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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
While not a conventionally beautiful plant, angelica attracts attention in the garden because of its imposing nature. The individual purple or flowers are quite small, but they bloom in large clusters similar to Queen Anne’s lace, creating a striking display. Propagating angelica plants is a great way to enjoy them in the garden. Angelica is best grown in groups with other large plants. It combines well with ornamental grasses, large dahlias and giant alliums. When attempting angelica propagation, you should be aware that growing angelica cuttings is difficult because the stems usually fail to root. Instead, start new plants from angelica seeds or divisions of two- or three-year-old plants. The plants bloom every other year, so plant angelica in two consecutive years for a constant supply of flowers.
Starting Angelica Seeds Angelica seeds grow best when planted as soon as they mature. When they are nearly ripe, fasten a paper bag over the flower head to catch the seeds before they fall to the ground. Use peat or fiber pots so that you won’t have to disturb the sensitive roots when you transplant the seedlings into the garden. Press the seeds gently onto the surface of the soil. They need light to germinate, so don’t cover them with soil. Place the pots in a bright location with temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees F. (15-18 C.) and keep the soil moist.
If you are propagating angelica plants from dried seeds, they need some special treatment. Sow several seeds on the surface of each peat pot. They have a low germination rate and using several seeds in each pot helps insure that seedlings will germinate. After sowing angelica seeds, place the peat pots in a plastic bag and refrigerate them for two to three weeks. Once you bring them out of the refrigerator, treat them as you would fresh seeds. If more than one seedling germinates in a pot, clip out the weakest seedlings with scissors.
How to Propagate Angelica from Divisions Divide angelica plants when they are two or three years old. Cut the plants back to about a foot from the ground to make them easy to handle. Drive a sharp spade in to the center of the plant or lift the entire plant and divide the roots with a sharp knife. Replant the divisions immediately, spacing them 18 to 24 inches apart. An easier method of angelica propagation is to allow the plants to self-seed. If you have mulched around the plant, pull the mulch back so that the seeds that fall will come in direct contact with the soil. Leave the spent flower heads on the plant so that the seeds can mature. When growing conditions are ideal, the seeds will germinate in spring. Now that you know how to propagate angelica, you can continue to enjoy these plants each year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Angelica is an herb commonly utilized in Scandinavian countries. It also grows wild in Russia, Greenland, and Iceland. Less commonly seen here, angelica can be cultivated in the cooler regions of the United States where it can reach heights of up to 6 feet! This begs the question, does angelic plant need trimming and, if so, how to prune angelica herbs?
Does Angelica Plant Need Trimming? ngelica (Angelica archangelica) is also known as garden angelica, Holy Ghost, wild celery, and Norwegian angelica. It is an ancient herb used for its medicinal and magical properties; it was said to ward off evil. The essential oil contained in all parts of the plant lends itself to a multitude of used. The seeds are pressed and the resulting oil is used for flavoring foods. The Lapps not only eat angelica, but use it medicinally and even as a substitute for chewing tobacco. Norwegians crush the roots for use in breads and the Inuit use the stalks as you would celery. As mentioned, angelica can get quite tall, so for that reason alone, some judicious pruning may be advised. While angelica plants are often grown for their sweet roots, their stems and leaves are also often harvested, which is more or less simply pruning the angelica. So, how do you prune angelica herbs?
Pruning Angelica Angelica harvesting may involve the entire plant. Young stems are candied and used to decorate cakes, the leaves can be used in scented pillows, and the roots can be cooked with butter and/or mixed with tart berries or rhubarb to cut down on their acidity. In the angelica’s first growing year, this member of Apiaceae only grows leaves that can be harvested. Angelic harvesting of leaves should occur in the late spring or early summer. Harvesting angelica’s tender stems must wait until the second year and are then candied. Cut the stalks in mid to late spring while they are young and tender. Another good reason for pruning angelica stems is so the plant will continue to produce. Angelica that is left to flower and go to seed will die.
If you are harvesting angelica for its roots, do so the first or second fall for the most tender roots. Wash and dry the roots well and store them in an air tight container. Unlike many other herbs, angelica likes moist soil. In nature, it is most often found growing alongside ponds or rivers. Keep the plant well watered and it should reward you with years of harvesting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
What is dong quai? Also known as Chinese angelica, dong quai (Angelica sinensis) belongs to the same botanical family that includes veggies and herbs such as celery, carrots, dilland parsley. Native to China, Japan and Korea, dong quai herbs are recognizable during the summer months by the umbrella-like clusters of small, sweet-smelling flowers that are highly attractive to bees and other beneficial insects – similar to garden angelica. Read on for more interesting information on Chinese angelica plants, including uses for this ancient herb.
