文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If you have roses that have been invaded by insects, there are a number of ways to get rid of these annoying garden pests. Some of the most common insects that attack rose bushes are aphids, spider mites and leafhoppers.Roses faced with an infestation should be tended to quickly. With some diligence, a once healthy rose bush can survive the attacks of insects. Take a minute to recognize and diagnose the infestation and you’ll discover with a little care and attention you can combat any insect invasion using the following methods.
Step 1
Establish a regular schedule for pest control. Take the time every two weeks to spray the plants with a soap and water solution. In a plastic spray bottle, mix about a tablespoon of liquid soap and tap water and spray roses with the solution.
Step 2
Encourage insect-eating birds such as bluebirds, robins, orioles and wrens to visit your rose garden by hanging a bird feeder nearby. You can buy a bird feeder at a local home and garden supply store where prices range from as little as $7.99 up to $39.99. Fill the feeder with wild birdseed and hang it near the rose garden. Not only will the birds eat the bugs off the rose bushes but they are a delightful asset to any garden.
Step 3
Purchase insect eating predators from gardening catalogs, the local garden center or go on-line to websites such as www.buglogical.com to order insects for the garden. Ladybugs and Praying mantis, the most popular garden predators, can help keep the population of aphids and other garden pests under control. Before they are released in the garden, insects should be stored in the refrigerator or in a cool place. When you are ready, thaw the package and release the insects in the garden. Let the food chain take its course.
Step 4
Prune any diseased leaves and canes and discard cuttings away from rose beds. Destroy any leaves and canes that can still harbor garden pests and insects that are still feeding on the cuttings. Destroy cuttings by throwing them into a plastic bag and sealing it shut. Or, if possible, burn the cuttings.
Step 5
Do a cleanup before your rose bushes go dormant for the season. You will have fewer insects if you thoroughly clean all debris from around the beds before the winter. Rake up any fallen leaves and dump them in the garbage away from the garden. Remove any old mulch and replace it with fresh mulch.
Step 1
Establish a regular schedule for pest control. Take the time every two weeks to spray the plants with a soap and water solution. In a plastic spray bottle, mix about a tablespoon of liquid soap and tap water and spray roses with the solution.
Step 2
Encourage insect-eating birds such as bluebirds, robins, orioles and wrens to visit your rose garden by hanging a bird feeder nearby. You can buy a bird feeder at a local home and garden supply store where prices range from as little as $7.99 up to $39.99. Fill the feeder with wild birdseed and hang it near the rose garden. Not only will the birds eat the bugs off the rose bushes but they are a delightful asset to any garden.
Step 3
Purchase insect eating predators from gardening catalogs, the local garden center or go on-line to websites such as www.buglogical.com to order insects for the garden. Ladybugs and Praying mantis, the most popular garden predators, can help keep the population of aphids and other garden pests under control. Before they are released in the garden, insects should be stored in the refrigerator or in a cool place. When you are ready, thaw the package and release the insects in the garden. Let the food chain take its course.
Step 4
Prune any diseased leaves and canes and discard cuttings away from rose beds. Destroy any leaves and canes that can still harbor garden pests and insects that are still feeding on the cuttings. Destroy cuttings by throwing them into a plastic bag and sealing it shut. Or, if possible, burn the cuttings.
Step 5
Do a cleanup before your rose bushes go dormant for the season. You will have fewer insects if you thoroughly clean all debris from around the beds before the winter. Rake up any fallen leaves and dump them in the garbage away from the garden. Remove any old mulch and replace it with fresh mulch.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses make a wonderful addition to any garden. If you are fortunate to come across a wild rose, you can easily transplant it to your own garden, adding beauty and uniqueness. With the right know-how and the proper tools, you can add this thriving plant to just about any setting.
Step 1
Find the plant you prefer. If you have a choice of multiple plants, look for one that is particularly healthy. Make sure you choose a plant that is the right size for your garden as well.
Step 2
Wait until the dormant season to transplant. Wild roses are best transplanted in their dormant season, sometime from November through February. You can of course try to transplant them during other parts of the year, but the dormant season gives the best results.
Step 3
Dig up the plant. Dig as deeply as you can to get as much of the long taproot as possible. Depending on the age of the plant, you may not be able to dig out the entire root. So long as you get most of the root, the plant should not suffer any damage if the root is cut. Wild roses also have numerous smaller roots. These can be trimmed if necessary.
Step 4
Transfer the plant to a large piece of plastic, a tarp or a large flower pot. Dig up some of the surrounding soil as well, and place it into the plastic or pot. This will help the rose acclimate to its new home.
Step 5
Dig a hole in your garden to accommodate the new rose. Dig deeply and add in some of the original soil and some humus or other organic material. This is very important for the rose's growth in the new growing season.
Step 6
Gently place the rose into the hole, and with a mixture of soil and organic material, fill the hole. Water the rose in well as this will help the transplant thrive. Add a mound of mulch around the base of the rose and wait until the spring for new growth.
Step 1
Find the plant you prefer. If you have a choice of multiple plants, look for one that is particularly healthy. Make sure you choose a plant that is the right size for your garden as well.
Step 2
Wait until the dormant season to transplant. Wild roses are best transplanted in their dormant season, sometime from November through February. You can of course try to transplant them during other parts of the year, but the dormant season gives the best results.
Step 3
Dig up the plant. Dig as deeply as you can to get as much of the long taproot as possible. Depending on the age of the plant, you may not be able to dig out the entire root. So long as you get most of the root, the plant should not suffer any damage if the root is cut. Wild roses also have numerous smaller roots. These can be trimmed if necessary.
Step 4
Transfer the plant to a large piece of plastic, a tarp or a large flower pot. Dig up some of the surrounding soil as well, and place it into the plastic or pot. This will help the rose acclimate to its new home.
Step 5
Dig a hole in your garden to accommodate the new rose. Dig deeply and add in some of the original soil and some humus or other organic material. This is very important for the rose's growth in the new growing season.
Step 6
Gently place the rose into the hole, and with a mixture of soil and organic material, fill the hole. Water the rose in well as this will help the transplant thrive. Add a mound of mulch around the base of the rose and wait until the spring for new growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Most cultivated rose varieties (Rosa spp.) are hybrids, rather than the natural "species" roses found growing in the wild. These wild rose species tend to grow vigorously, and require regular pruning to keep them in check. The best time for pruning wild roses is after they bloom. Wear gloves when pruning, because wild roses typically have many thorns.
