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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Dummer. ゛☀
The weeping mulberry is also known by its botanical name of Morus alba. At one time it was used to feed valuable silkworms, which love to munch on mulberry leaves, but that is no longer the case. So what is a weeping mulberry? The following article contains information on planting and growing a weeping mulberry.
What is a Weeping Mulberry? Native to China, the mulberrywas introduced to provide food for the thriving silkworm trade. Because the tree is unfussy and will tolerate almost any soil and even a fair amount of neglect, it soon became naturalized and considered to be more of a weed. Today’s new cultivars, from the weeping varieties to hybrid dwarf varieties to fruitless types have brought the tree back into vogue again. This fast-growing tree (up to 10 feet a season) is hardy in USDA zones 5-8. The weeping mulberry has a unique twisted shape and multiple weeping branches and is very ornamental. Some types will attain a height of 15 feet and a spread of between 8-15 feet. The leaves of the tree are undivided or lobed, dark green and 2-7 inches long.
About Growing Weeping Mulberry Trees There are two major types to choose from when planting a weeping mulberry tree. A male tree, Morus alba ‘Chaparral,’ has shiny green leaves and attains a height of between 10-15 feet. A female tree, M. alba ‘Pendula,’ bears fruit and gets to about 6-8 feet in height.
Weeping Mulberry Fruit With regards to mulberry fruit, are weeping mulberry berries edible? Yes, indeed. Weeping mulberry fruit is sweet and succulent. They can be made into desserts, jams, or jellies, although it is so addictive eaten fresh it might be hard to pick enough for those goodies before eating them all. Berries can be black, yet not fully ripe. Wait until they are at full size and then give them a few more days when they will be at peak sweetness. To pick the fruit, surround the tree with a tarp or old sheet and then knock the branches or trunk of the tree. This should be sufficient to loosen any ripe berries, which can then be collected from the tarp. Don’t delay picking the berries or the birds will beat you to it.
Weeping Mulberry Tree Care As mentioned, weeping mulberries are tolerant of the conditions they are growing in. They should be planted in well-drained soil in full to partial sun. For the first few years, it will need to be on a regular watering schedule but, once established, the tree becomes fairly drought tolerant. If you wish to retard the vigorous growth of a weeping mulberry, cut its summer growth back by half in July. This will keep the tree a shorter height but encourage it to bush out, which also makes it easier to pick berries.
Be aware that the tree can be extremely messy due to dropping fruit. Mulberries also have strong surface roots that, when planted near a sidewalk or drive, may undermine the surface. Lawn mowing can also be a challenge due to the surface roots. Weeping mulberries have little to no pest or disease issues so continued weeping mulberry tree care is minimal.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Dummer. ゛☀
The problem with growing mulberry trees is the berries. They create a mess on the ground beneath the trees and stain everything they come in contact with. In addition, the birds that eat the berries disburse the seeds, and the species has become invasive in the wild. Fruitless mulberry trees (Morus alba ‘Fruitless’) are just as appealing as the fruited varieties, but without the mess or the invasive potential. So what is a fruitless mulberry tree? A fruitless mulberry tree is an excellent choice for a medium to large shade tree in home landscapes. It grows 20 to 60 feet tall with a dense canopy as much as 45 feet wide. This handsome tree has dark green foliage in summer which turns yellow before it drops in fall.
How to Grow a Fruitless Mulberry Tree When growing fruitless mulberry trees, you should plant the trees in full sun or partial shade. You’ll also want to plant the trees at least 6 feet from sidewalks, driveways and foundations because their strong roots can lift and crack cement and pavement. The trees tolerate almost any type of soil, but do best in a well-drained, loamy soil. Trees benefit from staking the first year. Young trees tend to be top-heavy and the trunks snap easily in strong winds. If the stake is left in place more than a year, it may do more harm than good.
Fruitless Mulberry Care Growing fruitless mulberry trees is easy because the trees require very little care. Once established it withstands both drought and extended flooding, but it will grow faster if watered during dry spells. The tree doesn’t need fertilizer until its second year. A 2-inch layer of compost in spring is ideal. Spread the compost under the canopy and a few feet beyond it. If you want to use a granular fertilizer instead, choose one with a ratio of about 3:1:1.
