文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Scheffleras are ornamental foliage plants. In most zones, they are only suitable as houseplants because they are extremely tender. The wide leaf clusters resemble the spokes of an umbrella and have given them the nickname, umbrella tree. Schefflera plants are remarkably tolerant houseplants and do well in a variety of situations; however, they are also prey to insect pests. Sticky Schefflera leaves are likely a symptom of some hitchhiking bugs that are sucking the life out of your prized plant. 
Why is my Schefflera Sticky?
Scheffleras have gorgeous,large glossy leaves arranged in a circle around a central stem. Each of the leaflets that make up the entire umbrella design can get up to 12 inches long in mature plants. Indoor plants benefit from having the leaves dusted and it is during this activity that you may notice something new on the plant — sticky stuff on Schefflera foliage. The culprits may be several sucking insect pests which deposit excrement called honeydew on their host plant’s foliage, creating sticky Schefflera leaves.
Look under the leaves and on the stems of a Schefflera with sticky substance on its leaves. The problem stems from very small insects that feed on the sap of the plant and slowly reduce its vigor. The honeydew leaves behind a shiny, sticky mess. You can wash off the honeydew and get rid of some of the bugs, but just a few left behind will quickly colonize and before you know it you will have a sticky Schefflera plant again. The most common culprits that cause sticky Schefflera leaves are aphids, mites or mealybugs. If you have an ant problem in the house, you may also notice ants in and around the plant. This is because ants “farm” aphids to keep them around for the honeydew, which is an ant food favorite.
What to Do About Sticky Schefflera Leaves
Any Schefflera with sticky substance on the leaves can be initially treated by taking it outdoors and blasting the leaves with water. Aphids rinse off the leaves and this treatment usually works well if you follow up at the first sign of the pests. Systemic treatments formulated for houseplants work to prevent the pests and subsequent sticky stuff on Schefflera. It translocates from roots to stem to leaves, so that the insects intake it through their feeding activity. A kinder, gentler solution when children and pets are present is Neem oil. This natural oil comes from a tree native to India. It has both toxic and repellent properties to many insects but is safe for use in the home.
Recovery for a Sticky Schefflera Plant
After a successful treatment and all signs of insect pests are gone, it is time to assess the damage. If your plant was dropping leaves, discoloring or failing to produce new growth, it is likely the insects damaged its health to some degree. That means you need to baby a plant that had been affected. Once the Schefflera with sticky substance has been cleaned up and the pests have been eradicated, ill health may continue. Give the plant a gentle fertilizer every two weeks such as diluted compost tea or diluted fish or seaweed fertilizer. Water the plant regularly when the top 3 inches of soil are dry. Repot plants that have poor soil, using a good potting soil with organic amendment. Over the course of a few weeks you should see improvement in your plant and it will be its old glossy self again.
Why is my Schefflera Sticky?
Scheffleras have gorgeous,large glossy leaves arranged in a circle around a central stem. Each of the leaflets that make up the entire umbrella design can get up to 12 inches long in mature plants. Indoor plants benefit from having the leaves dusted and it is during this activity that you may notice something new on the plant — sticky stuff on Schefflera foliage. The culprits may be several sucking insect pests which deposit excrement called honeydew on their host plant’s foliage, creating sticky Schefflera leaves.
Look under the leaves and on the stems of a Schefflera with sticky substance on its leaves. The problem stems from very small insects that feed on the sap of the plant and slowly reduce its vigor. The honeydew leaves behind a shiny, sticky mess. You can wash off the honeydew and get rid of some of the bugs, but just a few left behind will quickly colonize and before you know it you will have a sticky Schefflera plant again. The most common culprits that cause sticky Schefflera leaves are aphids, mites or mealybugs. If you have an ant problem in the house, you may also notice ants in and around the plant. This is because ants “farm” aphids to keep them around for the honeydew, which is an ant food favorite.
What to Do About Sticky Schefflera Leaves
Any Schefflera with sticky substance on the leaves can be initially treated by taking it outdoors and blasting the leaves with water. Aphids rinse off the leaves and this treatment usually works well if you follow up at the first sign of the pests. Systemic treatments formulated for houseplants work to prevent the pests and subsequent sticky stuff on Schefflera. It translocates from roots to stem to leaves, so that the insects intake it through their feeding activity. A kinder, gentler solution when children and pets are present is Neem oil. This natural oil comes from a tree native to India. It has both toxic and repellent properties to many insects but is safe for use in the home.
Recovery for a Sticky Schefflera Plant
After a successful treatment and all signs of insect pests are gone, it is time to assess the damage. If your plant was dropping leaves, discoloring or failing to produce new growth, it is likely the insects damaged its health to some degree. That means you need to baby a plant that had been affected. Once the Schefflera with sticky substance has been cleaned up and the pests have been eradicated, ill health may continue. Give the plant a gentle fertilizer every two weeks such as diluted compost tea or diluted fish or seaweed fertilizer. Water the plant regularly when the top 3 inches of soil are dry. Repot plants that have poor soil, using a good potting soil with organic amendment. Over the course of a few weeks you should see improvement in your plant and it will be its old glossy self again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber trees are hardy and versatile houseplants, which leads many people to wonder, “How do you get a start of a rubber tree plant?” Propagating rubber tree plants is easy and means that you will have starts for all of your friends and family. Keep reading to learn how to propagate a rubber tree so that you can give your friends a free rubber tree plant.
Propagate a Rubber Tree Plant with Cuttings
Rubber tree plants can grow very tall and this means an indoor rubber tree occasionally needs to be pruned. After pruning, don’t throw out those cuttings; instead, use them to propagate a rubber tree plant.
Propagate a rubber tree plant from cuttings starts with getting a good cutting. The cutting should be about 6 inches long and have at least two sets of leaves. The next step in how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to remove the bottom set of leaves from the cutting. If you would like, you can dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Then, place the rubber tree cutting in moist but well-draining potting soil. Cover the cutting with either a jar or clear plastic, but make sure that the intact leaves do not touch the glass or plastic. If you need to, you can cut the remaining leaves in half, removing the half that is not attached to the stem. Place the rubber tree plant cutting in a warm place that is lit by only indirect light. In two to three weeks, the rubber tree cutting should have developed roots and the covering can be removed.
Using Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Another way to propagate a rubber tree plant is by using air layering. This method basically leaves the “cutting” on the rubber tree while it is rooting. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem to make into a new plant. The stem should be at least 12 inches long, but can be longer if you would like. Next, remove any leaves immediately above and below the area where you will be rooting the stem, then take a sharp knife and carefully remove a 1-inch wide strip of bark that goes all the way around the stem. You should have a “naked” ring that goes around the stem of the rubber tree plant. Remove all of the soft tissue in that ring, but leave the hard center wood intact.
After this, dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover the ring with damp sphagnum moss. Secure the sphagnum moss to the stem with a plastic covering. Make sure the moss is completely covered. The plastic will help keep the sphagnum moss damp as well. In two to three weeks, the stem of the rubber tree should have developed roots at the ring. After it has developed roots, cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
Propagate a Rubber Tree Plant with Cuttings
Rubber tree plants can grow very tall and this means an indoor rubber tree occasionally needs to be pruned. After pruning, don’t throw out those cuttings; instead, use them to propagate a rubber tree plant.
