文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
When it comes to French vs. English lavender there are some important differences. Not every lavender plant is the same, although they are all great to grow in the garden or as houseplants. Know the differences between these popular types to choose the best one for your conditions and needs.
Are English and French Lavender Different?
They are related, but different types of lavender. French lavender is Lavendula dentata and it is not actually that commonly cultivated, although we often think of France when picturing fields of lavender. English lavender is Lavendula angustifolia. This variety is much more commonly cultivated and is typical in gardens and containers. Here are some other important differences:
Hardiness. A big difference between French and English lavender is that the latter is much hardier. French lavender is only hardy through about zone 8 and won’t tolerate cold winters. Size. French lavender is large and will grow from about two to three feet (.5 to 1 meter) tall and wide, while English lavender stays much smaller and more compact, although it may grow up to two feet. Bloom time. The flowers on these plants are similar in size, but they last much longer on French lavender. This variety has one of the longest bloom times, starting in spring and continuing to produce flowers throughout the summer. Scent. If you’re looking for the characteristic lavender smell, choose English lavender. It produces the strong scent that permeates the air, while French lavender has a much lighter scent, which while nice, is more reminiscent of rosemary.
Other Types of Lavender
French and English are just two of many varieties of this popular plant. You’ll also see Spanish lavender, which like French lavender, has a softer scent and is used more for landscaping than for producing the scented oil. Lavandin is a hybrid cultivar that was developed to produce even more oil than English lavender, so it has a very potent aroma. French and English lavender varieties are both great plants, but they are not the same. Along with the other types of lavender, you have plenty of options to choose the right variety for your home or garden.
Are English and French Lavender Different?
They are related, but different types of lavender. French lavender is Lavendula dentata and it is not actually that commonly cultivated, although we often think of France when picturing fields of lavender. English lavender is Lavendula angustifolia. This variety is much more commonly cultivated and is typical in gardens and containers. Here are some other important differences:
Hardiness. A big difference between French and English lavender is that the latter is much hardier. French lavender is only hardy through about zone 8 and won’t tolerate cold winters. Size. French lavender is large and will grow from about two to three feet (.5 to 1 meter) tall and wide, while English lavender stays much smaller and more compact, although it may grow up to two feet. Bloom time. The flowers on these plants are similar in size, but they last much longer on French lavender. This variety has one of the longest bloom times, starting in spring and continuing to produce flowers throughout the summer. Scent. If you’re looking for the characteristic lavender smell, choose English lavender. It produces the strong scent that permeates the air, while French lavender has a much lighter scent, which while nice, is more reminiscent of rosemary.
Other Types of Lavender
French and English are just two of many varieties of this popular plant. You’ll also see Spanish lavender, which like French lavender, has a softer scent and is used more for landscaping than for producing the scented oil. Lavandin is a hybrid cultivar that was developed to produce even more oil than English lavender, so it has a very potent aroma. French and English lavender varieties are both great plants, but they are not the same. Along with the other types of lavender, you have plenty of options to choose the right variety for your home or garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Moon cactus make popular houseplants. They are the result of grafting two different plants to achieve the colorful top part, which is due to a mutation in that grafted part. When should moon cactus be repotted? Spring is the best time for repotting moon cactus, although the cactus prefers to be rather crowded and doesn’t require a new container more than every few years. New soil, however, is beneficial, as the old soil will lose nutrients and texture over time.
Should Moon Cactus be Repotted?
Most moon cactus plants are the result of grafting Gymnocalycium mihanovichii to a base of Hylocereus. The Hylocereus is a chlorophyll producing plant while the Gymnocalycium does not produce its own chlorophyll and requires the assistance of the Hylocereus to produce food. These tiny cacti do not require repotting very frequently, but you should know when and how to repot moon cactus at least every 3 to 4 years. Cactus plants generally grow in inhospitable terrain with low fertility soil and rocky medium. They can wedge themselves into cracks and crevices with little wiggle room for roots and seem to like it that way. Similarly, a potted cactus enjoys some crowding and only needs an inch or so between itself and the container edge. The usual reason for moon cactus repotting is to change the soil. If the plant needs a new container, it will begin to show roots out of the drainage holes. This is a sign that a new slightly larger container is required to allow the plant to grow further. Choose containers that drain well and are not glazed. This is to allow any excess moisture to evaporate, an important consideration in cactus.
How to Repot a Moon Cactus
As mentioned, spring is the best time to repot cactus. This is because they are actively beginning to grow and root development is starting back up, which leads to a successful transplant. Once you have your container for repotting moon cactus, it is time to turn your attention to the new soil. A general cactus mix is sufficient but many growers have better success when they create their own moon cactus potting mix. Equal parts of a peat-based potting soil mixed with coarse sand makes an excellent and well-draining medium. Many gardeners also add some fine gravel to the bottom of the container to enhance drainage. Fill the container half way with your moon cactus potting mixture and lightly moisten it. A couple of days before repotting your cactus, water it well so the roots are moistened. Use gloves if you are worried about the little plant’s spines and carefully remove it from its container. Insert the plant at the same level at which it was growing and gently pack more of the medium around the roots. Leave enough room at the top of the container so water doesn’t spill over. Add a thin layer of gravel or sand as a mulch to the top of the container. Wait a week before watering the newly planted cactus. Water the cactus when the top inch of soil is dry during the growing season but only once every 2 or 3 weeks in winter. Apply fertilizer in spring, such as a 5-10-10 every 2 to 3 months and suspend fertilizing in winter when the plant is not actively growing.
Should Moon Cactus be Repotted?
Most moon cactus plants are the result of grafting Gymnocalycium mihanovichii to a base of Hylocereus. The Hylocereus is a chlorophyll producing plant while the Gymnocalycium does not produce its own chlorophyll and requires the assistance of the Hylocereus to produce food. These tiny cacti do not require repotting very frequently, but you should know when and how to repot moon cactus at least every 3 to 4 years. Cactus plants generally grow in inhospitable terrain with low fertility soil and rocky medium. They can wedge themselves into cracks and crevices with little wiggle room for roots and seem to like it that way. Similarly, a potted cactus enjoys some crowding and only needs an inch or so between itself and the container edge. The usual reason for moon cactus repotting is to change the soil. If the plant needs a new container, it will begin to show roots out of the drainage holes. This is a sign that a new slightly larger container is required to allow the plant to grow further. Choose containers that drain well and are not glazed. This is to allow any excess moisture to evaporate, an important consideration in cactus.
