文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
Sago palms (Cycas revoluta) are desirable tropical plants that grow outdoors in climates that receive no frost and as houseplants and bonsai specimens in cooler regions. Although they are not true palms and are more closely related to pine trees, sago palms look like palms and serve as interesting landscape plants. The 250 species of plants in the Cycad plant family are some of the most ancient seed-producing plant species. When the sago palm reproduces, it forms young plants, called offshoots or "pups" at its base.
Step 1
Harvest pups in late winter or early spring when plants are in their dormant phase. If your mature sago palm has begun to produce new leaves, wait until the following winter before you cut away any young plants from the base.
Step 2
Snap off small pups with your gloved hands if possible. If a pup fails to break off the main plant easily, use a knife or trowel to cut it, taking care not to injure the mother plant. Use a sharp shooter shovel to remove large pups.
Step 3
Snip off all existing leaves from pups after you separate them from the mother plant. Also snip off any existing roots.
Step 4
Rinse off all soil from pups by placing them in a tub of water. Use a soft brush to remove all foreign matter.
Step 5
Place cleaned, stripped pups in a cool, dry place for one week to allow the area where you cut it from the mother plant to dry. Pups will survive several months in a cool, dry place.
Step 6
Make a potting mix from perlite, peat moss and coarse river sand. Plant pups in pots with drainage holes that are only slightly larger than their diameter. Leave the top half of each pup above the soil surface, then water until water runs from the drainage hole(s). Allow the soil to dry before you water your pup again. Keep potted pups in a warm, well-lighted area.
Step 1
Harvest pups in late winter or early spring when plants are in their dormant phase. If your mature sago palm has begun to produce new leaves, wait until the following winter before you cut away any young plants from the base.
Step 2
Snap off small pups with your gloved hands if possible. If a pup fails to break off the main plant easily, use a knife or trowel to cut it, taking care not to injure the mother plant. Use a sharp shooter shovel to remove large pups.
Step 3
Snip off all existing leaves from pups after you separate them from the mother plant. Also snip off any existing roots.
Step 4
Rinse off all soil from pups by placing them in a tub of water. Use a soft brush to remove all foreign matter.
Step 5
Place cleaned, stripped pups in a cool, dry place for one week to allow the area where you cut it from the mother plant to dry. Pups will survive several months in a cool, dry place.
Step 6
Make a potting mix from perlite, peat moss and coarse river sand. Plant pups in pots with drainage holes that are only slightly larger than their diameter. Leave the top half of each pup above the soil surface, then water until water runs from the drainage hole(s). Allow the soil to dry before you water your pup again. Keep potted pups in a warm, well-lighted area.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Many species of hibiscus plants or shrubs exist, some of which are perennial or hardy and others are tropical hibiscuses that are grown as annuals or as houseplants in nontropical hardiness zones where winters consist of several months of subfreezing temperatures. Hibiscuses are very fast-growing plants, so splitting or dividing them at the root is an effective way to promote new and healthier growth and provide plants with more room to spread out.
Hibiscus Types
Tropical hibiscuses are characterized by their dark-green, almost glossy leaf color and flowers in bright colors such as orange, yellow and red. These hibiscuses are not hardy in places where freezes last longer than a few hours. Hardy or perennial hibiscuses tolerate freezing temperatures, and with the exception of rose of Sharon, a variety of hibiscus that flowers off the previous year's woody growth, these plants die down to the ground at winter.
Why Divide Hibiscuses?
Hibiscuses are fast-growing shrubs known for their deep and extensive root systems. Typical indicators that plants need dividing include sparse foliage at the bottom of plants, bare spots in the center and fewer blooms and smaller flowers. These are indications that the massive root ball is not able to provide sufficient nourishment to all parts of the plant.
When to Divide
The general rule regarding the division of perennials is that perennials that bloom in spring and summer are divided in fall, and perennials that bloom in fall are divided in spring. Most perennials require dividing every three to five years. Hibiscuses are a bit different because in warmer climates, hardy hibiscuses can bloom from spring until frost, and in tropical areas, tropical hibiscuses (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) may bloom year-round. Ideally, you should not divide plants when they are flowering. Most perennial hardy hibiscuses generate new growth in spring, so the best time to divide them is early in spring just after the first new growth emerges. Because rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) plants develop new growth and bloom off the previous year's woody stems, divide these plants in fall once they finish blooming and begin to enter dormancy. Divide tropical hibiscuses when they are not blooming or when dormant when grown as houseplants.
How to Divide
To divide hibiscuses planted in the ground, dig deep into the ground so you can remove the entire root ball from the planting hole. Extensive root systems will likely render container-grown plants root or pot bound. Tap the bottom of the pot to free the root ball from the pot. Once the plants are out of the ground or container, spray the root ball with water to remove as much soil as possible. Use a sharp pruning knife or saw to cut the root ball into smaller divisions. Plant the newly divided plant sections immediately and water deeply. Continue to water regularly to ensure that new divisions establish themselves.
Hibiscus Types
Tropical hibiscuses are characterized by their dark-green, almost glossy leaf color and flowers in bright colors such as orange, yellow and red. These hibiscuses are not hardy in places where freezes last longer than a few hours. Hardy or perennial hibiscuses tolerate freezing temperatures, and with the exception of rose of Sharon, a variety of hibiscus that flowers off the previous year's woody growth, these plants die down to the ground at winter.
Why Divide Hibiscuses?
Hibiscuses are fast-growing shrubs known for their deep and extensive root systems. Typical indicators that plants need dividing include sparse foliage at the bottom of plants, bare spots in the center and fewer blooms and smaller flowers. These are indications that the massive root ball is not able to provide sufficient nourishment to all parts of the plant.
When to Divide
The general rule regarding the division of perennials is that perennials that bloom in spring and summer are divided in fall, and perennials that bloom in fall are divided in spring. Most perennials require dividing every three to five years. Hibiscuses are a bit different because in warmer climates, hardy hibiscuses can bloom from spring until frost, and in tropical areas, tropical hibiscuses (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) may bloom year-round. Ideally, you should not divide plants when they are flowering. Most perennial hardy hibiscuses generate new growth in spring, so the best time to divide them is early in spring just after the first new growth emerges. Because rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) plants develop new growth and bloom off the previous year's woody stems, divide these plants in fall once they finish blooming and begin to enter dormancy. Divide tropical hibiscuses when they are not blooming or when dormant when grown as houseplants.
