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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Ponytail palms are truly interesting houseplants with their spiky poof of slender leaves capping a decidedly elephant skin trunk. They are not true palms, however, so can you trim ponytail palms? Read on for the answer on how to prune ponytail palm and the chances it will come back from severe top damage. Ponytail palms are inexpensive, fun little houseplants with slow growth and minimal care needs. Place the little plant in full sun and water sparingly and normally the plant will continue its tortoise-paced growth and give you no trouble. About the only problem with these plants is overwatering.
Can You Trim Ponytail Palm? Let’s be clear on the difference between trimming and pruning. Trimming may be done with shears and generally refers to removal of the tips of leaves. Pruning is done with the intention of removing base and woody material for plant rejuvenation, or restoration. The ponytail palm leaves are sensitive to injury and tend to get dark at the ends. Cutting back ponytail palm leaves is easy to preserve the appearance of the plant. Use good sharp scissors or yard snips to cut off just the discolored parts.
Ponytail Palm Pruning that if you want to prune any base or woody material, you would literally be removing the trunk. Cutting back ponytail palm is not an effective method of maintenance in that it would leave an open trunk and no greenery. The action would expose the stem to mold and mildew and it would likely rot before it could ever start producing any more leaves or offsets. The plant doesn’t have stems so much, as simply the long strappy leaves that arch out from the slimmest part of the trunk. Ponytail palm pruning is only used if you want to remove the pups for planting. This would be consistent with the definition of removal of base or woody material.
Making a Three Headed Plant Pruning ponytail plants that are less than 6 inches tall will result in the plant producing more heads. It only works on the very young plants and you should make slightly curved cuts into the main trunk to force growth. Keep the plant in an arid region, without much humidity, to prevent the cut from rotting. Once it calluses, the plant will send out a shoot and eventually leaves to form another cap of foliage. Growers often create two- and three-headed plants in this manner, for larger ponytail palms with extra interest. How to Prune a Ponytail Palm for Sucker Removal The suckers are also known by the cuter name — pups. These grow at the base of the thick trunk snuggled up to the parent plant. Also called offsets, they should be divided from the main plant in spring and planted as separate, although cloned, plants. The leaves grow in clumps with a base that attaches to the trunk. The clump is an offset or pup. Use a very sharp, clean knife or pruners for pruning ponytail palms and plant the pups immediately in a gritty potting soil.
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2017年08月19日
When people ask how to transplant a ponytail palm tree (Beaucarnea recurvata), the most important factor is the size of the tree. If you grow small ponytail palms in pots, or grow them as bonsai plants, swapping out the pot is not a complex procedure. However, ponytail palms grown in the ground, or in large pots, can reach 18 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Transplanting large ponytail palms is a very different matter than moving a small one into a slightly bigger pot. Read on to learn about ponytail palm replanting.
Can I Replant My Ponytail Palm? It is entirely possible to repot or transplant a ponytail palm, no matter how large it is. You can undertake ponytail palm replanting yourself, as long as you follow the general guidelines. Transplanting large ponytail palms, however, requires the assistance of many strong arms and even a tractor. If you have a potted ponytail palm, consider well before moving it to a bigger pot. Potted ponytail palms are happiest when root bound. If you are trying to grow it as a bonsai, repotting may not be a good idea since ponytail palm replanting encourages the plant to grow bigger.
When to Move Ponytail Palms Knowing when to move ponytail palms is important to the transplant effort. The best time to repot or transplant a ponytail palm is in early spring or summer. This gives the plant many months to establish new roots before winter chill sets in.
How to Transplant a Ponytail Palm Tree in a Pot If you decide your potted palm needs a little more root room, you need to figure out how to transplant a ponytail palm tree. Small ponytail palms grown in containers are fairly easy to move to bigger pots. First, remove the plant from its pot by sliding a flat instrument, like a dinner knife, around the inside of the container. Once the plant is out of the pot, wash the roots in running water to remove the soil. Inspect the roots. If any roots are damaged or rotted, clip them back. Also, trim out as any root section with insects. Trim back big, older roots, then apply a rooting hormone to those roots that are left. Repot the plant in a slightly larger container. Use soil made up of half potting soil and half a mix of perlite, vermiculite, shredded bark and sand. Transplanting Large Ponytail Palms You’ll need help in the form of strong human beings if you are transplanting large ponytail palms. Depending on the size of the plant, you may also need a crane and tractor. You’ll need to dig a moat around the tree some 20 inches out from the bulb area at its base. Continue digging until you are below the main part of the root system. Slide a shovel under the rootball to sever any small descending roots. Use strong assistants – and perhaps a crane – to lift the tree, root ball and all, from the hole. Transport it by tractor to its new location. Place the root ball in the new hole at about the same depth as in the prior hole. Water the plant in, then withhold additional water until the plant is established in its new location.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Don’t invest too much in this plant’s name. Ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) is neither a real palm nor does it really have ponytails. Its swollen base looks like a palm and the long, thin leaves curve outward, then hang down like ponytails. But does ponytail palm flower? If you are hoping for flowers and fruit from this plant, there is good news and bad news. While you can get flowering on a ponytail palm, you may have to wait up to 30 years to see it.
