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Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
Miss Chen
On their way to a bumper crop and the envy of all who pass, your tomato plants have more than jealous neighbors as admirers. Even the healthiest tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) attract tiny white insects intent stealing their nutritious sap. The bugs' presence is unmistakeable: At the slightest disturbance, they swarm from the leaves in clouds. Fortunately, toxic chemicals aren't required to send them packing.
Meet the Whiteflies Like the pushiest of relatives, whiteflies make themselves completely at home. They come for dinner, make a mess and stay to raise their families. They resist eviction by chemical insecticide and may not leave until they've drained all the sap the plants have to offer. Three kinds of whiteflies – greenhouse, sweet potato and bandedwing -- target tomatoes, but greenhouse whiteflies are by far the nastiest. Measuring about 1/16 inch long, they feed in groups and lay eggs on the backs of the leaves. By transmitting the tomato infectious chlorosis virus, greenhouse whiteflies are capable of seriously damaging an entire tomato crop. Whiteflies also excrete undigested sap as sticky, transparent honeydew. Honeydew attracts sooty mold spores capable of burying the leaves beneath layers of black fungus. Basic Whitefly Control Inspect the tomatoes daily and prune lightly infested leaves to remove larvae and eggs. Use clean, sharp stem cutters disinfected between cuts in rubbing alcohol, and dispose of the leaves in sealed plastic bags. Rinse the adult whiteflies from the plants with a strong spray of hose water that reaches the backs of the leaves. The University of California Integrated Pest Management Program reports weekly use of this syringing technique controls whiteflies at least as well as chemical insecticides. If rinsing fails, suction adults off with a battery-operated vacuum early in the morning while they're lethargic. Freeze the dust cup overnight before emptying its contents into a sealed plastic bag and placing it in the trash.
Biological Weapons A host of beneficial bugs, including pirate bugs, lacewings and ladybugs, prey on whiteflies. To lure them to your tomato patch, layer several shallow dishes with pebbles partially submerged in water and place them around the plants. The predators come to drink and remain to eat. Keep the friendly bugs even happier by mixing some pollen-or nectar-producing herbs such as annual dill (Anethum graveolens) or perennial fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, in with your tomatoes. Off Them With Oil A persistent whitefly problem calls for organic, ready-to-use neem oil. Lethal to the whiteflies and eggs when wet, it's harmless to beneficial insects once dry. Water the tomatoes well and spray until until all their surfaces drip with the oil, making sure to coat the backs of the leaves. Repeat weekly, or at the label's recommended rate, until the plants are whitefly free. Wear protective clothing, waterproof gloves, safety goggles and a respiratory mask, and always heed the label's precautions when working with the oil.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
Miss Chen
Tomato plants are now a staple in the home garden. Tomatoes are high in Vitamin A, Vitamin C and lycopene. Lycopene helps ward off many cancers.
Origin Tomato plants originally come from South and Central America along the Andes Mountains. Wildlife readily dispersed tomato seeds throughout countries such as Bolivia, Chile and Peru. Dispersion Tomato seeds can be dispersed by birds and foraging animals. Animals excrete the undigested seeds miles away from the original plant. Half-eaten fruit was often carried and dropped miles away from the original plant. Fact The ovary of a flower grows, ripens and develops one or more seeds. This is how fruit form. Tomatoes are fruits.
History in America Tomato plants bear a strong resemblance to deadly nightshade. During Colonial Times, they were imported and grown for decoration until considered to be a human food source in the mid 1830s. Birds and foraging animals ate the tomato fruit and dispersed seed throughout North America. Culture The dispersed seeds of tomato plants grew well in areas where there was plentiful rainfall, full sun and well-drained soil.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
Miss Chen
Though tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are grown for their fruit, not their foliage, yellowing leaves should cause concern. Usually grown as annuals, tomato plants are susceptible to many diseases. Some harm only leaves, but others threaten the fruit. Causes vary, but symptoms may look and act the same. Proper care, good maintenance and quick intervention can help keep leaves green and tomatoes productive.