How to Divide
To divide hibiscuses planted in the ground, dig deep into the ground so you can remove the entire root ball from the planting hole. Extensive root systems will likely render container-grown plants root or pot bound. Tap the bottom of the pot to free the root ball from the pot. Once the plants are out of the ground or container, spray the root ball with water to remove as much soil as possible. Use a sharp pruning knife or saw to cut the root ball into smaller divisions. Plant the newly divided plant sections immediately and water deeply. Continue to water regularly to ensure that new divisions establish themselves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月11日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy aloe and echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance. Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Avoid overwatering, but don’t let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer:Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to include as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it in a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings, as they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water, since they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these little decorative plants can be grown in interesting containers such as teacups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance. Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Avoid overwatering, but don’t let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer:Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to include as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it in a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings, as they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water, since they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these little decorative plants can be grown in interesting containers such as teacups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月25日
6.Kalanchoe
So many of us only know these Kalanchoe as houseplants, forced into bloom at the florists. There are several hybrids with different forms, but all have flowers in clear, bright colors. Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is one of the most readily available. It can do quite well indoors but has the annoying habit of growing long and gangly and not wanting to flower again. When that happens,take a few cuttings and start over. It is frost tender.
7.Ice Plants (Lampranthus)
There are about 100 species of Lampranthus, succulents plants from South Africa. They have bright colored daisy-like flowers. The best known is the Ice Plant, Lampranthus multiradiatus. These look best massed and where they are hardy, they make a great ground cover or turf alternative, although I wouldn't walk on them. They are very forgiving. If you forget to water them, they just kept on blooming.
8.Sedum (stonecrop)
The tall Sedums, like ‛Autumn Joy' are wonderful showy, drought tolerant plants. Most bloom in late summer but look great for weeks as their broccoli-like flowers fill out. Even after blooming, the flowers just deepen in color and continue putting on a show. The creeping and trailing varieties have long been used in rock gardens and as ground covers. And they will cover ground very quickly. They have star-shaped blooms during the summer and are less attractive to deer than the tall varieties. You may see rabbits munching on them, though, probably for the water. Many varieties are extremely cold hardy.
9.Sempervivum
Hen and chicks have made a huge comeback. I remember them in my grandmother's garden and thought they were interesting, but not real flowers. I have become a total convert and enjoy spotting them tucked in throughout other's gardens.
Sempervivums are cold hardy, but a little touchy about long, hot, dry summers. They are perfect for all kinds of containers, from hypertufa troughs to strawberry jars.
These look a lot like Echeverias, but Sempervivum have pointed leaves that are a little thinner than Echeveria and they are more spherical.
10.Senecio
This is an odd group of plants, with bizarre shapes. The Candle Plants, Senecio articulatus, looks more like fingers, to me. Senecio talinoides var.mandraliscae, Blue Fingers, is icy blue-gray and these fingers are pointed. Then there's the perfectly charming Golden Groundsel, Senecio aureus, a ground cover with bright yellow, daisy-like flowers atop base rosettes. It's also hardy down to USDA Zone 4. Senecio rowleyanus (String of Beads or String of Pearls) looks more like a string of peas, but whatever it's called, it's striking.
So many of us only know these Kalanchoe as houseplants, forced into bloom at the florists. There are several hybrids with different forms, but all have flowers in clear, bright colors. Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is one of the most readily available. It can do quite well indoors but has the annoying habit of growing long and gangly and not wanting to flower again. When that happens,take a few cuttings and start over. It is frost tender.
7.Ice Plants (Lampranthus)
There are about 100 species of Lampranthus, succulents plants from South Africa. They have bright colored daisy-like flowers. The best known is the Ice Plant, Lampranthus multiradiatus. These look best massed and where they are hardy, they make a great ground cover or turf alternative, although I wouldn't walk on them. They are very forgiving. If you forget to water them, they just kept on blooming.
8.Sedum (stonecrop)
The tall Sedums, like ‛Autumn Joy' are wonderful showy, drought tolerant plants. Most bloom in late summer but look great for weeks as their broccoli-like flowers fill out. Even after blooming, the flowers just deepen in color and continue putting on a show. The creeping and trailing varieties have long been used in rock gardens and as ground covers. And they will cover ground very quickly. They have star-shaped blooms during the summer and are less attractive to deer than the tall varieties. You may see rabbits munching on them, though, probably for the water. Many varieties are extremely cold hardy.
9.Sempervivum
Hen and chicks have made a huge comeback. I remember them in my grandmother's garden and thought they were interesting, but not real flowers. I have become a total convert and enjoy spotting them tucked in throughout other's gardens.
Sempervivums are cold hardy, but a little touchy about long, hot, dry summers. They are perfect for all kinds of containers, from hypertufa troughs to strawberry jars.
These look a lot like Echeverias, but Sempervivum have pointed leaves that are a little thinner than Echeveria and they are more spherical.
10.Senecio
This is an odd group of plants, with bizarre shapes. The Candle Plants, Senecio articulatus, looks more like fingers, to me. Senecio talinoides var.mandraliscae, Blue Fingers, is icy blue-gray and these fingers are pointed. Then there's the perfectly charming Golden Groundsel, Senecio aureus, a ground cover with bright yellow, daisy-like flowers atop base rosettes. It's also hardy down to USDA Zone 4. Senecio rowleyanus (String of Beads or String of Pearls) looks more like a string of peas, but whatever it's called, it's striking.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月07日
Amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) produce flamboyant blooms over outsize bulbs. The tropical plants grow outdoors only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but they also make a splash as houseplants where they brighten winter holidays. How many times they'll bloom indoors or how long they'll last in the garden depends on how you treat them after they're finished blooming.
The Perennial Bulb
Like other bulbs, the amaryllis nurtures next year's plant and bloom as this year's flowers fade. It is also perennial, which means that it lives for three years or longer. How many years your amaryllis lives depends on its ability to gather nutrients, a process fueled by photosynthesis in its leaves.
Unlike many bulbs, amaryllis leaves follow flowers and persist for several months after the plant has bloomed in the spring. Whether outdoors or in a container, do not cut the amaryllis plant's long, straplike leaves until they whither. In this way, you've given the perennial bulb another year of life.
