文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Gaillardia pulchella Foug.
Common Names
Fire Wheel, Indian Blanket, Indian Blanket Flower, Blanket Flower, Rose Ring Blanket Flower, Rose Ring Gaillardia, Sundance, Annual Gaillardia
Synonyms
Gaillardia drummondii, Gaillardia neomexicana, Gaillardia picta, Calonnea pulcherrima, Gaillardia bicolor, Gaillardia lobata, Gaillardia scabrosa, Gaillardia villosa, Galordia alternifolia
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Genus: Gaillardia
Flower
Color: Red, orange and yellow
Bloom Time: Summer to early fall
Description
Gaillardia pulchella a cheery, brightly colored annual, with branching, hairy and upright stem, up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall. The leaves are alternate, mostly basal, up to 3.2 inches (8 cm) long, with edges smooth to coarsely toothed or lobed. The pinwheel, daisy-like inflorescences are vividly colored with red, orange and yellow, up to 2.4 inches (6 cm) in diameter. The central disc florets of the flower head tend to be more red-violet, with the outer ray florets being yellow. It blooms practically year-round in some areas, but more typically in summer to early fall. The seed is an achene.
How to Grow and Care
Sow seeds into a well-draining soil and cover slightly. Although drought tolerant once established, care of Blanket Flowers includes keeping the seeds moist until germination occurs. Once established, occasional watering should become a part of Blanket Flowers’ care. This assists in a longer display of the colorful blooms.
Care of Gaillardias includes planting in a full sun location to keep this fast growing specimen happy. As a native plant to the central United States and Mexico, Blanket Flower is a heat loving flower that attracts butterflies. Growing Blanket Flowers are drought tolerant and do not like wet feet from soggy soil.
Growing Blanket Flowers can naturalize in a meadow or field adding hues of color. Easy care of Blanket Flowers makes them an ideal specimen for many landscape uses.
Origin
Native to Central United States.
Gaillardia pulchella Foug.
Common Names
Fire Wheel, Indian Blanket, Indian Blanket Flower, Blanket Flower, Rose Ring Blanket Flower, Rose Ring Gaillardia, Sundance, Annual Gaillardia
Synonyms
Gaillardia drummondii, Gaillardia neomexicana, Gaillardia picta, Calonnea pulcherrima, Gaillardia bicolor, Gaillardia lobata, Gaillardia scabrosa, Gaillardia villosa, Galordia alternifolia
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Genus: Gaillardia
Flower
Color: Red, orange and yellow
Bloom Time: Summer to early fall
Description
Gaillardia pulchella a cheery, brightly colored annual, with branching, hairy and upright stem, up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall. The leaves are alternate, mostly basal, up to 3.2 inches (8 cm) long, with edges smooth to coarsely toothed or lobed. The pinwheel, daisy-like inflorescences are vividly colored with red, orange and yellow, up to 2.4 inches (6 cm) in diameter. The central disc florets of the flower head tend to be more red-violet, with the outer ray florets being yellow. It blooms practically year-round in some areas, but more typically in summer to early fall. The seed is an achene.
How to Grow and Care
Sow seeds into a well-draining soil and cover slightly. Although drought tolerant once established, care of Blanket Flowers includes keeping the seeds moist until germination occurs. Once established, occasional watering should become a part of Blanket Flowers’ care. This assists in a longer display of the colorful blooms.
Care of Gaillardias includes planting in a full sun location to keep this fast growing specimen happy. As a native plant to the central United States and Mexico, Blanket Flower is a heat loving flower that attracts butterflies. Growing Blanket Flowers are drought tolerant and do not like wet feet from soggy soil.
Growing Blanket Flowers can naturalize in a meadow or field adding hues of color. Easy care of Blanket Flowers makes them an ideal specimen for many landscape uses.
Origin
Native to Central United States.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Ferocactus glaucescens (DC.) Britton & Rose
Common Names
Blue Barrel Cactus, Glaucous Barrel Cactus
Synonyms
Bisnaga glaucescens, Echinocactus glaucescens, Echinocactus pfeifferi, Ferocactus pfeifferi
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Cacteae
Genus: Ferocactus
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Late spring and summer
Description
Ferocactus glaucescens is a generally solitary, barrel cactus with bluish green stems up to 22 inches (55 cm) tall and 20 inches (50 cm) in diameter, 11 to 15 ribs, 0 or 1 central spine, and straight, light yellow 6 or 7 radial spines, up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) long. The flowers are lemon yellow, funnel-shaped and up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) in diameter. The plants start flowering when about 5 inches (12.5 cm) in diameter. The fruits are white, 0.8 inch (2 cm) long with the remnants of the flowers attached.
How to Grow and Care
Choose a planting location that receives direct sun during all or most of the day. Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Plant your Barrel Cactus in early spring before new roots begin to form in late June and early July. The roots may appear dry, but that is typical before new growth begins. Dig a hole deep enough for the plant’s roots and amend it as needed to provide fast-draining soil.
A good soil mixture includes 10 percent native soil, 45 percent washed sand or pumice and 45 percent compost. Ferocactus thrives in poor and arid soil. Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Water again only if the weather in your area is unseasonably dry and if normal spring or winter rainfall doesn’t occur.
Origin
Native to eastern Central Mexico.
Ferocactus glaucescens (DC.) Britton & Rose
Common Names
Blue Barrel Cactus, Glaucous Barrel Cactus
Synonyms
Bisnaga glaucescens, Echinocactus glaucescens, Echinocactus pfeifferi, Ferocactus pfeifferi
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Cacteae
Genus: Ferocactus
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Late spring and summer
Description
Ferocactus glaucescens is a generally solitary, barrel cactus with bluish green stems up to 22 inches (55 cm) tall and 20 inches (50 cm) in diameter, 11 to 15 ribs, 0 or 1 central spine, and straight, light yellow 6 or 7 radial spines, up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) long. The flowers are lemon yellow, funnel-shaped and up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) in diameter. The plants start flowering when about 5 inches (12.5 cm) in diameter. The fruits are white, 0.8 inch (2 cm) long with the remnants of the flowers attached.
How to Grow and Care
Choose a planting location that receives direct sun during all or most of the day. Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Plant your Barrel Cactus in early spring before new roots begin to form in late June and early July. The roots may appear dry, but that is typical before new growth begins. Dig a hole deep enough for the plant’s roots and amend it as needed to provide fast-draining soil.
A good soil mixture includes 10 percent native soil, 45 percent washed sand or pumice and 45 percent compost. Ferocactus thrives in poor and arid soil. Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Water again only if the weather in your area is unseasonably dry and if normal spring or winter rainfall doesn’t occur.
Origin
Native to eastern Central Mexico.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
America’s most popular flower is also one of the very oldest flowers in cultivation. There are over 2,000 different rose varieties to lure us with their history and fragrance. This is because the rose, like the orchid, cross-breeds readily—a trait exploited first by nature, and then by horticulturalists. Today, we can choose from old-fashioned favorites, as well as modern varieties that are the result of intensive breeding programs throughout the world. The rose is a flower with a rich past, and an exciting future.
Finding your way through the rose’s large extended family can be both confusing and intimidating. Damasks, musks, gallicas, centifolias, hybrid perpetuals, Bourbons, hybrid teas, ramblers and climbers—even the most distinguished rosarians have a difficult time determining which rose is which.
