文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Coffee plants produce not only the all important coffee bean, but they make terrific houseplants too. In their native tropical habitat, coffee plants grow up to 15 feet or more, so pruning a coffee plant is integral when growing them indoors.
Information on Coffee Plants
Before we explore how to prune a coffee plant, a little background on Coffea arabica is in order. A member of the Ruiaceae family, one of 90 in the genus Coffea, coffee plant is an evergreen, perennial shrub with dark green, glossy leaves decorated with ruffled edges and pleasantly aromatic white blossoms. Grow this specimen as an attractive houseplant, or if you aren’t shy on patience, for its fruit, which will take about four years to produce anything approximating a decent cup of coffee.
Hailing from Southern Asia and tropical regions of Africa, temperatures should be kept at 70 F. (21 C.) or higher during daylight hours and in the mid to lower 60’s (15-20 C.) at night with a good dose of humidity. Make sure the plant has well-draining soil, filtered sun and moderate (never soggy) irrigation. Although coffee plants will produce fruit without fertilization, for the most optimal fruiting and quality, they should be fed every two weeks from March to October and thereafter each month. A soluble, all purpose type of fertilizer is recommended for use. Coffee plants can be obtained through most online nurseries. Purchase the cultivar Coffea arabica ‘Nana’ if you desire a plant with more compact growth, thus reducing the necessity and frequency of cutting back coffee plant.
How to Prune a Coffee Plant
Due to their ability to attain a height of between 10 and 15 feet, not manageable in most homes, pruning of coffee houseplants is a necessity, not an option. Never fear; pruning coffee plants indoors is a simple process. When cutting back coffee plant, remember this plant is very forgiving and pruning back harshly won’t harm the plant at all. When pruning a coffee plant on a commercial plantation, trees are kept down to an easy-to-harvest 6 feet. This may be too large for your home and may necessitate more severe pruning of coffee plants indoors. Pruning a coffee plant may only require minimal pinching of new growth or it may involve cutting the plant way back. Pinching back the plant will not only restrain the tree’s height, but will encourage a bushier appearance. Coffee plant should be pruned back during the spring months to maintain a fuller, bushy appearance and generally shape the plant. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, ¼-inch above where the leaf attaches to the stem (axil), paying attention to top growth to retard size. Remove any suckers at this time as well as any dead or dying limbs while leaving the largest branches.
Cuttings taken from the plant during pruning are difficult to propagate; however, if you want to make the attempt, use the young stems prior to hardening. Coffee plants make an easy, attractive plant that with a minimum of care you will be enjoying for many years.
Information on Coffee Plants
Before we explore how to prune a coffee plant, a little background on Coffea arabica is in order. A member of the Ruiaceae family, one of 90 in the genus Coffea, coffee plant is an evergreen, perennial shrub with dark green, glossy leaves decorated with ruffled edges and pleasantly aromatic white blossoms. Grow this specimen as an attractive houseplant, or if you aren’t shy on patience, for its fruit, which will take about four years to produce anything approximating a decent cup of coffee.
Hailing from Southern Asia and tropical regions of Africa, temperatures should be kept at 70 F. (21 C.) or higher during daylight hours and in the mid to lower 60’s (15-20 C.) at night with a good dose of humidity. Make sure the plant has well-draining soil, filtered sun and moderate (never soggy) irrigation. Although coffee plants will produce fruit without fertilization, for the most optimal fruiting and quality, they should be fed every two weeks from March to October and thereafter each month. A soluble, all purpose type of fertilizer is recommended for use. Coffee plants can be obtained through most online nurseries. Purchase the cultivar Coffea arabica ‘Nana’ if you desire a plant with more compact growth, thus reducing the necessity and frequency of cutting back coffee plant.
How to Prune a Coffee Plant
Due to their ability to attain a height of between 10 and 15 feet, not manageable in most homes, pruning of coffee houseplants is a necessity, not an option. Never fear; pruning coffee plants indoors is a simple process. When cutting back coffee plant, remember this plant is very forgiving and pruning back harshly won’t harm the plant at all. When pruning a coffee plant on a commercial plantation, trees are kept down to an easy-to-harvest 6 feet. This may be too large for your home and may necessitate more severe pruning of coffee plants indoors. Pruning a coffee plant may only require minimal pinching of new growth or it may involve cutting the plant way back. Pinching back the plant will not only restrain the tree’s height, but will encourage a bushier appearance. Coffee plant should be pruned back during the spring months to maintain a fuller, bushy appearance and generally shape the plant. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, ¼-inch above where the leaf attaches to the stem (axil), paying attention to top growth to retard size. Remove any suckers at this time as well as any dead or dying limbs while leaving the largest branches.
Cuttings taken from the plant during pruning are difficult to propagate; however, if you want to make the attempt, use the young stems prior to hardening. Coffee plants make an easy, attractive plant that with a minimum of care you will be enjoying for many years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
While most houseplants require a bit of effort in providing appropriate growing conditions (light, temperature, humidity, etc.), growing Chinese evergreens can make even the novice indoor gardener look like an expert. This tropical foliage plant is one of the most durable houseplants you can grow, tolerating poor light, dry air and drought.
Tips for Growing Chinese Evergreens Indoors
Growing Chinese evergreens (Aglaonema) is easy. This gem of a plant is one of the most popular houseplants grown in the home due to its ease of care. You can find Chinese evergreen plants in many varieties, including variegated forms. Although they are tolerant of many growing conditions, following certain recommendations will yield greater results. This includes placing them in well-draining soil, preferably an equal mix of potting soil, perlite and sand. Chinese evergreen plants thrive in medium to low light conditions, or indirect sunlight. Wherever you place it in the home, you should make sure that the plant receives warm temps and somewhat humid conditions. However, this flexible plant will tolerate less than ideal conditions if necessary. These plants prefer temperatures no lower than 60 F. (16 C.) with average indoor temps ranging between 70-72 F. (21-22 C.) being most favorable, but they can tolerate temps around 50-55 F.(10-13 C.). Keep Chinese evergreen plants away from drafts, which can cause browning of the foliage.
