文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a hardy shrub that belongs to the rose family. This striking plant, also known as plum leaf sand cherry, is valued for its reddish-purple foliage and pale pink blooms. Purple leaf sand cherry care involves regular pruning. Read on for tips on how to prune a purple leaf sand cherry.
When to Prune Plum Leaf Sand Cherries
The best time to prune plum leaf sand cherries is just before new growth emerges in spring. This timing ensures the plant has plenty of time to recover and produce gorgeous blooms for the coming season.
Pruning Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry pruning isn’t complicated. Prune the oldest stems first, removing at least one-third of growth down to within a few inches from the base. Additionally, cut damaged or dead growth at the base of the shrub. The branches will be sturdy, so be sure your cutting tool is sharp. When old and damaged growth has been removed, thin out wayward growth and branches that are rubbing or crossing other branches. If the plant looks a bit straggly, you can remove twigs to keep it tidy throughout the season.
Be sure to make each cut about 1/4-inch above a node or a point where one stem is growing from another. Lastly, snip off any suckers that form at the base of the plant. If the purple leaf sand cherry is badly overgrown or neglected, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting it nearly to the ground in late winter, shortly before the plant emerges from dormancy. Rake the area under the shrub after pruning. If you are pruning to remove diseased growth, dispose of the clippings carefully. Never place diseased debris in the compost pile.
Additional Purple Leaf Sand Cherry Care
Water purple leaf sand cherry regularly during the first growing season. Usually, one watering per week is ample, or whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Thereafter, water only during extended periods of hot, dry weather. One feeding every spring is sufficient for purple leaf sand cherry. Any balanced, general-purpose fertilizer is fine. Otherwise, plum leaf sand cherry is easy to get along with and requires little care. However, the plant is susceptible to a number of plant diseases such as:
Root rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf curl
Fire blight
Honey fungus
A sunny location, well-drained soil and adequate air circulation around plants are the best ways to avoid these moisture-related diseases.
Purple leaf sand cherry is also bothered by several pests, including:
Aphids
Japanese beetles
Leafhoppers
Scale
Caterpillars
Most insects can be controlled by blasting the affected leaves with a strong blast of water, or by spraying the foliage with insecticidal soap. Unfortunately, despite your best attempts, pests and disease may shorten the life span of purple leaf sand cherry.
When to Prune Plum Leaf Sand Cherries
The best time to prune plum leaf sand cherries is just before new growth emerges in spring. This timing ensures the plant has plenty of time to recover and produce gorgeous blooms for the coming season.
Pruning Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry pruning isn’t complicated. Prune the oldest stems first, removing at least one-third of growth down to within a few inches from the base. Additionally, cut damaged or dead growth at the base of the shrub. The branches will be sturdy, so be sure your cutting tool is sharp. When old and damaged growth has been removed, thin out wayward growth and branches that are rubbing or crossing other branches. If the plant looks a bit straggly, you can remove twigs to keep it tidy throughout the season.
Be sure to make each cut about 1/4-inch above a node or a point where one stem is growing from another. Lastly, snip off any suckers that form at the base of the plant. If the purple leaf sand cherry is badly overgrown or neglected, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting it nearly to the ground in late winter, shortly before the plant emerges from dormancy. Rake the area under the shrub after pruning. If you are pruning to remove diseased growth, dispose of the clippings carefully. Never place diseased debris in the compost pile.
Additional Purple Leaf Sand Cherry Care
Water purple leaf sand cherry regularly during the first growing season. Usually, one watering per week is ample, or whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Thereafter, water only during extended periods of hot, dry weather. One feeding every spring is sufficient for purple leaf sand cherry. Any balanced, general-purpose fertilizer is fine. Otherwise, plum leaf sand cherry is easy to get along with and requires little care. However, the plant is susceptible to a number of plant diseases such as:
Root rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf curl
Fire blight
Honey fungus
A sunny location, well-drained soil and adequate air circulation around plants are the best ways to avoid these moisture-related diseases.
Purple leaf sand cherry is also bothered by several pests, including:
Aphids
Japanese beetles
Leafhoppers
Scale
Caterpillars
Most insects can be controlled by blasting the affected leaves with a strong blast of water, or by spraying the foliage with insecticidal soap. Unfortunately, despite your best attempts, pests and disease may shorten the life span of purple leaf sand cherry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Oak leaf gall mites are more of a problem for humans than for oak trees. These insects live inside the galls on oak leaves. If they leave the galls in search of other food, they can be a true nuisance. Their bites are itchy and painful. So exactly what are oak leaf mites? What is effective in treating for oak mites? If you want more information on how to get rid of oak mites, also called oak leaf itch mites, read on.
What are Oak Leaf Mites?
Oak tree gall mites are tiny parasites that attack gall larvae on oak leaves. When we say tiny, we mean tiny! You may not be able to spot one of these mites without a magnifying glass.
The female and male oak tree gall mites mate. Once the females are fertilized, they enter the gall and paralyze the larvae with their venom. The female mites then feed on the larvae until their offspring emerge. An entire generation of oak mites can emerge in a single week, which means that the mite population can swell rapidly. Once the oak tree gall mites have eaten the gall larvae, they leave in search of other food. Even if they don’t run out of food, mites may leave the galls. They may fall from the tree or be blown off by a breeze. This usually happens late in the season when the mite population is very large. Some 300,000 mites can fall from each tree every day.
Oak Mite Control
Oak tree gall mites can enter a house through open windows or screens and bite people inside. More often, however, the mites bite people while working outdoors in the garden. The bites usually occur on the upper body or wherever clothing is loose. They are painful and itch a lot. People who are not aware of oak tree gall mites think they have been bitten by bed bugs. You might think that spraying the oak tree would be an effective oak mite control, but this is not the case. The oak tree gall mites actually live inside the galls. Since tree sprays do not penetrate the galls, the mites are safe from sprays.
If you are wondering how to get rid of oak mites, there is no perfect solution. You can try to exercise oak mite control by using DEET, a commercially available mosquito and tick repellent. But in the end, you can only protect yourself best by being vigilant. Stay away from oak trees with galls toward the end of summer. And when you do go into the garden or near the trees, shower and wash your clothes in hot water when you come in from gardening.
What are Oak Leaf Mites?
Oak tree gall mites are tiny parasites that attack gall larvae on oak leaves. When we say tiny, we mean tiny! You may not be able to spot one of these mites without a magnifying glass.
The female and male oak tree gall mites mate. Once the females are fertilized, they enter the gall and paralyze the larvae with their venom. The female mites then feed on the larvae until their offspring emerge. An entire generation of oak mites can emerge in a single week, which means that the mite population can swell rapidly. Once the oak tree gall mites have eaten the gall larvae, they leave in search of other food. Even if they don’t run out of food, mites may leave the galls. They may fall from the tree or be blown off by a breeze. This usually happens late in the season when the mite population is very large. Some 300,000 mites can fall from each tree every day.