Propagate a rubber tree plant from cuttings starts with getting a good cutting. The cutting should be about 6 inches long and have at least two sets of leaves. The next step in how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to remove the bottom set of leaves from the cutting. If you would like, you can dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Then, place the rubber tree cutting in moist but well-draining potting soil. Cover the cutting with either a jar or clear plastic, but make sure that the intact leaves do not touch the glass or plastic. If you need to, you can cut the remaining leaves in half, removing the half that is not attached to the stem. Place the rubber tree plant cutting in a warm place that is lit by only indirect light. In two to three weeks, the rubber tree cutting should have developed roots and the covering can be removed.
Using Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Another way to propagate a rubber tree plant is by using air layering. This method basically leaves the “cutting” on the rubber tree while it is rooting. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem to make into a new plant. The stem should be at least 12 inches long, but can be longer if you would like. Next, remove any leaves immediately above and below the area where you will be rooting the stem, then take a sharp knife and carefully remove a 1-inch wide strip of bark that goes all the way around the stem. You should have a “naked” ring that goes around the stem of the rubber tree plant. Remove all of the soft tissue in that ring, but leave the hard center wood intact.
After this, dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover the ring with damp sphagnum moss. Secure the sphagnum moss to the stem with a plastic covering. Make sure the moss is completely covered. The plastic will help keep the sphagnum moss damp as well. In two to three weeks, the stem of the rubber tree should have developed roots at the ring. After it has developed roots, cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Ficus plants are commonly sold as houseplants. One of the more striking due to its glossy leaves, is the rubber tree plant. These are fairly easy to care for but dislike being moved and are fussy about water. Rubber plant watering must provide matching moisture to what the plants would find in their native Southeast Asian habitat. However, in the home interior this may be difficult to achieve unless you are vigilant or use a plant moisture meter. Learn to know signs for when to water a rubber tree plant, so your Ficus is happy and healthy.
How Much Water Do Rubber Tree Plants Need?
Ficus are a large genus of tropical to semi-tropical plants, many of which are perfect for the home interior. The rubber plant produces a perfect home sized tree and is adaptable to indoor growing.
Water requirements for rubber plants are consistently moist but never soggy. Soggy plants can get root rot, soil gnats and other problems. Dry soil causes leaves to drop and reduces the overall health and growth of the plant. Getting rubber plant watering right will ensure beautiful leaves and maximum growth. Rubber plants are rainforest specimens. As such, they are adapted to plentiful water. But as with most plants, excess or standing water can be detrimental to their health. So how much water do rubber tree plants need?
The first step is to ensure the container the plant is in has adequate drainage holes. Also, make sure the potting medium has some peat, vermiculite or perlite in it. Peat holds water and air, increasing porosity. Vermiculite has the same purpose while a calcined clay perlite improves moisture and nutrient holding abilities of the soil medium. Use a dish under the plant that is lined with pebbles to catch excess moisture but keep the roots from sitting in water. This will evaporate gradually increasing humidity around the rubber tree. Never allow a container to sit in a saucer or dish without rocks. Roots sitting in soil will deteriorate and the plant will suffer.
When to Water a Rubber Tree Plant
The obvious answer is when the plant is dry but there is more to it than that. Even indoor plants respond to light and temperature changes. In winter, plants get less daylight and feel cold. They go into a sort of hibernation until more sunlight is available. Therefore, during winter you can cut watering in half. However, plants that are positioned near a fireplace or furnace will have their potting soil dry out much more quickly. In any case, if the top few inches of soil are dry, it is time to water. You may opt for a water meter or simply insert your finger into soil. Most water meters should read a 4 at optimum moisture levels. Rubber plants need to be checked weekly during the growing season. A good sign that you are overwatering is yellow leaves. At the first sign of yellowing, decrease watering slightly and healthy green, glossy leaves appear. Prior to watering, allow tap water to sit for a few hours to allow chlorine to evaporate and the water to come to room temperature. This causes less shock to the plant than icy water. When watering a rubber plant, drench the soil completely until excess moisture runs out the drainage holes. This will not only water the roots but leach out any built-up salts from fertilizing. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between each watering.
How Much Water Do Rubber Tree Plants Need?
Ficus are a large genus of tropical to semi-tropical plants, many of which are perfect for the home interior. The rubber plant produces a perfect home sized tree and is adaptable to indoor growing.
Water requirements for rubber plants are consistently moist but never soggy. Soggy plants can get root rot, soil gnats and other problems. Dry soil causes leaves to drop and reduces the overall health and growth of the plant. Getting rubber plant watering right will ensure beautiful leaves and maximum growth. Rubber plants are rainforest specimens. As such, they are adapted to plentiful water. But as with most plants, excess or standing water can be detrimental to their health. So how much water do rubber tree plants need?
The first step is to ensure the container the plant is in has adequate drainage holes. Also, make sure the potting medium has some peat, vermiculite or perlite in it. Peat holds water and air, increasing porosity. Vermiculite has the same purpose while a calcined clay perlite improves moisture and nutrient holding abilities of the soil medium. Use a dish under the plant that is lined with pebbles to catch excess moisture but keep the roots from sitting in water. This will evaporate gradually increasing humidity around the rubber tree. Never allow a container to sit in a saucer or dish without rocks. Roots sitting in soil will deteriorate and the plant will suffer.
When to Water a Rubber Tree Plant
The obvious answer is when the plant is dry but there is more to it than that. Even indoor plants respond to light and temperature changes. In winter, plants get less daylight and feel cold. They go into a sort of hibernation until more sunlight is available. Therefore, during winter you can cut watering in half. However, plants that are positioned near a fireplace or furnace will have their potting soil dry out much more quickly. In any case, if the top few inches of soil are dry, it is time to water. You may opt for a water meter or simply insert your finger into soil. Most water meters should read a 4 at optimum moisture levels. Rubber plants need to be checked weekly during the growing season. A good sign that you are overwatering is yellow leaves. At the first sign of yellowing, decrease watering slightly and healthy green, glossy leaves appear. Prior to watering, allow tap water to sit for a few hours to allow chlorine to evaporate and the water to come to room temperature. This causes less shock to the plant than icy water. When watering a rubber plant, drench the soil completely until excess moisture runs out the drainage holes. This will not only water the roots but leach out any built-up salts from fertilizing. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between each watering.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The oval-shaped, beautifully patterned foliage of the prayer plant has earned it a favored spot among houseplants. Indoor gardeners love these plants, sometimes too much. When prayer plants turn yellow, it’s often because of environmental problems, but a few diseases and pests could also be responsible. If your prayer plant is turning yellow, read on to find out the possible causes and their treatments.
What Causes Yellow Leaves on Prayer Plants
Environmental Stress
By far the most common Maranta prayer plant problems are caused by incorrect care. Bright lighting or excessive phosphate or fluoride can cause leaf tips and margins to burn, leaving a band of yellow tissue between the healthy and dead tissues. Chlorosis causes yellow prayer plant foliage, especially on younger leaves. Move your plant to a location with indirect light and begin watering with purified water. A dose of liquid iron fertilizer mixed per package directions can help correct chlorosis, provided the pH of your medium is around 6.0. A soil test may be in order, or it could be time to repot.
