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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
The schefflera, or umbrella tree, can make a large and attractive accent in a living room, office, or other generous space. Propagating cuttings from schefflera plants is a simple and inexpensive way to create a collection of impressive plants for gifts or home décor. Like with many other bushy plants, schefflera plant cuttings will create a perfect clone of the parent plant, with no chance of mutations as you would encounter with planting seeds. Propagate your schefflera with cuttings and you’ll have a collection of plants healthy and growing within a month or so.
How Can I Root Schefflera Cuttings? How can I root schefflera cuttings? Rooting a schefflera cutting is pretty easy. Clean a sharp knife with an alcohol pad to prevent any possible spread of bacteria to your plants. Clip off a stem near the base of the plant and wrap the cut end in a damp paper towel. Cut each leaf in half horizontally to reduce the amount of moisture it loses during the rooting process.
Fill a 6-inch pot with fresh potting soil. Poke a 2-inch hole in the soil with a pencil. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone powder, place it in the hole and gently pat the soil around the stem to secure it in place. Water the soil and place the pot in a place that gets steady light but not direct sunlight. The stem will begin to grow roots within a few weeks. When the plant begins to grow new green shoots on top, nip off the top of the shoots to encourage branching.
Additional Schefflera Plant Propagation Rooting a schefflera cutting is not the only way to go about schefflera plant propagation. Some growers have better luck with layering when they want to produce one or two new plants. Layering creates new roots along the stem while it is still on the parent plant. Remove the bark in a ring around a flexible stem, near the end and below the leaves. Bend the stem down to force it into the soil in another nearby planter. Bury the cut part, but leave the leafy end above the soil. Hold the stem in place with a bent wire. Keep the soil moist and roots will form around the spot where you damaged the bark. Once new growth occurs, clip it from the original tree. If your stems aren’t long enough to bend into another pot, damage the bark in the same manner, then wrap the area in a clump of damp sphagnum moss. Cover the baseball-sized lump with plastic wrap, then secure it with tape. Roots will grow inside the moss. When you see them through the plastic, clip off the new plant below the plastic, remove the covering and plant it in a new pot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Scheffleras are ornamental foliage plants. In most zones, they are only suitable as houseplants because they are extremely tender. The wide leaf clusters resemble the spokes of an umbrella and have given them the nickname, umbrella tree. Schefflera plants are remarkably tolerant houseplants and do well in a variety of situations; however, they are also prey to insect pests. Sticky Schefflera leaves are likely a symptom of some hitchhiking bugs that are sucking the life out of your prized plant.
Why is my Schefflera Sticky? Scheffleras have gorgeous,large glossy leaves arranged in a circle around a central stem. Each of the leaflets that make up the entire umbrella design can get up to 12 inches long in mature plants. Indoor plants benefit from having the leaves dusted and it is during this activity that you may notice something new on the plant — sticky stuff on Schefflera foliage. The culprits may be several sucking insect pests which deposit excrement called honeydew on their host plant’s foliage, creating sticky Schefflera leaves. Look under the leaves and on the stems of a Schefflera with sticky substance on its leaves. The problem stems from very small insects that feed on the sap of the plant and slowly reduce its vigor. The honeydew leaves behind a shiny, sticky mess. You can wash off the honeydew and get rid of some of the bugs, but just a few left behind will quickly colonize and before you know it you will have a sticky Schefflera plant again. The most common culprits that cause sticky Schefflera leaves are aphids, mites or mealybugs. If you have an ant problem in the house, you may also notice ants in and around the plant. This is because ants “farm” aphids to keep them around for the honeydew, which is an ant food favorite.
What to Do About Sticky Schefflera Leaves Any Schefflera with sticky substance on the leaves can be initially treated by taking it outdoors and blasting the leaves with water. Aphids rinse off the leaves and this treatment usually works well if you follow up at the first sign of the pests. Systemic treatments formulated for houseplants work to prevent the pests and subsequent sticky stuff on Schefflera. It translocates from roots to stem to leaves, so that the insects intake it through their feeding activity. A kinder, gentler solution when children and pets are present is Neem oil. This natural oil comes from a tree native to India. It has both toxic and repellent properties to many insects but is safe for use in the home.