Chinese Evergreen Care
Caring for Chinese evergreen houseplants requires little effort when given the proper growing conditions. They enjoy moderate watering—not too much, not too little. Allow the plant to dry out some between watering. Overwatering will lead to root rot. As part of your Chinese evergreen care, you should fertilize older Chinese evergreens once or twice yearly using a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer. If your Chinese evergreen plant becomes too large or leggy, give the plant a quick trim. It’s also possible to save cuttings during the process for propagating new plants. Cuttings root easily in water. Older plants will sometimes produce flowers reminiscent of calla or peace lilies. This occurs in spring to summer. Most people choose to cut the blooms prior to seed productions, though you may choose to keep them and try your hand at seed growing them. Keep in mind, however, that this will take much longer.
To limit the accumulation of dust build-up, clean the leaves occasionally by wiping them down with a soft, damp rag or simply place them in the shower and allow them to air dry. Chinese evergreen houseplants can be affected by spider mites, scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Routinely checking the leaves for signs of pests will help limit problems later. While it may seem overwhelming at first, especially if you are new at growing Chinese evergreens indoors, it’s actually easier than you may think.
Tips for Growing Chinese Evergreens Indoors
Growing Chinese evergreens (Aglaonema) is easy. This gem of a plant is one of the most popular houseplants grown in the home due to its ease of care. You can find Chinese evergreen plants in many varieties, including variegated forms. Although they are tolerant of many growing conditions, following certain recommendations will yield greater results. This includes placing them in well-draining soil, preferably an equal mix of potting soil, perlite and sand. Chinese evergreen plants thrive in medium to low light conditions, or indirect sunlight. Wherever you place it in the home, you should make sure that the plant receives warm temps and somewhat humid conditions. However, this flexible plant will tolerate less than ideal conditions if necessary. These plants prefer temperatures no lower than 60 F. (16 C.) with average indoor temps ranging between 70-72 F. (21-22 C.) being most favorable, but they can tolerate temps around 50-55 F.(10-13 C.). Keep Chinese evergreen plants away from drafts, which can cause browning of the foliage.
Chinese Evergreen Care
Caring for Chinese evergreen houseplants requires little effort when given the proper growing conditions. They enjoy moderate watering—not too much, not too little. Allow the plant to dry out some between watering. Overwatering will lead to root rot. As part of your Chinese evergreen care, you should fertilize older Chinese evergreens once or twice yearly using a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer. If your Chinese evergreen plant becomes too large or leggy, give the plant a quick trim. It’s also possible to save cuttings during the process for propagating new plants. Cuttings root easily in water. Older plants will sometimes produce flowers reminiscent of calla or peace lilies. This occurs in spring to summer. Most people choose to cut the blooms prior to seed productions, though you may choose to keep them and try your hand at seed growing them. Keep in mind, however, that this will take much longer.
To limit the accumulation of dust build-up, clean the leaves occasionally by wiping them down with a soft, damp rag or simply place them in the shower and allow them to air dry. Chinese evergreen houseplants can be affected by spider mites, scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Routinely checking the leaves for signs of pests will help limit problems later. While it may seem overwhelming at first, especially if you are new at growing Chinese evergreens indoors, it’s actually easier than you may think.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Calceolaria’s nickname — pocketbook plant — is well chosen. The flowers on this annual plant have pouches at the bottom which resemble pocketbooks, purses or even slippers. You’ll find Calceolaria houseplants for sale in garden centers from Valentine’s Day until the end of April in the United States. Growing pocketbook plants isn’t very complicated as long as you remember that they like their environment cool and not too bright.
How to Grow Calceolaria Indoors
While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Calceolaria. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Pocketbook plant care works best when you try to imitate its native home. Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants. Pocketbook plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again. Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.
Pocketbook Plant Care Outdoors
Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart.
Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 F. (13-18 C.). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.
How to Grow Calceolaria Indoors
While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Calceolaria. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Pocketbook plant care works best when you try to imitate its native home. Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants. Pocketbook plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again. Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.
Pocketbook Plant Care Outdoors
Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart.
Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 F. (13-18 C.). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
When you have a bromeliad to care for, you might be wondering how to water a bromeliad. Watering bromeliads is no different than any other houseplant care; check your houseplants regularly for their soil being dry. Most plants need water when they are dry unless they are a picky plant, in which case, you should have some sort of direction as to how to handle the watering.
The Bromeliad Water Tank
Bromeliads grow in a many different conditions. When taking care of a bromeliad, water it well. The center of a bromeliad is called a tank or cup. This particular plant will hold water in its tank. Fill the tank in the center and don’t allow it to get empty. Don’t let the water sit for a long time or it will stagnate and possibly cause damage to the plant. Also, salt builds up so it’s best to flush it out. You will also need to change the water frequently, about once a week. Let the excess water drain in a drain pan or plate, and let the plant dry out before you decide to water it again.
Best Water for Bromeliads
If you can use it, rainwater is the best water for bromeliads because it is most natural. Distilled water also works well for watering bromeliads. Bromeliad water can also be tap water, but there may be a build up of salt and chemicals from tap water. Bromeliads are tough, carefree plants indoors. They provide color to a room and any problems you might encounter can be fixed pretty quick because the problems are usually caused by overwatering or failure to change the water. If your bromeliad is an outdoor plant, be sure to bring it in during freezing weather. If it freezes, there will be damage to the plant from the water in the tank.
Rewards for Watering Bromeliads
Healthy bromeliads come from being taken care of well. If you want to enjoy your plant for months and months, you want to be sure to take care of it. Remember that the water can be rainwater, filtered water or tap water, that watering bromeliads should be done when the soil is dry; and that how to water a bromeliad is not much different than watering any other houseplant.
The Bromeliad Water Tank
Bromeliads grow in a many different conditions. When taking care of a bromeliad, water it well. The center of a bromeliad is called a tank or cup. This particular plant will hold water in its tank. Fill the tank in the center and don’t allow it to get empty. Don’t let the water sit for a long time or it will stagnate and possibly cause damage to the plant. Also, salt builds up so it’s best to flush it out. You will also need to change the water frequently, about once a week. Let the excess water drain in a drain pan or plate, and let the plant dry out before you decide to water it again.
Best Water for Bromeliads
If you can use it, rainwater is the best water for bromeliads because it is most natural. Distilled water also works well for watering bromeliads. Bromeliad water can also be tap water, but there may be a build up of salt and chemicals from tap water. Bromeliads are tough, carefree plants indoors. They provide color to a room and any problems you might encounter can be fixed pretty quick because the problems are usually caused by overwatering or failure to change the water. If your bromeliad is an outdoor plant, be sure to bring it in during freezing weather. If it freezes, there will be damage to the plant from the water in the tank.
