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Miss Chen
2017年11月11日
Miss Chen
The hardy and versatile Concord grape is one of the most popular grapes to grow in US gardens. You can eat them fresh off the vine, or make jams, jellies or wine with them, and they are commercially used to make grape juice. They better tolerate the colder weather of the northern states and are more disease resistant than some other varieties.
Step 1 Mulch your vines generously each spring and keep them free of weeds. Step 2 Water grape vines infrequently, but heavily, as they have deep root systems. Don't water when the soil is moist, but when it begins to dry out. Step 3 Cut the vines back in the first year to two or three strong buds, each of which will grow into a cane. Several shoots and an abundance of leaves will grow, which will encourage the vine to develop a strong root system. In the second year, remove all but two of the strongest canes from each vine, and allow three to four shoots to grow from each.
Step 4 Tie the canes to a four- or five-foot tall stake in the first year. You'll need to build a trellis to support them in the following year, as grape vines don't stand up well on their own and are prone to disease when they grow on the ground. The simplest trellis, according to the University of Minnesota (see references), is the Kniffen system: Set posts in the ground on either side of the vine, between 16 and 24 feet apart. Stretch two wires horizontally between these posts. The first should be 36 inches above the ground, and the second 60 inches. Support the vine by keeping it tied to the stake, and then to the wires as it grows. Step 5 Remove flowers when they form for the first two years--the vines are not strong enough to bear fruit. You can also thin the vines by removing some of the flower clusters in the following years. Step 6 Prune during the dormant season, beginning in the third year. Pruning prevents the vine from becoming too dense, and also allows you to control the quantity of grapes. When too many grapes develop, they will be small and may not ripen. When branches reach the wires of the trellis, either remove them or cut them back to two buds. Step 7 Concord grapes are ready for harvest some time between Labor Day and the first frost. When you think they are ready, taste them. If they are sweet and flavorful, and no longer tart or sour, the grapes are ready to pick.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月11日
Miss Chen
Grapes can be grown for many end products, including jam, jelly, juice, wine and fresh eating. They can be grown in many climates, depending on the variety. Each variety has assets and weaknesses and you should do some research before choosing which variety to plant. An extension educator or nursery employee can help you make a decision. Locally owned nurseries usually carry varieties that are suited to the local climate, so your biggest decision is finding one that will suit your needs.
Step 1 Choose a site for planting the grapes. The site should provide full sunlight and high temperatures, so avoid north-facing slopes, shaded areas and low-lying areas. The soil should be well-drained, but grapes can thrive in a variety of soil types. Step 2 Cut off all the canes except the most vigorous one. Step 3 Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending the roots, as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. The vines should be planted as deep as they were planted in the nursery. Vines should be planted six to eight feet apart.
Step 4 Cover the roots completely with soil, and fill the hole to the same level the soil was in the nursery. Step 5 Cut the one remaining cane back so only two strong buds remain. Step 6 Train the strongest cane onto a trellis or strong pole that is about five feet tall. Step 7 Cut back any suckers that appear at the base of the plant. The March after planting, cut back the weaker cane. If neither cane is three feet tall, cut both canes back, leaving two buds to sprout. Step 8 Apply nitrogen two weeks after planting at a rate of one pound of 10-6-4 fertilizer per plant. Reapply at the same rate early every spring before new growth begins. Step 9 Train plants to grow vertically on a stake, then horizontally on wires stretched between posts, or on a trellis. Use flexible ties, such as cotton strips, to loosely attach the vines to the wires or trellis. If using two wires, prune all growth between the wires, so the only horizontal growth is along those two wires. Step 10 Train tender varieties, or those that are not cold-hardy, to grow similar to cold-hardy varieties, but prune them to one strong trunk that you will remove from the trellis every fall. Step 11 Bend the trunk down and cover with six to eight inches of soil or mulch. Do this for tender varieties in the fall after foliage has dropped. Step 12 Uncover the grapevines in early spring, mid-April in colder climates, and tie them back onto the support. Step 13 Pick the grapes when they are ripe. Determine ripeness by taste more than color because the color will change long before the grapes are ready for harvest. They will not continue to ripen once picked.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月11日
Miss Chen
Pruning grape vines produces a healthy fruit harvest. If you do not prune the grape vines, they will grow too much foliage and not produce fruit. Grape vines are mature when they are at least 3 years of age. Prune your grape vines in the winter months to encourage new growth in the spring. Once you prune the grape vines, you can train them to grow on arbors or trellises so that they do not take over your yard or garden.
