文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月01日
Corn plants (Dracaena deremensis) are quite popular as houseplants thanks to their attractive foliage and hardy nature. They’re easy to grow in containers or in the garden in the right climate. These plants can grow quite tall in the wild, but they stay at a manageable size when kept indoors. They feature rosettes of sword-shaped green leaves that can grow to around 2 feet long. Tiny yellow flowers will bloom periodically, but flowers on indoor plants are rather rare. Spring is the best time for planting, though you can typically pot a nursery plant indoors at any time of year. These plants are fairly slow growers and will naturally lose their lower leaves over time while they send up new ones on top.
Botanical Name Dracaena deremensis
Common Names Corn plant, dracaena, striped dracaena
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 15–50 ft. tall, 3–10 ft. wide (outdoors), 4–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Corn Plant Care
Overall, caring for Dracaena deremensis is simple, and even beginner gardeners should have success. Regular watering will be your main task for these low-maintenance plants, along with feeding for half of the year.
Corn plants generally don’t have many problems with pests or diseases. You also won’t have to do much in the way of pruning, though you can prune off any foliage that becomes discolored or damaged for aesthetic purposes. You also can prune off the top of your plant if it becomes too tall for your preference. This will encourage bushier growth. If you’re growing your plant in a container, make sure the pot has ample drainage holes. Once the roots have grown to fill the space of the pot, replant your corn plant into the next pot size up using fresh potting mix.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like filtered sunlight. Direct sun, especially hot afternoon sun, can burn the leaves and cause the plant to wilt. Indoors, place your plant near a window where it can get bright, indirect light. While these plants can tolerate somewhat shady conditions, too little light can cause the leaves to lose their bright colors and not grow in size to their fullest potential.
Soil
An organically rich, loose soil is ideal for corn plants. The soil must have good drainage, as the roots are prone to rotting in soggy soil. A quality commercial potting mix is generally fine for container plants.
Water
Water regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall) to keep the soil evenly moist. In the winter you can back off on watering a little bit. But don’t ever allow the soil to dry out completely. If you stick your finger in the soil and feel it’s dry, then it’s time to water. Brown and dry leaf tips are a telltale sign that you’ve allowed the soil to dry out too much. It’s best to use non-fluorinated water, such as distilled water or rainwater, on corn plants because they’re sensitive to fluoride. Too much can cause the leaves to turn yellow or brown.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical plants like a warm, humid climate. They grow best in temperatures that are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t allow your plant to have prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, as this can damage or kill it. Humidity above 40% is ideal. Air that’s too dry can cause brown, dry leaf tips. If you notice this, you can occasionally mist the plant to raise humidity or put a potted plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water, making sure the bottom of the pot isn’t touching the water (as this can rot the roots).
Fertilizer
These plants aren't heavy feeders. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer, following label instructions. No fertilization is necessary in the fall and winter.
Corn Plant Varieties
Here are some popular varieties within this species:
Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’: This plant features stiff leaves with green and white stripes.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’: This plant has solid dark green leaves and also comes in a compact variety (‘Janet Craig Compacta’) whose leaves are only up to 8 inches long.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Lemon Lime’: Leaves that are a mix of cream, yellow-green, and lime green stripes are indicative of this variety.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Limelight’: Leaves start out yellow-green but then mature to a light lime green.
Botanical Name Dracaena deremensis
Common Names Corn plant, dracaena, striped dracaena
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 15–50 ft. tall, 3–10 ft. wide (outdoors), 4–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Corn Plant Care
Overall, caring for Dracaena deremensis is simple, and even beginner gardeners should have success. Regular watering will be your main task for these low-maintenance plants, along with feeding for half of the year.
Corn plants generally don’t have many problems with pests or diseases. You also won’t have to do much in the way of pruning, though you can prune off any foliage that becomes discolored or damaged for aesthetic purposes. You also can prune off the top of your plant if it becomes too tall for your preference. This will encourage bushier growth. If you’re growing your plant in a container, make sure the pot has ample drainage holes. Once the roots have grown to fill the space of the pot, replant your corn plant into the next pot size up using fresh potting mix.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like filtered sunlight. Direct sun, especially hot afternoon sun, can burn the leaves and cause the plant to wilt. Indoors, place your plant near a window where it can get bright, indirect light. While these plants can tolerate somewhat shady conditions, too little light can cause the leaves to lose their bright colors and not grow in size to their fullest potential.
Soil
An organically rich, loose soil is ideal for corn plants. The soil must have good drainage, as the roots are prone to rotting in soggy soil. A quality commercial potting mix is generally fine for container plants.
Water
Water regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall) to keep the soil evenly moist. In the winter you can back off on watering a little bit. But don’t ever allow the soil to dry out completely. If you stick your finger in the soil and feel it’s dry, then it’s time to water. Brown and dry leaf tips are a telltale sign that you’ve allowed the soil to dry out too much. It’s best to use non-fluorinated water, such as distilled water or rainwater, on corn plants because they’re sensitive to fluoride. Too much can cause the leaves to turn yellow or brown.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical plants like a warm, humid climate. They grow best in temperatures that are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t allow your plant to have prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, as this can damage or kill it. Humidity above 40% is ideal. Air that’s too dry can cause brown, dry leaf tips. If you notice this, you can occasionally mist the plant to raise humidity or put a potted plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water, making sure the bottom of the pot isn’t touching the water (as this can rot the roots).
Fertilizer
These plants aren't heavy feeders. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer, following label instructions. No fertilization is necessary in the fall and winter.
Corn Plant Varieties
Here are some popular varieties within this species:
Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’: This plant features stiff leaves with green and white stripes.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’: This plant has solid dark green leaves and also comes in a compact variety (‘Janet Craig Compacta’) whose leaves are only up to 8 inches long.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Lemon Lime’: Leaves that are a mix of cream, yellow-green, and lime green stripes are indicative of this variety.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Limelight’: Leaves start out yellow-green but then mature to a light lime green.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月13日
Few houseplants can boast blooms as vibrant as the fire lily (Clivia miniata). After your winter holiday when plants like poinsettias and amaryllis have faded, the fire lily fills a gap when the days are short and spring still seems far off. Despite its exotic appearance, the fire lily is easy to grow as a houseplant, producing large clusters of blooms in the dry environment of the typical home. This tropical perennial can also be grown as an outdoor landscape plant in USDA zones 10 to 11, where it is often massed in large drifts, much the way daylilies are used.
The Clivia genus is a member of the Amaryllidaceae family of plants, a group that includes the amaryllis—the popular winter houseplant. They can be introduced into the home as potted nursery plants at any time; if planted in the garden in warm climates, they are best planted at any time other than the hottest part of summer. These slow-growing plants can take several years to flower when they are planted from seeds.
Botanical Name Clivia miniata
Common Name Fire lily, natal lily, bush lily, clivia
Family Amaryllidaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 2 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Winter
Flower Color Orange, yellow, cream, pink
Hardiness Zones 10, 11
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Highly toxic in large quantities
Fire Lily Care
Like many South African plants, the fire lily is a tough and resilient specimen. Too much sun or water, though, will cause the plant's demise. If you've purchased a fire lily and it won't bloom, it is usually due to a lack of winter dormancy or immaturity. Fire lilies will grow for years in the same pot with little intervention.
Light
Fire lilies prefer partially shady conditions, which makes them valuable as a houseplant. If you grow your plant indoors all year, place it in a bright window. If you give your plant an outdoor location in the summer months, put it in a spot with dappled sunlight or morning sun.
Soil
Good drainage is important to a healthy fire lily plant. A chunky soil mix full of shredded bark, like those used for orchids, is suitable for a container-grown plant. A sandy cactus mix is also a good choice.
Water
Fire lilies need moderate water. Allow the soil to dry between waterings. When it's time for the early winter dormancy period, reduce watering to keep the soil just short of bone-dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Average room temperatures and low humidity help fire lilies look their best. A cool dormancy period increases the beauty of fire lily flowering. You can achieve this by keeping the plants in an unheated shed or garage in November and December. Plants should be kept between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during this time.
If moving fire lilies back and forth between indoors and an outdoor location, it's best to acclimate them slowly if the temperature range is substantial. Make sure to bring them back indoors before the weather approaches freezing.
Fertilizer
A slow-release houseplant fertilizer can help your fire lily thrive. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer from January until August, then use a fertilizer designed to increase blooming in September and October. Do not fertilize in the winter months leading up to bloom time.
Types of Fire Lily
Most fire lilies sold in garden centers are orange, fewer are yellow, and the rare and expensive cream or pink varieties are usually found through specialty nurseries.
'Doris' is dark orange with a yellow throat.
'Jenny' is orange with a yellow stripe.
'Tiny Tim' has shorter leaves and miniature orange blooms with white throats.
'Solomone Yellow' is a bright yellow.
'Vico Yellow' is a very pale yellow.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary for the fire lily. You can remove dead foliage as needed to keep the plant tidy.
Potting and Repotting Fire Lily
Fire lilies will grow happily in a container for years. A porous terra cotta pot will help with air circulation around the roots, preventing rot. Do not place a saucer under the pot; instead, you should use pot feet to let extra water drain away.
Fire lilies are slow-growing and like to be a little bit rootbound, so you won't need to repot them often. However, if the soil mix you used is getting compacted over time, give the fire lily a fresh pot of soil to maintain good aeration.
Propagating Fire Lily
You can propagate fire lilies by gently digging and dividing them. The base of the plant will branch off into thick roots that are easy to cut apart. Remove the plant from its pot and wash away the soil with a hose or sink sprayer. Each division should have one fan of leaves. If your plant doesn't have at least a dozen leaves, it won't flower.
How to Grow Fire Lily From Seed
Growing the fire lily from seed takes patience, as it may take several years for the slow-growing plants to bloom. Plant fresh seed collected from the fruiting capsule after bloom. Press seeds lightly into moist, sandy potting soil, and keep warm. Germination takes about three weeks.
Overwintering
When grown as houseplants, fire lilies require a rest period of about two to three months in fall and winter. For the first month, give them a temperature between 40- and 60-degrees Fahrenheit. After this, water just barely for six to eight weeks. When new flower stalks appear, you can give them more water and gradually acclimate them to normal room temperatures.
Common Pests
Mealybugs sometimes infest fire lilies. The fuzzy white pests will hide in the crown of the plant and suck out its juices. Dislodge them with a spray of water or use insecticidal soap.
FAQ
What is the difference between fire lilies and amaryllis?
Fire lilies are in the same plant family as the popular winter holiday gift plant amaryllis (Hippeastrum). Both have the same strappy foliage, and both are from South Africa. The amaryllis has larger flowers and blooms earlier in the year. The amaryllis has several hundred cultivars, so you can find a greater diversity in size, shape, and color within the amaryllis group than you can in the fire lilies.
How long does a fire lily live?
These hardy plants can survive for 10 years or so with proper care. Keep in mind that they might not bloom during the first season or two.
How can I keep animals away from my fire lily?
When growing the fire lily as a houseplant, keep it out of reach of curious dogs. When it's growing outside, consider covering the bed with wire mesh just underneath the soil, with appropriate-sized holes cut for the plant to grow through to prevent animals from digging up or munching on the bulbs.
The Clivia genus is a member of the Amaryllidaceae family of plants, a group that includes the amaryllis—the popular winter houseplant. They can be introduced into the home as potted nursery plants at any time; if planted in the garden in warm climates, they are best planted at any time other than the hottest part of summer. These slow-growing plants can take several years to flower when they are planted from seeds.
Botanical Name Clivia miniata
Common Name Fire lily, natal lily, bush lily, clivia
Family Amaryllidaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 2 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Winter
Flower Color Orange, yellow, cream, pink
Hardiness Zones 10, 11
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Highly toxic in large quantities
Fire Lily Care
Like many South African plants, the fire lily is a tough and resilient specimen. Too much sun or water, though, will cause the plant's demise. If you've purchased a fire lily and it won't bloom, it is usually due to a lack of winter dormancy or immaturity. Fire lilies will grow for years in the same pot with little intervention.
Light
Fire lilies prefer partially shady conditions, which makes them valuable as a houseplant. If you grow your plant indoors all year, place it in a bright window. If you give your plant an outdoor location in the summer months, put it in a spot with dappled sunlight or morning sun.
Soil
Good drainage is important to a healthy fire lily plant. A chunky soil mix full of shredded bark, like those used for orchids, is suitable for a container-grown plant. A sandy cactus mix is also a good choice.
Water
Fire lilies need moderate water. Allow the soil to dry between waterings. When it's time for the early winter dormancy period, reduce watering to keep the soil just short of bone-dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Average room temperatures and low humidity help fire lilies look their best. A cool dormancy period increases the beauty of fire lily flowering. You can achieve this by keeping the plants in an unheated shed or garage in November and December. Plants should be kept between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during this time.
If moving fire lilies back and forth between indoors and an outdoor location, it's best to acclimate them slowly if the temperature range is substantial. Make sure to bring them back indoors before the weather approaches freezing.
Fertilizer
A slow-release houseplant fertilizer can help your fire lily thrive. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer from January until August, then use a fertilizer designed to increase blooming in September and October. Do not fertilize in the winter months leading up to bloom time.
Types of Fire Lily
Most fire lilies sold in garden centers are orange, fewer are yellow, and the rare and expensive cream or pink varieties are usually found through specialty nurseries.