Tracing the history of a particular rose can be a fascinating adventure, but it is hardly an exact science. The old roses have cross-bred so many times, and so many varieties have been lost to time, that it is often impossible to uncover the exact parentage. If you are one of the many who become possessed by roses, you may eventually find it important to know the difference between a gallica and a Bourbon. But until that point, our advice is not to worry about it. The important thing is to select a rose that you find beautiful, and that suits your garden.
Roses are usually grouped into one of two broad categories: old roses and modern roses. Old roses are those varieties discovered or developed prior to the introduction of the hybrid tea rose in 1867. But like everything else in the world of roses, when it comes to determining how a particular rose should be classified, it’s not always crystal clear.
It is generally agreed that “old roses” include species or wild roses; albas; Bourbons; moss roses; China roses; Noisettes; Portland roses; rugosa roses; Scotch roses; centifolias; hybrid pimpinellifolias; damasks; gallicas; hybrid perpetuals; tea roses; and musk roses. Those classified as modern varieties are hybrid teas; floribundas; polyanthas; grandifloras; miniatures and dwarfs; modern shrub and landscape roses; climbers and ramblers; and rugosa hybrids.
Why choose an old-fashioned rose over a modern hybrid? Many of the old varieties offer more fragrance, more complex and interesting blooms, greater disease resistance, easier care and more interesting forms. But modern roses can offer all-season blooms, and a much broader range of colors and flower forms. Some are also far more cold- hardy and disease-resistant than any of the old-fashioned varieties.
How to Select a Rose
There are thousands of beautiful roses, far more than any of us will ever have the opportunity to see, much less grow. When choosing a rose for your garden, there are five considerations that should make the selection process easier.
Growth Habit
Though roses are usually planted for their flowers, it is important to know what the plant as well as the flowers will look like, in order to determine where it will fit in your garden.
Hybrid teas and floribundas usually grow no more than 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) high. Their form is coarse, and hardly very appealing, but they do have the ability to produce an abundance of flowers throughout the growing season. The hybrid tea has large, single blooms on long, stiff stems, whereas the floribunda has slightly smaller clusters of blooms on stems that are not as stiff.
Miniature roses have tiny flowers, and may be only 10 to 36 inches (25 to 90 cm) tall. Dwarf roses grow up to 2 feet (60 cm) high, and their flowers are produced in clusters. Shrub roses, including both the old-fashioned and the modern types, and ground-cover or landscape roses, are generally large and leafy.
Climbers and ramblers grow from 7 feet to 30 feet (2.1 to 9 m) in length, and most of them benefit from some support. Standards are roses that are trained into a tree-like form with a single stem and a rounded bush or weeping display of flowers on top.
Hardiness
Northern gardeners need to know exactly what zone a rose is hardy to. Southern gardeners must also watch to see what zones are recommended for each particular variety, as some roses perform very poorly in hot and/or humid weather. Read the catalogs carefully and, if possible, purchase your roses from a local or regional grower. They will be able to advise you from experience about how a particular variety will perform in your area.
Bloom Time
Many roses, especially the old-fashioned varieties, have just one flush of blooms per year. Will you be satisfied with a cloud of heavenly pink blossoms for three weeks in June, or do you need your rose to bloom all summer long? This consideration may narrow your choices very quickly.
Disease-resistance
Selecting a disease-resistant rose is the single most effective way to avoid problems and the need for chemicals. You might start by considering some of the old rose varieties, many of which have natural disease resistance. You can also look to many of the modern roses, which are now being bred for improved disease resistance. Hybrid teas are notoriously disease-prone, and seem to lure every insect pest from miles around. They can be difficult to grow without an arsenal of chemical dusts and sprays.
Stem Length
This may seem like an odd consideration, but it’s important if you are growing roses for cutting. The traditional florist rose is a hybrid tea, and it is the only type that flowers on a long, stiff stem. All other roses have shorter, weaker stems, which gives them a more casual—some believe more beautiful—presence in a vase.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Roses are rather particular, and you should be aware of the growing conditions and care necessary to keep them happy.
Site: For most abundant blooms and greatest vigor, they need to receive 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. In hot climates, they will appreciate receiving protection from the most intense afternoon sun. In cool climates, a fence or a warm south- or west-facing wall can add enough extra warmth to boost flower production and reduce winter damage.
Soils: Roses need good drainage and a rich, moisture-retentive soil, with a pH between 6.5 and 7. If your soil is heavy and wet, you may want to consider planting your roses in raised beds. Compost should be added to create a loose texture with a high organic content. For help correcting a pH imbalance, read Building Healthy Soil.
Water: Roses require more water than most other landscape plantings, especially during the first year as the plant is getting its roots established. The best way to water your roses is with drip irrigation. It concentrates the water at the root zone where it is needed, and keeps the foliage dry to minimize disease problems. A good, thick layer of organic mulch will help conserve moisture, reduce weeds, and encourage healthy root growth. As the mulch breaks down, it will also add organic matter to the soil.
Fertilizer: Roses are heavy feeders, and will benefit from a steady supply of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. You can provide these nutrients with either liquid or granular fertilizers, at a ratio of approximately 5-8-5. In most cases, regular applications of compost, rotted manure, fish emulsion and seaweed extracts will provide roses with all the nutrients they need. These organic amendments also help to moderate pH imbalances and stimulate beneficial soil life. Other organic amendments favored by rose growers include greensand, black rock phosphate and alfalfa meal.
Pruning: Dead, weak and sickly stems can lead to disease problems. Pruning these away will increase air circulation to the center of the plant and minimize fungus problems. Pruning also stimulates new growth, and allows you to shape the plant in a pleasing manner. Spent flowers should be removed during the growing season to encourage reblooming. Use a scissor-action pruner for the cleanest cuts.
Winter protection: If possible, select rose varieties that are hardy for your growing zone; ones that can survive the winter with no special protection. In cold climates, hybrid teas and floribundas, as well as some of the smaller shrub roses, will benefit from a little extra insulation.
Once you have had several weeks of below-freezing temperatures, cover the base of the rose with 12 inches (30 cm) of soil or mulch, and then cover the canes with straw, leaves, pine boughs or even foam insulation. Climbing varieties can be wrapped right on their supports, or you can lay them on the ground and cover the canes with straw or brush. In severely cold climates, hybrid teas are sometimes partially dug up, laid down onto the soil, and the entire plant is then covered with more soil or mulch.
Pests and diseases: Prevention is the best way to avoid pest and disease problems. Start with disease-resistant varieties, keep plants in healthy condition (well fertilized and well watered), maintain good air circulation, keep foliage dry, and remove any diseased foliage or spent flowers. For persistent pest problems, you can use botanical insecticides such as sabadilla, neem, rotenone, and pyrethrins. These are broad-spectrum controls, meaning they kill many types of insects, both good and bad. Though they are organic, these controls are potent and should be used sparingly.
Finding your way through the rose’s large extended family can be both confusing and intimidating. Damasks, musks, gallicas, centifolias, hybrid perpetuals, Bourbons, hybrid teas, ramblers and climbers—even the most distinguished rosarians have a difficult time determining which rose is which.
