever its soil feels dry 1 inch down. Reduce that watering to once a month during autumn and winter, as cacti can rot during those seasons if kept too wet, and resume the weekly or biweekly watering in early spring.
Fertilize your indoor cactus once every two weeks during spring and summer with a liquid 10-10-10 plant food at one quarter strength. That would be about 3 to 4 drops of the plant food in 1 quart of water. Refrain from feeding the plant during autumn and winter.
Cactus Pests
If pests such as furry white mealy-bugs or bumpy brown scale appear on your cactus, clean them off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Don't use insecticidal soap, which can be damaging to euphorbias.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
You can tell a lot about your plant’s health from its leaves. When they’re green, shiny and flexible, all systems are go; that plant is happy and care-free. But when plants develop brown leaves in the middle of their canopy or leaf browning in center of leaves, problems are afoot. Most of the time, these symptoms can be traced back to improper growing conditions, but they may also be caused by fungi and viruses.
Causes for Plants Going Brown in Center Crown and Root Rot The center rotting out of a plant is almost always related to crown or root rot. Most plants can’t tolerate a soggy environment, especially those with crowns densely covered with leaves, like African violets. When you keep the soil wet all the time, fungal pathogens take advantage of the humidity that develops under the leaves of these low-growing plants, reproducing rapidly. Both root and crown rot can appear similar in these short plants, with the plants going brown in the center as the disease progresses. If you’re asking yourself, “What is causing brown leaves in center of my plant,” you need to check the soil moisture first. Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between waterings and never leave plants soaking in water-filled saucers. Plants with root rot may be saved if you catch it in an early stage. Dig your plant, trim out any brown, black or soggy roots and replant into a well-draining medium — chemicals won’t help, the only thing that will fix root rot is a drier environment.
Diseases That Cause Brown Leaves Other reasons why leaves turn brown in middle include fungal diseases like anthracnose and host-specific rusts. They often start along the mid-vein of leaves, either near the center or toward the stem end. Fungal diseases are aggravated or initiated by humid conditions. Rusts can be treated early in the disease process, but good sanitation is vital to prevent it from spreading further. When tiny, rust-colored spots appear in the middle of your plant’s leaves, try neem oil before breaking out stronger chemicals like thiophanate methyl, myclobutanil or chlorothalonil. Remove any plants that resist treatment and keep all plant debris cleaned up off of the ground. Anthracnose also begins along the mid-vein in many plants, but is primarily a problem for woody plants, although tomatoes and other crops have been known to contract it. This fungus creates water-soaked lesions on leaves along the mid-vein that soon dry out and brown. Anthracnose is difficult to treat, but crop rotation and sanitation are the keys to preventing reinfection. A number of plant viruses result in vein necrosis, the death of the central leaf vein and those tissues surrounding it, causing browning. Other common symptoms include discolored spots, rings or bullseyes in a range of colors, general unthriftiness and distortion of emerging growth.
A plant affected by a virus cannot be cured, so it’s best to destroy them before other plants are infected as well. Many viruses are vectored by small, sap-sucking insects; be on the lookout for pests in and around sick plants.
Causes for Plants Going Brown in Center Crown and Root Rot The center rotting out of a plant is almost always related to crown or root rot. Most plants can’t tolerate a soggy environment, especially those with crowns densely covered with leaves, like African violets. When you keep the soil wet all the time, fungal pathogens take advantage of the humidity that develops under the leaves of these low-growing plants, reproducing rapidly. Both root and crown rot can appear similar in these short plants, with the plants going brown in the center as the disease progresses. If you’re asking yourself, “What is causing brown leaves in center of my plant,” you need to check the soil moisture first. Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between waterings and never leave plants soaking in water-filled saucers. Plants with root rot may be saved if you catch it in an early stage. Dig your plant, trim out any brown, black or soggy roots and replant into a well-draining medium — chemicals won’t help, the only thing that will fix root rot is a drier environment.
Diseases That Cause Brown Leaves Other reasons why leaves turn brown in middle include fungal diseases like anthracnose and host-specific rusts. They often start along the mid-vein of leaves, either near the center or toward the stem end. Fungal diseases are aggravated or initiated by humid conditions. Rusts can be treated early in the disease process, but good sanitation is vital to prevent it from spreading further. When tiny, rust-colored spots appear in the middle of your plant’s leaves, try neem oil before breaking out stronger chemicals like thiophanate methyl, myclobutanil or chlorothalonil. Remove any plants that resist treatment and keep all plant debris cleaned up off of the ground. Anthracnose also begins along the mid-vein in many plants, but is primarily a problem for woody plants, although tomatoes and other crops have been known to contract it. This fungus creates water-soaked lesions on leaves along the mid-vein that soon dry out and brown. Anthracnose is difficult to treat, but crop rotation and sanitation are the keys to preventing reinfection. A number of plant viruses result in vein necrosis, the death of the central leaf vein and those tissues surrounding it, causing browning. Other common symptoms include discolored spots, rings or bullseyes in a range of colors, general unthriftiness and distortion of emerging growth.