Wild Roses
One wild rose so common it grows as a weed in some areas is the multiflora, or rambler, rose (Rosa multiflora). This plant grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and may occasionally grow outside this range. It is considered an invasive plant, but can be kept under control by removing new canes that sprout up throughout the growing season. Other species roses that grow wild, but don't spread as fast, require less severe pruning. They may grow in USDA zones 2 through 11, depending on the species.
Pruning Goals
Most cultivated roses are grafted onto a host rootstock, but wild roses grow on their own roots and send up new canes directly from the soil rather than a graft union. When pruning these roses, the main goals are to remove dead or diseased canes and give the plant an attractive shape. To thin the rose clump, remove entire canes at soil level. To encourage new growth or shape the rose, cut canes at a 45-degree angle right above the place where a healthy leaf meets the cane. The leaf chosen should be growing outward from the center of the rose plant. When cutting flowers or pruning canes, remove only about 25 percent of the rose plant's height.
When to Prune
Most pruning for wild roses should be done after the plant flowers. This pruning focuses on removing unwanted shoots and choosing four to eight canes that will be allowed to grow and flower next year. Wild roses, including multiflora rose, bloom on last year's wood, so heavy pruning in the fall or spring would remove the canes that will produce blooms. In fall, remove spindly growth and root suckers that have developed over the summer. In spring, remove only canes that died over the winter.
Pruning Tips
Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or a pruning knife when working with roses. After pruning, cover the cut ends with pruning paint or white glue to seal the ends of the canes, advises University of Illinois Extension. This helps prevent disease and insect infestation, particularly cane borers. It is a good precaution to disinfect pruning tools after each use, to prevent the spread of diseases among plants. Do this by soaking the tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. After soaking, rinse tools with clean water and allow them to air-dry before using or storing.
Wild Roses
One wild rose so common it grows as a weed in some areas is the multiflora, or rambler, rose (Rosa multiflora). This plant grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and may occasionally grow outside this range. It is considered an invasive plant, but can be kept under control by removing new canes that sprout up throughout the growing season. Other species roses that grow wild, but don't spread as fast, require less severe pruning. They may grow in USDA zones 2 through 11, depending on the species.
Pruning Goals
Most cultivated roses are grafted onto a host rootstock, but wild roses grow on their own roots and send up new canes directly from the soil rather than a graft union. When pruning these roses, the main goals are to remove dead or diseased canes and give the plant an attractive shape. To thin the rose clump, remove entire canes at soil level. To encourage new growth or shape the rose, cut canes at a 45-degree angle right above the place where a healthy leaf meets the cane. The leaf chosen should be growing outward from the center of the rose plant. When cutting flowers or pruning canes, remove only about 25 percent of the rose plant's height.
When to Prune
Most pruning for wild roses should be done after the plant flowers. This pruning focuses on removing unwanted shoots and choosing four to eight canes that will be allowed to grow and flower next year. Wild roses, including multiflora rose, bloom on last year's wood, so heavy pruning in the fall or spring would remove the canes that will produce blooms. In fall, remove spindly growth and root suckers that have developed over the summer. In spring, remove only canes that died over the winter.
Pruning Tips
Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or a pruning knife when working with roses. After pruning, cover the cut ends with pruning paint or white glue to seal the ends of the canes, advises University of Illinois Extension. This helps prevent disease and insect infestation, particularly cane borers. It is a good precaution to disinfect pruning tools after each use, to prevent the spread of diseases among plants. Do this by soaking the tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. After soaking, rinse tools with clean water and allow them to air-dry before using or storing.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
The original cherry red-flowered Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radrazz') and its varieties produce showy flowers and are relatively disease-resistant. The shrubs grow up to 5 feet high and wide, thriving in full sun and well-drained soil with a pH level between 6.0 and 6.5.
Knock Out rose varieties produce 3-inch-wide, lightly fragrant flowers throughout spring and summer, and nearly all year in locations such as Florida. The blooms of Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtko') and Pink Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtkopink') have twice as many petals as the flowers of other Knock Out varieties, referred to as single Knock Outs. Single and double Knock Outs are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10 or zones 5 through 11, depending on the source. Pruning both kinds of Knock Out roses on a regular basis helps keep them healthy and shaped.
Spring and Fall Pruning
Single and double Knock Out roses benefit from an annual late-winter or early-spring pruning, whether they grow in cool or warm climates. Wait until the shrubs have had at least their second year of growth to prune them, however; they are mature then.
The best time for spring pruning is when their leaf buds have swelled but before the new growth appears. In cool regions, the shrubs usually can be pruned from mid-February to early March or April. In warm regions, late January to mid-February is generally a suitable time to prune. You can prune again in late summer or early fall.
Conditions That Warrant Pruning
At any time of the year, you can remove dead, diseased or damaged branches from Knock Out roses. Although the shrubs tend to resist diseases, you may see occasional disease symptoms, including yellow leaves, peeling bark and a white, powdery mildew on the leaves and stems. Prune and destroy branches that show such symptoms; the disease-resistant plants probably will recover on their own.
If your Knock Out rose bushes serve as a privacy screen, then an option is simply to remove their dead wood and allow the shrubs to grow taller.
Promote air circulation and prevent diseases by removing branches that rub against other branches.
Pruning Gear and Methods
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long, protective gloves to avoid injury from Knock Out roses' thorns. Prune the shrubs with bypass pruners, which have a scissorlike cutting action. Avoid using anvil pruners, which damage stem tissue, according to North Carolina Cooperative Extension.
Before you prune, sterilize the pruners by soaking them for five minutes in a solution that is 1 part 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol and 1 part water to prevent spreading plant diseases; rinse the tool with clean water. Also sterilize the pruning tool occasionally between cuts on the same bush and before you prune a different bush. Keep pruning tools and disinfectants away from children and pets.
During spring and fall pruning, remove one-half to one-third of each Knock Out rose's growth,* but do not cut a plant shorter than 2 feet tall. Make each cut slanted and about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing leaf bud, with the cut slanting away from the bud. Staggering the cuts will give a shrub a dome shape.
Removal of Old Flowers
In summer, you have the option to deadhead, or remove, spent flower clusters from Knock Out rose bushes. Although deadheading is not a necessity, the practice helps control plant size and promotes late-season blooming. Deadheading is not a severe form of pruning and minimizes stress to the plants during hot summer months.