Oak Mite Control
Oak tree gall mites can enter a house through open windows or screens and bite people inside. More often, however, the mites bite people while working outdoors in the garden. The bites usually occur on the upper body or wherever clothing is loose. They are painful and itch a lot. People who are not aware of oak tree gall mites think they have been bitten by bed bugs. You might think that spraying the oak tree would be an effective oak mite control, but this is not the case. The oak tree gall mites actually live inside the galls. Since tree sprays do not penetrate the galls, the mites are safe from sprays.
If you are wondering how to get rid of oak mites, there is no perfect solution. You can try to exercise oak mite control by using DEET, a commercially available mosquito and tick repellent. But in the end, you can only protect yourself best by being vigilant. Stay away from oak trees with galls toward the end of summer. And when you do go into the garden or near the trees, shower and wash your clothes in hot water when you come in from gardening.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Mulberry (Morus spp.) trees are fast-growing, deciduous trees known for their variable leaf shapes, their delicious berries, and the terrible stains those berries can make if they hit the sidewalk rather than someone’s mouth. Some have red fruit while others produce tasty purple or white fruit. A fruitless cultivar exists for those not interested in those yummy, messy berries. Mulberry trees can reach 30’-70’ depending on the species. They are fantastic shade trees. Due to their quick growth, pruning mulberry trees is often necessary.
Mulberry Trimming
Proper mulberry tree pruning techniques depend on your landscape goals. If you want to create a shady spot that provides food and shelter for birds as well as biomass for your compost bin, only cut out small, dead, diseased, crossed-over and oddly oriented branches. In this case, mulberry trimming can be done every two to three years.
If your primary goal is fruit production for human consumption, then mulberry trimming should be done every year to control size and to keep most of the fruit within easy reach. Note that mulberries bloom and fruit on the previous year’s growth, so extensive pruning will reduce fruit production. Pruning mulberry trees that are too large for their space is often executed via a technique called pollarding. With pollarding, all the smaller branches are removed annually to a selected area on larger scaffold branches. I don’t like to recommend pollarding because it is mostly done wrong. When the pollard form of mulberry tree pruning is done incorrectly, it can leave a tree that is unsafe, ugly and prone to disease.
How to Prune a Mulberry Tree
If you are wondering how to prune a mulberry tree, start with sharp, clean tools. Do not struggle while cutting through a branch. If this happens, your tool is too small. Use a hand pruner for cuts under 6” and loppers for cuts 1” to 2”. You can also use a good saw for cuts 1” and larger. Try not to cut branches larger than 2” in diameter. Mulberry trimming should not be done on large branches unless you accept the fact that large wounds don’t heal very quickly and leave open the door for pests and disease and heart rot. Pruning trees in pollard form should be started when the tree is quite young and the scaffold branches have grown to the height you wish for in the canopy. Always cut the smaller branches back to their base on the scaffold. A round callused knob will form over the years. Always cut to the knob but not into it. Do not leave a stub that is more than ½” at the knob. Do some research on pollarding before you cut the tree. If you inherit a large tree that was pollarded in the past but not maintained properly over the years, hire a certified arborist to get it back into shape.
When to Prune Mulberries
Mulberry tree pruning is easiest when the tree is dormant. You can see the structure of the tree without it being obscured by leaves. Don’t prune when the weather is very cold. When the temperature is under 50 F. (10 C.), it is harder for the tree to seal off its wounds. A good time for mulberry trimming is in spring prior to the buds turning green.
Mulberry Trimming
Proper mulberry tree pruning techniques depend on your landscape goals. If you want to create a shady spot that provides food and shelter for birds as well as biomass for your compost bin, only cut out small, dead, diseased, crossed-over and oddly oriented branches. In this case, mulberry trimming can be done every two to three years.
If your primary goal is fruit production for human consumption, then mulberry trimming should be done every year to control size and to keep most of the fruit within easy reach. Note that mulberries bloom and fruit on the previous year’s growth, so extensive pruning will reduce fruit production. Pruning mulberry trees that are too large for their space is often executed via a technique called pollarding. With pollarding, all the smaller branches are removed annually to a selected area on larger scaffold branches. I don’t like to recommend pollarding because it is mostly done wrong. When the pollard form of mulberry tree pruning is done incorrectly, it can leave a tree that is unsafe, ugly and prone to disease.
How to Prune a Mulberry Tree
If you are wondering how to prune a mulberry tree, start with sharp, clean tools. Do not struggle while cutting through a branch. If this happens, your tool is too small. Use a hand pruner for cuts under 6” and loppers for cuts 1” to 2”. You can also use a good saw for cuts 1” and larger. Try not to cut branches larger than 2” in diameter. Mulberry trimming should not be done on large branches unless you accept the fact that large wounds don’t heal very quickly and leave open the door for pests and disease and heart rot. Pruning trees in pollard form should be started when the tree is quite young and the scaffold branches have grown to the height you wish for in the canopy. Always cut the smaller branches back to their base on the scaffold. A round callused knob will form over the years. Always cut to the knob but not into it. Do not leave a stub that is more than ½” at the knob. Do some research on pollarding before you cut the tree. If you inherit a large tree that was pollarded in the past but not maintained properly over the years, hire a certified arborist to get it back into shape.
When to Prune Mulberries
Mulberry tree pruning is easiest when the tree is dormant. You can see the structure of the tree without it being obscured by leaves. Don’t prune when the weather is very cold. When the temperature is under 50 F. (10 C.), it is harder for the tree to seal off its wounds. A good time for mulberry trimming is in spring prior to the buds turning green.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
There are any number of diseases and pests that can stress your dogwood and cause dogwood leaf drop. It is normal to see leaves falling in autumn but you should not see a dogwood tree dropping leaves in summer. When leaves are falling off dogwood in summer, it could mean a serious illness, improper siting or cultivation problems. Let’s examine proper cultivation and conditions for the trees and see what can be done about treating a diseased dogwood.
Why Leaves are Falling Off Dogwood?
Dogwoods are elegant, beautiful ornamental trees with several seasonal displays. Their oval to heart-shaped leaves deepen to crimson and orange in fall. The green leaves add charm and movement during the growing season and set a perfect backdrop for the bright flowerlike bracts. Dogwood leaf drop is not only an unsightly problem but it can spell doom for a plant due to reduced vigor. It is essential to determine the cause and preserve the energy gathering foliage.
Dogwood plants need acidic well-drained soil in full to partial shade. Failure to provide these conditions will encourage disease and pest problems.
Pests That Cause Leaf Drop
Some of the most common pest causes of a dogwood tree dropping leaves are:
Borer insects
Scale
Dogwood sawfly
Insect pests are usually the easiest to diagnose. Borers leave piles of sawdust near the holes they make, scale is visible as little armored bumps along stems and sawfly larvae cause skeletonized leaves with whitish powder coating them. Borers and scale respond to appropriate insecticides while sawfly larvae are large and obvious enough to hand pick and destroy. Treating a diseased dogwood is a bit harder and requires correct diagnosis of the disease.