'Doris' is dark orange with a yellow throat.
'Jenny' is orange with a yellow stripe.
'Tiny Tim' has shorter leaves and miniature orange blooms with white throats.
'Solomone Yellow' is a bright yellow.
'Vico Yellow' is a very pale yellow.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary for the fire lily. You can remove dead foliage as needed to keep the plant tidy.
Potting and Repotting Fire Lily
Fire lilies will grow happily in a container for years. A porous terra cotta pot will help with air circulation around the roots, preventing rot. Do not place a saucer under the pot; instead, you should use pot feet to let extra water drain away.
Fire lilies are slow-growing and like to be a little bit rootbound, so you won't need to repot them often. However, if the soil mix you used is getting compacted over time, give the fire lily a fresh pot of soil to maintain good aeration.
Propagating Fire Lily
You can propagate fire lilies by gently digging and dividing them. The base of the plant will branch off into thick roots that are easy to cut apart. Remove the plant from its pot and wash away the soil with a hose or sink sprayer. Each division should have one fan of leaves. If your plant doesn't have at least a dozen leaves, it won't flower.
How to Grow Fire Lily From Seed
Growing the fire lily from seed takes patience, as it may take several years for the slow-growing plants to bloom. Plant fresh seed collected from the fruiting capsule after bloom. Press seeds lightly into moist, sandy potting soil, and keep warm. Germination takes about three weeks.
Overwintering
When grown as houseplants, fire lilies require a rest period of about two to three months in fall and winter. For the first month, give them a temperature between 40- and 60-degrees Fahrenheit. After this, water just barely for six to eight weeks. When new flower stalks appear, you can give them more water and gradually acclimate them to normal room temperatures.
Common Pests
Mealybugs sometimes infest fire lilies. The fuzzy white pests will hide in the crown of the plant and suck out its juices. Dislodge them with a spray of water or use insecticidal soap.
FAQ
What is the difference between fire lilies and amaryllis?
Fire lilies are in the same plant family as the popular winter holiday gift plant amaryllis (Hippeastrum). Both have the same strappy foliage, and both are from South Africa. The amaryllis has larger flowers and blooms earlier in the year. The amaryllis has several hundred cultivars, so you can find a greater diversity in size, shape, and color within the amaryllis group than you can in the fire lilies.
How long does a fire lily live?
These hardy plants can survive for 10 years or so with proper care. Keep in mind that they might not bloom during the first season or two.
How can I keep animals away from my fire lily?
When growing the fire lily as a houseplant, keep it out of reach of curious dogs. When it's growing outside, consider covering the bed with wire mesh just underneath the soil, with appropriate-sized holes cut for the plant to grow through to prevent animals from digging up or munching on the bulbs.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月31日
Caladiums are heat-loving perennials that have almost unparalleled foliage and make showy houseplants. The plant's large, arrow-shaped, paper-thin leaves come in a striking array of colors and patterns. A mass of caladium is an explosion of whites, greens, reds, and pinks that are mottled, veined, and striped. They can easily offer the visual impact of having planted flowers while only being foliage plants. Though they are grown mainly for their foliage, they do produce some flowers, which start in the form of spathes, or spikes. Plant these tubers in the springtime after the threat of frost has passed. As striking as they are, caladium plants are toxic to animals and humans.1
Common Name Caladium, elephant ears
Botanical Name Caladium
Family Araceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 12–30 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Indirect light (indoors), full to partial shade (outdoors)
Soil Type Rich, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Flower Color Green, pink, white, red
Hardiness Zones 9–10 (USDA)
Native Area Central America, South America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Caladium Care
Many gardeners use masses of these striking plants as summer accents and conversation pieces. Indoors or out, caladiums are seasonal tuberous plants that grow foliage from spring into autumn, peaking in the summer. Cut off any spathe as soon as they appear to ensure that all of the plants' energies are used for their gorgeous leaves. Caladium's rest period comes in the autumn or winter. Their rest period isn't determined by temperature or light cycle, but by how long the plants have been growing.
Caladiums are seasonal plants even in the tropics, where gardeners plant them in the spring and summer months when they'll thrive in the heat and humidity they require. Unless you live in zones 9 to 10, you should plan to grow them as annuals, or dig up the plants' tubers at the end of the growing season and store them for the winter.
When grown indoors, they do best with lots of heat, bright but indirect light, and plenty of humidity. Even under the best conditions, caladium foliage lasts only a few months before the leaves start to die back and the plant goes dormant again, which is normal.
Light
Caladium plants prefer indirect light or moderate shade indoors. The narrower the leaves, the greater the amount of sun they can withstand. Growing them outdoors in containers gives you more control over light conditions. In some climates, container plants can be grown in full sun, with careful monitoring. When growing them in a garden, give them partial shade to full shade; full sun scorches their leaves.2
Soil
Plant caladium in a rich, well-drained potting mix, such as a damp mix of soil and peat. Garden soil should be similarly rich and well-drained. The ideal soil pH is slightly acidic, at 5.5 to 6.2.
Water
When leaves appear on the plant, water as needed to keep the soil evenly moist. Never let the plant dry out. Stop watering the plant when the leaves start to die back. Resume watering when the leaves reappear next season.
Temperature and Humidity
The warmer the better for caladium houseplants. Aim for 70 degrees Fahrenheit, if possible, as that is the temperature at which tubers begin to grow. Keep the humidity as high as is practical.
When planting outdoors, you can transplant potted tubers (or, better yet, simply transfer them in peat pots) after the last frost date for your area. Plants grown this way should be started indoors four to six weeks prior to transplanting.
Fertilizer
Fertilize the plant weekly during the growing season with liquid fertilizer or use slow-release pellets.
Types of Caladium
There are literally too many cultivars to keep track of—caladium cultivars are green, red, pink, white, even orange. In many cases, cultivars are sold without names. Almost all cultivars are descended from C. bicolor, which is native to South America. Some books list these plants as C. hortulanum. Choose your variety based on its appearance. They will make a showy border or a single plant.
A few noteworthy cultivars include:
Caladium 'Creamsicle': This variety can be a vigorous grower. It features large green leaves accented with vibrant red and veined with bright white.
Caladium 'White Christmas': Large, arrow-shaped green leaves with a heavy "dusting" of bright white make a simple and striking color combination in this variety.
Caladium 'Miss Muffet': This dwarf variety reaches only about 8 inches in height and has lime-green leaves flecked with bright pink spots.
Caladium 'Puppy Love': This relative newcomer has pink leaves edged in green and can tolerate full sun in some climates.
Propagating Caladium
When the plants die back in the fall or early winter, you can save the tubers in a bag and replant them next year for another show. Tubers of mature caladium can also be divided using the following steps:
After the leaves begin to die back in the fall or early winter, use a sharp, sterile cutting tool to cut tubers. Make sure that each new tuber section has at least one growing site (with an eye or a knob). Either keep the tubers in the same pot (keeping them dry) or remove them, clean them, and put the tubers into sawdust or sand for storage. Let the tubers heal with a callous to prevent root rot.
Store the tubers above 55 degrees Fahrenheit to minimize the loss of healthy samples.
Plant the tubers outdoors or in pots again (callous end down) when the next growing season begins and soil temperatures are over 70 degrees Fahrenheit.3
Common Pests
Caladium are not bothered by many detrimental pests. But, they may be afflicted by caterpillars and grasshoppers that will chew on the leaves and need specific ways to eliminate the activity. Other pests that suck on the leaves and can be eradicated with insecticidal soaps include:
Aphids
Mealybugs
Mites
Thrips
Whiteflies
Common Problems With Caladium
Caladium leaves are typically colorful and attractive, so you easily notice if the plants have problems. If your caladium leaves turn unsightly colors, the issue may be easy to fix.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Caladium leaves will turn yellow if the plant is overwatered, underwatered, getting too much light, or experiencing temperature and humidity level stress. The plant may also be experiencing nutrient deficiencies, such as a lack of magnesium, nitrogen, or iron.
Leaves Turning Brown
There could be many reasons your caladium leaves are turning brown, including:
The plant is too dry.
It's getting too much direct sunlight.
It's not getting enough humidity.
It's over-fertilized.
Common Name Caladium, elephant ears
Botanical Name Caladium
Family Araceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 12–30 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Indirect light (indoors), full to partial shade (outdoors)
Soil Type Rich, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Flower Color Green, pink, white, red
Hardiness Zones 9–10 (USDA)
Native Area Central America, South America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Caladium Care
Many gardeners use masses of these striking plants as summer accents and conversation pieces. Indoors or out, caladiums are seasonal tuberous plants that grow foliage from spring into autumn, peaking in the summer. Cut off any spathe as soon as they appear to ensure that all of the plants' energies are used for their gorgeous leaves. Caladium's rest period comes in the autumn or winter. Their rest period isn't determined by temperature or light cycle, but by how long the plants have been growing.
Caladiums are seasonal plants even in the tropics, where gardeners plant them in the spring and summer months when they'll thrive in the heat and humidity they require. Unless you live in zones 9 to 10, you should plan to grow them as annuals, or dig up the plants' tubers at the end of the growing season and store them for the winter.
When grown indoors, they do best with lots of heat, bright but indirect light, and plenty of humidity. Even under the best conditions, caladium foliage lasts only a few months before the leaves start to die back and the plant goes dormant again, which is normal.
Light
Caladium plants prefer indirect light or moderate shade indoors. The narrower the leaves, the greater the amount of sun they can withstand. Growing them outdoors in containers gives you more control over light conditions. In some climates, container plants can be grown in full sun, with careful monitoring. When growing them in a garden, give them partial shade to full shade; full sun scorches their leaves.2
Soil
Plant caladium in a rich, well-drained potting mix, such as a damp mix of soil and peat. Garden soil should be similarly rich and well-drained. The ideal soil pH is slightly acidic, at 5.5 to 6.2.
Water
When leaves appear on the plant, water as needed to keep the soil evenly moist. Never let the plant dry out. Stop watering the plant when the leaves start to die back. Resume watering when the leaves reappear next season.
Temperature and Humidity
The warmer the better for caladium houseplants. Aim for 70 degrees Fahrenheit, if possible, as that is the temperature at which tubers begin to grow. Keep the humidity as high as is practical.
When planting outdoors, you can transplant potted tubers (or, better yet, simply transfer them in peat pots) after the last frost date for your area. Plants grown this way should be started indoors four to six weeks prior to transplanting.
Fertilizer
Fertilize the plant weekly during the growing season with liquid fertilizer or use slow-release pellets.
Types of Caladium
There are literally too many cultivars to keep track of—caladium cultivars are green, red, pink, white, even orange. In many cases, cultivars are sold without names. Almost all cultivars are descended from C. bicolor, which is native to South America. Some books list these plants as C. hortulanum. Choose your variety based on its appearance. They will make a showy border or a single plant.
A few noteworthy cultivars include:
Caladium 'Creamsicle': This variety can be a vigorous grower. It features large green leaves accented with vibrant red and veined with bright white.
Caladium 'White Christmas': Large, arrow-shaped green leaves with a heavy "dusting" of bright white make a simple and striking color combination in this variety.
Caladium 'Miss Muffet': This dwarf variety reaches only about 8 inches in height and has lime-green leaves flecked with bright pink spots.
Caladium 'Puppy Love': This relative newcomer has pink leaves edged in green and can tolerate full sun in some climates.
Propagating Caladium
When the plants die back in the fall or early winter, you can save the tubers in a bag and replant them next year for another show. Tubers of mature caladium can also be divided using the following steps:
After the leaves begin to die back in the fall or early winter, use a sharp, sterile cutting tool to cut tubers. Make sure that each new tuber section has at least one growing site (with an eye or a knob). Either keep the tubers in the same pot (keeping them dry) or remove them, clean them, and put the tubers into sawdust or sand for storage. Let the tubers heal with a callous to prevent root rot.
Store the tubers above 55 degrees Fahrenheit to minimize the loss of healthy samples.
Plant the tubers outdoors or in pots again (callous end down) when the next growing season begins and soil temperatures are over 70 degrees Fahrenheit.3
Common Pests
Caladium are not bothered by many detrimental pests. But, they may be afflicted by caterpillars and grasshoppers that will chew on the leaves and need specific ways to eliminate the activity. Other pests that suck on the leaves and can be eradicated with insecticidal soaps include:
Aphids
Mealybugs
Mites
Thrips
Whiteflies
Common Problems With Caladium
Caladium leaves are typically colorful and attractive, so you easily notice if the plants have problems. If your caladium leaves turn unsightly colors, the issue may be easy to fix.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Caladium leaves will turn yellow if the plant is overwatered, underwatered, getting too much light, or experiencing temperature and humidity level stress. The plant may also be experiencing nutrient deficiencies, such as a lack of magnesium, nitrogen, or iron.
Leaves Turning Brown
There could be many reasons your caladium leaves are turning brown, including:
The plant is too dry.
It's getting too much direct sunlight.
It's not getting enough humidity.
It's over-fertilized.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月29日
All cactus plants are members of the Cactaceae family, and there are thousands of species in all. There are two large groups of cacti grown as houseplants: desert cacti and forest cacti. Both are popular and familiar, and both can thrive indoors with relatively little maintenance. Cactus plants come in many sizes, but most indoor varieties are small to moderate,
Desert cacti are the more "traditional" cacti, usually covered with spines or hair and often growing in paddles, balls, or obelisks. Forest cacti grow in wooded areas, ranging from temperate forests to subtropical and tropical regions. The most well-known forest cacti may be the Christmas cactus, which is native to Brazil, and blooms in red, pink, purple, and even yellow. Both desert and forest cacti are slow-growing and boast beautiful blooms, but they have very different growing habits.