Dong Quai Plant Info Although Chinese angelica plants are attractive and aromatic, they are grown primarily for the roots, which are dug in fall and winter, and then dried for later use. Dong quai herbs have been used medicinally for thousands of years, and they are still in wide use today, primarily as capsules, powders, tablets and tinctures. Traditionally, dong quai herbs have been used to treat female ailments such as irregular menstrual cycles and cramps, as well as hot flashes and other symptoms of menopause. Research is mixed regarding the efficacy of dong quai for “female problems.” However, many experts recommend that the herb shouldn’t be used during pregnancy, as it may cause uterine contractions, thus possibly increasing the risk of miscarriage.
Additionally, boiled dong quai root has traditionally been used as a blood tonic. Again, research is mixed, but it isn’t a good idea to use dong quai herbs within two weeks prior to elective surgery, as it may work as a blood thinner. Dong quai has also been used to treat headaches, nerve pain, high blood pressure and inflammation. In addition to its medicinal qualities, the roots can also be added to stews and soups, much like sweet potatoes. The leaves, which have a flavor similar to celery, are also edible, as are the stems, which are reminiscent of licorice.
Growing Dong Quai Angelica Dong quai grows in nearly any moist, well-drained soil. It prefers full sun or partial shade, and is often grown in semi-shady spots or woodland gardens. Dong quai is hardy in zones 5-9. Plant dong quai angelica seeds directly in the garden in spring or fall. Plant the seeds in a permanent location, as the plant has extremely long taproots that make transplantation very difficult. Chinese angelica plants require three years to reach maturity.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Agrimony (Agrimonia) is a perennial herb that has been tagged with a variety of interesting names over the centuries, including sticklewort, liverwort, church steeples, philanthropos and garclive. This ancient herb has a rich history and is valued to this day by herbalists around the world. Read on for more agrimony plant info, and learn how to grow agrimony herbs in your own garden.
Agrimony Plant Info Agrimony belongs to the rose family, and the spikes of sweet-scented, bright yellow blooms are an attractive addition to the landscape. In days of yore, fabric was colored with dye created from the blooms. Historically, agrimony herbs have been used to treat a variety of conditions, including insomnia, menstrual problems, diarrhea, sore throat, cough, snake bites, skin conditions, blood loss and jaundice. According to various sources of plant folklore, witches used the agrimony herb in their spells to ward off curses. Homeowners, who believed the plant had magical qualities, relied on agrimony sachets to repel goblins and evil spirits. Modern herbalists continue to utilize agrimony herbs as a blood tonic, digestive aid and astringent.
Agrimony Growing Conditions Want to know how to grow agrimony in your garden? It’s easy. Agrimony herb plants grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. The plants thrive in full sunlight and most types of average, well-drained soil, including dry and alkaline soil. Plant agrimony seeds directly in the garden after all danger of frost has passed in spring. You can also start seeds indoors a few weeks ahead of time, then transplant them to the garden when daytime temps are warm and seedlings are about 4 inches tall. Allow at least 12 inches between each seedling. Watch for seeds to germinate in 10 to 24 days. Plants are generally ready for harvest 90 to 130 days after planting. Alternatively, you can propagate root cuttings from mature agrimony plants.
Agrimony Herb Care Agrimony herbs don’t require a lot of attention. Just water lightly until the plants are established. Thereafter, water only when the soil is dry. Beware of overwatering, which can cause powdery mildew. Too much moisture can also result in root rot, which is nearly always deadly. This is really all there is to agrimony herb care. Don’t bother with fertilizer; it isn’t necessary.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
If ever there was the perfect plant for the ultimate brown thumb, the easy ZZ plant is it. This virtually indestructible houseplant can take months and months of neglect and low light and still look amazing. Previously, the ZZ plant would only be found in planters in malls and large office buildings where they would frequently be mistaken for fake plants, partially because they needed so little care and always looked healthy. But in recent years, they have found their way onto the shelves of both big box and hardware stores where anyone can purchase one. This has led to many people wondering how to grow ZZ plants. The short answer is that it takes very little effort.