Fungal Disease
Helminthosporium leaf spot is a fungal disease that causes small, water-soaked spots to appear on prayer plant leaves. These spots soon yellow and spread, eventually becoming tan areas with yellow halos. This fungus takes hold when plants are chronically over-irrigated and leaves frequently are covered in standing water. Correct the irrigation problem to eliminate future risk of disease and water only at the base of the plant in the morning, so that water evaporates from splashed surfaces quickly. An application of neem oil or the fungicide chlorothalonil can kill active disease, but prevention of future outbreaks is vital.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
The cucumber mosaic virus may be responsible for yellowing leaves on Maranta, especially if the yellowing alternates with otherwise healthy green tissue. New leaves may emerge small and distorted, older leaves develop yellow line patterns across their surfaces. Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do for plant viruses It’s best to destroy your plant to prevent other houseplants from contracting the virus.
What Causes Yellow Leaves on Prayer Plants
Environmental Stress
By far the most common Maranta prayer plant problems are caused by incorrect care. Bright lighting or excessive phosphate or fluoride can cause leaf tips and margins to burn, leaving a band of yellow tissue between the healthy and dead tissues. Chlorosis causes yellow prayer plant foliage, especially on younger leaves. Move your plant to a location with indirect light and begin watering with purified water. A dose of liquid iron fertilizer mixed per package directions can help correct chlorosis, provided the pH of your medium is around 6.0. A soil test may be in order, or it could be time to repot.
Fungal Disease
Helminthosporium leaf spot is a fungal disease that causes small, water-soaked spots to appear on prayer plant leaves. These spots soon yellow and spread, eventually becoming tan areas with yellow halos. This fungus takes hold when plants are chronically over-irrigated and leaves frequently are covered in standing water. Correct the irrigation problem to eliminate future risk of disease and water only at the base of the plant in the morning, so that water evaporates from splashed surfaces quickly. An application of neem oil or the fungicide chlorothalonil can kill active disease, but prevention of future outbreaks is vital.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
The cucumber mosaic virus may be responsible for yellowing leaves on Maranta, especially if the yellowing alternates with otherwise healthy green tissue. New leaves may emerge small and distorted, older leaves develop yellow line patterns across their surfaces. Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do for plant viruses It’s best to destroy your plant to prevent other houseplants from contracting the virus.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Pitcher plant care is relatively easy and they make interesting houseplants or outdoor specimens in milder climes. Do pitcher plants need fertilizer? In ideal conditions, the plant makes all the food it needs by supplementing with insects that provide nitrogen. Indoor plants may need a little help in the nitrogen department. Find out how to fertilize a pitcher plant and enjoy the distinctive appearance and habits of this amazing species.
Do Pitcher Plants Need Fertilizer?
Sarracenia is a large group of carnivorous plants found across the globe. More commonly known as pitcher plant, the genus is formed of plants that have found a unique way to survive in low nutrient soil. Sarracenia are North American natives. Nepenthes are the tropical varieties of pitcher plant, which need warm weather and plenty of humidity. The plants harvest insects by trapping them in their pitcher-shaped leaves. The insects provide nitrogen for the plant’s growth and health. In the wild they thrive without anyone feeding, but potbound plants will benefit from additional nutritional supplementation. Seedlings also need some food in addition to their soil medium since they do not have properly formed pitchers in which to catch gnats and other tiny insects.
Basic Pitcher Plant Care
Use any porous potting mix, such as orchid mix, for growing pitcher plants. It should be slightly acidic and well draining. Plant pitcher plants in an unglazed ceramic pot with good drainage holes. Both groups of the plant require plenty of water and should never be allowed to dry out. They love to be in a dish of water or even at the edge of a water garden. An important part of pitcher plant care is the type of water. These plants are sensitive to tap water and should be in contact with distilled or rain water only. Full sun locations are preferable with some shelter from the harshest midday rays. Outdoor plants have plenty of opportunity to catch flies while indoor plants may need you to hunt for them. Without supplemental insects, fertilizing pitcher plants is necessary to keep them healthy.
How to Fertilize a Pitcher Plant
Pitcher plants should not be fertilized over the soil. The plants are used to low nutrient soil in their native habitats and excess nutrients can actually kill them. Instead, if the plant is doing poorly, try to feed it an insect via the pitcher structures or add diluted liquid fertilizer directly into the tubular leaves. A high nitrogen pitcher plant fertilizer is perfect to fulfill the plant’s needs. A mild fish fertilizer diluted by one-quarter every two to four weeks can be added to the pitcher. Young plants and seedlings benefit more from fertilizer and may be soil fed. Dilute by half and follow any soil feeding with a drench of rainwater or distilled water. Make sure the pitcher is at least half full before fertilizing pitcher plants. Outdoor plants should be fine without extra feeding, provided they are in a moist, acidic soil and bright light. Some commercial formulas that work well as pitcher plant fertilizer are Osmocote, Miracid and Miracle Grow. Don’t forget to dilute the fertilizer heavily with mineral free water.
Do Pitcher Plants Need Fertilizer?
Sarracenia is a large group of carnivorous plants found across the globe. More commonly known as pitcher plant, the genus is formed of plants that have found a unique way to survive in low nutrient soil. Sarracenia are North American natives. Nepenthes are the tropical varieties of pitcher plant, which need warm weather and plenty of humidity. The plants harvest insects by trapping them in their pitcher-shaped leaves. The insects provide nitrogen for the plant’s growth and health. In the wild they thrive without anyone feeding, but potbound plants will benefit from additional nutritional supplementation. Seedlings also need some food in addition to their soil medium since they do not have properly formed pitchers in which to catch gnats and other tiny insects.
Basic Pitcher Plant Care
Use any porous potting mix, such as orchid mix, for growing pitcher plants. It should be slightly acidic and well draining. Plant pitcher plants in an unglazed ceramic pot with good drainage holes. Both groups of the plant require plenty of water and should never be allowed to dry out. They love to be in a dish of water or even at the edge of a water garden. An important part of pitcher plant care is the type of water. These plants are sensitive to tap water and should be in contact with distilled or rain water only. Full sun locations are preferable with some shelter from the harshest midday rays. Outdoor plants have plenty of opportunity to catch flies while indoor plants may need you to hunt for them. Without supplemental insects, fertilizing pitcher plants is necessary to keep them healthy.
How to Fertilize a Pitcher Plant
Pitcher plants should not be fertilized over the soil. The plants are used to low nutrient soil in their native habitats and excess nutrients can actually kill them. Instead, if the plant is doing poorly, try to feed it an insect via the pitcher structures or add diluted liquid fertilizer directly into the tubular leaves. A high nitrogen pitcher plant fertilizer is perfect to fulfill the plant’s needs. A mild fish fertilizer diluted by one-quarter every two to four weeks can be added to the pitcher. Young plants and seedlings benefit more from fertilizer and may be soil fed. Dilute by half and follow any soil feeding with a drench of rainwater or distilled water. Make sure the pitcher is at least half full before fertilizing pitcher plants. Outdoor plants should be fine without extra feeding, provided they are in a moist, acidic soil and bright light. Some commercial formulas that work well as pitcher plant fertilizer are Osmocote, Miracid and Miracle Grow. Don’t forget to dilute the fertilizer heavily with mineral free water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Ponytail palms are truly interesting houseplants with their spiky poof of slender leaves capping a decidedly elephant skin trunk. They are not true palms, however, so can you trim ponytail palms? Read on for the answer on how to prune ponytail palm and the chances it will come back from severe top damage. Ponytail palms are inexpensive, fun little houseplants with slow growth and minimal care needs. Place the little plant in full sun and water sparingly and normally the plant will continue its tortoise-paced growth and give you no trouble. About the only problem with these plants is overwatering.