Indoor Bulbs
Gift amaryllis bulbs typically arrive eight to 10 weeks before the winter holidays with instructions to begin watering them immediately. Depending on the age of the bulb, it will produce one or more scapes typically topped by three trumpet-shaped flowers in shades of red, pink, white or bicolor combinations. Indoors, with bright light and moderate temperatures, each scape of flowers lasts up to a month. Plants kept in a cool room, around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, bloom longest.
In the Garden
Plant amaryllis bulbs in the garden in September or October in USDA zones 8 through 10. Use purchased bulbs or gift bulbs that have faded. Plant the bulbs in organic, well-draining soil with the wide side down so that the narrow neck sits above the soil.
Beginning when scapes begin growing in February or March, fertilize with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 6-12-12. Work 1 to 1.5 pounds into the soil for every 100-foot of row or for 100 square feet of bed. Fertilize when the bulbs break dormancy, when scapes reach 6 to 8 inches tall and again after the flowers fade in April. Remove faded flower scapes to stop energy-robbing seed formation.
Bulbs and Dormancy
Whether indoors or out, the secret to long-lived amaryllis lies in their ability to build new embryos while their leaves fade throughout the summer. Dormancy allows them to rest before entering the "home stretch" of bloom. After this period of rapid growth, bulbs need a period of 2 to 3 months of dormancy. Stop watering plants and put potted bulbs in a cool, dry basement or plant them with garden bulbs in fall.
Begin watering plants again as they emerge from dormancy in February or March and keep the soil evenly moist as bulbs bloom. Within two to three years, bulbs may produce offsets -- bulblets that, when removed during dormancy and planted in pots or garden, may produce flowers within three to four years, prolonging the bloom of your amaryllis collection.
The Perennial Bulb
Like other bulbs, the amaryllis nurtures next year's plant and bloom as this year's flowers fade. It is also perennial, which means that it lives for three years or longer. How many years your amaryllis lives depends on its ability to gather nutrients, a process fueled by photosynthesis in its leaves.
Unlike many bulbs, amaryllis leaves follow flowers and persist for several months after the plant has bloomed in the spring. Whether outdoors or in a container, do not cut the amaryllis plant's long, straplike leaves until they whither. In this way, you've given the perennial bulb another year of life.
Indoor Bulbs
Gift amaryllis bulbs typically arrive eight to 10 weeks before the winter holidays with instructions to begin watering them immediately. Depending on the age of the bulb, it will produce one or more scapes typically topped by three trumpet-shaped flowers in shades of red, pink, white or bicolor combinations. Indoors, with bright light and moderate temperatures, each scape of flowers lasts up to a month. Plants kept in a cool room, around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, bloom longest.
In the Garden
Plant amaryllis bulbs in the garden in September or October in USDA zones 8 through 10. Use purchased bulbs or gift bulbs that have faded. Plant the bulbs in organic, well-draining soil with the wide side down so that the narrow neck sits above the soil.
Beginning when scapes begin growing in February or March, fertilize with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 6-12-12. Work 1 to 1.5 pounds into the soil for every 100-foot of row or for 100 square feet of bed. Fertilize when the bulbs break dormancy, when scapes reach 6 to 8 inches tall and again after the flowers fade in April. Remove faded flower scapes to stop energy-robbing seed formation.
Bulbs and Dormancy
Whether indoors or out, the secret to long-lived amaryllis lies in their ability to build new embryos while their leaves fade throughout the summer. Dormancy allows them to rest before entering the "home stretch" of bloom. After this period of rapid growth, bulbs need a period of 2 to 3 months of dormancy. Stop watering plants and put potted bulbs in a cool, dry basement or plant them with garden bulbs in fall.
Begin watering plants again as they emerge from dormancy in February or March and keep the soil evenly moist as bulbs bloom. Within two to three years, bulbs may produce offsets -- bulblets that, when removed during dormancy and planted in pots or garden, may produce flowers within three to four years, prolonging the bloom of your amaryllis collection.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月15日
Hoyas are popular houseplants with long trailing stems, waxy leaves and fragrant flowers. Some varieties of hoyas bloom in spring and summer, some flower in fall and winter, and some bloom sporadically throughout the year. Although there are between 300 and 400 varieties, the wax plant (Hoya carnosa) is most commonly grown.
Description
Hoyas are slow growing with long woody stems. All hoyas have thick fleshy leaves with a waxy coating, but the color, shape and size vary depending on the variety. Clusters of creamy white to pink star-shaped flowers hang from the plant; some people find the fragrance of the blooms disagreeable. Hoyas contain milky sap that can stain clothes, furniture or walls.
Culture
Grow hoyas outside in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b and 11 in light shade. In colder zones, grow hoyas inside in a window with bright light. Hoyas do not tolerate direct sun or temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. During the growing season water thoroughly, allowing the top third of the soil in the container to completely dry out. Water sparingly in the winter. Mist plants with a spray bottle to maintain 40 percent to 60 percent humidity.
Flowering
Some hoyas bloom during their first year, while others do not flower until they are larger or more mature. New flowers grow from the bases of old flowers, which are called bloom spurs. Pruning the spurs off will reduce or delay flowering. If a hoya is not blooming, try moving it to an area with more light and apply a fertilizer with more phosphorus (the middle number on the label). Hoyas bloom better when they are root bound. If the flowers turn brown and mushy, or yellow and spongy, the soil is too wet. If the blooms dry up and fall off the plant, the soil has dried out too much between waterings. Cool drafts cause the flowers to drop off soon after they open.
Problems
Mealy bugs, small cottony insects, infest the stems and the undersides of the leaves on hoyas. Spray plants with a horticultural soap mixture to control mealy bugs. Nematodes can be a problem when hoyas are grown in the ground outside. Grow hoyas in containers to avoid damage from nematodes. Root rot is caused by soil that is too wet and soggy. Use a potting mixture that drains freely and do not overwater.
Description
Hoyas are slow growing with long woody stems. All hoyas have thick fleshy leaves with a waxy coating, but the color, shape and size vary depending on the variety. Clusters of creamy white to pink star-shaped flowers hang from the plant; some people find the fragrance of the blooms disagreeable. Hoyas contain milky sap that can stain clothes, furniture or walls.
Culture
Grow hoyas outside in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b and 11 in light shade. In colder zones, grow hoyas inside in a window with bright light. Hoyas do not tolerate direct sun or temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. During the growing season water thoroughly, allowing the top third of the soil in the container to completely dry out. Water sparingly in the winter. Mist plants with a spray bottle to maintain 40 percent to 60 percent humidity.