Learn About the ZZ Plant The ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) gets its common name from its botanical name. As Zamioculcas zamiifolia was long and difficult to say, many nursery workers simply shortened it to Zz. ZZ plant stems grow in a graceful, wand-like shape that starts thick and bulbous at the base and then tapers to a point. Along the stem are fleshy, oval-shaped leaves that make the plant look like stylized feathers. The entire plant has a waxy, shiny coating that makes it appear to resemble those made of plastic. Between the sculptural qualities of the plant and its waxy coating, it is not uncommon for people to insist that it must be an artificial plant.
How to Grow ZZ Plants ZZ plants do best in bright to moderate, indirect light but will do fine in extremely low levels of light. This plant makes an ideal plant for a window-less office or bathroom where it will only receive small amounts of fluorescent light. While ZZ plants can take direct light, you may see some scalding on the leaves if it is left in direct light. Additionally, curling leaves, yellowing and leaning can all be an indication of too much light. When you notice curling taking place, it typically means the plant is trying to move away from the light source. Move the plant to a shadier location or farther away from the light source. You can also try filtering the light with curtains or blinds if moving the plant is not feasible.
Caring for a ZZ Plant ZZ plant care starts with a lack of care. In fact, ZZ plants will do better if you leave them alone. Much like cacti, they need less rather than more water. Water the plant only when the soil has dried out. The rare way you can kill this plant is to over water it. A ZZ plant turning yellow means that it is getting too much water and its underground rhizomes may be rotting. So if you remember nothing else about caring for a ZZ plant, just remember to forget to water it. It can survive months without water, but will grow faster if watered somewhat regularly. ZZ plants are happy without fertilizer, but if you would like, you can give the plants half strength fertilizer one to two times a year and only in the summer months. Growing ZZ houseplants is easy and especially suited for the forgetful gardener.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
ZZ plant is a slow growing, reliable performer that is doggedly loyal even when you mistreat it. It is such an easy plant that creating more of them to share with friends and family seems like a good idea. Propagating ZZ plants is easy but can take up nine months or more. Learn how to root ZZ plant cuttings for a better chance at success.
ZZ Plant Leaf Propagation It is common to find a ZZ plant in an office setting with low light and no fresh air. The uncomplaining plant, Zamioculcus zamiifolia, is also known as eternity plant, fat boy, aroid palm and many more common names. It hails from the Southeast coast of Africa and has been an important houseplant in the industry for years. ZZ plants grow from large thick rhizomes. Propagating ZZ plants is as easy as separating these or you can try rooting leaf cuttings. Propagation of ZZ plants by division can only be done once in a while. This is because the plant produces new rhizomes very slowly and removing some frequently will damage the parent plant. Since rhizomes are slow, it is best to look at leaf cuttings as the source of material for propagation. Stems cuttings alone will not work well, but if you take a cutting with two leaves and a bit of stem, the rooting and growth is quicker than just a single leaf and no stem. ZZ plant leaf cuttings are the recommended method by professional growers and can result in new rhizomes in about 4 weeks when grown in nearly 80 degree Fahrenheit (26 C.) conditions. However, most of us don’t have greenhouse conditions so the process could take nine months or more.
Soil for ZZ Leaf Cuttings Once you have the correct type of cutting, it is time to consider the medium. Some houseplants can root in just a glass of water; however, rooting ZZ plant in water will likely result in a rotten cutting and isn’t the best way to establish new plants. They need to be in well-drained soil or the newly forming rhizomes will mold and fall away. The best mixture for rooting is often one that is almost soilless. At best, it should have superior drainage. Try a good potting soil with plenty of vermiculite or perlite added into it or use a mixture of half peat and half perlite. The perlite or vermiculite will give the medium a light texture and help prevent soil from maintaining too much moisture.
How to Root ZZ Plant Cuttings Take your ZZ plant leaf cuttings from mature stems. Allow the cut end to callus over for a few hours. Then insert it into your medium, cut end down. Place in a warm area with bright light during the day. Check for roots and rhizome formation after a month. Once you have a few tiny rootlets and the bud of a rhizome, you can transplant the cuttings to larger containers. It is a good idea to start many cuttings with ZZ plant leaf propagation because some of them may not take off. Additionally, checking to see if they have roots may actually kill the cutting, but if you have more than one you still have a chance of more ZZ plants. Be very patient. Some growers have mentioned the nine month period as the end of all your waiting, but it could take even longer if the cutting doesn’t have enough light and temperatures aren’t warm enough. Simply put the cuttings somewhere that you will remember to water them occasionally and wait it out. Over time, this slow grower will jump into action and provide you with the start of a new plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
Growing waffle plants as part of a dish garden or a mixed container provides unusual, cascading foliage with a purple color and metallic tint. Waffle plant info indicates that the plant, also known as red ivy or red flame ivy, grows easily indoors under the right growing conditions.
