文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Growing bay leaf trees have been cultivated for centuries for their subtle flavor, aroma and medicinal uses. Sweet bay leaf spots may make one cringe regarding the wisdom of using them in culinary creations such as soups, stews, brines, shellfish boils and teas let alone for ornamental uses such as herbal wreaths, topiaries or potpourri. So let’s take a look at the causes and care of bay leaf tree problems, such as black spots on bay leaves.
Bay Leaf Tree Care
Growing bay leaf trees require a little patience as they are slow growing evergreens, although they may live for 40 years or longer and attain a height of 10 feet (or up to 23 feet in the wild). Care of bay leaf trees is minimal when bearing in mind that Laurus nobilis is hardy in USDA zone 8, thrives in rich, well-drained soil (pH 6.2), dislikes overwatering and should be brought indoors when the temperature dips in the fall months.
Sweet Bay Leaf Spots by Insects
A plague in the care of bay tree leaf problems are aphids, mites and hard shelled scales. Their honeydew causes sooty mold, giving the appearance of black spots when growing bay leaf trees. Care of bay tree leaf problems of this ilk require a strong blast of water to dislodge some of the marauders, followed by a treatment of insecticidal soap or neem oil. Both insecticidal soap and neem oil are safe to use and can be easily rinsed off the leaves before using in food. Several weekly applications may be needed to resolve black spots on bay leaves caused by insects.
Other Causes of Black Spots on Bay Leaves
If no evidence of insects is to be found, another cause for black spots on bay leaves may be leaf spot disease. Care of bay tree leaf problems caused by this involve primarily removing all the affected leaves and allowing the soil to dry between watering. Make sure the plant is not sitting in water and water at the base of the plant to allow leaves to remain dry. A bacterial or fungal infection such as phytophthora ramorum may additionally be creating sweet bay leaf spots. Care of bay leaf tree problems of this type again involves removing any infected leaves from the plant and surrounding area and burn or seal in a plastic bag for dispatch. Take care to have leaves dry by mid morning, thereby discouraging a hospitable environment for spores to take hold. A sulfur spray may discourage any further infection and black spots on bay leaves. Although chemical control is not usually warranted, if you do decide to spray, spring is the optimal time at bud break during the growing season in 12 to 14 day intervals. Lastly, a possible cause of black spots on bay leaves may simply be sunburn. Moving the plant from indoors back outside too suddenly may burn the leaves as may a reflection from glass indoors. Always look into the simplest solution first such as too much sun or water or the need for repotting.
Bay Leaf Tree Care
Growing bay leaf trees require a little patience as they are slow growing evergreens, although they may live for 40 years or longer and attain a height of 10 feet (or up to 23 feet in the wild). Care of bay leaf trees is minimal when bearing in mind that Laurus nobilis is hardy in USDA zone 8, thrives in rich, well-drained soil (pH 6.2), dislikes overwatering and should be brought indoors when the temperature dips in the fall months.
Sweet Bay Leaf Spots by Insects
A plague in the care of bay tree leaf problems are aphids, mites and hard shelled scales. Their honeydew causes sooty mold, giving the appearance of black spots when growing bay leaf trees. Care of bay tree leaf problems of this ilk require a strong blast of water to dislodge some of the marauders, followed by a treatment of insecticidal soap or neem oil. Both insecticidal soap and neem oil are safe to use and can be easily rinsed off the leaves before using in food. Several weekly applications may be needed to resolve black spots on bay leaves caused by insects.
Other Causes of Black Spots on Bay Leaves
If no evidence of insects is to be found, another cause for black spots on bay leaves may be leaf spot disease. Care of bay tree leaf problems caused by this involve primarily removing all the affected leaves and allowing the soil to dry between watering. Make sure the plant is not sitting in water and water at the base of the plant to allow leaves to remain dry. A bacterial or fungal infection such as phytophthora ramorum may additionally be creating sweet bay leaf spots. Care of bay leaf tree problems of this type again involves removing any infected leaves from the plant and surrounding area and burn or seal in a plastic bag for dispatch. Take care to have leaves dry by mid morning, thereby discouraging a hospitable environment for spores to take hold. A sulfur spray may discourage any further infection and black spots on bay leaves. Although chemical control is not usually warranted, if you do decide to spray, spring is the optimal time at bud break during the growing season in 12 to 14 day intervals. Lastly, a possible cause of black spots on bay leaves may simply be sunburn. Moving the plant from indoors back outside too suddenly may burn the leaves as may a reflection from glass indoors. Always look into the simplest solution first such as too much sun or water or the need for repotting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Bay leaf is known as a seasoning, but those leaves grow on a tree of the same name. It can row to 60 feet (18 m.) high in the wild. Can you grow bay in a container? It is entirely possible. A bay leaf tree in a pot is attractive, accepts pruning and stays much smaller than forest trees. For information about growing bay leaves in containers, read on.
Bay Laurel in a Container
Bay leaf (Laurus nobilis), also called bay laurel or bay tree, is an evergreen tree native to the Mediterranean region. It is known to American cooks as a seasoning, but to gardeners, it is also a charming garden ornamental. Bay leaf has been grown for centuries. The famous celebratory “crown of laurels” was made from bay leaf. In addition, the leaves are used medicinally in Europe.
Bay laurel has attractive, shiny foliage that stays on the tree all year round. Add to that the delight of a sweet fragrance with a touch of spicy nutmeg. The tree grows yellow flowers that turn into dark berries in the autumn. Container grown bay trees are nice additions to a small garden. If you are growing bay leaves in containers, you can leave them outside in winter if you live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. If your climate is cooler, you’ll have to carry the container-grown bay trees inside in winter.
How to Grow Bay Leaf Tree in a Pot
A bay leaf can grow into a towering tree over time, so how can you grow bay in a container? The fact is, bay leaf grows very slowly and accepts almost severe pruning. You can snip it down to size by pruning every year. And when you grow bay laurel in a container, the tree naturally stays smaller than when its roots are in the soil. To start growing bay leaves in containers, you can plant bay leaf seeds. But seeds take a long time to get started. It’s faster if you purchase small seedlings. They will ultimately grow into mature bay trees. Drainage is very important to a bay leaf. Select a container with ample drain holes and use container soil that drains easily. Start with a small pot and repot when necessary. Don’t be in a hurry to transplant your bay laurel in a container. The plants do well when they are a little cramped. Wait until you see roots coming out of the container’s drainage holes.
