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张祥明
2017年09月14日
张祥明
[图片]#龙吐珠 为何掉叶 其实啊龙吐珠掉叶子这一状况是非常正常的，花友们不必过分紧张，而且这种情况一般发生在秋季，也就是入冬前后。虽然龙吐珠是一种常绿植物，但是寒冷的冬季来临时，它也会掉落一些叶片，就像冬青这种绿化植物，等到春季来临和万物一起复苏，萌发出新的叶片。 一般来说龙吐珠叶片脱落的原因就是因为季节的转换，是一种正常的生理代谢表现。花友们不必大惊小怪，遵循正常的养护管理就行了。 [图片]非生理掉叶怎么办 还有一种情况是因为大家没有采用正确的浇水办法，也就是浇水过多也会导致龙吐珠叶片的掉落，这种情况有一个明显的辨别办法就是观察掉落的叶片是不是先变黄再掉落的，如果是那铁定就是因为你浇了太多的水了，所以此时应该立即停止浇水，并采取措施尽快让花盆的土壤不要过于湿润。 虽然叶片掉落也不是什么大问题，只不过就是会给爱干净的花友们带来一些小小的麻烦罢了，毕竟在家里还是要保持干净卫生一些，及时的清理掉满地的叶子，也会给大家的生活带来心情上的美丽不是嘛。
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张祥明
2017年09月14日
张祥明
[图片]原因及处理方法 想知道#龙吐珠 开花少怎么处理，就要先知道是什么原因导致它开花少，对症下药才能立竿见影。下面就来根据龙吐珠开花少的原因具体学习下相应的处理方法。 浇水不当 龙吐珠开花少的一个重要原因就是因为花友们不合理的浇水措施，症结就在于大家总是怕植株干燥，所以浇了很多水，所以问题就出在了这里。花盆内由于太过于湿润，长期的浸泡导致地上部的叶片逐渐变黄从而脱落，然后就影响了正常的开花。这时花友们就要立即停止浇水，等待盆土边干，然后调整科学的浇水量。 [图片]阳光不够 龙吐珠是一种依赖光照的花卉，生长期和开花期都要保证光照足够的多，阳光一旦不能满足植株需求，就会导致地上部茎枝的疯狂徒长，自然影响力正常的育蕾和开花数量。所以花友们要遵循一个光照的养护原则，就是在除了夏季以外的三个季节，都要保证龙吐珠的充分光照。 养分缺乏 还有一种导致开花少的原因就是植物缺乏肥料，所以在龙吐珠的生长期一定要记得追加一些薄点的水肥，周期大概是30天左右一次，一共是三次即可。 注意事项 养龙吐珠看似简单，但是不细心的话，花就养不好。尤其是到了冬天，一定要按照要领操作，这样家里的龙吐珠才能花开的更好。
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Widely distributed throughout the United States, bacterial canker is most common on cherries and plums, but may also affect apricots, peaches and many other kinds of stone fruits. Suspect this plant disease if sunken, water-soaked or “gummy” lesions form on the trunk or twigs. When trees begin active growth in the spring, a sour smelling sap may ooze from these wounded areas. The cankers become darker than the surrounding healthy bark, and the underlying tissue is reddish-brown to black and moist.[图片]Note: If cankers girdle the branches or trunk, the leaves above the diseased area curl and turn yellow. Growth stops and the branch or tree will eventually die. The bacterium that causes canker, Pseudomonas syringae, enters trees through injured bark or an existing wound, such as a pruning cut on a twig or branch. Frost damage in the spring may promote additional infections. Bacterial canker infections occur during fall, winter and early spring (during cool, wet weather) and are spread by rain or water, and pruning tools. The bacteria overwinter in active cankers, in infected buds and on the surface of infected and healthy trees and weeds.[图片]Treatment Prune flowering trees during blooming when wounds heal fastest. Remove wilted or dead limbs well below infected areas. Avoid pruning in early spring and fall when bacteria are most active. Treat all pruning cuts immediately with Tanglefoot® Tree Pruning Sealer and make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment — one part bleach to 4 parts water — after each cut. If using string trimmers around the base of trees avoid damaging bark with breathable Tree Wrap to prevent infection. Brush bark with white latex paint diluted with water to reduce bark-damaging temperature fluctuations. Research has shown that copper fungicides have some success against this stone fruit problem. However, results are inconsistent. We recommend using it as one part of a total management program.[图片]Remove weeds and grass from around the base of young trees to improve air circulation and keep the trunk and crown dry. Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of diseases on ornamentals, turf, fruit and more. Mix 1/3 to 3/4 oz per gallon of water and paint or spray over pruning wounds and surrounding areas.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
A serious disease of apples and ornamental crabapples, apple scab (Venturia inaequalis) attacks both leaves and fruit. The fungal disease forms pale yellow or olive-green spots on the upper surface of leaves. Dark, velvety spots may appear on the lower surface. Severely infected leaves become twisted and puckered and may drop early in the summer.[图片]Symptoms on fruit are similar to those found on leaves. Scabby spots are sunken and tan and may have velvety spores in the center. As these spots mature, they become larger and turn brown and corky. Infected fruit becomes distorted and may crack allowing entry of secondary organisms. Severely affected fruit may drop, especially when young. Apple scab overwinters primarily in fallen leaves and in the soil. Disease development is favored by wet, cool weather that generally occurs in spring and early summer. Fungal spores are carried by wind, rain or splashing water from the ground to flowers, leaves or fruit. During damp or rainy periods, newly opening apple leaves are extremely susceptible to infection. The longer the leaves remain wet, the more severe the infection will be. Apple scab spreads rapidly between 55-75 degrees F.