Leaf Spot Diseases Fungal leaf spots often cause yellowing tomato leaves. Septoria leaf spot (Septoria lycopersici) starts with small, tan-centered, dark spots. The scattered spots grow and yellow, starting with the lowest, oldest leaves and working up. Fruits are unaffected. Early blight disease (Alternaria solani), also known as alternaria leaf spot, moves the same way with dark, target-shaped spots encircled in yellow. The yellow part grows until entire leaves drop, leaving fruit overexposed to the sun. These diseases often strike together and quicken once fruit sets. Treat with ready-to-use liquid copper fungicide. Start two weeks before diseases normally affect your garden or as soon as symptoms arise. Spray all surfaces thoroughly, and repeat every seven to 10 days. Wear protective clothing and goggles when you spray. Bacterial Diseases Easily mistaken for fungal leaf spots, bacterial spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria) starts with small, greasy lesions -- without tan centers -- encircled by yellow halos that grow together. Bacterial speck (Pseudomonas syringae pv. tomato) looks and acts similarly. Both affect tomato fruit and overwinter in plant debris. Wet foliage hastens the progress of these diseases. Treat with liquid copper fungicide as with leaf spots. Bacterial canker (Clavibacter michiganensis) starts with brown leaf margins lined with yellow and then green leaf centers. It moves up one side of the plant. The yellow leaves stay attached and leaf stems stay green. Plants affected with bacterial canker should be pulled up and destroyed. Viral Diseases Tomato plants are affected by many different viral diseases that vary throughout the country. Symptoms include yellowing leaves, ring spots and yellow-green mosaic patterns that mar foliage and fruits. Viruses are spread by piercing and sucking insects, such as aphids, thrips and leafhoppers. While viruses can't be cured, controlling the insects limits the spread to other plants. A blast of water from a hose may dislodge these invaders, and stragglers treated with ready-to-use insecticidal soap. Spray plant surfaces thoroughly because the soap must cover the insects to be effective. Repeat weekly or every other week, until the insects are gone.
Soil-Borne Wilts Fungal diseases in the soil also cause yellow leaves. Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum lycopersici) affects one side of the plant or leaf, starting first with older, bottom leaves, as leaf spots do. As the plant's vascular system becomes plugged, the leaves yellow, brown and drop. Growth is stunted and fruit doesn't set. Cut stems show brown staining in the vascular pathways near the soil. Verticillium wilts (Verticillium spp.) are similar, but don't stick to one side. The plant's leaves rapidly yellow. If wilt disease is present, no fungicide will help. Avoid planting tomatoes or any related plants in that area for at least four years. Prevention and Sanitation Tomato diseases are difficult to treat and eradicate once they take hold. Prevention is an easier route. Plant disease-resistant varieties, and plant tomatoes in a different part of the garden each year. Give tomatoes good air circulation and keep soil moist, but never soggy. Improper watering causes nutritional deficiencies that add to your yellowing leaves. Water in the mornings, so the leaves are dry by night. Remove diseased plants, leaves and plant parts from the garden as soon as symptoms hit. Dispose of the leaves -- don't compost them -- and always clean all tomato debris from the garden at year's end. Strong, healthy tomatoes resist diseases and insect pests, leaving attractive foliage and fruit for your table.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
Miss Chen
We're all familiar with regular tomatoes, but what's an heirloom? If you've noticed strange-looking tomatoes--those with different colors and shapes--then you've seen an heirloom. Heirlooms have recently come into vogue among tomato lovers.
Regular vs Heirloom Hybrid (normal) tomatoes are selected for their yield, resistance to diseases and shelf life. Heirlooms are prized for their diversity of color, shape and flavor and come from plant seeds that are at least 50 years old. Definition The consensus for heirloom status is that the cultivar (variety) must be at least 50 years old. Many heirloom cultivars have been passed down through several generations of a family. History The renewed interest in heirlooms started in the 1970s. The term refers to varieties that were often unique and limited to only a few gardens.
Seed Diversity In industrial agriculture, only a few varieties of a given food crop are grown due to the efficiencies that come with uniformity. Partisans of heirlooms view themselves as champions of world food diversity. Which Are Better? There is no clear-cut winner here; however, everyone agrees that tomatoes are best eaten right off the vine. Heirlooms have commanded premium prices, but some attribute this to snob appeal.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are tender plants that can't withstand a heavy frost, but slightly frosted plants may recover. Usually grown as annual plants, tomatoes can grow year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. At 40 degrees Fahrenheit and lower temperatures, tomato plants' leaves, stems and fruits suffer damage, but you can help save the plants by protecting them from further frosts.