Rewards for Watering Bromeliads
Healthy bromeliads come from being taken care of well. If you want to enjoy your plant for months and months, you want to be sure to take care of it. Remember that the water can be rainwater, filtered water or tap water, that watering bromeliads should be done when the soil is dry; and that how to water a bromeliad is not much different than watering any other houseplant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliads can be found clinging to trees and cracks in cliffs in some regions. But even if you aren’t lucky enough to see them in their wild state, bromeliads are commonly grown as houseplants and easy to find at nurseries and garden centers. They usually come in bloom and the spectacular flower lasts a few weeks or up to a month. Do bromeliads only flower once? Yes. Getting bromeliads to bloom again isn’t possible, but the plant produces a next generation of bloomers called offsets that will.
Will Bromeliad Bloom Again?
Epiphytes are plants with gripping roots that hold the plant onto its chosen surface. This surface may be tree bark, rock or even cement. In indigenous terrain, you can see epiphytic bromeliads literally swinging from the trees. They produce fascinating and colorful flowers, called an inflorescence, surrounded by rosettes of thick green to silver leaves. Reblooming a bromeliad won’t work because they only produce one flower in the plant’s lifetime. Bromeliads grow in a rosette with a cup-like depression at the center. This depression is responsible for collecting nutrients and water. Unlike most plants, the roots of a bromeliad are mostly for adherence purposes and do not uptake the plant’s needs. Rainwater and dew fall into the cup and other plant litter, small insects and organic material end up in the depression, serving as a source of minerals. The rosette grows by adding new leaves in the center, which becomes impossible after the flower has bloomed. For this reason, increased growth is done through separate plantlets at the base, or offsets, and the adult bromeliad won’t flower again.
Getting Bromeliads to Bloom
Although the adult bromeliad won’t bloom, with a little tender loving care, those pups or offsets will flower eventually. First, they need their own home and some encouragement. Separate the offsets from the parent plant with a sharp, clean knife at the base. Leave the offset out on the counter for a day or two to callus before planting. Use a well draining soil mix. Keep the center of the bromeliad filled with water and add diluted liquid seaweed or diluted compost tea once every two weeks. This will encourage the young bromeliad to flourish and grow up so it can be ready to bloom. Only mature plants will flower, so a little patience is required when getting bromeliads to bloom from pups.
Forcing a Bromeliad to Bloom Sooner
Reblooming a bromeliad adult isn’t possible but a few tips will see those young offsets in bloom sooner. Add some dissolved Epsom salts to the cup once per month to encourage the production of chlorophyll and flowers. Forcing a bromeliad to bloom also requires an appropriate environment. Empty the depression in the plant and encase it in a large plastic bag accompanied by a slice of apple, kiwi or banana. These fruits give off ethylene gas, which will help force the plant into bloom. Keep the plant in the bag for 10 days and then remove the covering. The plant should bloom in six to 10 weeks with a little luck.
Will Bromeliad Bloom Again?
Epiphytes are plants with gripping roots that hold the plant onto its chosen surface. This surface may be tree bark, rock or even cement. In indigenous terrain, you can see epiphytic bromeliads literally swinging from the trees. They produce fascinating and colorful flowers, called an inflorescence, surrounded by rosettes of thick green to silver leaves. Reblooming a bromeliad won’t work because they only produce one flower in the plant’s lifetime. Bromeliads grow in a rosette with a cup-like depression at the center. This depression is responsible for collecting nutrients and water. Unlike most plants, the roots of a bromeliad are mostly for adherence purposes and do not uptake the plant’s needs. Rainwater and dew fall into the cup and other plant litter, small insects and organic material end up in the depression, serving as a source of minerals. The rosette grows by adding new leaves in the center, which becomes impossible after the flower has bloomed. For this reason, increased growth is done through separate plantlets at the base, or offsets, and the adult bromeliad won’t flower again.
Getting Bromeliads to Bloom
Although the adult bromeliad won’t bloom, with a little tender loving care, those pups or offsets will flower eventually. First, they need their own home and some encouragement. Separate the offsets from the parent plant with a sharp, clean knife at the base. Leave the offset out on the counter for a day or two to callus before planting. Use a well draining soil mix. Keep the center of the bromeliad filled with water and add diluted liquid seaweed or diluted compost tea once every two weeks. This will encourage the young bromeliad to flourish and grow up so it can be ready to bloom. Only mature plants will flower, so a little patience is required when getting bromeliads to bloom from pups.
Forcing a Bromeliad to Bloom Sooner
Reblooming a bromeliad adult isn’t possible but a few tips will see those young offsets in bloom sooner. Add some dissolved Epsom salts to the cup once per month to encourage the production of chlorophyll and flowers. Forcing a bromeliad to bloom also requires an appropriate environment. Empty the depression in the plant and encase it in a large plastic bag accompanied by a slice of apple, kiwi or banana. These fruits give off ethylene gas, which will help force the plant into bloom. Keep the plant in the bag for 10 days and then remove the covering. The plant should bloom in six to 10 weeks with a little luck.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliads are fairly common houseplants with a tropical feel and an unusual, fun growth form. There are over 50 varieties of Hechtia bromeliads, most of which are native to Mexico. What is Hechtia? Hechtia is a terrestrial plant with characteristic rosette form of most bromeliads. One of the more interesting pieces of Hechtia plant info is that is has traits similar to succulents but is not a true succulent. However, Hechtia are drought tolerant and have amazing cold resistance for warm region plants.
What is Hechtia?
There are approximately 56 genera in the Bromeliad family. Hechtia are in the sub-family Pitcairnioideae, and are wonderful little examples of the plant form. They are most commonly grown indoors or in greenhouses, but some regions can support outdoor growth so long as the plants aren’t subjected to temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.).
These small bromeliads thrive from Texas into Mexico and Central America. They occur in areas with cactus and other succulents where soils are harsh and arid. The thick, waxy leaves are sword-like and radiate from a central point in a rosette. Leaf edges may have some serration. The genus comes in a rainbow of colors both in foliage and in flower. Leaves may be tinged with bronze, gold, red, purple and pink. Flowers are born on erect stalks and are usually white but may be pink or yellow. Plants grow slowly but some forms may eventually achieve 5 feet in width and have a flower stalk of 8 feet in height.