Flowering
Some hoyas bloom during their first year, while others do not flower until they are larger or more mature. New flowers grow from the bases of old flowers, which are called bloom spurs. Pruning the spurs off will reduce or delay flowering. If a hoya is not blooming, try moving it to an area with more light and apply a fertilizer with more phosphorus (the middle number on the label). Hoyas bloom better when they are root bound. If the flowers turn brown and mushy, or yellow and spongy, the soil is too wet. If the blooms dry up and fall off the plant, the soil has dried out too much between waterings. Cool drafts cause the flowers to drop off soon after they open.
Problems
Mealy bugs, small cottony insects, infest the stems and the undersides of the leaves on hoyas. Spray plants with a horticultural soap mixture to control mealy bugs. Nematodes can be a problem when hoyas are grown in the ground outside. Grow hoyas in containers to avoid damage from nematodes. Root rot is caused by soil that is too wet and soggy. Use a potting mixture that drains freely and do not overwater.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月01日
Crassula ovata, commonly known as Jade Plant is a succulent plant, native to South Africa and it is one of the most popular houseplants grown worldwide.
But Jade Plant is more than just a pretty plant. In South Africa it is used by the natives as a treatment for nausea and as a vermifuge, to treat epilepsy, diarrhea, cuts, sore, warts, corns, and to purge the intestines.
For cuts and sores the leaves have to be cut in half and put on the sore and put a plaster over it. Redress morning and afternoon. It help for the pain as well. Like a local anesthetic.
Slice a leaf in half and attach the moist inside to the wart for a few hours, or overnight. The unsightly growth should fall off with just three applications.
In Africa leaves are boiled in milk and consumed to stop diarrhea.
But Jade Plant is more than just a pretty plant. In South Africa it is used by the natives as a treatment for nausea and as a vermifuge, to treat epilepsy, diarrhea, cuts, sore, warts, corns, and to purge the intestines.
For cuts and sores the leaves have to be cut in half and put on the sore and put a plaster over it. Redress morning and afternoon. It help for the pain as well. Like a local anesthetic.
Slice a leaf in half and attach the moist inside to the wart for a few hours, or overnight. The unsightly growth should fall off with just three applications.
In Africa leaves are boiled in milk and consumed to stop diarrhea.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
The genus Saintpaulia, also known as African Violets are one of the world’s most popular houseplants, and for good reason. These compact, low-growing plants flower several times a year, and they are available in a multitude of leaf forms and colors. Don’t be put off by their reputation for difficulty: providing you follow a few simple rules, African Violets should thrive indoors. With a little experience, it’s possible to keep them in flower nearly all year round and grow them to the size of dinner plates.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, but not direct sunlight. They are commonly grown under fluorescent lights placed 12 to 15 inches (30 to 38 cm) above the leaves.
Water: Keep soil moist with warm water and strive for high humidity. Do not allow water to contact the leaves to prevent damage, other than light misting. Water from below, or push the water spout into the soil when watering. Don’t allow the plant to sit in water.
Temperature: Do not allow to fall below about 60ºF (15ºC). They thrive at 70ºF (21ºC).
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential. Poor drainage can cause root rot, in which the plant becomes waterlogged and its leaves begin to fall, so make sure that the plant is never allowed to be exposed to standing water for an extended period of time.
Fertilizer: Feed with a African Violet fertilizer every other week.
Repotting
African Violets do better when they are slightly underpotted. Repot only when necessary into a pot that is one size up. To repot these plants, simply grab the plant as a whole, lift it, and replace it into a larger container, making sure not to damage their root systems in the process. Common signs that a plant is stressed out and needs to be repotted include falling leaves and overcrowding, as well as roots that protrude from the surface of the soil. Keep an eye out and repot if you think it’ll help.
Propagation
African Violets can be propagated from leaf cuttings or from offsets. Adult plants occasionally produce small plantlets or shoots from the side. Remove these and pot up independently. Removing them also encourages better blooms on the parent plant.
Grower’s Tips
African Violets will thrive in bright, warm and humid conditions. Keep water from touching their leaves or it will leave brown spots. Remove dead flowers and leaves as soon as you seen them to encourage a healthier plant. Regularly check the soil and plant to make sure there is no accumulation of dead leaves. This will encourage rot. Growing these houseplants is really a matter of balance; you have to make sure that the different factors that go into their cultivation all are weighted against each other. They should be kept in moist enough conditions that they don’t dry out, yet still exposed to a fresh breeze to avoid letting them get too stuffy, and exposed to sunlight without damaging their leaf tips. Don’t be discouraged if your African Violets suffer some damage — it’s all part of the process.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, but not direct sunlight. They are commonly grown under fluorescent lights placed 12 to 15 inches (30 to 38 cm) above the leaves.
Water: Keep soil moist with warm water and strive for high humidity. Do not allow water to contact the leaves to prevent damage, other than light misting. Water from below, or push the water spout into the soil when watering. Don’t allow the plant to sit in water.
Temperature: Do not allow to fall below about 60ºF (15ºC). They thrive at 70ºF (21ºC).
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential. Poor drainage can cause root rot, in which the plant becomes waterlogged and its leaves begin to fall, so make sure that the plant is never allowed to be exposed to standing water for an extended period of time.
Fertilizer: Feed with a African Violet fertilizer every other week.
Repotting
African Violets do better when they are slightly underpotted. Repot only when necessary into a pot that is one size up. To repot these plants, simply grab the plant as a whole, lift it, and replace it into a larger container, making sure not to damage their root systems in the process. Common signs that a plant is stressed out and needs to be repotted include falling leaves and overcrowding, as well as roots that protrude from the surface of the soil. Keep an eye out and repot if you think it’ll help.
Propagation
African Violets can be propagated from leaf cuttings or from offsets. Adult plants occasionally produce small plantlets or shoots from the side. Remove these and pot up independently. Removing them also encourages better blooms on the parent plant.
Grower’s Tips
African Violets will thrive in bright, warm and humid conditions. Keep water from touching their leaves or it will leave brown spots. Remove dead flowers and leaves as soon as you seen them to encourage a healthier plant. Regularly check the soil and plant to make sure there is no accumulation of dead leaves. This will encourage rot. Growing these houseplants is really a matter of balance; you have to make sure that the different factors that go into their cultivation all are weighted against each other. They should be kept in moist enough conditions that they don’t dry out, yet still exposed to a fresh breeze to avoid letting them get too stuffy, and exposed to sunlight without damaging their leaf tips. Don’t be discouraged if your African Violets suffer some damage — it’s all part of the process.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Are you really good at killing your houseplants? It’s a talent that, unfortunately, many possess. Plants can be temperamental—it’s true. But there are a few things you might be doing to contribute to their demise. Have you tried everything you can to keep them alive? You may think you have…but here is a list of 12 ways you could be killing your houseplants.