Saving Young Plants
Young tomato plants are especially vulnerable to cold weather. Signs of frost damage include soft and discolored stems and leaves, and sunken leaf spots that are tan to brown. The spots usually appear between leaf veins. If the damage isn't extensive -- affecting only leaves' outer edges for example, then the plants probably will recover. Move the plants to a frost-free area if they're in containers, and cover plants in the ground with sheets of fabric if more frosts threaten. If the stems below the lowest leaves are discolored and soft, then little hope exists for the plants. Discard them and immediately sow or buy new tomato plants for a crop that year. Rescuing Mature Plants
You may be able to save mature tomato plants that suffered a late frost. The average annual last frost date is only a rough guide to when to expect the late frost, and sometimes late spring or early summer frosts catch gardeners by surprise. If your mature tomato plants have frost damage, inspect them carefully. Those that collapsed completely can't be saved, and you may have to rely on kind neighbors for homegrown tomato fruits that year. If, however, your mature plants are still standing, tidy them by removing their frost-damaged leaves. Pinch or prune them at the nearest point where healthy tissue begins. Wipe the blades of the pruning shears in rubbing alcohol before and after pruning to help prevent the spread of pests and diseases. Protecting Them from Frosts
If your tomato plants survived a light frost, then keeping an eye on the weather forecast and protecting them the next time frost is expected should be worth the effort. Water the tomato plants' soil the evening before a frost, and cover the plants with newspapers, old bedsheets, fabric tarps, floating rows covers or a similar material before the sun sets. Spread the material over the tomato plants' stakes, and don't allow the material to touch the plants because touching reduces the level of frost protection. An option to protect young tomato plants is to wash and cut the tops off plastic milk containers and place the containers over the plants before the night's frost. Remove the containers the following morning when the frost has thawed; doing so will prevent the young plants from heating in the sun's rays. Harvesting Tomatoes After a Frost
The growing season for tomato plants is a few short months in some areas of the United States, but you can harvest tomato fruits up to and just after the first fall frost. Tomato plants produce best when daytime temperatures are 70 to 75 F during the day and 65 to 68 F at night. At temperatures below 60 F, production slows or stops, and the plants don't grow or produce when temperatures are cold enough to develop frosts. After the first fall frost, harvest all the fruits. Cut off all the fruits' frost-damaged parts and eat the undamaged portions fresh, or save undamaged fruits to eat as green tomatoes or to allow to ripen. Green tomatoes will ripen when spread in a single layer in a dark, airy location where the temperature doesn't fall below 55 F. Fruits from a frosted tomato plant shouldn't be canned because they may be unsafe.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Miss Chen
You can plant more tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) in a garden when you support them with stakes or wire cages than if you let them sprawl on the ground. Because tomatoes require a soil temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit to plant from seed, most gardeners transplant nursery seedlings. How far apart you space plants also depends on the type of tomato, because some varieties need more space.
Spacing and Tomato Varieties Determinate tomato varieties eventually form a cluster of flowers at their tip and stop growing taller. They are easier to grow and control and their tomatoes ripen earlier. Indeterminate tomatoes, including nearly all older and heirloom varieties, grow larger vines with a larger, more flavorful crop of late-maturing tomatoes. Indeterminate cultivars need to be planted farther apart than determinate or dwarf cultivars. Most people treat tomatoes as annuals but they will technically grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Spacing Staked Tomatoes If you train your tomatoes to grow on stakes you'll get larger tomatoes and they'll ripen earlier, but you'll get fewer of them and they're more likely to suffer from sun scald. Plant staked tomatoes 2 feet apart in rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart. Dwarf tomatoes will only need 12 inches between plants. To give yourself enough room to harvest tomatoes, space vigorous indeterminate cultivars 4 feet apart and space rows 5 to 6 feet apart. Spacing Caged Tomatoes Plant caged tomatoes 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart in rows separated by 4 to 5 feet. Determinate tomatoes are best suited to cages. Prune the plants so that they will have from three to five stems. Especially vigorous indeterminate tomatoes will require larger cages, fewer stems in each cage and more space between plants and rows.
