文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Epiphyllum (Orchid Cacti) are often grown as houseplants as they are relatively trouble-free. They produce large, showy flowers, which are usually sweetly-scented and last two days or more. Some species such as Epiphyllum oxypetalum are nocturnal – with their flowers opening during the night. Epiphyllum cacti are mostly epiphytic (they grow on other plants, but only use them as a support). They are often grown in hanging baskets to accommodate their long, pendent, leaf-like stems, but can be grown in containers.
Growing Conditions
Epiphyllum are hardy to about 50°F (10°C), but require at least 60°F (15°C) during the growing season, so are best grown in a heated greenhouse, conservatory or indoors.
Place the pots in bright, filtered light, with moderate to high humidity. To increase the humidity, position the pot on a tray filled with gravel and keep this topped up with water, but not enough so that the water reaches the surface.
Epiphyllum cacti require sharply-drained growing media. Grow them in a standard cactus compost with added grit or perlite. Alternatively, mix three parts loam-based compost, with two parts grit or perlite and one part peat-free multipurpose compost.
Pruning and Training
Overlong stems can be cut off or shortened. New shoots will usually develop just behind the cut. However, be careful not to overwater after pruning as the plant’s water requirements will be reduced.
Large Epiphyllum can become unstable in their pots. Either repot in to a heavier pot, such as terracotta, or a wider container, such as a pan. Alternatively, try using canes and tying the stems up, but this can look unsightly.
Propagation
The two most successful methods of propagation are by seed and cuttings.
Sowing seed:
Sow seed in spring or summer;
Fill a container with cactus compost and scatter the seed evenly on the surface;
Moisten the compost lightly with a fine mist sprayer;
Top-dress with a thin layer of fine grit;
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or place into a propagator and keep at 70°F (21°C);
Remove the covering once the seeds have germinated;
Keep the compost moist, but not wet;
Prick out when the seedlings become crowded and large enough to handle comfortably;
They will take four to seven years to flower.
Cuttings: Take stem cuttings in spring to late summer.
Cut the leaf-like stem into 15-22.5cm (6-9in) sections and let it callus (dry) for several days in a warm place;
Fill a pot one third full with cactus compost and cover with a layer of grit. Insert the cuttings 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) deep;
Keep the compost just moist and maintain temperature of 65-75°F (18-24°C);
They should root in three to six weeks and flower the following year, if taken early in the season.
Pests and Problems
Epiphyllum cacti are prone to several common houseplant and greenhouse problems: mealybugs, aphids and glasshouse red spider mite.
Grower’s Tips
From mid-spring until late summer, water the plants when the compost begins to dry out, but do not let the plants stand in water. Apply cactus fertiliser fortnightly. To encourage blooming, move Epiphyllum in winter into a cooler place, about 52-57°F (11-14°C) and keep the compost just moist until the flower buds form. Once this has happened, increase the temperature and resume the normal watering regime.
Growing Conditions
Epiphyllum are hardy to about 50°F (10°C), but require at least 60°F (15°C) during the growing season, so are best grown in a heated greenhouse, conservatory or indoors.
Place the pots in bright, filtered light, with moderate to high humidity. To increase the humidity, position the pot on a tray filled with gravel and keep this topped up with water, but not enough so that the water reaches the surface.
Epiphyllum cacti require sharply-drained growing media. Grow them in a standard cactus compost with added grit or perlite. Alternatively, mix three parts loam-based compost, with two parts grit or perlite and one part peat-free multipurpose compost.
Pruning and Training
Overlong stems can be cut off or shortened. New shoots will usually develop just behind the cut. However, be careful not to overwater after pruning as the plant’s water requirements will be reduced.
Large Epiphyllum can become unstable in their pots. Either repot in to a heavier pot, such as terracotta, or a wider container, such as a pan. Alternatively, try using canes and tying the stems up, but this can look unsightly.
Propagation
The two most successful methods of propagation are by seed and cuttings.
Sowing seed:
Sow seed in spring or summer;
Fill a container with cactus compost and scatter the seed evenly on the surface;
Moisten the compost lightly with a fine mist sprayer;
Top-dress with a thin layer of fine grit;
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or place into a propagator and keep at 70°F (21°C);
Remove the covering once the seeds have germinated;
Keep the compost moist, but not wet;
Prick out when the seedlings become crowded and large enough to handle comfortably;
They will take four to seven years to flower.
Cuttings: Take stem cuttings in spring to late summer.
Cut the leaf-like stem into 15-22.5cm (6-9in) sections and let it callus (dry) for several days in a warm place;
Fill a pot one third full with cactus compost and cover with a layer of grit. Insert the cuttings 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) deep;
Keep the compost just moist and maintain temperature of 65-75°F (18-24°C);
They should root in three to six weeks and flower the following year, if taken early in the season.
Pests and Problems
Epiphyllum cacti are prone to several common houseplant and greenhouse problems: mealybugs, aphids and glasshouse red spider mite.
Grower’s Tips
From mid-spring until late summer, water the plants when the compost begins to dry out, but do not let the plants stand in water. Apply cactus fertiliser fortnightly. To encourage blooming, move Epiphyllum in winter into a cooler place, about 52-57°F (11-14°C) and keep the compost just moist until the flower buds form. Once this has happened, increase the temperature and resume the normal watering regime.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Yucca are desert plants native to the Southwestern United States, Mexico and Central America. They’ve also bee naturalized throughout the Southern United States. As far as houseplants go, they are probably eclipsed by the similar-looking Dracaena genus (which is often mistaken for Yucca). They are, however, interesting and slow-growing houseplants that have the added benefit of being extremely drought tolerant.
If you kill a Yucca, it’s probably due to overwatering. Over time, most species will grow into room-devouring monsters, but this takes long enough that they provide years of durable service as a houseplant. One word of caution, however: one of the popular species, Yucca aloifolia has very sharp spines on its leaf-tips that could potentially cause injury.
Spineless species are much more suited for indoor cultivation.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, unfiltered sunlight. Yucca thrive in full sunlight, so they’re perfect for that west-facing window where everything else burns up.
Water: They are highly sensitive to water-logging. Water regularly in the spring and summer growing season, but make sure the plant has excellent drainage and dries between waterings. Water sporadically in the winter. Never let a plant sit in a tray of water.
Temperature: Widely variable. Yucca are adapted to the desert, where temperatures can soar into the 90°F (32°C) or higher and down into the 30°F (-1°C) at night.
Soil: A loose, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the growing season with liquid fertilizer or controlled-release fertilizer according to label instructions.
Propagation
The easiest way to propagate Yucca is with offsets of older plants. Divide the plant during repotting or carefully slice away the offset and pot up into a separate container. They can also be propagated by stem cuttings, using pieces of stem of at least 4 inches (20 cm) and rooting hormone. Yucca grown indoors will likely not flower or bear seeds.
Repotting
Yucca are relatively slow-growing plants that should only need to be repotted every other year. They do well slightly pot-bound, as long as they don’t become heavy enough to tip over their containers. Repotting larger plants can be difficult, so larger plants can be refreshed with new potting soil by digging out the top 2 inches (5 cm) of the container and adding new soil. During typical repotting, remove the Yucca plant from its container and go up one container size. Always use fresh potting soil.
Grower’s Tips
Under the right conditions, Yucca are not difficult plants to grow. They tend to thrive on a little neglect, rather than too much attention. They are especially easy to overwater, and soggy stems are a sign of too much water. The best conditions for Yucca include a sunny corner with relatively low humidity. They are not prone to many pests, although scale can be an issue. Over time, plants will typically lose their lower leaves (in nature, they droop, forming a skirt around the trunk), giving the plant a pleasant “tree-like” appearance.
If you kill a Yucca, it’s probably due to overwatering. Over time, most species will grow into room-devouring monsters, but this takes long enough that they provide years of durable service as a houseplant. One word of caution, however: one of the popular species, Yucca aloifolia has very sharp spines on its leaf-tips that could potentially cause injury.