Step 1 Remove leaves on the ground around the grape vine. This will prevent insects and birds from invading the grape vines and keep the vines healthy. Step 2 Prune away any tangled vines. The tangled vines will prevent the grape vine from producing grapes. Place the tangled vines in a compost bin or trash bag. Step 3 Remove shoots growing between the trellis wires. This will encourage the vines to continue to grow on the wires. Cut these shoots at the base near the main stem. Step 4 Cut away secondary shoots, also known as suckers, from the main cane's base. The suckers take energy away from the grape vine.
Step 5 Prune the canes to leave four on each side of the vine. Keep two young canes on each side that appear shiny and smooth to keep the grapevine producing fruit. Remove older canes when they begin to crack and peel. Step 6 Prune the spurs on the main canes. Leave two to three of the bud spurs. Prune them by spacing them apart 4 to 6 inches.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月11日
Miss Chen
If you have a small yard or live in an apartment, growing grapevines in pots is the perfect solution. According to the Fruit Expert, the best indoor varieties are Black Hamburgh and Thompson’s Seedless. The grapes that the vine produces can be eaten or left as food for birds. Growing grapevines in a container is a basic task, but the pot can become heavy to lift and move as it grows. Place the pot on a board with wheels. This will allow you to move the pot easily wherever and whenever you want.
Step 1 Find a pot that has at least an 18-inch diameter and is at least 1 foot deep. Make sure there are drainage holes at the bottom of the container. Step 2 Pour 1 inch of gravel in the bottom of the pot. Step 3 Mix equal amounts of potting soil and perlite. Fill the pot halfway with the amended potting soil.
Step 4 Remove the grapevine from its container. Gently tease them free if the roots are growing around the rootball. Step 5 Place the grape’s rootball in the center of the container. Step 6 Fill in with the amended soil around the rootball. Tamp the soil down to remove air bubbles. Leave at least 1 inch between the surface of the soil and the rim of the pot. Step 7 Place a stake into the pot close to the rootball. Push it in so it rests on the bottom of the pot. Position the stake so the grapevine has something to grow against and provide support. Tie the branches to the stake with twist ties, string or strips of cloth as the vine grows. Step 8 Water the grapevine to keep the soil moist, watering every two or three days. Cut back on watering during the dormant season. Stick your finger 1 inch into the soil. Water the vine when the soil feels dry. Step 9 Feed the grapes a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 early in the spring. Read and follow label directions.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Miss Chen
Strawberries are a favorite summer fruit for many people. Growing strawberries in a home garden takes some effort, but after two or three years, well-maintained strawberry plants can produce a large harvest. Plenty of sun is one requirement for healthy strawberry plants.
Planting hands planting strawberry credit: luna4/iStock/Getty Images A woman planting strawberries on a cloudy day Plant strawberries on a cool day with plenty of cloud cover. Excessive sun exposure or heat will damage new plants and stunt their growth. Strawberries are best planted in early spring. Choose a bed with full-sun exposure. Growing Season Strawberry bush in the garden credit: voltan1/iStock/Getty Images Strawberries growing in a garden During the growing season, strawberries need full sun. At least six hours of full sun a day are required for healthy growth. Better fruit and stronger plants result from 10 hours of sun daily.
Container Planting strawberries plants credit: sanddebeautheil/iStock/Getty Images Moving a strawberry plant from a container into a wooden box Strawberries also grow well in containers. If you grow strawberries in containers, set your plants outdoors for at least six hours of full sun. If weather or climate prevents this, use a grow lamp to give your strawberries six to 10 hours of light a day.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Miss Chen
Strawberries, unlike many other fruits, grow on plants close along the ground, and put out their own runners for propagation. In Arkansas, strawberry plantings are split into two seasons.
Fall Planting Many commercial growers plant their strawberries in the fall, to allow the plants to take root and establish over the winter for early spring blooming. When planting in fall, it's important to cover the strawberries with organic or plastic mulch to protect them through the winter. Spring Planting Most home gardeners choose to plant strawberries in the spring instead, for a more natural growing season. Spring plantings in Arkansas take place mid-April, when the ground has thawed to 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and is welcoming to young strawberry plants.
Location and Planting Strawberries require plots that receive full sunshine all day, every day, to take advantage of the lush Arkansas warmth. The plants cannot tolerate crowding or wet feet, so in swampy areas of Arkansas, it's important to raise the beds or mix natural soil with plenty of quick-draining soil and compost.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Miss Chen
Pests are attracted to garden strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) as much as people are, but companion plants help keep pests at bay. Strawberries grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8 and as annuals in warmer zones. Companion plants for strawberries deter and distract pests, and host beneficial insects, but they don't compete with strawberries for light or nutrients. Space strawberries and their companions according to their final growth dimensions.