Deadhead a faded flower cluster by cutting its stem just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower cluster. If you want to trim leggy or uneven growth, then make the cut above a leaf that is 6 to 8 inches below the old flower cluster.
Knock Out rose varieties produce 3-inch-wide, lightly fragrant flowers throughout spring and summer, and nearly all year in locations such as Florida. The blooms of Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtko') and Pink Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtkopink') have twice as many petals as the flowers of other Knock Out varieties, referred to as single Knock Outs. Single and double Knock Outs are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10 or zones 5 through 11, depending on the source. Pruning both kinds of Knock Out roses on a regular basis helps keep them healthy and shaped.
Spring and Fall Pruning
Single and double Knock Out roses benefit from an annual late-winter or early-spring pruning, whether they grow in cool or warm climates. Wait until the shrubs have had at least their second year of growth to prune them, however; they are mature then.
The best time for spring pruning is when their leaf buds have swelled but before the new growth appears. In cool regions, the shrubs usually can be pruned from mid-February to early March or April. In warm regions, late January to mid-February is generally a suitable time to prune. You can prune again in late summer or early fall.
Conditions That Warrant Pruning
At any time of the year, you can remove dead, diseased or damaged branches from Knock Out roses. Although the shrubs tend to resist diseases, you may see occasional disease symptoms, including yellow leaves, peeling bark and a white, powdery mildew on the leaves and stems. Prune and destroy branches that show such symptoms; the disease-resistant plants probably will recover on their own.
If your Knock Out rose bushes serve as a privacy screen, then an option is simply to remove their dead wood and allow the shrubs to grow taller.
Promote air circulation and prevent diseases by removing branches that rub against other branches.
Pruning Gear and Methods
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long, protective gloves to avoid injury from Knock Out roses' thorns. Prune the shrubs with bypass pruners, which have a scissorlike cutting action. Avoid using anvil pruners, which damage stem tissue, according to North Carolina Cooperative Extension.
Before you prune, sterilize the pruners by soaking them for five minutes in a solution that is 1 part 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol and 1 part water to prevent spreading plant diseases; rinse the tool with clean water. Also sterilize the pruning tool occasionally between cuts on the same bush and before you prune a different bush. Keep pruning tools and disinfectants away from children and pets.
During spring and fall pruning, remove one-half to one-third of each Knock Out rose's growth,* but do not cut a plant shorter than 2 feet tall. Make each cut slanted and about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing leaf bud, with the cut slanting away from the bud. Staggering the cuts will give a shrub a dome shape.
Removal of Old Flowers
In summer, you have the option to deadhead, or remove, spent flower clusters from Knock Out rose bushes. Although deadheading is not a necessity, the practice helps control plant size and promotes late-season blooming. Deadheading is not a severe form of pruning and minimizes stress to the plants during hot summer months.
Deadhead a faded flower cluster by cutting its stem just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower cluster. If you want to trim leggy or uneven growth, then make the cut above a leaf that is 6 to 8 inches below the old flower cluster.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
The classic beauty of the rose makes it a garden favorite. Its trademark blossom comes in an array of hues and subtle distinctions. There are many varieties of rose bushes, some are climbers and others are shrubs. A climbing rose bush can weave itself over a trellis, or a row of shrubs can form a colorful hedge. Dedicated rose gardeners know that the fragrant flower requires periodic nurturing.
Step 1
Stop cutting roses off your bush by late fall. This allows the seeds to develop which signals the bush to move into dormancy. As the weather gets colder, this dormancy with help protect the plant.
Step 2
Stop dead heading by late fall. This means to stop removing the dead flowers.
Step 3
Don't prune for winter. You will need to prune after the frost.
Step 4
Prune tall rose bushes only if necessary for winter covering. Put on protective gloves.
Step 5
Clean your pruning shears, to avoid spreading disease.
Step 6
Cut at a 45 degree angle to the stem axis. Keep pruning to a minimum, removing only what is necessary for covering the plant.
Step 1
Stop cutting roses off your bush by late fall. This allows the seeds to develop which signals the bush to move into dormancy. As the weather gets colder, this dormancy with help protect the plant.
Step 2
Stop dead heading by late fall. This means to stop removing the dead flowers.
Step 3
Don't prune for winter. You will need to prune after the frost.
Step 4
Prune tall rose bushes only if necessary for winter covering. Put on protective gloves.
Step 5
Clean your pruning shears, to avoid spreading disease.
Step 6
Cut at a 45 degree angle to the stem axis. Keep pruning to a minimum, removing only what is necessary for covering the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Bananas continue their usefulness even after you've eaten the fruit. The inedible peels provide potassium and magnesium to nutrient-hungry plants, including rose bushes (Rosa spp), which thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 11. Some gardeners also swear by banana peels' ability to deter aphids -- the bane of rose growers everywhere. If you're a banana lover, you have a few options for using the castoff peels to nourish and protect roses.
A Banana a Day
Whole peels deteriorate more slowly than strips or chunks, robbing your roses of the more immediate benefits of the decomposing plant material. Once you've peeled your banana, chop the peels into strips or chunks. This is also a good time to get rid of the blackened whole bananas you never got around to -- just chop the whole fruit, flesh and all, and mix it with the processed peels. If you don't eat bananas frequently, save the chopped pieces in the freezer, either in a jar or a tightly sealed bag.
Daily Dose
To feed individual rose bushes, gently remove about 1 inch of soil in a circular trench around the bush's base. After scattering the chopped peels in this circular trench, backfill it with soil and replace mulch, if necessary. If you have a rose hedge, work your way along the row over the course of the growing season. Dig a short shallow trench in front of a new section of the rose hedge each day, backfilling with soil and mulch as you go. When rotting fruit makes up a portion of the daily dose, digging the trench more deeply will deter foraging pests, as will mixing in wood ashes to neutralize the scent.
Tropical Mulch
If you have the room to spread out peels to dry them, you can make a material that mulches and nourishes your rose bushes at the same time. Spreading the peels flat on screens in a dark, dry room is the least labor-intensive method -- especially if you are consuming bananas during the roses' long dormant season -- but you can also dry the peels in a dehydrator or in a low oven. Once you've accumulated several pounds of dried peels, grind them in a food processor. Scatter this mulch around the rose bushes in the spring.