Treating Dogwood Leaf Diseases
Diseases of dogwood are the usual suspects when leaves are falling prematurely and include:
Powdery mildew
Leaf spot disease
Canker
Anthracnose
One of the most recurring causes of leaf drop is powdery mildew. Many varieties of plants can get this fungal infection, which cause leaves to get a white coating and eventually suffocate and die. If a tree has a lot of powdery mildew, the overall health of the tree is affected due to minimized harvest of solar energy. Fungicides can be effective or you can prune out the infested areas. If the disease is a common problem in your area, it is best to choose a cultivar with powdery mildew resistance.
Leaf spot disease also occurs on twigs and buds. It causes brownish tan spots on foliage, especially on shaded trees after heavy rains in the warm seasons. Prune out affected stems and leaves and destroy the plant material. Crown canker is a serious disease that will eventually girdle the tree, causing not only leaf drop but complete die back. The tree will need to be removed and destroyed.
Anthracnose affects many ornamentals. It is characterized by purple spots on bracts and leaves in spring. Usually no treatment is necessary, but in severe cases, use fungicide at bud break. Follow with the spray every 7 to 14 days until all the leaves have opened.
Why Leaves are Falling Off Dogwood?
Dogwoods are elegant, beautiful ornamental trees with several seasonal displays. Their oval to heart-shaped leaves deepen to crimson and orange in fall. The green leaves add charm and movement during the growing season and set a perfect backdrop for the bright flowerlike bracts. Dogwood leaf drop is not only an unsightly problem but it can spell doom for a plant due to reduced vigor. It is essential to determine the cause and preserve the energy gathering foliage.
Dogwood plants need acidic well-drained soil in full to partial shade. Failure to provide these conditions will encourage disease and pest problems.
Pests That Cause Leaf Drop
Some of the most common pest causes of a dogwood tree dropping leaves are:
Borer insects
Scale
Dogwood sawfly
Insect pests are usually the easiest to diagnose. Borers leave piles of sawdust near the holes they make, scale is visible as little armored bumps along stems and sawfly larvae cause skeletonized leaves with whitish powder coating them. Borers and scale respond to appropriate insecticides while sawfly larvae are large and obvious enough to hand pick and destroy. Treating a diseased dogwood is a bit harder and requires correct diagnosis of the disease.
Treating Dogwood Leaf Diseases
Diseases of dogwood are the usual suspects when leaves are falling prematurely and include:
Powdery mildew
Leaf spot disease
Canker
Anthracnose
One of the most recurring causes of leaf drop is powdery mildew. Many varieties of plants can get this fungal infection, which cause leaves to get a white coating and eventually suffocate and die. If a tree has a lot of powdery mildew, the overall health of the tree is affected due to minimized harvest of solar energy. Fungicides can be effective or you can prune out the infested areas. If the disease is a common problem in your area, it is best to choose a cultivar with powdery mildew resistance.
Leaf spot disease also occurs on twigs and buds. It causes brownish tan spots on foliage, especially on shaded trees after heavy rains in the warm seasons. Prune out affected stems and leaves and destroy the plant material. Crown canker is a serious disease that will eventually girdle the tree, causing not only leaf drop but complete die back. The tree will need to be removed and destroyed.
Anthracnose affects many ornamentals. It is characterized by purple spots on bracts and leaves in spring. Usually no treatment is necessary, but in severe cases, use fungicide at bud break. Follow with the spray every 7 to 14 days until all the leaves have opened.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Crabapples are popular, adaptable trees that add all-season beauty to the garden with minimal maintenance. Picking a crabapple tree is a bit of a challenge, however, because this versatile tree is available in a tremendous range of flower color, leaf color, fruit color, size and shape. Read on to learn about choosing crabapple trees for landscapes.
Popular Crabapple Varieties
There are both fruiting crabapple trees and non-fruiting crabapples. While most flowering crabapples develop fruit, there are a few varieties that are virtually fruitless. Below are some common types of crabapples to choose from:
Fruiting Crabapples
Golden Hornet – This is an upright variety that produces white to pale pink blooms followed by greenish-yellow fruit. The foliage turns from medium green to yellow in fall. Snowdrift – This rounded form produces pink buds that bloom white. Its orange fruit is followed by bright yellow autumn colored leaves. Sugar Tyme – Having an oval-like shape, this crabapple tree has pink flowers with deep red crabapple fruit. It, too, changes from green to yellow in fall.
Sparkling Sprite – Another rounded variety, this one has yellow to golden-orange fruit and its fall foliage is an attractive deep red. Donald Wyman – Turning a golden yellow in fall, this rounded crabapple tree produces white blooms and red fruit early on. Sargent Tina (Dwarf) – If you’re lacking for space, then this round, dwarf form may be just the tree you need. With stunning red spring blossoms followed by bright red fruit, it makes an attractive specimen. Callaway – Another white-flowering crabapple with red fruit, this variety consists of an oval, round shape and produces attractive fall foliage in shades of yellow, orange and red. Adams – This crabapple has a rounded to pyramidal shape with deep pink flowers and glossy red fruit. Its foliage is reddish in color, maturing to green and orange-red in fall.
Anne E – This is a weeping variety producing attractive rosy pink blossoms and bright red fruit followed by yellow fall foliage. Cardinal – Upright in form with rosy red flowers and deep red fruit. The foliage turns reddish-purple to red-orange in autumn. Ellen Gerhart – Another popular upright variety, this crabapple tree has pale pink blossoms and bright red fruit. Brandywine – This rounded variety produces pretty rosy pink blossoms followed by greenish-yellow fruit. You’ll also enjoy its green foliage that’s tinted with red and changes an orange to yellow color in autumn. Centurion – This is a columnar crabapple that produces rosy red blooms and red fruit. The fall leaves may be reddish-green to yellow-orange. Cinzam (Dwarf) – Another dwarf rounded variety, it produces white blossoms that are followed by golden yellow fruit. Velvet Pillar – An upright crabapple tree that produces pink flowers and maroon colored fruit. In autumn, the foliage takes on purple and orange-red hues. Adirondack – This oval formed crabapple has pure white blooms followed by orange-red fruit. Autumn color may be mottled green to yellow.
Non-Fruiting Crabapples
Merilee – A narrow, upright variety, this crabapple bears white blossoms. Prairie Rose – A rounded, medium-green tree with deep pink flowers. Spring Snow – An oval form variety having pure white blooms.
Popular Crabapple Varieties
There are both fruiting crabapple trees and non-fruiting crabapples. While most flowering crabapples develop fruit, there are a few varieties that are virtually fruitless. Below are some common types of crabapples to choose from:
Fruiting Crabapples
Golden Hornet – This is an upright variety that produces white to pale pink blooms followed by greenish-yellow fruit. The foliage turns from medium green to yellow in fall. Snowdrift – This rounded form produces pink buds that bloom white. Its orange fruit is followed by bright yellow autumn colored leaves. Sugar Tyme – Having an oval-like shape, this crabapple tree has pink flowers with deep red crabapple fruit. It, too, changes from green to yellow in fall.