How to Repot a Moon Cactus
As mentioned, spring is the best time to repot cactus. This is because they are actively beginning to grow and root development is starting back up, which leads to a successful transplant. Once you have your container for repotting moon cactus, it is time to turn your attention to the new soil. A general cactus mix is sufficient but many growers have better success when they create their own moon cactus potting mix. Equal parts of a peat-based potting soil mixed with coarse sand makes an excellent and well-draining medium. Many gardeners also add some fine gravel to the bottom of the container to enhance drainage. Fill the container half way with your moon cactus potting mixture and lightly moisten it. A couple of days before repotting your cactus, water it well so the roots are moistened. Use gloves if you are worried about the little plant’s spines and carefully remove it from its container. Insert the plant at the same level at which it was growing and gently pack more of the medium around the roots. Leave enough room at the top of the container so water doesn’t spill over. Add a thin layer of gravel or sand as a mulch to the top of the container. Wait a week before watering the newly planted cactus. Water the cactus when the top inch of soil is dry during the growing season but only once every 2 or 3 weeks in winter. Apply fertilizer in spring, such as a 5-10-10 every 2 to 3 months and suspend fertilizing in winter when the plant is not actively growing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
One of the sweetest and most charming cactus varieties are the Mammillaria. This family of plants is generally small, clustered and widely found as houseplants. Most types of Mammillaria are native to Mexico and the name comes from the Latin “nipple,” referring to the standard appearance of most of the plants. Mammillaria are popular plants and common in many nursery centers with ease of care and propagation counted as some of their more appealing features. Read on for more Mammillaria information and descriptions of some of the more interesting plants in the family.
Mammillaria Information
Mammillaria cactus varieties can span sizes from one inch in diameter (2.5 cm.) to one foot in height (30 cm.). The majority of the readily available species are the ground hugging variety. As interior plants, growing Mammillaria couldn’t be easier. They need well-draining soil, good light and warm temperatures. There are over 300 species of Mammillaria but most you won’t see in the nursery. The tried and true varieties that thrive as houseplants are the easiest to find and provide a glimpse into the Mexican desert. Mammillaria need a cooling period to promote blooming. Flowers are funnel shaped in colors of yellow, pink, red, green and white. The family name stems from the nipple-shaped tubercles which are spirally arranged. The areoles, from which spines grow, can produce hair like or wooly spines that are either stiff or soft and in a range of colors. The arrangement of spines per species gives a wide variety of appearances as do the many flower colors produced by the plants. Mammillaria cactus plants bear spines that are arranged according to the Fibonacci sequence, which states that each lower row of tubercles equals the sum of the previous two rows. This rule gives the plants an orderly patterned appearance when viewed from above.
Growing Mammillaria Cactus
Culture can vary a bit for some Mammillaria species due to differences in their native range. However, most require a small well-draining shallow container, cactus mix or a blend of potting soil and sand, and moderately dry soil except during the growing season. The light should be bright but not of the hottest, searing rays of midday. Supplemental fertilizing is not necessary but some cactus food applied in spring when active growth resumes can help produce healthier plants. These are easy plants to propagate from seed or by dividing offsets. The most common issues are the result of excess moisture and can cause rot. Mealybugs and scale may be irritating pests.
Mammillaria Cactus Varieties
Mammillaria cactus plants have many colorful names which are descriptive of their appearance. One of the cutest types of Mammillaria it the Powder Puff cactus. It has the appearance of soft, fluffy hair adorning the small body but be wary – that stuff will get into skin and leave painful impressions. Similarly, the Feather cactus has a whitish gray, soft cloud of spines that grows a thick cluster of offsets. There are several species of plant called the Pincushion cactus. These produce either flat, cylindrical or conical tubercles, depending upon species. Some of the other interesting common names in the family are: Mother of Hundreds Golden Stars (Lady Fingers) Old Lady Cactus Woolly Nipple Cactus Counter Clockwise Fishhook Thimble Cactus Mexican Claret Cup Strawberry Cactus Cushion Foxtail Cactus Silver Lace Cob Cactus Elephant’s Tooth Owl’s Eyes
Mammillaria Information
Mammillaria cactus varieties can span sizes from one inch in diameter (2.5 cm.) to one foot in height (30 cm.). The majority of the readily available species are the ground hugging variety. As interior plants, growing Mammillaria couldn’t be easier. They need well-draining soil, good light and warm temperatures. There are over 300 species of Mammillaria but most you won’t see in the nursery. The tried and true varieties that thrive as houseplants are the easiest to find and provide a glimpse into the Mexican desert. Mammillaria need a cooling period to promote blooming. Flowers are funnel shaped in colors of yellow, pink, red, green and white. The family name stems from the nipple-shaped tubercles which are spirally arranged. The areoles, from which spines grow, can produce hair like or wooly spines that are either stiff or soft and in a range of colors. The arrangement of spines per species gives a wide variety of appearances as do the many flower colors produced by the plants. Mammillaria cactus plants bear spines that are arranged according to the Fibonacci sequence, which states that each lower row of tubercles equals the sum of the previous two rows. This rule gives the plants an orderly patterned appearance when viewed from above.
Growing Mammillaria Cactus
Culture can vary a bit for some Mammillaria species due to differences in their native range. However, most require a small well-draining shallow container, cactus mix or a blend of potting soil and sand, and moderately dry soil except during the growing season. The light should be bright but not of the hottest, searing rays of midday. Supplemental fertilizing is not necessary but some cactus food applied in spring when active growth resumes can help produce healthier plants. These are easy plants to propagate from seed or by dividing offsets. The most common issues are the result of excess moisture and can cause rot. Mealybugs and scale may be irritating pests.
Mammillaria Cactus Varieties
Mammillaria cactus plants have many colorful names which are descriptive of their appearance. One of the cutest types of Mammillaria it the Powder Puff cactus. It has the appearance of soft, fluffy hair adorning the small body but be wary – that stuff will get into skin and leave painful impressions. Similarly, the Feather cactus has a whitish gray, soft cloud of spines that grows a thick cluster of offsets. There are several species of plant called the Pincushion cactus. These produce either flat, cylindrical or conical tubercles, depending upon species. Some of the other interesting common names in the family are: Mother of Hundreds Golden Stars (Lady Fingers) Old Lady Cactus Woolly Nipple Cactus Counter Clockwise Fishhook Thimble Cactus Mexican Claret Cup Strawberry Cactus Cushion Foxtail Cactus Silver Lace Cob Cactus Elephant’s Tooth Owl’s Eyes
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Venus flytraps are enjoyable and entertaining plants. Their needs and growing conditions are quite different from those of other houseplants. Find out what this unique plant needs to stay strong and healthy, and what to do when Venus flytraps are turning black in this article.
Why to Flytraps Turn Black?
Each trap on a Venus flytrap plant has a limited lifespan. On average, a trap lives about three months. The end may look dramatic, but there is usually nothing wrong with the plant.
When you find that the traps on a Venus flytrap turn black much sooner than they should or when several traps die at once, check your feeding practices and growing conditions. Correcting the problem can save the plant.
Feeding flytraps
Venus flytraps kept indoors depend on their caretakers to provide the insect meals they need to thrive. These plants are so much fun to feed that it’s easy to get carried away. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest the food inside. If you close too many at once, the plant uses all of its reserves and the traps begin to blacken. Wait until the traps are fully open and feed just one or two a week. If you’re feeding the right amount and the Venus flytrap is turning black anyway, perhaps the problem is what you are feeding it. If a bit of the insect, such as a leg or a wing, sticks outside the trap, it won’t be able to make a good seal so that it can digest the food properly. Use insects that are no more than one-third the size of the trap. If the trap catches a bug that is too large on its own just leave it alone. The trap may die, but the plant will survive and grow new traps.