[图片]Treatment Choose resistant varieties when possible. Rake under trees and destroy infected leaves to reduce the number of fungal spores available to start the disease cycle over again next spring. Water in the evening or early morning hours (avoid overhead irrigation) to give the leaves time to dry out before infection can occur. Spread a 3- to 6-inch layer of compost under trees, keeping it away from the trunk, to cover soil and prevent splash dispersal of the fungal spores. For best control, spray liquid copper soap early, two weeks before symptoms normally appear. Alternatively, begin applications when disease first appears, and repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals up to blossom drop.[图片]Bonide® Sulfur Plant Fungicide, a finely ground wettable powder, is used in pre-blossom applications and must go on before rainy or spore discharge periods. Apply from pre-pink through cover (2 Tbsp/ gallon of water), or use in cover sprays up to the day of harvest. Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of diseases on ornamentals, turf, fruit and more. Apply as a soil drench or foliar spray (3-4 tsp/ gallon of water) to prevent and attack fungal problems.[图片]Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Generally found in the eastern part of the United States, anthracnose is caused by fungi in the genus Colletotrichum, a common group of plant pathogens that are responsible for diseases on many plant species. Infected plants develop dark, water soaked lesions on stems, leaves or fruit. The centers of these lesions often become covered with pink, gelatinous masses of spores especially during moist, warm weather. Anthracnose can reduce a beautiful harvest into rotted waste in just a few days.[图片]The fungal disease overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden debris. Cool wet weather promotes its development, and the optimum temperature for continued growth of the spores is between 75-85˚F. Moisture is required for development and germination of the fungus as well as for infection of the plant. It is spread by wind, rain, insects and garden tools.[图片]Treatment Choose resistant plant varieties when possible and use western grown seeds which have not been exposed to the disease. If this fungal problem is common, do NOT save your own seed from plantings. To avoid spreading the disease, keep out of gardens when plants are wet and make sure to disinfect all garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use. Do not compost infected leaves, fruit or stems and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall, after harvest, to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.[图片]Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects. Liquid copper sprays and sulfur powders should be applied weekly, starting when foliage begins to develop in the early spring and continuing throughout the growing season. Spray early in the day, and avoid applications during hot weather. Seeds may also be treated prior to planting. Neem oil spray is an organic, multi-purpose fungicide/insecticide/miticide that kills eggs, larvae and adult stages of insects as well as prevents fungal attack on plants. Apply early, at the first sign of spring budding, every 7-14 days as a preventative measure or on a 7-day schedule until existing problems are eliminated.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Common in home gardens across North America, wireworms (up to 1-1/2 inch long) are tough slender worms with shiny skin and three pairs of legs just behind their head. They are yellow to brownish-red in color and feed entirely underground, attacking germinating seeds, roots, bulbs and tubers. Damaged plants soon wilt and die. If infestations are heavy, thin and patchy crops may appear in the garden and reseeding will most likely be necessary.[图片]Note: Wireworms are the larval stage of click beetles. Approximately 1/2 inch long, these brown to black colored, bullet-shaped beetles are notable for their ability to click and right themselves when placed on their backs. Life Cycle Wireworm larvae and adults overwinter in the soil. In early spring female beetles emerge from the soil, mate and lay eggs underground. Hatching takes place in 2-4 weeks, and the young larvae begin working their way through the soil in search of food. Larvae feed underground for 2-6 years with most of their damage occurring in early spring when soil temperatures are cool. Pupation occurs in late summer and adult beetles emerge in the spring. One generation per year, the life-cycle requiring 1-6 years to complete.