Where to put a bay leaf tree in a pot? If it is outdoors, select a spot that is somewhat protected from the elements. Pick a spot with some shade and with wind protection. If you bring the pot inside during cold weather, put it in a cool spot. It will go dormant, so won’t require much water or sun. If you site the bay leaf tree in a pot in a warmer area, it will not be dormant, so you’ll need to make sure it gets some sun and regular water.
Bay Laurel in a Container
Bay leaf (Laurus nobilis), also called bay laurel or bay tree, is an evergreen tree native to the Mediterranean region. It is known to American cooks as a seasoning, but to gardeners, it is also a charming garden ornamental. Bay leaf has been grown for centuries. The famous celebratory “crown of laurels” was made from bay leaf. In addition, the leaves are used medicinally in Europe.
Bay laurel has attractive, shiny foliage that stays on the tree all year round. Add to that the delight of a sweet fragrance with a touch of spicy nutmeg. The tree grows yellow flowers that turn into dark berries in the autumn. Container grown bay trees are nice additions to a small garden. If you are growing bay leaves in containers, you can leave them outside in winter if you live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. If your climate is cooler, you’ll have to carry the container-grown bay trees inside in winter.
How to Grow Bay Leaf Tree in a Pot
A bay leaf can grow into a towering tree over time, so how can you grow bay in a container? The fact is, bay leaf grows very slowly and accepts almost severe pruning. You can snip it down to size by pruning every year. And when you grow bay laurel in a container, the tree naturally stays smaller than when its roots are in the soil. To start growing bay leaves in containers, you can plant bay leaf seeds. But seeds take a long time to get started. It’s faster if you purchase small seedlings. They will ultimately grow into mature bay trees. Drainage is very important to a bay leaf. Select a container with ample drain holes and use container soil that drains easily. Start with a small pot and repot when necessary. Don’t be in a hurry to transplant your bay laurel in a container. The plants do well when they are a little cramped. Wait until you see roots coming out of the container’s drainage holes.
Where to put a bay leaf tree in a pot? If it is outdoors, select a spot that is somewhat protected from the elements. Pick a spot with some shade and with wind protection. If you bring the pot inside during cold weather, put it in a cool spot. It will go dormant, so won’t require much water or sun. If you site the bay leaf tree in a pot in a warmer area, it will not be dormant, so you’ll need to make sure it gets some sun and regular water.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Bay leaves add their essence and aroma to our soups and stews, but did you ever wonder how to grow a bay leaf tree? The seasoning is so commonplace it is easy to forget that the leaves are from a growing tree. The sweet bay leaf tree (Laurus nobilis) is a 40- to 50-foot tall tree native to the Mediterranean region. It was once made into a wreath to crown the winners of ancient Greek games. The tree is considered to be one of the oldest cultivated tree species.
About Sweet Bay Leaf Trees
Sweet bay leaf tree is frost tender and is only hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 7. It prefers a full sun exposure and blooms in spring to summer. The leaves are leathery and stiff with a strong mid-rib. Crushing the leaf releases aromatic oil that is the source of the flavoring for foods. Bay tree care is very simple and straightforward but protection must be given to these trees in cold climates.
How to Grow a Bay Leaf Tree
Sweet bay trees should be planted in well drained soil with an incorporation of generous amounts of compost. The trees can be kept at a smaller growth habit if grown in a container, which also allows the gardener to bring the tree indoors or to a sheltered location when cold temperatures threaten. Plant the trees at the same level in soil that they were grown in their nursery pot. Planting bay trees is best done in early spring when they are semi-dormant.
You can grow a bay tree simply as an ornamental plant or as part of your culinary arsenal. Growing a bay tree from cuttings or air layering is the common form of propagation. Cuttings should be taken in late summer and set into a soil-less medium. Air layering requires the gardener to wound the tree and pack it with sphagnum moss until roots form in the wound. The stem or branch can then be cut off and planted. Protect sweet bay trees from heavy winds, which are damaging to the weak wood. Bay trees do not need feeding or supplemental watering in winter. Bay trees can be trained to a topiary or other form with careful management when the plant is young. Place a potted plant in an area where temperatures range from 45 to 64 F. (7 to 17 C.) and where sunlight is from a southern or eastern direction.
Harvest and Use of Sweet Bay Leaf Tree
Leaves may be harvested at any time but the best flavor can be had from larger, mature leaves. Lay the leaves out to dry and crush them or use them whole but remove before eating. The leaves are a common ingredient in the French seasoning packet, bouquet garni, which is wrapped in cheesecloth and steeped in soups and sauces. It is worth learning how to grow a bay leaf tree for ornamentation and fresh wholesome seasoning.
About Sweet Bay Leaf Trees
Sweet bay leaf tree is frost tender and is only hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 7. It prefers a full sun exposure and blooms in spring to summer. The leaves are leathery and stiff with a strong mid-rib. Crushing the leaf releases aromatic oil that is the source of the flavoring for foods. Bay tree care is very simple and straightforward but protection must be given to these trees in cold climates.
How to Grow a Bay Leaf Tree
Sweet bay trees should be planted in well drained soil with an incorporation of generous amounts of compost. The trees can be kept at a smaller growth habit if grown in a container, which also allows the gardener to bring the tree indoors or to a sheltered location when cold temperatures threaten. Plant the trees at the same level in soil that they were grown in their nursery pot. Planting bay trees is best done in early spring when they are semi-dormant.