Does Ponytail Palm Flower? You can grow ponytail palm in the ground or in very large pots. In either case, given sufficient patience, you may be lucky enough to see it flower. Flowering on a ponytail palm does not occur the first year you purchase a small plant, nor, likely during the next decade. Before the plant flowers, it increases significantly in size and girth. The plant’s palm-like trunk sometimes grows to 18 feet high and widens t 6 feet in diameter. But size alone does not trigger first flowering on a ponytail palm. Experts believe that a combination of factors, including weather, can be instrumental in causing initial ponytail palm flowering. Once the plant blooms, it will flower every summer.
Ponytail Palm Flower Spike You will know that ponytail palm flowering is near when the ponytail palm flower spike appears. The spike looks like a feather plume and it will produce myriad small branches holding hundreds of tiny flowers. The ponytail palm is dioecious. This means that it produces male flowers on some plants and female flowers on others. You can tell whether your flowering ponytail plants are male or female by the flower colors. Females have pink flowers; male flowers are ivory. Bees and other insects flock to the blooms.
Flowering on a Ponytail Palm bear fruit after flowering. However, they will only do so if there are male flowering ponytail plants nearby. The seed capsules on the ponytail palm flower spike are papery capsules. They contain tan seeds the size and shape of peppercorns. Once flowering and fruiting is completed, each ponytail palm flower spike dries up and withers. Cut it off at this point to enhance the beauty of the plant.
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2017年08月19日
Ponytail palms (Beaucarnea recurvata) are distinctive plants that you are not likely to confuse with any other small trees in your garden. Slow growers, these palms have swollen trunk bases that taper. They are best known for the long, slender cascading leaves that are arranged in much the same way as a pony’s tail. Growing ponytail palm outdoors is possible in warmer climates and caring for ponytail palm outdoors is not difficult. Read on for more information about how to grow a ponytail palm outside.
Can You Plant Ponytail Palms Outside? If you live in a very warm climate like that found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, growing ponytail palm outdoors is entirely feasible. They can grow to 30 feet tall, but rarely do as houseplants. Plant them as small, unusual specimen trees or else in containers on the patio. If you start a ponytail palm indoors and decide to move it to a permanent outdoor location, be patient and take your time. Ponytail palm plant care in this circumstance dictates that the plant be exposed to the increased light and altered temperature gradually, over a number of days or weeks.
How to Grow a Ponytail Palm Outside Caring for ponytail palm outdoors requires a knowledge of ponytail palm plant care. These lovely little trees thrive in full sun with generous but infrequent irrigation. Overwatering is a serious problem for ponytail palms grown as houseplants. Remember that the common name of this plant is slightly misleading. The ponytail palm is not a palm at all but related to the water-sparing yucca family. Expect this plant to store water in its swollen trunk base to help it through dry, hot weather.
Growing ponytail palm outdoors is only possible in well-drained soils, since the plant develops root rot in wet earth. On the other hand, the plant accepts most soil types, including sandy and loamy. Even with the best ponytail palm plant care, you will have to wait a long time for this tree to branch. If you are hoping to see the showy flower clusters, you may have to wait even longer. They only grow on established trees.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
The ponytail palm is also sometimes called a bottle palm or elephant foot tree. This southern Mexico native is mostly propagated through seeds, which germinate readily. In just a few years, the seedlings will produce tall slender stems with wide bases. Propagating ponytail palm seeds starts with harvesting fresh seed from the ivory white to creamy green flowers. We’ll tell you all you need to know on how to grow ponytail palm from seeds and increase your stock of this wonderful unique plant.