Hechtia Plant Info
The first ingredient for growing Hechtia plants is well draining soil. Their native region is sandy, rocky and generally low in fertility. Plants collect dew and rainwater in the cup-like core formed by the leaves. You can easily grow the plants from seed, but with their slow growth rate, you will be waiting years for an adequately sized plant. A better way is to divide off the pups produced at the base of the mother plant. This is valuable Hechtia plant info, as it can cut in half the growing time for recognizable plants. Use good thick gloves to pull away the pup, as they are protected by sharp spines. Hechtia bromeliad care is similar to any bromeliad. Use a succulent mix for growing Hechtia plants. Pups should be potted up in a mixture of peat and perlite until the young bromeliad has a good root system. Bright light and warm daytime temperatures with nightly temperatures 10 to 20 degrees lower will produce the best growth.
Hectia Bromeliad Care
Caring for Hechtia plants in containers requires careful moisture management. Overwatering can cause the plant to rot at the base and under watering limits growth. During spring and summer, water the plant regularly but reduce watering in fall and winter as the plant becomes dormant. Lighting is a crucial part of caring for Hechtia plants. They require a full day of bright sunlight but can survive in a 50 percent shady environment. Lower light levels will affect the rate of growth, flower production and leaf color. As a plant that lives in low fertility soil, Hechtia doesn’t really need fertilizing. Feed the plant in spring and maybe one more time in early summer for quicker growth. Unlike most succulents, Hechtia likes a large pot and doesn’t do well when cramped. If the season is hot and dry, increase humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with small stones and water. Hechtia is an easy plant to care for and one that will surprise you year after year.
What is Hechtia?
There are approximately 56 genera in the Bromeliad family. Hechtia are in the sub-family Pitcairnioideae, and are wonderful little examples of the plant form. They are most commonly grown indoors or in greenhouses, but some regions can support outdoor growth so long as the plants aren’t subjected to temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.).
These small bromeliads thrive from Texas into Mexico and Central America. They occur in areas with cactus and other succulents where soils are harsh and arid. The thick, waxy leaves are sword-like and radiate from a central point in a rosette. Leaf edges may have some serration. The genus comes in a rainbow of colors both in foliage and in flower. Leaves may be tinged with bronze, gold, red, purple and pink. Flowers are born on erect stalks and are usually white but may be pink or yellow. Plants grow slowly but some forms may eventually achieve 5 feet in width and have a flower stalk of 8 feet in height.
Hechtia Plant Info
The first ingredient for growing Hechtia plants is well draining soil. Their native region is sandy, rocky and generally low in fertility. Plants collect dew and rainwater in the cup-like core formed by the leaves. You can easily grow the plants from seed, but with their slow growth rate, you will be waiting years for an adequately sized plant. A better way is to divide off the pups produced at the base of the mother plant. This is valuable Hechtia plant info, as it can cut in half the growing time for recognizable plants. Use good thick gloves to pull away the pup, as they are protected by sharp spines. Hechtia bromeliad care is similar to any bromeliad. Use a succulent mix for growing Hechtia plants. Pups should be potted up in a mixture of peat and perlite until the young bromeliad has a good root system. Bright light and warm daytime temperatures with nightly temperatures 10 to 20 degrees lower will produce the best growth.
Hectia Bromeliad Care
Caring for Hechtia plants in containers requires careful moisture management. Overwatering can cause the plant to rot at the base and under watering limits growth. During spring and summer, water the plant regularly but reduce watering in fall and winter as the plant becomes dormant. Lighting is a crucial part of caring for Hechtia plants. They require a full day of bright sunlight but can survive in a 50 percent shady environment. Lower light levels will affect the rate of growth, flower production and leaf color. As a plant that lives in low fertility soil, Hechtia doesn’t really need fertilizing. Feed the plant in spring and maybe one more time in early summer for quicker growth. Unlike most succulents, Hechtia likes a large pot and doesn’t do well when cramped. If the season is hot and dry, increase humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with small stones and water. Hechtia is an easy plant to care for and one that will surprise you year after year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliads are fun, tough little plants that have become popular as houseplants. The Dyckia group of bromeliads primarily come from Brazil. What are Dyckia plants? These are semi-succulent rosettes that may produce some astounding flower spikes. Some of the varieties are terrestrial while others are found on rocks in their native range. They have remarkable drought tolerance for short periods of time and can even withstand a brief freeze. All in all, growing these plants is easy and rewarding, but a little Dyckia plant info should put you on the path to ensured success.
What are Dyckia Plants?
Dyckia are bromeliads sharing that group’s characteristic rosette shape. They are not technically succulents, as they do not store water in their leaves, but they do have similar thick, waxy foliage. Dyckia are xeriscape plants and can withstand long periods without moisture. The leaves vary from long and strappy to short and scalloped. All foliage is fairly rigid and may be smooth or serrated, a solid color or variegated or spotted. Long stalks with multiple red, yellow, or orange flowers appear in spring. The wide range of varieties ensures that there is a specimen for every taste. In addition to Brazil, these bromeliads are also found in Uraguay, Paraguay, Argetina and Bolivia. A bonus bit of Dyckia plant info; the genus is named for Prince von Salm-Kyck, an amateur collector of succulents.
Dyckia Growing Conditions
Most of the plants we cultivate in the group Dyckia are from Brazil. They survive in warm regions with heavy rainfall for half the year and very dry conditions the rest of the time. This makes Dyckia care slightly challenging, as getting the right balance of moisture to keep the plant happy may be difficult. Dyckia growing conditions in their natural setting should be mimicked as much as possible. Try growing Dyckia plants outside in summer or year around in warmer regions. In their native region, it is not uncommon to find some forms of Dyckia growing on top of rocks near water. Water and the cycle of the monsoon season are important features to Dyckia health. They are used to rather poor soil when they do grow in ground and should be planted in a good succulent mixture. Dyckia need full sun and temperatures of up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 C.) to thrive. Beware of exposing the plants to freezing temperatures for more than a brief time as they are not cold hardy. Temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) seem to be the limit of Dyckia growing conditions. Dyckia are exposed to harsh sun and very dry conditions for most of the year. Then the rainy season appears and the plants are half drowned. Contrary to common sense, they seem to love this treatment and plants are healthiest when the monsoon season is harsh and long.