Piling On
Mixing chopped banana peels into the compost pile is another option for feeding rose bushes. This method is especially helpful if you either don't wish to bury the bananas around the rose bushes every few days or don't eat enough of the fruit to make feeding individual roses worth the while. Instead, mix the peels in with your other fruit and vegetable peelings, and toss them on the compost pile, where the peels will add their nutrients as they break down. It's best to either bury the fresh food scraps a few feet into the compost pile or mix them with wood ashes before tossing them on the pile.
A Banana a Day
Whole peels deteriorate more slowly than strips or chunks, robbing your roses of the more immediate benefits of the decomposing plant material. Once you've peeled your banana, chop the peels into strips or chunks. This is also a good time to get rid of the blackened whole bananas you never got around to -- just chop the whole fruit, flesh and all, and mix it with the processed peels. If you don't eat bananas frequently, save the chopped pieces in the freezer, either in a jar or a tightly sealed bag.
Daily Dose
To feed individual rose bushes, gently remove about 1 inch of soil in a circular trench around the bush's base. After scattering the chopped peels in this circular trench, backfill it with soil and replace mulch, if necessary. If you have a rose hedge, work your way along the row over the course of the growing season. Dig a short shallow trench in front of a new section of the rose hedge each day, backfilling with soil and mulch as you go. When rotting fruit makes up a portion of the daily dose, digging the trench more deeply will deter foraging pests, as will mixing in wood ashes to neutralize the scent.
Tropical Mulch
If you have the room to spread out peels to dry them, you can make a material that mulches and nourishes your rose bushes at the same time. Spreading the peels flat on screens in a dark, dry room is the least labor-intensive method -- especially if you are consuming bananas during the roses' long dormant season -- but you can also dry the peels in a dehydrator or in a low oven. Once you've accumulated several pounds of dried peels, grind them in a food processor. Scatter this mulch around the rose bushes in the spring.
Piling On
Mixing chopped banana peels into the compost pile is another option for feeding rose bushes. This method is especially helpful if you either don't wish to bury the bananas around the rose bushes every few days or don't eat enough of the fruit to make feeding individual roses worth the while. Instead, mix the peels in with your other fruit and vegetable peelings, and toss them on the compost pile, where the peels will add their nutrients as they break down. It's best to either bury the fresh food scraps a few feet into the compost pile or mix them with wood ashes before tossing them on the pile.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses should be pruned each year to keep the plant healthy and promote the fullest and best blooms. If your rose bush has been neglected, it may not be too late to return it to a healthy status. Once you have cut out all of the old, dead or diseased canes, the plant gains increased air flow and you gain a healthy bush with blooms to enjoy throughout the growing season.
Preparation
Step 1
Put on a long-sleeved shirt to protect your arms from the thorns on the plant.
Step 2
Wear thorn-resistant gloves. Leather or coated gloves are good choices.
Step 3
Dip the blades of your pruning equipment into hydrogen peroxide to disinfect the blades before beginning.
Procedures
Step 4
Cut an area out of the side of the bush with hand pruners to allow access to the center of the plant.
Step 5
Reach into the center of the plant to cut out dead or dried-out canes.
Step 6
Cut out all dead canes at the base of the plant. Use the loppers for the thicker canes and the hand pruners for the smaller canes.
Step 7
Select one-third of the remaining strong canes to stay on the plant. The canes should be about the diameter of a pencil. Remove the rest of the canes using the hand pruners.
Step 8
Cut the remaining canes down by one-half to two-thirds of the plant. Cut the stems about 1/4 inch above an outward facing leaf bud at a 45-degree angle. The cut should slant away from the bud. Apply wood glue to the cut stems to seal them and prevent wood borers from getting inside the stems.
Step 9
Trim all leaves from the remaining stems. Dig down to the root to remove any suckers. Tear them off where they originate to prevent additional suckers from growing.
Step 10
Clean up any leaves that drop to the ground around the base of the plant to prevent the spread of fungal disease that may be present in the leaves. Apply rose plant food around the base of the plant.
Preparation
Step 1
Put on a long-sleeved shirt to protect your arms from the thorns on the plant.
Step 2
Wear thorn-resistant gloves. Leather or coated gloves are good choices.
Step 3
Dip the blades of your pruning equipment into hydrogen peroxide to disinfect the blades before beginning.
Procedures
Step 4
Cut an area out of the side of the bush with hand pruners to allow access to the center of the plant.
Step 5
Reach into the center of the plant to cut out dead or dried-out canes.
Step 6
Cut out all dead canes at the base of the plant. Use the loppers for the thicker canes and the hand pruners for the smaller canes.
Step 7
Select one-third of the remaining strong canes to stay on the plant. The canes should be about the diameter of a pencil. Remove the rest of the canes using the hand pruners.
Step 8
Cut the remaining canes down by one-half to two-thirds of the plant. Cut the stems about 1/4 inch above an outward facing leaf bud at a 45-degree angle. The cut should slant away from the bud. Apply wood glue to the cut stems to seal them and prevent wood borers from getting inside the stems.
Step 9
Trim all leaves from the remaining stems. Dig down to the root to remove any suckers. Tear them off where they originate to prevent additional suckers from growing.
Step 10
Clean up any leaves that drop to the ground around the base of the plant to prevent the spread of fungal disease that may be present in the leaves. Apply rose plant food around the base of the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Miniature roses may look delicate with their tiny blooms, but they are a surprisingly hardy plant. Although they have been bred specifically to curtail their size, they retain much of the hardiness of rose bushes that tower over them in size. Many can be grown outside year round in zones 6 through 10 and will survive to zone 4 if heavily mulched and protected from winter weather. Their size makes them ideal as houseplants that thrive on sunny windowsills.
Step 1
Plant miniature roses in all-purpose potting soil. Provide adequate drainage by covering the drainage holes with pebbles or broken shards from clay pots.
Step 2
Grow on a sunny windowsill. Some require supplemental lighting. Watch your roses for signs of inadequate light. If the stems stretch leaving bare spaces between leaves, it may be an indication that the rose bush is reaching for more light. A miniature rose should be short and compact with full foliage.
Step 3
Pinch out new growth to encourage the plant to bush out. This creates a full plant with abundant foliage. If the plant still stretches for light, you may need to add supplemental lighting. You can purchase grow lights for plants at your local hardware or garden supply store.