Can You Trim Ponytail Palm?
Let’s be clear on the difference between trimming and pruning. Trimming may be done with shears and generally refers to removal of the tips of leaves. Pruning is done with the intention of removing base and woody material for plant rejuvenation, or restoration. The ponytail palm leaves are sensitive to injury and tend to get dark at the ends. Cutting back ponytail palm leaves is easy to preserve the appearance of the plant. Use good sharp scissors or yard snips to cut off just the discolored parts.
Ponytail Palm Pruning
that if you want to prune any base or woody material, you would literally be removing the trunk. Cutting back ponytail palm is not an effective method of maintenance in that it would leave an open trunk and no greenery. The action would expose the stem to mold and mildew and it would likely rot before it could ever start producing any more leaves or offsets. The plant doesn’t have stems so much, as simply the long strappy leaves that arch out from the slimmest part of the trunk. Ponytail palm pruning is only used if you want to remove the pups for planting. This would be consistent with the definition of removal of base or woody material.
Making a Three Headed Plant
Pruning ponytail plants that are less than 6 inches tall will result in the plant producing more heads. It only works on the very young plants and you should make slightly curved cuts into the main trunk to force growth. Keep the plant in an arid region, without much humidity, to prevent the cut from rotting. Once it calluses, the plant will send out a shoot and eventually leaves to form another cap of foliage. Growers often create two- and three-headed plants in this manner, for larger ponytail palms with extra interest.
How to Prune a Ponytail Palm for Sucker Removal
The suckers are also known by the cuter name — pups. These grow at the base of the thick trunk snuggled up to the parent plant. Also called offsets, they should be divided from the main plant in spring and planted as separate, although cloned, plants. The leaves grow in clumps with a base that attaches to the trunk. The clump is an offset or pup. Use a very sharp, clean knife or pruners for pruning ponytail palms and plant the pups immediately in a gritty potting soil.
Can You Trim Ponytail Palm?
Let’s be clear on the difference between trimming and pruning. Trimming may be done with shears and generally refers to removal of the tips of leaves. Pruning is done with the intention of removing base and woody material for plant rejuvenation, or restoration. The ponytail palm leaves are sensitive to injury and tend to get dark at the ends. Cutting back ponytail palm leaves is easy to preserve the appearance of the plant. Use good sharp scissors or yard snips to cut off just the discolored parts.
Ponytail Palm Pruning
that if you want to prune any base or woody material, you would literally be removing the trunk. Cutting back ponytail palm is not an effective method of maintenance in that it would leave an open trunk and no greenery. The action would expose the stem to mold and mildew and it would likely rot before it could ever start producing any more leaves or offsets. The plant doesn’t have stems so much, as simply the long strappy leaves that arch out from the slimmest part of the trunk. Ponytail palm pruning is only used if you want to remove the pups for planting. This would be consistent with the definition of removal of base or woody material.
Making a Three Headed Plant
Pruning ponytail plants that are less than 6 inches tall will result in the plant producing more heads. It only works on the very young plants and you should make slightly curved cuts into the main trunk to force growth. Keep the plant in an arid region, without much humidity, to prevent the cut from rotting. Once it calluses, the plant will send out a shoot and eventually leaves to form another cap of foliage. Growers often create two- and three-headed plants in this manner, for larger ponytail palms with extra interest.
How to Prune a Ponytail Palm for Sucker Removal
The suckers are also known by the cuter name — pups. These grow at the base of the thick trunk snuggled up to the parent plant. Also called offsets, they should be divided from the main plant in spring and planted as separate, although cloned, plants. The leaves grow in clumps with a base that attaches to the trunk. The clump is an offset or pup. Use a very sharp, clean knife or pruners for pruning ponytail palms and plant the pups immediately in a gritty potting soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lilies are excellent houseplants. They’re easy to care for, they do well in low light, and they’ve been proven by NASA to help purify the air around them. But what do you do when the flowers or even the leaves start to dry up and die? Should peace lilies be pruned? Keep reading to learn more about when and how to prune peace lily plants.
Peace Lily Pruning
Peace lilies are known for their big white bracts, the part we think of as a flower that is actually a modified white leaf surrounding a cluster of tiny flowers on a stalk. After this “flower” has bloomed for a while, it will naturally start to turn green and droop. This is normal, and it just means the flower is spent.
You can clean up the appearance of the plant by deadheading. Peace lilies produce their flowers on stalks that grow up from the base of the plant. Once a stalk has made one flower, it won’t make any more – after the flower fades, the stalk will eventually brown and die as well. Peace lily pruning should be done at the base of the plant. Cut the stalk off as close to the bottom as you can. This will make room for new stalks to emerge.
Pruning a peace lily isn’t limited to the flower stalks. Sometimes leaves yellow and start to shrivel up. This may be due to under watering or too much light, but it can also happen just because of old age. If any of your leaves are turning color or drying out, just cut the offending leaves away at their base. Always disinfect your shears between each cut to prevent the spread of disease. That’s all there is to pruning peace lilies. Nothing too complicated and a very good way to keep your plants looking healthy and happy.
Peace Lily Pruning
Peace lilies are known for their big white bracts, the part we think of as a flower that is actually a modified white leaf surrounding a cluster of tiny flowers on a stalk. After this “flower” has bloomed for a while, it will naturally start to turn green and droop. This is normal, and it just means the flower is spent.
You can clean up the appearance of the plant by deadheading. Peace lilies produce their flowers on stalks that grow up from the base of the plant. Once a stalk has made one flower, it won’t make any more – after the flower fades, the stalk will eventually brown and die as well. Peace lily pruning should be done at the base of the plant. Cut the stalk off as close to the bottom as you can. This will make room for new stalks to emerge.
Pruning a peace lily isn’t limited to the flower stalks. Sometimes leaves yellow and start to shrivel up. This may be due to under watering or too much light, but it can also happen just because of old age. If any of your leaves are turning color or drying out, just cut the offending leaves away at their base. Always disinfect your shears between each cut to prevent the spread of disease. That’s all there is to pruning peace lilies. Nothing too complicated and a very good way to keep your plants looking healthy and happy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Euphorbia plants (Euphorbia spp.) also go by the easier to say, but less elegant, name of Spurge. They are a family of plants that may be grown as houseplants or occasionally outdoors. There are many varieties of Euphorbia plants, with fascinating forms that range from shrubs, herbs, or cactus-like specimens. Growing Euphorbias is easy and some are hardy in temperate climates. These are easy to start from seed and propagate from cuttings. Learn how to cultivate a Euphorbia plant that will start conversations and cause second looks.
About Euphorbia Plants
Euphorbias occur naturally in many parts of the world, but most notably Africa, Asia, Europe and North and South America. The variation of form and size provide a spectacle of plant life. Some are as large as trees and others range as small ground covers. There are over 2,000 species, many of which you will find familiar from interior commercial plantings. Crown of thorns is recognizable by its spiky stems, and donkey spurge is aptly named with thick rope-like stems sprawling away from the plant. Poinsettias are a form of Euphorbia that is recognizable to almost everyone. Most varieties of Euphorbia plants produce weird and unusual flowers. Gardeners should be cautious when handling Spurge, as all varieties have a milky latex sap that can be irritating or even poisonous.