Botanical Name Cactaceae
Common Name Cactus, desert cactus, forest cactus
Plant Type Succulents (with some exceptions)
Mature Size Varies depending on variety
Sun Exposure Some direct sun; quantity varies depending on variety
Soil Type Well-draining, sandy soil
Soil pH 5.5-7
Bloom Time Varies
Flower Color Varies
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Deserts and rainforests around the world
Indoor Cactus Care
Desert cacti have a unique, stark beauty, and some of them feature the most beautiful flowers. Growing desert cacti is not difficult. These are among the toughest of all houseplants. There are dozens of kinds of desert cacti on the market and some species will bloom after three or four years in cultivation; others will take longer or never bloom indoors.
Forest cacti grow in tropical and subtropical regions throughout the world. They are often climbing or epiphytic plants that cling to trees and can make excellent hanging plants.
Light
Strong light is essential for healthy desert cacti, especially in the winter. Some species may scorch in direct summer sun if they haven't been hardened off first.
Forest cacti like bright, but not direct, sunlight. Move them outside during the summer.
Soil
Pot desert cactus into a fast-draining cacti mix. If one is not available, amend the regular potting soil with inorganic agents like sand or perlite to increase drainage and aeration. Cacti are slow-growing plants and will rarely need repotting. Also, remember that many species of cacti will bloom better when they are slightly under-potted.
For forest cactus, use a regular potting mix. Repot at the beginning of the growing season.
Water
In the spring and summer, when your desert cactus is actively growing and blooming or both, water whenever the compost begins to dry. During these waterings, make sure the plant is thoroughly watered. During the winter rest period, nearly cease watering. Only water if the plant begins to shrivel. The most common mistake with desert cacti is overwatering in the winter, which will cause rot either at the base of the plant or the tips of the growing areas. If the rot is advanced, it might be necessary to start new plants from cuttings or discard the whole plant.
Water your forest cactus as a normal houseplant during the summer months and when the buds begin to show. During the resting period, only water when the soil is dry to the touch. As with succulents and desert cacti, forest cactus should not be watered heavily during the rest period. Root rot will result. Advanced root rot can only be treated by taking new cuttings and starting over.
Temperature and Humidity
During the active growth period, desert cacti prefer hot, dry temperatures, ranging from 70-80 F In the winter, the plants prefer a cooler period, down to 55 F. In their desert habitats, many cacti are accustomed to very chilly nights. You must protect them from very cold winter drafts.
Forest cacti are somewhat less picky about temperature; during the growing season, they have a wide range, from 55-70 F. During the rest period, a colder spell of 50 F is essential.
Fertilizer
For desert cactus, use a cacti fertilizer during the growing season. Some growers have poor results with standard fertilizers, so it's probably worth it to seek out a specialized cacti fertilizer.
For forest cactus, fertilize during the growing season with a standard fertilizer. Reduce fertilizer during the growing season.
Indoor Cactus Varieties
'Bunny ear' has "bunny" shaped ears and white flowers. Bunny ear is a desert cactus.
'Old lady' has hair and plenty of spines, and looks like a pincushion. It's a desert cactus.
'Easter' offers bright, colorful blooms. Easter is a forest cactus.
'Star' features a star-shaped mound and yellow flowers. Star is a desert cactus.
Pruning
Most cacti don't need pruning, just the removal of dead or damaged growth with clean, sharp garden shears. We strongly suggest wearing protective gardening gloves while you perform this task.
Propagating Indoor Cactus Plants
If your cacti produce offshoots, you can propagate them. First, make sure you a have clean, sharp, sterile knife. Next, put on protective gloves to protect yourself: You do not want to get pierced by a cactus spine.
Slice off the offshoot as close to the base as possible. Let it sit in a dry place for a few days, giving it time to callus over the cut. Then, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and lay it flat on top of a good growing medium, we suggest potting mix for cacti and succulents, and mist often. Once it develops strong roots, it can be planted in its own pot.
How to Grow Indoor Cacti From Seed
Growing both desert and forest cactus plants from seed takes patience: these are very slow-growing plants. But if you insist, you can either collect seeds from a cactus that's bloomed or buy packaged seeds. The seeds may need to be stratified before planting.
Prepare a potting mix for cacti and succulents, filled with perlite and sand. Plant seeds as deep as they are wide, and cover with a thin later of either sand or the cacti potting mix. Water lightly, cover with plastic, and sit in a bright location (but not direct sun). Most cacti will germinate in about three weeks, and once they do you can remove the plastic covering during the day. In about six months, seedlings should be ready for their own pots.
Potting and Repotting Indoor Cactus Plants
Cacti should be repotted when they need fresh soil (most are fine being pot-bound). To repot both forest and desert cacti, start by putting on a pair of protective gloves. Remove your plant from its current pot, and use a clean trowel to loosen the roots. Fill the bottom of a terra-cotta pot with fast-draining cacti potting mix (for desert cacti), or regular potting mix (for forest cacti). Add your plant, spoon in the potting mix around the sides, and use a stick-shaped tool—a chopstick works—to push the soil down. Water lightly.
Common Pests and Diseases
All types of cactus can be prone to pests including mealybugs, scales, fungus gnats, and spider mites.1 In most cases, it's possible to carefully wash these pests off of plants using cotton swabs and water.
Desert cacti are the more "traditional" cacti, usually covered with spines or hair and often growing in paddles, balls, or obelisks. Forest cacti grow in wooded areas, ranging from temperate forests to subtropical and tropical regions. The most well-known forest cacti may be the Christmas cactus, which is native to Brazil, and blooms in red, pink, purple, and even yellow. Both desert and forest cacti are slow-growing and boast beautiful blooms, but they have very different growing habits.
Botanical Name Cactaceae
Common Name Cactus, desert cactus, forest cactus
Plant Type Succulents (with some exceptions)
Mature Size Varies depending on variety
Sun Exposure Some direct sun; quantity varies depending on variety
Soil Type Well-draining, sandy soil
Soil pH 5.5-7
Bloom Time Varies
Flower Color Varies
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Deserts and rainforests around the world
Indoor Cactus Care
Desert cacti have a unique, stark beauty, and some of them feature the most beautiful flowers. Growing desert cacti is not difficult. These are among the toughest of all houseplants. There are dozens of kinds of desert cacti on the market and some species will bloom after three or four years in cultivation; others will take longer or never bloom indoors.
Forest cacti grow in tropical and subtropical regions throughout the world. They are often climbing or epiphytic plants that cling to trees and can make excellent hanging plants.
Light
Strong light is essential for healthy desert cacti, especially in the winter. Some species may scorch in direct summer sun if they haven't been hardened off first.
Forest cacti like bright, but not direct, sunlight. Move them outside during the summer.
Soil
Pot desert cactus into a fast-draining cacti mix. If one is not available, amend the regular potting soil with inorganic agents like sand or perlite to increase drainage and aeration. Cacti are slow-growing plants and will rarely need repotting. Also, remember that many species of cacti will bloom better when they are slightly under-potted.
For forest cactus, use a regular potting mix. Repot at the beginning of the growing season.
Water
In the spring and summer, when your desert cactus is actively growing and blooming or both, water whenever the compost begins to dry. During these waterings, make sure the plant is thoroughly watered. During the winter rest period, nearly cease watering. Only water if the plant begins to shrivel. The most common mistake with desert cacti is overwatering in the winter, which will cause rot either at the base of the plant or the tips of the growing areas. If the rot is advanced, it might be necessary to start new plants from cuttings or discard the whole plant.
Water your forest cactus as a normal houseplant during the summer months and when the buds begin to show. During the resting period, only water when the soil is dry to the touch. As with succulents and desert cacti, forest cactus should not be watered heavily during the rest period. Root rot will result. Advanced root rot can only be treated by taking new cuttings and starting over.
Temperature and Humidity
During the active growth period, desert cacti prefer hot, dry temperatures, ranging from 70-80 F In the winter, the plants prefer a cooler period, down to 55 F. In their desert habitats, many cacti are accustomed to very chilly nights. You must protect them from very cold winter drafts.
Forest cacti are somewhat less picky about temperature; during the growing season, they have a wide range, from 55-70 F. During the rest period, a colder spell of 50 F is essential.
Fertilizer
For desert cactus, use a cacti fertilizer during the growing season. Some growers have poor results with standard fertilizers, so it's probably worth it to seek out a specialized cacti fertilizer.
For forest cactus, fertilize during the growing season with a standard fertilizer. Reduce fertilizer during the growing season.
Indoor Cactus Varieties
'Bunny ear' has "bunny" shaped ears and white flowers. Bunny ear is a desert cactus.
'Old lady' has hair and plenty of spines, and looks like a pincushion. It's a desert cactus.
'Easter' offers bright, colorful blooms. Easter is a forest cactus.
'Star' features a star-shaped mound and yellow flowers. Star is a desert cactus.
Pruning
Most cacti don't need pruning, just the removal of dead or damaged growth with clean, sharp garden shears. We strongly suggest wearing protective gardening gloves while you perform this task.
Propagating Indoor Cactus Plants
If your cacti produce offshoots, you can propagate them. First, make sure you a have clean, sharp, sterile knife. Next, put on protective gloves to protect yourself: You do not want to get pierced by a cactus spine.
Slice off the offshoot as close to the base as possible. Let it sit in a dry place for a few days, giving it time to callus over the cut. Then, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and lay it flat on top of a good growing medium, we suggest potting mix for cacti and succulents, and mist often. Once it develops strong roots, it can be planted in its own pot.
How to Grow Indoor Cacti From Seed
Growing both desert and forest cactus plants from seed takes patience: these are very slow-growing plants. But if you insist, you can either collect seeds from a cactus that's bloomed or buy packaged seeds. The seeds may need to be stratified before planting.
Prepare a potting mix for cacti and succulents, filled with perlite and sand. Plant seeds as deep as they are wide, and cover with a thin later of either sand or the cacti potting mix. Water lightly, cover with plastic, and sit in a bright location (but not direct sun). Most cacti will germinate in about three weeks, and once they do you can remove the plastic covering during the day. In about six months, seedlings should be ready for their own pots.
Potting and Repotting Indoor Cactus Plants
Cacti should be repotted when they need fresh soil (most are fine being pot-bound). To repot both forest and desert cacti, start by putting on a pair of protective gloves. Remove your plant from its current pot, and use a clean trowel to loosen the roots. Fill the bottom of a terra-cotta pot with fast-draining cacti potting mix (for desert cacti), or regular potting mix (for forest cacti). Add your plant, spoon in the potting mix around the sides, and use a stick-shaped tool—a chopstick works—to push the soil down. Water lightly.
Common Pests and Diseases
All types of cactus can be prone to pests including mealybugs, scales, fungus gnats, and spider mites.1 In most cases, it's possible to carefully wash these pests off of plants using cotton swabs and water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月28日
The baseball plant (Euphorbia obesa) is a succulent perennial that is native to the Cape Province of South Africa. Since its discovery during the late 1800s, baseball plants have exploded in popularity as houseplants due to their unique appearance and low-maintenance needs. Though baseball plants are actually considered an endangered species in their native habitat due to unsustainable harvesting, they can easily be found in garden centers. Today, national and international legislation that prohibits harvesting baseball plants has been enacted in an effort to protect the remaining native populations of baseball plants.
These long-lived, slow-growing succulents are characterized by bulbous shape, V-shaped markings, and seam-like ridges that resemble stitching. Rather than branches or leaves, the plant consists of a single wide stem body from which the flowers sprout. Young baseball plants are round in shape but become more elongated and cylindrically shaped with maturity. Baseball plants are also called sea urchin plants since they loosely resemble that creature.
The plants are dioecious, with either male or female flowers that are yellow in color and rather insignificant in appearance. To produce seeds, the female flowers must be cross-pollinated by a male plant, and for this reason, the plant is rarely propagated by seed except in the nursery trade.
Botanical Name Euphorbia obesa
Common Name Baseball plant, sea urchin plant
Plant Type Succulent perennial
Mature Size 7 to 8 inches tall, up to 4 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, direct light; tolerates some shade
Soil Type Well-draining cactus/succulent potting mix
Soil pH 6.0–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer (flowers are fairly insignificant)
Flower Color Grayish-green
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA); grown as houseplants in all zones
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Baseball Plant Care
Baseball plants are relatively easy plants to care for as long as their light and water requirements are met. They thrive if grown in a standard coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents and placed in a location that receives plenty of sunlight or at constant bright indirect light. They are slow-growing plants that can be allowed to fill their pots before repotting becomes necessary. Few houseplants require less care than baseball plants.
Baseball plants do not produce leaves or foliage but they do produce small, fragrant flowers in the summer months. The tough stem structures are largely impervious to pest and disease problems, but if overwatered or allowed to soak in water, the roots may develop rot.
Light
In their native habitat, baseball plants are accustomed to plenty of bright, direct sunlight. When grown indoors, baseball plants should receive at least four hours of direct sunlight a day if possible. Loss of color and pattern, as well as a loss of shape, are all indications that your baseball plant is not receiving enough light; etiolated ("leggy") growth is another indication. Place your baseball plant in a south or east-facing window in your home to ensure it receives adequate sunlight.