1. Not reading care instructions
Just like people, no two plants are the same. The number-one most critical rule we can stress when you receive your plant is: read the care instructions included. Even plants that you buy at a nursery should come with instructions that, when followed precisely, can prevent you from becoming a plant killer.
2. Over watering
People often think that more water is better. But all plants have different needs when it comes to watering—which can vary based on the time of year, amount of light and temperature. The easiest solution is to understand the moisture level of your plant. Some plants like to dry out completely between waterings, others need to be kept moist—so the safest bet is to check the care instructions. Stick your finger into the dirt about an inch (2.5 cm) deep to feel whether it’s dry or moist.
When excess water collects at the bottom of the plant’s container, it causes root rot, which can kill your indoor plant. The best way to avoid this is to remove the plastic grower pot from inside the decorative pot, water it in the sink and then let it drain completely before replacing it back in its decorative outer pot.
3. Underwatering
What’s just as harmful to your plant as overwatering? You guessed it: underwatering. When in doubt, check the care instructions to learn how often to water your particular plant species. Again, stick your finger in the soil to see if it feels dry. Some plants, like the Peace Lily, are very expressive—the leaves will droop when it is in need of a good watering, and will perk right back up again once its thirst is quenched. Water the soil thoroughly each time, making sure it drains from the holes at the bottom of your pot.
4. Too much/too little light
All plants need light at varying degrees. Plants will tell you if they’re not getting the right amount of light. The leaves could change color or turn brown if they are getting too much light and essentially become sunburned. On the flip side, if you notice your plant “craning its neck” toward the light, or producing very small, pale leaves, it wants more. Most plants do well with bright, filtered light—but always follow the care instructions.
5. Extreme temperatures
Most plants like the same temperature we like. The safest temperature is a mild 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 21 degrees Celsius)—not too hot, not too cold. If you place your houseplant near a window, be cognizant of the weather outside—with seasonal changes it could go from very hot in the summer to freezing cold in the winter, effecting your plant’s life. Additionally, if you start cranking on the heater or air conditioner, it could dry out your plant. Use a mister or make a humidity tray to increase the humidity in a dry environment. Keep in mind, “If you’re comfortable, they are probably ok. But don’t forget to check the care card for temperature specifics!
6. Not “pinching”
Certain flowering plants require you to “pinch off” old blooms to encourage new growth. You’ll know when to pinch because the blooms will have turned brown, indicating that they are dying. Pinch the bloom, by holding the stem with one hand and using your other hand or gardening sheers to pluck off the entire bloom.
7. Not repotting
Houseplants can become bound by the containers they are in. Most plants outgrow their pot within one to two years, so it’s important to swap it out for a larger one with fresh soil, or replant it in the ground outside, giving it more space to grow. You’ll know when to repot because the leaves may turn yellow, indicating it isn’t getting enough nutrients from the soil anymore or water may pour quickly out the bottom holes as you water it. In some cases, you may see roots growing out of the drain holes in the plastic grower pot.
To inspect the roots, water the plant thoroughly, and then carefully tap the side of the grower pot onto a hard surface. Gently remove the plant from the plastic grower pot and if the roots have grown into a mass or matt around the soil, or the plant will not easily lift from the plastic pot, your plant is root bound and needs to be repotted. Also keep in mind that you should never repot when the plant is blooming. It is also important to make sure you select the right size pot for your plant from the beginning.
8. Ignoring insects
Some of the most common damaging insects for plants include gnats, spider mites and white flies. Prevent pests from attacking your garden with such techniques as waiting 30 days to introduce new plants to the area you keep other plants, removing weak plants, using seaweed mulch or spray and keeping leaves clean by wiping them down with soap and water. If bugs are damaging your plants, first identify which kind it is, then use a natural remedy to eliminate them. Keep in mind that some insects are actually beneficial to your plants, like ladybugs or praying mantises.
9. Neglect
Going on vacation? Nice for you, but not for your houseplants. Make sure that you arrange for someone to come and water your plants while you are away. Another option is to use a Plant Nanny device—a terracotta-watering stake that you attach a bottle of water to on one end, and then insert the other end into the soil. When the soil dries, it automatically draws water from the bottle.
10. Not fertilizing
Houseplants are dependent on their soil for nutrients, and may need supplements for optimal health, growth and bloom production. Using a balanced houseplant food (which can be purchased at any nursery or big box store) on a regular basis, as instructed by the manufacturer, will ensure your plant is getting the nutrients it needs. Check to see if your plant variety is listed on the back label when picking out a fertilizer. Some plants, such as orchids, require fertilizers specifically formulated for their needs. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label for your plant, as over-fertilizing can kill your plants.
11. Wrong soil
Each plant species has different needs when it comes to the type of soil it requires based on its natural environment. You can mix your own soil at home, or choose a high-quality, organic soil with medium weight to give it the longest lifespan. Make sure that the soil you mix or buy is designed for your plant’s needs. Some plants do best in thick, dense soil, while other plants, such as cacti, need fast-draining soil with high sand and peat content, to prevent root rot.
12. Moving too much
Plants become accustomed to their place in your home, and don’t like to be moved around too much. If a plant is thriving under certain temperatures and light conditions, moving it could make it difficult to adjust to its new environment. Typically you’ll want to find a good place for your houseplant and keep it there.
Plants are beautiful additions to your home, bringing a lively, fresh outdoor feel inside. Don’t be afraid to own an indoor houseplant because you are a notorious plant killer—start off with easy plants to care for, like succulents, money trees or evergreen lilies. Once you get into your groove with your houseplants, it becomes fun to maintain them—and well worth the little extra work.
1. Not reading care instructions
Just like people, no two plants are the same. The number-one most critical rule we can stress when you receive your plant is: read the care instructions included. Even plants that you buy at a nursery should come with instructions that, when followed precisely, can prevent you from becoming a plant killer.