How to Cultivate a Euphorbia Plant
As a general rule, Spurge requires well-drained soil in full sun. A few tolerate shadier conditions, but none of the family is fussy about soil condition. They even thrive in very poor soils and can tolerate periods of drought. Euphorbia plant care is simple. Provide them light, moderate moisture and watch for annoying pests, like whitefly. Provide water under the plant’s leaves to prevent powdery mildew. You will not need to fertilize Spurge often. Wait until the bottom leaves become yellow before feeding with a water-soluble plant food. Prune when the plant gets out of hand. These plants are almost impossible to kill and are a perfect choice for the novice gardener. Growing Euphorbia to share with a friend is also a great beginner propagation project.
Additional Growing Tips for Euphorbia
Spurge grows quite well from seeds sown indoors in pots. You can propagate Euphorbia more quickly and easily by gathering up the “volunteers” around an established plant. You may also root stem cuttings in a soilless medium, such as peat. Keep them lightly misted and enclose the pot in a bag to keep moisture in. Let the pot breathe once a day for an hour, so the soil does not mold. Once the cutting has rooted, you can pot it in regular soil or plant outdoors in moderate climates. One of the more important growing tips for Euphorbia is to let the stem cutting dry for a few days before planting. This allows the sap to form a callus on the cut end and prevents rotting. Whether you want a giant thornless cactus specimen 6 feet tall or a creeping, sweetly flowering ground cover, you should try growing Euphorbias. They reward the gardener with more than just good looks, but remind us all of the variety and beauty found in nature.
About Euphorbia Plants
Euphorbias occur naturally in many parts of the world, but most notably Africa, Asia, Europe and North and South America. The variation of form and size provide a spectacle of plant life. Some are as large as trees and others range as small ground covers. There are over 2,000 species, many of which you will find familiar from interior commercial plantings. Crown of thorns is recognizable by its spiky stems, and donkey spurge is aptly named with thick rope-like stems sprawling away from the plant. Poinsettias are a form of Euphorbia that is recognizable to almost everyone. Most varieties of Euphorbia plants produce weird and unusual flowers. Gardeners should be cautious when handling Spurge, as all varieties have a milky latex sap that can be irritating or even poisonous.
How to Cultivate a Euphorbia Plant
As a general rule, Spurge requires well-drained soil in full sun. A few tolerate shadier conditions, but none of the family is fussy about soil condition. They even thrive in very poor soils and can tolerate periods of drought. Euphorbia plant care is simple. Provide them light, moderate moisture and watch for annoying pests, like whitefly. Provide water under the plant’s leaves to prevent powdery mildew. You will not need to fertilize Spurge often. Wait until the bottom leaves become yellow before feeding with a water-soluble plant food. Prune when the plant gets out of hand. These plants are almost impossible to kill and are a perfect choice for the novice gardener. Growing Euphorbia to share with a friend is also a great beginner propagation project.
Additional Growing Tips for Euphorbia
Spurge grows quite well from seeds sown indoors in pots. You can propagate Euphorbia more quickly and easily by gathering up the “volunteers” around an established plant. You may also root stem cuttings in a soilless medium, such as peat. Keep them lightly misted and enclose the pot in a bag to keep moisture in. Let the pot breathe once a day for an hour, so the soil does not mold. Once the cutting has rooted, you can pot it in regular soil or plant outdoors in moderate climates. One of the more important growing tips for Euphorbia is to let the stem cutting dry for a few days before planting. This allows the sap to form a callus on the cut end and prevents rotting. Whether you want a giant thornless cactus specimen 6 feet tall or a creeping, sweetly flowering ground cover, you should try growing Euphorbias. They reward the gardener with more than just good looks, but remind us all of the variety and beauty found in nature.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Begonias are probably one of the most varied and well-known houseplants. The varieties of begonias number in the thousands, and their popularity is quite apparent. Begonia blooms range from small and delicate to large and roselike. More popular than begonia blooms, the leaves of certain begonia varieties grow into mosaic patterns of varying colors. Several factors cause begonia leaves to fall off suddenly and rot.
Water
The most common reason begonia leaves rot is too frequent watering. Begonias are succulent plants with stems that are mostly water, which makes them very sensitive to moisture and fungus. Overwatering begonias causes their leaves to turn yellow, a process called chlorosis. Eventually, those leaves rot and then fall off. If you see brown spots on the leaves as well, they have the fungal infection botrytis, which thrives in cool and wet conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
Other factors that affect begonia leaves' health are temperature and humidity. Begonias originate from tropical environs and are accustomed to growing in bright, warm and humid conditions. Even if you water your begonia properly, high humidity along with cool temperatures can increase the likelihood that the begonia will suffer from leaf rot and/or botrytis.
Treatment
If your begonia's leaves begin to yellow, all hope is not lost. One of the first ways to stave off chlorosis is to give your begonia a 1/2-strength fertilizer to boost its nutrient intake. If your begonia has yellowing or rotting leaves, another treatment is to change its growing conditions by moving it to a sunnier, warmer place; if a begonia shows signs of chlorosis, it probably is not happy in its location. If your begonia has botrytis spots on its leaves, cut off and dispose of the leaves to avert the fungus' spread.
Prevention
Preventing leaf rot and botrytis requires a few simple measures. When purchasing or planting a begonia, ensure that the potting mixture is light, airy and drains easily; that will prevent the begonia from sitting in water. Plant or buy a begonia in a pot that matches the begonia's size; an oversized pot holds more water in the soil than the begonia can use at one time, resulting in the plant sitting in water. Grow begonias in a sunny or partly sunny location to increase their location's temperature, which will prevent rot and fungus.
Water
The most common reason begonia leaves rot is too frequent watering. Begonias are succulent plants with stems that are mostly water, which makes them very sensitive to moisture and fungus. Overwatering begonias causes their leaves to turn yellow, a process called chlorosis. Eventually, those leaves rot and then fall off. If you see brown spots on the leaves as well, they have the fungal infection botrytis, which thrives in cool and wet conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
Other factors that affect begonia leaves' health are temperature and humidity. Begonias originate from tropical environs and are accustomed to growing in bright, warm and humid conditions. Even if you water your begonia properly, high humidity along with cool temperatures can increase the likelihood that the begonia will suffer from leaf rot and/or botrytis.
Treatment
If your begonia's leaves begin to yellow, all hope is not lost. One of the first ways to stave off chlorosis is to give your begonia a 1/2-strength fertilizer to boost its nutrient intake. If your begonia has yellowing or rotting leaves, another treatment is to change its growing conditions by moving it to a sunnier, warmer place; if a begonia shows signs of chlorosis, it probably is not happy in its location. If your begonia has botrytis spots on its leaves, cut off and dispose of the leaves to avert the fungus' spread.
