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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dummer. ゛☀
Maybe you’ve seen dragon fruits for sale at your local grocery store. The red or yellow collection of layered scales looks almost like an exotic artichoke. Inside, however, is a sweet mass of white pulp and tiny, crunchy seeds. If you want to grow dragon fruit at home, you’ll be rewarded not only with fruit, but also with an impressive, branching cactus vine and brilliant, night-blooming flowers. Keep reading to learn how to grow dragon fruit.
Pitahaya Information Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus), also known as pitahaya, is native to Central and South America and needs year-round heat. It can tolerate a brief frost and will recover quickly from any freeze damage, but prolonged exposure to below-freezing temperatures will kill it. It can tolerate heat up to 104 F. (40 C.). Although it is a cactus, it requires a relatively high amount of water. Dragon fruit trees are vining, and need something to climb. They are also heavy – a mature plant can reach 25 feet (7.6 m.) and several hundred pounds. Bear this in mind when building your trellis. The best choice is strong wooden beams. A decent amount of pruning and tying is necessary in training it to follow the trellis, but dragon fruit trees are fast growing and very tolerant of pruning.
How to Grow Dragon Fruit Dragon fruit trees can be started from seeds, but it may take as long as seven years for the plant to produce fruit. Because of this, the much more popular alternative is growing dragon fruit from a cutting of an already mature plant. This method could produce fruit in as little as 6 months. To propagate, cut a full segment from a mature plant. This may be anywhere from 6-15 inches (12-38 cm.). Make a slanted cut in the open end and treat it with fungicide. Then allow it to “cure” in a dry, shady place for a week, letting the open cut dry and heal. After that, you can plant it directly in the ground. You may get better results, however, if you first plant it in a pot and let it establish a good root system for 4-6 months first before transplanting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dummer. ゛☀
Collectors of succulents will be excited about Crassula pagoda plants. For sheer architectural interest, this unique plant evokes images of a trip to Shanghai where religious temples reflect the unimaginable forms of stacked architecture and astounding building prowess. Red Pagoda Crassula is an easy-to-grow plant that will add punch to any succulent display or as a stand-alone specimen. Here are a few tips on how to grow Red Pagoda and harness the impact of its structure and colorful foliage.
Red Pagoda Crassula Succulents offer a wide range of form to suit any discernible gardener. The Crassula genus has over 150 different species, each more surprising than the last. The fairly common jade plant is in the genus. Crassula pagoda plants have an even more diverse “wow” factor. The stacked triangular foliage edged with red and fine prickly spines are eye candy for the succulent enthusiast. Growing Crassula Red Pagoda is a must for the gardener crazy about succulents and collecting. Red Pagoda (Crassula corymbulosa) grows spirally arranged, thick fleshy leaves bordered with bright pink, red or sometimes orange. Once you get over the color, the geometric arrangement of the leaves will astound and amaze. The effect of the layered leaves is hard to describe without invoking artistic expression. Each new rosette of leaves grows on top of an older rosette. The new leaves are mostly green and small but they get larger and larger with brighter colors as you view down the plant’s stem. The effect is almost an optical illusion of looking into a deeply hued, ribbed tunnel. The plant is also called shark’s tooth due to the triangular serrated pads.
How to Grow Red Pagoda Soil, light and air circulation are key needs for growing Crassula Red Pagoda. The stems are initially erect but over time, as new rosettes form, it will begin to trail. This means you can grow the plant in a hanging basket. It is equally at home in a rockery, clay pot or amongst a display of other succulents in the garden. Red Pagoda is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 11 to 12 but it performs well as a houseplant, too. Plants prefer well-drained soil with plenty of grit but can survive in amended clay soil. Like most succulents, Red Pagoda is easy to grow from cuttings. Allow the cutting to callus for a few days and insert into a soilless medium. In a month or so, the plant will root and can be transplanted to a display container or the garden.