2. Over watering
People often think that more water is better. But all plants have different needs when it comes to watering—which can vary based on the time of year, amount of light and temperature. The easiest solution is to understand the moisture level of your plant. Some plants like to dry out completely between waterings, others need to be kept moist—so the safest bet is to check the care instructions. Stick your finger into the dirt about an inch (2.5 cm) deep to feel whether it’s dry or moist.
When excess water collects at the bottom of the plant’s container, it causes root rot, which can kill your indoor plant. The best way to avoid this is to remove the plastic grower pot from inside the decorative pot, water it in the sink and then let it drain completely before replacing it back in its decorative outer pot.
3. Underwatering
What’s just as harmful to your plant as overwatering? You guessed it: underwatering. When in doubt, check the care instructions to learn how often to water your particular plant species. Again, stick your finger in the soil to see if it feels dry. Some plants, like the Peace Lily, are very expressive—the leaves will droop when it is in need of a good watering, and will perk right back up again once its thirst is quenched. Water the soil thoroughly each time, making sure it drains from the holes at the bottom of your pot.
4. Too much/too little light
All plants need light at varying degrees. Plants will tell you if they’re not getting the right amount of light. The leaves could change color or turn brown if they are getting too much light and essentially become sunburned. On the flip side, if you notice your plant “craning its neck” toward the light, or producing very small, pale leaves, it wants more. Most plants do well with bright, filtered light—but always follow the care instructions.
5. Extreme temperatures
Most plants like the same temperature we like. The safest temperature is a mild 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 21 degrees Celsius)—not too hot, not too cold. If you place your houseplant near a window, be cognizant of the weather outside—with seasonal changes it could go from very hot in the summer to freezing cold in the winter, effecting your plant’s life. Additionally, if you start cranking on the heater or air conditioner, it could dry out your plant. Use a mister or make a humidity tray to increase the humidity in a dry environment. Keep in mind, “If you’re comfortable, they are probably ok. But don’t forget to check the care card for temperature specifics!
6. Not “pinching”
Certain flowering plants require you to “pinch off” old blooms to encourage new growth. You’ll know when to pinch because the blooms will have turned brown, indicating that they are dying. Pinch the bloom, by holding the stem with one hand and using your other hand or gardening sheers to pluck off the entire bloom.
7. Not repotting
Houseplants can become bound by the containers they are in. Most plants outgrow their pot within one to two years, so it’s important to swap it out for a larger one with fresh soil, or replant it in the ground outside, giving it more space to grow. You’ll know when to repot because the leaves may turn yellow, indicating it isn’t getting enough nutrients from the soil anymore or water may pour quickly out the bottom holes as you water it. In some cases, you may see roots growing out of the drain holes in the plastic grower pot.
To inspect the roots, water the plant thoroughly, and then carefully tap the side of the grower pot onto a hard surface. Gently remove the plant from the plastic grower pot and if the roots have grown into a mass or matt around the soil, or the plant will not easily lift from the plastic pot, your plant is root bound and needs to be repotted. Also keep in mind that you should never repot when the plant is blooming. It is also important to make sure you select the right size pot for your plant from the beginning.
8. Ignoring insects
Some of the most common damaging insects for plants include gnats, spider mites and white flies. Prevent pests from attacking your garden with such techniques as waiting 30 days to introduce new plants to the area you keep other plants, removing weak plants, using seaweed mulch or spray and keeping leaves clean by wiping them down with soap and water. If bugs are damaging your plants, first identify which kind it is, then use a natural remedy to eliminate them. Keep in mind that some insects are actually beneficial to your plants, like ladybugs or praying mantises.
9. Neglect
Going on vacation? Nice for you, but not for your houseplants. Make sure that you arrange for someone to come and water your plants while you are away. Another option is to use a Plant Nanny device—a terracotta-watering stake that you attach a bottle of water to on one end, and then insert the other end into the soil. When the soil dries, it automatically draws water from the bottle.
10. Not fertilizing
Houseplants are dependent on their soil for nutrients, and may need supplements for optimal health, growth and bloom production. Using a balanced houseplant food (which can be purchased at any nursery or big box store) on a regular basis, as instructed by the manufacturer, will ensure your plant is getting the nutrients it needs. Check to see if your plant variety is listed on the back label when picking out a fertilizer. Some plants, such as orchids, require fertilizers specifically formulated for their needs. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label for your plant, as over-fertilizing can kill your plants.
11. Wrong soil
Each plant species has different needs when it comes to the type of soil it requires based on its natural environment. You can mix your own soil at home, or choose a high-quality, organic soil with medium weight to give it the longest lifespan. Make sure that the soil you mix or buy is designed for your plant’s needs. Some plants do best in thick, dense soil, while other plants, such as cacti, need fast-draining soil with high sand and peat content, to prevent root rot.
12. Moving too much
Plants become accustomed to their place in your home, and don’t like to be moved around too much. If a plant is thriving under certain temperatures and light conditions, moving it could make it difficult to adjust to its new environment. Typically you’ll want to find a good place for your houseplant and keep it there.
Plants are beautiful additions to your home, bringing a lively, fresh outdoor feel inside. Don’t be afraid to own an indoor houseplant because you are a notorious plant killer—start off with easy plants to care for, like succulents, money trees or evergreen lilies. Once you get into your groove with your houseplants, it becomes fun to maintain them—and well worth the little extra work.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
GIVING and receiving flowering plants at the holidays is a time-honored tradition, but one that's fraught with anxiety. Unlike a box of chocolates or a pair of gloves, a living plant requires care to keep it healthy. Holiday houseplants, such as cyclamen, are particularly worrisome for most folks because their flowering cycle and general care are unfamiliar, even to seasoned gardeners.
Florist's cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) start showing up in grocery stores and garden centers between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Flowers with swept-back petals resemble shooting stars and their heart-shaped leaves are embroidered with intricate, silvery patterns. In the right conditions, the plants will bloom continuously for a couple of months.
Like many other plants in their native eastern Mediterranean climate, cyclamen naturally bloom in the fall, winter, and spring when the weather turns cool and damp. During the hot, dry summers, cyclamen become dormant; their foliage yellows and dies back and plants show no signs of growth. They store energy for the next flowering season in their round tubers.
The key to keeping cyclamen happy and healthy is to replicate their natural environment as closely as possible. They thrive in cool temperatures that drop as low as 40 degrees F. at night and rise into the 60s during the day. Place them close to a bright south-, east-, or west-facing window for maximum sunlight.