Soil
Baseball plants require coarse, well-draining potting soil in order to thrive and should be planted in a potting mix intended for cacti and succulents. Cactus soil is available at most commercial nurseries and garden centers, but if you don’t have one readily available you can easily make your own by mixing 3 parts regular potting soil, 2 parts coarse sand, and 1 part perlite.
Water
Baseball plants, like most succulents and cacti, do not tolerate overwatering. Water the plant only when the soil is thoroughly dry. Baseball plants require more water during the spring and summer months, and significantly less water during their dormant period in the fall and winter months.
Temperature and Humidity
Baseball plants appreciate warm temperatures. When grown inside, the average household temperature is more than sufficient. However, be careful to avoid placing your baseball plant in areas with cold drafts, as it can inhibit growth. If grown outdoors, they can tolerate occasional temperatures down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, baseball plants do not require regular fertilization, as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil. However, fertilizing your baseball plant during the spring can help it to thrive during its peak growing season. Be sure to use a cactus/succulent fertilizer for the best results.
Propagating Baseball Plant
Like other species of Euphorbia, baseball plant is difficult to propagate from seeds, since male and female plants require cross-pollination in order to produce seeds. Further, the seeds are very slow-growing.
Euphorbias such as E. obesa, which have a single stem structure rather than individual branches, are normally propagated by first decapitating the plant at soil level. When small new growth structures emerge around the remaining root body, each new offset can be carefully cut away and replanted in coarse cactus/succulent planting mix. These are quite -growing plants that can take as much as eight years before they mature into flowering plants.
Potting and Repotting
Baseball plants do well in any coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents. They do not require frequent repotting, and should only be repotted once the circumference of the plant is pushing against the edge of the pot. Protective gardening gloves should be worn at all times while repotting baseball plants as their sap can irritate the skin upon contact.
These long-lived, slow-growing succulents are characterized by bulbous shape, V-shaped markings, and seam-like ridges that resemble stitching. Rather than branches or leaves, the plant consists of a single wide stem body from which the flowers sprout. Young baseball plants are round in shape but become more elongated and cylindrically shaped with maturity. Baseball plants are also called sea urchin plants since they loosely resemble that creature.
The plants are dioecious, with either male or female flowers that are yellow in color and rather insignificant in appearance. To produce seeds, the female flowers must be cross-pollinated by a male plant, and for this reason, the plant is rarely propagated by seed except in the nursery trade.
Botanical Name Euphorbia obesa
Common Name Baseball plant, sea urchin plant
Plant Type Succulent perennial
Mature Size 7 to 8 inches tall, up to 4 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, direct light; tolerates some shade
Soil Type Well-draining cactus/succulent potting mix
Soil pH 6.0–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer (flowers are fairly insignificant)
Flower Color Grayish-green
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA); grown as houseplants in all zones
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Baseball Plant Care
Baseball plants are relatively easy plants to care for as long as their light and water requirements are met. They thrive if grown in a standard coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents and placed in a location that receives plenty of sunlight or at constant bright indirect light. They are slow-growing plants that can be allowed to fill their pots before repotting becomes necessary. Few houseplants require less care than baseball plants.
Baseball plants do not produce leaves or foliage but they do produce small, fragrant flowers in the summer months. The tough stem structures are largely impervious to pest and disease problems, but if overwatered or allowed to soak in water, the roots may develop rot.
Light
In their native habitat, baseball plants are accustomed to plenty of bright, direct sunlight. When grown indoors, baseball plants should receive at least four hours of direct sunlight a day if possible. Loss of color and pattern, as well as a loss of shape, are all indications that your baseball plant is not receiving enough light; etiolated ("leggy") growth is another indication. Place your baseball plant in a south or east-facing window in your home to ensure it receives adequate sunlight.
Soil
Baseball plants require coarse, well-draining potting soil in order to thrive and should be planted in a potting mix intended for cacti and succulents. Cactus soil is available at most commercial nurseries and garden centers, but if you don’t have one readily available you can easily make your own by mixing 3 parts regular potting soil, 2 parts coarse sand, and 1 part perlite.
Water
Baseball plants, like most succulents and cacti, do not tolerate overwatering. Water the plant only when the soil is thoroughly dry. Baseball plants require more water during the spring and summer months, and significantly less water during their dormant period in the fall and winter months.
Temperature and Humidity
Baseball plants appreciate warm temperatures. When grown inside, the average household temperature is more than sufficient. However, be careful to avoid placing your baseball plant in areas with cold drafts, as it can inhibit growth. If grown outdoors, they can tolerate occasional temperatures down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, baseball plants do not require regular fertilization, as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil. However, fertilizing your baseball plant during the spring can help it to thrive during its peak growing season. Be sure to use a cactus/succulent fertilizer for the best results.
Propagating Baseball Plant
Like other species of Euphorbia, baseball plant is difficult to propagate from seeds, since male and female plants require cross-pollination in order to produce seeds. Further, the seeds are very slow-growing.
Euphorbias such as E. obesa, which have a single stem structure rather than individual branches, are normally propagated by first decapitating the plant at soil level. When small new growth structures emerge around the remaining root body, each new offset can be carefully cut away and replanted in coarse cactus/succulent planting mix. These are quite -growing plants that can take as much as eight years before they mature into flowering plants.
Potting and Repotting
Baseball plants do well in any coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents. They do not require frequent repotting, and should only be repotted once the circumference of the plant is pushing against the edge of the pot. Protective gardening gloves should be worn at all times while repotting baseball plants as their sap can irritate the skin upon contact.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月08日
Growing avocados outdoors as productive fruit trees can be tricky, but growing them as houseplants is fun and easy, resulting in a seedling that will eventually turn into an attractive little specimen with glossy, oval leaves 4 to 8 inches long. True, it's unlikely your tree will ever bear fruit (unless you give it about 10 years), and even if it does, the fruit from the offspring most likely won't resemble the original. But as an indoor plant, an avocado has plenty of merit as a decorative novelty. Keep in mind that all parts of the avocado plant are toxic to animals.1
Common Name Avocado
Botanical Name Persea americana
Family Lauraceae
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen fruit tree
Mature Size 30 to 60 ft. in the landscape; potted plants can be pruned to remain small
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type General-purpose potting soil
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5, tolerates acidic or alkaline soil
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Greenish-yellow
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA), any zone as a houseplant
Native Area Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to dogs, birds, and horses
Avocado Plant Care
When avocado is grown as a houseplant, it is often grown from seed (the fruit pits) that can be sprouted in water or directly in potting soil.
Established plants will do best in sunny windows. Fertilize them regularly in spring and summer with a balanced granular fertilizer.
Avocados grown indoors are mostly novelty plants. If you want it to bear fruit and turn into the tree it really is, you'll have to move your avocado outside, but this may only work if you live in a warmer climate.
Light
Like banana trees, avocado plants thrive in full sun. They will tolerate some shade, but potted indoor plants generally need the brightest spot you can find. If you're starting from a seed, the seed can be kept on a bright windowsill until roots form, and the first leaves emerge.
Water
Avocado plants should be kept continuously moist, but adequate drainage is essential. Watch for leaf yellowing, which is a sign of too much water.
Temperature
Avocado plants prefer warm growing seasons, but can take winter temperatures down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, when growth will slow.
Soil
A rich, fast-draining potting soil mix is ideal.
Fertilizer
Fertilize abundantly during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Types of Avocado Plants
Although there are about 1,000 varieties of avocado, the one most likely to find its way into your home is the Haas avocado, which is grown in tremendous quantities in California and throughout Latin America. These are small, pebbly avocados with high-fat content and delicious flesh. Larger, lighter green Florida avocados are also found in season. These have less fat and are sometimes marketed as health-conscious avocados. You'll find plenty of healthy pits inside any of these types of avocados that you can use to grow your plants.
Pruning
The first serious trimming should occur when the plant is only 12 inches tall. At that time, cut it back to 6 inches and allow for new leaves and stems to form.
As it gets taller, pinch off new growth throughout the summer to force new branches to form, because avocado fruit develops on new growth. Keeping the new growth pinched off will also keep the plant bushy while controlling its size.
Propagating Avocado Plants
Avocado can be propagated in a number of ways., but is usually done for avocado trees planted in the landscape. Professionals graft desirable avocado varieties onto disease-resistant root-stock to produce a disease-resistant tree with the desired kind of fruit or preferred size.
They can also be propagated by air-layering: Encouraging roots to grow by scarring a tree branch, wrapping the wounded area with a small amount of rooting medium, and allowing a bundle of roots to develop while the branch is still on the tree. Once a network of roots are developed, the branch is snipped off and planted in soil.
How to Grow Avocado Plants From Seed
For houseplants, propagate an avocado plant with the seed of the fruit. The seed of an avocado is the large brown pit. Here's how to grow your avocado houseplant:
To sprout an avocado seed, insert three toothpicks into the seed and suspend it with the broad end down over a glass of water.
Cover about an inch of the seed with water.
Keep it in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight.
The seed should sprout in two to six weeks. Let the young plant grow to six inches, then cut it back to three inches to encourage stronger root growth.
When the roots have grown thick and the stem has new leaves again, plant in soil in a pot about 10 inches in diameter, leaving half the seed still exposed above the soil. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole.
Potting and Repotting Avocado Plants
Repot your avocado every spring when the plant begins to grow again. For the first few years, trimming your avocado is necessary to encourage a bushy plant. You can place the avocado outside during summer, and bring it inside before first frost.
Overwintering
Bring your plants inside if it's going to be below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Winter's lack of humidity may cause your plant to lose leaves, but they will come back when the weather is warm.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Look for symptoms like leaf yellowing, which can indicate too much water or sluggish drainage. They may develop root rot in overly wet potting soil. Also, keep an eye out for a white crust on the soil, this means an excess of salt build-up from the fertilizer. Flush the pot regularly.2
When grown outdoors, avocado trees are threatened by laurel wilt, caused by the Raffaelea lauricola fungus. It is transmitted by several different species of ambrosia beetle. Infected trees usually succumb within 4 to 8 weeks.
Common Name Avocado
Botanical Name Persea americana
Family Lauraceae
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen fruit tree
Mature Size 30 to 60 ft. in the landscape; potted plants can be pruned to remain small
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type General-purpose potting soil
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5, tolerates acidic or alkaline soil
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Greenish-yellow
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA), any zone as a houseplant
Native Area Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to dogs, birds, and horses
Avocado Plant Care
When avocado is grown as a houseplant, it is often grown from seed (the fruit pits) that can be sprouted in water or directly in potting soil.
Established plants will do best in sunny windows. Fertilize them regularly in spring and summer with a balanced granular fertilizer.
Avocados grown indoors are mostly novelty plants. If you want it to bear fruit and turn into the tree it really is, you'll have to move your avocado outside, but this may only work if you live in a warmer climate.
Light
Like banana trees, avocado plants thrive in full sun. They will tolerate some shade, but potted indoor plants generally need the brightest spot you can find. If you're starting from a seed, the seed can be kept on a bright windowsill until roots form, and the first leaves emerge.
Water
Avocado plants should be kept continuously moist, but adequate drainage is essential. Watch for leaf yellowing, which is a sign of too much water.
Temperature
Avocado plants prefer warm growing seasons, but can take winter temperatures down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, when growth will slow.
Soil
A rich, fast-draining potting soil mix is ideal.
Fertilizer
Fertilize abundantly during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Types of Avocado Plants
Although there are about 1,000 varieties of avocado, the one most likely to find its way into your home is the Haas avocado, which is grown in tremendous quantities in California and throughout Latin America. These are small, pebbly avocados with high-fat content and delicious flesh. Larger, lighter green Florida avocados are also found in season. These have less fat and are sometimes marketed as health-conscious avocados. You'll find plenty of healthy pits inside any of these types of avocados that you can use to grow your plants.
Pruning
The first serious trimming should occur when the plant is only 12 inches tall. At that time, cut it back to 6 inches and allow for new leaves and stems to form.
As it gets taller, pinch off new growth throughout the summer to force new branches to form, because avocado fruit develops on new growth. Keeping the new growth pinched off will also keep the plant bushy while controlling its size.
Propagating Avocado Plants
Avocado can be propagated in a number of ways., but is usually done for avocado trees planted in the landscape. Professionals graft desirable avocado varieties onto disease-resistant root-stock to produce a disease-resistant tree with the desired kind of fruit or preferred size.
They can also be propagated by air-layering: Encouraging roots to grow by scarring a tree branch, wrapping the wounded area with a small amount of rooting medium, and allowing a bundle of roots to develop while the branch is still on the tree. Once a network of roots are developed, the branch is snipped off and planted in soil.
How to Grow Avocado Plants From Seed
For houseplants, propagate an avocado plant with the seed of the fruit. The seed of an avocado is the large brown pit. Here's how to grow your avocado houseplant:
To sprout an avocado seed, insert three toothpicks into the seed and suspend it with the broad end down over a glass of water.
Cover about an inch of the seed with water.
Keep it in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight.
The seed should sprout in two to six weeks. Let the young plant grow to six inches, then cut it back to three inches to encourage stronger root growth.
When the roots have grown thick and the stem has new leaves again, plant in soil in a pot about 10 inches in diameter, leaving half the seed still exposed above the soil. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole.