Growing conditions
Venus flytraps are a bit fussy about their soil, water and container. The fertilizers and minerals that are added to commercial potting soils help most plants grow, but they are fatal to Venus flytraps. Use a potting mix labeled specifically for Venus flytraps, or make your own from peat moss and sand or perlite. Clay pots also contain minerals, and they leach out when you water the plant, so use plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Water the plant with filtered water to avoid the introduction of chemicals that may be in your tap water. The plant also needs plenty of sunlight. Strong light coming in from a south-facing window is best. If you don’t have strong natural light available, you will have to use grow lights. Good care and proper conditions are essential to preserve the life and health of the plant.
Why to Flytraps Turn Black?
Each trap on a Venus flytrap plant has a limited lifespan. On average, a trap lives about three months. The end may look dramatic, but there is usually nothing wrong with the plant.
When you find that the traps on a Venus flytrap turn black much sooner than they should or when several traps die at once, check your feeding practices and growing conditions. Correcting the problem can save the plant.
Feeding flytraps
Venus flytraps kept indoors depend on their caretakers to provide the insect meals they need to thrive. These plants are so much fun to feed that it’s easy to get carried away. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest the food inside. If you close too many at once, the plant uses all of its reserves and the traps begin to blacken. Wait until the traps are fully open and feed just one or two a week. If you’re feeding the right amount and the Venus flytrap is turning black anyway, perhaps the problem is what you are feeding it. If a bit of the insect, such as a leg or a wing, sticks outside the trap, it won’t be able to make a good seal so that it can digest the food properly. Use insects that are no more than one-third the size of the trap. If the trap catches a bug that is too large on its own just leave it alone. The trap may die, but the plant will survive and grow new traps.
Growing conditions
Venus flytraps are a bit fussy about their soil, water and container. The fertilizers and minerals that are added to commercial potting soils help most plants grow, but they are fatal to Venus flytraps. Use a potting mix labeled specifically for Venus flytraps, or make your own from peat moss and sand or perlite. Clay pots also contain minerals, and they leach out when you water the plant, so use plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Water the plant with filtered water to avoid the introduction of chemicals that may be in your tap water. The plant also needs plenty of sunlight. Strong light coming in from a south-facing window is best. If you don’t have strong natural light available, you will have to use grow lights. Good care and proper conditions are essential to preserve the life and health of the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Indoor palm trees add an elegant and exotic feel to the home interior. Growing spindle palm indoors is a treat for northern gardeners who usually can’t grow tropical foliage in the garden. Palm tree houseplants are a great way to grow these warm weather beauties in a more diminutive form than the classic boulevard palms, which can exceed 25 feet in height. The more manageable potted palm still has all the class and glamour of its in-ground siblings with space saving sensibility.
Spindle Palm Houseplant
Spindle palm trees are fairly common indoor plants. The tree is endemic to the Mascarene Islands near Madagascar where it thrives in dry, sandy soil. It is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zone 11, but it makes an excellent indoor tree and its growth is slow enough to make it perfect for a container. There are a few things to know about growing spindle palm inside, most importantly is the amount of water this pretty palm should receive.
In their native environment, spindle palms reach 20 to 25 feet in height and can grow 6- to 10-foot-long fronds. The leaves are made up of numerous leaflets, lending the plant a lacy foliage appearance. Notably, this palm has a spindle shaped stem that widens slightly above the base and then constricts near the crown. The effect is unique and appealing, also decorated with a ringed pattern along the trunk. When planted in a container, the tree will grow slowly and remain relatively short in stature. Indoor trees usually attain a height of 6 feet at maturity. Palm tree houseplants are useful in bright light situations, such as a foyer or brightly lit dining room. Try using a spindle palm houseplant in a sunroom for a tropical feel.
Indoor Care for Spindle Palms
One of the best things about the spindle palm houseplant is its easy maintenance. The plant does best in full sun but can tolerate lower lighting. The temperature range for this plant is 35 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 26 C.). A spindle palm indoors requires consistent moisture but a well-draining planting medium to prevent sogginess. The addition of a little gritty material, such as sand, will enhance drainage and provide loose soil for best root growth. Water deeply when the soil is halfway dry. Watch for pests such as mealybugs and scale. Combat these with alcohol wipes. Occasionally, the plant will shed old leaves. When leaves turn brown, prune them off if you are impatient for the palm to shed the dead foliage on its own. Like all plants, palms, especially those in containers, need supplemental nutrients. A spindle palm indoors will have to rely on its potting soil to provide some of these nutrients. Repot the plant every two years when the soil is depleted and roots become bound.
Spindle palms are prone to potassium deficiency. Use a palm food with both magnesium and potassium. Fertilize every 2 to 3 months during the plant’s active growing period. Suspend feeding in winter. Water the plant food in well to prevent salt buildup in the soil. Indoor care for spindle palms is very straightforward and they are not terribly fussy trees. Enjoy the statuesque palm in almost any indoor setting and bring it outdoors in summer for a little fresh air and sunshine.
Spindle Palm Houseplant
Spindle palm trees are fairly common indoor plants. The tree is endemic to the Mascarene Islands near Madagascar where it thrives in dry, sandy soil. It is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zone 11, but it makes an excellent indoor tree and its growth is slow enough to make it perfect for a container. There are a few things to know about growing spindle palm inside, most importantly is the amount of water this pretty palm should receive.
In their native environment, spindle palms reach 20 to 25 feet in height and can grow 6- to 10-foot-long fronds. The leaves are made up of numerous leaflets, lending the plant a lacy foliage appearance. Notably, this palm has a spindle shaped stem that widens slightly above the base and then constricts near the crown. The effect is unique and appealing, also decorated with a ringed pattern along the trunk. When planted in a container, the tree will grow slowly and remain relatively short in stature. Indoor trees usually attain a height of 6 feet at maturity. Palm tree houseplants are useful in bright light situations, such as a foyer or brightly lit dining room. Try using a spindle palm houseplant in a sunroom for a tropical feel.
Indoor Care for Spindle Palms
One of the best things about the spindle palm houseplant is its easy maintenance. The plant does best in full sun but can tolerate lower lighting. The temperature range for this plant is 35 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 26 C.). A spindle palm indoors requires consistent moisture but a well-draining planting medium to prevent sogginess. The addition of a little gritty material, such as sand, will enhance drainage and provide loose soil for best root growth. Water deeply when the soil is halfway dry. Watch for pests such as mealybugs and scale. Combat these with alcohol wipes. Occasionally, the plant will shed old leaves. When leaves turn brown, prune them off if you are impatient for the palm to shed the dead foliage on its own. Like all plants, palms, especially those in containers, need supplemental nutrients. A spindle palm indoors will have to rely on its potting soil to provide some of these nutrients. Repot the plant every two years when the soil is depleted and roots become bound.
