文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose trees are hybrid roses that have been grown to look like a tree. They range in size from 3 feet to 6 feet tall and come in many colors; there are even weeping rose trees. Rose trees require most of the same care of a regular rose bush. Due to their unique shape, however, they also have some unique requirements of their own.
Step 1
Prepare the site for the rose tree. They need full sunlight and rich soil that retains moisture. Dig up the site, remove weeds, rocks and other garden debris and add generous amounts of compost or decayed manure several weeks before planting.
Step 2
Plant the rose tree. Dig a hole that is 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide; put the garden soil in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp. Mix the garden soil with equal amounts of mulch, peat moss and potting soil. Fill the hole half full with this soil mixture. Fill the hole with water and stir with the shovel, creating a slurry with the soil mixture. Place the rose in the hole and have someone hold it in place while add soil mixture until the hole is completely filled and the slurry is firm. Rose trees are susceptible to wind damage and should be staked using tree stakes.
Step 3
Water a newly planted rose tree every day until it is established and new growth appears. Water regularly and deeply; roses need about 1 to 2 inches of water each week. This causes the roots to grow deep and protects the plant during periods of drought.
Step 4
Feed the rose tree once new growth has appeared. You can use a complete plant food. Doug Green at Simple Gift Farms recommends using compost to feed the roses; spread two to three shovel-full of compost around the rose tree's base in early spring and in mid summer.
Step 5
Watch for rose diseases, such as black spot or mildew and treat promptly. Remove the infected leaves and treat with a fungicide. Roses attract aphids, spider mites and Japanese beetles; treat with a pesticide to control these problems. Bayer Advanced All-in-One Rose and Flower Care is a systemic pesticide, fungicide and plant food that is used once a month.
Step 6
Deadhead spent flowers on the rose tree. Remove the faded flower by locating the next leaf set below the bud; you will cut approximately ¼ inch above this leaf set. Hold the pruning shears at a 45 degree angle, so that the angle faces away from the center of the bush. Clean up all fallen rose leaves and petals beneath the rose tree and throw them away; do not add to the compost as it will encourage disease and pests.
Step 7
Prepare the rose tree in late fall for the coming winter. You can build a cage of mesh wire around the 'trunk' of the rose tree and fill the cage with mulch. Doug Green at Simple Gifts Farm offers an alternate method. Wrap a sheet of flexible Styrofoam around the trunk of the rose and cover that with burlap. Secure the burlap with duct tape and mound mulch around the base of the rose tree.
Step 8
Prune the rose tree in the spring. Remove any dead part of the canes; healthy canes have a green ting to the bark and white pith inside. Cut off the dead part until you see the healthy pith; if there is no healthy pith, remove the entire cane. Remove about 1/3 of the length of the healthy canes, shaping the rose tree for balance, both for appearance and to prevent uneven weight on one side.
Step 1
Prepare the site for the rose tree. They need full sunlight and rich soil that retains moisture. Dig up the site, remove weeds, rocks and other garden debris and add generous amounts of compost or decayed manure several weeks before planting.
Step 2
Plant the rose tree. Dig a hole that is 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide; put the garden soil in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp. Mix the garden soil with equal amounts of mulch, peat moss and potting soil. Fill the hole half full with this soil mixture. Fill the hole with water and stir with the shovel, creating a slurry with the soil mixture. Place the rose in the hole and have someone hold it in place while add soil mixture until the hole is completely filled and the slurry is firm. Rose trees are susceptible to wind damage and should be staked using tree stakes.
Step 3
Water a newly planted rose tree every day until it is established and new growth appears. Water regularly and deeply; roses need about 1 to 2 inches of water each week. This causes the roots to grow deep and protects the plant during periods of drought.
Step 4
Feed the rose tree once new growth has appeared. You can use a complete plant food. Doug Green at Simple Gift Farms recommends using compost to feed the roses; spread two to three shovel-full of compost around the rose tree's base in early spring and in mid summer.