Tracing the history of a particular rose can be a fascinating adventure, but it is hardly an exact science. The old roses have cross-bred so many times, and so many varieties have been lost to time, that it is often impossible to uncover the exact parentage. If you are one of the many who become possessed by roses, you may eventually find it important to know the difference between a gallica and a Bourbon. But until that point, our advice is not to worry about it. The important thing is to select a rose that you find beautiful, and that suits your garden.
Roses are usually grouped into one of two broad categories: old roses and modern roses. Old roses are those varieties discovered or developed prior to the introduction of the hybrid tea rose in 1867. But like everything else in the world of roses, when it comes to determining how a particular rose should be classified, it’s not always crystal clear.
It is generally agreed that “old roses” include species or wild roses; albas; Bourbons; moss roses; China roses; Noisettes; Portland roses; rugosa roses; Scotch roses; centifolias; hybrid pimpinellifolias; damasks; gallicas; hybrid perpetuals; tea roses; and musk roses. Those classified as modern varieties are hybrid teas; floribundas; polyanthas; grandifloras; miniatures and dwarfs; modern shrub and landscape roses; climbers and ramblers; and rugosa hybrids.
Why choose an old-fashioned rose over a modern hybrid? Many of the old varieties offer more fragrance, more complex and interesting blooms, greater disease resistance, easier care and more interesting forms. But modern roses can offer all-season blooms, and a much broader range of colors and flower forms. Some are also far more cold- hardy and disease-resistant than any of the old-fashioned varieties.
How to Select a Rose
There are thousands of beautiful roses, far more than any of us will ever have the opportunity to see, much less grow. When choosing a rose for your garden, there are five considerations that should make the selection process easier.
Growth Habit
Though roses are usually planted for their flowers, it is important to know what the plant as well as the flowers will look like, in order to determine where it will fit in your garden.
Hybrid teas and floribundas usually grow no more than 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) high. Their form is coarse, and hardly very appealing, but they do have the ability to produce an abundance of flowers throughout the growing season. The hybrid tea has large, single blooms on long, stiff stems, whereas the floribunda has slightly smaller clusters of blooms on stems that are not as stiff.
Miniature roses have tiny flowers, and may be only 10 to 36 inches (25 to 90 cm) tall. Dwarf roses grow up to 2 feet (60 cm) high, and their flowers are produced in clusters. Shrub roses, including both the old-fashioned and the modern types, and ground-cover or landscape roses, are generally large and leafy.
Climbers and ramblers grow from 7 feet to 30 feet (2.1 to 9 m) in length, and most of them benefit from some support. Standards are roses that are trained into a tree-like form with a single stem and a rounded bush or weeping display of flowers on top.
Hardiness
Northern gardeners need to know exactly what zone a rose is hardy to. Southern gardeners must also watch to see what zones are recommended for each particular variety, as some roses perform very poorly in hot and/or humid weather. Read the catalogs carefully and, if possible, purchase your roses from a local or regional grower. They will be able to advise you from experience about how a particular variety will perform in your area.
Bloom Time
Many roses, especially the old-fashioned varieties, have just one flush of blooms per year. Will you be satisfied with a cloud of heavenly pink blossoms for three weeks in June, or do you need your rose to bloom all summer long? This consideration may narrow your choices very quickly.
Disease-resistance
Selecting a disease-resistant rose is the single most effective way to avoid problems and the need for chemicals. You might start by considering some of the old rose varieties, many of which have natural disease resistance. You can also look to many of the modern roses, which are now being bred for improved disease resistance. Hybrid teas are notoriously disease-prone, and seem to lure every insect pest from miles around. They can be difficult to grow without an arsenal of chemical dusts and sprays.
Stem Length
This may seem like an odd consideration, but it’s important if you are growing roses for cutting. The traditional florist rose is a hybrid tea, and it is the only type that flowers on a long, stiff stem. All other roses have shorter, weaker stems, which gives them a more casual—some believe more beautiful—presence in a vase.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Roses are rather particular, and you should be aware of the growing conditions and care necessary to keep them happy.
Site: For most abundant blooms and greatest vigor, they need to receive 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. In hot climates, they will appreciate receiving protection from the most intense afternoon sun. In cool climates, a fence or a warm south- or west-facing wall can add enough extra warmth to boost flower production and reduce winter damage.
Soils: Roses need good drainage and a rich, moisture-retentive soil, with a pH between 6.5 and 7. If your soil is heavy and wet, you may want to consider planting your roses in raised beds. Compost should be added to create a loose texture with a high organic content. For help correcting a pH imbalance, read Building Healthy Soil.
Water: Roses require more water than most other landscape plantings, especially during the first year as the plant is getting its roots established. The best way to water your roses is with drip irrigation. It concentrates the water at the root zone where it is needed, and keeps the foliage dry to minimize disease problems. A good, thick layer of organic mulch will help conserve moisture, reduce weeds, and encourage healthy root growth. As the mulch breaks down, it will also add organic matter to the soil.
Fertilizer: Roses are heavy feeders, and will benefit from a steady supply of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. You can provide these nutrients with either liquid or granular fertilizers, at a ratio of approximately 5-8-5. In most cases, regular applications of compost, rotted manure, fish emulsion and seaweed extracts will provide roses with all the nutrients they need. These organic amendments also help to moderate pH imbalances and stimulate beneficial soil life. Other organic amendments favored by rose growers include greensand, black rock phosphate and alfalfa meal.
Pruning: Dead, weak and sickly stems can lead to disease problems. Pruning these away will increase air circulation to the center of the plant and minimize fungus problems. Pruning also stimulates new growth, and allows you to shape the plant in a pleasing manner. Spent flowers should be removed during the growing season to encourage reblooming. Use a scissor-action pruner for the cleanest cuts.
Winter protection: If possible, select rose varieties that are hardy for your growing zone; ones that can survive the winter with no special protection. In cold climates, hybrid teas and floribundas, as well as some of the smaller shrub roses, will benefit from a little extra insulation.
Once you have had several weeks of below-freezing temperatures, cover the base of the rose with 12 inches (30 cm) of soil or mulch, and then cover the canes with straw, leaves, pine boughs or even foam insulation. Climbing varieties can be wrapped right on their supports, or you can lay them on the ground and cover the canes with straw or brush. In severely cold climates, hybrid teas are sometimes partially dug up, laid down onto the soil, and the entire plant is then covered with more soil or mulch.
Pests and diseases: Prevention is the best way to avoid pest and disease problems. Start with disease-resistant varieties, keep plants in healthy condition (well fertilized and well watered), maintain good air circulation, keep foliage dry, and remove any diseased foliage or spent flowers. For persistent pest problems, you can use botanical insecticides such as sabadilla, neem, rotenone, and pyrethrins. These are broad-spectrum controls, meaning they kill many types of insects, both good and bad. Though they are organic, these controls are potent and should be used sparingly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
There’s nothing more enchanting than the iconic “rose-covered cottage”. The imagery of quaint, thatched-roof homes covered with long, sweet-smelling trails of colorful roses. Climbing roses can form a vibrant landscape backdrop for border perennials and annuals. They are also a lovely choice for arbors, trellises, fences, and pergolas. Most varieties will grow from 6 to 12 feet (1.8 to 3.2 m) long and will spread about 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) wide. They are available in a range of pastels, brights, and multi-colors.