Recovery for a Sticky Schefflera Plant After a successful treatment and all signs of insect pests are gone, it is time to assess the damage. If your plant was dropping leaves, discoloring or failing to produce new growth, it is likely the insects damaged its health to some degree. That means you need to baby a plant that had been affected. Once the Schefflera with sticky substance has been cleaned up and the pests have been eradicated, ill health may continue. Give the plant a gentle fertilizer every two weeks such as diluted compost tea or diluted fish or seaweed fertilizer. Water the plant regularly when the top 3 inches of soil are dry. Repot plants that have poor soil, using a good potting soil with organic amendment. Over the course of a few weeks you should see improvement in your plant and it will be its old glossy self again.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Schefflera is a common house and office plant. This tropical plant is native to Australia, New Guinea and Java, where it is an understory plant. The exotic foliage and epiphytic nature of the plant make it an interesting specimen to grow in warm season gardens. Can Schefflera plants grow outside? Sadly, the plant is not reliably hardy below United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11, but it will make an interesting container specimen that can be moved indoors.
Growing Schefflera Plants Outdoors When the sun is shining, it is tempting to mimic some of our favorite tropical vacation spots in our landscapes. Adding tropical flair to the garden evokes the sights and sounds of a sultry, humid rainforest in an exotic locale. If you live in an appropriate zone, you can grow Shefflera outdoors year round. Outdoor Schefflera care differs somewhat from indoor plant maintenance. Plants can get bigger in ground and may need supplemental support and nutrition as well as a regular watering schedule, but Schefflera plant care outside is low maintenance compared to many landscape plants. Choose a location with partial to full shade or even full sun when growing Schefflera plants outdoors. Incorporate plenty of well-rotted compost, leaf litter or other organic amendments. Remember, in its native range the plant would be growing in the humus rich soil that is nurtured by a constant supply of over story leaves, animal droppings and constant moisture. It is necessary to duplicate that rich soil as much as you can for best Schefflera growth.
Apparently, some Schefflera plants can tolerate zone 9b but will require a sheltered location, and in ground plants may die back. In other zones, you can use Schefflera as an annual foliage plant or keep it in a container and move indoors if cold temperatures arrive. Schefflera plants are common in southern California, Florida, and in places like Phoenix. The plants need a high humidity environment to produce the bright red flowers, so most regions cannot expect blooms, but the attractive foliage will provide a tropical foil for other plants.
Care for Outdoor Schefflera Plants Schefflera plant care outside is not a lot different from indoor houseplant care. Over time, the tree will drop its leaves as it produces new ones. These take quite a while to break down and should be moved away from the root zone so insects and pests don’t have a convenient hiding place. Plants tend to dry out more quickly and they are more exposed to pests and diseases. Keep your Schefflera moderately moist and watch for mealybugs, scale, aphids, and spider mites. Keep the leaves rinsed free of dust and debris. Staking or support may be required for good care for outdoor Schefflera plants. Be careful where you install Shefflera, as the roots are dense and strong and can damage driveways and foundations over time. For good outdoor Schefflera care, some gardeners recommend topping the plant when it grows tall. This forces it to produce a denser form and branching. If your plant gets flowers, you may want to remove them in areas such as Florida, where the plant easily naturalizes itself. Simply remove the flowers before seed is mature. With a little protection and forethought, Schefflera can make an excellent addition to the landscape for years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Scheffleras are very popular house plants that produce big dark or variegated palmate leaves (leaves made up of several smaller leaflets growing out of a single point). Hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11, they are often kept in pots indoors in colder areas. However, life indoors in a pot can be hard on a plant, and can often result in leggy, unhealthy looking shapes. That’s when it’s time to prune. Keep reading to learn more about trimming schefflera houseplants and how to prune a schefflera.
Trimming Schefflera Houseplants The tropical schefflera plant, also known as umbrella plant or tree, can grow quite large outdoors in the right climate. Indoors, this popular houseplant can be trimmed and maintained at a manageable size. Pruning schefflera plants is easy and nothing that should prevent you from enjoying this beautiful plant in your home. If you have ever seen a native schefflera outdoors, you may be surprised to find how large they grow. When given natural light, water, and space, they can grow to be 40 feet (12 meters) tall. Indoors, they will only grow to about 8 feet (2.5 meters). You can manage the height of your umbrella plant by trimming and shaping it. Pruning schefflera plants is not strictly necessary, but if you want a pretty umbrella shape and a certain height, or if your plant has gotten out of control, you can easily trim it. Scheffleras can have a single trunk, but they tend to have multiple stalks that branch off as the plant gets higher. If your plant isn’t getting enough light or nutrients, or if it’s just in too small of a pot, some of those stalks might get long and leggy. They might flop over under their own weight or produce leaves only at the ends. This is a good indication that it’s time for schefflera plant pruning. Pruning a schefflera plant is not especially hard – if you see a long and unhealthy looking stalk, cut it back! Cut any bad looking stalks down to 3 or 4 inches high. This should encourage new growth and make the plant more compact and dense. It may also help to move the plant to a sunnier window or transplant to a bigger pot.