Spacing Tomatoes in Intensive Gardens Plants in intensive gardens are spaced so their centers are an equal distance from one another. Tomatoes are especially suited to intensive gardening because they can be trained to grow vertically on stakes, cages or trellises. Space tomatoes 12 to 18 inches apart in an intensive garden.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Miss Chen
Though generally grown as warm-season annuals, prized for their fast growth and juicy, sweet fruit, tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are technically frost-tender perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Wilting in a tomato plant can be a symptom of several problems. Perk up your droopy tomatoes so you can continue to enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Water, Water, Everywhere Tomatoes are 90 percent water. Thus, dehydration can lead to significant fruit loss and stunted growth. If you notice a plant wilting and the soil is dry, drought stress is likely the chief culprit. Tomatoes typically need watering once every four days in light, sandy soil and once a week if grown in heavier soil. When watering tomatoes, always use enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Deep watering encourages the plant to extend its roots farther into the soil, increasing plant vigor and lowering risks of future drought stress. To conserve soil moisture, consider spreading mulch around the base of the plants, but keep mulch from touching the stems. Sprinkle Some Salt It may sound unconventional, but salt may do the trick. If you notice wilting, stunted leaf development and yellowing, the tomatoes may be suffering from a magnesium deficiency. Epsom salt is a naturally rich source of magnesium and may boost tomato growth and make the plant greener and more lush. Mix a tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon of tap water, pour it into a spray bottle and mist the solution onto the tomato plants. Coat all exposed surfaces of the plant evenly. Check for Pests Tomato plants occasionally suffer from pest infestations, and this may cause plant stress, wilting, leaf drop and fruit loss. Common tomato pests that cause wilted foliage include aphids and whiteflies, which suck on the plant's juices. Aphids appear as little green, black, red or brown spots on the plant. Whiteflies, as their name implies, are tiny flies with a dusty white appearance that tend to group on the underside of leaves. Both pests can be managed by spraying tomato plants with a strong blast of water from a backyard garden hose. This dislodges and kills pests and can keep pest populations at a level low enough that they don't cause lasting harm to the tomatoes.
Or, try an insecticidal soap. Make your own at home by mixing 5 tablespoons of liquid dish soap in a gallon of water. Spray the soapy solution onto affected portions of the tomato plant. The solution kills aphids and whiteflies on contact. Repeat once a week as needed. Fight Fungus Inspect the wilted foliage. If you see brown or black growths on the leaves, the tomatoes may be suffering from a fungal infection. Such problems are best controlled and prevented with proper sanitation. Wipe a pair of pruning shears with rubbing alcohol to sterilize it, then snip off any affected stems and leaves that have mold or other fungal growths. Once you remove diseased plant parts, prevent future disease by monitoring your tomato care practices. Change your watering practices to ensure you're only watering at the base of each tomato plant, since overhead irrigation and damp foliage makes leaves susceptible to disease. Always use mulch, as that prevents soil from splashing up on your tomatoes which can increase the risks of plant disease. Finally, the next time you plant tomatoes, plant them in a new section of your backyard and space them farther apart to ensure proper air circulation among the plants. Ideally, plants should be approximately 2 feet apart.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes from your own plant taste so much better than anything you purchase at a grocery store. You do not need to have a garden, or even a plot of land, to grow a tomato plant. You can even grow tomatoes on your screened porch.
Growing Tomatoes in Containers Growing tomato plants in containers that have drainage holes is often better than growing them in the ground. That is because you can make sure of the quality of the soil, the level of watering required and can monitor and eliminate pests. Screened porches can be an ideal location for your tomato plants, particularly if you live in a region that gets intense heat during the summer, which tomatoes do not tolerate well. One of the most important considerations when contemplating growing your tomatoes on a screened porch is the amount and quality of sunlight the area receives. Tomatoes need at least six hours of sun per day. If your screened porch is on the shady side of your home or has wide, overhanging eaves that prevent sunlight from entering any part of your porch, your tomato plants will not flourish. The opposite is also true if your screened in porch receives too much hot, intense sunlight, such as at midday. Your tomatoes may wilt or become sunburned. In this case, you may need to partially shade your porch where your tomato plants will grow. Another consideration deals with pollination so your plant will produce tomatoes. Tomato plants do not need bees and such to pollinate; each plant has both male and female flowers. But the plant does require that there is at least slight breezes or air movement to allow the pollen to travel from one flower to the other. If you are lacking in breezes, you can always gently shake your plants every day or so to simulate this.