Climbers are considerably less fussy than their bush-form rose cousins; you simply need to have a handle on the basics and a little help from Mother Nature.
Choosing a Variety
Above all, determine whether the variety you want is suited for your growing zone – if you’re not already familiar with the importance of growing things suited to your hardiness zone. Next, choose the color you like and see if the mature size is suited for the space you’ve chosen. Then, look for a climber that is disease-resistant, repeat-blooming, or whichever other “bonus” features are most important to you.
Growing Conditions
Most all rose types need full sun; they thrive in loamy, well-drained soil and prefer a consistent drink of water: about an inch (2.5 cm) a week. Eastern exposure is ideal to protect the leaves from hot afternoon sun.
Note: Roses with wet feet are susceptible to all kinds of fungus. Black spot and other diseases can spread to your other rose plantings, so keep a clean planting site and take care not to overwater. Good soil drainage will help mitigate heavy soaking rains.
Training
Gardeners usually want a climbing rose to serve a functional purpose (act as a screen, frame a doorway, etc.) as well as provide visual beauty to the space. To that end, the stems need to be trained to grow the way you want them to. Air circulation is important to prevent disease, so if you want the climber to cover a wall, use a free-standing vertical support that gives your rose at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) of breathing room between the plant and the wall. With a stretchable fastener, hand-tie your climber to the crosspiece of the structure and try to arrange the branches in a fan shape as it grows. This will help to make pruning easier. It’s recommended that you train — do not try to heavily prune — for the first couple of years. This will encourage growth on the bottom of the plant, not just the tops, for a fuller appearance.
Pruning
Aside from sun, food, and water essentials, one thing you can do to turn your climbing roses into prolific bloomers is proper pruning. Pruning is only necessary once a year after the plants have been established. Many gardeners prune their climbing roses, for maintenance and shape, in the spring after the first blooms pass. As a result of proper pruning, your climbers will be significantly stronger and will produce many more blooms!
Note: Most climbing roses (hybrid teas) bloom two or more times every season: first on old canes, and then on the current season’s growth. If you prune in late winter (about the time forsythia blooms), you’ll get boatloads of blooms later in the season. For old-fashioned climbers that only bloom once in the summer, prune just after blooming has stopped.
When it’s time to prune, remove any dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing canes, and canes that are narrower than a pencil. When all you’ve got is main canes left, cut back the side shoots from these main canes to about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to keep them in line.
Tip: Wipe your pruning tools with rubbing alcohol between each cut. This helps prevent the spread of disease when pruning, while also caring for your tools. After use, wash pruning tools with a mild soap, rinse, and towel-dry.
As always, deadhead your climbers to keep them blooming, but just until fall — allowing hips to develop helps the plant enter dormancy, which will help it overwinter properly.
Feeding
Fertilizer requirements differ, depending upon where you live and your individual soil composition. In the South or West, where roses tend to grow for 9 or 10 months of the year, more fertilizer may be needed. In contrast: in the North, where roses may have 3 or 4 months of growth, less fertilizer will be used.
Time-release rose food is the easiest form to use; all you have to remember is to apply it once or twice per season, and water before and after use to avoid burning.
Organic gardeners like a 50/50 mix of cottonseed and alfalfa meals. Use 10 cups of this mixture at the base of each rose every 10 weeks, and cover with mulch.
Start fertilizing in early spring after pruning, about four weeks before spring growth begins. In cold-winter regions, stop fertilizing six weeks before the first predicted frost to allow the plant to go dormant before a hard freeze.
Mulching and Winterizing
Mulch is critical to keep rose roots evenly moist in the summer, and to protect them against hard freezing over the winter. Apply a layer of mulch, only a few inches thick, around roses in the spring – this may happen at planting time if you plant roses in the spring. Later in the fall, after the first frost, pile up more mulch around the plants to provide extra insulation. As the ground warms and thaws in the spring, gradually remove the excess mulch and leave a layer of mulch that is just a few inches thick again.
Pest Control
Roses seem to attract more insects than any other flower – beneficials and pests alike! Pests may chew and pit the leaves, wilt the petals, and burrow into the stems. You can nip pest problems in the bud with organic Insecticidal Soap — it acts quickly and on contact (not systemically) to get rid of common rose pests like aphids, scale, and whiteflies, with an all-natural solution.
Note: Pesticides don’t know the difference between beneficials and pests, so never use pesticides when bees or other beneficials are present.
Disease Control
Roses are subject to black spot, anthracnose, and other fungal problems caused by a recipe of too much water, humidity, and heat. Some varieties are more disease-resistant. If your climbing roses do develop a fungal disease, a disease control spray like Bonide, Fung-onil, Multi-Purpose Fungicide should be used. For a natural alternative in organic gardens, copper-based Bordeaux spray/dust is effective against mildews and other diseases.
Climbing roses are a unique twist to the traditional landscape – and since they take up very little ground space, you can enjoy growing your own climbers even if your space is limited. Now that you have the basics down, you’re ready to get started growing your own climbing roses!
Climbers are considerably less fussy than their bush-form rose cousins; you simply need to have a handle on the basics and a little help from Mother Nature.
Choosing a Variety
Above all, determine whether the variety you want is suited for your growing zone – if you’re not already familiar with the importance of growing things suited to your hardiness zone. Next, choose the color you like and see if the mature size is suited for the space you’ve chosen. Then, look for a climber that is disease-resistant, repeat-blooming, or whichever other “bonus” features are most important to you.
Growing Conditions
Most all rose types need full sun; they thrive in loamy, well-drained soil and prefer a consistent drink of water: about an inch (2.5 cm) a week. Eastern exposure is ideal to protect the leaves from hot afternoon sun.
Note: Roses with wet feet are susceptible to all kinds of fungus. Black spot and other diseases can spread to your other rose plantings, so keep a clean planting site and take care not to overwater. Good soil drainage will help mitigate heavy soaking rains.
Training
Gardeners usually want a climbing rose to serve a functional purpose (act as a screen, frame a doorway, etc.) as well as provide visual beauty to the space. To that end, the stems need to be trained to grow the way you want them to. Air circulation is important to prevent disease, so if you want the climber to cover a wall, use a free-standing vertical support that gives your rose at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) of breathing room between the plant and the wall. With a stretchable fastener, hand-tie your climber to the crosspiece of the structure and try to arrange the branches in a fan shape as it grows. This will help to make pruning easier. It’s recommended that you train — do not try to heavily prune — for the first couple of years. This will encourage growth on the bottom of the plant, not just the tops, for a fuller appearance.
Pruning
Aside from sun, food, and water essentials, one thing you can do to turn your climbing roses into prolific bloomers is proper pruning. Pruning is only necessary once a year after the plants have been established. Many gardeners prune their climbing roses, for maintenance and shape, in the spring after the first blooms pass. As a result of proper pruning, your climbers will be significantly stronger and will produce many more blooms!
Note: Most climbing roses (hybrid teas) bloom two or more times every season: first on old canes, and then on the current season’s growth. If you prune in late winter (about the time forsythia blooms), you’ll get boatloads of blooms later in the season. For old-fashioned climbers that only bloom once in the summer, prune just after blooming has stopped.
