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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Fungal issues plague almost every form of plant. The sheer number of fungal organisms is staggering and most survive dormant for long periods of time. Fungal lesions on cactus may be caused by any number of fungal types, but the important things to note are what causes them to colonize and how to prevent their damage. In this way, the gardener is armed with knowledge on how to treat fungus on cactus should any disease symptoms develop. Some fungal diseases simply cause cosmetic damage while others can develop into rots that completely eat the cactus from the inside out.
Types of Fungal Damage in Cactus The vast amount of cacti species can only be outcompeted by the huge quantity of fungal varieties. Fungus spots on cactus pads are common, as in the case of Phyllosticta pad spot. It is often quite impossible to diagnose which fungal organism is causing the spots, but often that is unimportant since treatments are generally the same. A few fungi types damage the roots and eventually the whole plant, so once their visual damage is seen, it is too late for the plant. Simple topical fungal spots are much easier to combat and are usually not life threatening to the cactus provided steps are taken to control the offending fungus. Lesions on cacti may present in many different ways. They may be round, irregular, raised, flat and any other shape. Many are discolored but, again, the tones can range from yellow to brown and all the way to black. Some are corky, while others are weepy. These may ooze brown, rusty or black fluid, evidence of severe infection. The cacti most frequently plagued by fungal lesions are Opuntia and Agave. Fungal lesions on cactus usually start as water spots or slight discolorations on the plant’s epidermis. Over time, as the fungi mature and spread, the symptoms can broaden and even eat into the cambium as the surface skin cracks and allows the pathogen to enter.
Causes of Fungal Lesions on Cactus Outdoor cactus can come in contact with fungal spores in various ways. Spores may be blown in from wind, in soil or contracted from splashing water. Plants with consistently wet pads or stems are the worst affected. Conditions where rain or high humidity combine with warm temperatures promote the formation of fungal lesions. Fungus spots on cactus pads are more prevalent in the springtime. They are also enhanced by overhead watering and in areas where humidity is high. Greenhouse specimens may be particularly susceptible unless there is adequate ventilation. Condensation adds to the ambient humidity and promotes spore growth. Soil is another contributing factor. Many soils harbor fungal spores, which can persist for years until the right set of conditions occur. Even purchased potting soil may be contaminated with fungal spores.
How to Treat Fungus on Cactus Once there is a fungus affecting your cactus, it can be difficult to stop. If damage isn’t severe, a fungicide spray can usually help. If the plant is rife with lesions, it may be best to find some uninfected healthy material and start a new plant with a cutting. Use a sterile knife to take the cutting and dust it with sulfur to kill any possible adhering spores. Controlling cultural conditions with plenty of heat, under stem watering, sterile potting medium and ventilation will halt many fungal outbreaks. Another way to save a plant is to cut out the infected tissue. This doesn’t work with all fungi, but it may be effective at times. Again, sterilize your cutting implement and remove more tissue than appears to be affected to ensure all the pathogen is removed. Keep the area dry as it calluses and watch carefully for signs of reinfection.
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2017年08月17日
Nematodes are tiny, microscopic roundworms that live in the soil and feed on plants. While some are nitrogen fixing and actually beneficial, others can cause serious damage and open up pathways in plants for harmful bacteria and disease. Root knot nematodes are very common among most cactus species. Keep reading to learn more about how to detect cactus root nematodes and the best methods for managing nematodes in cactus roots.
Cactus Root Knot Nematodes Nematodes feed on plant roots by digging into the root’s cell walls with a sharp, pointed feeding tool called a sytlet. The puncture wound created by the stylet is usually more of a problem than the presence of the nematode itself, because it creates an opening that allows bacteria and fungi to enter easily into the plant, infecting it from within. Root knot nematodes are a specific kind of nematodes that feed on roots and usually create telltale fleshy masses, or “galls” on the roots. These galls make it difficult for the cactus to draw up water and nutrients properly. Since the galls form underground, it’s necessary to look for aboveground signs that your cactus is infected. The lack of adequate water and nutrients can make for a plant that’s yellowed, shriveled and stunted looking.