Ponytail Palm Propagation The ponytail palm makes a perfect houseplant, being tolerant of many light levels and conditions. It can also grow outdoors in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 12. These fun little plants are usually only 2 to 4 feet tall in containers but outdoor, in-ground plants can achieve 10 to 15 feet in height. It is usually the outdoor specimens that produce the flowers and seeds. Wait until the flower petals are spent and the seed capsules are beginning to dry before harvesting ponytail palm seeds. Ponytail palms are also often propagated by division of offsets. These are smaller versions of the parent plant that may crop up around the swollen trunk. Remove these in spring and start them off in pots for the first couple of years. For ponytail palm seed propagation, you will need fresh, viable seed from the pollinated flowers. The plants are dioecious, which means only female plants produce seed. Gather the capsules or fruits when they are no longer green and are tan to brown. Open capsules into a clean container or onto paper to capture the seeds. Bloom time is summer, so the best time for harvesting ponytail palm seeds is early fall.
How to Grow Ponytail Palm from Seeds Propagating ponytail palm seeds is the surest way to grow more of these fun plants. While division is quicker, offsets do not always root. Growing ponytail palms from their seed results in a surer propagation method and seeds germinate rapidly if soaked overnight or gently scarified. The tough seed coating needs to be softened or damaged slightly to allow the sprout to emerge. Ponytail palms prefer light gritty soil. A good mixture for seed is 4 parts sand, 2 parts peat and 1 part each sterile soil and perlite. Sow seeds in 3-inch containers so you don’t need to disturb seedlings for quite some time. Moisten the medium and sow seed on the surface of the soil, pressing it in lightly. Top off with a light dusting of sand.
Care During Ponytail Palm Seed Propagation Keep the container lightly moist by misting and place in an area with a temperature of at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 C.). Heat under the container can speed germination. Cover the container with plastic until germination. Remove the plastic once per day to allow excess moisture to escape. Keep the container in a brightly lit area but with some shelter from noonday sun, which may burn new leaves. You can expect sprouts in 1 to 3 months depending upon the time of year and amount of light and heat the plant experiences. Remove the heating mat and plastic once you see sprouts. Continue to mist your little ponytail palms and keep them in a bright, warm area. Once the seedlings have several pairs of true leaves, water deeply but infrequently in summer and reduce to half in winter. Use a good liquid plant food diluted in spring and again in summer.
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2017年08月19日
In recent years, the ponytail palm tree has become a popular houseplant and it is easy to see why. Its sleek bulb-like trunk and lush, long curly leaves make it visually stunning; and the fact that a ponytail palm is forgiving and easy in its care makes this an ideal houseplant for many people.
The Ponytail Palm Tree Oddly enough, a ponytail palm tree is neither a palm nor a tree. In fact, it is a member of the Agave family and is actually a succulent. Other common names for this plant include bottle palm tree or elephant foot tree. In the past, it has been classified as either Nolina recurvata or Beaucarnea recurvata, but the latter is now the correct classification of this plant. The common characteristics of this plant include a bulbous trunk, which is used to store water, and its long, hair-like leaves that grow from the top of the trunk like a ponytail, giving the plant its renowned name.
Growing Ponytail Palms Growing ponytail palms in the home is easy. Technically, a ponytail palm tree needs bright light, but because it is such a forgiving plant, it will be okay if you give it bright light about half the time. In fact, if you keep it in low light conditions half the year and provide bright light conditions the other half the year, it will be perfectly happy. This means that as long as you place it outdoors in the summer, it will tolerate any indoor light conditions you keep it in during the winter. Since this plant is a succulent, it grows best in semi-dry conditions. When growing ponytail palm as a houseplant, you should let the soil dry out significantly in between waterings.
How to Care for a Ponytail Palm The care instructions for ponytail palm are relatively short. Because ponytail palm care requires dry soil, it is best to let them get root bound before repotting and when you do repot them, use a pot that is only an inch or two wider than the previous pot. If you repot them into a larger pot, they can get too much water at once, which can damage their growth and health. Ponytail palms only need to be fertilized two or three times per year. Any more than this and the plant may develop brown tips on the leaves. Ponytail palm care is very easy and growing ponytail palms as a houseplant is a great way to add a stunning and visually interesting plant to almost any room.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are a fantastic addition to the home. They’re a little bit temperamental, but if you’re willing to put in the extra work, you’ll have a striking conversation piece. Keep reading to learn about good pitcher plants for hanging baskets.
