Seed catalogs are out, (check our post on our seed catalog recommendations) and soon dedicated gardeners will be choosing what #plants to #grow this year from seed. We have some choices that make the experience a lot easier, with less frustration than you may have experienced if you have tried to grow plants from seed before. Choosing plants to grow from seed can be hit and miss, especially for the novice. Some plants are extremely difficult even under professional growing standards. However, luckily, there are many great #garden plants that are easy to start from seed, either indoors, or outside after the last frost. I am sticking to flowering plants for this one, as vegetables are a whole new subject…but just for the record, except for tomatoes, most common veggies are easy to grow from seed!
Annuals to Start from Seed I am starting with the category of annuals. Annuals are plants that flower or fruit and then die in one season. They can be some of the easier plants to grow from seed. Many of them can be planted directly in the ground after the last hard frost, and don’t need an indoor seed starting set up. (Which really isn’t that hard, but does take some room. See our post on indoor seed starting.) You can find out the last frost date for your area by going to the National Climatic Data Center. Remember, these are just averages, watch your local conditions and forecasts.  Here are our top annuals to grow from seed… all of these can be directly planted in the garden after frost, unless otherwise noted. However, for earlier blooms and fruit, you can start them indoors ahead of time. Sometimes I start them just a week or two early to give them a head-start, but I don’t have to create a lighting set up, and it takes up all that room for only a short time. Cosmos – Tall flowering plant, with large daisy like blooms that go all summer. Great for cutting, don’t like to be transplanted so better direct sown. Full sun to partial shade. These look best used in broad swaths of color. They reseed readily, which I love. Purples, pinks and whites.  Not very drought resistant, but not water greedy either. Do well in poor soil. Basically, you could toss out a handful of these, water in and wait! That easy!
  Nasturtium – Great for spilling over containers. Yellow, orange and creams in a flowering plant, that is edible as well! Prefers some afternoon shade in hot climates. Some people like to soak the seed in water overnight, then direct plant in the ground, cover with a light layer of soil and water. Some great new varieties avaiable!
  Sunflowers – I don’t even have to tell you how to plant a sunflower, but did you know that there are many, many different varieties? Dwarf or tall, bushy shrub like plants, or the more traditional stalk. Colors from bright yellow, to wine, to white. Large heads to dozens of tiny flowers. Pull out one of the garden seed catalogs we recommended, they all have great choices!
  Annual Fountain Grass (Pennisetum) – Grow an ornamental grass to update your garden! This one has narrow leaves and grows about three feet tall and two wide. It may reseed. Sun.
  California Poppy – Another one that is as easy as tossing onto some soil and watering in! Although I grew up in California and have fond memories of the bright orange blooms and ferny foliage along roadsides and highways early every summer, you might want to grow my favorite, California Poppy Rose. Pink in color, almost as easy to grow as the orange. Sun, drought resistant. Perfect for a cottage style garden.
  Finally, who could leave out the old fashioned, but well loved Zinnia. Great for cutting, easy to grow from seed, pretty in the garden. Make sure you don’t water in the evening, as they can be prone to mildew. Keep cutting them and you will keep getting blooms! My fav is Zinnia Envy, a green variety that looks fantastic in any floral arrangement, and freshens the garden. Looks great with white.
  Perennials to Start from Seed Perennials are flowers that bloom and grow each season, only to go dormant in the winter and come back each spring. These usually bloom a little less than average the first year grown from seed. You can get a jump on the bloom by starting them indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost. However, these picks can be direct sown outdoors as well, and enjoyed season after season. Have patience with them ,while they will reward you with blooms the first year, it will be year two and three that they fully come into their own. This can be the most economical way to start a garden, so have fun with this! Yarrow – Easy to grow from seed, yarrow gives you broad heads of blooms all summer long. Yellow, pinks and red varieties are available. Drought resistant. Ferny foliage looks great in the garden. Cut back after flowering to encourage re-bloom. Make great dried flowers.
  Coneflower – Coneflower has become the trend plant the last few years with dozens of new varieties appearing on the pages of the catalogs. Originally a wildflower of the prairie states, it is tough, disease resistant, easy to grow and gives you some gorgeous flowers heads, many of unusual shape to add to your garden form. My fav? Last year we grew Pow Wow Wildberry…love it!
  Coreopsis – More daisy like flowers, but on compact plants… and they bloom their heads off! work great in containers as well. Yellows, pinks and bi-colored, great in a hot border.
  Pinks (Dianthus) – Pinks are charming, low growing cottage style flowers, that blanket the ground with pink, red or white blooms. Easy to grow from seed, some varieties bloom all summer, others give you one spectacular bloom in late spring. Some are fragrant, and all are beautiful! Tough little plant, likes some afternoon shade and even watering.