Spineless species are much more suited for indoor cultivation.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, unfiltered sunlight. Yucca thrive in full sunlight, so they’re perfect for that west-facing window where everything else burns up.
Water: They are highly sensitive to water-logging. Water regularly in the spring and summer growing season, but make sure the plant has excellent drainage and dries between waterings. Water sporadically in the winter. Never let a plant sit in a tray of water.
Temperature: Widely variable. Yucca are adapted to the desert, where temperatures can soar into the 90°F (32°C) or higher and down into the 30°F (-1°C) at night.
Soil: A loose, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the growing season with liquid fertilizer or controlled-release fertilizer according to label instructions.
Propagation
The easiest way to propagate Yucca is with offsets of older plants. Divide the plant during repotting or carefully slice away the offset and pot up into a separate container. They can also be propagated by stem cuttings, using pieces of stem of at least 4 inches (20 cm) and rooting hormone. Yucca grown indoors will likely not flower or bear seeds.
Repotting
Yucca are relatively slow-growing plants that should only need to be repotted every other year. They do well slightly pot-bound, as long as they don’t become heavy enough to tip over their containers. Repotting larger plants can be difficult, so larger plants can be refreshed with new potting soil by digging out the top 2 inches (5 cm) of the container and adding new soil. During typical repotting, remove the Yucca plant from its container and go up one container size. Always use fresh potting soil.
Grower’s Tips
Under the right conditions, Yucca are not difficult plants to grow. They tend to thrive on a little neglect, rather than too much attention. They are especially easy to overwater, and soggy stems are a sign of too much water. The best conditions for Yucca include a sunny corner with relatively low humidity. They are not prone to many pests, although scale can be an issue. Over time, plants will typically lose their lower leaves (in nature, they droop, forming a skirt around the trunk), giving the plant a pleasant “tree-like” appearance.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Peperomia is a relatively easy, compact, and attractive little plant to grow. They are neither as striking as Begonias nor as hardy as Dracaena, which may account for their relatively low profile in the world of houseplants. But these plants have all the features we look for in houseplants: variability, interesting leaves, and tolerance for a relatively wide range of conditions. Although it may be tempting to think of Peperomia as succulents, due to their thick, slightly succulent leaves, that would be a mistake because they generally prefer higher humidity and more water than most succulents. In fact, these plants are native to South American rain forests, where they grow quite happily in the loamy, dappled light, cool understory of the rain forest.
Growing Conditions
Light: Peperomia do well in light to moderate light, such as found in a northern or east-facing window. They can be easily grown under fluorescent lights.
Water: Keep the soil moist during the growing season and provide relatively high humidity through spraying or by setting the pot in a gravel tray.
Temperature: Average. Peperomia do well in the relatively cool environment of most homes (although they dislike the dry). Aim for 65˚F to 75˚F (18˚C to 24˚C).
Soil: A loose, well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize biweekly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer or use controlled-release fertilizer pellets at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Peperomia thrives when slightly pot-bound, so don’t over pot them. Repot plants in spring, especially to refresh the existing soil, but place either back into the same size container after root-pruning or go up only one pot size. The largest Peperomia remain relatively small, so they will never grow into large specimen plants.
Propagation
Most Peperomia species can be relatively easily propagated from leaf cuttings, similar to the way African violets are propagated. Remove large leaves with their stalks (petioles) and bury in seedling starting soil. Use of a rooting hormone can increase odds of success. Place the cutting in a warm, bright place until new growth emerges.
Grower’s Tips
Peperomia are not particularly hard plants to grow, and their small size and delicate leaves make them perfect for desktops and dish gardens. They will rarely overtake their neighbors or shade them out. In short, they are perfectly mannered and attractive little plants. The biggest problem facing Peperomia are usually related to watering. They like steadily moist soil, but can be very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatered Peperomia tend to wilt (paradoxically) or have raised, scab-like protrusions on their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your plant loses a few bottom leaves, but massive leaf-drop is usually due to a temperature change or fertilizer problem. Lastly, Peperomia are susceptible to mealybugs, so keep an eye out for cottony white masses on the stems or undersides of leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Peperomia do well in light to moderate light, such as found in a northern or east-facing window. They can be easily grown under fluorescent lights.
Water: Keep the soil moist during the growing season and provide relatively high humidity through spraying or by setting the pot in a gravel tray.
Temperature: Average. Peperomia do well in the relatively cool environment of most homes (although they dislike the dry). Aim for 65˚F to 75˚F (18˚C to 24˚C).
Soil: A loose, well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize biweekly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer or use controlled-release fertilizer pellets at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Peperomia thrives when slightly pot-bound, so don’t over pot them. Repot plants in spring, especially to refresh the existing soil, but place either back into the same size container after root-pruning or go up only one pot size. The largest Peperomia remain relatively small, so they will never grow into large specimen plants.
Propagation
Most Peperomia species can be relatively easily propagated from leaf cuttings, similar to the way African violets are propagated. Remove large leaves with their stalks (petioles) and bury in seedling starting soil. Use of a rooting hormone can increase odds of success. Place the cutting in a warm, bright place until new growth emerges.
Grower’s Tips
Peperomia are not particularly hard plants to grow, and their small size and delicate leaves make them perfect for desktops and dish gardens. They will rarely overtake their neighbors or shade them out. In short, they are perfectly mannered and attractive little plants. The biggest problem facing Peperomia are usually related to watering. They like steadily moist soil, but can be very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatered Peperomia tend to wilt (paradoxically) or have raised, scab-like protrusions on their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your plant loses a few bottom leaves, but massive leaf-drop is usually due to a temperature change or fertilizer problem. Lastly, Peperomia are susceptible to mealybugs, so keep an eye out for cottony white masses on the stems or undersides of leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa), also known as Pussy Ears is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Panda Plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the decor.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti are easy-care houseplants because their feeding and watering needs are extremely low. You can largely ignore them and they still thrive. But if you’re a chronic overwaterer, cacti may be a source of endless frustration. When your cactus has clearly been overwatered, don’t fear — there is a chance you can save it. If there is no fungal or bacterial rot present, a change of neighborhoods may be enough to get your cactus back on track.
Damage Assessment
If you suspect overwatering and damage, such as soft brown spots, are obvious on the outside of the cactus, unpot the plant by wrapping a few layers of newspaper around it and tipping the cactus out. Carefully brush the soil from the roots and check them for brown or black areas. Extensive damage may be difficult to fix, but if most of the roots are still white, you’re in good shape. Cut away the black and brown roots and leave the cactus out of its pot to dry. If brown or black rot areas are extensive, you will need to reroot the cactus. A cactus that has only been occasionally overwatered will recover without further drama.
Encourage Drainage
When overwatering is a chronic problem, help the cactus to shed as much water as quickly as possible in the future. Select an unglazed clay pot only slightly bigger than the cactus and fill it with a commercial cactus mix. Pot the cactus in the mix gently, so you don’t upset its delicate roots. The clay pot will wick away more water from the root zone while the loose cactus mix allows water to drain quickly and completely. You should only plant very large landscape cacti directly in the ground because landscape plantings give you less control over drainage.
Rerooting
When roots or tissues are extensively damaged from overwatering, use a sharp, clean knife to cut away all the rot from the cactus. Even a small portion of healthy tissue can regenerate a whole plant, but if you leave the rot behind, it may continue to spread. Allow the cactus to dry on the counter for several days until a thick scab forms on the cut sections. Place the remaining cactus section into a clay pot with cactus soil and bury it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep unless there isn’t much of the cactus left — in that case, bury it about halfway. Don’t water the cactus for the first week, and only water sparingly after that until new growth appears.
Proper Watering
Once your cactus is repotted and ready for success, correct watering is vital to prevent new problems. Only water cacti when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of the soil — depending on the size of the cactus — is completely dry. Do not water the plant from the bottom and never leave it sitting in a saucer of water. It is much better for cacti to be dry than to be wet — a good rule of thumb is to water about once every 10 days.