Prevention
Preventing leaf rot and botrytis requires a few simple measures. When purchasing or planting a begonia, ensure that the potting mixture is light, airy and drains easily; that will prevent the begonia from sitting in water. Plant or buy a begonia in a pot that matches the begonia's size; an oversized pot holds more water in the soil than the begonia can use at one time, resulting in the plant sitting in water. Grow begonias in a sunny or partly sunny location to increase their location's temperature, which will prevent rot and fungus.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum spp.), with their smooth, white blossoms, exude serenity and calm. Although they are not actually lilies, these plants are among the most common tropical plants grown as houseplants in this country. Peace lilies are tough and resilient, but they are susceptible to a few pests and diseases. Read on more information about peace lily plant problems, including common diseases in Spathiphyllum plants.
Peace Lily Plant Problems
Peace lilies may be tropical plants but they do not require kid-glove care. On the other hand, the better your cultural care matches the plant’s needs, the less peace lily plant problems you are likely to encounter.
Peace lilies need indirect light, never direct light. If you position your plant a couple of feet from a window, it should be fine. Another alternative is to put it near fluorescent lights. Sufficient light is essential to preventing diseases in Spathiphyllum. These lovely plants prefer a humid location. They thrive in warm, moist conditions. You can satisfy your peace lily and avoid peace lily plant problems by keeping the temperature between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (18-26 C.). Increase the humidity for your peace lily by setting the plant on a tray filled with pebbles and water. Watering too often can bring on diseases of peace lily plants. Wait until you see the plant wilting before adding more water.
Pests and Diseases of Peace Lily Plants
Taking good care of your peace lily will mean it’s less likely to suffer from pests and diseases. Remove all dead leaves from the plant and the pot. Wipe down green leaves with a damp cloth occasionally to remove dust. Check the plant’s leaves for pests like spider mites, mealybugsand scale. These might have come into your home on other plants and can cause peace lily plant problems if not removed or treated. When it comes to diseases of peace lily plants, the two most common diseases in Spathiphyllum are Cylindrocladium spathiphylli and Phytophthora parasitica, both causing root rot diseases. The former type of root rot is transferred among plants by infected water, the second by infected soil.
If your plant has root rot, you’ll need to think about treating peace lily diseases. First, try to figure out what your plant has. You’ll recognize root rot disease in Spathiphyllum if you notice that a peace lily has yellowing leaves and a wilting appearance. If its roots are also rotting, it likely has root rot. Oftentimes, cleaning off the roots and repotting the plant in fresh, healthy soil will help.
Peace Lily Plant Problems
Peace lilies may be tropical plants but they do not require kid-glove care. On the other hand, the better your cultural care matches the plant’s needs, the less peace lily plant problems you are likely to encounter.
Peace lilies need indirect light, never direct light. If you position your plant a couple of feet from a window, it should be fine. Another alternative is to put it near fluorescent lights. Sufficient light is essential to preventing diseases in Spathiphyllum. These lovely plants prefer a humid location. They thrive in warm, moist conditions. You can satisfy your peace lily and avoid peace lily plant problems by keeping the temperature between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (18-26 C.). Increase the humidity for your peace lily by setting the plant on a tray filled with pebbles and water. Watering too often can bring on diseases of peace lily plants. Wait until you see the plant wilting before adding more water.
Pests and Diseases of Peace Lily Plants
Taking good care of your peace lily will mean it’s less likely to suffer from pests and diseases. Remove all dead leaves from the plant and the pot. Wipe down green leaves with a damp cloth occasionally to remove dust. Check the plant’s leaves for pests like spider mites, mealybugsand scale. These might have come into your home on other plants and can cause peace lily plant problems if not removed or treated. When it comes to diseases of peace lily plants, the two most common diseases in Spathiphyllum are Cylindrocladium spathiphylli and Phytophthora parasitica, both causing root rot diseases. The former type of root rot is transferred among plants by infected water, the second by infected soil.
If your plant has root rot, you’ll need to think about treating peace lily diseases. First, try to figure out what your plant has. You’ll recognize root rot disease in Spathiphyllum if you notice that a peace lily has yellowing leaves and a wilting appearance. If its roots are also rotting, it likely has root rot. Oftentimes, cleaning off the roots and repotting the plant in fresh, healthy soil will help.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
For unique interest in the home, look for the Fittonia nerve plant. When purchasing these plants, be aware it may also be called the mosaic plant or painted net leaf. Growing nerve plants is easy and so is nerve plant care.
Fittonia Nerve Houseplants
The nerve plant, or Fittonia argyroneura, from the Acanthaceae (Acanthus) family, is a tropically found plant with striking leaves of pink and green, white and green, or green and red. Foliage is primarily olive green with veining taking on the alternate hue. For specific color characteristics, look for other Fittonia nerve houseplant, such as F. argyroneura with silver white veins or F. pearcei, the carmine pink-veined beauty.
Named for its 19th century discoverers, the botanists Elizabeth and Sarah May Fitton, the Fittonia nerve plant does indeed flower. The blooms are insignificant reddish to white spikes and tend to blend in with the remainder of the foliage. The blooms of the nerve plant are rarely seen when it is grown indoors as a houseplant. Hailing from Peru and other areas of the South American rain forest, this colorful houseplant craves high humidity but not too much irrigation. This little beauty does well in terrariums, hanging baskets, dish gardens or even as a ground cover in the right climate. The foliage is low growing and trailing with oval-shaped leaves on rooting mat forming stems. To propagate the plant, these rooted stem pieces may be divided or tip cuttings may be taken to create new Fittonia nerve houseplants.
Nerve Plant Care
As the nerve plant originates in a tropical setting, it flourishes within a high humidity environment. Misting may be required to maintain humid-like conditions. Fittonia nerve plant likes well drained moist soil, but not too wet. Water moderately and let growing nerve plants dry out between waterings. Use room temperature water on the plant to avoid shock. Growing about 3 to 6 inches by 12 to 18 inches or longer, the Fittonia nerve plant tolerates bright light to shade conditions but will truly flourish with bright, indirect light. Low light exposure will cause these plants to revert to green, losing the veins vibrant splashes of color. Growing nerve plants should be placed in a warm area, avoiding drafts which will shock the plant just as water that is too cold or hot. Think rain forest conditions and treat your Fittonia nerve houseplants accordingly. Feed as recommended for tropical houseplants per the instructions of your fertilizer brand. The trailing nature of the plant can lead to a straggly appearance. Prune the tips of the nerve plant to create a bushier plant.
Nerve Plant Problems
Nerve plant problems are few; however, as mentioned above, avoid overwatering as this can lead to root rot. Xanthomonas leaf spot, which causes necropsy of the veins, and mosaic virus may also afflict the plant. Pests may include aphids, mealybugs and thrips.
Fittonia Nerve Houseplants
The nerve plant, or Fittonia argyroneura, from the Acanthaceae (Acanthus) family, is a tropically found plant with striking leaves of pink and green, white and green, or green and red. Foliage is primarily olive green with veining taking on the alternate hue. For specific color characteristics, look for other Fittonia nerve houseplant, such as F. argyroneura with silver white veins or F. pearcei, the carmine pink-veined beauty.
Named for its 19th century discoverers, the botanists Elizabeth and Sarah May Fitton, the Fittonia nerve plant does indeed flower. The blooms are insignificant reddish to white spikes and tend to blend in with the remainder of the foliage. The blooms of the nerve plant are rarely seen when it is grown indoors as a houseplant. Hailing from Peru and other areas of the South American rain forest, this colorful houseplant craves high humidity but not too much irrigation. This little beauty does well in terrariums, hanging baskets, dish gardens or even as a ground cover in the right climate. The foliage is low growing and trailing with oval-shaped leaves on rooting mat forming stems. To propagate the plant, these rooted stem pieces may be divided or tip cuttings may be taken to create new Fittonia nerve houseplants.