  Shasta Daisy – Big, gorgeous white flowers all summer. Can be direct sown outdoors after frost, but they need light to germinate, so just press into soil and water, don’t cover. Old fashioned favorite that is practically care free. Cut flowers back when they get ragged to keep it blooming all summer.
Those are our top picks for best plant to start from seed, so this year, get a plan going! And plant those seeds!

I don’t like the idea of adding chemicals to our environment, whenever it can be helped. And let’s be honest… If you are growing your own veggies, you are probably after some of the health benefits, right? Ok, and then there is the cost factor as well… why wouldn’t you make your own #organic fertilizers for your garden, instead of buying expensive specialty products? It is easy, it is healthy for both your family and the earth at large, and it is cost effective.
Basically #plants need three major nutrients to thrive, Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K). You might see these displayed on commercially made fertilizers in number form, for example, 10-5-5. Nitrogen is necessary for leaf and green growth, Phosphorus for flowers and fruit, and Potassium for gemeral health of the plant. That having been said, plants need a lot of other nutrients as well, called Micronutrients. Some of these include Magnesium, Calcium and Sulfur. Plants are also affected by the acidity of a soil, and the biodiversity of bacteria that creates a healthy environment, all of which can be improved with organic fertilizers. Now that you have the basics down of why we are doing this, let’s get down to some simple recipes for our choices for top organic #garden fertilizers you can make!
Coffee Grounds Fertilizer Coffee grounds is a natural fertilizer that not only adds nitrogen to poor soil, it also increases the acidity of soil. This will especially make your roses, hydrangeas, magnolias and rhodies happy! Work up to 25% coffee grounds into soil at the base of the plants. Coffee grounds will also improve the organic matter in the soil. Banana Peel Fertilizer High in potassium, phosphorus and calcium,  banana peels are great for flowering and fruiting plants. Simply bury a peel under the ground at the base of the plant, and allow to decompose. You can also freeze overripe bananas that you would have otherwise thrown away, and then bury next to a needy plant when needed. If you prefer to make a spray, soak a peel in water for 2-3 days, then use the water to spray plants or seedlings. Epsom Salt Fertilizer Epsom salt is available at your local drug store, and adds important magnesium and sulfur to the soil. Especially good for tomatoes and roses, Epsom salt tea is great for starting seedlings and reducing transplant shock as well. Known for giving plants a deep green color, especially on magnesium low soils, this is a simple and quick recipe. It is pretty impossible to over do this fertilizer, as it breaks down in to a simple magnesium component. Recipe 1 Tablespoon Epsom Salt 1 Gallon water Use from a watering can for both indoor and outdoor plants. Can also be mixed into the soil around plants at a rate of 1 tablespoon for every 1-2 feet in height of plant. Water in well. Egg Shell Fertilizer Egg shells are very high in calcium, which is necessary for good cellular growth in all plants. If you have ever had blossom end rot on your tomatoes, then you probably have calcium deficient soil. You can crush up used egg shells and just bury them beneath the surface of the soil, or for a faster response, you can make a spray. Recipe 20 egg shells 1 Gallon Water Boil the egg shells in the water for a few minutes, then let them sit in the water overnight. Strain and use as a spray or water from a can directly into the soil. Grass Clippings Tea Here is a great way to get a high nitrogen fertilizer, and use up those annoying grass clippings at the same time! Recipe 1 Five gallon bucket filled with fresh grass clippings. Cover with water Allow to sit for 3-5 days. Dilute the strained fertilizer tea by using one cup tea mixed with 10 cups fresh water. Pour onto soil. Compost Tea Made in exactly the same way as grass clippings tea, but with organic compost. This gives a much richer tea with a variety of nutrients, perfect for any plant. So spend a little time setting aside some egg shells and coffee grounds, or drop by the drugstore for some Epsom salts. You will be saving yourself some cash, and creating a healthier environment for your plants, and the planet!

Starting a small #garden with your child or grandchild is an excellent way for children to learn to learn how to care for the environment and gain an appreciation for the many birds and insects with whom we share our gardens. Tending a garden also serves as an introduction to the changing weather patterns and the seasonal cycles of nature from planting the seed, harvesting (e.g. eating the vegetables, picking and drying the flowers or collecting the seed) and then preparing for the next season. They also learn an important life lesson in responsibility. If they don’t water and nourish the plants they can die through lack of attention.
If you can, With your child decide what kind of garden your child would like – butterfly, herb, flower, vegetable etc. To make the project more fun and real buy child sized gloves, planting tools, wheelbarrow and watering can. Sketch a plan for the garden and mark off the area in the garden. Maybe a flower garden around a playhouse or a small vegetable patch they can call their own. Turn the soil breaking up any lumps and condition with organic compost if necessary.