[图片]Wireworm Control Thorough cultivation of the top 6- to 8-inches of soil makes conditions unfavorable to the egg laying adults and exposes all stages of the pest to weather and natural enemies. Potatoes make great wireworm traps. Cut a potato in half and run a stick through the middle. Bury the spud about one inch deep so that the stick stands vertically as a handle. Pull the traps out after a day or two and discard wireworms. Crop rotation is especially important to the organic vegetable grower because it can help reduce many pest problems that lead to the use of pesticides. Apply beneficial nematodes when planting to attack and destroy developing pests in the soil.[图片]EcoSMART Organic Insect Killer can be used around home foundations, lawns and landscapes (ornamental and flower gardens). Apply 2-5 lbs over 1000 sq ft every 2-4 weeks or as needed. Birds can consume large amounts of larvae. Encourage them by hanging houses and feeders near your garden. Soil drenches containing the botanical insecticide pyrethrin are somewhat effective, but should only be used as a last resort.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Common on houseplants and in greenhouses, the whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum) is a sap-sucking insect that is often found in thick crowds on the undersides of leaves. When infested plants are disturbed, great clouds of the winged adults fly into the air. Both nymphs and adults damage plants by sucking the juices from new growth causing stunted growth, leaf yellowing and reduced yields. Plants become weak and susceptible to disease. Like aphids, whiteflies secrete honeydew, so leaves maybe sticky or covered with a black sooty mold. They are also responsible for transmitting several plant viruses.[图片]In southern and coastal states whiteflies are found year-round in outdoor gardens. In northern areas year-round infestations are possible only indoors. Host plants include more than 250 ornamental and vegetable plants. Citrus, squash, poinsettia, potato, cucumber, grape, tomato and hibiscus are commonly infested. Adults (1/16 inch long) are moth-like insects with powdery white wings and short antenna. They are easily recognized and often found near the tops of plants or on stem ends. Wingless nymphs are flattened, oval and almost scale-like in appearance. After the first instar, or crawler stage, they settle down and attach themselves to the underside of leaves and begin feeding.[图片]Life Cycle Young nymphs overwinter on the leaves of host plants. In late spring adult females deposit 200-400 eggs in circular clusters on the undersides of upper leaves. The eggs hatch in 5-10 days and first instar nymphs, which resemble small mealybugs and are called crawlers, move a short distance from the egg before flattening themselves against the leaf to feed. The remaining nymphal stages (2nd, 3rd and 4th) do not move. A non-feeding pupal stage follows and within a week, young adults emerge to repeat the cycle. There are many generations per year. Whiteflies develop from egg to adult in approximately 25 days at room temperature. Adults may live for one to two months. Note: All of the immature stages are easily overlooked. They are usually pale, almost translucent, and blend with the color of the leaf to which they are attached. Superficially they are similar to several scale insects.[图片]Whitefly Control Yellow sticky traps are helpful for monitoring and suppressing adult populations. If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers. Natural predators of this pest include ladybugs and lacewing larvae, which feed on their eggs and the whitefly parasite which destroys nymphs and pupae. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived organic pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control. Safer® Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed. Organic Neem Oil can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adults. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.[图片]Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