You can grow a bay tree simply as an ornamental plant or as part of your culinary arsenal. Growing a bay tree from cuttings or air layering is the common form of propagation. Cuttings should be taken in late summer and set into a soil-less medium. Air layering requires the gardener to wound the tree and pack it with sphagnum moss until roots form in the wound. The stem or branch can then be cut off and planted. Protect sweet bay trees from heavy winds, which are damaging to the weak wood. Bay trees do not need feeding or supplemental watering in winter. Bay trees can be trained to a topiary or other form with careful management when the plant is young. Place a potted plant in an area where temperatures range from 45 to 64 F. (7 to 17 C.) and where sunlight is from a southern or eastern direction.
Harvest and Use of Sweet Bay Leaf Tree
Leaves may be harvested at any time but the best flavor can be had from larger, mature leaves. Lay the leaves out to dry and crush them or use them whole but remove before eating. The leaves are a common ingredient in the French seasoning packet, bouquet garni, which is wrapped in cheesecloth and steeped in soups and sauces. It is worth learning how to grow a bay leaf tree for ornamentation and fresh wholesome seasoning.
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0
成长记
stureburk
2017年08月24日
Managed to remove the leaf and pull some of the pups apart. Just hoping they realise the roots are good for you.
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0
成长记
stureburk
2017年08月24日
The original leaf is still so firm, but I guess since it grew roots so early it didn't really need the energy stored in it. Or something.
3
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Scheffleras are ornamental foliage plants. In most zones, they are only suitable as houseplants because they are extremely tender. The wide leaf clusters resemble the spokes of an umbrella and have given them the nickname, umbrella tree. Schefflera plants are remarkably tolerant houseplants and do well in a variety of situations; however, they are also prey to insect pests. Sticky Schefflera leaves are likely a symptom of some hitchhiking bugs that are sucking the life out of your prized plant. 
Why is my Schefflera Sticky?
Scheffleras have gorgeous,large glossy leaves arranged in a circle around a central stem. Each of the leaflets that make up the entire umbrella design can get up to 12 inches long in mature plants. Indoor plants benefit from having the leaves dusted and it is during this activity that you may notice something new on the plant — sticky stuff on Schefflera foliage. The culprits may be several sucking insect pests which deposit excrement called honeydew on their host plant’s foliage, creating sticky Schefflera leaves.
Look under the leaves and on the stems of a Schefflera with sticky substance on its leaves. The problem stems from very small insects that feed on the sap of the plant and slowly reduce its vigor. The honeydew leaves behind a shiny, sticky mess. You can wash off the honeydew and get rid of some of the bugs, but just a few left behind will quickly colonize and before you know it you will have a sticky Schefflera plant again. The most common culprits that cause sticky Schefflera leaves are aphids, mites or mealybugs. If you have an ant problem in the house, you may also notice ants in and around the plant. This is because ants “farm” aphids to keep them around for the honeydew, which is an ant food favorite.
What to Do About Sticky Schefflera Leaves
Any Schefflera with sticky substance on the leaves can be initially treated by taking it outdoors and blasting the leaves with water. Aphids rinse off the leaves and this treatment usually works well if you follow up at the first sign of the pests. Systemic treatments formulated for houseplants work to prevent the pests and subsequent sticky stuff on Schefflera. It translocates from roots to stem to leaves, so that the insects intake it through their feeding activity. A kinder, gentler solution when children and pets are present is Neem oil. This natural oil comes from a tree native to India. It has both toxic and repellent properties to many insects but is safe for use in the home.
Recovery for a Sticky Schefflera Plant
After a successful treatment and all signs of insect pests are gone, it is time to assess the damage. If your plant was dropping leaves, discoloring or failing to produce new growth, it is likely the insects damaged its health to some degree. That means you need to baby a plant that had been affected. Once the Schefflera with sticky substance has been cleaned up and the pests have been eradicated, ill health may continue. Give the plant a gentle fertilizer every two weeks such as diluted compost tea or diluted fish or seaweed fertilizer. Water the plant regularly when the top 3 inches of soil are dry. Repot plants that have poor soil, using a good potting soil with organic amendment. Over the course of a few weeks you should see improvement in your plant and it will be its old glossy self again.
Why is my Schefflera Sticky?
Scheffleras have gorgeous,large glossy leaves arranged in a circle around a central stem. Each of the leaflets that make up the entire umbrella design can get up to 12 inches long in mature plants. Indoor plants benefit from having the leaves dusted and it is during this activity that you may notice something new on the plant — sticky stuff on Schefflera foliage. The culprits may be several sucking insect pests which deposit excrement called honeydew on their host plant’s foliage, creating sticky Schefflera leaves.
Look under the leaves and on the stems of a Schefflera with sticky substance on its leaves. The problem stems from very small insects that feed on the sap of the plant and slowly reduce its vigor. The honeydew leaves behind a shiny, sticky mess. You can wash off the honeydew and get rid of some of the bugs, but just a few left behind will quickly colonize and before you know it you will have a sticky Schefflera plant again. The most common culprits that cause sticky Schefflera leaves are aphids, mites or mealybugs. If you have an ant problem in the house, you may also notice ants in and around the plant. This is because ants “farm” aphids to keep them around for the honeydew, which is an ant food favorite.
What to Do About Sticky Schefflera Leaves
Any Schefflera with sticky substance on the leaves can be initially treated by taking it outdoors and blasting the leaves with water. Aphids rinse off the leaves and this treatment usually works well if you follow up at the first sign of the pests. Systemic treatments formulated for houseplants work to prevent the pests and subsequent sticky stuff on Schefflera. It translocates from roots to stem to leaves, so that the insects intake it through their feeding activity. A kinder, gentler solution when children and pets are present is Neem oil. This natural oil comes from a tree native to India. It has both toxic and repellent properties to many insects but is safe for use in the home.
Recovery for a Sticky Schefflera Plant
After a successful treatment and all signs of insect pests are gone, it is time to assess the damage. If your plant was dropping leaves, discoloring or failing to produce new growth, it is likely the insects damaged its health to some degree. That means you need to baby a plant that had been affected. Once the Schefflera with sticky substance has been cleaned up and the pests have been eradicated, ill health may continue. Give the plant a gentle fertilizer every two weeks such as diluted compost tea or diluted fish or seaweed fertilizer. Water the plant regularly when the top 3 inches of soil are dry. Repot plants that have poor soil, using a good potting soil with organic amendment. Over the course of a few weeks you should see improvement in your plant and it will be its old glossy self again.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Leaves Dropping From Christmas Cactus: Fixing Leaf Drop On Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus is relatively easy to grow, so if you notice Christmas cactus leaves dropping off, you’re justifiably mystified and concerned about the health of your plant. It isn’t always easy to determine what causes leaves dropping from Christmas cactus, but there are a number of possibilities. So why do Christmas cacti drop their leaves, you ask? Read on to learn more.