Spindle palms are prone to potassium deficiency. Use a palm food with both magnesium and potassium. Fertilize every 2 to 3 months during the plant’s active growing period. Suspend feeding in winter. Water the plant food in well to prevent salt buildup in the soil. Indoor care for spindle palms is very straightforward and they are not terribly fussy trees. Enjoy the statuesque palm in almost any indoor setting and bring it outdoors in summer for a little fresh air and sunshine.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
If you’re looking to increase your collection of houseplants without spending any money, propagating spiderettes, (spider plant babies), from an existing plant is as easy as it gets. Even kids or brand new gardeners can easily learn how to root spider plantlets. Read on to learn more about propagating your spider plants.
Spider Plant Propagation
When you’re ready to propagate your spider plant babies, you have the option of rooting the plantlets by growing directly in soil or you can choose to root them in water.
Growing Plantlets from Spider Plants
There are a couple of ways to plant spider plant babies, and they’re both easy peasy. Look closely at the spiderettes dangling from your adult plant and you’ll see little knob-like protrusions and tiny roots on the bottom of each spiderette. Spider plant propagation simply involves planting the spiderette in a pot filled with any lightweight potting mix. Be sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom. You can leave the baby attached to the parent plant until the new plant takes root, then separate it from the parent by snipping the runner. Alternatively, go ahead and separate the baby from the parent plant by snipping the runner immediately. Spiderettes will root easily either way, but if you have a hanging spider plant, the latter is the best way to go.
How to Root Spider Plantlets in Water
Planting spiderettes in potting soil is the easiest and quickest way to propagate spider plant babies. However, if you like, you can stick the spiderette in a glass of water for a week or two, then plant the rooted spiderette in a pot of soil. This is an unnecessary step, but some people enjoy rooting a new plant the old-fashioned way – in a jar on the kitchen windowsill.
Caring for Spider Plant Babies
If you want a thick, bushy plant, start several spider plant babies in the same pot. Similarly, if your adult spider plant isn’t as full as you would like, plant a couple of spiderettes alongside the mama plant. Water the fledgling spider babies as needed to keep the soil slightly moist, but never saturated, until healthy new growth indicates the plant has rooted. Your new spider plant is well on its way, and you can resume normal care.
Spider Plant Propagation
When you’re ready to propagate your spider plant babies, you have the option of rooting the plantlets by growing directly in soil or you can choose to root them in water.
Growing Plantlets from Spider Plants
There are a couple of ways to plant spider plant babies, and they’re both easy peasy. Look closely at the spiderettes dangling from your adult plant and you’ll see little knob-like protrusions and tiny roots on the bottom of each spiderette. Spider plant propagation simply involves planting the spiderette in a pot filled with any lightweight potting mix. Be sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom. You can leave the baby attached to the parent plant until the new plant takes root, then separate it from the parent by snipping the runner. Alternatively, go ahead and separate the baby from the parent plant by snipping the runner immediately. Spiderettes will root easily either way, but if you have a hanging spider plant, the latter is the best way to go.
How to Root Spider Plantlets in Water
Planting spiderettes in potting soil is the easiest and quickest way to propagate spider plant babies. However, if you like, you can stick the spiderette in a glass of water for a week or two, then plant the rooted spiderette in a pot of soil. This is an unnecessary step, but some people enjoy rooting a new plant the old-fashioned way – in a jar on the kitchen windowsill.
Caring for Spider Plant Babies
If you want a thick, bushy plant, start several spider plant babies in the same pot. Similarly, if your adult spider plant isn’t as full as you would like, plant a couple of spiderettes alongside the mama plant. Water the fledgling spider babies as needed to keep the soil slightly moist, but never saturated, until healthy new growth indicates the plant has rooted. Your new spider plant is well on its way, and you can resume normal care.
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Michele Ondra：Thanks! I’ve been wondering how to do this.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Most people are familiar with spider plants as houseplants because they are so tolerant and easy to grow. They tolerate low light, infrequent watering and help clean indoor air, making them very popular. They also propagate easily from the little plantlets (spiders) that grow from their flower stalks. One small spider plant can very quickly lead to many more. You may have wondered at one time or another, “can spider plants be outdoors?” Well, in the right conditions, growing spider plants outdoors is possible. Read more to learn how to grow a spider plant outside.
How to Grow a Spider Plant Outside
The easiest way to grow spider plants outside is just to move your potted spider plant outdoors when weather permits and indoors when it is too cold. Spider plants make excellent plants for hanging baskets, with small white, star-shaped flowers arching down on long flower stalks. After flowering, grass-like new little plantlets form on these flower stalks.
These little spider-like hanging plantlets are why Chlorophytum comosun is commonly called spider plant. The plantlets are like the runners on strawberry plants and will root wherever they touch soil, creating new spider plants. To propagate, simply snip the “spiders” off and stick them in soil. Native to South Africa, spider plants need a warm, tropical climate to survive outside. They can be grown like a perennial in zones 9-11 and as an annual in cooler climates. Spider plants outside cannot tolerate any frost. If planting them as annuals in cooler climates, be sure to wait until there’s no danger of frost. Spider plants prefer filtered sunlight, but can grow in part-shade to shade. They tend to get sunburnt in full sun or afternoon sun. Spider plants outside make excellent spreading groundcovers and border plants around trees. In zones 10-11, it can grow and spread aggressively. Spider plants have thick rhizomes that store water, making them tolerate some drought. Spider plants can also make excellent trailing plants for large container arrangements.
Care of Spider Plants Outdoors
Growing spider plants outdoors can be as easy as growing them inside. Start them early indoors, giving the roots time to develop. Spider plants need well-draining, slightly acidic soil. They prefer dappled shade and cannot handle direct afternoon sun. When young, they need moist soil. Spider plants are sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine in city water, so they perform best with rain water or distilled water. They also don’t like too much fertilizer, use a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer only once a month or bi-monthly.
Spider plants outside are especially susceptible to aphids, scale, whiteflies and spider mites. Use an insecticidal soap, especially if they are being brought inside for the winter. I use a homemade dish soap dip, made from ¼ cup Dawn dish soap, ½ cup mouth wash and a gallon of water. If growing spider plants outdoors as an annual, you can dig them up and over winter them in pots inside. If you have too many, give them away to friends. I have planted them in Halloween cups and handed them out at Halloween parties, telling kids they can grow their own creepy spider plants.
How to Grow a Spider Plant Outside
The easiest way to grow spider plants outside is just to move your potted spider plant outdoors when weather permits and indoors when it is too cold. Spider plants make excellent plants for hanging baskets, with small white, star-shaped flowers arching down on long flower stalks. After flowering, grass-like new little plantlets form on these flower stalks.