Damage Assessment
If you suspect overwatering and damage, such as soft brown spots, are obvious on the outside of the cactus, unpot the plant by wrapping a few layers of newspaper around it and tipping the cactus out. Carefully brush the soil from the roots and check them for brown or black areas. Extensive damage may be difficult to fix, but if most of the roots are still white, you’re in good shape. Cut away the black and brown roots and leave the cactus out of its pot to dry. If brown or black rot areas are extensive, you will need to reroot the cactus. A cactus that has only been occasionally overwatered will recover without further drama.
Encourage Drainage
When overwatering is a chronic problem, help the cactus to shed as much water as quickly as possible in the future. Select an unglazed clay pot only slightly bigger than the cactus and fill it with a commercial cactus mix. Pot the cactus in the mix gently, so you don’t upset its delicate roots. The clay pot will wick away more water from the root zone while the loose cactus mix allows water to drain quickly and completely. You should only plant very large landscape cacti directly in the ground because landscape plantings give you less control over drainage.
Rerooting
When roots or tissues are extensively damaged from overwatering, use a sharp, clean knife to cut away all the rot from the cactus. Even a small portion of healthy tissue can regenerate a whole plant, but if you leave the rot behind, it may continue to spread. Allow the cactus to dry on the counter for several days until a thick scab forms on the cut sections. Place the remaining cactus section into a clay pot with cactus soil and bury it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep unless there isn’t much of the cactus left — in that case, bury it about halfway. Don’t water the cactus for the first week, and only water sparingly after that until new growth appears.
Proper Watering
Once your cactus is repotted and ready for success, correct watering is vital to prevent new problems. Only water cacti when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of the soil — depending on the size of the cactus — is completely dry. Do not water the plant from the bottom and never leave it sitting in a saucer of water. It is much better for cacti to be dry than to be wet — a good rule of thumb is to water about once every 10 days.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are considered low-maintenance plants even when grown indoors. The leaves and stems hold water as an adaptation to growing in arid areas. These plants offer unusual shapes, textures and forms. They make good houseplants for year-round growing inside. Plants grown in pots outdoors can be brought indoors during the winter to protect the cold-temperature sensitive succulent varieties.
1. Feed the succulents one last time at the end of summer. Succulents only need diluted fertilizer while they are actively growing. Stop feeding when the plants stop growing for the year and go dormant, which occurs when the temperatures drop and the light level falls. Too much fertilizer causes succulents to develop soft leaves, which are prone to rot.
2. Place the dormant succulent in an area with at least 3 to 4 hours of bright light. Succulents need less light during the winter than when they are actively growing during the summer. Succulents survive with indirect light during the winter.
3. Keep the temperature of the room the succulents are in around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius) during the winter. Many succulents such as Aeoniums do not tolerate colder temperatures.
4. Pour water into the top of the succulent container until it drains out the bottom. Water the succulents deeply but less often in the winter. The dormant plants do not use as much water as when they are actively growing. Water the plants about once every one to two months.
5. Check the leaves every month for aphids or mealy bugs, which look like tiny cotton balls. Look under the leaves as well. Move an infested succulent away from other plants. Fill a spray bottle with 3 parts rubbing alcohol mixed with 1 part water, and mist it onto the plant to kill the pests. Keep the succulent away from the rest of the plants for a couple of weeks just in case a few of the bugs survive the first spray. Repeat the rubbing alcohol application until all the pests are gone.
1. Feed the succulents one last time at the end of summer. Succulents only need diluted fertilizer while they are actively growing. Stop feeding when the plants stop growing for the year and go dormant, which occurs when the temperatures drop and the light level falls. Too much fertilizer causes succulents to develop soft leaves, which are prone to rot.
2. Place the dormant succulent in an area with at least 3 to 4 hours of bright light. Succulents need less light during the winter than when they are actively growing during the summer. Succulents survive with indirect light during the winter.
3. Keep the temperature of the room the succulents are in around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius) during the winter. Many succulents such as Aeoniums do not tolerate colder temperatures.
4. Pour water into the top of the succulent container until it drains out the bottom. Water the succulents deeply but less often in the winter. The dormant plants do not use as much water as when they are actively growing. Water the plants about once every one to two months.
5. Check the leaves every month for aphids or mealy bugs, which look like tiny cotton balls. Look under the leaves as well. Move an infested succulent away from other plants. Fill a spray bottle with 3 parts rubbing alcohol mixed with 1 part water, and mist it onto the plant to kill the pests. Keep the succulent away from the rest of the plants for a couple of weeks just in case a few of the bugs survive the first spray. Repeat the rubbing alcohol application until all the pests are gone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Some succulents are better suited for the indoors. Some people prefer those with soft leaves for houseplants. Plants with spiny thorns can hurt if you brush against them. You may also want mini succulents for your indoor houseplants. Below are some of the most popular types of indoor succulents.
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata): Chances are you’ve seen a Jade Plant before. Some say that this plant symbolizes wealth. The leaves are oval-shaped and extremely plump. They’re thick, glossy and attractive. The leaves usually stay green. However, they may turn slightly red. Finger Jade has thick, juicy stems, but the leaves don’t form ovals. Instead, they look like stubby fingers. This type of plant has been nicknamed “Hobbit Jade” or “ET’s Fingers.” Jade Plants don’t like a lot of water. They become top heavy and can fall over if they don’t get the right nutrients. Keep the soil dry, and prune them as necessary so that their stems don’t break under their own weight.
Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum): This plant’s stems trail downward. Therefore, plant it in a tall container or hanging basket. The thick, round leaves have a neutral grayish-green color. The stems to which the leaves connect can grow up to two feet long. You’ll need plenty of space in which to grow this plant. The leaves can fall off if they’re disturbed. You’ll also need plenty of sunlight. However, if you choose to move it outdoors in warmer weather, make sure that it can handle the sun and the temperature before committing.
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) The Zebra Plant is perfect for people who don’t have a lot of space or don’t have an ideal indoor spot for a houseplant. This succulent has a small footprint and grows upward with long, triangular leaves. Each leaf is ringed with several white bands that make it resemble a zebra. You can plant it in a shallow container. Keep it in indirect light. Too much sunlight will cause it to wither.
Aloe Vera is a common houseplant that looks great and has health benefits for humans. This plant can take a long time to grow and mature. If you’re using it for the healing benefits of the gel that’s found inside the leaves, you might want to grow several plants at once. It does create offsets. You can re-pot the offsets to cultivate more plants.
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata): Chances are you’ve seen a Jade Plant before. Some say that this plant symbolizes wealth. The leaves are oval-shaped and extremely plump. They’re thick, glossy and attractive. The leaves usually stay green. However, they may turn slightly red. Finger Jade has thick, juicy stems, but the leaves don’t form ovals. Instead, they look like stubby fingers. This type of plant has been nicknamed “Hobbit Jade” or “ET’s Fingers.” Jade Plants don’t like a lot of water. They become top heavy and can fall over if they don’t get the right nutrients. Keep the soil dry, and prune them as necessary so that their stems don’t break under their own weight.
Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum): This plant’s stems trail downward. Therefore, plant it in a tall container or hanging basket. The thick, round leaves have a neutral grayish-green color. The stems to which the leaves connect can grow up to two feet long. You’ll need plenty of space in which to grow this plant. The leaves can fall off if they’re disturbed. You’ll also need plenty of sunlight. However, if you choose to move it outdoors in warmer weather, make sure that it can handle the sun and the temperature before committing.
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) The Zebra Plant is perfect for people who don’t have a lot of space or don’t have an ideal indoor spot for a houseplant. This succulent has a small footprint and grows upward with long, triangular leaves. Each leaf is ringed with several white bands that make it resemble a zebra. You can plant it in a shallow container. Keep it in indirect light. Too much sunlight will cause it to wither.