Pruning Fruitless Mulberry Pruning fruitless mulberry trees is another factor of fruitless mulberry care. Mature trees seldom need pruning, but you may need to shape young trees and remove or shorten branches that droop too close to the ground. The best time to prune mulberries is in winter after the leaves have dropped. Remove broken or diseased branches any time of year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Dummer. ゛☀
Silk tree mimosa (Albizia julibrissin) growing can be a rewarding treat once the silky blooms and fringe-like foliage grace the landscape. So what is a silk tree? Keep reading to learn more.
What is a Silk Tree? Mimosa trees are a member of the Fabaceae family and are a popular ornamental tree in the home landscape. Also known as silk trees and Albizia silk trees, these beauties have a lovely feathery habit with wispy pink to rose aromatic flowers. Ideal for USDA planting zones 6 through 9, this tree provides light shade and adds a lovely burst of color amongst other deciduous or evergreen trees, or when used as a specimen. The fringed foliage ranges from bright green to chocolate brown, depending on the variety.
How to Grow a Silk Tree Silk tree mimosa growing is really quite easy. Albizia silk trees need a little space to accommodate their arching habit, so be sure to plan for this accordingly when planting. Roots like to spread out as well, so it is wise not to plant this tree close to a sidewalk or other cement patio where it could cause disruption. Some people also prefer to locate mimosa trees away from gathering areas because flower and pod shed can be kind of messy. Mature trees open into a lovely “V” shape and reach about 30 feet high. Mimosa thrives in full sun and is not picky about soil type. The tree is easy to start from a seed pod or a young tree. Anyone who has a mimosa would be happy to share seed pods with you.
Silk Tree Care Silk trees need just enough water to keep moist; they will even tolerate a short period of drought. A 2-inch layer of mulch will help to protect the tree and keep the soil moist. If you are getting regular rainfall, it is not necessary to water your tree. Fertilize your tree with compost or organic fertilizer in early spring before the leaves appear. Prune dead branches to keep the tree healthy. Keep an eye out for webworms, which seem to be attracted to this tree. In some regions, canker is a problem. If your tree develops canker, it is necessary to remove infected branches.
Container Growing Mimosa also makes an excellent container plant. Provide a large container with plenty of loamy soil and excellent drainage. Smaller chocolate mimosa trees make excellent container specimens. Throw in some trailing plants for a beautiful patio or deck display. Water when dry and trim dead branches as needed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Dummer. ゛☀
You’ve seen mimosa trees, common and familiar landscape trees especially in the South. They have a tropical look, with slender leaves that make you think of ferns, and frothy pink blossoms in early summer. If your garden could use a touch of the tropics or a little Asian flair, consider growing chocolate mimosa (Albizia julibrissin ‘Summer Chocolate’). So what is a chocolate mimosa? This mimosa variety has an umbrella-shaped canopy with leaves that change from green to dark red, and by late summer they are reddish-bronze or chocolaty brown.
Growing Chocolate Mimosa Not only is the deep chocolate hue of the foliage unusual and elegant, but it also makes care of chocolate mimosa trees easier. The darker foliage makes the tree both accepting of heat and drought tolerant, according to chocolate mimosa information. Deer dislike the odor of the leaves, so you don’t have to worry about these animals munching up your tree. You’ll appreciate the unusual leaf color but you’ll also love the 1-to-2 inch showy flowers, which is the showiest feature of chocolate mimosas that bloom in late summer. The sweet fragrance is lovely, and the flowers attract bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. In time, the pink powder puff flowers develop into long seed pods that look like beans and will decorate the tree all winter.
These lovely trees are perfect for your garden, but you may think twice before planting chocolate mimosa trees since their other mimosa counterparts have escaped cultivation in many areas, to the point of becoming invasive. Mimosas spread from seeds and form dense stands that shade and out compete valuable native plants. They can do so much damage to wild areas that the Plant Conservation Alliance has added them to their “Least Wanted” list. That being said, research suggests that growing a chocolate mimosa doesn’t carry the same risks as growing the species tree does. That’s because the ‘Summer Chocolate’ isn’t invasive. It produces far fewer seeds. Nonetheless, you should still contact your cooperative extension agent to find out more about the status of summer chocolate mimosa in your area, just to be safe.
Care of Chocolate Mimosa The care of chocolate mimosa is easy. The plants are rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. You’ll be amazed at how quickly these trees grow. A chocolate mimosa tree in landscapes should get to 20 feet tall and 20 feet wide. This is about half the size of the green species tree, though. Give the tree a location with full sun and moist but well-drained soil. A chocolate mimosa tree in landscapes also tolerates alkaline soil and salty soil. The trees need water until their roots are established, but then become extremely drought tolerant. Apply the water slowly, allowing the moisture to sink deep into the soil to encourage a deep root system. Once established, the tree only needs occasional watering in the absence of rain.