How to Prune a Schefflera Plant If you have just bought a schefflera from the nursery, it is probably 2 to 3 feet (about 1 meter) tall. As it grows, you can prune it to help maintain the shape you want and to prevent it from getting any taller than you want it to be. For indoor plants, this can be done at any time of year. Use a sharp pair of pruners or a knife and make cuts just above leaves. Make cuts to break up denser clumps and to make the plant appear more even. Strategically pruning a schefflera plant can encourage it to grow out as well as up and make for a denser, more bushy shape. Trimming schefflera houseplants can be achieved by cutting off the tops of the tallest stalks about an inch above the spot where the next leaf down is attached. This will encourage more growth outward from the stalk instead of upward.
Cutting Overgrown Scheffleras You can also prune your schefflera if it has gotten overgrown. Make cuts to shape it and to thin it out so that light can get in and stimulate leaf growth on any bare branches. If you have a “leggy” stem, or a main stem that lacks leaf growth, you can cut it back to about six inches (5 cm.). It may seem severe, but this stem’s growth will catch up to any others. The reason it went bare may be lack of light. Be sure your umbrella plant is in a spot where it gets a lot of indirect light. Rotate it occasionally to even out leaf growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Schefflera is popular as a houseplant and is usually grown for its attractive foliage. Most people in temperate regions have never seen a schefflera blooming, and it would be easy to assume that the plant doesn’t produce flowers. Flowering schefflera plants may be unusual, but these plants do bloom once in a while, even when they’re grown indoors year round.
When Does Schefflera Bloom? Schefflera plants, which are commonly known as umbrella trees, are tropical. In the wild, they grow in tropical rainforests or in various parts of Australia and China, depending on the species. They certainly produce flowers in their native habitats, but you may be wondering: does schefflera bloom in cooler regions?
Schefflera plants are less likely to flower in temperate regions, but they do produce flowers occasionally, especially in warmer locations like Florida and Southern California. In gardening zones 10 and 11, Schefflera actinophylla can be planted outdoors in a full sun location, and these conditions seem to give the plant the best chance to flower. The schefflera blooms are most likely to appear in summer. Flowering is not reliable outside the tropics, so this likely won’t happen every year. Schefflera arboricola has been known to bloom indoors. Giving the plant as much sunlight as possible may help encourage it to flower, and this species, too, is most likely to bloom in summer.
What Do Schefflera Flowers Look Like? Depending on the species, schefflera blooms can be white, pink, or red. In Schefflera actinophylla, each inflorescence, or flower spike, is quite long and showy, with many small flowers emerging along its length. The inflorescences are grouped in clusters at the end of branches. These clusters have been described as looking like the tentacles of an upside-down octopus, which accounts for one of the plant’s common names, “octopus-tree.” Schefflera arboricola produces more compact flowers on small inflorescences that look like small white spikes. Its flower spikes also grow in clusters that have a surprising appearance, especially on a plant that is so well known for its foliage. When your schefflera plant flowers, it is definitely a special occasion. Be sure to take some photos before these schefflera blooms fade!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
The schefflera houseplant is a popular plant and comes in many varieties. The most well known are the umbrella tree and the dwarf umbrella tree. One of the reasons the plant is popular is because schefflera plant care is so easy, but, while schefflera care is easy, the plant does need to be cared for. Keep reading to learn more about growing schefflera and keeping it healthy and lush.
Schefflera Plant Care Instructions There are two very important parts to proper schefflera care. The first is correct sunlight and the second is proper watering. Light – Schefflera plants are medium light plants, which means that they need bright but indirect light. A common complaint about schefflera plants is that they get leggy and floppy. This problem is caused by too little light. Making sure that you are growing schefflera in the right kind of light will help prevent leggy growth. On the other side, you do not want to place a schefflera houseplant in direct, bright light, as this will burn the leaves. Water – When growing schefflera, be aware that watering correctly will help to keep your schefflera houseplant healthy. To water correctly, wait until the soil in the pot dries out and then thoroughly soak the soil when you water. Often, people will over water their schefflera plant and this will eventually kill it. Yellow leaves that fall off the plant is a sign that you may be watering too much.