Caring for Crassula Succulents Red Pagoda gets its deepest, most vibrant color in winter in a bright location. Plants located in sun develop hues that are rich and jewel-like. The plant has low water needs but it is best to follow a regular schedule of watering in the first year to force a vigorous root system. Red Pagoda is both deer and rabbit resistant, thrives in drought conditions for short periods of time, can perform well in either full or partial sun and has low nutrient requirements. About the only thing that will kill the plant is overwatering, which causes root rot, and a few pests such as mealybugs and aphids. Remove the spent leaves to preserve the best appearance. Lazy gardeners will love caring for Crassula succulents due to their unfussy natures. Good care may see you rewarded in summer with lovely white flowers that are attractive to bees. Divide the plants every 2 or 3 years and share the gift of this unique plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dummer. ゛☀
Claret cup cactus is native to the desert areas of the American Southwest. What is a claret cup cactus? It grows wild in Juniper Pinyon woodlands, creosote scrub and Joshua tree forests. This tiny succulent is only hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 10, but you can grow one in your home and enjoy its impressive floral displays. Enjoy this claret cup cactus information and see if this plant is right for your home.
Claret Cup Cactus Information Plants of the Southwest are particularly appealing to those of us who do not live in these wild desert zones. The sheer variety and wonder of the desert landscape is a treasure even indoor gardeners are keen to experience. Claret cup hedgehog cactus is one of those desert beauties that warm, arid climate gardeners can grow outside in their landscape. The rest of us can try growing claret cup cacti as summer patio plants or indoor specimens.
So what is a claret cup cactus? Claret cup is found from California west to Texas and into Mexico. It is a desert dweller that grows in gravel soil. The plant is also known as claret cup hedgehog cactus because of its scientific name, Echinocereus triglochidiatus. The part “echinos” is Greek and means hedgehog. The cactus is small and spiny with a rounded little body, so the name is appropriate. The remainder of the scientific name, triglochidiatus, refers to the clustered trios of spines. The name literally means “three barbed bristles.” These cacti rarely get over 6 inches tall but some are up to 2 feet in habitat. The barrel-shaped form may or may not develop one or many rounded stems with bluish green skin and 3 kinds of spines. If you are very lucky, you may find one in full flower decorated with huge waxy, deeply pink cup-shaped blooms. Claret cup hedgehog cactus flowers are pollinated by hummingbirds, which are attracted to the large amount of nectar and the brightly colored blooms.
Claret Cup Cactus Care If you are interested in growing claret cup cacti, your first challenge will be to find one. Most nurseries do not grow this species and you should not purchase a wild harvested plant which encourages habitat destruction. The first rule in any cactus cultivation is not to over water. While cacti do need moisture, they are suited to dry conditions and cannot thrive in moist soil. Use a sandy potting mix or cactus mix to enhance drainage and plant the cactus in an unglazed pot to allow excess moisture to evaporate. In open garden situations, this plant will need to be watered every two weeks or as the soil is dry to the touch 3 inches down. Cacti respond well to fertilizer applied in spring and once per month in a liquid dilution during watering. Suspend fertilizing in winter and minimize water applications since this is the plant’s dormant period. Most pests do not bother claret cup cactus but occasionally mealybugs and scale will infest the plant. Overall, claret cup cactus care is minimal and the plant should thrive with some amount of neglect.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dummer. ゛☀
Many people grow Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgessii). This plant makes a great holiday gift for friends and family, so knowing how to propagate and grow Christmas cactus can help make this shopping easier and less hectic. Propagating Christmas Cactus Propagating Christmas cactus is easy. In fact, when it comes to the Christmas cactus, propagating is a great way to share this wonderful plant with others. Propagating Christmas cactus begins by simply taking a short, Y-shaped cutting from the stem tip. The cutting should consist of at least two or three joined segments. When doing Christmas cactus propagating, always be sure that cuttings are taken from healthy foliage. Allow the cutting to dry a few hours before potting it up for rooting, as to avoid potential stem rot from excessive moisture.
Rooting Christmas Cactus Rooting Christmas cactus cuttings is simple. Once you’ve taken your cutting, place the segment in a moist peat and sand soil mix. Insert the segment about a quarter of its length below the soil surface. Place the pot in a well-lit area, avoiding direct sunlight. Water the cutting sparingly at first to prevent rotting. After about two or three weeks of rooting Christmas cactus cutting, the cutting should start showing signs of growth at the tips of its leaves, which is usually reddish in color. Once your cutting has rooted, it can be transplanted into a pot with loose potting soil, preferably with a little sand or compost added. The cutting may wilt some in the beginning, but this is normal and will eventually subside once the plant has taken to its new environment. The Christmas cactus may be watered more frequently, fertilized and given additional light at this time. Christmas cactus propagating doesn’t get any easier than this.