Why Do Christmas Cacti Drop Their Leaves?
Most frequently grown as a houseplant, it has the distinct property of blooming when the days are shortest, bringing color and brightness when most other plants are dying or settling in for the winter. This is all the more reason to be concerned when your Christmas cactus is losing leaves. Preventing and fixing leaf drop on Christmas cactus may be as simple as pinpointing the problem. When otherwise healthy leaves fall from Christmas cactus plants, there are a few possible reasons, with the following being the most common:
Improper watering – When it comes to caring for Christmas cactus, overwatering is a big no-no. Although Christmas cactus requires more moisture than its desert cousins, too much water can cause the plant to rot – a common cause for leaves dropping from Christmas cactus. Although not quite so common, underwatering can also cause leaves to drop. As a rule of thumb, a Christmas cactus should be watered about once a week, or when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water until moisture trickles through the drainage hole, then allow the pot to drain completely before placing it on the top. Don’t allow the soil to become bone dry, but never allow it to remain soggy. Water the plant sparingly during fall and winter. Poorly-drained soil – If your Christmas cactus leaves are falling off, it may also be caused by soil that is too dense or compacted. Christmas cactus requires porous, well-drained soil. If the soil is compacted or doesn’t drain well, it may benefit from repotting in a clean pot with fresh potting soil. A potting mix consisting of approximately 75 percent regular, good quality potting soil with 25 percent sand or perlite works well. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Temperature – Too much heat or cold may be to blame for Christmas cactus leaves dropping off. Christmas cactus doesn’t appreciate cold temperature. As a general rule, the plant prefers temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) during spring and summer, and slightly cooler temperatures during fall and winter. Don’t allow temperatures to rise above 90 F. (32 C.). Cooler temperatures are beneficial while the plant is setting buds, but never below 50 F. (10 C.).
Avoid sudden temperature changes and protect the plant from drafty windows and heat sources such as fireplaces or vents. If you’ve just bought your Christmas cactus or just moved it in from its summer spot outdoors, it’s probably experiencing a big change in environment. The shock of this change may make it drop a few leaves, and there’s not much that can be done about this. Light – Christmas cactus performs best in bright, indirect sunlight and may be damaged in bright, intense light, especially during the summer. One nice thing about a Christmas cactus dropping leaves is that these plants are very easy to propagate. What we refer to as “leaves” are really segmented branches. As long as they’re healthy looking, try planting your dropped branch in a new container – chances are good that it will take root and grow into a new plant.
Christmas cactus is relatively easy to grow, so if you notice Christmas cactus leaves dropping off, you’re justifiably mystified and concerned about the health of your plant. It isn’t always easy to determine what causes leaves dropping from Christmas cactus, but there are a number of possibilities. So why do Christmas cacti drop their leaves, you ask? Read on to learn more.
Why Do Christmas Cacti Drop Their Leaves?
Most frequently grown as a houseplant, it has the distinct property of blooming when the days are shortest, bringing color and brightness when most other plants are dying or settling in for the winter. This is all the more reason to be concerned when your Christmas cactus is losing leaves. Preventing and fixing leaf drop on Christmas cactus may be as simple as pinpointing the problem. When otherwise healthy leaves fall from Christmas cactus plants, there are a few possible reasons, with the following being the most common:
Improper watering – When it comes to caring for Christmas cactus, overwatering is a big no-no. Although Christmas cactus requires more moisture than its desert cousins, too much water can cause the plant to rot – a common cause for leaves dropping from Christmas cactus. Although not quite so common, underwatering can also cause leaves to drop. As a rule of thumb, a Christmas cactus should be watered about once a week, or when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water until moisture trickles through the drainage hole, then allow the pot to drain completely before placing it on the top. Don’t allow the soil to become bone dry, but never allow it to remain soggy. Water the plant sparingly during fall and winter. Poorly-drained soil – If your Christmas cactus leaves are falling off, it may also be caused by soil that is too dense or compacted. Christmas cactus requires porous, well-drained soil. If the soil is compacted or doesn’t drain well, it may benefit from repotting in a clean pot with fresh potting soil. A potting mix consisting of approximately 75 percent regular, good quality potting soil with 25 percent sand or perlite works well. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Temperature – Too much heat or cold may be to blame for Christmas cactus leaves dropping off. Christmas cactus doesn’t appreciate cold temperature. As a general rule, the plant prefers temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) during spring and summer, and slightly cooler temperatures during fall and winter. Don’t allow temperatures to rise above 90 F. (32 C.). Cooler temperatures are beneficial while the plant is setting buds, but never below 50 F. (10 C.).
Avoid sudden temperature changes and protect the plant from drafty windows and heat sources such as fireplaces or vents. If you’ve just bought your Christmas cactus or just moved it in from its summer spot outdoors, it’s probably experiencing a big change in environment. The shock of this change may make it drop a few leaves, and there’s not much that can be done about this. Light – Christmas cactus performs best in bright, indirect sunlight and may be damaged in bright, intense light, especially during the summer. One nice thing about a Christmas cactus dropping leaves is that these plants are very easy to propagate. What we refer to as “leaves” are really segmented branches. As long as they’re healthy looking, try planting your dropped branch in a new container – chances are good that it will take root and grow into a new plant.
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成长记
stureburk
2017年08月14日
Growth spurt! The leaf has really on its last legs now, so hopefully it has enough roots to go at it alone.
2
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Annual bread-seed or lettuce-leaf poppies (Papaver somniferum) produce flat, tissue-papery blooms in shades of pink, red, purple and white. They grow 4 to 5 feet tall, with lush, pale green foliage that stands upright from the stalk. These are the same poppies that are the source of opium and it is illegal in the United States to grow them for that purpose.