Additional care of schefflera includes pruning and fertilization. Pruning – Your schefflera may also need to be pruned occasionally, especially if it is not getting quite enough light. Pruning a schefflera is simple. Just cut off what you feel is overgrown or leggy back to a size or shape you like. Schefflera houseplants rebound quickly from pruning and will look even fuller and more lush shortly after pruning. Fertilizer – You do not need to fertilize your schefflera, but if you would like to, you can give it a half solution water soluble fertilizer once a year. Schefflera plants are poisonous to people and animals, if eaten. It is not often fatal but will cause a burning sensation, swelling, difficulty swallowing, and in severe cases, difficult breathing.
Schefflera Houseplant Pests and Diseases Schefflera plants are not often bothered by pests or disease, but it can happen occasionally. Spider mites and mealybugs are the most common pests that affect schefflera plants. In light cases of infestation, washing the plant with water and soap will normally eliminate the pests. With heavier infestations, you many need to treat the plant with an insecticide like neem oil. Also, be aware that pests typically attack this plant if it is stressed. If your schefflera has pests, this is likely a sign it is either getting too little light or too much water. The most common disease that affects schefflera is root rot. This disease is brought on by overwatering and poor drainage in the soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Rubber tree plants, (Ficus elastica) tend to get rather large and need to be pruned in order to control their size. Overgrown rubber trees have difficulty supporting the weight of their branches, resulting in an unsightly display and possible snapping of the branches. Pruning a rubber tree plant isn’t overly complicated and it actually responds well to pruning.
When to Prune a Rubber Tree Rubber tree plants are quite resilient and rubber tree trimming can basically take place any time of the year. In fact, branches that are out of sorts can be removed without any damage to the plant. However, these plants will usually respond faster to pruning during late spring or early summer—around June. This is also considered a good time for taking cuttings, as they are thought to root quicker and easier.
How to Trim a Rubber Tree Plant Whether it’s simply a subtle, orderly trim or a hard, heavy prune, rubber tree trimming takes little effort and results in a nice, full plant. As long as you keep in mind the fact that this plant grows back from the next nodes down, you can cut it to whatever length and style you want. Before you prune a rubber tree, make sure your pruning shears are clean and sharp. It may also be a good idea to wear gloves to prevent any irritation from its milk-like sap.
Step back and study the shape of your tree to get an idea of how you would like it to look. Prune rubber tree plant by making your cuts just above a node — where the leaf attaches to the stem or where another stem branches off. You can also prune just above a leaf scar. Remove about a third to one-half of the plant’s branches but take care not to remove too much foliage than is necessary. New growth will eventually appear from these cuts so don’t be alarmed if the plant seems a bit haggard looking following pruning.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
If your rubber plant is losing leaves, it can be alarming. It can leave a plant owner wondering, “Why do leaves drop off rubber plants?” There are many reasons for leaves falling off rubber tree plant.
Causes of Rubber Tree Plant Leaves Falling Off Light Change – A common reason for a rubber plant losing leaves is a change in the light. Many times, this will happen when you bring your rubber tree plant in from outdoors, and this change can cause a total drop of the rubber tree leaves. A few rubber tree leaves may fall off the plant with the change from summer to fall, when light levels change. Acclimating the plant slowly when you bring it indoors and shining a few plant lights on the rubber tree will help keep the light levels up and keep the rubber plant from losing leaves. Pests – Pests are another common reason for rubber tree plant leaves falling off. In particular, rubber tree plants are susceptible to being infested with scale bugs, and these pests will cause the leaves to drop off until the plant is treated.
Treat scale or other pests with an insecticide like neem oil. Humidity – Rubber tree plants need higher humidity. Houses can be dry, especially in the winter when the heat is on. This lack of humidity can cause leaves falling off rubber tree plant. To correct this problem, mist the rubber tree plant daily or set the plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water to increase humidity. Air Drafts – Rubber tree plants are susceptible to cold air and while your home may be the right temperature for rubber tree plant, cold drafts from windows or doors in your home may be hitting the plant and causing the rubber tree leaves to fall off. Move the plant away from any draft windows or doors that may be letting a draft in when it opens.