Sparkling Sprite – Another rounded variety, this one has yellow to golden-orange fruit and its fall foliage is an attractive deep red. Donald Wyman – Turning a golden yellow in fall, this rounded crabapple tree produces white blooms and red fruit early on. Sargent Tina (Dwarf) – If you’re lacking for space, then this round, dwarf form may be just the tree you need. With stunning red spring blossoms followed by bright red fruit, it makes an attractive specimen. Callaway – Another white-flowering crabapple with red fruit, this variety consists of an oval, round shape and produces attractive fall foliage in shades of yellow, orange and red. Adams – This crabapple has a rounded to pyramidal shape with deep pink flowers and glossy red fruit. Its foliage is reddish in color, maturing to green and orange-red in fall.
Anne E – This is a weeping variety producing attractive rosy pink blossoms and bright red fruit followed by yellow fall foliage. Cardinal – Upright in form with rosy red flowers and deep red fruit. The foliage turns reddish-purple to red-orange in autumn. Ellen Gerhart – Another popular upright variety, this crabapple tree has pale pink blossoms and bright red fruit. Brandywine – This rounded variety produces pretty rosy pink blossoms followed by greenish-yellow fruit. You’ll also enjoy its green foliage that’s tinted with red and changes an orange to yellow color in autumn. Centurion – This is a columnar crabapple that produces rosy red blooms and red fruit. The fall leaves may be reddish-green to yellow-orange. Cinzam (Dwarf) – Another dwarf rounded variety, it produces white blossoms that are followed by golden yellow fruit. Velvet Pillar – An upright crabapple tree that produces pink flowers and maroon colored fruit. In autumn, the foliage takes on purple and orange-red hues. Adirondack – This oval formed crabapple has pure white blooms followed by orange-red fruit. Autumn color may be mottled green to yellow.
Non-Fruiting Crabapples
Merilee – A narrow, upright variety, this crabapple bears white blossoms. Prairie Rose – A rounded, medium-green tree with deep pink flowers. Spring Snow – An oval form variety having pure white blooms.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Fragrant champaca trees make romantic additions to your garden. These broad-leaf evergreens, bear the scientific name of Magnolia champaca, but were formerly called Michelia champaca. They offer generous crops of large, showy golden flowers. For more fragrant champaca information including tips about caring for champaca trees, read on.
Fragrant Champaca Information
For gardeners unfamiliar with this small garden beauty, the tree is in the magnolia family and native to Southeast Asia. Fragrant champaca trees don’t get larger than 30 feet (9 m.) tall and wide. They have a slender, light gray trunk and a rounded crown and are often trimmed into a lollypop shape.
If you are growing champaca magnolias, you’ll love the yellow/orange flowers. They appear in summer and last through early autumn. The fragrance from the tree’s blossoms is intense and perfumes your entire garden and backyard. In fact, the flower smell is so lovely that it is used to make the most expensive perfume in the world. The tree’s leaves grow to 10 inches (25 cm.) long and stay on the tree all year. They are green, slender and shiny. The seed groups form in summer, then drop in winter. The fruits also form in summer and drop in winter.
Growing Champaca Magnolias
If you are interested in growing fragrant champaca trees, you’ll want information on their cultural requirements. First, be sure you live in a warm region. Champaca plant care starts with siting the tree in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. If you are buying a container plant, here’s what you need to know about caring for champaca trees. They will thrive in almost any soil and, while they prefer a location with morning sun, they tolerate shade. Caring for champaca trees involves lots of water, initially. You’ll have to irrigate your plants regularly and generously until they are established. At that point, you can water them less.
Propagating a Champaca Tree
If you are wondering how to grow fragrant champaca from seed, it is possible. If there are fragrant champaca trees on your street or a nearby park, it is even easier. Start growing champaca magnolias from seed by harvesting the fruit. Wait until the fruit ripens in fall, then remove some from the tree. Put them in a dry place until they split open, revealing the seeds inside. Lightly sand down parts of the seeds with sandpaper and nick them with a knife. Then soak them in hot water for 24 hours until they double in size. It will also make champaca plant care easier if you treat the seeds before planting with a fungicide.
Plant the seeds, just barely covered, in acidic potting soil and spray to keep the soil constantly moist. Keep them covered with plastic wrap to increase humidity. Keep them very warm (85 degrees F. or 29 degrees C.) until they germinate.
Fragrant Champaca Information
For gardeners unfamiliar with this small garden beauty, the tree is in the magnolia family and native to Southeast Asia. Fragrant champaca trees don’t get larger than 30 feet (9 m.) tall and wide. They have a slender, light gray trunk and a rounded crown and are often trimmed into a lollypop shape.
If you are growing champaca magnolias, you’ll love the yellow/orange flowers. They appear in summer and last through early autumn. The fragrance from the tree’s blossoms is intense and perfumes your entire garden and backyard. In fact, the flower smell is so lovely that it is used to make the most expensive perfume in the world. The tree’s leaves grow to 10 inches (25 cm.) long and stay on the tree all year. They are green, slender and shiny. The seed groups form in summer, then drop in winter. The fruits also form in summer and drop in winter.
Growing Champaca Magnolias
If you are interested in growing fragrant champaca trees, you’ll want information on their cultural requirements. First, be sure you live in a warm region. Champaca plant care starts with siting the tree in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. If you are buying a container plant, here’s what you need to know about caring for champaca trees. They will thrive in almost any soil and, while they prefer a location with morning sun, they tolerate shade. Caring for champaca trees involves lots of water, initially. You’ll have to irrigate your plants regularly and generously until they are established. At that point, you can water them less.
Propagating a Champaca Tree
If you are wondering how to grow fragrant champaca from seed, it is possible. If there are fragrant champaca trees on your street or a nearby park, it is even easier. Start growing champaca magnolias from seed by harvesting the fruit. Wait until the fruit ripens in fall, then remove some from the tree. Put them in a dry place until they split open, revealing the seeds inside. Lightly sand down parts of the seeds with sandpaper and nick them with a knife. Then soak them in hot water for 24 hours until they double in size. It will also make champaca plant care easier if you treat the seeds before planting with a fungicide.
Plant the seeds, just barely covered, in acidic potting soil and spray to keep the soil constantly moist. Keep them covered with plastic wrap to increase humidity. Keep them very warm (85 degrees F. or 29 degrees C.) until they germinate.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
With showy, white flowers that bloom in summer and attractive, glossy evergreen foliage, beauty leaf trees are tropical gems that deserve their name. They grow slowly to a height of up to 50 feet with a lush canopy that spreads 30 to 50 feet. Their intense fragrance and dense shade make them highly desirable specimen trees, but as you’ll see, they aren’t suitable for most North American landscapes.
What is a Beauty Leaf Tree?
Beauty leaf tree (Calophyllum inophyllum) is a broadleaf evergreen native to Australia, Eastern Africa and Southern India to Malaysia. According to most Calophyllum tree info, lumber from a beauty leaf is very hard and of high quality. In shipbuilding it is used to make masts and planks, and it is also used to build fine furniture.