Step 4
Place the pot on a pebble tray. Add water to cover the pebbles. The bottom of the pot should rest above the water level. As the water evaporates, it will provide your miniature rose with the added humidity it desires.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist, but avoid soggy soil. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Step 6
Fertilize with a water-soluble fertilizer designed for roses. Mix the solution to quarter-strength and use to water the rose every seven to 10 days from March until November. Allow the plant to rest during the winter months and resume fertilizing in the spring.
Step 7
Deadhead spent blooms to encourage the rose bush to continue blooming. Removing the flowers before they can set seed; this tricks the plant into thinking it has not produced enough blooms.
Step 1
Plant miniature roses in all-purpose potting soil. Provide adequate drainage by covering the drainage holes with pebbles or broken shards from clay pots.
Step 2
Grow on a sunny windowsill. Some require supplemental lighting. Watch your roses for signs of inadequate light. If the stems stretch leaving bare spaces between leaves, it may be an indication that the rose bush is reaching for more light. A miniature rose should be short and compact with full foliage.
Step 3
Pinch out new growth to encourage the plant to bush out. This creates a full plant with abundant foliage. If the plant still stretches for light, you may need to add supplemental lighting. You can purchase grow lights for plants at your local hardware or garden supply store.
Step 4
Place the pot on a pebble tray. Add water to cover the pebbles. The bottom of the pot should rest above the water level. As the water evaporates, it will provide your miniature rose with the added humidity it desires.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist, but avoid soggy soil. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Step 6
Fertilize with a water-soluble fertilizer designed for roses. Mix the solution to quarter-strength and use to water the rose every seven to 10 days from March until November. Allow the plant to rest during the winter months and resume fertilizing in the spring.
Step 7
Deadhead spent blooms to encourage the rose bush to continue blooming. Removing the flowers before they can set seed; this tricks the plant into thinking it has not produced enough blooms.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose bushes (Rosa spp.) must be pruned at least once or twice each year. Heavy pruning is done in winter or, in some climates, early spring. Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the species. Prune the roses again in summer or fall right after they bloom to tidy them up and encourage new cane growth. Roses that produce flowers in spring and again in fall bloom more profusely in fall when pruned right after their spring bloom cycle.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
True black roses do not exist in nature. Although many roses carry the word "black" in their name, such as Black Jade and Black Prince, they are really just roses that are a very deep, dark red in color. The most popular type of "black" rose is the Black Jade. For tips on how to grow a Black Jade, follow the tips below. For tips on how to make your roses really black, check out the "Tips" section at the end of the article.
Step 1
Plant your rose bush in sandy soil that has been loosened. If your soil is heavy with clay, add some sand or organic mulch. The location should be in partial shade. Dig a hole about 4 inches wider than the root ball and as deep as the top of the base of the plant. Pack the soil loosely around the plant and water.
Step 2
Keep the soil just barely moist. During hot weather, water at least three times per week. Do not let water stand, as this could lead to mold growth.
Step 3
Add a fertilizer made especially for roses as per the directions on the bag. Most fertilizers are used at the start of the growing season (early spring) and once in the middle of the growing season (mid-summer).
Step 4
Prune your rose bush in the winter. January or February is best. Prune all the way down so that there are only 4 to 6 inches left on each stem.
Step 5
Watch for brown spots on the petals or leaves. These roses are quite fragile and vulnerable to fungus. Remove any spotted leaves and treat with a fungicide immediately.
Step 1
Plant your rose bush in sandy soil that has been loosened. If your soil is heavy with clay, add some sand or organic mulch. The location should be in partial shade. Dig a hole about 4 inches wider than the root ball and as deep as the top of the base of the plant. Pack the soil loosely around the plant and water.
Step 2
Keep the soil just barely moist. During hot weather, water at least three times per week. Do not let water stand, as this could lead to mold growth.
Step 3
Add a fertilizer made especially for roses as per the directions on the bag. Most fertilizers are used at the start of the growing season (early spring) and once in the middle of the growing season (mid-summer).
Step 4
Prune your rose bush in the winter. January or February is best. Prune all the way down so that there are only 4 to 6 inches left on each stem.
Step 5
Watch for brown spots on the petals or leaves. These roses are quite fragile and vulnerable to fungus. Remove any spotted leaves and treat with a fungicide immediately.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If you're wondering whether your rose bush (Rosa spp.) is dead or alive, you're not alone. Roses go dormant over winter, and most look fairly dead by the time spring rolls around. Even if all of a rose's stems, or canes, look dry and black, the rose still might be alive.
Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety, and many survive winter even if part of them dies back. Several methods can be used to check whether or not a rose bush is still alive in spring. You can also use these methods if you wonder whether or not a rose was killed by a disease or other problem.
Wait for Leaves
The simplest way to determine whether a rose is alive or dead is to wait to see if it sprouts leaves. Watch the plant carefully to see if leaf buds form along the stems. If they do, then you'll know what parts of the plant are dead and what parts are alive. Once you can see swollen leaf buds, begin spring pruning to remove dead wood.
Check for Green
If you don't want to wait for leaves to sprout or you haven't noticed signs of the rose's life in spring, then check whether or not any parts of the rose canes are still alive. First, pull away any winter protection from the base of the plant. Starting midway down a cane, use a sterilized pruning knife to scrape away the outer layer of bark. If the cane is alive, you'll see a green layer under the bark. If the cane is dead, the inner layer will be brown. Keep using the knife periodically down the cane until you either find a green layer or reach the base of the plant. If you don't find green on any canes, then the rose bush is most likely dead.
Inspect Roots
Even if their upper canes are dead, some roses can come back from the roots. This fact depends on whether or not the roses are grafted. Some rose bush tops are grafted onto more vigorous root stocks to provide increased hardiness. Grafted roses include many hybrid roses, such as the cultivar 'Hotel California' (Rosa 'Hotel California,' USDA zones 5 through 9). Other roses are grown on their own roots. They include the Knock Out rose 'Radrazz' (Rosa 'Radrazz', USDA zones 4 through 9).
A grafted rose is considered dead if all the stems above the graft union are dead. The rose may still sprout from the roots, but it will not be the same kind of rose bush it was previously. Instead, it will be whatever rose species was used as its root stock, and it may not even bloom. Roses growing on their own roots, however, can still come back from the roots. Before removing those plants, wait until late spring or early summer to see if they sprout new shoots.
Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety, and many survive winter even if part of them dies back. Several methods can be used to check whether or not a rose bush is still alive in spring. You can also use these methods if you wonder whether or not a rose was killed by a disease or other problem.