Growing Waffle Plants Learning how to grow Hemigraphis alternata and other waffle plant species is fairly simple once you have it in the right location. Red ivy plant care requires that the plant get bright, but indirect light, meaning direct sunlight should not reach the foliage. When growing waffle plants in direct sun, much of the foliage color washes out and leaf tips can burn. Keep growing waffle plants away from drafts as well. Waffle plant info says growing waffle plants need evenly moist soil. Consistent watering of well drained soil promotes growth and well-being of the waffle plant. However, do not allow roots of the plant to remain in a soggy soil.
Info also indicates high humidity is an integral part of red ivy plant care. Mist the plant regularly, or better yet, create a pebble tray to provide humidity to all your indoor plants. Place layers of pebbles in a plant saucer, or any container without drainage holes. Fill three-quarters of the way with water. Set the plants on top of the pebbles, or near the pebble tray. Indoor humidity is usually low, especially in winter. Pebble trays are an easy way to give your houseplants what they need. Waffle plant info says it is easy to get more growing waffle plants by propagating from stem cuttings. Take 4- to 6-inch stem pieces from the waffle plant, removing all but the top leaves, and place in small containers in moist soil.
Fertilize with a liquid houseplant food or granulated fertilizer. Water as needed to keep the soil moist and you should have rooted cuttings ready to transplant in seven to 10 days. Use the cuttings with compatible plants for more dish gardens. Now that you’ve learned how to grow Hemigraphis alternata, take advantage of its showy color in different houseplant combinations.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
Carnivorous plants are endlessly fascinating. One such plant, the Venus flytrap, or Dionaea muscipula, is native to boggy areas of North and South Carolina. While the flytrap photosynthesizes and garners nutrients from the soil just as other plants, the fact is that boggy soil is less than nutritious. For this reason, the Venus flytrap has adapted to ingesting insects to round out its need for nutrients. If you are lucky enough to have one of these charmingly strange plants, you may have encountered some Venus flytrap problems – namely getting a Venus flytrap to close.
My Venus Flytrap Won’t Close Probably the biggest reason your Venus flytrap does not snap shut is because it’s exhausted, sort of. The leaves of the flytrap have short, stiff cilia or trigger hairs. When something touches these hairs enough to bend them, the dual lobes of the leaves close, effectively trapping the “something” inside in less than a second. There is a lifespan for these leaves, however. Ten to twelve times of snapping shut and they cease to function as trapping leaves and remain open, functioning as photosynthesizers. Chances are good that a store bought plant has already been jostled in transit and played with by any number of potential buyers and are just plain done. You will have to wait patiently for new traps to grow. It is also possible that the reason your Venus flytrap doesn’t snap shut is because it’s dying. Blackening leaves may signal this and are caused by bacteria, which may infect the trap if it hasn’t completely closed when feeding, as when an overly large bug is caught and it can’t shut tightly. A complete seal of the trap is needed to keep the digestive juices in and bacteria out. A dead plant will be brown-black, mushy, and have a rotting odor.
Getting a Venus Flytrap to Close If you feed your Venus flytrap a dead insect, it will not struggle and signal the cilia to close. You have to manipulate the trap gently to simulate a live insect and allow the trap to snap shut. The trap then secretes digestive juices, dissolving the soft innards of the bug. After five to 12 days, the digestive process is completed, the trap opens and the exoskeleton is blown away or washed out with the rain. Getting your flytrap to close may be a matter of temperature regulation. Venus flytraps are sensitive to the cold which will cause the traps to close very slowly.