When it’s time to prune, remove any dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing canes, and canes that are narrower than a pencil. When all you’ve got is main canes left, cut back the side shoots from these main canes to about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to keep them in line.
Tip: Wipe your pruning tools with rubbing alcohol between each cut. This helps prevent the spread of disease when pruning, while also caring for your tools. After use, wash pruning tools with a mild soap, rinse, and towel-dry.
As always, deadhead your climbers to keep them blooming, but just until fall — allowing hips to develop helps the plant enter dormancy, which will help it overwinter properly.
Feeding
Fertilizer requirements differ, depending upon where you live and your individual soil composition. In the South or West, where roses tend to grow for 9 or 10 months of the year, more fertilizer may be needed. In contrast: in the North, where roses may have 3 or 4 months of growth, less fertilizer will be used.
Time-release rose food is the easiest form to use; all you have to remember is to apply it once or twice per season, and water before and after use to avoid burning.
Organic gardeners like a 50/50 mix of cottonseed and alfalfa meals. Use 10 cups of this mixture at the base of each rose every 10 weeks, and cover with mulch.
Start fertilizing in early spring after pruning, about four weeks before spring growth begins. In cold-winter regions, stop fertilizing six weeks before the first predicted frost to allow the plant to go dormant before a hard freeze.
Mulching and Winterizing
Mulch is critical to keep rose roots evenly moist in the summer, and to protect them against hard freezing over the winter. Apply a layer of mulch, only a few inches thick, around roses in the spring – this may happen at planting time if you plant roses in the spring. Later in the fall, after the first frost, pile up more mulch around the plants to provide extra insulation. As the ground warms and thaws in the spring, gradually remove the excess mulch and leave a layer of mulch that is just a few inches thick again.
Pest Control
Roses seem to attract more insects than any other flower – beneficials and pests alike! Pests may chew and pit the leaves, wilt the petals, and burrow into the stems. You can nip pest problems in the bud with organic Insecticidal Soap — it acts quickly and on contact (not systemically) to get rid of common rose pests like aphids, scale, and whiteflies, with an all-natural solution.
Note: Pesticides don’t know the difference between beneficials and pests, so never use pesticides when bees or other beneficials are present.
Disease Control
Roses are subject to black spot, anthracnose, and other fungal problems caused by a recipe of too much water, humidity, and heat. Some varieties are more disease-resistant. If your climbing roses do develop a fungal disease, a disease control spray like Bonide, Fung-onil, Multi-Purpose Fungicide should be used. For a natural alternative in organic gardens, copper-based Bordeaux spray/dust is effective against mildews and other diseases.
Climbing roses are a unique twist to the traditional landscape – and since they take up very little ground space, you can enjoy growing your own climbers even if your space is limited. Now that you have the basics down, you’re ready to get started growing your own climbing roses!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Roses (genus Rosa) are some of the most popular and beautiful flowering shrubs grown, but starting a rose garden may seem daunting to new gardeners. However, growing roses for beginners doesn’t have to be a stressful endeavor. In fact, with proper planting and care, nearly anyone can become a successful rose gardener.
Growing Conditions
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
General Care
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting. While overhead watering is suitable before the onset of new growth, it is often better to water these plants at the soil line using soaker hoses or similar means. Rose bushes are very susceptible to fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, especially when their foliage is kept too wet.
Fertilizer for roses should also be applied in spring, following the label instructions carefully. However, with the addition of well-rotted manure each spring, this is usually adequate. Mulching your rose bush will help retain moisture and may also offer some winter protection.
Pruning is another aspect to consider when caring for rose bushes. This often takes place once leaf buds appear in spring. Make cuts about 1/4 inch (8 mm) above the bud eyes and prune out any twiggy or unhealthy branches.
Starting a rose garden and knowing how to take care of roses shouldn’t be intimidating. In fact, it’s easier than you might think. Just give them what they need and before you know it, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful blooms.
Growing Conditions
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
General Care
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting. While overhead watering is suitable before the onset of new growth, it is often better to water these plants at the soil line using soaker hoses or similar means. Rose bushes are very susceptible to fungal diseases, such as black spot and powdery mildew, especially when their foliage is kept too wet.
Fertilizer for roses should also be applied in spring, following the label instructions carefully. However, with the addition of well-rotted manure each spring, this is usually adequate. Mulching your rose bush will help retain moisture and may also offer some winter protection.
Pruning is another aspect to consider when caring for rose bushes. This often takes place once leaf buds appear in spring. Make cuts about 1/4 inch (8 mm) above the bud eyes and prune out any twiggy or unhealthy branches.
Starting a rose garden and knowing how to take care of roses shouldn’t be intimidating. In fact, it’s easier than you might think. Just give them what they need and before you know it, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Nymphaea alba L.
Common Names
European White Water Lily, White Water Rose, White Nenuphar
Synonyms
Nymphaea alba var. alba, Castalia alba, Castalia minoriflora, Castalia speciosa, Leuconymphaea alba, Nymphaea minoriflora, Nymphaea occidentalis
Scientific Classification
Family: Nymphaeaceae
Genus: Nymphaea
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: June to September
Description
Nymphaea alba is an aquatic flowering plant. It grows in water that is up to 5 feet (1.5 m) deep and likes large ponds and lakes. The leaves can be up to 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and take up a spread of 5 feet (1.5 m) per plant. The flowers are white and they have many small stamens inside. They are produced between June and September.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 4a to 11a: from −30 °F (−34.4 °C) to 45 °F (+7.2 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Like any other perennial, each different Water Lily may have specific needs when it comes to their sunlight, soil, fertilization, water depth and pruning requirements. When shopping for Water Lilies, be sure to check the requirements of that specific plant, before you decide that you must have it! Generally, Water Lilies require a minimum of four to five hours of full sun each day to produce the most blooms. They should be planted in a large, wide pot, using a slightly acidic mixture of clay and loam with a pH of 6.1-7.0. Commercial potting mixes often contain amendments that float, so if you are using a commercial mix be sure that it is specifically for aquatic plants! Adding a few goldfish to your pond will take care of most insect pests that attack aquatic plants as well as devouring the mosquito larvae.
Origin
Native to Europe.
Nymphaea alba L.
Common Names
European White Water Lily, White Water Rose, White Nenuphar
Synonyms
Nymphaea alba var. alba, Castalia alba, Castalia minoriflora, Castalia speciosa, Leuconymphaea alba, Nymphaea minoriflora, Nymphaea occidentalis
Scientific Classification
Family: Nymphaeaceae
Genus: Nymphaea
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: June to September
Description
Nymphaea alba is an aquatic flowering plant. It grows in water that is up to 5 feet (1.5 m) deep and likes large ponds and lakes. The leaves can be up to 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and take up a spread of 5 feet (1.5 m) per plant. The flowers are white and they have many small stamens inside. They are produced between June and September.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 4a to 11a: from −30 °F (−34.4 °C) to 45 °F (+7.2 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Like any other perennial, each different Water Lily may have specific needs when it comes to their sunlight, soil, fertilization, water depth and pruning requirements. When shopping for Water Lilies, be sure to check the requirements of that specific plant, before you decide that you must have it! Generally, Water Lilies require a minimum of four to five hours of full sun each day to produce the most blooms. They should be planted in a large, wide pot, using a slightly acidic mixture of clay and loam with a pH of 6.1-7.0. Commercial potting mixes often contain amendments that float, so if you are using a commercial mix be sure that it is specifically for aquatic plants! Adding a few goldfish to your pond will take care of most insect pests that attack aquatic plants as well as devouring the mosquito larvae.