Treating Nematodes of Cactus The best method for root knot nematode control is prevention. If you’re planting your cacti in containers, always use new, sterile potting medium and clean any used containers thoroughly. If cactus root knot nematodes are already in your soil, it’s possible to treat with nematicides. These chemicals usually come in either granular or liquid form, and can be applied in a few different ways. Always follow the application instructions on the label exactly. It’s easier on the plant to treat soil before planting, but you can treat the soil around your established cactus this way as well.
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2017年08月17日
The desert is alive with numerous varieties of life. One of the most fascinating is the cactus longhorn beetle. What is a cactus longhorn beetle? These beautiful insects have rather scary looking mandibles and long, sleek antennae. Longhorn beetles on cactus won’t eat the plant, but their young can cause some damage. Cactus longhorn beetles live in the southwestern United States, especially in the Sonoran Desert.
What is a Cactus Longhorn Beetle? Cactus devotees and managers of cactus gardens may shudder when they see the cactus longhorn beetle. Do cactus longhorn beetles hurt cactus? The adult is not the destroyer of the plants, but rather its progeny. The insect’s favorite plants are those that are not densely spined but also haunt Chollaand Prickly Pears. If you see holes in the plant filled with a black substance, you may well have longhorn larvae inside your cactus. The cactus longhorn beetle has a hunched stance and elongated, almost horsy head. At an inch long or more, with shiny, black fused wings and huge antennae, cactus longhorn beetles look like they can do some damage. And they do, but not as much as their larvae. The feeding activity of the juveniles can severely damage even large cacti, which will soften in spots and eventually collapse in on itself as tissues are consumed. Fortunately, the insect has plenty of natural predators and is rarely an issue of high concern. In rare or valuable cactus specimens, a regimen of vigilance and control of cactus longhorn beetles is necessary to protect the plants. You can spot longhorn beetles on cactus in summer, in the early morning and at sunset.
Cactus Longhorn Beetle Info The female lays individual eggs which hatch into brown headed larvae. These burrow into the cactus, secreting a green substance into the hole which hardens to a blackened tone, securing their entry. Larvae will feed on the roots and interior tissues of the cactus. They overwinter inside and emerge in spring as adults. During the day, adults hide in the sand to keep cool. Their primary objective is to mate before they die and feed infrequently but usually on tender new growth. Occasionally, adults will feed on new shoots and plants such as Portulaca. Once you see longhorn beetles on cactus, it’s time to grab a flashlight and get to work. Grab the family and mete out some old-fashioned control of cactus longhorn beetles. While adult feeding is unlikely to destroy a plant because they feed little and live a very short life, the young who hatch and overwinter in the plant have months to liquefy the interior of a cactus. This means catching the adults before they can hatch another generation of cactus predators. Adults are easy to spot when the sun is going down or just coming up. You can easily pick them off and destroy them in whatever way your karma will allow. If that means driving them out to the desert, away from your plants, by all means do that. Most people just close their eyes and step on them.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Fusarium oxyporum is the name of a fungus that can affect a wide range of plants. It’s common in vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes, but it’s also a real problem with cacti. Keep reading to learn more about signs of fusarium wilt in cactus plants and methods for treating fusarium on cactus.
What is Cactus Fusarium? While the fungus itself is called Fusarium oxyporum, the disease that results from it is commonly known as fusarium rot or fusarium wilt. The disease usually starts in the roots, where cactus fusarium enters through tiny wounds in the plant likely caused by nematodes. The fungus then spreads upward to the base of the cactus, where signs of fusarium wilt in cactus becomes more visible. A pink or white mold appears around the base of the plant, and the entire cactus might start to wilt and become discolored, turning red or purple. If the plant is cut open, it gives off a bad, rotting smell.
Treating Fusarium on Cactus Plants Fusarium rot in cactus has no cure. Therefore, treating fusarium on cactus plants is more about prevention and damage control than it is about rehabilitation. If you find fusarium rot in cactus plants in your garden, you’ll likely have to dig up the plants and destroy them. If you catch it very early, however, you might be able to save the plant by cutting out the infected areas with a sharp knife and dusting the wounds with charcoal or sulphur dust. Cactus fusarium spreads quickly in hot, wet conditions, so try to keep your cacti as dry as possible. Always sterilize pots and use new, sterile soil when planting cacti to reduce the risk of introducing fusarium into its environment.