Aloe Vera is a common houseplant that looks great and has health benefits for humans. This plant can take a long time to grow and mature. If you’re using it for the healing benefits of the gel that’s found inside the leaves, you might want to grow several plants at once. It does create offsets. You can re-pot the offsets to cultivate more plants.
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3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Whiteflies are common on houseplants and in greenhouses. They are piercing-sucking insects found on the underside of leaves. When disturbed on a heavily infested plant, a white cloud of adults will fly into the air. A large infestation can cause plant damage and loss of leaves. In most cases, it is more of a nuisance than a threat to the plant. Since homes and greenhouses are always warm, they can reproduce throughout the year.
When purchasing new plants, always check under the leaves making sure pests are not present. Also, check branching areas for pests. In the home make a habit of checking the underside of leaves when you water. They are easiest to remove at an early stage. In most cases, the pest will not be spotted until there are adults flying around the plant when they are disturbed.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Identification of the whitefly is easy as an apparent white cloud of small snowflakes rises from foliage when disturbed. The adults are about 1/10 to 1/16 inch in length, wedge shaped, and moth-like with white, powdery wings.
Symptoms vary—infested leaves may show little, if any, symptoms or may be mottled and yellow. Leaves will also become coated with a sticky substance called honeydew that is secreted by feeding whitefly nymphs and adults. A black, sooty mold may sometimes grow on the honeydew. Sooty mold does not damage the leaf. The feeding, however, removes nutrients from the plant, resulting in stunting, poor growth, defoliation, reduced yields, and sometimes death.
Life Cycle
Whiteflies are closely related to scales, mealybugs, and aphids. They undergo complete metamorphosis with all life stages present at any time. Eggs are laid on the underside of the leaves. One female can lay about 200 to 400 eggs. They are usually laid in cigar- or circle-shaped clusters of 30 to 40 eggs. The eggs hatch in about a week into nymphs or crawlers. The crawlers wander about the plant and insert their mouth parts to feed on plant sap. When they molt, they lose their antennae and attach themselves to the underside of the leaves where they continue to feed until they pupate. Adults emerge and are about 1/10 to 1/16 inch long and look like a small white moth. The adult has four wings that are covered with a white, powdery, waxy substance. Within a population, all life stages are present, and generations often overlap. The life cycle takes only 18 days.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Inspection. Inspect all new plants brought indoors for whitefly. Inspect regularly, and remove by hand older leaves that are heavily infested with whiteflies in a non-mobile nymphal stage. Isolate new plants for a few days before placing them among other plants.
2. Mechanical control. The use of traps can be very helpful in controlling light infestations. Make yellow sticky traps about 12 x 6 inches and coat them with a sticky substance such as Tanglefoot, petroleum jelly, or heavy grade motor oil. Hang the traps vertically near the affected plants. The adults are attracted to yellow. Traps are also commercially available. One trap for every couple plants is recommended.
3. Chemical control. Whiteflies have developed resistance to some chemicals. Because of this resistance, a certain product may work well in one area but not in another. Resistance may be delayed by alternating the types of chemicals used. In addition, the egg and non-feeding pupa stages are generally not as susceptible to insecticides as are the adults and nymphs. Consequently, eradication of a whitefly population usually requires four to five applications of a registered insecticide at five to seven day intervals. Be sure the applications are made to the lower leaf surface, and apply as soon as whiteflies are detected. Do not wait until populations become severe.
Some of the over-the-counter chemicals that could be used contain permethrin or pyrethrins. Insecticidal soap, petroleum oil, and insect growth regulators can also be effective.
Before using any insecticide for whitefly control, make sure that the target plant is listed on the label and that the chemical is approved for use indoors. Follow label directions carefully.
When purchasing new plants, always check under the leaves making sure pests are not present. Also, check branching areas for pests. In the home make a habit of checking the underside of leaves when you water. They are easiest to remove at an early stage. In most cases, the pest will not be spotted until there are adults flying around the plant when they are disturbed.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Identification of the whitefly is easy as an apparent white cloud of small snowflakes rises from foliage when disturbed. The adults are about 1/10 to 1/16 inch in length, wedge shaped, and moth-like with white, powdery wings.
Symptoms vary—infested leaves may show little, if any, symptoms or may be mottled and yellow. Leaves will also become coated with a sticky substance called honeydew that is secreted by feeding whitefly nymphs and adults. A black, sooty mold may sometimes grow on the honeydew. Sooty mold does not damage the leaf. The feeding, however, removes nutrients from the plant, resulting in stunting, poor growth, defoliation, reduced yields, and sometimes death.
Life Cycle
Whiteflies are closely related to scales, mealybugs, and aphids. They undergo complete metamorphosis with all life stages present at any time. Eggs are laid on the underside of the leaves. One female can lay about 200 to 400 eggs. They are usually laid in cigar- or circle-shaped clusters of 30 to 40 eggs. The eggs hatch in about a week into nymphs or crawlers. The crawlers wander about the plant and insert their mouth parts to feed on plant sap. When they molt, they lose their antennae and attach themselves to the underside of the leaves where they continue to feed until they pupate. Adults emerge and are about 1/10 to 1/16 inch long and look like a small white moth. The adult has four wings that are covered with a white, powdery, waxy substance. Within a population, all life stages are present, and generations often overlap. The life cycle takes only 18 days.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Inspection. Inspect all new plants brought indoors for whitefly. Inspect regularly, and remove by hand older leaves that are heavily infested with whiteflies in a non-mobile nymphal stage. Isolate new plants for a few days before placing them among other plants.
2. Mechanical control. The use of traps can be very helpful in controlling light infestations. Make yellow sticky traps about 12 x 6 inches and coat them with a sticky substance such as Tanglefoot, petroleum jelly, or heavy grade motor oil. Hang the traps vertically near the affected plants. The adults are attracted to yellow. Traps are also commercially available. One trap for every couple plants is recommended.
3. Chemical control. Whiteflies have developed resistance to some chemicals. Because of this resistance, a certain product may work well in one area but not in another. Resistance may be delayed by alternating the types of chemicals used. In addition, the egg and non-feeding pupa stages are generally not as susceptible to insecticides as are the adults and nymphs. Consequently, eradication of a whitefly population usually requires four to five applications of a registered insecticide at five to seven day intervals. Be sure the applications are made to the lower leaf surface, and apply as soon as whiteflies are detected. Do not wait until populations become severe.
Some of the over-the-counter chemicals that could be used contain permethrin or pyrethrins. Insecticidal soap, petroleum oil, and insect growth regulators can also be effective.
Before using any insecticide for whitefly control, make sure that the target plant is listed on the label and that the chemical is approved for use indoors. Follow label directions carefully.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Thrips are small (1/5th inch), fringe-winged, pale-colored insects. Normally, they are responsible for negligible problems on houseplants, but plants in the Gesneriaceae family (African violet) and Commelinaceae family (Wandering Jew) are prone to attack.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Thrips are rarely seen because of their small size. The insects feed by puncturing the surface of the plant parts with their single large mandible and slurping the plant juices that seep from the wound. Flowers or leaves may develop silvery streaks. Heavily infested leaves appear brownish or silvery, and growing points may become contorted. Some species of thrips leave sooty spots of black fecal matter on the leaves. Thrips also vector plant diseases. Light blue cards coated with a thin film of oil suspended within two feet above indoor plants can be used as indicator traps. Winged adults caught on the card indicate the presence of thrips.
Life Cycle
Female thrips lay their eggs in tiny slits cut into the surface of leaves, flowers, and stems. The eggs can be laid any time of year and hatch within a few days in warm, indoor conditions. The young, called nymphs, are cream to pale green and only visible with magnification. They feed for 7–14 days. Fullgrown nymphs, in most species, drop off the plant to the soil where they burrow down and pupate. Winged adults emerge to complete the cycle.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Keep plants moist. Plants that are kept too dry are more likely to be damaged by thrips. To limit damage or reduce future damage after other initial control measures are used, keep plants moist and increase humidity.
2. Insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps, which are considered nontoxic to humans and pets, give good control. Be sure that flowers and growing tips are well covered with the spray. Frequent sprays may be needed until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior horticultural oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or horticultural oils will also control thrips. The oil suffocates the insects. These oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to some plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Sprays containing pyrethrins, a plant-derived insecticide, are effective and more benign than other chemical pesticides. Follow label directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Thrips are rarely seen because of their small size. The insects feed by puncturing the surface of the plant parts with their single large mandible and slurping the plant juices that seep from the wound. Flowers or leaves may develop silvery streaks. Heavily infested leaves appear brownish or silvery, and growing points may become contorted. Some species of thrips leave sooty spots of black fecal matter on the leaves. Thrips also vector plant diseases. Light blue cards coated with a thin film of oil suspended within two feet above indoor plants can be used as indicator traps. Winged adults caught on the card indicate the presence of thrips.
Life Cycle
Female thrips lay their eggs in tiny slits cut into the surface of leaves, flowers, and stems. The eggs can be laid any time of year and hatch within a few days in warm, indoor conditions. The young, called nymphs, are cream to pale green and only visible with magnification. They feed for 7–14 days. Fullgrown nymphs, in most species, drop off the plant to the soil where they burrow down and pupate. Winged adults emerge to complete the cycle.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Keep plants moist. Plants that are kept too dry are more likely to be damaged by thrips. To limit damage or reduce future damage after other initial control measures are used, keep plants moist and increase humidity.
2. Insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps, which are considered nontoxic to humans and pets, give good control. Be sure that flowers and growing tips are well covered with the spray. Frequent sprays may be needed until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior horticultural oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or horticultural oils will also control thrips. The oil suffocates the insects. These oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to some plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Sprays containing pyrethrins, a plant-derived insecticide, are effective and more benign than other chemical pesticides. Follow label directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Although most problems associated with cacti and succulents grown as houseplants are bacterial or fungal diseases caused by overwatering, they do get the occasional insect pest. The most common pests are scale, mealy bugs and root mealy bugs. Less common pests include spider mites and fungus gnats. Control of these pests is difficult because they are small and hide in places that make them hard to see, because they have a cottony or hard covering to protect them or because they have developed a resistance to insecticides.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Mealybugs and scale both damage plants by sucking plant juices resulting in plants that are weak with wrinkled, shriveled leaves. Severe infestations may result in the death of the plant. Often the first symptom of a problem is stickiness or black mold on or near the plant. More careful examination will reveal the actual insect.
Scale insects resemble small cottony or dome-shaped shells. They are attached to stems and leaves but can be scraped or pried off.
Mealybugs are 1/5 to 1/3 inch long, and have a waxy, white, cottony appearance. They are slow moving and usually are in clusters along leaf veins or spines, on the underside of leaves, and in hidden areas at joints. Root mealy bugs live in the soil and look like white deposits on the roots. In addition to the damage caused by sucking juices from the roots, root mealy bugs make the plant more susceptible to rot from bacterial and fungal infections.
Fungus gnats are 1/8 to 1/16-inch long black flies that resemble mosquitoes. They are most often seen hovering above the soil surface. Adult flies do not cause any damage but the larva live in the soil consuming organic matter and roots. Large plants are usually not affected by the root damage but seedlings may be stunted or killed.
Spider mites also damage cacti and succulents by sucking the plant’s juices. The first sign of spider mites is usually webbing and small brown dots, especially on younger growth, where the plant's epidermis has been damaged. Spider mites are very small, only about 1/50 of an inch long, and will look like dust when the affected area is tapped over a piece of paper.
Life Cycle
Consult the following IPM pages for detailed information on the life cycle of these pests:
Mealybugs, Scale, Spider mites and Fungus gnats.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Practice good cultural techniques. A healthy plant is better able to overcome insect damage. Be sure to grow your cacti and succulents in the conditions recommended for the species including proper sunlight, water and drainage. Practice good hygiene by keeping the pots free of dead leaves and spent flowers.
2. Quarantine new plants. To ensure that you do not introduce pests to your healthy plants, check new plants carefully and quarantine them until you are sure they are pest-free. If you do find pests on new plants, treat the problem immediately or discard the plant.
3. Wash mealybugs and spider mites off the plant with a strong stream of water. Cover the soil in the pot to prevent overwatering or to keep the soil from washing away. Spider mites are most troublesome in spots with low humidity and poor ventilation. Root mealy bugs may also be washed away if they are noticed on the roots when repotting the plant.
4. Remove mealybugs and scale using cotton swabs dipped in alcohol. Spraying the plant with a dilute alcohol solution (1:3) may help control pests that are not easily visible but the solution may damage the epidermis of sensitive cacti and succulents. Test a small area before spraying the entire plant.
5. Use yellow sticky traps to control adult fungus gnats.
6. Use insecticidal soap but be aware that it may damage some plants. Cacti have oils and waxes that may make them susceptible to damage from the soap. Be sure to read the product’s label to see if it is safe for your plant. It is a good idea to test a small area of the plant before spraying the entire plant.
7. Use insecticides such as Neem or pyrethrins. Always check the label to be sure it is safe for your plant.
8. Use a systemic insecticide such as imidacloprid or acephate to control pests that are not easily accessible to sprays. Be sure to read the product’s label to see if it is safe for your plant.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Mealybugs and scale both damage plants by sucking plant juices resulting in plants that are weak with wrinkled, shriveled leaves. Severe infestations may result in the death of the plant. Often the first symptom of a problem is stickiness or black mold on or near the plant. More careful examination will reveal the actual insect.
Scale insects resemble small cottony or dome-shaped shells. They are attached to stems and leaves but can be scraped or pried off.
Mealybugs are 1/5 to 1/3 inch long, and have a waxy, white, cottony appearance. They are slow moving and usually are in clusters along leaf veins or spines, on the underside of leaves, and in hidden areas at joints. Root mealy bugs live in the soil and look like white deposits on the roots. In addition to the damage caused by sucking juices from the roots, root mealy bugs make the plant more susceptible to rot from bacterial and fungal infections.
Fungus gnats are 1/8 to 1/16-inch long black flies that resemble mosquitoes. They are most often seen hovering above the soil surface. Adult flies do not cause any damage but the larva live in the soil consuming organic matter and roots. Large plants are usually not affected by the root damage but seedlings may be stunted or killed.
Spider mites also damage cacti and succulents by sucking the plant’s juices. The first sign of spider mites is usually webbing and small brown dots, especially on younger growth, where the plant's epidermis has been damaged. Spider mites are very small, only about 1/50 of an inch long, and will look like dust when the affected area is tapped over a piece of paper.
Life Cycle
Consult the following IPM pages for detailed information on the life cycle of these pests:
Mealybugs, Scale, Spider mites and Fungus gnats.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Practice good cultural techniques. A healthy plant is better able to overcome insect damage. Be sure to grow your cacti and succulents in the conditions recommended for the species including proper sunlight, water and drainage. Practice good hygiene by keeping the pots free of dead leaves and spent flowers.
2. Quarantine new plants. To ensure that you do not introduce pests to your healthy plants, check new plants carefully and quarantine them until you are sure they are pest-free. If you do find pests on new plants, treat the problem immediately or discard the plant.
3. Wash mealybugs and spider mites off the plant with a strong stream of water. Cover the soil in the pot to prevent overwatering or to keep the soil from washing away. Spider mites are most troublesome in spots with low humidity and poor ventilation. Root mealy bugs may also be washed away if they are noticed on the roots when repotting the plant.
4. Remove mealybugs and scale using cotton swabs dipped in alcohol. Spraying the plant with a dilute alcohol solution (1:3) may help control pests that are not easily visible but the solution may damage the epidermis of sensitive cacti and succulents. Test a small area before spraying the entire plant.
5. Use yellow sticky traps to control adult fungus gnats.
6. Use insecticidal soap but be aware that it may damage some plants. Cacti have oils and waxes that may make them susceptible to damage from the soap. Be sure to read the product’s label to see if it is safe for your plant. It is a good idea to test a small area of the plant before spraying the entire plant.