All parts of the Calophyllum beauty leaf are considered poisonous. The fruit is so toxic that it can be ground and used as rat bait. The sap is fatal when introduced into the blood stream, and was once used as arrow poison.
Beauty leaf trees make a fine windbreak or hedge trees. They excel as street trees in areas that aren’t frequented by pedestrians. Calophyllums can also be used for espalier trees. Calophyllum beauty leaf is a great tree for frost-free coastal areas. Sandy soil, strong winds and salt spray aren’t a problem. High winds give the trunk a lovely, gnarled and twisted character. The branches are strong and don’t break when blown about.
Can You Grow Calophyllum Trees?
Beauty leaf trees are only for gardeners in frost-free areas. Rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 10b and 11, they die when exposed to freezing temperatures. If you live in a climate where you can grow a beauty leaf tree, you should consider the impact the fruit has on the landscape before planting the tree. Hard, golf ball-sized fruit drop from the tree when ripe. The fruit serves no useful purpose since it is poisonous and is not attractive to wildlife. Leaves and fruit create a significant litter problem and falling fruit is a hazard to anyone who wants to enjoy the shade of the tree’s dense canopy.
What is a Beauty Leaf Tree?
Beauty leaf tree (Calophyllum inophyllum) is a broadleaf evergreen native to Australia, Eastern Africa and Southern India to Malaysia. According to most Calophyllum tree info, lumber from a beauty leaf is very hard and of high quality. In shipbuilding it is used to make masts and planks, and it is also used to build fine furniture.
All parts of the Calophyllum beauty leaf are considered poisonous. The fruit is so toxic that it can be ground and used as rat bait. The sap is fatal when introduced into the blood stream, and was once used as arrow poison.
Beauty leaf trees make a fine windbreak or hedge trees. They excel as street trees in areas that aren’t frequented by pedestrians. Calophyllums can also be used for espalier trees. Calophyllum beauty leaf is a great tree for frost-free coastal areas. Sandy soil, strong winds and salt spray aren’t a problem. High winds give the trunk a lovely, gnarled and twisted character. The branches are strong and don’t break when blown about.
Can You Grow Calophyllum Trees?
Beauty leaf trees are only for gardeners in frost-free areas. Rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 10b and 11, they die when exposed to freezing temperatures. If you live in a climate where you can grow a beauty leaf tree, you should consider the impact the fruit has on the landscape before planting the tree. Hard, golf ball-sized fruit drop from the tree when ripe. The fruit serves no useful purpose since it is poisonous and is not attractive to wildlife. Leaves and fruit create a significant litter problem and falling fruit is a hazard to anyone who wants to enjoy the shade of the tree’s dense canopy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas are a perennial favorite among gardeners and with 2,500 varieties to choose from, there’s a hosta for every garden need, from ground cover to giant specimen. They come in leaf colors that range from almost white to a deep, dark, blue-green. They reach their full maturity in four to eight years and given good care and the right growing conditions, can outlive their owners. They’re a great plant to share with neighbors and friends and are prime candidates for transplanting. Hostas are easily moved once you know how. To transplant hosta plants, you’ll need a good shovel, nutritious additives for the soil, and, for larger specimens in particular, a means to move your plant.
When to Transplant Hostas
Before we discuss how to transplant hostas, we need to talk about when to transplant hostas and that involves both time of day and time of year. The best time to transplant hostas is in the spring, but that’s really because it’s easier on you, the gardener, than on the transplant. Hosta plants always need plenty of water and the trauma of transplant, no matter how slight, increases that need. So, the best time to transplant hostas is when Mother Nature is more likely to do the watering for you. It’s also easier to see the new shoots, without risk of leaf damage. If you have a choice in deciding when to transplant hostas, don’t do it in high summer when the ground is hard and the air is dry.
How to Transplant Hostas
Before transplanting hostas, it’s best to prepare their new home. Remember, when you’re thinking about the best time to transplant hostas, you should also be thinking about the best place to transplant hosta plants. They could be living there for the next fifty years. Dig the new hole wider and deeper than the old. Mix plenty of organic enrichments into the refill dirt and add some time release fertilizer, not only to help get your plants off to a good start, but to give it a healthy future as well. Dig all around the hosta clump and, using a garden shovel or fork, pop the clump out of the ground. Rinse as much of the old soil off as you can without damaging the roots and then move your hosta to its new home. Beware, hosta clumps are heavy! If you’re thinking about dividing your plants, now’s the time to do it.
Have a wheelbarrow handy or a tarp that you can use to drag the clump to its new home. Keep the roots damp and shaded, particularly if there will be a delay in when to transplant. Hosta plants depend on their root’s rapid adjustment to their new environment. Set the clump in its new home a little above the depth it was in the old. Fill in around it with the enriched soil, mounding the soil around the clump until it’s covered to a little over the depth it was before. When the soil settles over time, the clump will rest at its original depth. Keep the clump well watered for the next six to eight weeks and watch it carefully in the weeks thereafter for signs of wilt due to lack of moisture. Be aware that the first season after transplanting hosta may yield smaller leaves due to trauma, but the following year will see your plant happy and healthy once again.
When to Transplant Hostas
Before we discuss how to transplant hostas, we need to talk about when to transplant hostas and that involves both time of day and time of year. The best time to transplant hostas is in the spring, but that’s really because it’s easier on you, the gardener, than on the transplant. Hosta plants always need plenty of water and the trauma of transplant, no matter how slight, increases that need. So, the best time to transplant hostas is when Mother Nature is more likely to do the watering for you. It’s also easier to see the new shoots, without risk of leaf damage. If you have a choice in deciding when to transplant hostas, don’t do it in high summer when the ground is hard and the air is dry.
How to Transplant Hostas
Before transplanting hostas, it’s best to prepare their new home. Remember, when you’re thinking about the best time to transplant hostas, you should also be thinking about the best place to transplant hosta plants. They could be living there for the next fifty years. Dig the new hole wider and deeper than the old. Mix plenty of organic enrichments into the refill dirt and add some time release fertilizer, not only to help get your plants off to a good start, but to give it a healthy future as well. Dig all around the hosta clump and, using a garden shovel or fork, pop the clump out of the ground. Rinse as much of the old soil off as you can without damaging the roots and then move your hosta to its new home. Beware, hosta clumps are heavy! If you’re thinking about dividing your plants, now’s the time to do it.
Have a wheelbarrow handy or a tarp that you can use to drag the clump to its new home. Keep the roots damp and shaded, particularly if there will be a delay in when to transplant. Hosta plants depend on their root’s rapid adjustment to their new environment. Set the clump in its new home a little above the depth it was in the old. Fill in around it with the enriched soil, mounding the soil around the clump until it’s covered to a little over the depth it was before. When the soil settles over time, the clump will rest at its original depth. Keep the clump well watered for the next six to eight weeks and watch it carefully in the weeks thereafter for signs of wilt due to lack of moisture. Be aware that the first season after transplanting hosta may yield smaller leaves due to trauma, but the following year will see your plant happy and healthy once again.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Growing parsley indoors on a sunny windowsill is ornamental as well as practical. Curly types have lacy, frilly foliage that looks great in any setting and flat-leaf varieties are prized for their flavor. Learning how to grow parsley indoors is not at all complicated and neither is indoor parsley care.