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2017年08月17日
A terrarium is a rather old-fashioned but charming way to make a mini garden in a glass container. The effect produced is rather like a tiny forest residing in your home. It is also a fun project that is great for kids and adults. Growing succulent plants in terrariums provides the plants with an easy care situation in which they will thrive. Because succulents do not like wet environments, a few tips and adjustments to the traditional terrarium are required. Read on to find out how to make a succulent terrarium that will keep the little plants happy and healthy.
Succulent Terrarium Instructions Terrariums and dish gardens have been a part of indoor growing for centuries. Succulent plants seem to like arid conditions and a desert or beach themed terrarium will provide the right conditions while adding some unexpected appeal in the home. Creating succulent terrariums doesn’t take a lot of time or money. You can literally make one in an old food jar or search a thrift market for an unusual dish or clear container. Then it’s time to plant and add any touches to the diorama. You can make the terrarium as ornate or simple as you wish. The original terrariums were made in elegant Wardian cases, so named for the originator of the idea, Dr. N.B. Ward. Succulents will do well in almost any container. The only trick is to make an open rather than closed system to prevent excess moisture from building up and killing the plant.
Creating Succulent Terrariums The planting medium for succulents is crucial. Succulents are perfect for terrariums because they grow relatively slowly but the condensation that may build up can kill the little plants if the right medium isn’t used. Line the bottom of the container with fine gravel or rocks. On top of this layer an inch or so of charcoal. This absorbs odors and toxins that may be in the water. Next, place sphagnum moss and top it with cactus soil that has been lightly pre-moistened. Plant the little plants in the cactus mix and firm soil around them. A dowel or stick is helpful in digging the holes and filling around plants. Space plants at least an inch apart (2.5 cm.) so there is adequate air flow. Plants may need a Popsicle stick or small stake for the first few weeks to keep them upright. Now the really fun part happens – designing the terrarium. If you want a beach theme, add some seashells or for a desert look, install some rocks to complement the succulents. There is an almost endless supply of items that will enhance the natural look of the terrarium. Some growers even add ceramic figures to add to the sense of whimsy. Just make sure that anything you are putting into the terrarium has been well washed to avoid bringing in disease.
Succulent Terrarium Care Place the terrarium in a brightly lit location but avoid direct sun which can scorch the plants inside. An area near a fan or blower is ideal, as this will increase circulation and help prevent damping off. Succulents can’t stand to be overwatered and if they are in standing water they will surely die. Your succulent garden won’t need to be watered very often. Wait until the soil is nearly completely dry before you water. Use tap water that has been off gassed or purchase purified water. Succulent terrarium care is pretty much the same as care of succulents in a pot. These plants thrive on neglect and don’t need supplemental fertilizer but once per year. Over time the succulents should fill in a bit and the whole terrarium will attain a natural appealing appearance.
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2017年08月17日
Frailea (Frailea castanea syn. Frailea asterioides) are very small cacti that rarely reach 2 inches in diameter. The plants are native to Southern Brazil over to Northern Uruguay. These little cacti are quite interesting in their form but their life cycle is even more surprising. There are several species of this genus available for home growers, but the plants are considered threatened in their native habitat. Learn how to grow a Farilea cactus and add an interesting specimen to your arid garden collection.
Cactus Frailea Information Rounded, flattish mounds of solitary to occasionally divided chocolate, purple-brown or greenish brown Frailea make interesting contrasts to other succulents. This genus is named for Manuel Fraile, who once was in charge of the cactus collection of the United States Department of Agriculture. Growing cactus Frailea is not difficult and these little plants are super starter plants for the novice gardener or just for someone who travels consistently but wants to come home to a living thing. Frailea cactus care is one of the simpler cultivation processes in the plant world. The majority of these plants grow as solitary little flattened domes. The spines are extremely tiny and arrayed along the ribs. The body of the plant may range from chocolate to reddish green with several other color variations possible. Often, the plant will produce a fuzzy white fruit that dries to a fragile, membranous capsule filled with large seeds. This fruit is often a surprise as flowers are rare and are cleistogamous, meaning they don’t need to open to produce fruit and seed. If you are lucky enough to observe a full bloom, the flower will be larger than the body of the plant and rich sulfur yellow. Growing cactus Frailea is easy from seed as germination is quick and reliable.