These little spider-like hanging plantlets are why Chlorophytum comosun is commonly called spider plant. The plantlets are like the runners on strawberry plants and will root wherever they touch soil, creating new spider plants. To propagate, simply snip the “spiders” off and stick them in soil. Native to South Africa, spider plants need a warm, tropical climate to survive outside. They can be grown like a perennial in zones 9-11 and as an annual in cooler climates. Spider plants outside cannot tolerate any frost. If planting them as annuals in cooler climates, be sure to wait until there’s no danger of frost. Spider plants prefer filtered sunlight, but can grow in part-shade to shade. They tend to get sunburnt in full sun or afternoon sun. Spider plants outside make excellent spreading groundcovers and border plants around trees. In zones 10-11, it can grow and spread aggressively. Spider plants have thick rhizomes that store water, making them tolerate some drought. Spider plants can also make excellent trailing plants for large container arrangements.
Care of Spider Plants Outdoors
Growing spider plants outdoors can be as easy as growing them inside. Start them early indoors, giving the roots time to develop. Spider plants need well-draining, slightly acidic soil. They prefer dappled shade and cannot handle direct afternoon sun. When young, they need moist soil. Spider plants are sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine in city water, so they perform best with rain water or distilled water. They also don’t like too much fertilizer, use a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer only once a month or bi-monthly.
Spider plants outside are especially susceptible to aphids, scale, whiteflies and spider mites. Use an insecticidal soap, especially if they are being brought inside for the winter. I use a homemade dish soap dip, made from ¼ cup Dawn dish soap, ½ cup mouth wash and a gallon of water. If growing spider plants outdoors as an annual, you can dig them up and over winter them in pots inside. If you have too many, give them away to friends. I have planted them in Halloween cups and handed them out at Halloween parties, telling kids they can grow their own creepy spider plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Chlorophytum comosum may be lurking in your house. What is Chlorophytum comosum? Only one of the most popular houseplants. You may recognize its common name of spider plant, AKA airplane plant, St. Bernard’s lily, spider ivy or ribbon plant. Spider plants are one of the most popular houseplants because they are so resilient and easy to grow but do spider plants need fertilizer? If so, what type of fertilizer is best for spider plants and how do you fertilize spider plants?
Spider Plant Fertilizer
Spider plants are hardy plants that thrive in less than optimal conditions. Plants form tight rosettes of leaves with dangling plantlets hanging from long stems of up to 3 feet. While they prefer bright light, they tend to scorch in direct sunlight and are perfect for lower lit abodes and offices. They do not like temperature below 50 degrees F. (10 C.) or cold drafts.
To care for your spider plant, be sure it is planted in well-draining, well-aerating potting medium. Water throughout the growing season on a regular basis and mist the plant occasionally, as they enjoy the humidity. If your water is from city sources, it is most likely chlorinated and probably fluoridated as well. Both of these chemicals can result in tip burn. Allow tap water to sit at room temperature for at least 24 hours or use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate spider plants. Spider plants are native to South Africa and are prolific growers and producers of a multitude of plantlets. The plantlets are basically a spider plant baby and can be easily snipped from the parent and rooted in water or damp potting soil to become yet another spider plant. All that aside, do spider plants need fertilizer as well?
How to Fertilize Spider Plants
Fertilizing a spider plant must be done in moderation. Fertilizer for spider plants should be applied sparingly, as over-fertilization will result in brown leaf tips just as chemically laden water. There is no specific spider plant fertilizer. Any all-purpose, complete, water soluble or granular time-release fertilizer suitable for houseplants is acceptable. There is some discrepancy in the number of times you should feed your spider plant during the growing season. Some sources say once a week, while others says every 2-4 weeks. The common trend seems to be that over-fertilizing will cause more damage than under feeding. I would go for a happy medium of every 2 weeks with a liquid fertilizer.
If the tips of the spider plant begin to brown, I would back off the amount of fertilizer by ½ of the manufacturer’s recommended amount. Remember that brown tips may also be caused by chemical laden water, drought stress, drafts, or temperature fluxes. A little experimentation might be in order to get your plant back in tip-top shape, but these plants are known for rebounding and will almost certainly be in the flush of health with a little TLC.
Spider Plant Fertilizer
Spider plants are hardy plants that thrive in less than optimal conditions. Plants form tight rosettes of leaves with dangling plantlets hanging from long stems of up to 3 feet. While they prefer bright light, they tend to scorch in direct sunlight and are perfect for lower lit abodes and offices. They do not like temperature below 50 degrees F. (10 C.) or cold drafts.
To care for your spider plant, be sure it is planted in well-draining, well-aerating potting medium. Water throughout the growing season on a regular basis and mist the plant occasionally, as they enjoy the humidity. If your water is from city sources, it is most likely chlorinated and probably fluoridated as well. Both of these chemicals can result in tip burn. Allow tap water to sit at room temperature for at least 24 hours or use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate spider plants. Spider plants are native to South Africa and are prolific growers and producers of a multitude of plantlets. The plantlets are basically a spider plant baby and can be easily snipped from the parent and rooted in water or damp potting soil to become yet another spider plant. All that aside, do spider plants need fertilizer as well?
How to Fertilize Spider Plants
Fertilizing a spider plant must be done in moderation. Fertilizer for spider plants should be applied sparingly, as over-fertilization will result in brown leaf tips just as chemically laden water. There is no specific spider plant fertilizer. Any all-purpose, complete, water soluble or granular time-release fertilizer suitable for houseplants is acceptable. There is some discrepancy in the number of times you should feed your spider plant during the growing season. Some sources say once a week, while others says every 2-4 weeks. The common trend seems to be that over-fertilizing will cause more damage than under feeding. I would go for a happy medium of every 2 weeks with a liquid fertilizer.
If the tips of the spider plant begin to brown, I would back off the amount of fertilizer by ½ of the manufacturer’s recommended amount. Remember that brown tips may also be caused by chemical laden water, drought stress, drafts, or temperature fluxes. A little experimentation might be in order to get your plant back in tip-top shape, but these plants are known for rebounding and will almost certainly be in the flush of health with a little TLC.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants are very popular houseplants, and for good reason. They have a very unique look, with small little plantlets dangling on the ends of long stalks like spiders. They’re also extremely forgiving and easy to take care of – they don’t require much at all in the way of special care. Sometimes, however, you may encounter spider plant problems. Wilting spider plants are not uncommon, though they’re usually easy to cure. Keep reading to learn more about what to do when your spider plant looks wilted.
Why a Spider Plant Looks Wilted
So if you’re asking. “Why is my spider plant wilting,” you’ll need to do a bit of troubleshooting. When spider plant leaves look droopy, it can mean one of several things.
Water – One obvious problem is improper watering. Spider plants need a good amount of watering during the summer – the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Overwatering can also cause problems, however, with wilting and yellowing plants. Don’t let the soil get soggy in the summer, and in the winter let it dry out between light waterings. Light – The wrong amount of light or heat can also result in wilting spider plants. Spider plants do best in bright but indirect sunlight, like in a south-facing window or a space outside that receives less than 6 hours of sunlight. Overheating, a problem that often comes with too much sun, can also cause wilting spider plants.