Common throughout North America, the tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is one of the most destructive pests of tomato, potato, pepper, eggplant and tobacco plants. They consume entire leaves, small stems, and sometimes chew pieces from fruit. Despite their large size, hornworms are often difficult to spot because of their protective coloring. Growers will often find large areas where feeding has occurred before they see this garden pest. Damage is most often noticed in midsummer and continues throughout the remainder of the growing season.[图片]Likely to be the largest caterpillars you’ll see in the vegetable garden, tomato hornworms (3-4 inches long), are green with seven diagonal white strips and a black or red horn projecting from the rear. Adults are large (4-5 inch wingspan), heavy-bodied moths. They are gray or brown in color with white zigzags on the rear wings and orange or brownish spots on the body. Also called a sphinx or hawk moth, they fly quickly and are able to hover like a hummingbird. Tip: To find the larvae hidden among plants, look for black droppings (frass) on the leaves and ground and spray the foliage with water. The caterpillars will thrash about and give away their hiding spots.[图片]Life Cycle Overwintering occurs in the soil as dark brown pupae. Adult moths emerge in late spring, mate and deposit spherical green eggs on the underside of leaves. In 5 days hatching begins and the larva passes through five or six stages before reaching full growth in 3-4 weeks. These larvae eventually burrow into the soil where they transform into the pupal stage. Adults develop in 2-4 weeks and work their way to the soil surface, where they mate and begin laying eggs for the next generation of hornworms. There are two generations per year. Tomato Hornworm Control Because they are so large hornworms are most often controlled in home gardens by handpicking. Once removed from the plant, they can be destroyed by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water.[图片]Beneficial insects including lacewings, braconoid and trichogramma wasps and ladybugs attack the eggs. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control. Both Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis, var. kurstaki) and Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) are very effective, especially on the young caterpillars (larvae).[图片]If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting organic insecticide. For best results, apply to the undersides of leaves and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide. Roto-tilling after harvest destroys overwintering pupae in the soil. This is especially effective since pupae are large and not buried very deeply in the soil. Results have shown that greater than 90% mortality is caused by normal garden tilling.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
A common pest found in greenhouses and indoor/ outdoor gardens, thrips damage plants by sucking their juices and scraping at fruits, flowers and leaves. Plant leaves may turn pale, splotchy, and silvery, then die. Injured plants are twisted, discolored and scarred. Adults are very small (less than 1/25 inch) straw-colored or black slender insects with two pairs of feathery wings. Without the use of a hand lens, they resemble tiny dark threads.[图片]Damage Extremely active, thrips feed in large groups. They leap or fly away when disturbed. Host plants include onions, beans, carrots, squash and many other garden vegetables, and many flowers, especially gladioli and roses. Both adults and the wingless larvae are attracted to white, yellow and other light colored blossoms and are responsible for spreading tomato spotted wilt virus and impatiens necrotic spot virus. Life Cycle Adults and pupae overwinter in garden soil. In spring, newly emerged females insert eggs into the tissues of flowers, leaves or stems. (They do not need to mate for reproduction.) Each female can produce up to 80 eggs, which hatch within days in warm weather or weeks to months in colder weather. They become wingless larvae (nymphs), which feed on plant sap. After two or more nymphal stages, many thrips drop to the soil to pupate. Emerging adults fly to the plant and repeat the cycle. There may be 12-15 generations per year with the entire cycle from egg to adult requiring less than 16 days in warm weather.[图片]Control Thrip management is a matter of garden maintenance — reducing the places where thrips may breed — and requires removing plant debris while it’s still on the ground and green. Thrips lay their eggs in slits they cut in live plant stems. Vigilance — spotting problems early and responding to them — is also required. Check your plants for damage and clusters of the pests at the place where leaves are attached to stems. Don’t wait to take action. Take the measures listed below. And be sure to use the safest, most proven products. To get rid of thrips remove weeds and grass from around garden areas to eliminate alternate hosts. Clean up crop debris in the garden, especially onion leaves after harvest. (Dry mulch will not attract thrips. Green mulch will.) Inspect all plants you import into the garden for signs of thrips or their damage. Discard any infested plants by securely bagging and putting in the trash.