How to Grow a Frailea Cactus Frailea perform best in full sun but be cautious about placing them too close to a southern window where the flesh can burn. The tone of the cactus is darkest when it enjoys a full day of sunlight. This is a short lived plant that rarely exceeds 15 years before it dies back. Here’s a fun bit of cactus Frailea information. If plants are growing where no water is available, they have the interesting ability to hide in the soil. Don’t be shocked if your plant seems to have disappeared, as it is simply retracted under the soil just as it would do in the dry season in its native region. Once sufficient moisture is available, the plant swells and is again visible on the top of the soil.
Caring for Cactus Frailea Caring for cactus Frailea is a balancing act between sufficient moisture but periods of soil drying, so water is the biggest challenge in Frailea cactus care. Choose water that is free from heavy minerals. Water well once per week in summer, but in spring and autumn water only once every 3 weeks or when the soil is quite dry to the touch. The plant experiences no growth in winter and does not need water. Once per month during the growing season use diluted cactus food. In summer, you can bring your indoor specimens outside but be careful to bring them back indoors before any cold temperatures threaten. Repot every few years with a good gritty succulent soil. Plants rarely need a larger pot and are quite content to be crowded. If you spot a seed pod, crack it open, sow seed in a flat with cactus mix and keep moderately moist in a sunny location. The ease of growing cactus Frailea is a welcome surprise and is a simple way to increase your collection.
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2017年08月17日
Fishbone cactus boasts many colorful names. Ric Rac, Zigzag and Fishbone orchid cactus are just a few of these descriptive monikers. The names refer to the alternate pattern of the leaves along a central spine that resembles a fish skeleton. This stunning plant is an epiphytic specimen that can grow in low soil situations where other organic media are present. Growing fishbone cactus is easy even for the so-called “black thumb” gardener. Bring in a fishbone cactus houseplant and enjoy the crazy zigzag pattern of its succulent foliage.
Fishbone Cactus Info The scientific name for the plant is Cryptocereus anthonyanus (syn. Selenicereus anthonyanus), and is a member of the night blooming cactus family. Best known for its long, arching stems coated with serrated leaf nodes, fishbone cactus is found in its habitat in groups, which hang from trees. The plant originates in Mexico, where tropical rainforests create a moist, humid environment. It is commonly found in garden centers as Ric Rac cactus or sometimes orchid cactus. Rarely the plant will bloom with soft pink flowers that open at night and last only one day. Fishbone cactus houseplant enjoys similar growing conditions as its cousin, the orchid.
Growing Fishbone Cactus Houseplants The trailing stems offer an interesting feature for the home landscape. Choose a basket or unglazed pot for the cactus to enhance evaporation and prevent the plant from getting too wet. You can do a hanging basket, tabletop display or terrarium installation. Either way, the fishbone cactus will enhance and entertain. Use gloves when handling the plant, since it has tiny fine hairs, which will stick into skin and cause discomfort.
Fishbone Cactus Care Novice gardeners could not ask for an easier plant than a fishbone cactus houseplant. The cactus grows in low soil media, such as orchid substrate. You can also plant it in cactus blend mixed with compost to enrich the medium. Fishbone cactus thrives in indirect light but can tolerate periods of bright sun. Like most cacti, fishbone cactus houseplant does best when allowed to dry out between watering. During winter, cut watering in half and then reinstate when spring growth begins. Fertilize with a water-soluble cactus or orchid fertilizer in early spring. You can place your plant outside in spring and summer but do not forget to bring it in when temperatures cool. Best of all, the cactus will stand some neglect, so do not worry about it when you go on vacation.
Propagating Fishbone Cactus This is one of the easiest cactus plants to propagate and share with your family and friends. You just need a piece of stem to start an entirely new plant. Take a fresh cutting and let it callus on the counter for a few days. Insert the callused end into a low soil medium, such as peat moss mixture. That is pretty much all there is to it. Provide light moisture and medium light when growing Fishbone cactus stems. Soon you will have new plants to spread to your gardening family.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cereus tetragonus is native to North America but is only suited for cultivation outside in USDA zones 10 to 11. The fairy castle cactus is the colorful name by which the plant is marketed and refers to the numerous vertical stems of different heights that resemble spires and turrets. The plant is a succulent with spines that bloom yellow infrequently. Growing fairy castle cactus inside your home is an easy beginning gardener project. These delicately limbed cacti provide all the charm of the fairy tale castles for which they are named.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
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2017年08月17日
You’ve probably seen the mole plant euphorbia blooming in pastures or meadows, sometimes in a yellow mass. Of course, if you’re not familiar with the name, this may leave you wondering, “What is a mole plant?” Read on to find out more.