Grow Christmas Cactus While Christmas cactus can adapt to and be grown in low light, the plant will produce more blooms with brighter light conditions. However, stay away from direct sunlight, which may burn the leaves. Don’t allow this plant to dry out completely between watering intervals. Christmas cactus also enjoys average to high humidity with temperatures hovering between 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) Placing the pot on a tray of pebbles and water can add more humidity to drier surroundings. Watering should be done frequently and thoroughly, keeping the soil moist but not saturated. Make sure there is adequate drainage provided to prevent the Christmas cactus from rotting. Apply a mild houseplant fertilizer every other week. Water and fertilize regularly in spring and summer; however, during the winter months, this plant should be kept on the dry side, withholding water for six weeks. Growing and propagating Christmas cactus can be very rewarding, especially when you give them to others during the holidays.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dummer. ゛☀
Figuring out how to make a Christmas cactus bloom can be tricky for some. However, by following the proper watering guidelines and ensuring that just the right light and temperature conditions are given, learning to force a Christmas cactus to bloom can actually be quite easy. How to Make Christmas Cactus Bloom When you want to force a Christmas cactus to bloom, you need to begin by limiting the amount of water the plant receives. This generally takes place sometime during fall, usually around October or the first part of November. Cut down on watering just enough to allow the soil to remain slightly moist. Water only when the topmost (about 1 inch) layer of soil is dry to the touch. This will enable the plant to enter dormancy. Dormancy is critical for getting a Christmas cactus to bloom. In order to further force a Christmas cactus to bloom, you’ll need to move the plant where it will receive about 12-14 hours of darkness. Bright, indirect light during the day is fine; however, Christmas cactus requires at least 12 hours of darkness at night in order to encourage bud development. Your Christmas cactus, dark conditions aside, will also need cool temperatures. This should average out to about 50-55 degrees F. (12 C.). Therefore, make sure the location will accommodate both light and temperature requirements. Care of Christmas Cactus in Bloom Christmas cactus plants should continue receiving dark, cool treatment for at least 6-8 weeks, or until buds begin forming. Once buds have formed, it usually takes up to 12 weeks (or less) for blooms to appear. The plant should also be relocated at this time. Move the Christmas cactus to a sunny, draft-free area. However, keep it away from direct sunlight, as this may cause the plant to become droopy looking. Also, drafty areas can cause the buds to drop before blooming has occurred. Giving the plant more bright, indirect sunlight will produce more blooming. Christmas cactus also bloom better as pot-bound plants. While watering may be increased during blooming, the amount will vary according to the plant’s current light conditions, temperatures and humidity levels. When you force a Christmas cactus to bloom by giving it the proper care, in the right place, receiving the right light and temperature conditions, the Christmas cactus will not only bloom but may also surprise you by continually producing blooms several times throughout the year. Knowing how to make a Christmas cactus bloom will help you to enjoy the lovely flower on this popular plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dummer. ゛☀
Because Christmas cactus plants are so easy to care for, it is not uncommon for a Christmas cactus to eventually grow to a monstrous size. While this is lovely to see, it can create problems for a homeowner with limited space. At this time, an owner may wonder if pruning a Christmas cactus is possible and exactly how to trim a Christmas cactus. Christmas cactus pruning is not just for large plants, either. Pruning a Christmas cactus, large or small, will help it to grow fuller and more bushier, which in turn results in more blooms in the future. So whether you are looking to simply reduce the size of your plant or are looking to make yours look even more beautiful, keep reading to learn more about how to trim a Christmas cactus.
When to Prune Christmas Cactus Plants The best time to prune a Christmas cactus is right after it has bloomed. At this time, the Christmas cactus will be entering a growth period and will start to put out new leaves. Pruning a Christmas cactus right after it blooms will force it to branch out, which means the plant will grow more of its distinctive stems. If you are not able to do your Christmas cactus pruning right after it blooms, you can prune the plant any time from after it blooms until late spring without doing harm to the Christmas cactus plant.