If your spider plant has been drooping in bright direct sunlight, give it a good soak in a bucket of water for 15 minutes, then move it to a shadier, cooler spot. Of course, spider plants do need some sunlight. If your plant is wilting in full shade or far from a window indoors, move it to a sunnier spot and see if it perks up. Fertilizer – If your spider plant leaves look droopy, it may also be a problem with soil quality. You should feed your spider plant with a balanced fertilizer every other week in the summer and less frequently in winter.
Repotting – If your spider plant looks wilted and you can see roots coming out of the drainage holes, your plant is outgrowing its pot. Transplant it to a bigger pot, and water and feed it well. Spider plants can be a little fussy about water and light requirements, but they’re also very durable. If you notice your plant wilting and act to fix it, it should bounce back with no problem.
Why a Spider Plant Looks Wilted
So if you’re asking. “Why is my spider plant wilting,” you’ll need to do a bit of troubleshooting. When spider plant leaves look droopy, it can mean one of several things.
Water – One obvious problem is improper watering. Spider plants need a good amount of watering during the summer – the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Overwatering can also cause problems, however, with wilting and yellowing plants. Don’t let the soil get soggy in the summer, and in the winter let it dry out between light waterings. Light – The wrong amount of light or heat can also result in wilting spider plants. Spider plants do best in bright but indirect sunlight, like in a south-facing window or a space outside that receives less than 6 hours of sunlight. Overheating, a problem that often comes with too much sun, can also cause wilting spider plants.
If your spider plant has been drooping in bright direct sunlight, give it a good soak in a bucket of water for 15 minutes, then move it to a shadier, cooler spot. Of course, spider plants do need some sunlight. If your plant is wilting in full shade or far from a window indoors, move it to a sunnier spot and see if it perks up. Fertilizer – If your spider plant leaves look droopy, it may also be a problem with soil quality. You should feed your spider plant with a balanced fertilizer every other week in the summer and less frequently in winter.
Repotting – If your spider plant looks wilted and you can see roots coming out of the drainage holes, your plant is outgrowing its pot. Transplant it to a bigger pot, and water and feed it well. Spider plants can be a little fussy about water and light requirements, but they’re also very durable. If you notice your plant wilting and act to fix it, it should bounce back with no problem.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants are very popular and easy to grow houseplants. They’re known best for their spiderettes, little miniature versions of themselves that sprout from long stalks and hang down just like spiders on silk. The interesting spiderettes often overshadow the fact that spider plants bloom, producing delicate white flowers along these stalks. When pollinated, these flowers make seeds that can be harvested and grown into new plants. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow a spider plant from seed.
Harvesting Spider Plant Seeds
Do spider plants have seeds? Yes. Your spider plant should bloom naturally, but it will need to be pollinated in order to produce seeds. You can do this yourself by gently brushing a cotton swab against one flower after the other, or you can simply put your plant outside to allow insects to pollinate it naturally. After the flowers have faded, you should see bumpy green seed pods appear in their place. Harvesting spider plant seeds is easy, and mostly involves waiting. Allow the seed pods to dry on the stalk. Once they’re dry, they should split open naturally and drop their seeds. You can place a piece of paper under the plant to collect the seeds when they fall, or you can break the dry pods off by hand and put them in a paper bag, where they should split open.
How to Grow a Spider Plant from Seed
When growing a spider plant from seed, you should plant the seeds right away, as they don’t store well. Sow the seeds about ½ inch deep in good potting mix and keep them warm and moist. Spider plant seed germination usually takes a couple of weeks, so be patient. Allow your seedlings to grow many true leaves before transplanting them – growing spider plants from seed produces delicate seedlings that don’t like to be moved too soon.
Harvesting Spider Plant Seeds
Do spider plants have seeds? Yes. Your spider plant should bloom naturally, but it will need to be pollinated in order to produce seeds. You can do this yourself by gently brushing a cotton swab against one flower after the other, or you can simply put your plant outside to allow insects to pollinate it naturally. After the flowers have faded, you should see bumpy green seed pods appear in their place. Harvesting spider plant seeds is easy, and mostly involves waiting. Allow the seed pods to dry on the stalk. Once they’re dry, they should split open naturally and drop their seeds. You can place a piece of paper under the plant to collect the seeds when they fall, or you can break the dry pods off by hand and put them in a paper bag, where they should split open.
How to Grow a Spider Plant from Seed
When growing a spider plant from seed, you should plant the seeds right away, as they don’t store well. Sow the seeds about ½ inch deep in good potting mix and keep them warm and moist. Spider plant seed germination usually takes a couple of weeks, so be patient. Allow your seedlings to grow many true leaves before transplanting them – growing spider plants from seed produces delicate seedlings that don’t like to be moved too soon.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) are very popular houseplants. They are great for beginners since they are tolerant and very difficult to kill. After you’ve had your plant for a few years, you may find that it has grown very large and isn’t doing well. If that happens, it’s time to start dividing spider plants. Can you split a spider plant? Yes, you can. Read on for information about when and how to divide a spider plant.
Spider Plant Division
Spider plants have tubular roots that grow rapidly. That’s why spider plants outgrow their pots so quickly—the roots just need more room to grow. If you’ve moved your spider into new, bigger pots several times, it should be thriving. If it is struggling, it may be time to think about spider plant division.
If you want to know when to split a spider plant, dividing spider plants is appropriate when the roots are crowded. Tightly packed roots may kill off some central root sections. When this happens, the plant’s leaves may die and brown even though you haven’t moved it or changed its care.
That’s because some of the roots are not able to do their job. Dividing spider plants pushes the plant’s “restart” button and gives it a new chance to grow happily.
How to Divide a Spider Plant
If you want to know how to divide a spider plant, it isn’t very difficult if you have an overview of the procedure.
When you are dividing spider plants, you’ll need a sharp garden knife, additional containers with good drain holes and potting soil. The idea is to slice off and throw away the damaged roots, then divide the healthy roots into several pieces.
Remove the plant from its pot and take a look at the roots. You may need to wash soil from the roots with the hose in order to see them well. Identify the damaged roots and cut them off. Decide how many plants can be started from the remaining roots. After that, cut the roots into several sections, one for each new plant.
Repot each section of the plant into its own pot. Plant each one in well-draining potting soil, then water each pot well.
Spider Plant Division
Spider plants have tubular roots that grow rapidly. That’s why spider plants outgrow their pots so quickly—the roots just need more room to grow. If you’ve moved your spider into new, bigger pots several times, it should be thriving. If it is struggling, it may be time to think about spider plant division.
If you want to know when to split a spider plant, dividing spider plants is appropriate when the roots are crowded. Tightly packed roots may kill off some central root sections. When this happens, the plant’s leaves may die and brown even though you haven’t moved it or changed its care.
That’s because some of the roots are not able to do their job. Dividing spider plants pushes the plant’s “restart” button and gives it a new chance to grow happily.
How to Divide a Spider Plant
If you want to know how to divide a spider plant, it isn’t very difficult if you have an overview of the procedure.