Dyckia Bromeliad Care
While actively growing, the plants need regular water to produce happy plants. The soil should not be soggy but evenly moist at all times. Use a saucer under potted plants to keep the roots from sitting in water but allow for evaporation and consistent humidity. In winter, when growth is dormant, you may reduce the amount of water by half. Fertilize from spring to fall with a half strength liquid plant food. In the wild, the plants form pups or offsets, which result in new plants. The same is true in container grown plants and these can be divided away from the parent with ease. The plants set seed readily when flowers are present and these germinate quickly. However, they also freely hybridize and the species resulting from the seed may not represent the parent. There are very few cautions or surprises with Dyckia bromeliad care. They are unfussy, hardy little plants that thrive even in slightly neglectful conditions.
What are Dyckia Plants?
Dyckia are bromeliads sharing that group’s characteristic rosette shape. They are not technically succulents, as they do not store water in their leaves, but they do have similar thick, waxy foliage. Dyckia are xeriscape plants and can withstand long periods without moisture. The leaves vary from long and strappy to short and scalloped. All foliage is fairly rigid and may be smooth or serrated, a solid color or variegated or spotted. Long stalks with multiple red, yellow, or orange flowers appear in spring. The wide range of varieties ensures that there is a specimen for every taste. In addition to Brazil, these bromeliads are also found in Uraguay, Paraguay, Argetina and Bolivia. A bonus bit of Dyckia plant info; the genus is named for Prince von Salm-Kyck, an amateur collector of succulents.
Dyckia Growing Conditions
Most of the plants we cultivate in the group Dyckia are from Brazil. They survive in warm regions with heavy rainfall for half the year and very dry conditions the rest of the time. This makes Dyckia care slightly challenging, as getting the right balance of moisture to keep the plant happy may be difficult. Dyckia growing conditions in their natural setting should be mimicked as much as possible. Try growing Dyckia plants outside in summer or year around in warmer regions. In their native region, it is not uncommon to find some forms of Dyckia growing on top of rocks near water. Water and the cycle of the monsoon season are important features to Dyckia health. They are used to rather poor soil when they do grow in ground and should be planted in a good succulent mixture. Dyckia need full sun and temperatures of up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 C.) to thrive. Beware of exposing the plants to freezing temperatures for more than a brief time as they are not cold hardy. Temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) seem to be the limit of Dyckia growing conditions. Dyckia are exposed to harsh sun and very dry conditions for most of the year. Then the rainy season appears and the plants are half drowned. Contrary to common sense, they seem to love this treatment and plants are healthiest when the monsoon season is harsh and long.
Dyckia Bromeliad Care
While actively growing, the plants need regular water to produce happy plants. The soil should not be soggy but evenly moist at all times. Use a saucer under potted plants to keep the roots from sitting in water but allow for evaporation and consistent humidity. In winter, when growth is dormant, you may reduce the amount of water by half. Fertilize from spring to fall with a half strength liquid plant food. In the wild, the plants form pups or offsets, which result in new plants. The same is true in container grown plants and these can be divided away from the parent with ease. The plants set seed readily when flowers are present and these germinate quickly. However, they also freely hybridize and the species resulting from the seed may not represent the parent. There are very few cautions or surprises with Dyckia bromeliad care. They are unfussy, hardy little plants that thrive even in slightly neglectful conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Boston ferns are fabulously popular houseplants. Hardy in USDA zones 9-11, they are kept indoors in pots in most regions. Capable of growing 3 feet (0.9 m) high and 4 feet (1.2 m) wide, Boston ferns can brighten any room with their lush green foliage. That’s why it can be so disheartening to see your vibrant green fern fronds turning black or brown. Keep reading to learn what causes a Boston fern with black fronds, and what to do about it.
Boston Fern Fronds Turning Black Isn’t Always Bad
There is one case in which a Boston fern with black fronds is perfectly natural, and it’s good to be able to spot it. You may see small black spots on the undersides of your fern’s leaves, lined up in regular rows. These spots are spores, and they’re the fern’s way of reproducing. Eventually, the spores will drop to the soil below and grow into reproductive structures. If you see these spots, don’t take any action! It’s a sign that your fern is healthy. Your fern will also experience some natural browning as it ages. As new growth emerges, the oldest leaves at the bottom of the fern will wither and turn brown to black to make way for new growth. This is totally normal. Cut away the discolored leaves to keep the plant looking fresh.
When Boston Fern Fronds Turning Black is Not Good
Boston fern fronds turning brown or black may also signal trouble, however. If your fern’s leaves are suffering from brown or black spots or strips, there may be nematodes in the soil. Add lots of compost to the soil – this will encourage the growth of beneficial fungi that should destroy the nematodes. If the infestation is bad, remove any infected plants. Small, but spreading, soft brown to black spots with an unpleasant odor are most likely a sign of bacterial soft rot. Destroy any infected plants.
Small, but spreading, soft brown to black spots with an unpleasant odor are most likely a sign of bacterial soft rot. Destroy any infected plants. Leaf tip burn manifests as browning and withering tips on fronds and leaves. Destroy any infected plants. Rhizoctonia Blight appears as irregular brownish-black spots that start near the crown of the fern but spread very rapidly. Spray with fungicide.
Boston Fern Fronds Turning Black Isn’t Always Bad
There is one case in which a Boston fern with black fronds is perfectly natural, and it’s good to be able to spot it. You may see small black spots on the undersides of your fern’s leaves, lined up in regular rows. These spots are spores, and they’re the fern’s way of reproducing. Eventually, the spores will drop to the soil below and grow into reproductive structures. If you see these spots, don’t take any action! It’s a sign that your fern is healthy. Your fern will also experience some natural browning as it ages. As new growth emerges, the oldest leaves at the bottom of the fern will wither and turn brown to black to make way for new growth. This is totally normal. Cut away the discolored leaves to keep the plant looking fresh.
When Boston Fern Fronds Turning Black is Not Good
Boston fern fronds turning brown or black may also signal trouble, however. If your fern’s leaves are suffering from brown or black spots or strips, there may be nematodes in the soil. Add lots of compost to the soil – this will encourage the growth of beneficial fungi that should destroy the nematodes. If the infestation is bad, remove any infected plants. Small, but spreading, soft brown to black spots with an unpleasant odor are most likely a sign of bacterial soft rot. Destroy any infected plants.