Wait for Leaves
The simplest way to determine whether a rose is alive or dead is to wait to see if it sprouts leaves. Watch the plant carefully to see if leaf buds form along the stems. If they do, then you'll know what parts of the plant are dead and what parts are alive. Once you can see swollen leaf buds, begin spring pruning to remove dead wood.
Check for Green
If you don't want to wait for leaves to sprout or you haven't noticed signs of the rose's life in spring, then check whether or not any parts of the rose canes are still alive. First, pull away any winter protection from the base of the plant. Starting midway down a cane, use a sterilized pruning knife to scrape away the outer layer of bark. If the cane is alive, you'll see a green layer under the bark. If the cane is dead, the inner layer will be brown. Keep using the knife periodically down the cane until you either find a green layer or reach the base of the plant. If you don't find green on any canes, then the rose bush is most likely dead.
Inspect Roots
Even if their upper canes are dead, some roses can come back from the roots. This fact depends on whether or not the roses are grafted. Some rose bush tops are grafted onto more vigorous root stocks to provide increased hardiness. Grafted roses include many hybrid roses, such as the cultivar 'Hotel California' (Rosa 'Hotel California,' USDA zones 5 through 9). Other roses are grown on their own roots. They include the Knock Out rose 'Radrazz' (Rosa 'Radrazz', USDA zones 4 through 9).
A grafted rose is considered dead if all the stems above the graft union are dead. The rose may still sprout from the roots, but it will not be the same kind of rose bush it was previously. Instead, it will be whatever rose species was used as its root stock, and it may not even bloom. Roses growing on their own roots, however, can still come back from the roots. Before removing those plants, wait until late spring or early summer to see if they sprout new shoots.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Tree roses are not trees but roses that have been grafted onto a trunk that has been grafted onto a rose rootstock. While they look exotic, tree roses have the same growing requirements as regular roses and are bothered by the same pests and diseases. Tree roses come in two shapes, a compact lollipop or a weeping form. The grafts of both forms need to be protected from swaying in strong winds and winter damage because of freezing temperatures. Tree roses create an interesting look in an otherwise blah area of your garden, and with care, can thrive for years.
Growing a tree rose
Step 1
Select a tree rose cultivar hardy in your zone. If you don't live in a hardiness area, tree roses may be grown in containers and overwintered indoors. Tree roses should be planted in spring after the danger of frost has passed.
Step 2
Choose a spot of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. The site should receive at least six hours of full sun a day. Eastern exposure is best as the morning sun evaporates dew from the leaves, but a southern or western exposure also will work. Avoid northern exposures.
Step 3
Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as your tree rose's root ball. Mix the soil removed from the hole with compost until you have a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Refill the hole with the compost-soil mix until it is just large enough to accommodate the root ball and places the graft between the rootstock and the trunk stock 2 to 3 inches above the soil.
Step 4
Place the tree rose in the hole and backfill with soil. Make sure the tree rose remains straight as you fill the hole.
Step 5
Insert a stake into the soil just outside the root ball. Attach the tree rose to the stake with at least two elasticized tree ties. Place the ties 2 to 4 inches above the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock and 1 to 2 inches below the graft between the trunk stock and the rose.
Step 6
Apply mulch 1 to 3 inches deep around your tree rose. Pull it back from the trunk to prevent damage. Make sure the mulch does not cover the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock.
Step 7
If you are growing your tree rose in a container, place rocks or pieces of broken clay pots in the bottom of the container. Fill the container, sized for your mature tree rose, with a general-use potting soil. Plant and stake the tree rose as you would in the garden.
Step 8
Deadhead your tree rose when blooms fade. In the spring, just after bud break, prune off dead and broken branches. Prune back foliage that has powdery mildew or black spot.
Step 9
Give your tree rose a deep watering three to four times a week. Water the soil around the tree rose. Do not get the foliage wet as this will promote powdery mildew and black spot.
Step 10
Fertilize your tree rose three times a year -- in early spring when flower buds are swelling, again just after your tree rose begins to flower and then in late summer after most of the blooms have faded. Use a liquid rose food; follow package directions for rate of application.
Step 11
When your tree rose loses its leaves in the fall, wrap the entire plant with burlap, leave the top open and secure with twine. Or you can just dig up your tree rose and store it in dampened peat moss in a warm garage or basement. If your tree rose is planted in a container, bring the container inside for the winter.
Growing a tree rose
Step 1
Select a tree rose cultivar hardy in your zone. If you don't live in a hardiness area, tree roses may be grown in containers and overwintered indoors. Tree roses should be planted in spring after the danger of frost has passed.
Step 2
Choose a spot of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. The site should receive at least six hours of full sun a day. Eastern exposure is best as the morning sun evaporates dew from the leaves, but a southern or western exposure also will work. Avoid northern exposures.
Step 3
Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as your tree rose's root ball. Mix the soil removed from the hole with compost until you have a 50/50 mix of soil and compost. Refill the hole with the compost-soil mix until it is just large enough to accommodate the root ball and places the graft between the rootstock and the trunk stock 2 to 3 inches above the soil.
Step 4
Place the tree rose in the hole and backfill with soil. Make sure the tree rose remains straight as you fill the hole.
Step 5
Insert a stake into the soil just outside the root ball. Attach the tree rose to the stake with at least two elasticized tree ties. Place the ties 2 to 4 inches above the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock and 1 to 2 inches below the graft between the trunk stock and the rose.
Step 6
Apply mulch 1 to 3 inches deep around your tree rose. Pull it back from the trunk to prevent damage. Make sure the mulch does not cover the graft between the root stock and the trunk stock.
Step 7
If you are growing your tree rose in a container, place rocks or pieces of broken clay pots in the bottom of the container. Fill the container, sized for your mature tree rose, with a general-use potting soil. Plant and stake the tree rose as you would in the garden.
Step 8
Deadhead your tree rose when blooms fade. In the spring, just after bud break, prune off dead and broken branches. Prune back foliage that has powdery mildew or black spot.
Step 9
Give your tree rose a deep watering three to four times a week. Water the soil around the tree rose. Do not get the foliage wet as this will promote powdery mildew and black spot.
Step 10
Fertilize your tree rose three times a year -- in early spring when flower buds are swelling, again just after your tree rose begins to flower and then in late summer after most of the blooms have faded. Use a liquid rose food; follow package directions for rate of application.