Potting and Repotting Avocado Plants
Repot your avocado every spring when the plant begins to grow again. For the first few years, trimming your avocado is necessary to encourage a bushy plant. You can place the avocado outside during summer, and bring it inside before first frost.
Overwintering
Bring your plants inside if it's going to be below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Winter's lack of humidity may cause your plant to lose leaves, but they will come back when the weather is warm.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Look for symptoms like leaf yellowing, which can indicate too much water or sluggish drainage. They may develop root rot in overly wet potting soil. Also, keep an eye out for a white crust on the soil, this means an excess of salt build-up from the fertilizer. Flush the pot regularly.2
When grown outdoors, avocado trees are threatened by laurel wilt, caused by the Raffaelea lauricola fungus. It is transmitted by several different species of ambrosia beetle. Infected trees usually succumb within 4 to 8 weeks.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月10日
Anthurium is a genus of around 1,000 species of perennial plants native to Central America, northern South America, and the Caribbean. While they can be grown outdoors in the garden in warm climates, anthurium is more often grown as houseplants by enthusiasts willing to put forth the effort for a plant that can be fussy. Some species are highly prized for their bright, exotic flowers, while others are grown mostly for their foliage.
The flowering varieties of these plants are distinctive for their multicolored spathes and red or yellow tail-like flower spikes. Other varieties feature large-leaved, deeply veined foliage. Many anthuriums are climbers and all need high humidity and warmth to thrive. They tend to thrive in greenhouses, and no type of anthurium is particularly well-suited for indoor, domestic living without a lot of attention and care.
Botanical Name Anthurnium spp.
Common Names Anthurium, tailflower, flamingo flower, laceleaf
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light
Soil Type Coarse, moist potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Flowers freely
Bloom Color Red, pink, or white, with contrasting spadex
Hardiness Zones 11 to 12
Native Area Central America, northern South America, Caribbean.
Anthurium Plant Care
Anthurium plants thrive in bright, indirect light. They do not like exposure to direct sunlight, except in the winter months or in plants that have been carefully acclimated. Wild anthuriums generally live in temperatures at or above 60 degrees Fahrenheit and the foliage types prefer temperatures even warmer. If temperatures dip below this level, the plant will suffer.
Potted anthuriums prefer a rich but well-draining potting mix that should be kept moist but not wet. A potting mix tailored for orchids, with a few handfuls of sand and a few handfuls of peat moss mixed in, is ideal.
In natural settings, many anthurium plants are "epiphytic"—they grow on other plants instead of in soil. If your plant fails to support itself, give it a stake or small trellis to climb on.
Repotting should be done whenever the plant fills up its pot with roots.This can occur every year or two, when you see "air roots" begin to extend up above the soil level. This is a sign that the plant can be repotted, which is also a good time to propagate new plants.
Light
Indoors or out, anthuriums grow best in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can burn the leaves.
Soil
Anthuriums prefer a coarse, well-draining potting. An orchid mix with additional sand and peat moss mixed in, makes a perfect potting mix for anthuriums.
Water
The soil should be kept slightly moist and never allowed to dry out completely. Setting the pot in a tray of water-filled gravel will help the plant drain and also help keep humidity levels high. Allow the top of the soil to dry out to the touch before watering again.
Temperature and Humidity
All species of anthurium are native tropical plants and mimicking those conditions will give you the best chances for success. This plant prefers high humidity and temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants can be grown outside only in zones 11 to 12, and will likely perish at temperatures 40 degrees or less.
In dry climates—or during dry winter months—mist the plant daily to keep humidity levels high. You may find it necessary to run a humidifier constantly during dry months.
Fertilizer
It is safe and recommended to use liquid fertilizer throughout the growing period. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus, and dilute it to half strength to feed the plants every two weeks or so.
Propagating Anthuriums
An easy way to create new anthuriums is by cutting off the "air roots" that grow up above the soil level in the pot, dipping these root pieces in rooting hormone, and burying them in a new pot with fresh potting mix. Roots will start to send up stems and leaves within four to six weeks.
Anthuriums can also be propagated from cuttings. Select a stem at least 6 inches long with two or three sets of leaves. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone, then bury it in potting mix up to the first set of leaves. Water the cutting thoroughly when you plant it, then whenever the soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting each week to provide humidity. The cutting should develop roots within four to six weeks, and new growth shoots will soon follow.
Potting and Repotting
When an anthurium fills up its pot with roots and begins to send up plentiful air roots, it is time to repot. Normally, this is necessary every two years or so. Transfer the plant to a pot that only slightly larger than the old one—no more than 2 inches larger. Fill the pot only about 1/3 full of potting mix, then set the plant onto the soil and lightly pack additional soil around the base, up to the level the plant was buried in its old pot.
As new air roots form above the soil over the following weeks, lightly pack additional potting mix around the exposed roots.
Varieties of Anthurium
Common varieties sold as house plants include:
A. andreanum: These feature heart-shaped leaves that grow up to 1 foot, with flowers available in red, white, pink, and variegated colors. They are distinguished by a straight flower spike.
A. scherzerianum: The most forgiving of anthuriums, it features a curling orange flower spike and the leaves are arrow-shaped.
Anthuriums are collector's plants, and many of the most magnificent varieties are rarely found outside of greenhouses and botanical gardens. Other, less common species to consider include:
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
Common Pests/ Diseases
These plants are subject to some of the same pests that commonly affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, whitefly, and scale. Horticultural oils and soaps can be used to treat these.
If dry or drafty locations, the foliage on anthuriums may scorch. In rare cases, fungal rots, blights, or leaf spots may occur.
The flowering varieties of these plants are distinctive for their multicolored spathes and red or yellow tail-like flower spikes. Other varieties feature large-leaved, deeply veined foliage. Many anthuriums are climbers and all need high humidity and warmth to thrive. They tend to thrive in greenhouses, and no type of anthurium is particularly well-suited for indoor, domestic living without a lot of attention and care.
Botanical Name Anthurnium spp.
Common Names Anthurium, tailflower, flamingo flower, laceleaf
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light
Soil Type Coarse, moist potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Flowers freely
Bloom Color Red, pink, or white, with contrasting spadex
Hardiness Zones 11 to 12
Native Area Central America, northern South America, Caribbean.
Anthurium Plant Care
Anthurium plants thrive in bright, indirect light. They do not like exposure to direct sunlight, except in the winter months or in plants that have been carefully acclimated. Wild anthuriums generally live in temperatures at or above 60 degrees Fahrenheit and the foliage types prefer temperatures even warmer. If temperatures dip below this level, the plant will suffer.
Potted anthuriums prefer a rich but well-draining potting mix that should be kept moist but not wet. A potting mix tailored for orchids, with a few handfuls of sand and a few handfuls of peat moss mixed in, is ideal.
In natural settings, many anthurium plants are "epiphytic"—they grow on other plants instead of in soil. If your plant fails to support itself, give it a stake or small trellis to climb on.
Repotting should be done whenever the plant fills up its pot with roots.This can occur every year or two, when you see "air roots" begin to extend up above the soil level. This is a sign that the plant can be repotted, which is also a good time to propagate new plants.
Light
Indoors or out, anthuriums grow best in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can burn the leaves.
Soil
Anthuriums prefer a coarse, well-draining potting. An orchid mix with additional sand and peat moss mixed in, makes a perfect potting mix for anthuriums.
Water
The soil should be kept slightly moist and never allowed to dry out completely. Setting the pot in a tray of water-filled gravel will help the plant drain and also help keep humidity levels high. Allow the top of the soil to dry out to the touch before watering again.
Temperature and Humidity
All species of anthurium are native tropical plants and mimicking those conditions will give you the best chances for success. This plant prefers high humidity and temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants can be grown outside only in zones 11 to 12, and will likely perish at temperatures 40 degrees or less.
In dry climates—or during dry winter months—mist the plant daily to keep humidity levels high. You may find it necessary to run a humidifier constantly during dry months.
Fertilizer
It is safe and recommended to use liquid fertilizer throughout the growing period. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus, and dilute it to half strength to feed the plants every two weeks or so.
Propagating Anthuriums
An easy way to create new anthuriums is by cutting off the "air roots" that grow up above the soil level in the pot, dipping these root pieces in rooting hormone, and burying them in a new pot with fresh potting mix. Roots will start to send up stems and leaves within four to six weeks.
Anthuriums can also be propagated from cuttings. Select a stem at least 6 inches long with two or three sets of leaves. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone, then bury it in potting mix up to the first set of leaves. Water the cutting thoroughly when you plant it, then whenever the soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting each week to provide humidity. The cutting should develop roots within four to six weeks, and new growth shoots will soon follow.
Potting and Repotting
When an anthurium fills up its pot with roots and begins to send up plentiful air roots, it is time to repot. Normally, this is necessary every two years or so. Transfer the plant to a pot that only slightly larger than the old one—no more than 2 inches larger. Fill the pot only about 1/3 full of potting mix, then set the plant onto the soil and lightly pack additional soil around the base, up to the level the plant was buried in its old pot.
As new air roots form above the soil over the following weeks, lightly pack additional potting mix around the exposed roots.
Varieties of Anthurium
Common varieties sold as house plants include:
A. andreanum: These feature heart-shaped leaves that grow up to 1 foot, with flowers available in red, white, pink, and variegated colors. They are distinguished by a straight flower spike.
A. scherzerianum: The most forgiving of anthuriums, it features a curling orange flower spike and the leaves are arrow-shaped.
Anthuriums are collector's plants, and many of the most magnificent varieties are rarely found outside of greenhouses and botanical gardens. Other, less common species to consider include:
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
Common Pests/ Diseases
These plants are subject to some of the same pests that commonly affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, whitefly, and scale. Horticultural oils and soaps can be used to treat these.
If dry or drafty locations, the foliage on anthuriums may scorch. In rare cases, fungal rots, blights, or leaf spots may occur.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月23日
The giant amaryllis flowers commonly grown as winter-blooming houseplants are generally carefully bred hybrids derived from various species in the Hippeastrum genus, a group of tropical plants from Central and South America. These plants have strappy leaves and huge flowers shaped like trumpet lilies. The blooms are typically are a deep red, pink, white, or blend of these colors. You can expect your amaryllis to bloom for seven weeks or longer.
There is also a true amaryllis genus containing just two species native to South Africa. These are not, however, the plants cultivated in the U.S. as amaryllis.
Controlling Bloom Time
If grown in a frost-free garden (zones 8 to 10), amaryllis will naturally bloom in March, April, and May, with fall rebloom possible. But amaryllis bulbs are often purchased to grow as potted plants for holiday bloom, which is only possible if you plant the dormant bulbs at precisely the right time—about 10 to 12 weeks before desired bloom time. When you buy commercial bulbs from a grower for Christmas bloom, these are dormant bulbs that should be kept cool until the right planting time.
If you already have potted amaryllis plants, future blooms can be controlled by setting the plant outdoors to grow through the summer, then bringing it indoors and forcing them into a short period of dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer for several weeks, then restarting the bulbs.
Botanical Name Hippeastrum (Group)
Common Name Amaryllis
Plant Type Perennial bulb
Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall; 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil (outdoors); rich potting mix (indoors)
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Red, pink, white with spots and bands
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 (USDA)
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Amaryllis Care
The techniques for growing amaryllis vary, depending on whether you're growing it indoors or outdoors, and when you want it to bloom.
As a New Indoor Plant for Seasonal Blooms
Partially fill a 5- to 7-inch pot with a good-quality, well-draining potting mix, then plant the amaryllis bulb so the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting mix. The bulbs should be planted 10 to 12 weeks before you want them to bloom.
Place a bamboo stalk alongside the bulb. The flowers can get top-heavy, and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging the bulb and roots later.
Water well, then place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet. A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight.
Forcing an Existing Plant Into Holiday Bloom
To force a potted amaryllis to bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade. Keep the watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding in August. When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot, and stop watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, count backward about 10 to 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering.
The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over.
Allowing Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally
To allow your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out. Keep the plant watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding the plant in August. Bring it indoors before a frost hits it and place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flower stalks should appear in a month or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms.
When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers.
As a Garden Plant
In zones 8 to 10, amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the garden. If your area is entirely frost-free, plant the bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. In areas where frost is possible, set the bulbs with 5 to 6 inches of soil above them, followed by 5 to 6 inches of mulch. Water thoroughly after planting, but then water only when the top 2 inches of soil is dry.
After leaves appear, feed with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis generally bloom in March, April, and May. When flowering is complete, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage to continue growing. If any leaves turn yellow, cut them off.
From June to September, water the plants only during dry periods. In fall, apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The plants typically go dormant over winter.
Light
Amaryllis will grow in full sun to part shade conditions. Outdoors, bright shade is the best environment. Grown as potted plants indoors, they prefer morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon.
Soil
Outdoors, grow amaryllis bulbs in well-drained, fertile soil. When growing potted bulbs, use a good-quality, well-draining sandy loam potting mix.
Water
During the growing/ flowering period, water your amaryllis whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. Amaryllis requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing amaryllis into seasonal bloom requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule (see above).
Temperature and Humidity
Amaryllis are tropical plants that prefer warm temperatures. Outdoors, they are hardy to zone 8, and zone 7 gardeners can sometimes overwinter them in the garden if the ground is heavily mulched.
Fertilizer
During the growth period, feed your amaryllis with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. After flowering, withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the bulbs.