Small, but spreading, soft brown to black spots with an unpleasant odor are most likely a sign of bacterial soft rot. Destroy any infected plants. Leaf tip burn manifests as browning and withering tips on fronds and leaves. Destroy any infected plants. Rhizoctonia Blight appears as irregular brownish-black spots that start near the crown of the fern but spread very rapidly. Spray with fungicide.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata) are popular houseplants and proper Boston fern care is essential to keeping this plant healthy. Learning how to take care of a Boston fern isn’t difficult, but it is specific. Below, we have listed a few care tips for a Boston fern so that you can provide everything your fern needs to be happy and beautiful.
How to Take Care of a Boston Fern
The first thing you need to do for proper Boston fern care is to make sure that it’s in the right kind of environment. Boston ferns need a cool place with high humidity and indirect light.
When you care for Boston fern plants indoors, it’s a good idea to provide additional humidity for them, especially in the winter. Most homes are rather dry, even more when heaters are running. For extra humidity care for Boston fern, try setting your fern’s pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water. You can also try lightly misting your fern once or twice a week to help it get the humidity it needs. Another step in how to take care of a Boston fern is to make sure that the fern’s soil remains damp. Dry soil is one of the number one reasons that Boston ferns die. Check the soil daily and make sure to give it some water if the soil feels at all dry. Because Boston ferns tend to be planted in potting mixtures that are high in peat moss, it is a good idea to soak the pot of the Boston fern once a month or so to make sure the peat moss is fully hydrated. Be sure to let it drain thoroughly after this.
Boston fern leaves will turn yellow if the humidity is not high enough. If your Boston fern’s fronds are turning yellow, make sure to increase the humidity around the plant One of the lesser known care tips for a Boston fern is that they do not need much fertilizer. Fertilizer should only be given to the plant a few times a year. Boston ferns are susceptible to some pests, especially spider mites and mealybugs. If your plant becomes infested, make sure to treat the plant as quickly as possible to keep it healthy.
Boston fern care is as simple as making sure the plant is in the right environment. If you make sure that your fern is getting the right care for Boston fern plant, your plant will live for many years to come.
How to Take Care of a Boston Fern
The first thing you need to do for proper Boston fern care is to make sure that it’s in the right kind of environment. Boston ferns need a cool place with high humidity and indirect light.
When you care for Boston fern plants indoors, it’s a good idea to provide additional humidity for them, especially in the winter. Most homes are rather dry, even more when heaters are running. For extra humidity care for Boston fern, try setting your fern’s pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water. You can also try lightly misting your fern once or twice a week to help it get the humidity it needs. Another step in how to take care of a Boston fern is to make sure that the fern’s soil remains damp. Dry soil is one of the number one reasons that Boston ferns die. Check the soil daily and make sure to give it some water if the soil feels at all dry. Because Boston ferns tend to be planted in potting mixtures that are high in peat moss, it is a good idea to soak the pot of the Boston fern once a month or so to make sure the peat moss is fully hydrated. Be sure to let it drain thoroughly after this.
Boston fern leaves will turn yellow if the humidity is not high enough. If your Boston fern’s fronds are turning yellow, make sure to increase the humidity around the plant One of the lesser known care tips for a Boston fern is that they do not need much fertilizer. Fertilizer should only be given to the plant a few times a year. Boston ferns are susceptible to some pests, especially spider mites and mealybugs. If your plant becomes infested, make sure to treat the plant as quickly as possible to keep it healthy.
Boston fern care is as simple as making sure the plant is in the right environment. If you make sure that your fern is getting the right care for Boston fern plant, your plant will live for many years to come.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Why the Ming Aralia (Polyscias fruticosa) ever fell out of favor as a houseplant is beyond me. This plant is one of the easiest and loveliest houseplants available. With a little care and know how, Ming Aralia can bring green to your indoors.
How to Care for Ming Aralia Houseplants
Like most houseplants, Ming Aralia is a tropical plant, meaning it cannot survive temps below 50 F. (10 C.). In warmer climates, Ming Aralia makes an excellent outdoor shrub.
One important thing to keep in mind when growing Ming Aralia indoors is that it must be kept constantly moist. Even in the winter, when most houseplants need a reduction in the amount of water they receive, this plant’s soil should still be kept consistently moist (but not wet). Other than that one small detail, your Ming Aralia should require little upkeep.
Ming Aralia can grow to be 6 to 7 feet tall if properly cared for in an indoor environment, and is prone to grow up rather than out. For this reason, you may want to occasionally prune this plant. If possible, prune your Ming Aralia in the cooler months, as this is when the plant’s growth is reduced and the pruning will cause less damage to the plant. Controlled pruning of this plant can actually produce some pretty stunning results. Due to the naturally crooked growth of this plant, the lower stems can be trained into some interesting showpieces.
These plants also make nice bonsai specimens, but even when not used in this fashion they can add a certain Asian flair to a room. Ming Aralia needs medium, indirect light in an indoor environment. Make sure that the plant gets enough sunlight from a north- or east-facing window or a plant lamp.
If you wish to propagate this plant, all you need to do is take a cutting and place it in some damp soil. Keep the soil damp and the cutting should root in just a few weeks. For added chance of rooting success, place the pot and cutting in a plastic bag. Ming Aralia is certainly a plant that will make a splash in your house. The fine cut leaves and the interesting trunks make this a great addition to any indoor garden.
How to Care for Ming Aralia Houseplants
Like most houseplants, Ming Aralia is a tropical plant, meaning it cannot survive temps below 50 F. (10 C.). In warmer climates, Ming Aralia makes an excellent outdoor shrub.
One important thing to keep in mind when growing Ming Aralia indoors is that it must be kept constantly moist. Even in the winter, when most houseplants need a reduction in the amount of water they receive, this plant’s soil should still be kept consistently moist (but not wet). Other than that one small detail, your Ming Aralia should require little upkeep.
Ming Aralia can grow to be 6 to 7 feet tall if properly cared for in an indoor environment, and is prone to grow up rather than out. For this reason, you may want to occasionally prune this plant. If possible, prune your Ming Aralia in the cooler months, as this is when the plant’s growth is reduced and the pruning will cause less damage to the plant. Controlled pruning of this plant can actually produce some pretty stunning results. Due to the naturally crooked growth of this plant, the lower stems can be trained into some interesting showpieces.
These plants also make nice bonsai specimens, but even when not used in this fashion they can add a certain Asian flair to a room. Ming Aralia needs medium, indirect light in an indoor environment. Make sure that the plant gets enough sunlight from a north- or east-facing window or a plant lamp.