Step 11
When your tree rose loses its leaves in the fall, wrap the entire plant with burlap, leave the top open and secure with twine. Or you can just dig up your tree rose and store it in dampened peat moss in a warm garage or basement. If your tree rose is planted in a container, bring the container inside for the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
The original Knock Out rose (Rosa "Radrazz"), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, has exceptional disease resistance and requires little to no maintenance, including fertilizers. Joined by an expanded collection known as the Knock Out Family, the original Knock Out rose requires no fertilizer under normal conditions in healthy garden soil. With varieties hardy from USDA zones 4 through 11, Knock Out Family members share the same simple-care, low-nutrient requirements of the original Knock Out rose. If you choose to fertilize your Knock Out roses, timely applications and a light hand are essential.
First-Year Knock Outs
Although Knock Out roses don't require fertilizer at any stage of life, leaving them fertilizer-free is especially important their first year. Fertilizing newly planted roses can damage their tender young roots and delay the plants' establishment. Instead of fertilizers, focus on a proper planting site that suits Knock Out roses' other needs. Give your roses a location with well-drained soil and at least six to eight hours of full sunlight daily. More hours of direct sunlight translate to better health and more prolific blooms. Knock Outs do best in soil with a near-neutral pH level -- the point at which soil nutrients stay most available to plants.
Established Plants
If you chose to fertilize Knock Outs after they become established, wait until they have at least one full bloom cycle. Water before and after you fertilize them. Plants need water to absorb nutrients, and fertilizing dry soil can burn roots. Wait until the roses have 4 to 6 inches of new growth before you feed them in spring. Then wait until after the first flush of Knock Out blooms to feed them again. Use slow-release, water-soluble, granular fertilizer, with all three of its numbers -- for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium -- in the single digits, and follow its label instructions. One rose food manufacturer recommends feeding Knock Outs 3/4 cup of 3-4-3 fertilizer per bush every six weeks during the active growth period. Work the granules into the soil around the roses, several inches from their stems or canes.
Southern Considerations
In most areas, Knock Out roses grow 3 to 4 feet tall, but long, southern growing seasons produce Knock Outs two or more times that height. Their blooms continue almost year-round in some regions. These hard-working Knock Outs may benefit from extra nutrients. Louisiana State University Agricultural Center recommends twice yearly Knock Out pruning, with each session followed by fertilizer. Frequent watering of container-grown Knock Outs leaches nutrients from their soil, leaving the roses short on natural nutrition. In both cases, follow through with 3-4-3 fertilizer or a similar product at the same rate as for established roses. Sterilize your pruning blades with household disinfectant before and after pruning each rose bush.
Northern Concerns
In northern climates, unfertilized Knock Out roses naturally wind down and harden off as winter approaches. They drop their leaves and redirect their energy to below ground. If you fertilize Knock Out roses in northern climates, stop providing all fertilizers at least six to eight weeks before your location's average first fall frost date. Late-season fertilizer stimulates vulnerable new growth and inhibits the rose bushes from entering dormancy, lessening their cold hardiness and putting the entire plants at risk of cold damage or death. High-nitrogen fertilizers are particularly harmful. In early spring, cut your Knock Outs back to 12 inches tall because they'll triple in height, but forgo the follow-up fertilizer.
First-Year Knock Outs
Although Knock Out roses don't require fertilizer at any stage of life, leaving them fertilizer-free is especially important their first year. Fertilizing newly planted roses can damage their tender young roots and delay the plants' establishment. Instead of fertilizers, focus on a proper planting site that suits Knock Out roses' other needs. Give your roses a location with well-drained soil and at least six to eight hours of full sunlight daily. More hours of direct sunlight translate to better health and more prolific blooms. Knock Outs do best in soil with a near-neutral pH level -- the point at which soil nutrients stay most available to plants.
Established Plants
If you chose to fertilize Knock Outs after they become established, wait until they have at least one full bloom cycle. Water before and after you fertilize them. Plants need water to absorb nutrients, and fertilizing dry soil can burn roots. Wait until the roses have 4 to 6 inches of new growth before you feed them in spring. Then wait until after the first flush of Knock Out blooms to feed them again. Use slow-release, water-soluble, granular fertilizer, with all three of its numbers -- for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium -- in the single digits, and follow its label instructions. One rose food manufacturer recommends feeding Knock Outs 3/4 cup of 3-4-3 fertilizer per bush every six weeks during the active growth period. Work the granules into the soil around the roses, several inches from their stems or canes.
Southern Considerations
In most areas, Knock Out roses grow 3 to 4 feet tall, but long, southern growing seasons produce Knock Outs two or more times that height. Their blooms continue almost year-round in some regions. These hard-working Knock Outs may benefit from extra nutrients. Louisiana State University Agricultural Center recommends twice yearly Knock Out pruning, with each session followed by fertilizer. Frequent watering of container-grown Knock Outs leaches nutrients from their soil, leaving the roses short on natural nutrition. In both cases, follow through with 3-4-3 fertilizer or a similar product at the same rate as for established roses. Sterilize your pruning blades with household disinfectant before and after pruning each rose bush.
Northern Concerns
In northern climates, unfertilized Knock Out roses naturally wind down and harden off as winter approaches. They drop their leaves and redirect their energy to below ground. If you fertilize Knock Out roses in northern climates, stop providing all fertilizers at least six to eight weeks before your location's average first fall frost date. Late-season fertilizer stimulates vulnerable new growth and inhibits the rose bushes from entering dormancy, lessening their cold hardiness and putting the entire plants at risk of cold damage or death. High-nitrogen fertilizers are particularly harmful. In early spring, cut your Knock Outs back to 12 inches tall because they'll triple in height, but forgo the follow-up fertilizer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Knockout roses are flowering bushes that produce large, bright flowers. The fragrance produced is not as strong as other varieties of roses, and the flowers do not typically last as long after being cut. However, the knockout rose is exceptionally easy to care for, and is resistant to drought and many diseases. The flowers can be pink, red or yellow, and will bloom throughout most of the year in warm climates.
Planting
Plant knockout roses in a location that receives between six and eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Ensure the soil is fertile and has high drainage; additional organic compost can be added if necessary. Plant the roses in late April, after the last frost of the season and when the soil has warmed to a workable temperature.
Dig a hole 2 feet wide by 2 feet deep to plant each knockout rose. Transplant the bush directly into the hole and cover with soil. Water thoroughly after planting to compact the soil and collapse any air pockets.