Keep in mind that the hairs on the traps or lamina have to be stimulated for the trap to shut. At least one hair must be touched twice or several hairs in rapid succession as when an insect is struggling. The plant can distinguish between a living insect and say, raindrops, and will not close for the latter. Lastly, like most plants, the Venus flytrap lies dormant during the fall through to the following spring. During this time period, the trap is in hibernation and has no need for additional nutrition; hence, the traps do not respond to stimulus. Overall green color in the leaves indicates the plant is simply resting and fasting and not dead.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
Venus flytraps are enjoyable and entertaining plants. Their needs and growing conditions are quite different from those of other houseplants. Find out what this unique plant needs to stay strong and healthy, and what to do when Venus flytraps are turning black in this article.
Why to Flytraps Turn Black? Each trap on a Venus flytrap plant has a limited lifespan. On average, a trap lives about three months. The end may look dramatic, but there is usually nothing wrong with the plant. When you find that the traps on a Venus flytrap turn black much sooner than they should or when several traps die at once, check your feeding practices and growing conditions. Correcting the problem can save the plant.
Feeding flytraps Venus flytraps kept indoors depend on their caretakers to provide the insect meals they need to thrive. These plants are so much fun to feed that it’s easy to get carried away. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest the food inside. If you close too many at once, the plant uses all of its reserves and the traps begin to blacken. Wait until the traps are fully open and feed just one or two a week. If you’re feeding the right amount and the Venus flytrap is turning black anyway, perhaps the problem is what you are feeding it. If a bit of the insect, such as a leg or a wing, sticks outside the trap, it won’t be able to make a good seal so that it can digest the food properly. Use insects that are no more than one-third the size of the trap. If the trap catches a bug that is too large on its own just leave it alone. The trap may die, but the plant will survive and grow new traps.
Growing conditions Venus flytraps are a bit fussy about their soil, water and container. The fertilizers and minerals that are added to commercial potting soils help most plants grow, but they are fatal to Venus flytraps. Use a potting mix labeled specifically for Venus flytraps, or make your own from peat moss and sand or perlite. Clay pots also contain minerals, and they leach out when you water the plant, so use plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Water the plant with filtered water to avoid the introduction of chemicals that may be in your tap water. The plant also needs plenty of sunlight. Strong light coming in from a south-facing window is best. If you don’t have strong natural light available, you will have to use grow lights. Good care and proper conditions are essential to preserve the life and health of the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
Carnivorous plants are fun to grow and fascinating to watch and learn about. The Venus fly trap (Dionaea muscipula) is a moisture loving plant that grows near marshes and bogs. The plants have been overharvested in their native habitat and are becoming rare. Native to only a few areas in North and South Carolina, Venus fly traps grow in nitrogen depleted soils. This is why they trap insects, which provide them with the necessary nitrogen. Venus fly trap care is relatively easy and makes a great family project.
How to Care for a Venus Fly Trap The Venus fly trap needs slightly acidic moist soils. Grow a Venus fly trap in a peat moss and sand mixture, which will provide mild acidity and help hold water without keeping soils too soggy. The plant needs at least 60 percent humidity and day time temperatures of 70 to 75 F. (22-24 C.). Nighttime temperatures should not go below 55 F. (13 C.). The Venus fly trap is sensitive to chemicals and heavy mineral contents, so a distilled or bottled water is best. Keep water off the foliage by soaking the plant for an hour in a dish of water to moisten the soil. In order to make Venus fly trap care easier, make it a terrarium. An old aquarium makes a good housing for the plant if you cover it. This encourages humidity and moisture retention and you can allow insects to fly around inside for the plant to catch. Line the inside with TWO parts sphagnum moss and one part sand. The Venus fly trap can then be placed in an east- or west-facing window with high indirect lighting.
Venus fly trap is a rosette form with four to six leaves that are hinged and able to close. They are tinged a rosy pink on the edges and secrete an attractive nectar. The edges of the leaves have numerous fine sensitive cilia. When an insect touches the cilia the leaf closes and traps the insect. Special digestive juices disintegrate the insect and the plant feeds on the insects bodily fluid. Caring for a venus fly trap must ensure that it is exposed to areas where it can capture insects. Learn how to care for a Venus fly trap to help this disappearing species continue.
What to Feed a Venus Fly Trap Plant The fly trap lives up to its name by using its clasping leaves to trap insects. Its diet is not only confined to flies and it will eat creeping insects such as ants, too. When you are caring for a Venus fly trap indoors, you need to assist them by capturing insects. Use tweezers and place the insect on an open leaf pad and tickle the little hairs on the edge until it closes. Some people try to water with beef bouillon or another protein but this can cause mold to form and is not recommended.
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