Varieties of Amaryllis
There are dozens of different amaryllis varieties, and the choice really depends on what flower color most appeals to you. Some recommended choices include:
'Samba': This variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings.
'Apple Blossom': This popular variety has blooms that mix pink and white, with green throats.
'Faro': This plant has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. The blooms are smaller and more delicate than with most varieties.
'Summertime': This plant has large 7-inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with greenish centers.
'Matterhorn': This is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats are yellow-green.
Pruning
When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can move the amaryllis outdoors for the summer, placing it in a part-shade location.
Propagating Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot them up to produce more plants. Give them a few seasons of growth before expecting flowers.
Common Pests and Diseases
Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealybugs, which can be treated with horticultural oil. Outdoor plants may be feasted upon by slugs and snails.
If your amaryllis doesn't bloom, it is often because it received no rest period after the last bloom, or because it is not receiving adequate light.
There is also a true amaryllis genus containing just two species native to South Africa. These are not, however, the plants cultivated in the U.S. as amaryllis.
Controlling Bloom Time
If grown in a frost-free garden (zones 8 to 10), amaryllis will naturally bloom in March, April, and May, with fall rebloom possible. But amaryllis bulbs are often purchased to grow as potted plants for holiday bloom, which is only possible if you plant the dormant bulbs at precisely the right time—about 10 to 12 weeks before desired bloom time. When you buy commercial bulbs from a grower for Christmas bloom, these are dormant bulbs that should be kept cool until the right planting time.
If you already have potted amaryllis plants, future blooms can be controlled by setting the plant outdoors to grow through the summer, then bringing it indoors and forcing them into a short period of dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer for several weeks, then restarting the bulbs.
Botanical Name Hippeastrum (Group)
Common Name Amaryllis
Plant Type Perennial bulb
Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall; 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil (outdoors); rich potting mix (indoors)
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Red, pink, white with spots and bands
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 (USDA)
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Amaryllis Care
The techniques for growing amaryllis vary, depending on whether you're growing it indoors or outdoors, and when you want it to bloom.
As a New Indoor Plant for Seasonal Blooms
Partially fill a 5- to 7-inch pot with a good-quality, well-draining potting mix, then plant the amaryllis bulb so the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting mix. The bulbs should be planted 10 to 12 weeks before you want them to bloom.
Place a bamboo stalk alongside the bulb. The flowers can get top-heavy, and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging the bulb and roots later.
Water well, then place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet. A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight.
Forcing an Existing Plant Into Holiday Bloom
To force a potted amaryllis to bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade. Keep the watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding in August. When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot, and stop watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, count backward about 10 to 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering.
The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over.
Allowing Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally
To allow your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out. Keep the plant watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding the plant in August. Bring it indoors before a frost hits it and place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flower stalks should appear in a month or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms.
When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers.
As a Garden Plant
In zones 8 to 10, amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the garden. If your area is entirely frost-free, plant the bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. In areas where frost is possible, set the bulbs with 5 to 6 inches of soil above them, followed by 5 to 6 inches of mulch. Water thoroughly after planting, but then water only when the top 2 inches of soil is dry.
After leaves appear, feed with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis generally bloom in March, April, and May. When flowering is complete, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage to continue growing. If any leaves turn yellow, cut them off.
From June to September, water the plants only during dry periods. In fall, apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The plants typically go dormant over winter.
Light
Amaryllis will grow in full sun to part shade conditions. Outdoors, bright shade is the best environment. Grown as potted plants indoors, they prefer morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon.
Soil
Outdoors, grow amaryllis bulbs in well-drained, fertile soil. When growing potted bulbs, use a good-quality, well-draining sandy loam potting mix.
Water
During the growing/ flowering period, water your amaryllis whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. Amaryllis requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing amaryllis into seasonal bloom requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule (see above).
Temperature and Humidity
Amaryllis are tropical plants that prefer warm temperatures. Outdoors, they are hardy to zone 8, and zone 7 gardeners can sometimes overwinter them in the garden if the ground is heavily mulched.
Fertilizer
During the growth period, feed your amaryllis with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. After flowering, withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the bulbs.
Varieties of Amaryllis
There are dozens of different amaryllis varieties, and the choice really depends on what flower color most appeals to you. Some recommended choices include:
'Samba': This variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings.
'Apple Blossom': This popular variety has blooms that mix pink and white, with green throats.
'Faro': This plant has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. The blooms are smaller and more delicate than with most varieties.
'Summertime': This plant has large 7-inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with greenish centers.
'Matterhorn': This is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats are yellow-green.
Pruning
When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can move the amaryllis outdoors for the summer, placing it in a part-shade location.
Propagating Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot them up to produce more plants. Give them a few seasons of growth before expecting flowers.
Common Pests and Diseases
Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealybugs, which can be treated with horticultural oil. Outdoor plants may be feasted upon by slugs and snails.
If your amaryllis doesn't bloom, it is often because it received no rest period after the last bloom, or because it is not receiving adequate light.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月07日
No potting soil? No problem. You don’t need soil to keep your home full of gorgeous houseplants. Meet Tillandsia kolbii, a variety of air plant.
These plants actual absorb nutrients and water through their leaves, not their roots. Because of this, they don’t have big root systems like the usual houseplant. These plants can be set wherever you’d like a little greenery, no pot needed. In fact, you can even hang them.
The Tillandsia kolbii has compact, fuzzy leaves that are a soft green color. With proper care, they may also produce beautiful, unique blooms in red, orange, or purple.
Botanical Name Tillandsia kolbii
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 1 to 3 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, orange, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, USA
Native Area Mexico and Guatemala
Tillandsia Kolbii Care
Caring for these plants is a breeze. Choose an area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow to keep your Tillandsia kolbii the happiest. The biggest thing they require is regular watering. How do you water a plant with no soil, you may ask? Regular misting is a wonderful way to keep your plants humid.
With proper attention and care, your Tillandsia kolbii may even bloom. These amazing little plants only bloom once in their lifetime, and the process may take years.
Once they are mature, they will produce pups. These are new little air plants that will pop out of the base of the mother plant. You can either leave these attached so they slowly grow a huge connected colony of air plants, or remove them to create more plants to spread around. Occasionally, mealybugs and scale may pose pest problems.
Light
Tillandsia kolbii, like most air plants, loves bright, indirect lighting. Despite being native to Mexico and Guatemala, too much sunshine can actually harm or burn the plant. Signs of too much sun include burn marks or red-tipped leaves. The red coloring is caused by stress.
Soil
The name “air plants” has become a popular way to describe plants belonging to the Tillandsia family because they don't need to be grown in soil.
Instead, just set your Tillandsia kolbii wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Whether that be your desk, atop a decorative piece of driftwood, or even in a hanging terrarium. In warm areas, these plants can even be grown outside and make a wonderful addition to your porch décor.
Water
Unlike most houseplants, the Tillandsia kolbii cannot be watered in the usual fashion. To give your air plant the water it needs, soak it in a bowl of water for 10 to 30 minutes every week or two. If your air plant is blooming, be sure to keep the delicate flower above the water during a soak to avoid damaging it.
Once you remove your air plant from the water, tip it upside-down to let the excess water drain from its foliage, and then return it to its display area. Let your air plant dry completely before the next soaking session. This will help avoid problems with rot.
Make sure to use clean water, like spring or filtered water. If you must use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate.
Temperature and Humidity
Tillandsia kolbii loves humidity. Regularly misting it will provide the humidity and moisture that it needs. In drier areas, you may need to mist your air plant daily. In more humid areas, you may only need to mist it every three days or so.
These plants also love warmer temperatures. However, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. Too much heat or cold can damage the plants. Placing them in a well-ventilated area with bright indirect sunlight is ideal.
Fertilizer
Because air plants do not have soil, you will need to fertilize during their monthly soak by adding it to the water. Using a fertilizer designed for air plants is best.
However, fertilizer is not a huge need for these little plants. They will grow wonderfully even without additional feeding. Too much fertilizer can even kill your Tillandsia kolbii.
Propagating Tillandsia kolbii
Propagating an air plant is fun and easy. In fact, your air plant will tell you when. These plants create what are known as “pups” once they are mature. These pups are new air plants. Once your Tillandsia kolbii is mature and producing pups, here is how to remove them.
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Locate the base of the pup.
3. Gently pop the pup off the mother plant. Be sure to grip the pup at its base leaves so no tearing occurs on its top leaves. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim the pup from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place it in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Before you know it, you’ll have a whole family of air plants. Don’t be discouraged if you do not see pups for some time, though. Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups. Patience is key.
These plants actual absorb nutrients and water through their leaves, not their roots. Because of this, they don’t have big root systems like the usual houseplant. These plants can be set wherever you’d like a little greenery, no pot needed. In fact, you can even hang them.
The Tillandsia kolbii has compact, fuzzy leaves that are a soft green color. With proper care, they may also produce beautiful, unique blooms in red, orange, or purple.
Botanical Name Tillandsia kolbii
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 1 to 3 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, orange, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, USA
Native Area Mexico and Guatemala
Tillandsia Kolbii Care
Caring for these plants is a breeze. Choose an area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow to keep your Tillandsia kolbii the happiest. The biggest thing they require is regular watering. How do you water a plant with no soil, you may ask? Regular misting is a wonderful way to keep your plants humid.
With proper attention and care, your Tillandsia kolbii may even bloom. These amazing little plants only bloom once in their lifetime, and the process may take years.
Once they are mature, they will produce pups. These are new little air plants that will pop out of the base of the mother plant. You can either leave these attached so they slowly grow a huge connected colony of air plants, or remove them to create more plants to spread around. Occasionally, mealybugs and scale may pose pest problems.
Light
Tillandsia kolbii, like most air plants, loves bright, indirect lighting. Despite being native to Mexico and Guatemala, too much sunshine can actually harm or burn the plant. Signs of too much sun include burn marks or red-tipped leaves. The red coloring is caused by stress.
Soil
The name “air plants” has become a popular way to describe plants belonging to the Tillandsia family because they don't need to be grown in soil.
Instead, just set your Tillandsia kolbii wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Whether that be your desk, atop a decorative piece of driftwood, or even in a hanging terrarium. In warm areas, these plants can even be grown outside and make a wonderful addition to your porch décor.
Water
Unlike most houseplants, the Tillandsia kolbii cannot be watered in the usual fashion. To give your air plant the water it needs, soak it in a bowl of water for 10 to 30 minutes every week or two. If your air plant is blooming, be sure to keep the delicate flower above the water during a soak to avoid damaging it.
Once you remove your air plant from the water, tip it upside-down to let the excess water drain from its foliage, and then return it to its display area. Let your air plant dry completely before the next soaking session. This will help avoid problems with rot.
Make sure to use clean water, like spring or filtered water. If you must use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate.
Temperature and Humidity
Tillandsia kolbii loves humidity. Regularly misting it will provide the humidity and moisture that it needs. In drier areas, you may need to mist your air plant daily. In more humid areas, you may only need to mist it every three days or so.
These plants also love warmer temperatures. However, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. Too much heat or cold can damage the plants. Placing them in a well-ventilated area with bright indirect sunlight is ideal.
Fertilizer
Because air plants do not have soil, you will need to fertilize during their monthly soak by adding it to the water. Using a fertilizer designed for air plants is best.
However, fertilizer is not a huge need for these little plants. They will grow wonderfully even without additional feeding. Too much fertilizer can even kill your Tillandsia kolbii.
Propagating Tillandsia kolbii
Propagating an air plant is fun and easy. In fact, your air plant will tell you when. These plants create what are known as “pups” once they are mature. These pups are new air plants. Once your Tillandsia kolbii is mature and producing pups, here is how to remove them.
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Locate the base of the pup.
3. Gently pop the pup off the mother plant. Be sure to grip the pup at its base leaves so no tearing occurs on its top leaves. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim the pup from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place it in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Before you know it, you’ll have a whole family of air plants. Don’t be discouraged if you do not see pups for some time, though. Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups. Patience is key.
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文章
莹723
2020年12月29日
• Botanical name: Hippeastrum 'Happy Garden'
• Common name: Amarylis
• Family: Amaryllidaceae
• Plant Type: House plant
Hippeastrum, or amaryllis, are most commonly grown as flowering houseplants, and are often given as gifts at Christmas. The bulbous plants hail from South Africa, and bear four to six large flowers on a tall, light green hollow stem.
It’s easy to force amaryllis bulbs to flower indoors over Christmas, and once they’ve finished flowering they can be stored and encouraged to flower the following year.
Hippeastrum ‘Happy Garden’ bears multiple heads of red flowers with a green-white centre. For best results, grow at room temperature, around 20°C in a well-lit room, ideally in full sun. Water sparingly at first, then increase the amount as the flower stems develop.
——How to grow Hippeastrum 'Happy Garden'
• Plant size
60cm height
25cm spread
• Aspect
South facing, west facing
• Sun exposure: Full sun
• Hardiness: Half hardy
• Soil type: Well drained / light / sandy
——Is Hippeastrum 'Happy Garden' poisonous?
Hippeastrum 'Happy Garden' can be toxic.