Fertilize annually in spring with a complete and balanced fertilizer. Chocolate mimosa trees almost never need pruning. You can, however, make removal of the seed pods a part of your chocolate mimosa tree care routine, if desired. The seed pods are about 6 inches long and straw-colored, resembling beans, and each pod contains several bean-like seeds. These mature in late summer or early fall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Dummer. ゛☀
Don’t let the fluffy flowers and lacy foliage fool you. Mimosa trees may not be the perfect ornamental for your garden. If you read up on mimosa tree facts before you plant, you will learn that mimosa is a short-lived tree with weak wood. Moreover, these trees are invasive; they readily escape cultivation and establish in clumps of mimosa tree weeds in disturbed roadside areas, shading out native species. Read on for information on mimosa tree management and control of mimosa trees.
Mimosa Tree Facts Nobody can deny that the pink pompom flowers of the mimosa tree are attractive. They appear in late spring and early summer on the tips of the small tree’s spreading branches. The tree rarely grows above 40 feet, and its branches grow horizontally on the upper section of the trunk. As it matures, it looks a little like a yard parasol. The mimosa was imported as an ornamental from Asia and attracts gardeners with its fragrant and pretty blossoms. However, mimosa tree management proved more difficult than expected.
The trees produce thousands of seeds annually in dangling seed pods. Since the seeds require scarification, they can stay in the soil for many years and remain viable. They are spread by birds and other wildlife into nature where they colonize any disturbed areas. Seedlings are often weak and weedy, sometimes termed mimosa tree weeds. Mimosa also propagates vegetatively. The tree produces sprouts around it that can grow into unsightly clumps, difficult to eradicate. Indeed, control of mimosa tree is very difficult once it colonizes property.
It is difficult to get rid of a mimosa tree once it has spread, since the seedlings adapt to most soils. Moreover, the plants are not affected at all by hot or dry weather and don’t mind root disturbance. Once you remove native vegetation, the mimosa seeds will leap in to colonize the area. The one thing force of nature effective to get rid of mimosa tree seedlings is cold. One good frost takes them out and that is why one rarely sees mimosa tree weeds or trees crowding along the roadsides in the North.
How to Get Rid of Mimosa Trees The best way to control mimosa trees is by not planting one in your yard or, if you’ve already planted one, removing it before it seeds. Absent that, you can try to remove it using a variety of mechanical controls. Cutting the trees off at ground level certainly acts to get rid of mimosa trees, but the trunks will respout. Repeated cutting of spouts or use of an herbicide is required to stop the sprouts. Girdling is also an effective way to get rid of mimosa trees. Cut off a strip of bark all around the tree about six inches above the soil. Make the cut deep. This will kill the top of the tree, but the same resprout problem remains.
You can also take control of mimosa trees by spraying the leaves with a solution of 2% glyphosate or triclopyr plus a 0.25% non-ionic surfactant. Both of these products are systemic herbicides that travel through a plant all the way to the roots. Use triclopyr if you mean to conserve other plants in the area.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sometimes a certain plant just doesn’t grow right where it’s locate and needs to be moved. Other times, a plant may quickly outgrow a landscape. Either way, moving a plant from one site to another can cause stress, or even death, if not done properly. Fast growing mimosa trees can quickly outgrow an area. While the average 25-foot height of one mimosa tree doesn’t sound that hard to fit in to the landscape, mimosa trees seed profusely, and one mimosa tree can quickly turn in to a stand of mimosa trees. Continue reading to learn about properly moving mimosa trees and when to transplant a mimosa tree.
Mimosa Tree Transplanting Many times, mimosa trees are planted as specimen plants in landscape beds near a home or patio. Their sweet smelling flowers bloom in midsummer and then form into long seed pods that disperse seeds everywhere. As we get busy with other things in the garden in late summer and fall, it’s easy to overlook the seeding habits of mimosa until the following year when seedlings pop up all over. With its adaptation to almost any soil type, tolerance of full sun to part shade and quick growth rate, your one specimen mimosa can quickly turn into a thicket of mimosa. While this may be fine for a windbreak or privacy screen, a dense stand of mimosa can take over a small landscape bed. In time, you may find yourself needing to move mimosa trees to a location where they can be allowed to grow and seed densely.