Herb Choices Strawberries thrive in gardens with annual and perennial herb companions. Borage (Borago officinalis) helps strawberries resist insects and diseases, and common thyme (Thymus vulgaris) deters worms, according to a Michigan State University Extension in Kalamazoo County article. Borage is an annual herb that grows 12 to 36 inches tall and 9 to 18 inches wide; it bears bright-blue, star-shaped flowers in summer. Common thyme, which is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, grows 6 to 12 inches tall and wide, and bears tiny, lilac flowers from late spring through early summer. Another herb companion for strawberries is oregano (Origanum vulgare). Hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9, oregano varieties range from low, spreading mats to upright, bushes. They bear pink, purple or white flowers. Vegetable Selections In the vegetable patch, strawberries' companion plants include onion (Allium cepa), lettuce (Lactuca sativa) and spinach (Spinacia oleracea). Growing 12 to 18 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide, onion is grown for its flavorful, aromatic bulbs and leaves; it is harvested as an annual crop. Lettuce and spinach grow 6 to 12 inches tall and wide; they are annual plants. Lettuce varieties include romaine, iceberg, loose leaf and butterhead. A cool-weather vegetable, spinach is an upright plant with leaves rich in iron, phosphorus and vitamins A, B and C. Grow strawberries and vegetable companion plants in alternate rows for their maximum benefit.
Annual Flowering Varieties Annual flowering plants attract beneficial insects to strawberries they are near. Nasturtium (Tropaeolum spp.) grows 1 to 10 feet tall and 1 to 3 feet wide, depending on the species and cultivar, and bears cream, yellow, orange or red flowers with a spicy fragrance in spring through fall. Marigold (Calendula officinalis), growing 1 to 2 feet tall and wide, bears chrysanthemum-resembling, deep-orange to yellow, early summer flowers that bloom through fall in cool climates. Both of these annuals grow readily from seeds sown directly in the ground just before the average final frost date, and they reseed in favorable conditions. Perennial Flowering Options Strawberries are productive ground-cover plants in garden borders with perennial companions. Pincushion flower "Butterfly Blue" (Scabiosa "Butterfly Blue") and speedwell "Foxy Lady" (Veronica "Foxy Lady") thrive in the same full-sun sites and moist, well-drained soil in which strawberries do well. Hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, "Butterfly Blue" grows 12 to 18 inches tall and wide. It bears 2-inch, lavender-blue, pincushionlike flowers spring through fall and into winter in mild climates. "Foxy Lady," which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8, grows 12 to 18 inches tall and 9 to 12 inches wide. It produces 12- to 15-inch spikes of fuschia-pink and white flowers in summer.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Miss Chen
Strawberries can survive in any region throughout North Carolina. The plants thrive in full sunlight; do not plant strawberries in a low-lying area prone to a spring frost.
Time Frame Strawberries require different planting times for specific regions of North Carolina. Plant strawberry plants during March in the eastern part of the state; in the western part of the state and in the mountains, plant them in late March to April. Harvest In eastern North Carolina, strawberries are ready for harvest starting in April. If you plant in the western part of the state, anticipate growth in early May, while mountain strawberries are ready for harvest at the end of May. Pick strawberries in the morning, while they are still cool.
Soil Test the soil four to six months before planting. Strawberries will thrive in a soil with a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5. If the pH balance is low, raise it by treating the soil with dolomitic lime.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Miss Chen
Adventurous Arizona gardeners don't let the state's challenging conditions keep plump, juicy strawberries (Fragaria spp.), hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, from their planting lists. The diverse climate and soils simply mean that strawberries need some extra TLC. Growing zones in the state stretch from USDA zones 4b through 10, with average winter lows ranging from minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit to 40 F. Whatever your region, proper planting gets Arizona strawberries started right.
Site Selection Even in Arizona's low desert, unexpected frosts can damage tender strawberry blossoms and steal spring crops. The earliest flowers produce the largest berries, so protection is important. Plant strawberries on elevated slopes, where cold air drains away and lessens chances of frost damage. Cooler, north-facing slopes generally prompt later blooms, which gives an added buffer against bloom loss. Strawberries fruit best in full sun locations, but low-desert berries need protection from intense sun. Locations near homes provide frost protection, but avoid west-facing walls that reflect Arizona heat. Soil Adjustments Strawberries prefer well-drained, low-saline, organic soil with neutral to slightly acidic pH near 6.5. Most Arizona soils are alkaline and saline, with little organic matter. Without adjustments, strawberries suffer nutrient deficiencies.