Toxic to:
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Dogs
——Plants that go well with Hippeastrum 'Happy Garden'
Hippeastrum ‘Red Lion’
Amarylis
Narcissus papyraceus
Paperwhite narcissus
Euphorbia pulcherrimum
Poinsettia
• Common name: Amarylis
• Family: Amaryllidaceae
• Plant Type: House plant
Hippeastrum, or amaryllis, are most commonly grown as flowering houseplants, and are often given as gifts at Christmas. The bulbous plants hail from South Africa, and bear four to six large flowers on a tall, light green hollow stem.
It’s easy to force amaryllis bulbs to flower indoors over Christmas, and once they’ve finished flowering they can be stored and encouraged to flower the following year.
Hippeastrum ‘Happy Garden’ bears multiple heads of red flowers with a green-white centre. For best results, grow at room temperature, around 20°C in a well-lit room, ideally in full sun. Water sparingly at first, then increase the amount as the flower stems develop.
——How to grow Hippeastrum 'Happy Garden'
• Plant size
60cm height
25cm spread
• Aspect
South facing, west facing
• Sun exposure: Full sun
• Hardiness: Half hardy
• Soil type: Well drained / light / sandy
——Is Hippeastrum 'Happy Garden' poisonous?
Hippeastrum 'Happy Garden' can be toxic.
Toxic to:
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Dogs
——Plants that go well with Hippeastrum 'Happy Garden'
Hippeastrum ‘Red Lion’
Amarylis
Narcissus papyraceus
Paperwhite narcissus
Euphorbia pulcherrimum
Poinsettia
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文章
莹723
2020年11月16日
Tender orchids are one of the most popular houseplants, but to keep them flourishing and flowering, it’s important to avoid some common mistakes.
Moth orchids are arguably the most popular and commonly grown orchids, found everywhere from garden centres to supermarkets. They enjoy a constant temperature of around 18°C, so are best grown indoors all year round.
Other orchids, like dendrobiums, cymbidiums and oncidiums need a minimum evening temperature of 10°C, so can be moved outside in summer to a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
1——Using the wrong pots
If you’re growing moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) you need to grow them in clear containers to allow the green roots to photosynthesise. Dendrobiums and cymbidiums don’t have photosynthetic roots, so can be grown in opaque pots. Vandas don’t need any pot at all, and can be grown in empty vases or suspended from wires.
2——Overpotting
Re-pot orchids in spring when the roots have filled the pot, this is usually carried out each year. Don’t let them remain in the same compost for over two years. Don’t overpot orchids as the compost won’t dry out fast enough, leading to root rot. Choose a pot that is just bigger and always use orchid compost.
3——Poor watering
Orchids roots are very susceptible to root rot, so it’s important that they’re never sitting in water. Water orchids by dunking the whole container in water, then draining, or from above and again allow to drain. Tepid water is ideal, tepid rainwater even better.
4——The wrong light
Most orchids, including phalaenopsis, dendrobiums and cymbidiums need indirect sunlight, as direct sunlight can scorch the leaves. They enjoy high humidity, so it’s worth buying a spray bottle to give them a good mist.
5——Not deadheading
Orchids are grown for their flowers, so it’s essential that they’re deadheaded correctly to encourage more flowers. Moth orchids flower multiple times on one stem, so cut off faded flowers just above the next flower bud. On other orchids you can cut the old flower stem right to the base.
6——Avoid terracotta pots
When potting and repotting orchids, it’s best to steer clear of terracotta pots – the orchid’s roots will fasten themselves to the surface, making it difficult to repot in future.
Moth orchids are arguably the most popular and commonly grown orchids, found everywhere from garden centres to supermarkets. They enjoy a constant temperature of around 18°C, so are best grown indoors all year round.
Other orchids, like dendrobiums, cymbidiums and oncidiums need a minimum evening temperature of 10°C, so can be moved outside in summer to a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
1——Using the wrong pots
If you’re growing moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) you need to grow them in clear containers to allow the green roots to photosynthesise. Dendrobiums and cymbidiums don’t have photosynthetic roots, so can be grown in opaque pots. Vandas don’t need any pot at all, and can be grown in empty vases or suspended from wires.
2——Overpotting
Re-pot orchids in spring when the roots have filled the pot, this is usually carried out each year. Don’t let them remain in the same compost for over two years. Don’t overpot orchids as the compost won’t dry out fast enough, leading to root rot. Choose a pot that is just bigger and always use orchid compost.
3——Poor watering
Orchids roots are very susceptible to root rot, so it’s important that they’re never sitting in water. Water orchids by dunking the whole container in water, then draining, or from above and again allow to drain. Tepid water is ideal, tepid rainwater even better.
4——The wrong light
Most orchids, including phalaenopsis, dendrobiums and cymbidiums need indirect sunlight, as direct sunlight can scorch the leaves. They enjoy high humidity, so it’s worth buying a spray bottle to give them a good mist.
5——Not deadheading
Orchids are grown for their flowers, so it’s essential that they’re deadheaded correctly to encourage more flowers. Moth orchids flower multiple times on one stem, so cut off faded flowers just above the next flower bud. On other orchids you can cut the old flower stem right to the base.
6——Avoid terracotta pots
When potting and repotting orchids, it’s best to steer clear of terracotta pots – the orchid’s roots will fasten themselves to the surface, making it difficult to repot in future.
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文章
ritau
2020年08月20日
Succulents are cute, versatile plants that can thrive both indoors and out! They make perfect indoor houseplants for small spaces, provided that you have a sunny windowsill. Get your set-up ready first by choosing a type of succulent, a well-drained container, and a well-draining soil. Then carefully pot your succulent in its new home as soon as possible to help it thrive. Care for your succulent by providing it with plenty of sunlight and a bit of water whenever the soil feels dry.
1. Choose a Zebra Plant or Gollum Jade succulent if you’re a beginner. While succulents are relatively easy to grow indoors, some varieties are easier than others! Stick to the Haworthia, Jade, or Gasteria varieties if you are unsure about what types to start with. All of these types are relatively drought-resistant and tend to grow well in indoor environments.
-If you’re in doubt about what sort of succulent to choose, pick one with green leaves such as agave or aloe. Succulents with green leaves tend to be the most forgiving and grow best indoors, compared to the purple, grey, or orange-leaved varieties.
-Zebra Plants have glossy green leaves with silver veins, creating a zebra-like appearance. They also have bright yellow flowers when they bloom.
-Gollum Jade succulents have green, tube-shaped leaves with red tips. Small white flowers form in winter.
2. Choose a pot slightly larger than your succulent, and make sure it has draining holes. You’ll find a wide variety of different terra-cotta pots available at your local gardening center! Pick a container that is just a bit bigger than the succulent to start with. Terra-cotta pots are ideal because they’re breathable, dry well, and draw water away from the soil. You can also choose a ceramic, metal, or plastic pot if you prefer, provided that it has good drainage.
-Holes for water drainage are essential, as succulents need to dry out their roots in order to survive. The roots will begin to rot otherwise.
-Succulents tend to grow as big as the pot they’re in.
-Glass pots don’t tend to work well for succulents, as there usually aren’t drainage holes.
3. Pick a soil with 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) particles to provide the best drainage. Succulents thrive in soils that drain well, so you need to pick a loosely compacted soil that will draw the water away. You can either choose a specialty succulent soil such as a cactus mix or make your own succulent-friendly soil. Simply mix 4 parts of regular gardening soil with 1 part of pumice, perlite, or turface to create a gritty, chunky mix.
-Crushed lava is also a good option.
4. Remove the succulent from the nursery pot within 24 hours of getting it. Succulents are often sold in small, plastic pots with very poorly drained soil. In order for your succulent to thrive, it needs to get out of that soil as soon as possible! Squeeze the plastic pot and gently pull the succulent upwards to remove it. If the succulent feels stuck, use scissors to cut the plastic pot away from the roots.
5. Suspend the succulent in the new pot as you fill it with soil. Succulent roots tend to be quite shallow and brittle, so do your best to protect these as you go about planting. Gently fill the sides of the pot with the soil, being careful not to damage the roots. Continue supporting the succulent until the pot is full and the succulent feels secure.
- If you're having trouble getting the soil around the roots, use your fingers to push and arrange the soil.
6. Space the succulents apart if you're planting more than 1 in a pot. Succulents don’t mind sharing a pot as long as each plant has breathing space. Leave a gap that's approximately 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) between each succulent to ensure that the air can flow well and that each plant gets plenty of light.
-Outdoor succulents are fine being clumped close together because there is greater light and air flow in outdoor environments.
-Succulents naturally grow in warm, arid climates, which is why they require good air circulation to survive.
7. Keep the succulent in a bright spot with at least 6 hours of sun per day. Generally, indoor succulents love bright light and will thrive. Place the succulent on a sunny south or west-facing windowsill to ensure that it gets plenty of sun. It's okay if the succulent doesn't get full sun all day long, provided that it gets a minimum of 6 hours.
-If you notice the leaves are getting scorched, try using a sheer curtain to provide the succulent with a bit of protection.
8. Get a pitcher, watering can, or pipette to water the succulent. Succulents do best when the water is delivered directly to the soil rather than drenched over the whole plant. Find a tool that works for the size of your succulent. For example, pitchers or watering cans are good for larger succulents, while pipettes are best for very young or small plants.
9. Give the succulent water every 1-3 weeks, whenever the soil feels dry. The easiest way to kill an indoor succulent is by overwatering! Feel the soil every 3-4 days to check the moisture level. Only water the succulent when the water feels completely dry and never when it’s damp or wet.
-How often you need to water your succulent depends on the variety, the climate, and the size of the plant. When you first get the plant, check the moisture level regularly until you work out what frequency is best.
10. Water the succulent until you see water exiting the drainage holes. Hold the pot over a sink while you water it and keep an eye on the water flow. Use the pitcher, watering can, or pipette to add water directly into the soil and stop the flow immediately when you see the water leaving the container.
1. Choose a Zebra Plant or Gollum Jade succulent if you’re a beginner. While succulents are relatively easy to grow indoors, some varieties are easier than others! Stick to the Haworthia, Jade, or Gasteria varieties if you are unsure about what types to start with. All of these types are relatively drought-resistant and tend to grow well in indoor environments.
-If you’re in doubt about what sort of succulent to choose, pick one with green leaves such as agave or aloe. Succulents with green leaves tend to be the most forgiving and grow best indoors, compared to the purple, grey, or orange-leaved varieties.
-Zebra Plants have glossy green leaves with silver veins, creating a zebra-like appearance. They also have bright yellow flowers when they bloom.
-Gollum Jade succulents have green, tube-shaped leaves with red tips. Small white flowers form in winter.
2. Choose a pot slightly larger than your succulent, and make sure it has draining holes. You’ll find a wide variety of different terra-cotta pots available at your local gardening center! Pick a container that is just a bit bigger than the succulent to start with. Terra-cotta pots are ideal because they’re breathable, dry well, and draw water away from the soil. You can also choose a ceramic, metal, or plastic pot if you prefer, provided that it has good drainage.
-Holes for water drainage are essential, as succulents need to dry out their roots in order to survive. The roots will begin to rot otherwise.
-Succulents tend to grow as big as the pot they’re in.
-Glass pots don’t tend to work well for succulents, as there usually aren’t drainage holes.
3. Pick a soil with 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) particles to provide the best drainage. Succulents thrive in soils that drain well, so you need to pick a loosely compacted soil that will draw the water away. You can either choose a specialty succulent soil such as a cactus mix or make your own succulent-friendly soil. Simply mix 4 parts of regular gardening soil with 1 part of pumice, perlite, or turface to create a gritty, chunky mix.
-Crushed lava is also a good option.
4. Remove the succulent from the nursery pot within 24 hours of getting it. Succulents are often sold in small, plastic pots with very poorly drained soil. In order for your succulent to thrive, it needs to get out of that soil as soon as possible! Squeeze the plastic pot and gently pull the succulent upwards to remove it. If the succulent feels stuck, use scissors to cut the plastic pot away from the roots.
5. Suspend the succulent in the new pot as you fill it with soil. Succulent roots tend to be quite shallow and brittle, so do your best to protect these as you go about planting. Gently fill the sides of the pot with the soil, being careful not to damage the roots. Continue supporting the succulent until the pot is full and the succulent feels secure.
- If you're having trouble getting the soil around the roots, use your fingers to push and arrange the soil.
6. Space the succulents apart if you're planting more than 1 in a pot. Succulents don’t mind sharing a pot as long as each plant has breathing space. Leave a gap that's approximately 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) between each succulent to ensure that the air can flow well and that each plant gets plenty of light.
-Outdoor succulents are fine being clumped close together because there is greater light and air flow in outdoor environments.
-Succulents naturally grow in warm, arid climates, which is why they require good air circulation to survive.
7. Keep the succulent in a bright spot with at least 6 hours of sun per day. Generally, indoor succulents love bright light and will thrive. Place the succulent on a sunny south or west-facing windowsill to ensure that it gets plenty of sun. It's okay if the succulent doesn't get full sun all day long, provided that it gets a minimum of 6 hours.
-If you notice the leaves are getting scorched, try using a sheer curtain to provide the succulent with a bit of protection.
8. Get a pitcher, watering can, or pipette to water the succulent. Succulents do best when the water is delivered directly to the soil rather than drenched over the whole plant. Find a tool that works for the size of your succulent. For example, pitchers or watering cans are good for larger succulents, while pipettes are best for very young or small plants.