How to Trim a Christmas Cactus Because of the unique stems, pruning a Christmas cactus is perhaps one of the easiest pruning jobs there is. All you need to do to prune a Christmas cactus is give the stems a quick twist between one of the segments. If this seems a bit harsh on your plant, you can also use a sharp knife or scissors to remove the segments. If you are pruning a Christmas cactus to reduce its size, you can remove up to one-third of the plant per year. If you are trimming Christmas cactus plants to make them grow in more fully, you only need to trim the end one to two segments from the stems. The really fun thing about trimming a Christmas cactus is that you can easily root the Christmas cactus cuttings and give the new plants to friends and family.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dummer. ゛☀
You’ve been caring for it all year and now that it’s time to expect winter blooms, you find the leathery leaves wilted and limp on your Christmas cactus. You may be wondering why is my Christmas cactus limp? Correct Christmas cactus problems, such as a limp Christmas cactus, with these simple tips.
Christmas Cactus Problems Wilted or limp Christmas cactus is sometimes caused by a lack of water or too much direct sunlight. If you’ve neglected to water the limp Christmas cactus, begin by giving the plant a limited drink. Continue to water sparingly every few days until the soil is lightly moist. Soil that is too wet causes Christmas cactus problems too. As an epiphyte in its native home on the tropical forest floor, the Christmas cactus absorbs water and nutrients from the air, and as such can’t handle soggy roots. Poor drainage and soggy roots can make Christmas cactus very limp. If your wilted or limp Christmas cactus has leaves that appear to be parched or scorched, move it to an area with more shade, particularly in the afternoon.
Reviving a Limp Christmas Cactus When the Christmas cactus is very limp and soil is soggy, repot into fresh soil. Remove the limp Christmas cactus from the pot and gently remove as much soil as possible. Avoid future Christmas cactus problems by mixing your own soil for repotting. Use a good quality potting soil at two parts potting soil to one part sand or vermiculite, assuring sharp drainage. Even if the soil is not soggy, repotting may be the solution to reviving a limp Christmas cactus. While the plant likes to be tight in the pot, moving it to a slightly larger container with fresh soil every few years helps avoid Christmas cactus problems.
Results of Christmas Cactus Problems If you’re able to revive the plant, you may get winter blooms. The stress the plant has experienced may cause this year’s blooms to drop prematurely. When all your blooms drop at once, expect an outstanding show next year from what was once your limp Christmas cactus.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dummer. ゛☀
The Christmas cactus is a long-lived plant that is often passed from one generation to another. You can pretty much ignore the cactus with deep but infrequent watering and it will thrive. However, an overwatered Christmas cactus plant will succumb to root rot and that family heirloom may pass on to the compost heap. Saving an overwatered Christmas cactus requires swift decisive action to prevent this tragedy. Christmas cacti hail from the coastal mountains of southeastern Brazil. They belong to the genus Schlumbergera, which includes all the holiday cacti. Their native region receives plentiful rain much of the year, so Christmas cactus is not the classic drought tolerant desert variety. They need a good drenching, but then the soil should be allowed to almost dry out. During flowering they need to be kept moderately moist but take care not to use too much water on Christmas cactus.