When you are dividing spider plants, you’ll need a sharp garden knife, additional containers with good drain holes and potting soil. The idea is to slice off and throw away the damaged roots, then divide the healthy roots into several pieces.
Remove the plant from its pot and take a look at the roots. You may need to wash soil from the roots with the hose in order to see them well. Identify the damaged roots and cut them off. Decide how many plants can be started from the remaining roots. After that, cut the roots into several sections, one for each new plant.
Repot each section of the plant into its own pot. Plant each one in well-draining potting soil, then water each pot well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) are popular houseplants. Flexible about the level of care they receive and tolerant of abuse, they are perfect for gardening beginners. When should you repot a spider plant? These plants grow fast and the tuberous roots can crack open a flower pot. It’s important to start spider plant repotting before this happens. Read on for information on moving spider plants to larger pots.
Spider Plant Repotting
Repotting spider plants simply means moving spider plants to larger pots. It is often necessary to repot houseplants as they outgrow their pots, and spider plants tend to grow faster than most. Spider plants are native to the coastal areas of South America. The plant’s tuberous roots allows the species to thrive despite varying levels of precipitation in the wild. These same water-storing tuberous roots assist your spider houseplant to survive when you forget to water it for a few weeks. The roots grow fast, however. At some point before the roots crack open the pot, it’s time to think about spider plant repotting.
When Should You Repot a Spider Plant?
Spider plants grow best when they are slightly pot bound. However, the plants, roots included, grow fast. You’ll want to think about repotting spider plants before the plants crack their pots. Plants get different cultural care, so their growth rates vary. You just have to keep an eye on your spider plant. When you see roots showing above the soil, it is time to start moving spider plants to larger pots.
How Do You Repot a Spider Plant?
How do you repot a spider plant? Repotting a spider plant is fairly easy. You gently remove the plant from its current pot, rinse and trim its roots, then replant it in a larger pot. When you are moving spider plants to larger pots, make sure the new pots have good drainage holes. Spider plants don’t tolerate wet soil for very long. Use a general-purpose potting soil or soilless medium for spider plant repotting. Fill the bottom of the pot with soil, then place the plant’s roots in the soil. Keep adding soil and tucking it around the roots until all the roots are covered. Water the plant well and care as usual.
Spider Plant Repotting
Repotting spider plants simply means moving spider plants to larger pots. It is often necessary to repot houseplants as they outgrow their pots, and spider plants tend to grow faster than most. Spider plants are native to the coastal areas of South America. The plant’s tuberous roots allows the species to thrive despite varying levels of precipitation in the wild. These same water-storing tuberous roots assist your spider houseplant to survive when you forget to water it for a few weeks. The roots grow fast, however. At some point before the roots crack open the pot, it’s time to think about spider plant repotting.
When Should You Repot a Spider Plant?
Spider plants grow best when they are slightly pot bound. However, the plants, roots included, grow fast. You’ll want to think about repotting spider plants before the plants crack their pots. Plants get different cultural care, so their growth rates vary. You just have to keep an eye on your spider plant. When you see roots showing above the soil, it is time to start moving spider plants to larger pots.
How Do You Repot a Spider Plant?
How do you repot a spider plant? Repotting a spider plant is fairly easy. You gently remove the plant from its current pot, rinse and trim its roots, then replant it in a larger pot. When you are moving spider plants to larger pots, make sure the new pots have good drainage holes. Spider plants don’t tolerate wet soil for very long. Use a general-purpose potting soil or soilless medium for spider plant repotting. Fill the bottom of the pot with soil, then place the plant’s roots in the soil. Keep adding soil and tucking it around the roots until all the roots are covered. Water the plant well and care as usual.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Spider plants are very popular houseplants, and for good reason. They’re very hardy, growing best in indirect light with soil that’s allowed to dry out between waterings. In other words, they work well indoors with only moderate watering. And in exchange for little maintenance, they produce long green fronds and small plantlets or “babies,” little versions of themselves that hang down like spiders on silk. Because they require so little care and have such an interesting look, spider plant problems can be a real blow. Keep reading to learn more about caring for sick spider plants.
How to Treat Diseases of Spider Plant
Caring for sick spider plants shouldn’t be too difficult once you know what to look for. There really aren’t many common spider plant diseases. It is possible for them to suffer from fungal leaf rot and fungal root rot. Root rot can usually be traced to too much watering and/or soil that doesn’t drain freely enough.
In fact, most spider plant problems can be traced to environmental issues rather than disease. You may notice the tips of your spider plant’s leaves browning and drying. This is called leaf tip burn, and it is most likely caused by too much fertilizer or too little water. It may also be due to water that has too many minerals or salts in it. Try switching to bottled water and see if you notice a change.
When caring for sick spider plants, the best course of action is usually repotting. If the source of your problem is soil that is too dense or a root bound plant, this should help to clear things up. If your plant does happen to be suffering from a pathogen or bacteria in the soil, repotting it (with new, clean, sterile potting medium) should do the trick.
How to Treat Diseases of Spider Plant
Caring for sick spider plants shouldn’t be too difficult once you know what to look for. There really aren’t many common spider plant diseases. It is possible for them to suffer from fungal leaf rot and fungal root rot. Root rot can usually be traced to too much watering and/or soil that doesn’t drain freely enough.
In fact, most spider plant problems can be traced to environmental issues rather than disease. You may notice the tips of your spider plant’s leaves browning and drying. This is called leaf tip burn, and it is most likely caused by too much fertilizer or too little water. It may also be due to water that has too many minerals or salts in it. Try switching to bottled water and see if you notice a change.
When caring for sick spider plants, the best course of action is usually repotting. If the source of your problem is soil that is too dense or a root bound plant, this should help to clear things up. If your plant does happen to be suffering from a pathogen or bacteria in the soil, repotting it (with new, clean, sterile potting medium) should do the trick.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is considered one of the most adaptable of houseplants and the easiest to grow. This plant can grow in a wide range of conditions and suffers from few problems, other than brown tips. The spider plant is so named because of its spider-like plants, or spiderettes, which dangle down from the mother plant like spiders on a web. Available in green or variegated varieties, these spiderettes often start out as small white flowers.
Gardening Tips for Spider Plants and General Spider Plant Care
Caring for spider plants is easy. These tough plants tolerate lots of abuse, making them excellent candidates for newbie gardeners or those without a green thumb. Provide them with well-drained soil and bright, indirect light and they will flourish. Water them well but do not allow the plants to become too soggy, which can lead to root rot. In fact, spider plants prefer to dry out some between waterings.
When caring for spider plants, also take into account that they enjoy cooler temperatures — around 55 to 65 F. (13-18 C.). Spider plants can also benefit from occasional pruning, cutting them back to the base. Since spider plants prefer a semi-potbound environment, repot them only when their large, fleshy roots are highly visible and watering is difficult. Spider plants can be easily propagated as well through division of the mother plant or by planting the small spiderettes.