Parsley Container Gardening
Parsley herbs (Petroselinum crispum) grow best in a sunny, preferably south-facing window where they will receive six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. If your window doesn’t provide that much light, you’ll have to supplement it with fluorescent lighting. Turn the pot every three or four days so that the plant doesn’t lean into the sun.
Parsley container gardening is no different than growing any other potted herbs. Choose a container that fits snuggly on the window sill. It should have several drainage holes and a saucer underneath to catch water as it drains through. Fill the pot with a good quality potting soil and add a handful of clean sand to improve the drainage. Humidity isn’t usually a problem when you grow parsley in the kitchen where steam from cooking and the frequent use of water helps keep the air moist. In other locations, you may need to mist the plants from time to time. If the leaves look dry and brittle, set the plant on top of a tray of pebbles and add water to the tray, leaving the tops of the pebbles exposed. As the water evaporates, it increases the humidity of the air around the plant.
How to Grow Parsley Indoors
When you’re ready for growing parsley indoors, it’s best to start parsley from seeds sown directly in the container because parsley has a long tap root that doesn’t transplant well. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface of the soil and cover them with an additional 1/4 inch of soil. Water the pot regularly to keep the soil moist to the touch but not soggy, and expect seedlings to emerge in three weeks or so. If you get too many seedlings, you’ll have to thin them out. Clip out the excess with scissors or pinch them out between your fingernail and thumb. Pulling them out may damage the tap roots of the surrounding plants.
Indoor Parsley Care
Indoor parsley care is easy. Keep the soil lightly moist, and empty the saucer under the pot after every watering so that the roots don’t sit in water. Feed the plants every two weeks with fish emulsion or half-strength liquid fertilizer. You can grow other herbs in the container with parsley, if desired. Herbs that combine well in a mixed container with parsley include chives, thyme, basil, oregano and mint. When planting thyme with parsley herbs, stick them around the edges of a container or hanging basket where it can tumble over the edges.
Parsley Container Gardening
Parsley herbs (Petroselinum crispum) grow best in a sunny, preferably south-facing window where they will receive six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. If your window doesn’t provide that much light, you’ll have to supplement it with fluorescent lighting. Turn the pot every three or four days so that the plant doesn’t lean into the sun.
Parsley container gardening is no different than growing any other potted herbs. Choose a container that fits snuggly on the window sill. It should have several drainage holes and a saucer underneath to catch water as it drains through. Fill the pot with a good quality potting soil and add a handful of clean sand to improve the drainage. Humidity isn’t usually a problem when you grow parsley in the kitchen where steam from cooking and the frequent use of water helps keep the air moist. In other locations, you may need to mist the plants from time to time. If the leaves look dry and brittle, set the plant on top of a tray of pebbles and add water to the tray, leaving the tops of the pebbles exposed. As the water evaporates, it increases the humidity of the air around the plant.
How to Grow Parsley Indoors
When you’re ready for growing parsley indoors, it’s best to start parsley from seeds sown directly in the container because parsley has a long tap root that doesn’t transplant well. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface of the soil and cover them with an additional 1/4 inch of soil. Water the pot regularly to keep the soil moist to the touch but not soggy, and expect seedlings to emerge in three weeks or so. If you get too many seedlings, you’ll have to thin them out. Clip out the excess with scissors or pinch them out between your fingernail and thumb. Pulling them out may damage the tap roots of the surrounding plants.
Indoor Parsley Care
Indoor parsley care is easy. Keep the soil lightly moist, and empty the saucer under the pot after every watering so that the roots don’t sit in water. Feed the plants every two weeks with fish emulsion or half-strength liquid fertilizer. You can grow other herbs in the container with parsley, if desired. Herbs that combine well in a mixed container with parsley include chives, thyme, basil, oregano and mint. When planting thyme with parsley herbs, stick them around the edges of a container or hanging basket where it can tumble over the edges.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Italian flat leaf parsley (Petroselinum neapolitanum) may look unassuming but add it to soups and stew, stocks and salads, and you add a fresh flavor and color that makes the dish. Growing Italian parsley in the garden or in a window box will allow the home cook to harness the lively flavor of this plant. Try growing Italian parsley indoors as it does better than curly leaved parsley. You can also learn how to grow Italian parsley outside in the kitchen garden.
What Does Italian Parsley Look Like?
Even the foodie with moderate herbal knowledge may wonder, what does Italian parsley look like? This 6- to 12-inch tall plant has sturdy, slender stems topped with flat, deeply divided leaves. The leaves are soft and pliable and useful whole or chopped. In fact, the entire stem is good cut up and used in chicken salad or other places where celery or some crunchy vegetable would be appropriate. You can even use Italian flat leaf parsley roots in salads or sautés.
Types of Italian Parsley Herbs
There are several cultivars of Italian flat leaf parsley: Gigante Catalogno is a large leaved variety. Italian Dark Green has deep green leaves with a strong flavor and Italian plain leaf, which is the fastest growing type. Giant of Naples is another larger variety. Whichever variety you choose, know the proper conditions for growing Italian parsley and you’ll have a biennial herb that is useful for years.
How to Grow Italian Parsley
Italian parsley herbs require temperate conditions. They don’t perform well in extremely hot areas and are prone to freezing back in cold climates. Choose a sunny site in well-draining soil with plenty of organic amendment. If you’re planting several plants together, allow at least 18 inches between them to prevent mildew from forming on the leaves. Potted plants thrive in a window with indirect light, no drafts and comfortable household temperatures.
Growing Italian Parsley from Seed
Italian parsley is started outdoors after all danger of frost has passed, or inside six to eight weeks before the last expected frost. Use a fine mixture of potting soil, peat moss and sand. Cover with 1/8 fine dusting of soil and keep the seeds misted and lightly moist. Thin seedlings to 10 to 12 inches apart.
Care of Italian Flat Leaf Parsley
Allow the soil to dry out partially between watering. Water deeply approximately once per week and allow excess moisture to drain out. Fertilize plants in the ground in early spring with a balanced fertilizer. Potted plants may be fertilized monthly with a half dilution of liquid plant food.
Trim what you need, taking the stems back to the core of the plant. If your plant is skinny and spindly, try moving it to a brighter area. Cut off any blooms as they occur, as this will cause the plant to seed and leaf production to diminish.
What Does Italian Parsley Look Like?
Even the foodie with moderate herbal knowledge may wonder, what does Italian parsley look like? This 6- to 12-inch tall plant has sturdy, slender stems topped with flat, deeply divided leaves. The leaves are soft and pliable and useful whole or chopped. In fact, the entire stem is good cut up and used in chicken salad or other places where celery or some crunchy vegetable would be appropriate. You can even use Italian flat leaf parsley roots in salads or sautés.