If you don’t have a suitable area of ground use container pots, planter boxes, or even an old half wine barrel will do. Children can get interested in gardening from a very young age and with a little encouragement discover this fun hobby while enjoying the two things they love – dirt and outdoors. With very young children it is easier to grow flowers directly from seed. The roots on seedlings easily become damaged as they take them from the pots and transplant into the soil.
Let children choose their own plants and look for easy germinating types such as Cosmos, Snapdragons or the all time favourite Sunflowers. Bulbs are also a great favourite amongst young children but they can be typically impatient waiting for the bulbs to sprout and grow. For vegetables – carrots, peas and strawberries tend to be a favourite as they are easy to grow and great to eat. One study found that when four-and five-year-olds spent about 30 minutes a week for eight weeks tending a garden, they were more likely to eat their vegetables. A challenge for most parents. Create a garden journal and take photos as the project progresses so your child will have something to remember over the winter months until the next season begins.

Of all the plant pathogens, the ones you will deal with mostly are fungi. All plants are susceptible to attack from fungus. Most #fungi love wet conditions, and overwatering can produce such conditions.
If the soil your plant is rooted in does not drain well, and water stands too long at the base and around the roots, then your #plant is at risk of developing water mold root rot, a condition that is caused by a variety of fungi. The fungi start a rot that invades the roots and then works its way up the plant. This can be a quick or a slow process, depending on conditions. Often, after the rot is established, you will see dark discolorations in the plant’s roots and stems. This is where the infected plant tissue meets the healthy tissue. The following is a list of potential problems and common symptoms caused by fungal diseases. Damping-off: This disease can kill seedlings before they even break through the soil, but it also strikes seedlings just an inch or so tall. Root Rot: This generally attacks older plants, killing the tiny rootlets and appearing above ground as stunting and wilting. Club Root: This disease commonly infects cabbage family plants, causing large swellings on roots and or dead plants. Blights: Includes early and late blight, which attack tomatoes and their relatives. The fungi can damage or kill leaves and cause rot in the fruit. Mildews: This would include downy and powdery mildew. Infection results in spots or white patches on leaves, shoots, and other plant parts. Downy mildew can kill plants rapidly; powdery mildew commonly causes poor growth and lower yield, but seldom kills the plant. Rusts: This disease will produce orange and white spots, usually on leaves and stems, weakening plants and reducing crop yields. Leaf Spot: These symptoms are caused by a wide range of fungi. How to Minimize Fungal Problems Fungi spread by spore production, giving the disease the ability to travel great distances. The spores can be picked up by animals or water, including gardeners! One of the best ways to prevent fungal problems is to select plants that are resistant to the fungal diseases in your area. After treating plants with fungal problems, rinse your gardening tools with alcohol or bleach, in case any spores remain, and destroy any diseased leaves rather than leaving them on the ground or placing them in your composting bin. Organic Fungus-Killing Sprays
Instead of treating areas with chemical powders, you can use organic fungicides made straight from products in your kichen. Here is a list of some safe and easy to make sprays: Basic Soda Spray 2 Tablespoons baking soda 1 gallon water Add 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil (adds stickiness) Mix all together and spray on problem areas. Soda Spray for Rust 2 tablespoons baking soda 1 gallon water 6 tablespoons of vegetable oil 2 tablespoons kelp extract Mix together and spray rust-covered areas.   Garlic is known to fight many types of disease-causing fungi, including mildew, mold, and rust. Garlic has not only shown that it can fight fungi but it also has some repellant qualities for other diseases and insects. Basic Garlic Spray 1 garlic bulb 1 quart water Crush the garlic and place in a pan of water, bring to a boil, then turn off heat. Let the mixture cool. Strain out the garlic. Pour liquid into a spray bottle and spray the infected areas of the plant. Vinegar Spray Apple cider vinegar makes a great spray to combat many fungal diseases, including black spot on roses. 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 1 gallon water. Mix together. Spray plants, being sure to do so in the morning so that the plant can dry out before evening. Nothing spoils the look of a plant or shrub more than a fungus disease. Hopefully, by using some of the methods described in this article, you will be able to keep your plants looking healthy!