Cyclamen are a bit fussy about watering. It's best to let the soil get somewhat dry between waterings, but not to the point of wilting. When the pot feels light or the soil feels dry just below the surface, water it thoroughly and let it drain. Pour out any water left in the saucer so that the soil doesn't stay soggy. Fertilize with regular houseplant fertilizer for flowering plants.
To keep plants blooming, remove flowers as they finish by cutting the stems near the base of the plant. Sometimes the petals will fall off and leave a round seed capsule that resembles a flower bud. Remove these, too. True cyclamen flower buds are long and pointed. Also remove yellow and withered leaves.
In the spring, let the soil dry out and keep the pot in a cool dry place for the summer. The plants will look dead, but as long as the tubers remain hard and plump, they are only resting. Begin watering in the early fall and put it back into a cool, bright window for another season of bloom.
Florist's cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) start showing up in grocery stores and garden centers between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Flowers with swept-back petals resemble shooting stars and their heart-shaped leaves are embroidered with intricate, silvery patterns. In the right conditions, the plants will bloom continuously for a couple of months.
Like many other plants in their native eastern Mediterranean climate, cyclamen naturally bloom in the fall, winter, and spring when the weather turns cool and damp. During the hot, dry summers, cyclamen become dormant; their foliage yellows and dies back and plants show no signs of growth. They store energy for the next flowering season in their round tubers.
The key to keeping cyclamen happy and healthy is to replicate their natural environment as closely as possible. They thrive in cool temperatures that drop as low as 40 degrees F. at night and rise into the 60s during the day. Place them close to a bright south-, east-, or west-facing window for maximum sunlight.
Cyclamen are a bit fussy about watering. It's best to let the soil get somewhat dry between waterings, but not to the point of wilting. When the pot feels light or the soil feels dry just below the surface, water it thoroughly and let it drain. Pour out any water left in the saucer so that the soil doesn't stay soggy. Fertilize with regular houseplant fertilizer for flowering plants.
To keep plants blooming, remove flowers as they finish by cutting the stems near the base of the plant. Sometimes the petals will fall off and leave a round seed capsule that resembles a flower bud. Remove these, too. True cyclamen flower buds are long and pointed. Also remove yellow and withered leaves.
In the spring, let the soil dry out and keep the pot in a cool dry place for the summer. The plants will look dead, but as long as the tubers remain hard and plump, they are only resting. Begin watering in the early fall and put it back into a cool, bright window for another season of bloom.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Crassula ovata, commonly called Jade Plant, is among the most common houseplants, although they are hardy outdoors to United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Native to southern Africa, this plant is easily recognized by its smooth, stubby, succulent leaves. They propagate easily from cuttings and because they are so tolerant of neglect, newly propagated Jade Plants make excellent gifts for new gardeners.
Take a cutting approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long from a stem of a mature Jade Plant. You can take multiple cuttings if you wish to propagate more than one plant. Each cutting should have at least two good sets of leaves.
Remove the bottom set of leaves from each cutting. Jade Plant leaves grow in pairs opposite each other on the stem.
Set the cuttings out to dry overnight to allow the cut ends of the plant to callous, reducing the chance of decay when planted in soil.
Dip the leaf nodes and cut ends into a rooting hormone powder, if desired. Rooting hormone encourages roots to develop faster, but isn’t required to successfully propagate Jade Plants.
Plant the cuttings in a potting mixture with plenty of drainage so that the bottom leaf nodes are buried in the soil. A potting mix with peat moss provides good drainage, but some gardeners prefer to propagate Jade Plants in moist sand.
Water the cuttings frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Succulents such as Jade Plants store water in their leaves and may perform poorly with too much water.
Transplant the cuttings after a few weeks when the plants begin to grow or substantial root growth occurs. The plant’s energy is channeled to root development, so growth above the soil usually doesn’t occur at all until healthy roots are established. If the plant appears to be growing above the soil, this is a good sign that roots are well established and it’s time to transplant the new Jade Plant into a larger container.
Warning
Jade Plants are potentially invasive outdoors if pieces of the plant fall into natural areas. In order to prevent this problem, only plant jade plants outdoors in a controlled planting bed in USDA zones 10 and 11 and properly dispose of all plant pieces as they fall off the plant.
Take a cutting approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long from a stem of a mature Jade Plant. You can take multiple cuttings if you wish to propagate more than one plant. Each cutting should have at least two good sets of leaves.
Remove the bottom set of leaves from each cutting. Jade Plant leaves grow in pairs opposite each other on the stem.
Set the cuttings out to dry overnight to allow the cut ends of the plant to callous, reducing the chance of decay when planted in soil.
Dip the leaf nodes and cut ends into a rooting hormone powder, if desired. Rooting hormone encourages roots to develop faster, but isn’t required to successfully propagate Jade Plants.
Plant the cuttings in a potting mixture with plenty of drainage so that the bottom leaf nodes are buried in the soil. A potting mix with peat moss provides good drainage, but some gardeners prefer to propagate Jade Plants in moist sand.
Water the cuttings frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Succulents such as Jade Plants store water in their leaves and may perform poorly with too much water.
Transplant the cuttings after a few weeks when the plants begin to grow or substantial root growth occurs. The plant’s energy is channeled to root development, so growth above the soil usually doesn’t occur at all until healthy roots are established. If the plant appears to be growing above the soil, this is a good sign that roots are well established and it’s time to transplant the new Jade Plant into a larger container.
Warning
Jade Plants are potentially invasive outdoors if pieces of the plant fall into natural areas. In order to prevent this problem, only plant jade plants outdoors in a controlled planting bed in USDA zones 10 and 11 and properly dispose of all plant pieces as they fall off the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Cacti are easy-care houseplants because their feeding and watering needs are extremely low. You can largely ignore them and they still thrive. But if you’re a chronic overwaterer, cacti may be a source of endless frustration. When your cactus has clearly been overwatered, don’t fear — there is a chance you can save it. If there is no fungal or bacterial rot present, a change of neighborhoods may be enough to get your cactus back on track.
Damage Assessment
If you suspect overwatering and damage, such as soft brown spots, are obvious on the outside of the cactus, unpot the plant by wrapping a few layers of newspaper around it and tipping the cactus out. Carefully brush the soil from the roots and check them for brown or black areas. Extensive damage may be difficult to fix, but if most of the roots are still white, you’re in good shape. Cut away the black and brown roots and leave the cactus out of its pot to dry. If brown or black rot areas are extensive, you will need to reroot the cactus. A cactus that has only been occasionally overwatered will recover without further drama.