Types of Italian Parsley Herbs
There are several cultivars of Italian flat leaf parsley: Gigante Catalogno is a large leaved variety. Italian Dark Green has deep green leaves with a strong flavor and Italian plain leaf, which is the fastest growing type. Giant of Naples is another larger variety. Whichever variety you choose, know the proper conditions for growing Italian parsley and you’ll have a biennial herb that is useful for years.
How to Grow Italian Parsley
Italian parsley herbs require temperate conditions. They don’t perform well in extremely hot areas and are prone to freezing back in cold climates. Choose a sunny site in well-draining soil with plenty of organic amendment. If you’re planting several plants together, allow at least 18 inches between them to prevent mildew from forming on the leaves. Potted plants thrive in a window with indirect light, no drafts and comfortable household temperatures.
Growing Italian Parsley from Seed
Italian parsley is started outdoors after all danger of frost has passed, or inside six to eight weeks before the last expected frost. Use a fine mixture of potting soil, peat moss and sand. Cover with 1/8 fine dusting of soil and keep the seeds misted and lightly moist. Thin seedlings to 10 to 12 inches apart.
Care of Italian Flat Leaf Parsley
Allow the soil to dry out partially between watering. Water deeply approximately once per week and allow excess moisture to drain out. Fertilize plants in the ground in early spring with a balanced fertilizer. Potted plants may be fertilized monthly with a half dilution of liquid plant food.
Trim what you need, taking the stems back to the core of the plant. If your plant is skinny and spindly, try moving it to a brighter area. Cut off any blooms as they occur, as this will cause the plant to seed and leaf production to diminish.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Parsley root (Petroselinum crispum), also known as Dutch parsley, Hamburg parsley and rooted parsley, shouldn’t be confused with the related leaf parsley. If you plant curly or Italian flat leaf parsley expecting a big edible root, you will be disappointed. If you plant parsley root, however, you’ll get a big parsnip-like root, as well as greens, that can be harvested and regrown throughout the summer. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow parsley root.
What is Parsley Root?
Though its root sets it apart, parsley root is indeed a variety of parsley. Parsley is a member of the carrot family, which goes a long way to explain its appearance. Although its root could be mistaken for a parsnip or a white carrot, its flavor is most similar to celery. Its texture is dry like a parsnip, however, and it can be cooked like one. The leaves are broader and tougher than those of herb parsley varieties, and their flavor is stronger and a bit more bitter. They’re great for garnish, or as an herb when you want a bold taste.
How to Grow Parsley Root
Parsley root plants can be grown from seed. The roots need a long growing season to develop, so start them indoors 5-6 weeks before the last frost date if you live in an area with hard winters. Germination can take as long as 3 weeks, so soak the seeds for 12 hours in warm water first to help it along. When your parsley root plants are 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall, harden them off outdoors, then transplant them when all risk of frost has passed. In hot areas without frost, plant your parsley root plants during the cool season in autumn, winter, or early spring.
Growing parsley root plants like rich loamy soil and frequent watering. They can also be grown in containers provided they are deep enough to accommodate the long roots. Parsley root harvesting happens in phases. If you’re after the leaves, cut the outer stalks off at ground level to encourage new growth. Always leave the inner stalks in place. At the end of the growing season, dig up the entire plant and separate the stalks from the root. Store the root in damp sand or peat and freeze or dry the leaves.
What is Parsley Root?
Though its root sets it apart, parsley root is indeed a variety of parsley. Parsley is a member of the carrot family, which goes a long way to explain its appearance. Although its root could be mistaken for a parsnip or a white carrot, its flavor is most similar to celery. Its texture is dry like a parsnip, however, and it can be cooked like one. The leaves are broader and tougher than those of herb parsley varieties, and their flavor is stronger and a bit more bitter. They’re great for garnish, or as an herb when you want a bold taste.
How to Grow Parsley Root
Parsley root plants can be grown from seed. The roots need a long growing season to develop, so start them indoors 5-6 weeks before the last frost date if you live in an area with hard winters. Germination can take as long as 3 weeks, so soak the seeds for 12 hours in warm water first to help it along. When your parsley root plants are 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall, harden them off outdoors, then transplant them when all risk of frost has passed. In hot areas without frost, plant your parsley root plants during the cool season in autumn, winter, or early spring.
Growing parsley root plants like rich loamy soil and frequent watering. They can also be grown in containers provided they are deep enough to accommodate the long roots. Parsley root harvesting happens in phases. If you’re after the leaves, cut the outer stalks off at ground level to encourage new growth. Always leave the inner stalks in place. At the end of the growing season, dig up the entire plant and separate the stalks from the root. Store the root in damp sand or peat and freeze or dry the leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Herbs enliven the garden and accent it with a richness of texture, unique scents and properties. Calamint (Calamintha nepeta) is a native herb to the UK with a host of potential medicinal uses and a lovely flower display and intense leaf texture. The herb thrives in organic to sandy soils and releases a strong camphor scent when the leaves are crushed. You may wonder, “Can I grow calamint?” The plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 9 and is an easy to grow and care for herb.
About Calamint Plants
Calamint plants are thick stemmed, bushy herbs that spread from rhizomes like most mint plants. The leaves are heavily veined and highly textured, many sporting ridges and most with hairy or fuzzy foliage. Some types of calamint may be 4 to 24 inches tall and bloom in mid to late summer with some varieties flowering in fall. Flowers are two-lipped slender tubes in hues that range from purple to red and into white and cream. The plant can self-sow but its more invasive qualities are found from the ranging stems and rhizomes, which root at internodes and can create new plants.
Types of Calamint
Calamint is a member of the Labiatae family and includes all types of mints. This group of herbs is vast and includes a variety of cultivars and specimens. There is a grandiflora variety with larger fuzzy veined leaves and lavender tubular flowers. The scent is amazing, with a burst of minty-tangerine freshness. Among the lesser calamint is a variety with a grapefruit-mint scent and many other pungent aromas. The diminutive Ozark calamint is only 6 inches tall with vibrant red flowers in late spring. Other varieties sport imaginative names such as wild basil, monkey flower, mountain thyme and limestone savory. The smallest of the lesser calamint is a 4-inch tall trailing variety with pink to mauve blooms.
Growing Calamint Herbs
Place calamint plants in full sun where soils drain well. Container gardening is a good way to keep the herbs from spreading. They also make excellent border plants but some maintenance is necessary to keep the plant from invading other areas. The potager garden is also a prime spot for growing calamint herbs. There you can easily access the leaves and stems for a host of useful purposes. Calamint has few pest or disease problems but you need to be vigilant for small insect pests such as whitefly. Treat with a horticultural soap or blasts of fresh water to rinse off the insects.
How to Use Calamint
This has long been a medicinal herb with uses ranging from topical to endemic. The high menthol content of the leaves makes it a perfect poultice for bruises and contusions, as well as a rub for bronchial issues.It is not wise to handle or use the herb if you are pregnant. But how to use calamint in seasoning? Traditionally, the herb has been used to flavor meats, but the variety dictates the flavor profile. Some more closely resemble thyme, while others are similar to zingy basil. Calamint plants are attractive to butterflies and bees and dry well as an addition to potpourri. Dry the leaves for a refreshing hot or cold tea. This versatile plant will become one of your favorites for its carefree nature, beauty and usefulness.