Overwatering Symptoms on Christmas Cactus Any cactus that has been allowed to sit in a saucer full of water is likely to have its health reduced. An overwatered Christmas cactus plant will show obvious signs of distress. If the saucer has not dried in one day, you should always dump the excess water to prevent moisture gnats and keep the roots from rotting. In case you didn’t remember to do this, one of the first overwatering symptoms on Christmas cactus will be limp leaves, which will start to drop off. Then the stems and branches will soften and get mushy. Severe cases will manifest with a foul odor and the stem will rot completely off. Prevention is simple. Use a soil meter to keep from putting too much water on Christmas cactus. Tips on Saving an Overwatered Christmas Cactus
Tips on Saving an Overwatered Christmas Cactus Overwatering is one of the classic Christmas cactus problems, so don’t feel too bad if your plant starts exhibiting symptoms. Act fast and dump out any standing water, then carefully remove the plant from its container. Remove any stems that have started to get soft. Rinse the roots to remove any fungus that might have started to grow and then let them dry out for a day on the counter. Repot the plant the next morning and let it stay dry for a day or so before beginning a regular water regimen. If you caught it quickly enough, the plant should recover. Use your soil meter to prevent any future Christmas cactus problems, as the weakened plant might not withstand another bout of illness. Just in Case! Christmas cactus is one of the easiest plants from which to get cuttings. Choose healthy stems and root them in a glass of water or stick them into perlite or vermiculite to get roots started. Transplant them in a mixture of one part sand, one part potting mix and one part orchid bark for superior drainage. Use an unglazed pot to encourage evaporation of excess moisture. This will help ensure that you won’t have to worry again about saving an overwatered Christmas cactus. Provide full sun until a few weeks before the blooming period. Then allow it to have a dark period of at least 14 hours per day to promote flowering. Also, suspend watering for this period. Soon you will have a holiday cactus to brighten your festivities and share with friends and family.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dummer. ゛☀
Christmas cactus is a jungle cactus that prefers humidity and moisture, unlike its standard cactus cousins, which require a warm, arid climate. A winter-bloomer, Christmas cactus displays flowers in shades of red, lavender, rose, purple, white, peach, cream and orange, depending on the variety. These prolific growers eventually need to be repotted. Repotting Christmas cactus isn’t complicated, but the key is knowing when and how to repot a Christmas cactus.
When to Repot Christmas Cactus Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming. Don’t rush to repot Christmas cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant. Repotting Christmas cactus every three to four years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot a Christmas Cactus Here are some Christmas cactus potting tips that will help you find success: Take your time because repotting a Christmas cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand. Repot Christmas cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air. Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water. Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately. Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care rout
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dummer. ゛☀
When you think of cactus, you probably envision a desert with heat wavering vistas and blazing sun. You aren’t too far off the mark with most cacti but the holiday cacti actually flower better in slightly cooler temperatures. They are tropical plants that need slightly cooler temperature to set buds but that doesn’t mean that Christmas cactus cold tolerance is high. Christmas cactus cold damage is common in cold drafty homes.
Christmas Cactus Cold Hardiness Holiday cacti are popular houseplants that bloom around the holiday in their name. Christmas cacti tend to flower around the winter months and produce bright bountiful pink blooms. As exterior plants, they are only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 11. How cold can Christmas cactus get? Cold hardiness in Christmas cactus is greater than some cacti, but they are tropical. They can’t tolerate frost but they need cold temperatures to force blooms. As a tropical plant, Christmas cacti like warm, balmy temperatures; moderate to low moisture levels; and bright sun. It likes to be warm but keep the plant away from extremes such as drafts, heaters and fireplaces. Perfect nighttime temperatures range from 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15-18 C.). To force bloom, place the cactus in a cooler area in October where temperatures are about 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Once the plants are in bloom, avoid sudden temperature fluctuations which can make Christmas cacti lose their flowers. In summer, it is completely fine to take the plant outdoors, somewhere with dappled light initially and shelter from any wind. If you leave it outside too far into fall, you can expect Christmas cactus cold damage.
How Cold Can Christmas Cactus Get? To answer the question, we need to consider the growing zone. The United States Department of Agriculture provides hardiness zones for plants. Each hardiness zone illustrates the average annual minimum winter temperature. Each zone is 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 C). Zone 9 is 20-25 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 to -3 C) and zone 11 is 45 to 50 (7-10 C). So as you can see, the cold hardiness in Christmas cactus is fairly broad. That being said, frost or snow is a definite no-no for the plant. If it is exposed to freezing temperatures for more than a quick nip, you can expect the pads will be damaged.
Treating Christmas Cactus Exposed to Cold If the cactus is out too long in freezing temperatures, the water stored in its tissues will freeze and expand. This damages the cells inside the pads and stems. Once the water thaws, the tissue contracts but it is damaged and doesn’t hold its shape. This results in limp stems, and eventually dropped leaves and rotten spots. Treating Christmas cactus exposed to cold requires patience. First, remove any tissue that appears to be badly damaged or rotten. Keep the plant lightly watered, but not soggy, and place it in an area around 60 degrees F. (15 C), which is moderately warm but not hot. If the plant survives six months, give it some houseplant fertilizer that has been diluted by half once per month during its growth months. If you put it outside the next summer, just remember Christmas cactus cold tolerance doesn’t extend to freezes, so get it inside when those conditions threaten.
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