When to Transplant a Mimosa Tree Timing is important when transplanting a mimosa tree. Like any tree, mimosa trees are easier to transplant the younger they are. A small sapling will have a much greater survival rate if moved than an older more established tree. Sometimes, it is necessary to move a bigger tree, though. Either way, safely transplanting a mimosa tree will take a little prep work. Established trees should be transplanted in late fall to early winter after all leaves have fallen off and gone dormant. Small saplings can be dug up in spring and potted to give away to friends or family, or until a proper site is selected.
How to Transplant Mimosa Trees First, select the new site for the mimosa. This area should have well-draining soil and be full sun to part shade. Pre-dig the hole in which the mimosa will be going. The hole should be twice as wide as the root ball you will be placing in it, but no deeper than the tree is presently growing. Planting any tree too deeply can cause root girdling and improper root development. Oftentimes, arborists will recommend digging a hole slightly deeper than the plants root ball, but then creating a small mound of soil in the center for the root ball to sit upon so that the tree itself is not planted any deeper than it should be, but the horizontal roots are encouraged to spread out and down into the deeper area of the hole.
Once your site and planting hole are prepared, place a wheelbarrow filled halfway with water and a transplanting fertilizer, like Root & Grow, next to the mimosa tree you are digging up. Depending on the size of the tree you are moving, with a clean, sharp spade, start digging about a foot to two out from the base of the tree. An older, larger tree will have a larger root system and will need more of these roots intact to survive the move. A clean, sharp spade will help easy cut through these roots while not damaging them too badly and reduce transplant shock. Established mimosa trees can have long, thick taproots, so it may be necessary to dig down around the tree up to 2 feet to get a good portion of this taproot.
After digging up the mimosa tree, place it in the so you can easily move the tree to its new location in the landscape. Place the mimosa tree in the prepared, new hole. Be sure that it will not be planted any deeper than it previously was going. Add soil under the root ball, if necessary, to raise it. Fill the area around the roots with soil, gently tamping it down to prevent air pockets. Once the hole is refilled with soil, dump any leftover water and rooting hormone in the wheelbarrow onto the root zone.
It will be necessary to water your newly transplanted mimosa tree daily for the first week. Do not use any fertilizer until spring. After the first week, you can water the tree twice a week for the next two weeks. Then drop down to a good, deep watering once per week. When watering any newly planted tree, you should give it about a twenty minute, slow trickle of water for deep watering. Once a mimosa tree is established, they can tolerate drought and will require very little watering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Dummer. ゛☀
The tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) is a small evergreen that likes warm climes. It is attractive and fragrant, with a definitely exotic look. Herbalists swear by tea tree oil, made from its foliage. For more information on melaleuca tea trees, including tips on growing a tea tree, read on.
About Melaleuca Tea Trees Tea trees are native to the warmer regions of Australia where they grow wild in tropical and subtropical swampy areas. You’ll find many different types of tea trees, each with its own dramatic variations in needle and blossom shades. Melaleuca tea trees attract attention in your garden. Tea tree information suggests that one of the most attractive features is the trunk, with its gorgeous, papery bark. If you are thinking of growing a tea tree, note that the tree can get 20 feet tall. It spreads out too, to 10 or 15 feet wide. Be sure to site it with enough room to grow, or else keep the pruners handy.
Growing a Tea Tree If you live where the weather is warm, you can plant melaleuca tea trees in your garden. Otherwise, growing a tea tree in a container is a valid alternative. You can position it in outdoor sun during summer, then move it inside for winter. When you are growing a tea tree, you may be surprised by how fast your tree develops. Tea tree information tells us that Melaleuca tea trees in warm locations can grow several feet a season. Tea trees in cooler regions won’t grow as fast. Your tea tree won’t flower until it has been around for a few years. But when it does, you’ll notice. The blossoms are frothy, and you’ll find a variety of colors available.
How to Care for Tea Trees When you are learning how to care for tea trees, think warmth. Don’t plant Melaleuca tea trees outside in your garden unless you live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 8 or above. The trees need sun to thrive, whether they are planted indoors or out. They will not be happy in shade. As far as soil goes, make sure it drains easily. The plants just won’t thrive if drainage is limited. Grow them in acidic or neutral soil that is moist. Speaking of…don’t forget irrigation. Even outdoor plants need watering during dry spells. For those growing a tea tree in a container, regular irrigation is essential. Tea trees are not one of those potted plants that like drying out between drinks. Keep that soil a bit moist at all times.