7. Use insecticides such as Neem or pyrethrins. Always check the label to be sure it is safe for your plant.
8. Use a systemic insecticide such as imidacloprid or acephate to control pests that are not easily accessible to sprays. Be sure to read the product’s label to see if it is safe for your plant.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Small black flies around 2mm long run over the soil surface or fly slowly around houseplants, pot plants and borders. Larvae are small translucent worms, up to 1cm long. They are harder to see but can be found in the immediate area under the soil around the roots. When infestations are heavy, there may be shiny silken threads on the top of the soil.
Plants affected
Fungus gnats attack the roots of virtually all houseplants, pot and border plants including vegetables, ornamentals, fruits, fungi and even weeds.
About Black fungus gnats
Fungus gnats are small flies around 2mm long, which are usually black in colour.
They are extremely common pests, usually present around most house and greenhouse plants.
There will be many overlapping generations all year round on indoor plants.
Each female fungus gnat can lay up to two hundred microscopic eggs after mating.
Eggs are laid into soil around the base of the plant, and hatch after five to seven days.
The larvae are no more than 1mm long when they first emerge, but can grow to ten times that before pupating.
The larvae are difficult to see with the naked eye due to their small size and translucent bodies.
They will hide beneath the soil surface where it is moist, and feed mostly on dead organic matter but can damage seedlings and the base of soft cuttings.
Larvae can also survive on patches of mould on greenhouse floors and benches.
At room temperature, newly hatched larvae will develop into adults in 20 to 25 days.
During hotter times of the year in greenhouses, the lifecycle can be as short as one to two weeks.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Black fungus gnats
Pyrethroids and Pyrethrin
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Place sticky traps between and around the base of plants to catch adults.
For indoor plants, the predatory mite Hypoaspis can be applied to the soil. The mites inhabit the just area under the soil surface where fungus gnats pupate.
Water the parasitic nematodes Steinernema feltiae into infested soil. These naturally occurring parasites will infect fungus gnat larvae with bacteria and kill them.
Letting the soil dry out partially may help to reduce the larval population in pots.
Prevention
Practice good plant hygiene by removing any old, dead leaves and fungal growth from the top of pots.
Water plants only when required to prevent the build up of fungal growths.
Cover the surface of pots with sand as a barrier against egg laying females.
Plants affected
Fungus gnats attack the roots of virtually all houseplants, pot and border plants including vegetables, ornamentals, fruits, fungi and even weeds.
About Black fungus gnats
Fungus gnats are small flies around 2mm long, which are usually black in colour.
They are extremely common pests, usually present around most house and greenhouse plants.
There will be many overlapping generations all year round on indoor plants.
Each female fungus gnat can lay up to two hundred microscopic eggs after mating.
Eggs are laid into soil around the base of the plant, and hatch after five to seven days.
The larvae are no more than 1mm long when they first emerge, but can grow to ten times that before pupating.
The larvae are difficult to see with the naked eye due to their small size and translucent bodies.
They will hide beneath the soil surface where it is moist, and feed mostly on dead organic matter but can damage seedlings and the base of soft cuttings.
Larvae can also survive on patches of mould on greenhouse floors and benches.
At room temperature, newly hatched larvae will develop into adults in 20 to 25 days.
During hotter times of the year in greenhouses, the lifecycle can be as short as one to two weeks.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Black fungus gnats
Pyrethroids and Pyrethrin
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Place sticky traps between and around the base of plants to catch adults.
For indoor plants, the predatory mite Hypoaspis can be applied to the soil. The mites inhabit the just area under the soil surface where fungus gnats pupate.
Water the parasitic nematodes Steinernema feltiae into infested soil. These naturally occurring parasites will infect fungus gnat larvae with bacteria and kill them.
Letting the soil dry out partially may help to reduce the larval population in pots.
Prevention
Practice good plant hygiene by removing any old, dead leaves and fungal growth from the top of pots.
Water plants only when required to prevent the build up of fungal growths.
Cover the surface of pots with sand as a barrier against egg laying females.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Common on backyard trees, ornamental shrubs, greenhouse plants and houseplants, over 1,000 species of scale insects exist in North America. They are such oddly shaped and immobile pests that they often resemble shell-like bumps rather than insects. In many cases, heavy infestations build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage. Large populations may result in poor growth, reduced vigor and chlorotic (yellowed) leaves. If left unchecked, an infested host may become so weak that it dies.
Scale insects can be divided into two groups:
Armored (Hard) – Secrete a hard protective covering (1/8 inch long) over themselves, which is not attached to the body. The hard scale lives and feeds under this spherical armor and does not move about the plant. They do not secrete honeydew.
Soft – Secrete a waxy film (up to 1/2 inch long) that is part of the body. In most cases, they are able to move short distances (but rarely do) and produce copious amounts of honeydew. Soft scale vary in shape from flat to almost spherical.
Life Cycle
Adult females lay eggs underneath their protective covering which hatch over a period of one to three weeks. The newly hatched nymphs (called crawlers) migrate out from this covering and move about the plant until a suitable feeding site is found. Young nymphs insert their piercing mouthparts into the plant and begin to feed, gradually developing their own armor as they transform into immobile adults. They do not pupate and may have several overlapping generations per year, especially in greenhouses.
Note: Males of many species develop wings as adults and appear as tiny gnat-like insects. They are rarely seen and do not feed on plants. Females often reproduce without mating.
Control
To get rid of scale insects prune and dispose of infested branches, twigs and leaves.
When scale numbers are low they may be rubbed or picked off of plants by hand.
Dabbing individual pests with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab or neem-based leaf shine will also work when infestations are light.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing, are natural predators of the young larval or “crawler” stage.
Organic pesticides, like insecticidal soap and d-Limonene can also be used to kill the larvae. However, these products have very little persistence in the environment, so several applications during egg-hatching will be required for effective control.
Azamax contains azadirachtin, the key insecticidal ingredient found in neem oil. This concentrated spray is approved for organic use and offers multiple modes of action, making it virtually impossible for pest resistance to develop. Best of all, it’s non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.
Horticultural oils and other safe, oil-based insecticides work by smothering insects and will control all pest stages, including adults which are protected from most other insecticides by their armor coverings.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
Scale insects can be divided into two groups:
Armored (Hard) – Secrete a hard protective covering (1/8 inch long) over themselves, which is not attached to the body. The hard scale lives and feeds under this spherical armor and does not move about the plant. They do not secrete honeydew.
Soft – Secrete a waxy film (up to 1/2 inch long) that is part of the body. In most cases, they are able to move short distances (but rarely do) and produce copious amounts of honeydew. Soft scale vary in shape from flat to almost spherical.
Life Cycle
Adult females lay eggs underneath their protective covering which hatch over a period of one to three weeks. The newly hatched nymphs (called crawlers) migrate out from this covering and move about the plant until a suitable feeding site is found. Young nymphs insert their piercing mouthparts into the plant and begin to feed, gradually developing their own armor as they transform into immobile adults. They do not pupate and may have several overlapping generations per year, especially in greenhouses.
Note: Males of many species develop wings as adults and appear as tiny gnat-like insects. They are rarely seen and do not feed on plants. Females often reproduce without mating.
Control
To get rid of scale insects prune and dispose of infested branches, twigs and leaves.
When scale numbers are low they may be rubbed or picked off of plants by hand.
Dabbing individual pests with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab or neem-based leaf shine will also work when infestations are light.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing, are natural predators of the young larval or “crawler” stage.
Organic pesticides, like insecticidal soap and d-Limonene can also be used to kill the larvae. However, these products have very little persistence in the environment, so several applications during egg-hatching will be required for effective control.
Azamax contains azadirachtin, the key insecticidal ingredient found in neem oil. This concentrated spray is approved for organic use and offers multiple modes of action, making it virtually impossible for pest resistance to develop. Best of all, it’s non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.