About Mole Plants Botanically the mole plant is called Euphorbia lathyris. Other common names are caper spurge, leafy spurge and gopher spurge. Caper spurge mole plant is either an annual or biennial plant that exudes latex when cut or broken. It has cup-shaped greenish or yellow flowers. The plant is upright, leaves are linear and bluish green in color. Unfortunately, all parts of mole spurge plant are poisonous. Please don’t mistake it for the plant that produces capers, as some have, since the poison in the caper spurge mole plant can be quite toxic. Despite its toxicity, various parts of the mole spurge plant have been used medicinally through the years. The seeds were used by French peasants as a purgative, similar to castor oil. Folklore about mole plants says the latex has been used for cancers and warts. Further information about mole plants says it is a Mediterranean native, brought to the United States for use of repelling rodents in orchards and various other agricultural locations. The mole spurge plant escaped its boundaries and self-seeded rampantly on both the east and west coasts of the U.S.
Mole Spurge Plant in Gardens If the mole plant euphorbia is growing in your landscape, you may be one of the recipients of self-seeding. Spread may sometimes be controlled by removing flower heads before they go to seed. If you’ve noticed a decline in bothersome rodents or moles in your landscape, you may thank mole plant euphorbia and continue to let it grow. Each gardener will have to decide if the mole spurge plant is an effective repellant plant or a noxious weed in their landscape. The mole plant euphorbia is not likely to be considered an ornamental by most gardeners or by information about mole plants. Learning more about mole plant can help you control it should you decide it is not needed as a repellant plant. Control of mole plant can be as simple as digging plants by the roots before they go to seed. Now you’ve learned what is mole plant and useful information about mole plant, including its uses.
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2017年08月17日
Euphorbia is a large group of succulent and woody plants. Euphorbia obesa, also called baseball plant, forms a ball-like segmented shape that is adapted to hot, arid climates. Euphorbia baseball plant makes an excellent houseplant and is low maintenance. Enjoy this information on how to grow baseball euphorbia.
Euphorbia Baseball Plant Info There is a wide array of Euphorbia species. They range from cactus-like spiny plants to thickly padded succulents and even shrubby, woody plants with veined leaves. Baseball plant was first documented in 1897, but by 1915 Euphorbia obesa was considered endangered due to its popularity, which led collectors to pirate the natural population. This rapid decline in the population led to an embargo on plant material and an emphasis on seed collection. Today, it is a widely grown plant and easy to find in many garden centers. Euphorbia plants are classified by their white milky latex sap and the cyanthium. This is the inflorescence composed of a single female flower surrounded by many male flowers. Euphorbia do not form proper flowers but develop inflorescences. They do not grow petals but instead have colored bracts which are modified leaves. In the baseball plant, the inflorescence or flower leaves behind a scar which is successively displayed on the aging body of the plant. The scarring is similar to the stitching on a baseball. Euphorbia baseball plant is also called sea urchin plant, partially due to the shape of the body, which resembles the creature, but also due to the native habit of growing on rocks and cliffs. Specific baseball plant info indicates it is a segmented spherical plant with a rather bloated body that stores water. The round plant is grayish green and grows around 8 inches tall.
How to Grow Baseball Euphorbia Euphorbia obesa care is minimal, making it the perfect houseplant for someone who travels a lot. It simply requires heat, light, a well draining soil, container, and minimal water. It makes a perfect container plant by itself or surrounded by other succulents. A good cactus mix or potting soil amended with grit make excellent mediums for growing a baseball plant. Add a little gravel to the soil and use an unglazed pot which will promote evaporation of any excess water. Once you have the plant in a location in your home, avoid moving it which stresses out the plant and can minimize its health. Overwatering is the most common cause of malaise in baseball plant. It is used to only 12 inches of rain per year, so a good deep watering once every few months in winter and once per month in the growing season is more than sufficient. Fertilizing is not necessary as part of good Euphorbia baseball care, but you can give the plant cactus food in spring at the onset of growth if you wish.
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