A plant affected by a virus cannot be cured, so it’s best to destroy them before other plants are infected as well. Many viruses are vectored by small, sap-sucking insects; be on the lookout for pests in and around sick plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miniature pine tree (Crassula tetragona) is a low-growing succulent shrub resembling a small pine tree, boasting a tree-like habit of bluish green, awl-shaped leaves and spring-blooming white flowers. A popular bonsai, miniature pine tree is often grown as a potted garden plant or houseplant, though it may also be grown directly in the garden where hardy. Aesthetically, miniature pine tree fits in well with rock gardens, bonsai plantings and zen-themed gardens.
Location
A native of South Africa, miniature pine tree is a heat-loving frost-sensitive plant, hardy to about 28 degrees Fahrenheit. It may be grown successfully outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, where it will thrive in full sunlight or light shade. Provide indoor plants a winter dormancy period with temperatures around 48 degrees Fahrenheit.
Soil
Like other succulents, miniature pine tree requires very well draining soil. Poorly draining soil, coupled with excessive irrigation, is a surefire recipe for the often fatal fungal disease root rot. A mixture of sand, loam, pea gravel and peat moss with a pH between 6.1 and 7.8 is ideal. Fertilize once during the growing season with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted with water to about half strength.
Maintenance
The low maintenance miniature pine tree requires water only once a month or so during the growing season, watering deeply, then allowing the soil to completely dry out before watering again. In the winter, water sparingly, just enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Miniature pine tree may be propagated by leaf or stem cuttings, rooted in moist, well-draining potting media. The plant may also be divided during the growing season or grown by seed.
Problems
Members of the Crassula genus are prone to mealybugs -- small, cottony insects that form colonies on leaves. If left unchecked, they may stunt plant growth or invite unattractive black sooty mold. The University of California Integrated Pest Management Program recommends removing mealy bugs with a direct stream of water or applying insecticidal soap or narrow-range oil. Avoid excessive use of insecticides in the home garden, which can kill the beneficial insects and parasites that prey on mealybugs.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
What is algal leaf spot and what do you do about it? Read on to learn about symptoms of algal leaf spot and tips on algal leaf spot control. What is Algal Leaf Spot? Algal leaf spot disease, also known as green scurf, is caused by Cephaleuros virescens, a type of parasitic algae. Algal leaf spot disease spores, which are spread by rain, create a big problem for more than 200 plant species, especially plants growing in warm, humid climates. Susceptible plants include those that have leathery leaves such as:Magnolia Camellia Boxwood Crepe myrtle Azalea Bougainvillea Wisteria Rhododendron Viburnum.
Recognizing Symptoms of Algal Leaf Spot Algal leaf spot disease is marked by rough, net-like orange, brown, gray or green blotches on the leaves, each measuring about ½ inch in diameter or less. However, blotches that grow together take on the appearance of larger blotches. Although the disease affects primarily foliage, it sometimes impacts branches and twigs, causing a stunted appearance with reddish-brown or pale green lesions.
Algal Leaf Spot Control Algal leaf spot disease is rarely deadly and the problems are mostly cosmetic. Unless the outbreak is severe, non-chemical strategies for treating algal leaf spot are usually adequate: Keep plants as healthy as possible, as well-managed plants are less susceptible to disease. Maintain proper soil drainage and water, and fertilize as needed. Prune plants to improve air circulation and access to sunlight.
Trim around the plants to reduce the humidity level, including overhanging trees that create too much shade. Rake up and dispose of leaves and debris under and around the affected plant. Discard of infected debris carefully to prevent spread of the disease. Keep in mind that the algae can survive on fallen leaves during the winter months. Water at the base of the plant. Avoid wetting the leaves as much as possible. Apply a Bordeaux mixture or copper-based fungicide if the plant is seriously infected. Repeat every two weeks during cool, damp weather.
Recognizing Symptoms of Algal Leaf Spot Algal leaf spot disease is marked by rough, net-like orange, brown, gray or green blotches on the leaves, each measuring about ½ inch in diameter or less. However, blotches that grow together take on the appearance of larger blotches. Although the disease affects primarily foliage, it sometimes impacts branches and twigs, causing a stunted appearance with reddish-brown or pale green lesions.
Algal Leaf Spot Control Algal leaf spot disease is rarely deadly and the problems are mostly cosmetic. Unless the outbreak is severe, non-chemical strategies for treating algal leaf spot are usually adequate: Keep plants as healthy as possible, as well-managed plants are less susceptible to disease. Maintain proper soil drainage and water, and fertilize as needed. Prune plants to improve air circulation and access to sunlight.
Trim around the plants to reduce the humidity level, including overhanging trees that create too much shade. Rake up and dispose of leaves and debris under and around the affected plant. Discard of infected debris carefully to prevent spread of the disease. Keep in mind that the algae can survive on fallen leaves during the winter months. Water at the base of the plant. Avoid wetting the leaves as much as possible. Apply a Bordeaux mixture or copper-based fungicide if the plant is seriously infected. Repeat every two weeks during cool, damp weather.
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