All too often, soil composition is neglected. Every season, our plants and gardens rob the #soil of it nutrients. All gardeners are to be custodians of the soil, taking the time to replace food and other elements as they are used. Since our soil is so important, we need to treat it, as we want to be treated, not like dirt. Soil is a composition of weather-beaten rock, minerals, decayed plant materials and other organic ingredients. All this takes a long time to develop, but can be damaged by our action or neglect in a single season. For soil to be healthy, it should contain a balanced mix of air, water, nutrients, and organic matter. There are a couple things we can do to protect this mixture. Adding organic matter on a regular basis is probably one of the most important things we can do. Adding compost and animal manure can do many things, for instance: Increases the soil’s capability to hold nutrients. Makes food available to plants over a longer period of time. Lessens the amount of nutrients lost by erosion or leaching. Provides micronutrients that are needed by plants in small amounts. Releases nutrients already in the soil by increasing the action of beneficial microorganisms. Increases the water-holding capacity for sandy soils. Increases the drainage of clay soils. Saves money.
Do not apply fertilizer to #lawns until we get a good soaking rain, and for best, safest, long-lasting results use organic fertilizers. The wet soil puts the nutrients into a solution and helps distribute the nutrients to the plant roots to be absorbed. The ability of soil to drain water is important. However, when you read phrases like “plant in a well-drained soil” or “does not like wet feet”, they are talking about the plant’s need for air. The roots of plants require oxygen and any soil that is waterlogged will be lacking oxygen. Many plants will put up with high moisture-conditions during the growing season, but when the plants are dormant, the same conditions may kill them. By improving the drainage, the plant will have a better growing environment. Another problem is soil becoming compacted by tractors and other equipment or just by tilling it year after year. You will find soil compaction in most soils, from gardens to farm fields. Tilling the soil when it is too wet will clump and ruin the composition of the soil. This condition takes a long period of time to bring it back to health. To tell if the soil is too wet take a handful and squeeze it, if it crumbles in your hand then it is ready to till but if it clumps then it is too wet. Some people now believe that tilling at all is not good for the structure of the soil. It exposes the helpful microorganisms to the environment and they are destroyed.
However, gardeners may wonder if it is best to till the garden in the fall or spring. Tilling the soil in the fall has advantages over springtime. When spring arrives, it allows for earlier planting since the basic soil preparation is done. Tilling in the fall allows a large amount of organic matter to be turned into the soil and start decomposing because the microbes are active currently. An excellent source of organic matter is the fall leaves. Try tilling a thick layer of leaves into the soil this fall and by spring, it will have decomposed. Sowing a cover crop, like winter rye, is very beneficial by adding valuable nutrients and organic matter when tilled into the soil the following spring. Fall tilling will disrupt the bad insects, diseases, and weeds, reducing their population. Fall is a good time to test your soil and should be done every couple of years. In conclusion, doing all the previous steps should be done the organic gardening way. It is back to basics when it comes to gardening.

Once July and August roll around in the garden, it’s really common for the “bloom to come off the rose” so to speak. In other words, our gardens can get a little bedraggled, and our gardening inspiration can get a little tired… Here are some great tips for your tired summer garden to freshen the look, and brighten your gardening spirit as well!
It’s Time for a New Do Midsummer many plants have already bloomed, and tend to get a little lanky with the hot days. Almost every flower and herb can use a good haircut right about now. Spring and early summer bloomers can be cut back to one third their height. Fall bloomer, just cut a couple inches off the tops to help them grow more compactly and set more buds for fall blooming. If your plants are in bloom right now, take a pair of clippers and trim off the dead and dying blooms. This is called “deadheading” and will force the plant into setting more flowers, not setting seed. Give your plants a good deep watering with a liquid fertilizer and wait for more blooms and refreshes foliage in a couple of weeks! Green it Up! Lawns need another dose of fertilizer in July. Pick a cool evening and consider using an organic fertilizer. They build the soil and create a healthier lawn long term. Not to mention, they are better for the environment and not harmful to kids and pets.
Go Surfing Online that is. You need an inspirational project to remind you of the connection you have with the living things in your garden. Pinterest is the place to find great ideas. Even if you never get one of the projects done, the time spent looking at photos of beautiful outdoor spaces will help you feel inspired to spend more time in yours. Beat the Heat If it’s too hot outside to be in the garden like you were in the spring, don’t use that as an excuse. Schedule time for yourself to have breakfast or tea in the garden earlier in the day, or build a fire pit and plant fragrant containers to enjoy it at night.
Color your World Many flowering perennial plants are in a down cycle in midsummer, so pick up some inexpensive blooming annuals and pot them up for a quick and bright pop in focal areas of your garden. Check out your local nursery for what works best in your area, but Verbena is one of my favs… takes the heat and blooms like crazy! If you have planters with spring blooming pansies that have seen better days, switch them out for new annuals better equipped to take the heat. So don’t let the midsummer gardening blues hit you or your garden. Use these tips to revitalize your summer garden and keep you inspired. Fall is right around the corner, and what a beautiful time in the outdoors!