9. Give the succulent water every 1-3 weeks, whenever the soil feels dry. The easiest way to kill an indoor succulent is by overwatering! Feel the soil every 3-4 days to check the moisture level. Only water the succulent when the water feels completely dry and never when it’s damp or wet.
-How often you need to water your succulent depends on the variety, the climate, and the size of the plant. When you first get the plant, check the moisture level regularly until you work out what frequency is best.
10. Water the succulent until you see water exiting the drainage holes. Hold the pot over a sink while you water it and keep an eye on the water flow. Use the pitcher, watering can, or pipette to add water directly into the soil and stop the flow immediately when you see the water leaving the container.
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文章
ritau
2020年07月19日
Cacti are typically desert-dwelling plants that thrive in dry and hot conditions, but these plants also make excellent indoor houseplants. Cacti are quite low-maintenance and need less care than many other houseplants, making them an ideal plant for new gardeners and a great housewarming gift. The secrets to growing healthy cacti indoors include providing them with plenty of sunlight, not overwatering, and using the right soil.
1. Take a cutting from a healthy cactus. You can grow new cacti from a pup that shoots off of a healthy mother plant. Choose a pup that’s plump, unblemished, and healthy. Gently cut or break off an entire pup from the plant. You can also buy cacti at local nurseries, home stores, and garden centers.
2. Let the wound heal. Transfer the cutting to a sunny windowsill. Lay the cutting down flat and leave it for about two days. This will give the wound time to form a callous. If you don’t let the wound heal before planting, the cutting will likely rot.
3. Select a pot for the cactus. The most important thing to remember when choosing a pot for a cactus is drainage. Find a pot with drainage holes in the bottom that will allow excess water to drain out. Cacti also do well in smaller pots, so choose a pot that’s about twice the size of the plant. You can use clay or plastic pots for cacti. Plastic pots are lighter and cheaper, but heavier clay pots are better for large or top-heavy plants.
4. Fill the pot with a cactus-specific potting soil. Cacti need soil that drains very quickly, so choose a medium that’s specific for these types of plants. For even better drainage, mix two parts of the cactus potting soil with one part lava rock pebbles or pearlite.Cacti that sit in wet soil are prone to fungal and bacterial growth.
5. Plant the cutting in the soil. Place the stem or leaf cutting callous-down in the potting soil. Push the cutting in just deep enough so that it will stand up on its own. Use your hands to gently firm the soil around the cutting to stabilize it.
6. Mist the soil. Moisten the soil to provide the cactus with extra water, but don’t soak the soil. Until roots and new growth start to form, only mist the cutting lightly when the soil feels dry. Otherwise, the cutting may rot.
7. Keep the cutting in a bright location. Transfer the cutting to a windowsill or other area that gets lots of bright but indirect sunlight. Too much direct sun can damage a new cutting. Leave the cutting in this location for a month or two, until new growth starts to appear.
1. Take a cutting from a healthy cactus. You can grow new cacti from a pup that shoots off of a healthy mother plant. Choose a pup that’s plump, unblemished, and healthy. Gently cut or break off an entire pup from the plant. You can also buy cacti at local nurseries, home stores, and garden centers.
2. Let the wound heal. Transfer the cutting to a sunny windowsill. Lay the cutting down flat and leave it for about two days. This will give the wound time to form a callous. If you don’t let the wound heal before planting, the cutting will likely rot.
3. Select a pot for the cactus. The most important thing to remember when choosing a pot for a cactus is drainage. Find a pot with drainage holes in the bottom that will allow excess water to drain out. Cacti also do well in smaller pots, so choose a pot that’s about twice the size of the plant. You can use clay or plastic pots for cacti. Plastic pots are lighter and cheaper, but heavier clay pots are better for large or top-heavy plants.
4. Fill the pot with a cactus-specific potting soil. Cacti need soil that drains very quickly, so choose a medium that’s specific for these types of plants. For even better drainage, mix two parts of the cactus potting soil with one part lava rock pebbles or pearlite.Cacti that sit in wet soil are prone to fungal and bacterial growth.
5. Plant the cutting in the soil. Place the stem or leaf cutting callous-down in the potting soil. Push the cutting in just deep enough so that it will stand up on its own. Use your hands to gently firm the soil around the cutting to stabilize it.
6. Mist the soil. Moisten the soil to provide the cactus with extra water, but don’t soak the soil. Until roots and new growth start to form, only mist the cutting lightly when the soil feels dry. Otherwise, the cutting may rot.
7. Keep the cutting in a bright location. Transfer the cutting to a windowsill or other area that gets lots of bright but indirect sunlight. Too much direct sun can damage a new cutting. Leave the cutting in this location for a month or two, until new growth starts to appear.
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文章
ritau
2020年04月25日
1. Choose houseplants suited for your available light conditions.
The first step in preventing insects actually arises when you choose your plants. Make sure each houseplant is well suited to the amount of light it will receive once in position. Plants in unfavorable light conditions are subjected to stress, which makes them more susceptible to insect infestation.
2. Make sure your houseplants are potted in sterile soil.
While bacteria, fungus, and insects are a vital component of outdoor soil health, houseplants are better planted in store bought potting mix, which will generally be sterile. Using outdoor garden soil can introduce insect larvae into your houseplants.
3. Clean your houseplants regularly.
Dust buildup on your houseplant leaves often contains organic compounds (like skin cells or pet hair) that insects can feed on. Furthermore, insects like mites thrive in thick layers of dust and will be less likely to infest a clean plant.
4. Inspect your plants regularly for insect damage.
This may sound obvious, but in fact most insect infestations can be mitigated if you are monitoring your houseplants closely enough to catch the early signs. Discolored, speckled, mottled, and chewed up leaves can indicate insect activity. Of course, you may also be able to see the insects themselves as well as their eggs, larvae, or cast off skins.
5. Control existing insect infestations as well as possible. Even if you take the precautionary steps above, you may still find yourself faced with insects in your houseplants. There are several method you can use to kill and remove insects.
*Sticky traps can be used to control infestations of flying insects such as fruit flies, gnats, and winged aphids. These traps are usually yellow in appearance and can be hung near the infested houseplant.
*Pruning can help control isolated insect infestations. If you notice that most of the insects are concentrated on a few leaves of a plant, prune these leaves away and throw them out.
*Wash small insects away with soapy water. Small insects like aphids and mealybugs can be removed by rubbing the plant's leaves with a cloth moistened with soapy water.
6. Know when to give up on an infested houseplant.
The unfortunate truth is that when a houseplant becomes badly infested with insects, it is near impossible to remove the insects and return the plant to health. In bad cases, throw the entire plant away before the insects spread to other houseplants in your home.via wikihow
The first step in preventing insects actually arises when you choose your plants. Make sure each houseplant is well suited to the amount of light it will receive once in position. Plants in unfavorable light conditions are subjected to stress, which makes them more susceptible to insect infestation.
2. Make sure your houseplants are potted in sterile soil.
While bacteria, fungus, and insects are a vital component of outdoor soil health, houseplants are better planted in store bought potting mix, which will generally be sterile. Using outdoor garden soil can introduce insect larvae into your houseplants.
3. Clean your houseplants regularly.
Dust buildup on your houseplant leaves often contains organic compounds (like skin cells or pet hair) that insects can feed on. Furthermore, insects like mites thrive in thick layers of dust and will be less likely to infest a clean plant.
4. Inspect your plants regularly for insect damage.
This may sound obvious, but in fact most insect infestations can be mitigated if you are monitoring your houseplants closely enough to catch the early signs. Discolored, speckled, mottled, and chewed up leaves can indicate insect activity. Of course, you may also be able to see the insects themselves as well as their eggs, larvae, or cast off skins.
5. Control existing insect infestations as well as possible. Even if you take the precautionary steps above, you may still find yourself faced with insects in your houseplants. There are several method you can use to kill and remove insects.
*Sticky traps can be used to control infestations of flying insects such as fruit flies, gnats, and winged aphids. These traps are usually yellow in appearance and can be hung near the infested houseplant.
*Pruning can help control isolated insect infestations. If you notice that most of the insects are concentrated on a few leaves of a plant, prune these leaves away and throw them out.
*Wash small insects away with soapy water. Small insects like aphids and mealybugs can be removed by rubbing the plant's leaves with a cloth moistened with soapy water.
6. Know when to give up on an infested houseplant.
The unfortunate truth is that when a houseplant becomes badly infested with insects, it is near impossible to remove the insects and return the plant to health. In bad cases, throw the entire plant away before the insects spread to other houseplants in your home.via wikihow
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Hindu rope plants (Hoya carnosa "Krinkle Kurl") earned their common name with their 12- to 15-inch-long stems, which have a pendulous habit, like a length of rope. Usually grown as houseplants, they will also survive outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11. Hindu rope plants look best and live longer when provided with regular care year-round, but those care requirements vary according to the season.
Seasonal Watering
Hindu rope plants tolerate dry soil well, but they will look best if you water them regularly in summer. Water deeply but infrequently during the summer, saturating the soil and letting it dry out in the top one-third of the pot, before watering again. Hindu rope plants go dormant in winter and require far less water. Water every two to three weeks, wetting just the top 1/2 inch of soil with cool water. Always use pots with drainage holes.
Careful Fertilizing
Hindu rope plants are light feeders and will survive without fertilizer if planted in suitably rich, fast-draining growing medium. Because they seldom require repotting and may grow in the same soil for many years, they may need a boost of supplemental nutrients to help keep them growing. Use a balanced fertilizer with an NPK number of 15-15-15 or a low-potassium blooming fertilizer such as 7-9-5. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of filtered water, or according to the label's rate, then water once a month with the solution from midspring until late summer. Do not fertilize in fall or winter.
Pruning and Grooming
Regular pruning during the growing season will help improve the appearance of Hindu rope plants, but it can also cause major problems if not done correctly. Sanitize pruning shears before use to prevent infections. Soak them in household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse them in hot water and wipe them dry. Prune at any time to remove dead, damaged or unwanted growth, or prune flowering stems after the flowers fade. Avoid nicking or cutting the waxy flower clusters -- called peduncles -- because they will continue to produce flowers year after year but will die back if damaged. Also, be aware that Hindu rope plant leaks a latexlike sap when cut, so wear protective gloves and move the plant to prune it if it's on prized furniture.
Problems and Solutions
With good care, Hindu wax plants are seldom troubled by serious issues. Mealybugs are one notable exception and may cause serious damage in high numbers. You'll likely see the cottony masses underneath the leaves, but you might see the individual insects, less than 1/10 inch long, scuttling along the stems. Treat them with a soap solution. Dissolve 2 to 5 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of tap water and put the solution in a spray bottle. Spray the solution liberally on the undersides of the leaves on a cool, overcast day. Repeat the application every two weeks until the problem subsides.
Special Considerations
Tougher than they look, Hindu rope plants adapt to a variety of growing conditions and will survive despite drought, low humidity and neglect, but they may stop blooming regularly. The most common cause of failed blooming is insufficient light. Keep the plants where they will get bright light with direct sun in the morning. Eastern and western exposure is best, although they will also tolerate southern exposure with light shade. Move the plant, if necessary, and watch for new flowers the following spring.
Seasonal Watering
Hindu rope plants tolerate dry soil well, but they will look best if you water them regularly in summer. Water deeply but infrequently during the summer, saturating the soil and letting it dry out in the top one-third of the pot, before watering again. Hindu rope plants go dormant in winter and require far less water. Water every two to three weeks, wetting just the top 1/2 inch of soil with cool water. Always use pots with drainage holes.
Careful Fertilizing
Hindu rope plants are light feeders and will survive without fertilizer if planted in suitably rich, fast-draining growing medium. Because they seldom require repotting and may grow in the same soil for many years, they may need a boost of supplemental nutrients to help keep them growing. Use a balanced fertilizer with an NPK number of 15-15-15 or a low-potassium blooming fertilizer such as 7-9-5. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of filtered water, or according to the label's rate, then water once a month with the solution from midspring until late summer. Do not fertilize in fall or winter.
Pruning and Grooming
Regular pruning during the growing season will help improve the appearance of Hindu rope plants, but it can also cause major problems if not done correctly. Sanitize pruning shears before use to prevent infections. Soak them in household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse them in hot water and wipe them dry. Prune at any time to remove dead, damaged or unwanted growth, or prune flowering stems after the flowers fade. Avoid nicking or cutting the waxy flower clusters -- called peduncles -- because they will continue to produce flowers year after year but will die back if damaged. Also, be aware that Hindu rope plant leaks a latexlike sap when cut, so wear protective gloves and move the plant to prune it if it's on prized furniture.
Problems and Solutions
With good care, Hindu wax plants are seldom troubled by serious issues. Mealybugs are one notable exception and may cause serious damage in high numbers. You'll likely see the cottony masses underneath the leaves, but you might see the individual insects, less than 1/10 inch long, scuttling along the stems. Treat them with a soap solution. Dissolve 2 to 5 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of tap water and put the solution in a spray bottle. Spray the solution liberally on the undersides of the leaves on a cool, overcast day. Repeat the application every two weeks until the problem subsides.
Special Considerations
Tougher than they look, Hindu rope plants adapt to a variety of growing conditions and will survive despite drought, low humidity and neglect, but they may stop blooming regularly. The most common cause of failed blooming is insufficient light. Keep the plants where they will get bright light with direct sun in the morning. Eastern and western exposure is best, although they will also tolerate southern exposure with light shade. Move the plant, if necessary, and watch for new flowers the following spring.
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