Nerve Plant Care
As the nerve plant originates in a tropical setting, it flourishes within a high humidity environment. Misting may be required to maintain humid-like conditions. Fittonia nerve plant likes well drained moist soil, but not too wet. Water moderately and let growing nerve plants dry out between waterings. Use room temperature water on the plant to avoid shock. Growing about 3 to 6 inches by 12 to 18 inches or longer, the Fittonia nerve plant tolerates bright light to shade conditions but will truly flourish with bright, indirect light. Low light exposure will cause these plants to revert to green, losing the veins vibrant splashes of color. Growing nerve plants should be placed in a warm area, avoiding drafts which will shock the plant just as water that is too cold or hot. Think rain forest conditions and treat your Fittonia nerve houseplants accordingly. Feed as recommended for tropical houseplants per the instructions of your fertilizer brand. The trailing nature of the plant can lead to a straggly appearance. Prune the tips of the nerve plant to create a bushier plant.
Nerve Plant Problems
Nerve plant problems are few; however, as mentioned above, avoid overwatering as this can lead to root rot. Xanthomonas leaf spot, which causes necropsy of the veins, and mosaic virus may also afflict the plant. Pests may include aphids, mealybugs and thrips.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Lucky bamboo plants (Dracaena sanderiana) are common houseplants, and are fun and easy to grow. Indoors, they can quickly reach a height of 3 feet (91 cm.) or more, prompting gardeners to ask, “Can you prune lucky bamboo?” Fortunately, the answer to that question is a resounding “yes!”—and it is a cinch to do.
Can You Prune Lucky Bamboo Plants?
Lucky bamboo isn’t really a type of bamboo at all, but rather a plant in a genus of trees and shrubs called Dracaena. Because lucky bamboo grows so fast, it has a tendency to become top-heavy, and the extra weight puts stress on the roots and the rest of the plant. Cutting back a lucky bamboo plant invigorates and refreshes it and encourages new growth. If desired, selective lucky bamboo plant pruning can even change the shape of the plant entirely.
When to Prune a Lucky Bamboo Plant
When to prune a lucky bamboo plant depends on the height of the plant. You don’t have to wait until a certain time of year to do the job. You can prune lucky bamboo whenever it gets too large to manage.
Lucky Bamboo Plant Pruning
Using very sharp, sterile pruning shears, cut back any shoots that are thin, overly long, or growing crookedly. The shoots are the stems that have leaves on them. Trim back shoots to a length of 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) from the stalk. This will encourage more shoots to grow from the cut area and will create a denser, bushier look. If you wish to cut back your lucky bamboo more drastically, with the intention to reshape it, you can cut as many shoots as you want flush to the stalk. Usually, new shoots will not regrow from the pruned areas due to the close cuts. Alternatively, you can cut the stalk to the desired height. Because of the possibility of infection, this is riskier than simply trimming shoots away. Plan carefully before you prune and be aware that the stalk will not grow any taller than where you make the cut. Only the new shoots will increase in height. If you take a close look at the stalk of your lucky bamboo plant, you will see clearly defined rings, called nodes, on it. Make your pruning cut just above one of the nodes. Your cuts must be clean and smooth to minimize the chance of infection. There is no need to cut either the shoots or the stalk at an angle. With a little planning and a few choice cuts, pruning lucky bamboo plants is an easy task!
Can You Prune Lucky Bamboo Plants?
Lucky bamboo isn’t really a type of bamboo at all, but rather a plant in a genus of trees and shrubs called Dracaena. Because lucky bamboo grows so fast, it has a tendency to become top-heavy, and the extra weight puts stress on the roots and the rest of the plant. Cutting back a lucky bamboo plant invigorates and refreshes it and encourages new growth. If desired, selective lucky bamboo plant pruning can even change the shape of the plant entirely.
When to Prune a Lucky Bamboo Plant
When to prune a lucky bamboo plant depends on the height of the plant. You don’t have to wait until a certain time of year to do the job. You can prune lucky bamboo whenever it gets too large to manage.
Lucky Bamboo Plant Pruning
Using very sharp, sterile pruning shears, cut back any shoots that are thin, overly long, or growing crookedly. The shoots are the stems that have leaves on them. Trim back shoots to a length of 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) from the stalk. This will encourage more shoots to grow from the cut area and will create a denser, bushier look. If you wish to cut back your lucky bamboo more drastically, with the intention to reshape it, you can cut as many shoots as you want flush to the stalk. Usually, new shoots will not regrow from the pruned areas due to the close cuts. Alternatively, you can cut the stalk to the desired height. Because of the possibility of infection, this is riskier than simply trimming shoots away. Plan carefully before you prune and be aware that the stalk will not grow any taller than where you make the cut. Only the new shoots will increase in height. If you take a close look at the stalk of your lucky bamboo plant, you will see clearly defined rings, called nodes, on it. Make your pruning cut just above one of the nodes. Your cuts must be clean and smooth to minimize the chance of infection. There is no need to cut either the shoots or the stalk at an angle. With a little planning and a few choice cuts, pruning lucky bamboo plants is an easy task!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
The indoor panda plant is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Kalanchoe panda plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the décor. Keep reading to answer the question of what is Kalanchoe tormentosa and how to grow a panda plant indoors.
What is a Panda Plant (Kalanchoe Tomentosa)?
More than 100 varieties of Kalanchoe grow in the wilds of Africa and other parts of the Old World. Kalanchoe tomentosa grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Kalanchoe panda plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, panda plant growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet in height and 2 feet around. Further information on growing Kalanchoe panda plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. Tomentosa means densely woolly or velvety. The plant is also commonly called pussy ears as well.
How to Grow a Panda Plant
Locate the indoor panda plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of panda plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink. You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a panda plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor panda plant can live for many years in these conditions. Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of panda plant care.
Propagating Indoor Panda Plant
When you’re growing Kalanchoe panda plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the indoor panda plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants. Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container. Blooms are rare when growing Kalanchoe panda plants indoors. If you wish to grow a Kalanchoe with regular indoor blossoms, look to the cultivar Kalanchoe blossfeldiana hybrids.
What is a Panda Plant (Kalanchoe Tomentosa)?
More than 100 varieties of Kalanchoe grow in the wilds of Africa and other parts of the Old World. Kalanchoe tomentosa grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Kalanchoe panda plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, panda plant growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet in height and 2 feet around. Further information on growing Kalanchoe panda plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. Tomentosa means densely woolly or velvety. The plant is also commonly called pussy ears as well.
How to Grow a Panda Plant
Locate the indoor panda plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of panda plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink. You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a panda plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor panda plant can live for many years in these conditions. Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of panda plant care.
Propagating Indoor Panda Plant
When you’re growing Kalanchoe panda plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the indoor panda plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants. Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container. Blooms are rare when growing Kalanchoe panda plants indoors. If you wish to grow a Kalanchoe with regular indoor blossoms, look to the cultivar Kalanchoe blossfeldiana hybrids.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Lots of plants that we grow outside as ornamentals are actually warm weather perennials that can be grown year round indoors. As long as these plants receive plenty of sunlight, they can be kept as houseplants all year or just moved inside when the weather gets colder. Keep reading to learn more about ornamental plants you can grow indoors.