Colors
While specific strains, such as Lauren's Grape (purple), Danish Flag (deep orange with white feathery centers) and peony poppies (multiple petals in jewel tones) are offered in commercial seed packages, grocery-store poppy seeds grow just as well, although in limited colors and types. Most produce a single pink poppy flower.
Timing
Annual poppies grow best if they get a period of cold, so it is often recommended that they be planted in fall or sprinkled on the snow. However, especially in areas with wet winters and cold springs, planting in mid-February yields better results.
Planting
Scatter the seeds on the ground and do not cover them, as sunlight is needed for germination. If your climate is dry, keep the seeds moist with a fine spray from the hose until they come up. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, thin out any crowded clumps.
Gathering Seeds
Poppy flowers last only a few days. After the petals drop, the poppy seed heads will begin to dry. Leave them on the plant until the stalks have turned beige and the slits at the top of the poppy pod have opened to release the seeds. Gather the heads and let them dry completely, then shake out the seeds.
Replanting
Many of the seeds will fall to the ground and plant themselves, but save some seeds to scatter again in spring, especially if the grocery-store seeds yield any unusual colors or forms that you wish to grow again.
Colors
While specific strains, such as Lauren's Grape (purple), Danish Flag (deep orange with white feathery centers) and peony poppies (multiple petals in jewel tones) are offered in commercial seed packages, grocery-store poppy seeds grow just as well, although in limited colors and types. Most produce a single pink poppy flower.
Timing
Annual poppies grow best if they get a period of cold, so it is often recommended that they be planted in fall or sprinkled on the snow. However, especially in areas with wet winters and cold springs, planting in mid-February yields better results.
Planting
Scatter the seeds on the ground and do not cover them, as sunlight is needed for germination. If your climate is dry, keep the seeds moist with a fine spray from the hose until they come up. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, thin out any crowded clumps.
Gathering Seeds
Poppy flowers last only a few days. After the petals drop, the poppy seed heads will begin to dry. Leave them on the plant until the stalks have turned beige and the slits at the top of the poppy pod have opened to release the seeds. Gather the heads and let them dry completely, then shake out the seeds.
Replanting
Many of the seeds will fall to the ground and plant themselves, but save some seeds to scatter again in spring, especially if the grocery-store seeds yield any unusual colors or forms that you wish to grow again.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
For unique interest in the home, look for the Fittonia nerve plant. When purchasing these plants, be aware it may also be called the mosaic plant or painted net leaf. Growing nerve plants is easy and so is nerve plant care.
Fittonia Nerve Houseplants
The nerve plant, or Fittonia argyroneura, from the Acanthaceae (Acanthus) family, is a tropically found plant with striking leaves of pink and green, white and green, or green and red. Foliage is primarily olive green with veining taking on the alternate hue. For specific color characteristics, look for other Fittonia nerve houseplant, such as F. argyroneura with silver white veins or F. pearcei, the carmine pink-veined beauty.
Named for its 19th century discoverers, the botanists Elizabeth and Sarah May Fitton, the Fittonia nerve plant does indeed flower. The blooms are insignificant reddish to white spikes and tend to blend in with the remainder of the foliage. The blooms of the nerve plant are rarely seen when it is grown indoors as a houseplant. Hailing from Peru and other areas of the South American rain forest, this colorful houseplant craves high humidity but not too much irrigation. This little beauty does well in terrariums, hanging baskets, dish gardens or even as a ground cover in the right climate. The foliage is low growing and trailing with oval-shaped leaves on rooting mat forming stems. To propagate the plant, these rooted stem pieces may be divided or tip cuttings may be taken to create new Fittonia nerve houseplants.
Nerve Plant Care
As the nerve plant originates in a tropical setting, it flourishes within a high humidity environment. Misting may be required to maintain humid-like conditions. Fittonia nerve plant likes well drained moist soil, but not too wet. Water moderately and let growing nerve plants dry out between waterings. Use room temperature water on the plant to avoid shock. Growing about 3 to 6 inches by 12 to 18 inches or longer, the Fittonia nerve plant tolerates bright light to shade conditions but will truly flourish with bright, indirect light. Low light exposure will cause these plants to revert to green, losing the veins vibrant splashes of color. Growing nerve plants should be placed in a warm area, avoiding drafts which will shock the plant just as water that is too cold or hot. Think rain forest conditions and treat your Fittonia nerve houseplants accordingly. Feed as recommended for tropical houseplants per the instructions of your fertilizer brand. The trailing nature of the plant can lead to a straggly appearance. Prune the tips of the nerve plant to create a bushier plant.
Nerve Plant Problems
Nerve plant problems are few; however, as mentioned above, avoid overwatering as this can lead to root rot. Xanthomonas leaf spot, which causes necropsy of the veins, and mosaic virus may also afflict the plant. Pests may include aphids, mealybugs and thrips.
Fittonia Nerve Houseplants
The nerve plant, or Fittonia argyroneura, from the Acanthaceae (Acanthus) family, is a tropically found plant with striking leaves of pink and green, white and green, or green and red. Foliage is primarily olive green with veining taking on the alternate hue. For specific color characteristics, look for other Fittonia nerve houseplant, such as F. argyroneura with silver white veins or F. pearcei, the carmine pink-veined beauty.
Named for its 19th century discoverers, the botanists Elizabeth and Sarah May Fitton, the Fittonia nerve plant does indeed flower. The blooms are insignificant reddish to white spikes and tend to blend in with the remainder of the foliage. The blooms of the nerve plant are rarely seen when it is grown indoors as a houseplant. Hailing from Peru and other areas of the South American rain forest, this colorful houseplant craves high humidity but not too much irrigation. This little beauty does well in terrariums, hanging baskets, dish gardens or even as a ground cover in the right climate. The foliage is low growing and trailing with oval-shaped leaves on rooting mat forming stems. To propagate the plant, these rooted stem pieces may be divided or tip cuttings may be taken to create new Fittonia nerve houseplants.