Step 5
Watch for rose diseases, such as black spot or mildew and treat promptly. Remove the infected leaves and treat with a fungicide. Roses attract aphids, spider mites and Japanese beetles; treat with a pesticide to control these problems. Bayer Advanced All-in-One Rose and Flower Care is a systemic pesticide, fungicide and plant food that is used once a month.
Step 6
Deadhead spent flowers on the rose tree. Remove the faded flower by locating the next leaf set below the bud; you will cut approximately ¼ inch above this leaf set. Hold the pruning shears at a 45 degree angle, so that the angle faces away from the center of the bush. Clean up all fallen rose leaves and petals beneath the rose tree and throw them away; do not add to the compost as it will encourage disease and pests.
Step 7
Prepare the rose tree in late fall for the coming winter. You can build a cage of mesh wire around the 'trunk' of the rose tree and fill the cage with mulch. Doug Green at Simple Gifts Farm offers an alternate method. Wrap a sheet of flexible Styrofoam around the trunk of the rose and cover that with burlap. Secure the burlap with duct tape and mound mulch around the base of the rose tree.
Step 8
Prune the rose tree in the spring. Remove any dead part of the canes; healthy canes have a green ting to the bark and white pith inside. Cut off the dead part until you see the healthy pith; if there is no healthy pith, remove the entire cane. Remove about 1/3 of the length of the healthy canes, shaping the rose tree for balance, both for appearance and to prevent uneven weight on one side.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose trees are hybrid roses that have been grafted on rootstock to look like a tree. Rose trees need the same care-planting, watering, feeding, protection from pests and diseases-as regular rose bushes. Like regular rose bushes, they also need to be pruned in early spring. Due to their unusual shape, rose trees need to be pruned differently from their bush counterparts.
Step 1
Use clean and sharp tools when pruning a rose tree. Using a dull shear to prune a rose will tear the cane instead of cut it, which damages the cane. Pruning tools can be cleaned using an old toothbrush and water and sterilized in a solution of 1 part household bleach and 10 parts water; allow the sterilized tools to air dry. Clean and sterilize the pruning tools after each use.The Weekend Gardener has extra tips for sharpening and cleaning pruning tools.
Step 2
Hold the pruning tools properly for pruning roses and rose trees. Hold the shears at a 45 degree angle; direct the angle so that it faces away from the center of the rose. This will cause new growth to grow away from the center of the rose, allowing air flow, which reduces the chance for diseases.
Step 3
Remove any canes that look dead. A healthy cane will have a greenish cast to the bark and white pith on the inside. Cut away the dead part of the cane until you come to healthy white pith.
Step 4
Remove any canes that are not a pencil width thick. These canes are not strong enough to support the blooms when they open. Remove woody old canes; saw them off as close to the rose tree trunk as possible. Remove any 'sucker' canes, that grow from the roots below the bud union.
Step 5
Shape the healthy canes on the rose tree. Prune 1/3 of the length from the canes. Work towards a balance when pruning a rose tree; not only does it look prettier, uneven pruning will cause an uneven weight distribution on the rose.
Step 6
Seal the pruned canes by smearing household glue on the cuts. This acts as a bandage on the cane and will keep insects and disease from entering through the cut.
Step 7
Clean up all rose cuttings, fallen leaves and petals from around the base of the rose tree. Throw these in the trash. Do not add them to the compost as they will encourage pests and diseases.
Step 1
Use clean and sharp tools when pruning a rose tree. Using a dull shear to prune a rose will tear the cane instead of cut it, which damages the cane. Pruning tools can be cleaned using an old toothbrush and water and sterilized in a solution of 1 part household bleach and 10 parts water; allow the sterilized tools to air dry. Clean and sterilize the pruning tools after each use.The Weekend Gardener has extra tips for sharpening and cleaning pruning tools.