Melaleuca Tea Tree Uses Melaleuca tea tree uses run from ornamental to medicinal. The small trees are lovely additions to a warm-climate garden and also make a lovely potted plant. The trees also have medicinal uses. Melaleuca tea tree uses center around the essential oil obtained from the leaves and twigs. Herbalists consider tea tree oil an important natural antiseptic.
The oil can be used for treating stings, burns, wounds and skin infections. It is said to stimulate the immune system and serves as an effective treatment against both bacterial and fungal infections. The essential oil is also used in aromatherapy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Dummer. ゛☀
There are many kinds of maple tree diseases, but the ones that people are most commonly concerned with affect the trunk and bark of maple trees. This is because bark diseases of maple trees are very visible to a tree’s owner and are often bring about dramatic changes to the tree. Below you will find a list of diseases that affect maple trunk and bark.
Maple Tree Bark Diseases and Damage Canker Fungus Maple Tree Bark Disease Several different kinds of fungi will cause cankers on a maple tree. These fungus are the most common maple bark diseases. They all have the same thing in common, which is that they will create lesions (also called cankers) in the bark but these lesions will look different depending on the canker fungus that is affecting the maple bark. Nectria cinnabarina canker – This maple tree disease can be identified by its pink and black cankers on the bark and typically affects parts of the trunk that were weak or dead. These cankers can become slimy after rain or dew. Occasionally, this fungus will also appear as red balls on the bark of the maple tree.
Eutypella canker – The cankers of this maple tree fungus looks similar to Nectria galligena canker but the layers on the canker will normally be thicker and will not peel away from the tree trunk easily. Also, if the bark is removed from the canker, there will be a layer of visible, light brown mushroom tissue. Valsa canker – This disease of maple trunks will normally affect only young trees or small branches. The cankers of this fungus will look like small shallow depressions on the bark with warts in the center of each and will be white or grey. Steganosporium canker – This maple tree bark disease will create a brittle, black layer over the bark of the tree. It only affects bark that has been damaged by other issues or maple diseases.
Cryptosporiopsis canker – The cankers from this fungus will affect young trees and starts out as a small elongated canker the looks as though someone pushed some of the bark into the tree. As the tree grows, the canker will continue to grow. Often, the center of the canker will bleed during the rising of spring sap. Bleeding canker – This maple tree disease causes the bark to appear wet and is often accompanied by some bark coming away from the maple tree trunk, especially lower down on the trunk of the tree. Basal canker – This maple fungus attacks the base of the tree and rots away the bark and wood beneath. This fungus looks very similar to a maple tree root disease called collar rot, but with collar rot, the bark typically does not fall away from the base of the tree.
Galls and Burls It is not uncommon for maple trees to develop growths called galls or burls on their trunks. These growths often look like large warts on the side of the maple tree and can get to massive sizes. Though often alarming to see, galls and burls will not harm a tree. That being said, these growths do weaken the trunk of the tree and can make the tree more susceptible to falling during wind storms.
Environmental Damage to Maple Bark While not technically a maple tree disease, there are several weather and environment related bark damages that can happen and may look like the tree has a disease. Sunscald – Sunscald most frequently occurs on young maple trees but can happen on older maple trees that have thin skin. It will appear as a long discolored or even barkless stretches on the trunk of the maple tree and sometimes the bark will be cracked. The damage will be on the southwest side of the tree.
Frost cracks – Similar to sunscald, on the southern side of the tree cracks, sometimes deep cracks will appear in the trunk. These frost cracks will most commonly happen in late winter or spring. Over mulching – Poor mulching practices can cause the bark around the base of the tree to crack and fall off.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Dummer. ゛☀
A red maple tree (Acer rubrum) gets its common name from its brilliant red foliage that becomes the focal point of the landscape in autumn, but red colors play a large part in the tree’s ornamental display in other seasons as well. Red flower buds form in winter, opening into showy red flowers before the tree leafs out. New twigs and leaf stems are also red, and after the flowers fade, reddish-colored fruit takes their place. Read on to find out how to grow a red maple tree.