About Calamint Plants
Calamint plants are thick stemmed, bushy herbs that spread from rhizomes like most mint plants. The leaves are heavily veined and highly textured, many sporting ridges and most with hairy or fuzzy foliage. Some types of calamint may be 4 to 24 inches tall and bloom in mid to late summer with some varieties flowering in fall. Flowers are two-lipped slender tubes in hues that range from purple to red and into white and cream. The plant can self-sow but its more invasive qualities are found from the ranging stems and rhizomes, which root at internodes and can create new plants.
Types of Calamint
Calamint is a member of the Labiatae family and includes all types of mints. This group of herbs is vast and includes a variety of cultivars and specimens. There is a grandiflora variety with larger fuzzy veined leaves and lavender tubular flowers. The scent is amazing, with a burst of minty-tangerine freshness. Among the lesser calamint is a variety with a grapefruit-mint scent and many other pungent aromas. The diminutive Ozark calamint is only 6 inches tall with vibrant red flowers in late spring. Other varieties sport imaginative names such as wild basil, monkey flower, mountain thyme and limestone savory. The smallest of the lesser calamint is a 4-inch tall trailing variety with pink to mauve blooms.
Growing Calamint Herbs
Place calamint plants in full sun where soils drain well. Container gardening is a good way to keep the herbs from spreading. They also make excellent border plants but some maintenance is necessary to keep the plant from invading other areas. The potager garden is also a prime spot for growing calamint herbs. There you can easily access the leaves and stems for a host of useful purposes. Calamint has few pest or disease problems but you need to be vigilant for small insect pests such as whitefly. Treat with a horticultural soap or blasts of fresh water to rinse off the insects.
How to Use Calamint
This has long been a medicinal herb with uses ranging from topical to endemic. The high menthol content of the leaves makes it a perfect poultice for bruises and contusions, as well as a rub for bronchial issues.It is not wise to handle or use the herb if you are pregnant. But how to use calamint in seasoning? Traditionally, the herb has been used to flavor meats, but the variety dictates the flavor profile. Some more closely resemble thyme, while others are similar to zingy basil. Calamint plants are attractive to butterflies and bees and dry well as an addition to potpourri. Dry the leaves for a refreshing hot or cold tea. This versatile plant will become one of your favorites for its carefree nature, beauty and usefulness.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Curry leaf plants are a component of the Indian seasoning called curry. Curry seasoning is a compilation of many herbs and spices, whose flavor can sometimes come from curry leaf plants. Curry leaf herb is a culinary plant whose leaves are used as an aromatic and the fruit of the plant is a component of desserts in some Eastern nations.
About the Curry Leaf Herb
The curry leaf tree (Murraya koenigii) is a small bush or tree that only grows 13 to just under 20 feet in height. The plant is tropical to sub-tropical and produces small fragrant white flowers that become small, black, berry-like fruits. The fruit is edible, but the seed is poisonous and must be removed prior to use. The foliage is the real standout and are arranged alternately on the stem, pinnate and comprised of many leaflets. The aromatic scent is spicy and heady and best when the leaves are fresh.
Growing Curry Leaves
Curry leaf plants may be grown from cuttings or seed. The seed is the pit of the fruit and can either be cleaned or the entire fruit may be sown. Fresh seed shows the greatest rate of germination. Sow the seeds in potting soil and keep them damp but not wet. They will need a warm area of at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 C.) to germinate. Growing curry leaf tree from seed is not an easy task because germination is fickle. Other methods are more consistent. You can also use fresh curry leaves with petiole or stem and start a plant. Treat the leaves as a cutting and insert into a soilless potting medium. Take a piece of stem from the tree that is about 3 inches long and has several leaves. Remove the bottom 1 inch of leaves. Immerse the bare stem into the medium and mist thoroughly. It will root in about three weeks if you keep it warm and moist. Growing curry leaves to produce a new plant is the easiest method of propagation. Growing curry leaf tree in the home garden is only advisable in areas without freezes. Curry leaf plant is frost tender but it can be grown indoors. Plant the tree in a well drained pot with good potting mix and place in a sunny area. Feed it weekly with a diluted solution of seaweed fertilizer and trim the leaves as needed. Watch the plant for mites and scale. Use an insecticidal soap to combat the pests. Curry leaf requires moderately moist soil. Curry leaf care is quite straight forward and even suitable for a beginner.
Using Curry Leaf Herb
Curry leaves have the strongest flavor and aroma when fresh. You can use them in soups, sauces and stews as you would use a bay leaf and fish it out when the leaf has steeped. You can also dry the leaves and crush them for use. Store them in a sealed glass jar out of light and use within a couple of months. Because they lose flavor quickly, growing curry leaf tree is the best way to have a good, constant supply of this flavorful herb.
About the Curry Leaf Herb
The curry leaf tree (Murraya koenigii) is a small bush or tree that only grows 13 to just under 20 feet in height. The plant is tropical to sub-tropical and produces small fragrant white flowers that become small, black, berry-like fruits. The fruit is edible, but the seed is poisonous and must be removed prior to use. The foliage is the real standout and are arranged alternately on the stem, pinnate and comprised of many leaflets. The aromatic scent is spicy and heady and best when the leaves are fresh.
Growing Curry Leaves
Curry leaf plants may be grown from cuttings or seed. The seed is the pit of the fruit and can either be cleaned or the entire fruit may be sown. Fresh seed shows the greatest rate of germination. Sow the seeds in potting soil and keep them damp but not wet. They will need a warm area of at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 C.) to germinate. Growing curry leaf tree from seed is not an easy task because germination is fickle. Other methods are more consistent. You can also use fresh curry leaves with petiole or stem and start a plant. Treat the leaves as a cutting and insert into a soilless potting medium. Take a piece of stem from the tree that is about 3 inches long and has several leaves. Remove the bottom 1 inch of leaves. Immerse the bare stem into the medium and mist thoroughly. It will root in about three weeks if you keep it warm and moist. Growing curry leaves to produce a new plant is the easiest method of propagation. Growing curry leaf tree in the home garden is only advisable in areas without freezes. Curry leaf plant is frost tender but it can be grown indoors. Plant the tree in a well drained pot with good potting mix and place in a sunny area. Feed it weekly with a diluted solution of seaweed fertilizer and trim the leaves as needed. Watch the plant for mites and scale. Use an insecticidal soap to combat the pests. Curry leaf requires moderately moist soil. Curry leaf care is quite straight forward and even suitable for a beginner.
Using Curry Leaf Herb
Curry leaves have the strongest flavor and aroma when fresh. You can use them in soups, sauces and stews as you would use a bay leaf and fish it out when the leaf has steeped. You can also dry the leaves and crush them for use. Store them in a sealed glass jar out of light and use within a couple of months. Because they lose flavor quickly, growing curry leaf tree is the best way to have a good, constant supply of this flavorful herb.
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