Over Fertilization – Rubber tree plants are frequently killed with kindness from their owners. One way this happens is that a rubber tree owner will fertilize the plant too often, and this causes a rubber plant to lose leaves. Rubber tree plants only need to be fertilized once in awhile. They need very little feeding. Over Watering – Another way that rubber tree owners can over care for their plant is by over watering the plant. When a rubber tree plant is over watered, it can shed its leaves. Only water the plant when the top of the soil is dry.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Rubber trees are hardy and versatile houseplants, which leads many people to wonder, “How do you get a start of a rubber tree plant?” Propagating rubber tree plants is easy and means that you will have starts for all of your friends and family. Keep reading to learn how to propagate a rubber tree so that you can give your friends a free rubber tree plant.
Propagate a Rubber Tree Plant with Cuttings Rubber tree plants can grow very tall and this means an indoor rubber tree occasionally needs to be pruned. After pruning, don’t throw out those cuttings; instead, use them to propagate a rubber tree plant. Propagate a rubber tree plant from cuttings starts with getting a good cutting. The cutting should be about 6 inches long and have at least two sets of leaves. The next step in how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to remove the bottom set of leaves from the cutting. If you would like, you can dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Then, place the rubber tree cutting in moist but well-draining potting soil. Cover the cutting with either a jar or clear plastic, but make sure that the intact leaves do not touch the glass or plastic. If you need to, you can cut the remaining leaves in half, removing the half that is not attached to the stem. Place the rubber tree plant cutting in a warm place that is lit by only indirect light. In two to three weeks, the rubber tree cutting should have developed roots and the covering can be removed.
Using Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant Another way to propagate a rubber tree plant is by using air layering. This method basically leaves the “cutting” on the rubber tree while it is rooting. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem to make into a new plant. The stem should be at least 12 inches long, but can be longer if you would like. Next, remove any leaves immediately above and below the area where you will be rooting the stem, then take a sharp knife and carefully remove a 1-inch wide strip of bark that goes all the way around the stem. You should have a “naked” ring that goes around the stem of the rubber tree plant. Remove all of the soft tissue in that ring, but leave the hard center wood intact.
After this, dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover the ring with damp sphagnum moss. Secure the sphagnum moss to the stem with a plastic covering. Make sure the moss is completely covered. The plastic will help keep the sphagnum moss damp as well. In two to three weeks, the stem of the rubber tree should have developed roots at the ring. After it has developed roots, cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cacti and succulents make outstanding landscaping plants. They require little maintenance, grow in a variety of climates, and are easy to care for and grow. Most will even tolerate neglect. These plants are also well adapted to potted environments, making them excellent candidates for growing indoors as well.
Types of Cacti Cacti vary in size, color, shape and growing habits. They may grow in upright columns, spreading clumps or spiny balls. They might even be found cascading over large rocks or in hanging baskets. Cacti are available in numerous varieties too, many of which produce stunning flowers. While many types of cactus are native to desert climates, most will tolerate a number of growing conditions. This versatility makes cactus landscaping possible nearly anywhere. Some popular types of cacti found in landscape settings include: Prickly pear cactus – known for its broad, flat prickly stems, of which the tips turn coral colored in bright sun. Barrel cactus – resembles spine-covered barrels. Cholla cactus – has thin round stems and is quite attractive when used as a focal point within the landscape. Pincushion cactus – resembling a small pincushion with its tiny spines sticking out from its round ball-like shape, it makes an interesting addition to the garden. Totem pole cactus – characterized by their large height and spineless column shape. Organ pipe cactus – grows in clusters that look similar to its name-organ pipes.
Cactus Landscaping Tips When landscaping with cactus and succulent plants, you should always do your homework first. Learn more about their individual growing requirements and try to match these requirements to that of your landscape. Cactus plants have a number of survival tactics that allow them to adapt to a particular environment; however, it’s always better to choose those that are more likely to thrive in your particular area. Including a variety of cacti that share similar growing needs but with different heights and textures will add interest to the cactus garden.
Growing Cactus Outdoors When growing cactus outdoors, choose a sunny, sloped location whenever possible. Locating cactus on a slope allows for better drainage, which is vital when dealing with these plants. Depending on the types of cactus chosen, beds should be about 6 to 12 inches deep with well-drained soil specially formulated for cactus plants. This can be purchased or mixed yourself using two parts potting soil, two parts sand, and one part gravel. Cactus plants also enjoy a moderate layer of mulch such as pebbles, rocks, or similar substance. Once established, cacti require little maintenance and very little, if any, water.
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