If you wish to propagate this plant, all you need to do is take a cutting and place it in some damp soil. Keep the soil damp and the cutting should root in just a few weeks. For added chance of rooting success, place the pot and cutting in a plastic bag. Ming Aralia is certainly a plant that will make a splash in your house. The fine cut leaves and the interesting trunks make this a great addition to any indoor garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Growing aluminum plants (Pilea cadierei) is easy and will add additional appeal to the home with pointed leaves splashed in a metallic silver. Let’s learn more about taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors.
About Pilea Houseplants
Pilea houseplants are a member of the family Urticaceae and are found in tropical regions of the world, predominantly in Southeast Asia. Most varieties of Pilea have striking variegated foliage of raised silver on deep green leaves.
Because growing aluminum plants thrive in a tropical climate, they are generally cultivated as houseplants in North America, although there are a couple of USDA zones where the Pilea houseplants may be utilized in an outdoor landscape. These plants are evergreens, which have a small insignificant flower, and grow from 6 to 12 inches in height. They have a spreading habitat, which can be fostered depending on its supporting structure. Generally, Pilea plants are grown in hanging baskets; however, when grown outdoors, they look lovely cascading over a wall or as a ground cover in suitable zones.
Varieties of Pilea
Artillery plant (Pilea serpyllacea) is a popular Pilea variety grown as a houseplant. Some additional varieties of Pilea useful for their low growing habitat and lush green spreading foliage are as follows: P. serpyllacea P. nummulariifolia P. depressa All varieties of Pilea are cold sensitive and are susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, leaf spots and stem rot.
Taking Care of a Pilea Aluminum Plant
Keep in mind your climatic zone when growing aluminum plants. As mentioned, all varieties are tropical plants and as such are really only tolerant of outdoor conditions in USDA zones 9 through 11. Areas of the deep southern Gulf States and Texas are conducive to growing aluminum plants as outdoor specimens provided they are sheltered to a certain extent. When taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant, it should be situated where the room temperature is 70-75 F. (20-24 C.) during the day and 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) at night. During the summer months, Pilea houseplants should be grown in partial shade and then during winter moved to a well lit area, such as southern exposure window space. Aluminum plant care necessitates keeping the plant away from either hot or cold drafts that arise from heaters or air conditioning units.
Aluminum Plant Care
Aluminum plant care dictates fertilizing every five to six weeks during active growth phases. Apply liquid or soluble fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions when taking care of a pilea aluminum plant. Apply fertilizer only when Pilea houseplants have damp soil; application when soil is dry may damage roots. Taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors requires well-drained potting soil and evenly moistened medium. For the most optimal success growing aluminum plants, check the plant daily and water as necessary when the soil surface appears dry. Take care to remove any excess standing water from the saucer and maintain a medium amount of light exposure. If you want to keep the plant bushy, pinch out the growing tips of Pilea houseplants. Also, take cuttings to replace plants when they become too leggy.
About Pilea Houseplants
Pilea houseplants are a member of the family Urticaceae and are found in tropical regions of the world, predominantly in Southeast Asia. Most varieties of Pilea have striking variegated foliage of raised silver on deep green leaves.
Because growing aluminum plants thrive in a tropical climate, they are generally cultivated as houseplants in North America, although there are a couple of USDA zones where the Pilea houseplants may be utilized in an outdoor landscape. These plants are evergreens, which have a small insignificant flower, and grow from 6 to 12 inches in height. They have a spreading habitat, which can be fostered depending on its supporting structure. Generally, Pilea plants are grown in hanging baskets; however, when grown outdoors, they look lovely cascading over a wall or as a ground cover in suitable zones.
Varieties of Pilea
Artillery plant (Pilea serpyllacea) is a popular Pilea variety grown as a houseplant. Some additional varieties of Pilea useful for their low growing habitat and lush green spreading foliage are as follows: P. serpyllacea P. nummulariifolia P. depressa All varieties of Pilea are cold sensitive and are susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, leaf spots and stem rot.
Taking Care of a Pilea Aluminum Plant
Keep in mind your climatic zone when growing aluminum plants. As mentioned, all varieties are tropical plants and as such are really only tolerant of outdoor conditions in USDA zones 9 through 11. Areas of the deep southern Gulf States and Texas are conducive to growing aluminum plants as outdoor specimens provided they are sheltered to a certain extent. When taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant, it should be situated where the room temperature is 70-75 F. (20-24 C.) during the day and 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) at night. During the summer months, Pilea houseplants should be grown in partial shade and then during winter moved to a well lit area, such as southern exposure window space. Aluminum plant care necessitates keeping the plant away from either hot or cold drafts that arise from heaters or air conditioning units.
Aluminum Plant Care
Aluminum plant care dictates fertilizing every five to six weeks during active growth phases. Apply liquid or soluble fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions when taking care of a pilea aluminum plant. Apply fertilizer only when Pilea houseplants have damp soil; application when soil is dry may damage roots. Taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors requires well-drained potting soil and evenly moistened medium. For the most optimal success growing aluminum plants, check the plant daily and water as necessary when the soil surface appears dry. Take care to remove any excess standing water from the saucer and maintain a medium amount of light exposure. If you want to keep the plant bushy, pinch out the growing tips of Pilea houseplants. Also, take cuttings to replace plants when they become too leggy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
If you’re an indoor plant enthusiast and you’re looking for a unique addition to your collection of houseplants, then Alocasia may be the ideal plant for you. Also known as the African mask or Kris plant, Alocasia doesn’t come from Africa at all. It gets its name from its resemblance to the hand carved ceremonial masks found there but actually hails from the Philippine Islands. There are over 50 species of the Kris plant and Alocasia hybrids abound, making it difficult to identify the exact genetic history of the plants typically sold in catalogs and stores. Grown for its striking foliage, the African mask plant is not an easy care houseplant.
About Alocasia Indoor Planting
Alocasia indoor planting requires conditions that closely replicate its natural outdoor environment, which is warm and very humid. It is particular about its soil and light conditions and needs to be planted in a specific way. If you’re willing to go the extra mile in Alocasia plant care, you’ll be richly rewarded with an eye catching addition to your indoor garden. Clean lines and crisp, defined color makes the Kris plant (Alocasia sanderiana) an excellent standalone specimen, especially complimentary to modern design. When mixed with a plant grouping, an African mask plant can turn a group of commonplace houseplants into an exotic, tropical display. Its decorative versatility is second only to the plant itself. The leaves grow long and pointed from rhizomatous clumps and reach an average of 18 inches in length. They are a deep, dark green and some are so dark they almost appear black. Their shiny length is accented by silvery white veining and deeply scalloped edges outlined by the same striking white. The flowers are similar to jack-in-the-pulpit with a green and white spathe that produces orange-red berries. They are not significant and rarely occur in an Alocasia indoor planting.