Spider Plant Spiderettes
As daylight increases in spring, spider plants should begin producing flowers, eventually developing into babies, or spider plant spiderettes. This may not always occur, however, as only mature plants with enough stored energy will produce spiderettes. Spiderettes can be rooted in water or soil, but will generally yield more favorable results and a stronger root system when planted in soil. Ideally, the best method for rooting spider plant spiderettes is by allowing the plantlet to remain attached to the mother plant. Choose a spiderette and place it in a pot of soil near the mother plant. Keep this well watered and once it roots, you can cut it from the mother plant. Alternatively, you can cut off one of the plantlets, place it in a pot of soil, and water generously. Place the pot in a ventilated plastic bag and put this in a bright location. Once the spiderette is well rooted, remove from the bag and grow as usual.
Spider Plant Leaves Browning
If you begin to notice spider plant leaves browning, there’s no need for worry. Browning of leaf tips is quite normal and will not harm the plant. This is often the result of fluoride found in water, which causes salt buildup in the soil. It usually helps to periodically leach plants by giving them a thorough watering to flush out excess salts. Be sure to allow the water to drain out and repeat as needed. It may also help to use distilled water or even rainwater on plants instead of that from the kitchen or outside spigot.
Gardening Tips for Spider Plants and General Spider Plant Care
Caring for spider plants is easy. These tough plants tolerate lots of abuse, making them excellent candidates for newbie gardeners or those without a green thumb. Provide them with well-drained soil and bright, indirect light and they will flourish. Water them well but do not allow the plants to become too soggy, which can lead to root rot. In fact, spider plants prefer to dry out some between waterings.
When caring for spider plants, also take into account that they enjoy cooler temperatures — around 55 to 65 F. (13-18 C.). Spider plants can also benefit from occasional pruning, cutting them back to the base. Since spider plants prefer a semi-potbound environment, repot them only when their large, fleshy roots are highly visible and watering is difficult. Spider plants can be easily propagated as well through division of the mother plant or by planting the small spiderettes.
Spider Plant Spiderettes
As daylight increases in spring, spider plants should begin producing flowers, eventually developing into babies, or spider plant spiderettes. This may not always occur, however, as only mature plants with enough stored energy will produce spiderettes. Spiderettes can be rooted in water or soil, but will generally yield more favorable results and a stronger root system when planted in soil. Ideally, the best method for rooting spider plant spiderettes is by allowing the plantlet to remain attached to the mother plant. Choose a spiderette and place it in a pot of soil near the mother plant. Keep this well watered and once it roots, you can cut it from the mother plant. Alternatively, you can cut off one of the plantlets, place it in a pot of soil, and water generously. Place the pot in a ventilated plastic bag and put this in a bright location. Once the spiderette is well rooted, remove from the bag and grow as usual.
Spider Plant Leaves Browning
If you begin to notice spider plant leaves browning, there’s no need for worry. Browning of leaf tips is quite normal and will not harm the plant. This is often the result of fluoride found in water, which causes salt buildup in the soil. It usually helps to periodically leach plants by giving them a thorough watering to flush out excess salts. Be sure to allow the water to drain out and repeat as needed. It may also help to use distilled water or even rainwater on plants instead of that from the kitchen or outside spigot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If you’re decorating for a St. Patrick’s Day party, you’ll want to include a potted shamrock plant or several shamrock houseplants. But party or not, the potted shamrock plant is an attractive indoor plant. So what is a shamrock plant? Keep reading to find out more about growing and caring for shamrock plants.
What is a Shamrock Plant?
The potted shamrock plant (Oxalis regnellii) is a small specimen, often reaching no more than 6 inches. Leaves are in a range of shades and delicate flowers bloom off and on during fall, winter and spring. Leaves are clover shaped and some think the plant brings good luck. These leaves fold up at night and open when light returns. Also known as the lucky shamrock plant, growing Oxalis houseplant is simple and adds a touch of spring to the indoors during winter months.
Shamrock houseplants are members of the wood sorrel family of the genus Oxalis. Caring for shamrock plants is simple when you understand their periods of dormancy. Unlike most houseplants, the potted shamrock plant goes dormant in summer.
When leaves die back, the potted shamrock plant needs a time of darkness to rest. Caring for shamrock plants during the period of dormancy includes limited watering and withholding of fertilizer. The dormant period when growing oxalis houseplant lasts anywhere from a few weeks to three months, depending on the cultivar and the conditions. New shoots appear when dormancy is broken. At this time, move shamrock houseplants to a sunny window or other area of bright light. Resume caring for shamrock plants to be rewarded with an abundance of the attractive foliage and blooms.
Growing Oxalis Houseplant
When shoots appear in autumn, begin watering the newly growing Oxalis houseplant. Soil should remain lightly moist during times of growth. Water two to three times a month, allowing soil to dry out between waterings. Fertilize after watering with a balanced houseplant food. Shamrock plants grow from tiny bulbs that may be planted in fall or early spring. Most often, shamrock plants are purchased when foliage is growing and sometimes when in flower. Many cultivars of oxalis exist, but exotic varieties provide the best indoor performance. However, don’t dig a wild wood sorrel from outdoors and expect it to grow as a houseplant. Now that you’ve learned what is a shamrock plant and how to care for a growing Oxalis houseplant, include one in your indoor collection for winter blooms and maybe good luck.
What is a Shamrock Plant?
The potted shamrock plant (Oxalis regnellii) is a small specimen, often reaching no more than 6 inches. Leaves are in a range of shades and delicate flowers bloom off and on during fall, winter and spring. Leaves are clover shaped and some think the plant brings good luck. These leaves fold up at night and open when light returns. Also known as the lucky shamrock plant, growing Oxalis houseplant is simple and adds a touch of spring to the indoors during winter months.
Shamrock houseplants are members of the wood sorrel family of the genus Oxalis. Caring for shamrock plants is simple when you understand their periods of dormancy. Unlike most houseplants, the potted shamrock plant goes dormant in summer.
When leaves die back, the potted shamrock plant needs a time of darkness to rest. Caring for shamrock plants during the period of dormancy includes limited watering and withholding of fertilizer. The dormant period when growing oxalis houseplant lasts anywhere from a few weeks to three months, depending on the cultivar and the conditions. New shoots appear when dormancy is broken. At this time, move shamrock houseplants to a sunny window or other area of bright light. Resume caring for shamrock plants to be rewarded with an abundance of the attractive foliage and blooms.
Growing Oxalis Houseplant
When shoots appear in autumn, begin watering the newly growing Oxalis houseplant. Soil should remain lightly moist during times of growth. Water two to three times a month, allowing soil to dry out between waterings. Fertilize after watering with a balanced houseplant food. Shamrock plants grow from tiny bulbs that may be planted in fall or early spring. Most often, shamrock plants are purchased when foliage is growing and sometimes when in flower. Many cultivars of oxalis exist, but exotic varieties provide the best indoor performance. However, don’t dig a wild wood sorrel from outdoors and expect it to grow as a houseplant. Now that you’ve learned what is a shamrock plant and how to care for a growing Oxalis houseplant, include one in your indoor collection for winter blooms and maybe good luck.
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