Horticultural oils and other safe, oil-based insecticides work by smothering insects and will control all pest stages, including adults which are protected from most other insecticides by their armor coverings.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Common on houseplants and in greenhouses, the whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum) is a sap-sucking insect that is often found in thick crowds on the undersides of leaves. When infested plants are disturbed, great clouds of the winged adults fly into the air. Both nymphs and adults damage plants by sucking the juices from new growth causing stunted growth, leaf yellowing and reduced yields. Plants become weak and susceptible to disease. Like aphids, whiteflies secrete honeydew, so leaves maybe sticky or covered with a black sooty mold. They are also responsible for transmitting several plant viruses.
In southern and coastal states whiteflies are found year-round in outdoor gardens. In northern areas year-round infestations are possible only indoors. Host plants include more than 250 ornamental and vegetable plants. Citrus, squash, poinsettia, potato, cucumber, grape, tomato and hibiscus are commonly infested.
Adults (1/16 inch long) are moth-like insects with powdery white wings and short antenna. They are easily recognized and often found near the tops of plants or on stem ends. Wingless nymphs are flattened, oval and almost scale-like in appearance. After the first instar, or crawler stage, they settle down and attach themselves to the underside of leaves and begin feeding.
Life Cycle
Young nymphs overwinter on the leaves of host plants. In late spring adult females deposit 200-400 eggs in circular clusters on the undersides of upper leaves. The eggs hatch in 5-10 days and first instar nymphs, which resemble small mealybugs and are called crawlers, move a short distance from the egg before flattening themselves against the leaf to feed. The remaining nymphal stages (2nd, 3rd and 4th) do not move. A non-feeding pupal stage follows and within a week, young adults emerge to repeat the cycle. There are many generations per year. Whiteflies develop from egg to adult in approximately 25 days at room temperature. Adults may live for one to two months.
Note: All of the immature stages are easily overlooked. They are usually pale, almost translucent, and blend with the color of the leaf to which they are attached. Superficially they are similar to several scale insects.
Whitefly Control
Yellow sticky traps are helpful for monitoring and suppressing adult populations.
If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
Natural predators of this pest include ladybugs and lacewing larvae, which feed on their eggs and the whitefly parasite which destroys nymphs and pupae. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived organic pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Safer® Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Organic Neem Oil can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adults. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
In southern and coastal states whiteflies are found year-round in outdoor gardens. In northern areas year-round infestations are possible only indoors. Host plants include more than 250 ornamental and vegetable plants. Citrus, squash, poinsettia, potato, cucumber, grape, tomato and hibiscus are commonly infested.
Adults (1/16 inch long) are moth-like insects with powdery white wings and short antenna. They are easily recognized and often found near the tops of plants or on stem ends. Wingless nymphs are flattened, oval and almost scale-like in appearance. After the first instar, or crawler stage, they settle down and attach themselves to the underside of leaves and begin feeding.
Life Cycle
Young nymphs overwinter on the leaves of host plants. In late spring adult females deposit 200-400 eggs in circular clusters on the undersides of upper leaves. The eggs hatch in 5-10 days and first instar nymphs, which resemble small mealybugs and are called crawlers, move a short distance from the egg before flattening themselves against the leaf to feed. The remaining nymphal stages (2nd, 3rd and 4th) do not move. A non-feeding pupal stage follows and within a week, young adults emerge to repeat the cycle. There are many generations per year. Whiteflies develop from egg to adult in approximately 25 days at room temperature. Adults may live for one to two months.
Note: All of the immature stages are easily overlooked. They are usually pale, almost translucent, and blend with the color of the leaf to which they are attached. Superficially they are similar to several scale insects.
Whitefly Control
Yellow sticky traps are helpful for monitoring and suppressing adult populations.
If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
Natural predators of this pest include ladybugs and lacewing larvae, which feed on their eggs and the whitefly parasite which destroys nymphs and pupae. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived organic pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Safer® Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Organic Neem Oil can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adults. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Leaf tip browning is an annoying condition that commonly affects certain types of houseplants. Spider plants, tropical plants, and those with long, strappy leaves are especially susceptible. The main difficulty when confronting leaf tip burn is to remember that it's a symptom of a larger problem (usually a cultural issue), as opposed to a condition in itself. So once your plant has burned leaf tips or margins, there's no way to reverse the damage at that wounded location.
The only thing to do is correct the underlying problem and hope the plant continues its healthy growth.
The other problem with a leaf-tip burn is figuring out which of the possible factors may be causing it. Is it the water? Your fertilizer habits? The humidity? You might not know right away, so the best idea is, to begin with, the most likely condition, change it to the extent possible, and wait to see what happens. If new growth is unaffected or the scorching stops, you've figured it out. If it continues, then move on to the next condition and work on that.
Ideally, you'll catch leaf-tip burn early enough that the plant's appearance won't be completely ruined.
These are the factors that can potentially cause leaf-tip burn:
Watering issues. Leaf scorching can be a sign of erratic or insufficient watering or low humidity. It is especially true for tropical plants, which dislike the parched conditions in most centrally heated homes in the winter. These plants are evolved to luxuriate in humidity levels that range between 60 and 100 percent in their rainforest homes. A winter-time home can easily go to 20% humidity, which can cause leaf scorching. The solution is to raise the humidity—mist the plants, use a pebble tray, or relocate the plant to an area with higher humidity such as the kitchen or bathroom. Also, remember that plants with strappy leaves have a greater challenge to move water from the roots to the ends of the leaves, so these plants are likely to show leaf-tip scorching faster than plants with shorter leaves. Finally, if you suspect your water is highly alkaline (a pH above 7), consider finding a more neutral water source. Plants prefer a slightly acidic environment.
Fertilizer issues. Fertilizer salts can cause leaf scorching, especially if large doses are fertilizer are applied. If you notice scorching on your plants shortly after feeding a heavy dose of fertilizer, it might be a problem with your fertilizer. Flush the soil with clean water several times to remove accumulated fertilizer salts and be more careful in the future.
Fluoride. The idea that fluoride can damage houseplants has taken off recently, but the truth is that fluoride damage is usually limited to plants in the Dracaena family. These plants are susceptible to fluoride damage over the long-term, so if you're experiencing leaf burn in a Dracaena species, switch to un-fluoridated water. If the plant isn't dracaena, it's unlikely that fluoride is the issue.
Cold damage. Closely related to water stress, many houseplants aren't acclimated to cold, drafty conditions (by a winter window, for instance). Cold damage often shows up in the extremities first, meaning the leaf margins and leaf tips. If your tropical plants suffer from leaf scorching during the winter months, try to raise the temperature (and humidity, most likely) around them.
Sun damage. Sun damage usually shows up as yellowing of the whole leaf, or even scorched spots on the leaves. Nevertheless, if your plant has recently been subjected to a change of direct light it's receiving, this could be the culprit.
Chemical damage. It is less likely to result in leaf-scorching, but it's possible. Household pesticides and cleaning chemicals can burn plants in some cases, so be aware of what you're using on your plants.
Ultimately, a leaf-tip burn is almost always a cultural problem—fungal and bacterial diseases are typically more widespread across the leaf surface and usually involve the stem as well. So the best way to correct leaf-tip burn and margin scorching is to ask what cultural conditions might be causing the condition, then making an effort to fix them.
The only thing to do is correct the underlying problem and hope the plant continues its healthy growth.
The other problem with a leaf-tip burn is figuring out which of the possible factors may be causing it. Is it the water? Your fertilizer habits? The humidity? You might not know right away, so the best idea is, to begin with, the most likely condition, change it to the extent possible, and wait to see what happens. If new growth is unaffected or the scorching stops, you've figured it out. If it continues, then move on to the next condition and work on that.
Ideally, you'll catch leaf-tip burn early enough that the plant's appearance won't be completely ruined.