[图片]Blue sticky traps are helpful for monitoring adult populations. If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong, encompassing spray of water to reduce pest numbers. Release commercially available beneficial insects, such as minute pirate bugs, the effective thrips predator (feeds on eggs and larvae before they can become adults), ladybugs, and lacewing, (especially effective in green houses) to attack and destroy all stages of this pest. For best results, make releases after first knocking down severe infestations with water spray or other method. Severe populations may require a least-toxic, short-lived botanical insecticide (pyrethrin) to reduce pest numbers. Follow-up with predatory insects to maintain control.[图片]Safe, smothering insecticidal soaps made from naturally occurring plant oils and fats, are also effective for knocking down heavy infestations (and won’t harm most naturally occurring beneficial insects). Spinosad and neem oil can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Dummer. ゛☀
There are hundreds (and hundreds) of different types of stink bugs. But it’s the Asian newcomers, first found in Allentown, Pennsylvania in 1998, that get all the attention. That’s because they’ve quickly spread across the country. And they’re infamous for swarming inside the walls and other places in one’s house.[图片]But they’re not alone. Stink bugs native to North America were causing problems for growers and releasing strange odors long before the non-native types invaded. Most are sap suckers that damage and weaken plants. Not picky, the pests feed on fruits, vegetables and vegetation. They’re present, in greater or lesser numbers, all through the growing season. The family Pentatomidae to which these garden pests belong, contains some 900 genera and over 4700 species. More common types include brown, green, rice, Southern and dusky stink bugs. Other family types include shield bugs and chust bugs. Most are identified by their shield, the hardened part of their thorax that gives them the appearance of being armored.[图片]Coloring can be solid or mottled and can range from brown and black to bright green with red or orange trim. The widely distributed Conchuela stink bug can be black in southern states, green in northern states, and a strange combination of the two in the area between. Conchuela feeds on fruits and crops including grapes, peas and tomatoes. In dry regions it feeds on sage, yucca and prickly pear. The characteristic stink — some describe it as the smell of rotted cilantro — comes from glands located on the thorax. It’s released as a defensive mechanism and can be a nuisance for those working in their gardens or, especially, if found in clusters, on the ground or on sides of trees. Not all stink bugs are harmful. Predators, including the Florida predatory stink bug, feed voraciously on sap-sucking insects. Predators aren’t easily distinguished from harmful types unless you’re familiar with the various coloring of different species. Harmful, vegetative feeders have long, needle-like proboscis. Predators have shorter, bulkier proboscis, and feed on a variety of insect pests. Again, like their sap sucking cousins, they’re not picky.[图片]New varieties of pests commonly known as stink bugs continue to come to our shores. The painted bug or Bagrada bug of Southern Europe and Africa, a major pest of brassica crops, was first collected in California in 2008 and has since spread to Arizona and Texas. Euschistus quadrator, a pest that thrives on genetically engineered corn has spread across the south since moving up from Mexico in the 1970s. The sheer variety in stink bugs is on beautiful display at naturalist-photographer Bev Wigney’s gallery. Life Cycle Adults overwinter beneath brush, under tree bark, in woodpiles and against the corners of buildings. Some, like the brown-marmorated types, will gather inside walls and window sills if they can find a way in. From wherever they hide, they emerge early in spring and begin to feed. When conditions are right they mate. Like crickets, the stink bugs “chirp” by rubbing their legs together in an attempt to attract mates. They also release a bug-arousing pheromone scent, different than the offensive scent that gives them their name.