Growing Kris Plant Alocasia
Proper Alocasia plant care begins with the soil. It needs to be porous and a recommended mix would be one part soil, one part perlite or coarse potting sand and one part peat. The potting mixture must be well aerated, well drained, and yet remain moist. Rhizomes form the root of the Alocasia plant, so care must be taken when planting these rhizomes to ensure the top of the rhizome remains above the soil line or the plant will not grow. Propagation is best done in the spring as new growth appears by separating and repotting the rhizomes.
Your African mask plant prefers a tight fit in its pot so don’t repot too often. Humidity is second on the list of necessities for your new houseplant. Alocasia thrives in a moist environment and need plenty of water during active growth. This is a plant that definitely needs a pebble tray beneath it. That being said, the Kris plant also has a dormant period in the fall where the leaves fade and die. Not realizing that this is a natural occurrence, many well-meaning gardeners over water at this point in an attempt to save their houseplant. Alocasia’s need for water diminishes drastically during dormancy and should be reduced to moistening the soil once in a while. Your Alocasia indoor planting should be well lit with bright, but diffuse light. Direct sunlight will burn the leaves. Avoid southern exposures. Fortunately, average household temperatures are sufficient for African mask plants, although they prefer it a bit warmer, about 85 F. (29 C.) in summer. Use a fertilizer formulated for foliage plants, such as a slow release fertilizer applied every couple months during the growing season. There is one more important note that should be mentioned when referencing the houseplant Alocasia in all its forms. They are toxic and should be kept out of the reach of small children and pets.
About Alocasia Indoor Planting
Alocasia indoor planting requires conditions that closely replicate its natural outdoor environment, which is warm and very humid. It is particular about its soil and light conditions and needs to be planted in a specific way. If you’re willing to go the extra mile in Alocasia plant care, you’ll be richly rewarded with an eye catching addition to your indoor garden. Clean lines and crisp, defined color makes the Kris plant (Alocasia sanderiana) an excellent standalone specimen, especially complimentary to modern design. When mixed with a plant grouping, an African mask plant can turn a group of commonplace houseplants into an exotic, tropical display. Its decorative versatility is second only to the plant itself. The leaves grow long and pointed from rhizomatous clumps and reach an average of 18 inches in length. They are a deep, dark green and some are so dark they almost appear black. Their shiny length is accented by silvery white veining and deeply scalloped edges outlined by the same striking white. The flowers are similar to jack-in-the-pulpit with a green and white spathe that produces orange-red berries. They are not significant and rarely occur in an Alocasia indoor planting.
Growing Kris Plant Alocasia
Proper Alocasia plant care begins with the soil. It needs to be porous and a recommended mix would be one part soil, one part perlite or coarse potting sand and one part peat. The potting mixture must be well aerated, well drained, and yet remain moist. Rhizomes form the root of the Alocasia plant, so care must be taken when planting these rhizomes to ensure the top of the rhizome remains above the soil line or the plant will not grow. Propagation is best done in the spring as new growth appears by separating and repotting the rhizomes.
Your African mask plant prefers a tight fit in its pot so don’t repot too often. Humidity is second on the list of necessities for your new houseplant. Alocasia thrives in a moist environment and need plenty of water during active growth. This is a plant that definitely needs a pebble tray beneath it. That being said, the Kris plant also has a dormant period in the fall where the leaves fade and die. Not realizing that this is a natural occurrence, many well-meaning gardeners over water at this point in an attempt to save their houseplant. Alocasia’s need for water diminishes drastically during dormancy and should be reduced to moistening the soil once in a while. Your Alocasia indoor planting should be well lit with bright, but diffuse light. Direct sunlight will burn the leaves. Avoid southern exposures. Fortunately, average household temperatures are sufficient for African mask plants, although they prefer it a bit warmer, about 85 F. (29 C.) in summer. Use a fertilizer formulated for foliage plants, such as a slow release fertilizer applied every couple months during the growing season. There is one more important note that should be mentioned when referencing the houseplant Alocasia in all its forms. They are toxic and should be kept out of the reach of small children and pets.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Many cacti can be successful houseplants. All are succulent plants, and they have two basic kinds of growth. Forest cacti are epiphytes that grow in trees and have flattened, green, leafy-looking stems with few or no spines. Desert cacti, those of dry, hot climates, have thick stems and usually many spines. They can be globular, cylindrical, columnar or have paddle-shaped stems. An indoor forest cactus requires care different from the care an indoor desert cactus needs.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus plants (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are epiphytes that grow naturally in trees in Brazil. They absorb moisture and nutrients from debris that gets caught in the tree branches. Commonly grown as houseplants, they can also be grown outdoors in pots in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, as long as they are brought indoors if the weather gets too cold. They can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but their stems will be severely damaged.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Yucca cane plants grow as indoor houseplants and as outdoor ornamental plants in the garden. Yucca thrives at temperatures between 60 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit with partial shade. If you live in an area with freezing winters, plant your yucca canes in containers so they can be brought indoors during the cold months.
Repot the Plant
Step 1
Repot the yucca cane plant every two years. Choose a growing container at least 2 inches larger than the previous pot.
Step 2
Place 1 inch of pea gravel in the bottom of the growing container. This will help the water drain.
Step 3
Fill the container with a mixture comprised of three parts peat moss and one part sand.
Step 4
Remove the plant from the existing container and gently shake the soil medium from the roots.
Step 5
Dig a hole in the center of the container large enough for the root ball of the plant.
Step 6
Center the root ball in the hole and cover with the growing medium, packing the soil mixture around the stem and roots of the plant.
Step 7
Water the plant until water drains from the bottom of the container.
Other Care
Step 8
Place the yucca plant in a sunny window or an area that receives full light for part of the day.
Step 9
Water the plant only when the soil is dry. Insert a pencil or a chopstick 2 inches into the soil. Remove the pencil -- if it is completely dry, water the plant.
Step 10
Fertilize the plant using a 19-6-12 slow release fertilizer according to label directions every three months.
Step 11
Place the plants outdoors during the late spring and early summer.
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