Selecting the right variety of tomato can help in growing tomatoes successfully on your screened porch. The preferred type is called a patio tomato because they have been formulated to grow in containers and produce an abundance of fruit. But other varieties can also successfully be grown on your porch. From cherry tomatoes to the beefsteak variety, many types can be grown in containers. Visit your local garden center, describe your location, particularly the light, and what you want to use the tomatoes for, to a salesperson and let her assist you in selecting the right plants.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Miss Chen
Biting into a sweet, succulent cherry tomato is one of the joys of summer, and somehow it tastes even better when you grew it yourself. Cherry tomatoes are not difficult to grow in a home garden, but just because cherry tomatoes are petite doesn't mean the plants are; like many tomato cultivars, some cherry tomato plants have a tendency to sprawl, and there are many good reasons to tidy them up. With some basic pruning techniques, you can trim back your cherry tomato plants fairly quickly, and get back to enjoying your summer salad.
Types to Prune Tomato plants fall into one of two types: determinate and indeterminate. They are determinate if they form a terminal, or top, flower cluster, which is what causes them to stop growing in height. Because they grow to a fixed size and produce a fixed number of cherry tomatoes, determinates should not be pruned, although you should remove the shoots below the first flower cluster. Plants with lateral flower clusters, and no terminal, are indeterminates; their fruit ripens more slowly, and they will keep growing until killed by frost. These are the type of cherry tomato plants which should be pruned. Indeterminate cherry tomato cultivars include Super Sweets, Sweet Million, Large Red Cherry and Yellow Pear; determinate varieties include Tiny Tim and Mountain Belle. Benefits of Pruning Prune your indeterminates to maximize the efficiency of photosynthesis and minimize disease. In the process of vigorous growing, they send out "suckers", or shoots, that come from the main stem and can turn into main stems themselves, which send out more shoots. Although this makes the plant produce more fruit, the benefit is outweighed when the main stem can no longer bear the weight and the plant sprawls on the ground. This is not only unsightly but destructive; as fruit falls in the dirt, it is exposed to damage from insects and viruses. On the other hand, a pruned and supported single-stem tomato plant has all its fruit in the air, its leaves exposed to the sun, and flavor-enhancing sugar going to the developing fruit, since the plant is only growing at the tip. The cherry tomatoes will be larger and tastier, and will form more quickly. In addition, the leaves dry off faster when it the plant is pruned and supported, reducing the risk of bacterial and fungal infections.
Pruning Techniques Prune the cherry tomato plant to one or—at most—two main stems, and remove lower branches to deter splashback reinfection of pathogens left in the dirt from previous years. Pinch the new suckers soon after they appear. The best way to do this is with your fingers, twisting the sucker until it snaps off; this results in a more desirable break from the stem than would occur with the use of scissors. If you've let suckers grow too long and they are hard to snap off manually, use a retractable knife. Avoid sun scald by leaving enough leaves to cover and protect the tomatoes, and prevent fungal infection by never pruning a wet tomato plant. Keep cherry tomatoes free of side stems below the first fruit cluster.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月21日
Miss Chen
Most corn plants yield one to two ears of corn, depending on the cultivar. Corn is an annual plant, so once the ears have been harvested, it will not produce more corn. Early Varieties of Sweet Corn
Early maturing sweet corn varieties will on produce one ear of corn per plant. Early-maturing sweet corn varieties start producing within 60 to 80 days after planting. These plants will produce only one ear of corn per plant. The quality of the ear will depend on various conditions, including temperature during pollination and water availability during growth. Later Maturing Sweet Corn
LAter maturing varieties will produce two ears. Later-maturing varieties of sweet corn will produce two ears, with the second ear being of inferior size and quality to the first. Mid-season and late-season varieties of sweet corn mature within 79 to 95 days after planting. Field Corn Varieties
Field corn produces one to two ears per plant. Field corn, which is produced for such items as corn oil and silage, produces one to two ears of corn per plant. Ear size is larger than that of sweet corn, but it is of poor quality. Some varieties of field corn can produce six to 10 small ears of corn per plant.
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