Watering
Water the knockout roses two to three times a week until they become established. This will promote root growth, and help the plant create more food for developing leaves and blossoms. Reduce watering to about 1 inch per week after the first three months. Never allow the leaves to get wet, as this can cause disease. Water the roses as early in the day as possible, so any leaves that do become moist will dry out before the temperature drops in the evening.
Mulching and Fertilizing
Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch directly around the base of the knockout roses. This will help conserve water, maintain a constant soil temperature, add additional nutrients to the soil and discourage the growth of weeds. Replace the mulch after two or three months, or when it is visibly deteriorating.
Feed the knockout roses with a balanced fertilizer with 10-10-10 NPK or similar. Spread between ½ and 1 cup of fertilizer directly around the base of the plants in late April. Continue feeding every four to five weeks until late August. Prevent root burn by watering the roses before and after applying the fertilizer.
Pruning
Prune knockout roses once yearly in late March. Remove any stems that are dead, dying or diseased. Cut back all other stems to a length between one and two feet. This will provide more air circulation and light to penetrate to the inner portions of the bush, reducing the chance of fungi or diseases.
Planting
Plant knockout roses in a location that receives between six and eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Ensure the soil is fertile and has high drainage; additional organic compost can be added if necessary. Plant the roses in late April, after the last frost of the season and when the soil has warmed to a workable temperature.
Dig a hole 2 feet wide by 2 feet deep to plant each knockout rose. Transplant the bush directly into the hole and cover with soil. Water thoroughly after planting to compact the soil and collapse any air pockets.
Watering
Water the knockout roses two to three times a week until they become established. This will promote root growth, and help the plant create more food for developing leaves and blossoms. Reduce watering to about 1 inch per week after the first three months. Never allow the leaves to get wet, as this can cause disease. Water the roses as early in the day as possible, so any leaves that do become moist will dry out before the temperature drops in the evening.
Mulching and Fertilizing
Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch directly around the base of the knockout roses. This will help conserve water, maintain a constant soil temperature, add additional nutrients to the soil and discourage the growth of weeds. Replace the mulch after two or three months, or when it is visibly deteriorating.
Feed the knockout roses with a balanced fertilizer with 10-10-10 NPK or similar. Spread between ½ and 1 cup of fertilizer directly around the base of the plants in late April. Continue feeding every four to five weeks until late August. Prevent root burn by watering the roses before and after applying the fertilizer.
Pruning
Prune knockout roses once yearly in late March. Remove any stems that are dead, dying or diseased. Cut back all other stems to a length between one and two feet. This will provide more air circulation and light to penetrate to the inner portions of the bush, reducing the chance of fungi or diseases.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If your breakfast includes bananas and a cup of joe, you'll have enough nutritional scraps to feed your roses (Rosa spp.) too. Banana fruits and peels, composted first or not, add phosphorus and potassium to rose soil, and coffee grounds provide pinches of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium.
Rosy Dreams
Vibrant, healthy rose bushes fight off diseases and produce the best blossoms, so a gardener does what she can to make her roses strong. You give your roses some of the ingredients for healthy living, like sunlight and air, by selecting a good planting site. Mother nature provides both water and nutrients, but just as you add irrigation when needed, you can supplement nutrients by adding fertilizer to the soil. Consider both coffee grounds and banana peels in that category.
Feeding Soil
When you add compost or fertilizer, you feed the soil, not the rose plant growing in it. Plants produce their own food, taking up nutrients in the soil and converting them into sugars by the magic of photosynthesis. When you add material to the soil, you replace the nutrients your roses have used, providing them with a steady supply. This should be done every month or so throughout the growing season. The three primary nutrients required for rose growth and health are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Between coffee grounds and bananas, you'll add all three to the soil.
Coffee Grounds for Nitrogen
Coffee grounds are 2 percent nitrogen, so from the get-go they increase the nitrogen level of the soil. According to the Oregon State University Extension service, they are an excellent source of nitrogen for composting. Keep the grounds to 25 percent or less of the pile. Rose gardeners can also spread several inches of coffee grounds directly on the rose bed soil. Either work the grounds into the soil or else cover a thin layer with several inches of dried leaves to prevent them from drying out.
Banana Peels
Banana fruit and peels are rich in phosphorus and the peels in potassium as well. Roses need potassium for vigor and phosphorus to bloom, so bananas and roses are a match made in plant heaven. Some gardeners prefer to chop up bananas and compost them in the bin but other simply bury fruit or peels at the base of the plants. If you add uncomposted organic material directly to the soil, it's a good idea to toss in a few tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer at the same time, since it takes nitrogen to break down the material.
Rosy Dreams
Vibrant, healthy rose bushes fight off diseases and produce the best blossoms, so a gardener does what she can to make her roses strong. You give your roses some of the ingredients for healthy living, like sunlight and air, by selecting a good planting site. Mother nature provides both water and nutrients, but just as you add irrigation when needed, you can supplement nutrients by adding fertilizer to the soil. Consider both coffee grounds and banana peels in that category.
Feeding Soil
When you add compost or fertilizer, you feed the soil, not the rose plant growing in it. Plants produce their own food, taking up nutrients in the soil and converting them into sugars by the magic of photosynthesis. When you add material to the soil, you replace the nutrients your roses have used, providing them with a steady supply. This should be done every month or so throughout the growing season. The three primary nutrients required for rose growth and health are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Between coffee grounds and bananas, you'll add all three to the soil.
Coffee Grounds for Nitrogen
Coffee grounds are 2 percent nitrogen, so from the get-go they increase the nitrogen level of the soil. According to the Oregon State University Extension service, they are an excellent source of nitrogen for composting. Keep the grounds to 25 percent or less of the pile. Rose gardeners can also spread several inches of coffee grounds directly on the rose bed soil. Either work the grounds into the soil or else cover a thin layer with several inches of dried leaves to prevent them from drying out.
Banana Peels
Banana fruit and peels are rich in phosphorus and the peels in potassium as well. Roses need potassium for vigor and phosphorus to bloom, so bananas and roses are a match made in plant heaven. Some gardeners prefer to chop up bananas and compost them in the bin but other simply bury fruit or peels at the base of the plants. If you add uncomposted organic material directly to the soil, it's a good idea to toss in a few tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer at the same time, since it takes nitrogen to break down the material.
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