Encourage Drainage
When overwatering is a chronic problem, help the cactus to shed as much water as quickly as possible in the future. Select an unglazed clay pot only slightly bigger than the cactus and fill it with a commercial cactus mix. Pot the cactus in the mix gently, so you don’t upset its delicate roots. The clay pot will wick away more water from the root zone while the loose cactus mix allows water to drain quickly and completely. You should only plant very large landscape cacti directly in the ground because landscape plantings give you less control over drainage.
Rerooting
When roots or tissues are extensively damaged from overwatering, use a sharp, clean knife to cut away all the rot from the cactus. Even a small portion of healthy tissue can regenerate a whole plant, but if you leave the rot behind, it may continue to spread. Allow the cactus to dry on the counter for several days until a thick scab forms on the cut sections. Place the remaining cactus section into a clay pot with cactus soil and bury it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep unless there isn’t much of the cactus left — in that case, bury it about halfway. Don’t water the cactus for the first week, and only water sparingly after that until new growth appears.
Proper Watering
Once your cactus is repotted and ready for success, correct watering is vital to prevent new problems. Only water cacti when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of the soil — depending on the size of the cactus — is completely dry. Do not water the plant from the bottom and never leave it sitting in a saucer of water. It is much better for cacti to be dry than to be wet — a good rule of thumb is to water about once every 10 days.
Damage Assessment
If you suspect overwatering and damage, such as soft brown spots, are obvious on the outside of the cactus, unpot the plant by wrapping a few layers of newspaper around it and tipping the cactus out. Carefully brush the soil from the roots and check them for brown or black areas. Extensive damage may be difficult to fix, but if most of the roots are still white, you’re in good shape. Cut away the black and brown roots and leave the cactus out of its pot to dry. If brown or black rot areas are extensive, you will need to reroot the cactus. A cactus that has only been occasionally overwatered will recover without further drama.
Encourage Drainage
When overwatering is a chronic problem, help the cactus to shed as much water as quickly as possible in the future. Select an unglazed clay pot only slightly bigger than the cactus and fill it with a commercial cactus mix. Pot the cactus in the mix gently, so you don’t upset its delicate roots. The clay pot will wick away more water from the root zone while the loose cactus mix allows water to drain quickly and completely. You should only plant very large landscape cacti directly in the ground because landscape plantings give you less control over drainage.
Rerooting
When roots or tissues are extensively damaged from overwatering, use a sharp, clean knife to cut away all the rot from the cactus. Even a small portion of healthy tissue can regenerate a whole plant, but if you leave the rot behind, it may continue to spread. Allow the cactus to dry on the counter for several days until a thick scab forms on the cut sections. Place the remaining cactus section into a clay pot with cactus soil and bury it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep unless there isn’t much of the cactus left — in that case, bury it about halfway. Don’t water the cactus for the first week, and only water sparingly after that until new growth appears.
Proper Watering
Once your cactus is repotted and ready for success, correct watering is vital to prevent new problems. Only water cacti when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of the soil — depending on the size of the cactus — is completely dry. Do not water the plant from the bottom and never leave it sitting in a saucer of water. It is much better for cacti to be dry than to be wet — a good rule of thumb is to water about once every 10 days.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy Aloe and Echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia. In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Agave can be exceptional houseplants, depending on which one you buy. There are about 450 species of Agave, including the famous Century Plant (which, for the record, does flower more often than once a century). As desert plants, Agave appreciate direct, abundant sunlight and light water. They are slow-growing, so even specimens that grow into large plants can be kept inside for a period of time before they outgrow the room.
Agave are not very “people friendly” their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can luxuriate in full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light.
Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don’t let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly.
Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70ºF/21ºC – 90ºF/32ºC) and cooler fall and winter temps (50ºF/10ºC – 60ºF/15ºC).
Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.
Propagation
Agave are difficult to grow from seed, and indoor plants will rarely flower anyway. Instead, use off-sets as the plant ages. In general, however, propagation of Agave grown as houseplants can be difficult, since plants may not produce off-sets at all, and once potted up, off-sets frequently take a long time to begin growing.
In most cases, it’s better to simply buy a new plant or take your propagation efforts to the greenhouse or glasshouse. If you are potting up off-sets, use a cactus soil and keep them in a place with strong light. Lightly water and give them plenty of time to form strong roots before repotting.
Repotting
In general, Agave do not need to be repotted every year. Most of the species commonly found in cultivation grow very slowly and will take a long time to outgrow their pot. It’s also best to handle your Agave as little as possible, since they do not like to be disturbed. When you do repot, refresh the spent soil with new potting mix and make sure the plant is firmly anchored in its pot. However, be careful not to pot the Agave too deep as that will encourage stem rot during the growing season. When repotting, use a fast-draining cacti or succulent mix. Do not use a mix that will become soggy or hold water.
Grower’s Tips
Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They’re slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you’re the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, Agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you’re the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, Agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and Agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets.
Agave are not very “people friendly” their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can luxuriate in full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light.
Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don’t let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly.
Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70ºF/21ºC – 90ºF/32ºC) and cooler fall and winter temps (50ºF/10ºC – 60ºF/15ºC).
Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.
Propagation
Agave are difficult to grow from seed, and indoor plants will rarely flower anyway. Instead, use off-sets as the plant ages. In general, however, propagation of Agave grown as houseplants can be difficult, since plants may not produce off-sets at all, and once potted up, off-sets frequently take a long time to begin growing.
In most cases, it’s better to simply buy a new plant or take your propagation efforts to the greenhouse or glasshouse. If you are potting up off-sets, use a cactus soil and keep them in a place with strong light. Lightly water and give them plenty of time to form strong roots before repotting.
Repotting
In general, Agave do not need to be repotted every year. Most of the species commonly found in cultivation grow very slowly and will take a long time to outgrow their pot. It’s also best to handle your Agave as little as possible, since they do not like to be disturbed. When you do repot, refresh the spent soil with new potting mix and make sure the plant is firmly anchored in its pot. However, be careful not to pot the Agave too deep as that will encourage stem rot during the growing season. When repotting, use a fast-draining cacti or succulent mix. Do not use a mix that will become soggy or hold water.
Grower’s Tips
Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They’re slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you’re the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, Agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you’re the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, Agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and Agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets.
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