Nerve Plant Care
As the nerve plant originates in a tropical setting, it flourishes within a high humidity environment. Misting may be required to maintain humid-like conditions. Fittonia nerve plant likes well drained moist soil, but not too wet. Water moderately and let growing nerve plants dry out between waterings. Use room temperature water on the plant to avoid shock. Growing about 3 to 6 inches by 12 to 18 inches or longer, the Fittonia nerve plant tolerates bright light to shade conditions but will truly flourish with bright, indirect light. Low light exposure will cause these plants to revert to green, losing the veins vibrant splashes of color. Growing nerve plants should be placed in a warm area, avoiding drafts which will shock the plant just as water that is too cold or hot. Think rain forest conditions and treat your Fittonia nerve houseplants accordingly. Feed as recommended for tropical houseplants per the instructions of your fertilizer brand. The trailing nature of the plant can lead to a straggly appearance. Prune the tips of the nerve plant to create a bushier plant.
Nerve Plant Problems
Nerve plant problems are few; however, as mentioned above, avoid overwatering as this can lead to root rot. Xanthomonas leaf spot, which causes necropsy of the veins, and mosaic virus may also afflict the plant. Pests may include aphids, mealybugs and thrips.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Yikes! My houseplant is dropping leaves! Houseplant leaf drop isn’t always easy to diagnose, as there are a number of possible reasons for this worrisome problem. Read on to learn what to do when leaves are falling off houseplants. Before you get too upset about a houseplant dropping leaves, keep in mind that houseplant leaf drop may not even be a problem. Even healthy houseplants drop leaves from time to time – especially the lower leaves.
However, if leaves falling from houseplants aren’t replaced by healthy ones, consider the following possibilities:
Environmental changes: Many plants are extremely sensitive about changes in their environment, including drastic differences in temperature, light or irrigation. This often happens when a new plant is moved from a greenhouse environment to your home, when outdoor plants are moved indoors for the winter, or after a plant is repotted or divided. Sometimes, a plant may rebel when it’s moved to a different room. Often (but not always), houseplant leaf drop due to environmental changes is temporary and the plant will rebound.
Temperature: Often, excessive heat or cold drafts are to blame for a houseplant dropping leaves. Keep plants away from drafty doors and windows. Be careful of placing plants on windowsills, which may be too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. Keep plants away from fireplaces, air conditioners and heat vents.
Pests: Insects aren’t typically the most common reason for leaves falling form houseplants, but it still pays to take a close look at the leaves. Watch for scale insects, mealybugs and tiny spider mites, which are difficult to see with the naked eye. Although some houseplant pests can be removed with a toothpick or cotton swab, most are easily treated with insecticidal soap spray.
Fertility problems: If you notice leaves are turning yellow before they fall, the plant may be lacking certain nutrients. Fertilize regularly during spring and summer using a product formulated for indoor plants.
Water: Don’t jump to the conclusion that dry soil is to blame when leaves are falling off houseplants, as the problem may be due to either over- or under-watering. Although some indoor plants like consistently moist (but never soggy) soil, most plants shouldn’t be watered until the top of the potting mix feels slightly dry. Use lukewarm water, as very cold water may cause houseplant leaf drop, especially during the winter months.
Humidity: Certain plants are prone to leaf drop when the air is very dry. A humidity tray with a layer of wet pebbles is one effective way to rectify low humidity. It may also help to group plants together.
However, if leaves falling from houseplants aren’t replaced by healthy ones, consider the following possibilities:
Environmental changes: Many plants are extremely sensitive about changes in their environment, including drastic differences in temperature, light or irrigation. This often happens when a new plant is moved from a greenhouse environment to your home, when outdoor plants are moved indoors for the winter, or after a plant is repotted or divided. Sometimes, a plant may rebel when it’s moved to a different room. Often (but not always), houseplant leaf drop due to environmental changes is temporary and the plant will rebound.
Temperature: Often, excessive heat or cold drafts are to blame for a houseplant dropping leaves. Keep plants away from drafty doors and windows. Be careful of placing plants on windowsills, which may be too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. Keep plants away from fireplaces, air conditioners and heat vents.
Pests: Insects aren’t typically the most common reason for leaves falling form houseplants, but it still pays to take a close look at the leaves. Watch for scale insects, mealybugs and tiny spider mites, which are difficult to see with the naked eye. Although some houseplant pests can be removed with a toothpick or cotton swab, most are easily treated with insecticidal soap spray.
Fertility problems: If you notice leaves are turning yellow before they fall, the plant may be lacking certain nutrients. Fertilize regularly during spring and summer using a product formulated for indoor plants.
Water: Don’t jump to the conclusion that dry soil is to blame when leaves are falling off houseplants, as the problem may be due to either over- or under-watering. Although some indoor plants like consistently moist (but never soggy) soil, most plants shouldn’t be watered until the top of the potting mix feels slightly dry. Use lukewarm water, as very cold water may cause houseplant leaf drop, especially during the winter months.
Humidity: Certain plants are prone to leaf drop when the air is very dry. A humidity tray with a layer of wet pebbles is one effective way to rectify low humidity. It may also help to group plants together.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
If you’ve ever watched your favorite weeping fig drop its leaves like tears when the light changed a little, you may be ready to try banana leaf ficus tree (Ficus maclellandii sometimes labeled as F. binnendijkii). Banana leaf fig is much less temperamental than its cousin ficus species, and adapts more readily to changing illumination in your home. Read on for information about growing banana leaf ficus.
Ficus Banana Leaf Plants
Ficus is the Latin word for fig, and is also the genus name of about 800 fig species. Figs are woody trees, shrubs, or vines native to Asia, Australia, and Africa. Those species cultivated for home gardens or backyards either produce edible fruit or are grown for their ornamental value. Banana leaf ficus trees are shrubs or small trees with long, saber-shaped leaves. The leaves emerge red, but later turn dark green and become leathery. They droop gracefully from the tree, adding an exotic or tropical look to your home. Ficus banana leaf plants can be grown with one stem, multiple stems or even braided stems. The crown is open and irregular.