Growing Red Maple Red maple trees vary in size depending on the location and the cultivar. They grow 40 to 70 feet tall with a spread of 30 to 50 feet. Red maples tend to be shorter in the southernmost part of their growing range, which is USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. For small urban lots, consider growing smaller cultivars, such as ‘Schlesingeri,’ which rarely exceeds 25 feet in height. Before you plant, you should know that there are a couple of problems associated with growing red maple trees. They have thick, strong roots that grow near or above the surface of the soil. Although they aren’t as destructive and invasive as those of silver maple trees, they can raise sidewalks and make lawn maintenance a difficult chore. Exposed roots are easily injured if you run over them with a lawn mower.
In addition, the thin bark can sustain damage from string trimmers and flying debris from lawn mowers. These injuries provide entry points for diseases and insects. Buying a red maple sapling isn’t as straightforward as it may seem. First of all, not all red maples have red fall foliage. Some turn brilliant yellow or orange, and although they are striking, they are a disappointment if you were expecting red. One way to make sure you get the color you want is to buy in fall from a local nursery. Fall is an excellent time to plant, and you can see the color of the foliage before you buy. You should also make sure you purchase a tree grown on its own roots rather than a grafted tree. Grafting creates weak points in red maples and makes them more susceptible to breaking.
Red Maple Tree Care and Planting Choose a wet site located in full sun or partial shade. If the site isn’t naturally moist or wet, the tree will need frequent irrigation throughout its life. The soil should be acid to neutral. Alkaline soil leads to pale, sickly leaves and poor growth. Water red maples before the soil has a chance to dry. Slow, deep watering is better than frequent light applications because it encourages deeper roots. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch helps the soil hold moisture longer.
Red maples probably don’t need fertilization every year. When you do fertilize, apply a general purpose fertilizer in early spring. The leaves are naturally light green in color, so you can’t depend on them to tell you when you need to fertilize. If you buy your red maple tree from a good nursery, you probably won’t need to prune it after you plant. If in doubt, remove branches with narrow angles that appear to be trying to grow straight up. Wide angles between the trunk and the branches add strength to the overall structure of the tree, and they are less likely to break.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Dummer. ゛☀
Your maple trees are absolutely gorgeous yellow, orange and red fireballs every fall – and you look forward to it with a great deal of anticipation. When you discover that your tree is suffering from tar spot of maples, you may start to fear that it spells the end to beautiful fall scenery forever. Never fear, maple tree tar spot is a very minor disease of maple trees and you’ll have plenty of fiery falls to come.
What is Maple Tar Spot Disease? Maple tar spot is a very visible problem for maple trees. It starts with small yellow spots on growing leaves, and by late summer these yellow spots expand into large black blotches that look just like tar has been dropped on the leaves. This is because a fungal pathogen in the genus Rhytisma has taken hold. When the fungus initially infects a leaf, it causes a small 1/8-inch wide yellow spot. As the season progresses, that spot spreads, eventually growing up to 3/4 inches wide. The spreading yellow spot also changes colors as it grows, slowly turning from a yellow-green to a deep, tarry black.
The tar spots don’t emerge right away, but are typically obvious by mid to late summer. By the end of September, those black spots are at full size and may even appear to be rippled or deeply grooved like fingerprints. Don’t worry, though, the fungus only attacks the leaves, leaving the rest of your maple tree alone. The black spots are fairly unsightly, but they don’t do any harm to your trees and will be shed when the leaves fall. Unfortunately, maple tree tar spot is spread on the wind, which means that your tree can get reinfected next year if spores happen to hitch a ride on the right breeze.
Maple Tar Spot Treatment Because of the way maple tar spot disease is transmitted, complete control of maple tar spot is virtually impossible on mature trees. Prevention is the key with this disease, but if nearby trees are infected, you can’t reasonably expect to totally destroy this fungus without community support. Start by raking all your maple’s fallen leaves and burning, bagging or composting them to eliminate the closest source of tar spot spores. If you leave the fallen leaves on the ground until spring, the spores on them will likely reinfect the new foliage and start the cycle again. Trees that have trouble with tar spots year after year may also be struggling with excessive moisture. You’ll do them a great favor if you increase the grade around them to eliminate standing water and prevent moisture build-up.
Young trees may require treatment, especially if other trees have had a lot of their leaf surfaces covered by tar spots in the recent past. If you’re planting a younger maple in an area prone to maple tar spot, though, applying a fungicide, like triadimefon and mancozeb, at bud break and twice again in 7- to 14-day intervals is recommended. Once your tree is well-established and too tall to easily spray, it should be able to fend for itself.
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