[图片]The female lays distinctive clusters of eggs — as many as 150 in a cluster — on plant leaves, tree branches or on houses, frequently on the bottom of clapboard siding. The clusters can be yellow, brown, white or pink, usually deepening in color as the nymph develops. Breeding can continue through the season, allowing for various generations to be at different stages of development through the summer. Populations increase as they overlap, resulting in higher and higher numbers just as many crops move towards maturity as the season progresses. Nymph stages resemble adults stages but with significant size and color differences. Adult colors appear as the nymph passes through various (often five) instars. Nymphs are usually flightless.[图片]In fall, as food sources dry up and disappear, the adults begin to gather in place to overwinter and repeat the cycle. They sometimes will emerge during spells of warm autumn or winter weather but often aren’t seen again until spring. Virginia Cooperative Extension’s Integrated Pest Management program has an excellent field guide (PDF) with photos that identify eggs, nymph and adult stages of various stink bug types. Damage Stink bugs are all appetite and will feed from whatever plants are convenient. They prefer the fleshy part of fruits but can adapt to conditions as plants in late season begin to loose moisture. Some types are known to exist in arid climates on woody plants and even cacti, yet prefer commercially raised, irrigated crops that are grown in such regions.[图片]Damage to crops caused by stink bugs is often cosmetic but also leads to early decay and spoilage. In addition to the pin-prick piercing which result in blemishes, the insects also inject a digestive enzyme that causes discoloration as it spreads through the plant’s vascular system. Given the choice, the pests will always choose fruit over foliage, they are opportunist and will feed on what’s available, including seeds and stems. Damage on cabbage and other leafy crops can be seen in gray and beige blotches. Corn attacked by the pests will have dark spots on stalks and, more likely, deformed ears with missing kernels. Fruit skins will show browning where the bugs have fed and tomatoes show a darkened bruise around the spot where the pest has inserted its proboscis.[图片]Stink Bug Control Keep areas around gardens clear of tall grass, brambles, downed limbs and other natural litter to deny a place to over winter. Using good organic practice — soil building, encouraging beneficial microbes and other soil life, maintaining habitat for beneficial organisms including birds; balanced nutrient and moisture management, applications of compost — helps plants resist damage caused by stink bugs. Use sticky traps and tape to detect the presence of stink bugs.[图片]When stink bugs are expected, especially as crops approach harvest, use row covers to prevent them from gaining access. Collect any bugs that land on the covers and drown them in a can with water and some soap. A number of naturally occurring predatory insects will destroy Pentatomidae in stages from egg and larvae to adult. Keep areas surrounding the garden free of pesticides to assure these beneficial insects can play a role in your Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program. The parasitic wasp Trissolcus basalis, which inserts its eggs into the pest’s eggs, has been shown to be effective against the Southern green stink bug. California has released the wasps in some tomato growing areas in an effort to reduce pest damage. Studies after the release found that 80% of all target egg masses had been visited by the wasp and that 87% of the eggs in each mass had been impregnated.[图片]Other beneficial insects known to predate on Pentatomidae during various stages of the pest’s development include ladybugs, lacewing and the minute pirate bug. Kaolin clay, a harmless mineral, has been shown to suppress stink bug activity. Sold in a modified form as Surround WP Crop Protectant, it repels the bugs by attaching itself to their bodies, agitating them and causing them to flee. The non-toxic kaolin clay also coats leaves and fruit with a fine film that keeps the pests from feeding. (The film has been shown to actually increase photosynthesis and encourage healthy growth (PDF) in trees and other plants.) Spray kaolin clay periodically throughout the season in places where stink bugs do heavy damage.[图片]Insecticidal soaps and neem oil are also effective against stink bugs, especially early in the season. Finding stink bugs in your home? Fill an aluminum turkey pan, preferably recycled, with an inch or so of water and stir in a little dish detergent. Shine a lamp (like a desklamp) on the surface and leave it on overnight. The light attracts the bugs who land in the water and are held by the detergent. From there, you know what to do.
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