Growing Banana Leaf Ficus
Like the weeping fig, the banana leaf ficus tree grows into a small tree, up to 12 feet tall, and is usually grown as a houseplant. As a tropical fig, it can only grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 11. Growing banana leaf ficus plants successfully is mostly a matter of finding the correct location for the shrub. The banana leaf fig needs an indoor location with bright filtered light that is protected from drafts. Use well-drained soilless potting mix for growing banana leaf ficus plants. When it comes to banana leaf ficus care, your temptation may be to overwater the tree. However, you must resist. Keep the soil slightly moist and avoid overwatering. If you apply an inch of organic mulch, like wood chips, it helps keep that moisture in. Fertilizer is a part of banana leaf ficus care. Feed your ficus banana leaf plant with a general, water soluble fertilizer every other month in spring, summer and fall. Do not fertilize the plant in winter. You can prune the plant a little if you think it is necessary to shape it.
Ficus Banana Leaf Plants
Ficus is the Latin word for fig, and is also the genus name of about 800 fig species. Figs are woody trees, shrubs, or vines native to Asia, Australia, and Africa. Those species cultivated for home gardens or backyards either produce edible fruit or are grown for their ornamental value. Banana leaf ficus trees are shrubs or small trees with long, saber-shaped leaves. The leaves emerge red, but later turn dark green and become leathery. They droop gracefully from the tree, adding an exotic or tropical look to your home. Ficus banana leaf plants can be grown with one stem, multiple stems or even braided stems. The crown is open and irregular.
Growing Banana Leaf Ficus
Like the weeping fig, the banana leaf ficus tree grows into a small tree, up to 12 feet tall, and is usually grown as a houseplant. As a tropical fig, it can only grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 11. Growing banana leaf ficus plants successfully is mostly a matter of finding the correct location for the shrub. The banana leaf fig needs an indoor location with bright filtered light that is protected from drafts. Use well-drained soilless potting mix for growing banana leaf ficus plants. When it comes to banana leaf ficus care, your temptation may be to overwater the tree. However, you must resist. Keep the soil slightly moist and avoid overwatering. If you apply an inch of organic mulch, like wood chips, it helps keep that moisture in. Fertilizer is a part of banana leaf ficus care. Feed your ficus banana leaf plant with a general, water soluble fertilizer every other month in spring, summer and fall. Do not fertilize the plant in winter. You can prune the plant a little if you think it is necessary to shape it.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
It's alarming when your rose bushes (Rosa spp.) develop ragged-looking leaves. Leaf-chewing insects can affect not only the appearance but the health of the rose. Be watchful to find damage early and to locate the responsible insect, looking underneath leaves and checking at different times. After pest identification, avoid pesticides for control if possible, since beneficial insects shelter in rose foliage. Hybrid tea roses (Rosa x hybrida) grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, although cultivars can vary.
Red roses.
Leafcutter bees make conspicuous holes in rose leaves. About honeybee size, nonaggressive leafcutter bees are gray and fast-flying. A female bee lands on a leaf edge, slices off a semicircular leaf piece, rolls it up and flies off with it. Leaf pieces line her nest in a hollow stem. Leafcutter bees are valuable pollinators and shouldn't be harmed. If your roses are in danger of defoliation, exclude the bees with cheesecloth or tulle draped over the rose bushes.
Sawfly Larvae
Commonly called rose slugs, these pests are immature forms of a wasp relative that doesn't sting. One species looks wet and shiny, while others resemble green caterpillars. Young larvae skeletonize leaves, leaving veins behind as they eat the soft tissues. Older larvae eat holes in the leaves. Look for them on leaf undersides mostly in the spring. Pick them off or knock them loose with a stick or a stream of water. They can't climb back onto the plant.
Moth Larvae
Although caterpillars aren't common pests of roses, some moth larvae eat rose leaves, including the eastern tent caterpillar, corn earworm, inchworms, the stinging rose caterpillar and the puss caterpillar. You can hand-pick caterpillars except for the stinging rose caterpillar and the puss caterpillar, which have toxic hairs and shouldn't be handled. Leafroller caterpillars eat young rose leaves and shelter in rolled-up older leaves fastened together with silk. Natural parasites and predators usually keep leafrollers in check.
Beetle Types
In addition to eating leaves, beetles also eat rose flowers. The rose chafer, a tan beetle about 3/8-inch long, feeds for about three to four weeks in spring. Pick beetles off the foliage or temporarily put tulle over valued rose bushes. The fuller rose beetle eats at night. This brown wingless weevil chews jagged holes and generally doesn't do lasting harm. Put a 6-inch-wide band of sticky tape around the rose's trunk to keep them from the leaves. Colored metallic copper and green, 1/2-inch-long Japanese beetles can be plentiful in summer. Handpick them, dropping them into soapy water to drown. Japanese beetle traps can lower populations, but they should be at least 50 feet away from the roses.
Low-Toxicity Treatment
For heavy infestations of all these pests except for leafcutter bees, try a control agent with low biotoxicity such as neem oil, also called azadiractin. Wear gloves, long pants, long sleeves and shoes and socks. Mix 2 tablespoons of 70 percent neem oil with a gallon of water. Spray it on leaves and stems, including leaf undersides, wetting all surfaces thoroughly. Shake the container frequently to mix the spray, and use freshly prepared neem oil. Don't spray heat-stressed plants or young growth. Apply during the early morning or late evening every seven days until symptoms disappear, and then apply every 14 days.
Red roses.
Leafcutter bees make conspicuous holes in rose leaves. About honeybee size, nonaggressive leafcutter bees are gray and fast-flying. A female bee lands on a leaf edge, slices off a semicircular leaf piece, rolls it up and flies off with it. Leaf pieces line her nest in a hollow stem. Leafcutter bees are valuable pollinators and shouldn't be harmed. If your roses are in danger of defoliation, exclude the bees with cheesecloth or tulle draped over the rose bushes.