Test your soil, and follow test recommendations explicitly. Most Arizona gardens need pH lowered for strawberries, but some have acidic soil. Because Arizona soils contain calcium carbonate, common pH-lowering products, including sulfur, don't often work. Using the wrong amendments or the wrong amounts can leave soil toxic. Don't guess; test. Layer 2 to 3 inches of organic compost over the planting bed, along with 1 pound of 12-24-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Wear protective clothing, including gloves and goggles, and mix the layers in 8 inches deep. Avoid manure-base compost, which may add salts. Planting Time Plant Arizona strawberries in late winter or spring, after the last average frost date for your region passes. In Arizona's low desert, this happens in February. Mountain regions wait until June. Trim roots to about 6-inch lengths, and keep them moist at all times. Use sharp garden scissors or pruners, and sterilize the blades with household disinfectant before and after you trim. Planting depth is critical. Bury roots, but keep the plant's crown exposed at the soil's surface. Planted too low, strawberries rot. Planted too high, crowns dry out. Space strawberry plants at 12- to 18-inch intervals, and water them thoroughly. Initial Care Remove all flowers the first season, so strawberries focus on roots, not fruits. When new growth begins, broadcast 1/2 pound of 21-0-0 ammonium sulfate per 100 square feet. Wear protective clothing, and scratch the fertilizer in lightly; leave roots undisturbed. Water thoroughly, washing any fertilizer from leaves. Drip irrigation suits Arizona strawberries. Overhead watering promotes disease, fuels weed growth and wastes water to evaporation. A layer of organic mulch, such as pine needles or straw, helps retain soil moisture, inhibit weeds and keep soil cool. Strawberry roots generally stay in the soil's top 6 inches. The shallow roots need consistent moisture of at least 1 inch per week. Water every three to five days, with up to 2 inches of weekly water during hot weather. Berry Selection With Arizona's diversity, match berry types to elevation. Strawberries fall in three main groups: June-bearing, everbearing and day-neutral. Runner-producing June-bearing strawberries flower and fruit early. If frost nips them, your crop is lost. They suit lower, warmer elevations with few late frosts. Cold-hardy, Minnesota-developed "Mesabi" June-bearing strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa "Mesabi," USDA zones 3 through 8) does well in high-pH Southwest soil. Multicrowned everbearing strawberries have few runners, but produce smaller crops in spring and fall. Autumn harvest still follows if spring frost hits, but everbearers struggle in low-desert heat. Higher, cooler elevations suit them best, but offer shorter growing seasons. Vigorous "Ogalla" everbearing strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa "Ogallala," USDA zones 3 through 9) withstands arid conditions well. Day-neutral strawberries flower and fruit all growing season, with fewer runners and smaller berries. Their flowers fail once temperatures go above 70 F. They do best in Arizona's foothills and moderate elevations. Disease-resistant "Tribute" day-neutral strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa "Tribute") tolerates alkaline soil and does well in short growing seasons.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes require a deep root system to help pull water from the soil and keep full plants structurally sound. Helping the plant create a deep root system starts at planting. Deep root growth is increased in tomatoes when the seedlings are set deep in the soil, given plenty of water and given adequate space between plants. Tomatoes with deep root growth are more likely to also have an increase in fruit production over shallow-rooted plants.
Deep-Growth Benefits Roots that grow deep below the plant help support the above-ground stem and branches. Deep roots are also able to maximize water absorption. Plants with shallow roots have an increased risk of drying out, developing fruit that forms poorly and developing stems that can't support heavy fruit production. Planting Depth Planting tomato seedlings deep into the garden soil increases the depth of root growth. The ideal depth for root growth on an mature plant is at least 18 inches, even though the main portion of the root system is found in the first 12 inches. To obtain this depth of root growth, dig a planting hole that allows you to set the seedling so the first set of true leaves are just above the soil line. Additional roots will form off the portion of stem that is below the soil level for a sturdy and deep-set plant. Soil Factors Loose garden soil assists in root growth by providing less resistance. Work the soil with a tiller or spade to a depth of 18 inches before planting the seedlings. Soil with a high clay content should be amended with compost to increase the organic content. High clay soils pack easily and are not ideal for deep root growth.
Care Considerations Deep root growth requires some work on your part. Water tomato plants regularly to keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season. Healthy plants will not only grow tall, but also deep into the soil. Tomato plants that are in the fruit-producing stage require more water, up to 1 gallon per day. It is also ideal to set the plants 18 to 24 inches apart so they have adequate room for healthy and deep root growth.
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