Hanging Pitcher Plant Care Hanging pitcher plants in baskets is the most effective way to grow them. In the wild, the plants vine up trees, and providing them with plenty of empty space will give them the air circulation they crave and allow the pitchers to grow to their full and most impressive extent. Hanging pitcher plants thrive in light, well-draining soil that’s poor in nutrients but high in organic matter. This can be sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, or a store-bought orchid mix. Pitcher plants need high humidity – water frequently from above, and mist daily. Hang your basket somewhere it can receive full sun. Temperature is very important. Most species require daytime temperatures of 80 F. (26 C.) and higher, with a very marked temperature drop at night.
Pitcher Plants for Hanging Baskets Pitcher plants are native to Southeast Asia and northern Australia and, for the most part, crave high temperatures and humid air. Many varieties, however, grow at high elevations and are used to much cooler temperatures. Pitcher plants cross pollinate very easily and, as such, there are a huge number of varieties and quite a few that are able to tolerate low temperatures. Nepenthes khasiana is a species that’s a good choice for beginners. It’s extremely hardy as pitcher plants go, with a tolerance range of 38-105 F. (3-40 C.). Nepenthes stenophylla can tolerate a narrower but still wide range of temperatures from 50-98 F. (10-36 C.). If you live in a hot area or have a greenhouse, however, your options are much greater. Nepenthes alata is easy to care for and forms bright red pitchers that can reach 7 inches (8 cm) in length. Nepenthes eymae produces wide, red speckled pitchers low on the plant and small green pitchers higher up, making for a nice, diverse look.
The number of species is enormous, however, so first get a sense of your area’s temperature range, and then look into what’s available.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plant is a fascinating carnivorous plant that has ornamental appeal while entertaining and educating on a unique method of feeding. Propagating pitcher plants can be done by tissue culture, seed or stem cuttings. Rooting cuttings is the more common method for a home gardener. Pitcher plant cuttings must be taken at the right time of the year and from a mature plant. Collectors know how to propagate a pitcher plant so we’ll take some tips from them and explore the world of pitcher plant growing.
How to Propagate a Pitcher Plant The pitcher plant has a silhouette that most gardeners can recognize. The plants produce male and female flowers on separate plants. The two sexes appear identical and make it nearly impossible to ensure that you have one of each. Additionally, the plants need to be flowering at the same time in order for the male’s pollen to transfer to the female bloom. This is as likely as my winning the lottery in any environment but nature. Rooting cuttings is a far easier and surer way to propagate pitcher plants. There are two methods that should do the trick and produce new pitcher plants in a month or two. Plants in nature produce offspring through seed. Baby plants take a long time to develop and fertilization is capricious in nature. A gardener who wants to undertake propagation through seed will need patience and a lot of luck. Tissue cultured plants are best left to those professionals in the nursery industry or someone with a botany degree. Cuttings, however, grow quickly and are easy for even a novice gardener to undertake. Cuttings from mature plants with actively growing stems work best. When the plant begins to produce vining stems, harvest a climbing stalk that has a basal rosette. Use a clean, sharp razor and take the stem just below a lower leaf with a growth bud. Count 3 nodes and make your cut.
Growing Pitcher Plants from Cuttings in Water Once you have your cutting, it is time to root the material. Pitcher plant cuttings can be rooted in water or in a soilless medium. Use rain or distilled water and immerse the end of the cutting and the first growth node in the liquid. Place the glass in a bright area where temperatures are moderately warm. Change the water at least once per week. The stem should split in less than two weeks and begin to produce tiny rootlets. If the cutting is a piece of the tip of the stem, the end growth should continue growing. When the cutting has 6 rootlets, plant it in sphagnum moss. Keep the cutting moderately moist. In six months or more, the plant will develop a classic pitcher form. Propagating pitcher plants in this way is quite easy, but you have to watch the cutting for any signs of fungus or rot.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings in Moss Harvesting a cutting that will grow in moss is the same as that for a water grown plant. Professionals use rooting hormone on the end of the cutting and often a fungicide. If you have a sterile medium, the fungicide is not necessary but the rooting hormone helps enhance the plant’s ability to send out rootlets. Sphagnum moss or a 50/50 mixture of coir and perlite create ideal conditions when growing pitcher plants from cuttings. Remove the bottom leaf and settle the stem into the medium with the remaining two leaves above the surface. Make sure the cutting has one growth bud below the surface of the medium. Lightly moisten the medium and place the container in a plastic bag. Keep the container in a brightly lit area. It can take six months to a year to see new growth while rooting takes place. Do not disturb or repot the plant until new growth is observed. It’s a tedious wait, but the benefits will be clear when your new pitcher plant begins to produce its characteristic hood.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are fascinating carnivorous plants that are surprisingly adaptable to the indoor environment. However, it’s important to keep in mind that there are many types of pitcher plants with many different needs, and some varieties can be a little on the fussy side. Read on to learn the basics of growing pitcher plant as a houseplant and pitcher plant care indoors.