Sawfly Larvae
Commonly called rose slugs, these pests are immature forms of a wasp relative that doesn't sting. One species looks wet and shiny, while others resemble green caterpillars. Young larvae skeletonize leaves, leaving veins behind as they eat the soft tissues. Older larvae eat holes in the leaves. Look for them on leaf undersides mostly in the spring. Pick them off or knock them loose with a stick or a stream of water. They can't climb back onto the plant.
Moth Larvae
Although caterpillars aren't common pests of roses, some moth larvae eat rose leaves, including the eastern tent caterpillar, corn earworm, inchworms, the stinging rose caterpillar and the puss caterpillar. You can hand-pick caterpillars except for the stinging rose caterpillar and the puss caterpillar, which have toxic hairs and shouldn't be handled. Leafroller caterpillars eat young rose leaves and shelter in rolled-up older leaves fastened together with silk. Natural parasites and predators usually keep leafrollers in check.
Beetle Types
In addition to eating leaves, beetles also eat rose flowers. The rose chafer, a tan beetle about 3/8-inch long, feeds for about three to four weeks in spring. Pick beetles off the foliage or temporarily put tulle over valued rose bushes. The fuller rose beetle eats at night. This brown wingless weevil chews jagged holes and generally doesn't do lasting harm. Put a 6-inch-wide band of sticky tape around the rose's trunk to keep them from the leaves. Colored metallic copper and green, 1/2-inch-long Japanese beetles can be plentiful in summer. Handpick them, dropping them into soapy water to drown. Japanese beetle traps can lower populations, but they should be at least 50 feet away from the roses.
Low-Toxicity Treatment
For heavy infestations of all these pests except for leafcutter bees, try a control agent with low biotoxicity such as neem oil, also called azadiractin. Wear gloves, long pants, long sleeves and shoes and socks. Mix 2 tablespoons of 70 percent neem oil with a gallon of water. Spray it on leaves and stems, including leaf undersides, wetting all surfaces thoroughly. Shake the container frequently to mix the spray, and use freshly prepared neem oil. Don't spray heat-stressed plants or young growth. Apply during the early morning or late evening every seven days until symptoms disappear, and then apply every 14 days.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Your brilliant indoor croton plant, the one you admire and prize, is now dropping leaves like crazy. Don’t panic. Leaf drop on croton plants can be expected any time the plant is stressed or out of balance. You just need to get to know your croton and how to give croton what it needs to thrive. Read on to learn more about why croton leaves fall off.
Why is My Croton Dropping Leaves?
Change can be difficult for a croton plant. A croton plant dropping leaves is often a new plant’s response to being transplanted or transported from the greenhouse to your home. It’s natural for a croton to drop leaves as it adjusts to environmental changes. Once settled, in three or four weeks, your plant will begin to produce new growth. If you haven’t changed the plant’s location recently and your croton leaves fall off, then it’s time to look at other possibilities. Heat and humidity – Croton plants are tropicals, meaning they thrive in warm and humid conditions. If your croton’s leaves fall off, it could be that it’s exposed to cold or hot extremes such as open doors or air ducts. A humidifier or a regular misting with distilled water will also help your croton feel at home. Light – Croton leaf drop and a lack of fiery color can be caused by insufficient sunlight. There are more than 750 varieties of croton plant, some needing more light than others. In general, the more variegated the plant, the more light it craves.
Water – The watering schedule for your other houseplants may not be suitable for your croton. Overwatering can damage the roots and cause croton leaf drop. When the soil on top feels dry, water until the overflow begins to pool in the tray. To prevent root rot, use a pebbled tray or pour off any pooled water after 30 minutes. Underwatering can also cause leaf drop on croton plants. If you’re watering and misting consistently and your croton still seems dry, consider transplanting in fresh, high-quality potting soil that includes peat moss to help retain moisture. Diseases and pests – If you think you’ve taken care of every possible environmental reason your croton plant is dropping leaves, look again. Inspect underneath the leaves for signs of disease or insect pests and treat accordingly.
Here’s the best news: crotons are tough. Even if your croton is brown and leafless, it doesn’t mean that your lovely plant is gone forever. Gently scratch the main stem. If the tissue underneath is still green, your plant is alive and may recover. Continue to care for your plant’s watering and environmental needs. In several weeks, it’s quite likely that your patience and care will be rewarded with the first of new, bright leaves.
Why is My Croton Dropping Leaves?
Change can be difficult for a croton plant. A croton plant dropping leaves is often a new plant’s response to being transplanted or transported from the greenhouse to your home. It’s natural for a croton to drop leaves as it adjusts to environmental changes. Once settled, in three or four weeks, your plant will begin to produce new growth. If you haven’t changed the plant’s location recently and your croton leaves fall off, then it’s time to look at other possibilities. Heat and humidity – Croton plants are tropicals, meaning they thrive in warm and humid conditions. If your croton’s leaves fall off, it could be that it’s exposed to cold or hot extremes such as open doors or air ducts. A humidifier or a regular misting with distilled water will also help your croton feel at home. Light – Croton leaf drop and a lack of fiery color can be caused by insufficient sunlight. There are more than 750 varieties of croton plant, some needing more light than others. In general, the more variegated the plant, the more light it craves.
Water – The watering schedule for your other houseplants may not be suitable for your croton. Overwatering can damage the roots and cause croton leaf drop. When the soil on top feels dry, water until the overflow begins to pool in the tray. To prevent root rot, use a pebbled tray or pour off any pooled water after 30 minutes. Underwatering can also cause leaf drop on croton plants. If you’re watering and misting consistently and your croton still seems dry, consider transplanting in fresh, high-quality potting soil that includes peat moss to help retain moisture. Diseases and pests – If you think you’ve taken care of every possible environmental reason your croton plant is dropping leaves, look again. Inspect underneath the leaves for signs of disease or insect pests and treat accordingly.
Here’s the best news: crotons are tough. Even if your croton is brown and leafless, it doesn’t mean that your lovely plant is gone forever. Gently scratch the main stem. If the tissue underneath is still green, your plant is alive and may recover. Continue to care for your plant’s watering and environmental needs. In several weeks, it’s quite likely that your patience and care will be rewarded with the first of new, bright leaves.
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