Origin
Native to Europe.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Etlingera elatior (Jack) R.M.Sm.
Common Names
Torch Ginger, Ginger Flower, Philippine Wax Flower, Red Ginger Lily, Torch Lily, Wild Ginger, Indonesian Tall Ginger, Porcelain Rose
Synonyms
Achasma yunnanensis, Alpinia acrostachya, Alpinia diracodes, Alpinia elatior, Alpinia javanica, Alpinia magnifica, Alpinia speciosa, Amomum magnificum, Amomum tridentatum, Bojeria magnifica, Cardamomum magnificum, Cardamomum speciosum, Cardamomum tridentatum, Diracodes javanica, Elettaria speciosa, Geanthus speciosus, Hornstedtia imperialis, Nicolaia imperialis, Nicolaia intermedia, Nicolaia magnifica, Nicolaia speciosa, Phaeomeria imperialis, Phaeomeria magnifica, Phaeomeria speciosa
Scientific Classification
Family: Zingiberaceae
Genus: Etlingera
Flower
Color: Red
Bloom Time: Throughout the year
Description
Etlingera elatior is a tropical, rhizomatous perennial that grows up to 15 feet (4.5 m) tall in tropical climates but much shorter in cooler climates. Arching leafstalks up to 15 feet (4.5 m) tall are clad with ribbed, leathery, banana-like leaves (up to 3 feet/90 cm long), each having a central groove. Naked flower stalks rise directly from the rhizomes up to 3 feet (90 cm) tall, each stalk being topped by a cone-shaped inflorescence containing tiny yellow flowers over tiny fertile bracts, both of which are somewhat hidden inside of and subtended by large, drooping, showy petal-like red bracts. Flowers bloom throughout the year.
How to Grow and Care
Growing Torch Ginger is possible in a range of soil types. A major problem when growing Torch Ginger plants is potassium deficiency. Potassium is necessary for the correct uptake of water, which is necessary for the optimum growth of this large plant.
Add potassium to the soil before growing Torch Gingers by working it into unplanted beds to about a foot (30 cm) deep. Organic means of adding potassium include the use of greensand, kelp or granite meal. Test the soil.
When growing these plants in established beds, fertilize with a food that is high in potassium. This is the third number on the fertilizer ratio displayed on the packaging. Once the potassium is right in the soil, watering, an important part of learning how to grow torch ginger successfully, will be more beneficial.
Origin
Native to Malayasia and Indonesia.
Etlingera elatior (Jack) R.M.Sm.
Common Names
Torch Ginger, Ginger Flower, Philippine Wax Flower, Red Ginger Lily, Torch Lily, Wild Ginger, Indonesian Tall Ginger, Porcelain Rose
Synonyms
Achasma yunnanensis, Alpinia acrostachya, Alpinia diracodes, Alpinia elatior, Alpinia javanica, Alpinia magnifica, Alpinia speciosa, Amomum magnificum, Amomum tridentatum, Bojeria magnifica, Cardamomum magnificum, Cardamomum speciosum, Cardamomum tridentatum, Diracodes javanica, Elettaria speciosa, Geanthus speciosus, Hornstedtia imperialis, Nicolaia imperialis, Nicolaia intermedia, Nicolaia magnifica, Nicolaia speciosa, Phaeomeria imperialis, Phaeomeria magnifica, Phaeomeria speciosa
Scientific Classification
Family: Zingiberaceae
Genus: Etlingera
Flower
Color: Red
Bloom Time: Throughout the year
Description
Etlingera elatior is a tropical, rhizomatous perennial that grows up to 15 feet (4.5 m) tall in tropical climates but much shorter in cooler climates. Arching leafstalks up to 15 feet (4.5 m) tall are clad with ribbed, leathery, banana-like leaves (up to 3 feet/90 cm long), each having a central groove. Naked flower stalks rise directly from the rhizomes up to 3 feet (90 cm) tall, each stalk being topped by a cone-shaped inflorescence containing tiny yellow flowers over tiny fertile bracts, both of which are somewhat hidden inside of and subtended by large, drooping, showy petal-like red bracts. Flowers bloom throughout the year.
How to Grow and Care
Growing Torch Ginger is possible in a range of soil types. A major problem when growing Torch Ginger plants is potassium deficiency. Potassium is necessary for the correct uptake of water, which is necessary for the optimum growth of this large plant.
Add potassium to the soil before growing Torch Gingers by working it into unplanted beds to about a foot (30 cm) deep. Organic means of adding potassium include the use of greensand, kelp or granite meal. Test the soil.
When growing these plants in established beds, fertilize with a food that is high in potassium. This is the third number on the fertilizer ratio displayed on the packaging. Once the potassium is right in the soil, watering, an important part of learning how to grow torch ginger successfully, will be more beneficial.
Origin
Native to Malayasia and Indonesia.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Etlingera corneri Mood & Ibrahim
Common Names
Rose of Siam, Siam Rose
Synonyms
Etlingera terengganuensis
Scientific Classification
Family: Zingiberaceae
Genus: Etlingera
Flower
Color: Red
Bloom Time: Throughout the year
Description
Etlingera corneri is an erect, perennial herb that grows up to 13.1 feet (4 m), with distinct stems that bear leaves and other (leafless) stems bearing clusters of flowers. The overlapping outer cup bracts are silky porcelain red, shaped to create a rose shaped flower. The spectacular inflorescences are used as an exotic and long lasting cut flower in the Tropics.
How to Grow and Care
Growing Torch Ginger is possible in a range of soil types. A major problem when growing Torch Ginger plants is potassium deficiency. Potassium is necessary for the correct uptake of water, which is necessary for the optimum growth of this large plant.
Add potassium to the soil before growing Torch Gingers by working it into unplanted beds to about a foot (30 cm) deep. Organic means of adding potassium include the use of greensand, kelp or granite meal. Test the soil.
When growing these plants in established beds, fertilize with a food that is high in potassium. This is the third number on the fertilizer ratio displayed on the packaging. Once the potassium is right in the soil, watering, an important part of learning how to grow torch ginger successfully, will be more beneficial.
Origin
Native to southern Thailand and the northern region of the Malay Peninsula.
Etlingera corneri Mood & Ibrahim
Common Names
Rose of Siam, Siam Rose
Synonyms
Etlingera terengganuensis
Scientific Classification
Family: Zingiberaceae
Genus: Etlingera
Flower
Color: Red
Bloom Time: Throughout the year
Description
Etlingera corneri is an erect, perennial herb that grows up to 13.1 feet (4 m), with distinct stems that bear leaves and other (leafless) stems bearing clusters of flowers. The overlapping outer cup bracts are silky porcelain red, shaped to create a rose shaped flower. The spectacular inflorescences are used as an exotic and long lasting cut flower in the Tropics.