How to Care for Pitcher Plant Indoors Light – If possible, refer to the tag that came with your pitcher plant, as sunlight requirements vary depending on the species. Some require full sunlight and may need supplemental lighting year round, while types that originate in the floor of the rainforest may need filtered light. If you aren’t sure of the variety, place your plant in moderate to bright light and avoid, direct, intense sunlight. If the leaves turn yellow or the leaf edges look brown or scorched, move the plant into lower light. Water – When growing pitcher plant indoors, water as needed to keep the potting soil moist, but not soggy. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly after watering and never let the pot stand in water, as wet soil can cause the plant to rot. Most importantly, pitcher plants are sensitive to the chemicals in tap water and benefit greatly from distilled water or rain water.
Temperature – Indoor pitcher plant care generally requires warm temperatures between 65 and 80 F. (18-27 C.) Read the care tag, however, as some varieties prefer very warm nights while others need cooler nighttime temps between 45 and 65 F. (7-18 C.) Potting soil – Pitcher plants tolerate a wide range of potting mixtures as long as the mixture is relatively low in nutrients and provides excellent drainage. Many gardeners prefer a combination of half perlite and half dry sphagnum moss. You can also use a mixture of half sharp sand or perlite and half peat moss. Avoid regular commercial mix, which is too rich.
Feeding – Pitcher plants generally require no supplemental fertilizer, although you can mist the plants with a very dilute fertilizer solution during spring and summer (mix no more than ¼ to ½ teaspoon per gallon, using a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for bromeliads or orchids). Your adult pitcher plant will be happy if it can catch a couple of insects every month. If you don’t have bugs flying around your house, provide a freshly killed insect once in a while, (no insecticides!). Use only small bugs that fit easily into the pitchers. Don’t overfeed, and don’t be tempted to give your plants chunks of meat. Remember that carnivorous plants have very low nutrient requirements and too much food or fertilizer can be deadly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are the type of carnivorous plant that sits and waits for bugs to fall into their pitcher traps. The tendril-shaped “pitchers” have a rim on the top that stops insects from climbing out once they get in. Generally, pitcher plants do not require much maintenance, but pruning a pitcher plant occasionally produces a more vigorous plant. Read on to learn how to prune a pitcher plant.
When to Prune Pitcher Plants If you are wondering when to prune pitcher plants, understand that trimming pitcher plants is not a daily or weekly task. In fact, pitcher plants can go for a long time without requiring a pruning. Sometimes, however, pruning a pitcher plant will increase its vigor and create a fuller plant, and these are the pitcher plant pruning opportunities you want to take advantage of. First, if your pitcher plant blooms, you should prune off the blossoms of a pitcher plant when they wilt, just as you deadhead other plants. This type of pitcher plant pruning is easy. You simply use a pair of garden scissors to cut off the stalk of the bloom at its base. If your pitcher plant has yellow or brown foliage, that part of the plant is dead. Trimming a pitcher plant to remove dead foliage is not difficult. You simply snip off the dead leaf at the point where it meets the stem of the plant.
How to Prune a Pitcher Plant If you are wondering how to prune a pitcher plant when only a part of a leaf is yellow, like the leaf tip, follow these instructions. Use the scissor to cut the foliage just below the yellow part so that only the green part is left on the plant. The partial leaf can still do its job absorbing sunlight for the plant. If your pitcher plant has developed long foliage that looks untidy, pitcher plant pruning is in order. To tidy up messy plants, start trimming pitcher plants back with the scissors. Prune back each stem to a reasonable length. If the plant is old and uncared for, it will accept severe pruning. Pruning a pitcher plant encourages new growth to form.
If your pitcher plant is a tropical plant known as Nepenthes, or Monkey Cup, you may wonder about pitcher plant pruning for this species. Essentially, the instructions are the same. As pitchers and leaves die back naturally, trim them off to keep the plant vigorous. Prune back the green vine stems to encourage side shoots to grow.
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