Indoor Ornamentals
Growing outdoor ornamentals as houseplants is often easy, as long as you pick a plant that thrives at room temperature and doesn’t need too much light. Some popular low-maintenance ornamental plants you can grow indoors are:
Asparagus fern – Asparagus fern grows quickly, making deep green foliage dotted with delicate flowers and bright red berries. It works very well in a container. Geranium – Geraniums will bloom all through the winter, as long as they’re in a bright window. Caladium – Caladium, also called elephant ear, grows well indoors and will remain colorful all winter in indirect sunlight. Ivy – Ivy does very well in the shade and can be planted to drape over the edge of a pot, creating a nice cascade effect from a tall shelf or table.
Some indoor ornamental plants require a little more care, however.
Begonias can be brought inside, but they need some maintenance. They like high humidity, but they also like their soil to dry out between waterings. To achieve this, line your plant’s saucer with pebbles – this will keep the pot’s runoff water from evaporating as quickly. Also, mist the plant between waterings to keep it moist. Hot pepper plants can be grown as interesting houseplant ornamentals. As summer winds down, dig up your plant and put it in a pot. The pot will need bright direct sunlight, possibly from a grow light. You’ll also need to watch the leaves for aphids, which can get out of hand.
Basically, as long as you can provide the plants with whatever they need to thrive, you should be able to grow nearly any type of ornamental garden plant indoors.
Indoor Ornamentals
Growing outdoor ornamentals as houseplants is often easy, as long as you pick a plant that thrives at room temperature and doesn’t need too much light. Some popular low-maintenance ornamental plants you can grow indoors are:
Asparagus fern – Asparagus fern grows quickly, making deep green foliage dotted with delicate flowers and bright red berries. It works very well in a container. Geranium – Geraniums will bloom all through the winter, as long as they’re in a bright window. Caladium – Caladium, also called elephant ear, grows well indoors and will remain colorful all winter in indirect sunlight. Ivy – Ivy does very well in the shade and can be planted to drape over the edge of a pot, creating a nice cascade effect from a tall shelf or table.
Some indoor ornamental plants require a little more care, however.
Begonias can be brought inside, but they need some maintenance. They like high humidity, but they also like their soil to dry out between waterings. To achieve this, line your plant’s saucer with pebbles – this will keep the pot’s runoff water from evaporating as quickly. Also, mist the plant between waterings to keep it moist. Hot pepper plants can be grown as interesting houseplant ornamentals. As summer winds down, dig up your plant and put it in a pot. The pot will need bright direct sunlight, possibly from a grow light. You’ll also need to watch the leaves for aphids, which can get out of hand.
Basically, as long as you can provide the plants with whatever they need to thrive, you should be able to grow nearly any type of ornamental garden plant indoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Large Victorian homes often featured solariums, open, airy parlors and conservatories as well as greenhouses. Plants were an important part of the interior decor with some Victorian era houseplants the overwhelming stars. The most popular Victorian houseplants of the day are still around today and can add a touch of old world elegance to your home interior. Read on for some options that will bring a touch of nostalgia and sophistication to your home.
Houseplants Victorian Style
Nostalgic fads of the Victorian era have a classic stylishness even today. Some of the more interesting home decor practices involved the use of plants inside. Plants were inexpensive, brought the outdoors in and could change a room in a heartbeat from a fussy, old maid’s parlor to a tropical haven. Most of us have heard of the use of palms as parlor plants. In fact, there is a variety that is called the parlor palm. But other than these easy to grow, graceful plants, what other greenery did Victorian era homes use to brighten the interior?
Houseplants were incorporated in many rooms of the home. For instance:
The summer fireplace was turned into a miniature garden to hide the smoke stained gaping hole that wouldn’t be used for months. Window gardens were also popular and a host of hanging supports were available to suspend plants right in front of the best lighting in the home. Victorian indoor plants were also often contained in Wardian cases. These were similar to a terrarium and often featured a handsome case and elaborate stand. Parlor plants made inviting hosts to guests as they arrived for a visit. Houseplants Victorian style were also usually in containers that ranged from elegant to opulent. Display was as important as the plant.
Types of Victorian Indoor Plants
Victorian era houseplants might simply be plants dug up from the local woods or those that were imported and exotic varieties. Among some other favorites included:
Palms
Ferns
Jasmine
Heliotropes
Potted citrus trees
Sword ferns and later Boston ferns were graceful additions to any room and still carry an air of chic about them today. Cast iron plant is an indestructible specimen that even a gardener with a black thumb can manage to keep alive. Depending upon the exposure available in the home, flowering specimens would often be incorporated into the décor as well. Abutilons, or parlor maples, are native to Brazil and were popular Victorian houseplants. These have papery, dangling hibiscus type flowers and leaves shaped like lacy maples. Jerusalem cherry, native to Peru, brought a festive touch at the holidays with white flowers that become reddish-orange berries.
With the advent of easier travel, more and more interesting and unique houseplants began to arrive and soon the possibilities were nearly endless. Satisfying the Victorian green thumb became much easier and we can enjoy the same selection of plants today.
Houseplants Victorian Style
Nostalgic fads of the Victorian era have a classic stylishness even today. Some of the more interesting home decor practices involved the use of plants inside. Plants were inexpensive, brought the outdoors in and could change a room in a heartbeat from a fussy, old maid’s parlor to a tropical haven. Most of us have heard of the use of palms as parlor plants. In fact, there is a variety that is called the parlor palm. But other than these easy to grow, graceful plants, what other greenery did Victorian era homes use to brighten the interior?
Houseplants were incorporated in many rooms of the home. For instance:
The summer fireplace was turned into a miniature garden to hide the smoke stained gaping hole that wouldn’t be used for months. Window gardens were also popular and a host of hanging supports were available to suspend plants right in front of the best lighting in the home. Victorian indoor plants were also often contained in Wardian cases. These were similar to a terrarium and often featured a handsome case and elaborate stand. Parlor plants made inviting hosts to guests as they arrived for a visit. Houseplants Victorian style were also usually in containers that ranged from elegant to opulent. Display was as important as the plant.
Types of Victorian Indoor Plants
Victorian era houseplants might simply be plants dug up from the local woods or those that were imported and exotic varieties. Among some other favorites included:
Palms
Ferns
Jasmine
Heliotropes
Potted citrus trees
Sword ferns and later Boston ferns were graceful additions to any room and still carry an air of chic about them today. Cast iron plant is an indestructible specimen that even a gardener with a black thumb can manage to keep alive. Depending upon the exposure available in the home, flowering specimens would often be incorporated into the décor as well. Abutilons, or parlor maples, are native to Brazil and were popular Victorian houseplants. These have papery, dangling hibiscus type flowers and leaves shaped like lacy maples. Jerusalem cherry, native to Peru, brought a festive touch at the holidays with white flowers that become reddish-orange berries.
With the advent of easier travel, more and more interesting and unique houseplants began to arrive and soon the possibilities were nearly endless. Satisfying the Victorian green thumb became much easier and we can enjoy the same selection of plants today.
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