How to Grow and Care
Growing Torch Ginger is possible in a range of soil types. A major problem when growing Torch Ginger plants is potassium deficiency. Potassium is necessary for the correct uptake of water, which is necessary for the optimum growth of this large plant.
Add potassium to the soil before growing Torch Gingers by working it into unplanted beds to about a foot (30 cm) deep. Organic means of adding potassium include the use of greensand, kelp or granite meal. Test the soil.
When growing these plants in established beds, fertilize with a food that is high in potassium. This is the third number on the fertilizer ratio displayed on the packaging. Once the potassium is right in the soil, watering, an important part of learning how to grow torch ginger successfully, will be more beneficial.
Origin
Native to southern Thailand and the northern region of the Malay Peninsula.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Echeveria elegans Rose
Common Names
Mexican Snow Ball, Mexican Snowball, Mexican Gem, White Mexican Rose, Hens and Chicks, Pearl Echeveria
Synonyms
Echeveria tinctoria, Echeveria tinctorum
Scientific Classification
Family: Crassulaceae
Subfamily: Sedoideae
Tribe: Sedeae
Subtribe: Sedinae
Genus: Echeveria
Flower
Color: Pink and yellow
Bloom Time: Late winter and spring
Description
Echeveria elegans is a stemless or short-stemmed, clump-forming succulent evergreen perennial, growing up to 4 inches (10 cm) tall and up to 20 inches (50 cm) wide, with tight rosettes of pale green-blue fleshy leaves, bearing up to 10 inches (25 cm) long slender pink stalks of pink flowers with yellow tips in late winter and spring.
How to Grow and Care
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts. Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Origin
Native to semi-desert habitats in Mexico.
Echeveria elegans Rose
Common Names
Mexican Snow Ball, Mexican Snowball, Mexican Gem, White Mexican Rose, Hens and Chicks, Pearl Echeveria
Synonyms
Echeveria tinctoria, Echeveria tinctorum
Scientific Classification
Family: Crassulaceae
Subfamily: Sedoideae
Tribe: Sedeae
Subtribe: Sedinae
Genus: Echeveria
Flower
Color: Pink and yellow
Bloom Time: Late winter and spring
Description
Echeveria elegans is a stemless or short-stemmed, clump-forming succulent evergreen perennial, growing up to 4 inches (10 cm) tall and up to 20 inches (50 cm) wide, with tight rosettes of pale green-blue fleshy leaves, bearing up to 10 inches (25 cm) long slender pink stalks of pink flowers with yellow tips in late winter and spring.
How to Grow and Care
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts. Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Origin
Native to semi-desert habitats in Mexico.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Carnegiea gigantea (Engelm.) Britton & Rose
Common Names
Saguaro, Saguaro Cactus, Sahuaro, Giant Cactus, Sage of the Desert
Synonyms
Cereus giganteus (basionym), Pilocereus engelmannii, Pilocereus giganteus
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Echinocereeae
Genus: Carnegiea
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: April to June
Description
Carnegiea gigantea is a tall, tree-like, columnar in form cactus, up to 65 feet (20 m) tall. The ribbed stem can reach up to 2.5 feet (75 cm) in diameter. It is the largest columnar cactus native to the United States but is extremely slowly-growing, reaching only 0.24 inch (0.6 cm) tall after two years. It flowers once it has reached about 30–35 years of age and a height of about 6.6 feet (2 m). The first branches appear after it has reached a height of about 16.5 feet (5 m) and an age of 50 – 70 years. The white flowers appear just below the top of the stem and they are up to 5 inches (12.5 cm) long and up to 2.4 inches (6 cm) in diameter. The edible, red, fleshy fruits are up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. The Saguaro blossom is the State Wildflower of Arizona.
How to Grow and Care
Saguaro cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle. There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.It is not legal to procure a Saguaro cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted.
Origin
Native to the Sonoran Desert in the United States state of Arizona, the Mexican state of Sonora, and the Whipple Mountains and Imperial County areas of California.
Carnegiea gigantea (Engelm.) Britton & Rose
Common Names
Saguaro, Saguaro Cactus, Sahuaro, Giant Cactus, Sage of the Desert
Synonyms
Cereus giganteus (basionym), Pilocereus engelmannii, Pilocereus giganteus
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Echinocereeae
Genus: Carnegiea
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: April to June
Description
Carnegiea gigantea is a tall, tree-like, columnar in form cactus, up to 65 feet (20 m) tall. The ribbed stem can reach up to 2.5 feet (75 cm) in diameter. It is the largest columnar cactus native to the United States but is extremely slowly-growing, reaching only 0.24 inch (0.6 cm) tall after two years. It flowers once it has reached about 30–35 years of age and a height of about 6.6 feet (2 m). The first branches appear after it has reached a height of about 16.5 feet (5 m) and an age of 50 – 70 years. The white flowers appear just below the top of the stem and they are up to 5 inches (12.5 cm) long and up to 2.4 inches (6 cm) in diameter. The edible, red, fleshy fruits are up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. The Saguaro blossom is the State Wildflower of Arizona.
How to Grow and Care
Saguaro cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle. There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.It is not legal to procure a Saguaro cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted.
Origin
Native to the Sonoran Desert in the United States state of Arizona, the Mexican state of Sonora, and the Whipple Mountains and Imperial County areas of California.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Camellia japonica L.
Common Names
Camellia, Japanese Camellia, Rose of Winter
Synonyms
Camellia bonnardi, Camellia bonnardii, Camellia florida, Camellia hayaoi, Camellia hozanensis, Kemelia japonica, Thea japonica
Scientific Classification
Family: Theaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Cacteae
Genus: Camellia
Flower
Color: From pure white to deep red
Bloom Time: Winter to spring
Description
Camellia japonica is a flowering tree or shrub, up to 20 feet (6 m) tall, but occasionally up to 36 feet (11 m) tall. The alternately arranged leathery leaves are dark green on the top side, paler on the underside, up to 4 inches (10 cm) long. The flowers, which range in color from pure white to deep red, are up to 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter and are produced from winter to spring.
How to Grow and Care
Choose a large rugged pot, terracotta, wood or stone, and part fill with ericaceous compost and then add your plant and back fill so that the level of the pot is level with the soil. Water well, preferably with water taken from a water butt. If you do use tap water, which tends to be alkaline, allow it to stand for a morning first.
Re-pot every other year into fresh potting compost. In the intervening years remove the top 2 inches (5 cm) of compost and add fresh compost. You can re-pot back into the same pot if you trim off up to a third of the roots to make room for fresh potting compost, or go up into a larger pot. This regime will keep your Camellia happy.
Camellias are fast-growing tap-rotted plants and the new growth can snap off in windy positions so staking is advisable for the first few years until the Camellia becomes bushy. They do tolerate windy conditions however, once established, and are often used as windbreaks in gardens where they thrive.
Origin
Native to China, Taiwan, southern Korea and southern Japan.
Camellia japonica L.