These are the factors that can potentially cause leaf-tip burn:
Watering issues. Leaf scorching can be a sign of erratic or insufficient watering or low humidity. It is especially true for tropical plants, which dislike the parched conditions in most centrally heated homes in the winter. These plants are evolved to luxuriate in humidity levels that range between 60 and 100 percent in their rainforest homes. A winter-time home can easily go to 20% humidity, which can cause leaf scorching. The solution is to raise the humidity—mist the plants, use a pebble tray, or relocate the plant to an area with higher humidity such as the kitchen or bathroom. Also, remember that plants with strappy leaves have a greater challenge to move water from the roots to the ends of the leaves, so these plants are likely to show leaf-tip scorching faster than plants with shorter leaves. Finally, if you suspect your water is highly alkaline (a pH above 7), consider finding a more neutral water source. Plants prefer a slightly acidic environment.
Fertilizer issues. Fertilizer salts can cause leaf scorching, especially if large doses are fertilizer are applied. If you notice scorching on your plants shortly after feeding a heavy dose of fertilizer, it might be a problem with your fertilizer. Flush the soil with clean water several times to remove accumulated fertilizer salts and be more careful in the future.
Fluoride. The idea that fluoride can damage houseplants has taken off recently, but the truth is that fluoride damage is usually limited to plants in the Dracaena family. These plants are susceptible to fluoride damage over the long-term, so if you're experiencing leaf burn in a Dracaena species, switch to un-fluoridated water. If the plant isn't dracaena, it's unlikely that fluoride is the issue.
Cold damage. Closely related to water stress, many houseplants aren't acclimated to cold, drafty conditions (by a winter window, for instance). Cold damage often shows up in the extremities first, meaning the leaf margins and leaf tips. If your tropical plants suffer from leaf scorching during the winter months, try to raise the temperature (and humidity, most likely) around them.
Sun damage. Sun damage usually shows up as yellowing of the whole leaf, or even scorched spots on the leaves. Nevertheless, if your plant has recently been subjected to a change of direct light it's receiving, this could be the culprit.
Chemical damage. It is less likely to result in leaf-scorching, but it's possible. Household pesticides and cleaning chemicals can burn plants in some cases, so be aware of what you're using on your plants.
Ultimately, a leaf-tip burn is almost always a cultural problem—fungal and bacterial diseases are typically more widespread across the leaf surface and usually involve the stem as well. So the best way to correct leaf-tip burn and margin scorching is to ask what cultural conditions might be causing the condition, then making an effort to fix them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Opuntia is the largest genus in the cactus family. You will recognize most by their classic “prickly pear” appearance. There are many types of Opuntia cactus that are common houseplants and are known for their jointed stems and flattened pads. All varieties of Opuntia are easy to grow provided there is ample light, well-drained soil and warm temperatures during the growing season. In warmer climates, growing Opuntia in gardens adds desert appeal and unique flora to the landscape.
Different Varieties of Opuntia
Cactus provide numerous textures and forms for the fun dish garden or as standalone specimens. Opuntia, with their many varied species, are readily available and have a classic form that calls to mind open desert and searing sun. The genus can be found wild across North and South Americas, the Caribbean, Argentina and even as far north as Canada. Interestingly, Opuntia freely hybridize, leading to new species and hybrid crosses. In the U.S. there are 40 recognized species.
Most Opuntia species do not have classic spines but an arrangement called glochids. These are fine, detachable and fuzzy to woolly. If you touch them, you will immediately wish you hadn’t, as they are extremely irritable and difficult to remove. In spite of this detriment, Opuntia are extremely appealing and easy to grow. Some types of Opuntia cactus do have large spines, however. Flowers are cup shaped and may be yellow, white, or pink. These may develop into fruits of red or green. Some Opuntia cactus varieties have edible fruits called “tunas.” These can be made into delicious jam or even candy. The flat pads of the cactus are called cladodes. These pads are also edible and called “nopales.” Some fun Opuntia to grow might include:
Purple prickly pear
Barbary fig
Tulip prickly pear
Bunny ears prickly pear
Violet prickly pear
Pancake prickly pear
Beaver tail pear
Growing Opuntia Cacti
The one thing Opuntia cannot stand is soggy soil. Soil needs to drain freely and have a high amount of gritty material mixed in. For outdoor plants, choose a sunny location with protection from winter winds. Fertilize monthly with a 0-10-10 to help produce flowers and fruits. Opuntia, once established, will tolerate as much water as necessary to keep pads from wrinkling. During the winter, diminish watering by half, as the plant will be in dormancy. Established cacti can have pads harvested 6 times per year. Use clean, sharp knives for harvesting. Take pads from mid-morning to midafternoon when the acid content is lowest for best flavor. “Tunas” are ripe at the end of summer. To harvest fruits, wait until the glochids fall off and then gently twist and pull. Ripe fruit should come off easily.
Propagating Opuntia
The cactus is easy to grow from seed but its slow progression means fully sized specimens will take years. For faster production, try growing Opuntia cacti from pads. Cut a pad that is at least 6 months old and allow the cut end to dry out a bit or callus. If you wish, dip the end in Bordeaux mix or brush on an anti-fungal dust. Make a mixture of equal parts sand or pumice and soil. Settle the pad an inch or so deep into this mixture with rocks or stakes around to hold it upright. Do not water until the pad has sent out roots, usually in a month. Then water the plant but let it dry out between successive waterings. Your new plant will flower and set fruit during the first year. Limit the number of pads you take from the plant for at least a year.
Different Varieties of Opuntia
Cactus provide numerous textures and forms for the fun dish garden or as standalone specimens. Opuntia, with their many varied species, are readily available and have a classic form that calls to mind open desert and searing sun. The genus can be found wild across North and South Americas, the Caribbean, Argentina and even as far north as Canada. Interestingly, Opuntia freely hybridize, leading to new species and hybrid crosses. In the U.S. there are 40 recognized species.
Most Opuntia species do not have classic spines but an arrangement called glochids. These are fine, detachable and fuzzy to woolly. If you touch them, you will immediately wish you hadn’t, as they are extremely irritable and difficult to remove. In spite of this detriment, Opuntia are extremely appealing and easy to grow. Some types of Opuntia cactus do have large spines, however. Flowers are cup shaped and may be yellow, white, or pink. These may develop into fruits of red or green. Some Opuntia cactus varieties have edible fruits called “tunas.” These can be made into delicious jam or even candy. The flat pads of the cactus are called cladodes. These pads are also edible and called “nopales.” Some fun Opuntia to grow might include:
Purple prickly pear
Barbary fig
Tulip prickly pear
Bunny ears prickly pear
Violet prickly pear
Pancake prickly pear
Beaver tail pear
Growing Opuntia Cacti
The one thing Opuntia cannot stand is soggy soil. Soil needs to drain freely and have a high amount of gritty material mixed in. For outdoor plants, choose a sunny location with protection from winter winds. Fertilize monthly with a 0-10-10 to help produce flowers and fruits. Opuntia, once established, will tolerate as much water as necessary to keep pads from wrinkling. During the winter, diminish watering by half, as the plant will be in dormancy. Established cacti can have pads harvested 6 times per year. Use clean, sharp knives for harvesting. Take pads from mid-morning to midafternoon when the acid content is lowest for best flavor. “Tunas” are ripe at the end of summer. To harvest fruits, wait until the glochids fall off and then gently twist and pull. Ripe fruit should come off easily.
Propagating Opuntia
The cactus is easy to grow from seed but its slow progression means fully sized specimens will take years. For faster production, try growing Opuntia cacti from pads. Cut a pad that is at least 6 months old and allow the cut end to dry out a bit or callus. If you wish, dip the end in Bordeaux mix or brush on an anti-fungal dust. Make a mixture of equal parts sand or pumice and soil. Settle the pad an inch or so deep into this mixture with rocks or stakes around to hold it upright. Do not water until the pad has sent out roots, usually in a month. Then water the plant but let it dry out between successive waterings. Your new plant will flower and set fruit during the first year. Limit the number of pads you take from the plant for at least a year.
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