Common Names
Camellia, Japanese Camellia, Rose of Winter
Synonyms
Camellia bonnardi, Camellia bonnardii, Camellia florida, Camellia hayaoi, Camellia hozanensis, Kemelia japonica, Thea japonica
Scientific Classification
Family: Theaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Cacteae
Genus: Camellia
Flower
Color: From pure white to deep red
Bloom Time: Winter to spring
Description
Camellia japonica is a flowering tree or shrub, up to 20 feet (6 m) tall, but occasionally up to 36 feet (11 m) tall. The alternately arranged leathery leaves are dark green on the top side, paler on the underside, up to 4 inches (10 cm) long. The flowers, which range in color from pure white to deep red, are up to 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter and are produced from winter to spring.
How to Grow and Care
Choose a large rugged pot, terracotta, wood or stone, and part fill with ericaceous compost and then add your plant and back fill so that the level of the pot is level with the soil. Water well, preferably with water taken from a water butt. If you do use tap water, which tends to be alkaline, allow it to stand for a morning first.
Re-pot every other year into fresh potting compost. In the intervening years remove the top 2 inches (5 cm) of compost and add fresh compost. You can re-pot back into the same pot if you trim off up to a third of the roots to make room for fresh potting compost, or go up into a larger pot. This regime will keep your Camellia happy.
Camellias are fast-growing tap-rotted plants and the new growth can snap off in windy positions so staking is advisable for the first few years until the Camellia becomes bushy. They do tolerate windy conditions however, once established, and are often used as windbreaks in gardens where they thrive.
Origin
Native to China, Taiwan, southern Korea and southern Japan.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Rosa rubiginosa L.
Common Names
Sweet Briar, Sweet Briar Rose, Sweet Brier, Eglantine, Eglantine Rose
Synonyms
Chabertia rubiginosa, Laggeria eglanteria, Rosa x almeriensis, Rosa x braunii, Rosa eglanteria, Rosa floribunda, Rosa moutinii, Rosa rugibinosa, Rosa uliginosa
Scientific Classification
Family: Rosaceae
Subfamily: Rosoideae
Genus: Rosa
Flower
Color: Pink with a white base
Bloom Time: Late spring to mid summer
Description
Rosa rubiginosa is a dense, deciduous shrub up to 10 feet (3 m) high and across, with the stems bearing numerous hooked prickles. The foliage has a strong apple-like fragrance. The leaves are pinnate, up to 3.6 inches (9 cm) long, with 5 to 9 rounded to oval leaflets with a serrated margin, and numerous glandular hairs. The flowers are up to 1.2 inches (3 cm) in diameter, the 5 petals being pink with a white base, and the numerous stamens yellow. The flowers are produced in clusters of 2 to 7 together, from late spring to mid summer. The fruit is a globose to oblong red hip, up to 0.8 inch (2 cm) diameter.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 4a to 9b: from −30 °F (−34.4 °C) to 30 °F (−1.1 °C).
How to Grow and Care
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting.
Origin
Native to Europe and western Asia.
Rosa rubiginosa L.
Common Names
Sweet Briar, Sweet Briar Rose, Sweet Brier, Eglantine, Eglantine Rose
Synonyms
Chabertia rubiginosa, Laggeria eglanteria, Rosa x almeriensis, Rosa x braunii, Rosa eglanteria, Rosa floribunda, Rosa moutinii, Rosa rugibinosa, Rosa uliginosa
Scientific Classification
Family: Rosaceae
Subfamily: Rosoideae
Genus: Rosa
Flower
Color: Pink with a white base
Bloom Time: Late spring to mid summer
Description
Rosa rubiginosa is a dense, deciduous shrub up to 10 feet (3 m) high and across, with the stems bearing numerous hooked prickles. The foliage has a strong apple-like fragrance. The leaves are pinnate, up to 3.6 inches (9 cm) long, with 5 to 9 rounded to oval leaflets with a serrated margin, and numerous glandular hairs. The flowers are up to 1.2 inches (3 cm) in diameter, the 5 petals being pink with a white base, and the numerous stamens yellow. The flowers are produced in clusters of 2 to 7 together, from late spring to mid summer. The fruit is a globose to oblong red hip, up to 0.8 inch (2 cm) diameter.
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 4a to 9b: from −30 °F (−34.4 °C) to 30 °F (−1.1 °C).
How to Grow and Care
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting.
Origin
Native to Europe and western Asia.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Rosa acicularis Lindl.
Common Names
Prickly Wild Rose, Prickly Rose, Bristly Rose, Wild Rose, Arctic Rose
Synonyms
Rosa acicularis subsp. acicularis, Rosa alpina, Rosa baicalensis, Rosa carelica, Rosa cinnamomea var. dahurica, Rosa desertorum, Rosa fauriei, Rosa gmelinii, Rosa korsakoviensis, Rosa lissinensis, Rosa ruprechtiana, Rosa sichotealinensis, Rosa suavis, Rosa taquetii
Scientific Classification
Family: Rosaceae
Subfamily: Rosoideae
Genus: Rosa
Flower
Color: Pink
Bloom Time: May to July
Description
Rosa acicularis is a deciduous shrub, growing up to 10 feet (3 m) tall. The leaves are pinnate, up to 6 inches (15 cm) long, with three to seven leaflets. The leaflets are ovate, with serrate (toothed) margins. The flowers are pink (rarely white), up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. The hips are red, pear-shaped to ovoid, up to 0.6 inch (1.5 cm) in diameter.
How to Grow and Care
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting.
Origin
Native to northern regions of Asia, Europe, and North America.
Rosa acicularis Lindl.
Common Names
Prickly Wild Rose, Prickly Rose, Bristly Rose, Wild Rose, Arctic Rose
Synonyms
Rosa acicularis subsp. acicularis, Rosa alpina, Rosa baicalensis, Rosa carelica, Rosa cinnamomea var. dahurica, Rosa desertorum, Rosa fauriei, Rosa gmelinii, Rosa korsakoviensis, Rosa lissinensis, Rosa ruprechtiana, Rosa sichotealinensis, Rosa suavis, Rosa taquetii
Scientific Classification
Family: Rosaceae
Subfamily: Rosoideae
Genus: Rosa
Flower
Color: Pink
Bloom Time: May to July
Description
Rosa acicularis is a deciduous shrub, growing up to 10 feet (3 m) tall. The leaves are pinnate, up to 6 inches (15 cm) long, with three to seven leaflets. The leaflets are ovate, with serrate (toothed) margins. The flowers are pink (rarely white), up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. The hips are red, pear-shaped to ovoid, up to 0.6 inch (1.5 cm) in diameter.
How to Grow and Care
When growing roses, it’s important to choose a site receiving at least 6 hours of sun each day. Rose bushes must also be located in well-drained, fertile soil. Plant dormant roses in early spring (or fall). Potted plants can be planted any time between spring and fall, but preferably spring.
If you’re planting bare root roses, presoak them in water for at least 24 hours prior to placing them in the ground.
Both bare root and potted rose bushes need to be planted about 2 feet (60 cm) deep, with the hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Backfill the hole with soil, adding some well-rotted manure in with it and water thoroughly. Then mound up additional soil around the base of the plant. Note that this is not necessary for actively growing roses.
Caring for rose bushes is important to their overall health and vigor, especially when it comes to watering. Roses require at least an inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly throughout their growing season, beginning in spring or following spring planting.
Origin
Native to northern regions of Asia, Europe, and North America.
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