Step 2
Hold the pruning tools properly for pruning roses and rose trees. Hold the shears at a 45 degree angle; direct the angle so that it faces away from the center of the rose. This will cause new growth to grow away from the center of the rose, allowing air flow, which reduces the chance for diseases.
Step 3
Remove any canes that look dead. A healthy cane will have a greenish cast to the bark and white pith on the inside. Cut away the dead part of the cane until you come to healthy white pith.
Step 4
Remove any canes that are not a pencil width thick. These canes are not strong enough to support the blooms when they open. Remove woody old canes; saw them off as close to the rose tree trunk as possible. Remove any 'sucker' canes, that grow from the roots below the bud union.
Step 5
Shape the healthy canes on the rose tree. Prune 1/3 of the length from the canes. Work towards a balance when pruning a rose tree; not only does it look prettier, uneven pruning will cause an uneven weight distribution on the rose.
Step 6
Seal the pruned canes by smearing household glue on the cuts. This acts as a bandage on the cane and will keep insects and disease from entering through the cut.
Step 7
Clean up all rose cuttings, fallen leaves and petals from around the base of the rose tree. Throw these in the trash. Do not add them to the compost as they will encourage pests and diseases.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Knockout roses are an ever-blooming rose developed by Texas A&M University to withstand extreme Texas growing conditions such as drought, freezing temperatures and high humidity. Their popularity has spread as knockout roses are used in commercial and private landscapes with low maintenance requirements. Knockout roses generally are care free, but occasionally, especially between blooming periods, old flowers, battered foliage and a few dead limbs can make the knockout rose bush look like it's seen better days.
How to Revive Knockout Roses
Step 1
Remove weeds from around your knockout rose bush as far as 36 inches from the plant so that you can identify any weak or diseased limbs and see how to shape the plant. Also, rake old leaves and other garden debris from around the base of the plant.
Step 2
Prune out dead wood by cutting dead branches back to the point where they meet a main stem or point of origin. If the dead limb goes all the way to the ground without meeting a main stem, prune it at ground level.
Step 3
Shape the plant by removing spent flowers and unruly growth by cutting limbs at a 45-degree angle and 1/4 of an inch above an outward facing bud to train new growth outward. You can remove as much as half of a knockout rose bush when pruning, but severe pruning will delay the next blooming period for several weeks. This is because the plant blooms on new wood and requires a longer recovery period.
Step 4
Gently work two shovels of well-composted manure or compost into the top inch of the soil around the roots, and apply a rose fertilizer according to the instructions on the package. Spread fertilizer just outside the root zone, not on top of the root zone, as it will burn new roots that are close to the surface. Wate the compost and fertilizer well.
Step 5
Apply a two-inch deep layer of mulch around the base of the plant and six inches past the root zone. Leave a one-inch space between the mulch and the trunk of the knockout rose to prevent mildew from spreading to the bush as the compost decays. Keep it evenly moist until new growth appears.
How to Revive Knockout Roses
Step 1
Remove weeds from around your knockout rose bush as far as 36 inches from the plant so that you can identify any weak or diseased limbs and see how to shape the plant. Also, rake old leaves and other garden debris from around the base of the plant.
Step 2
Prune out dead wood by cutting dead branches back to the point where they meet a main stem or point of origin. If the dead limb goes all the way to the ground without meeting a main stem, prune it at ground level.
Step 3
Shape the plant by removing spent flowers and unruly growth by cutting limbs at a 45-degree angle and 1/4 of an inch above an outward facing bud to train new growth outward. You can remove as much as half of a knockout rose bush when pruning, but severe pruning will delay the next blooming period for several weeks. This is because the plant blooms on new wood and requires a longer recovery period.
Step 4
Gently work two shovels of well-composted manure or compost into the top inch of the soil around the roots, and apply a rose fertilizer according to the instructions on the package. Spread fertilizer just outside the root zone, not on top of the root zone, as it will burn new roots that are close to the surface. Wate the compost and fertilizer well.
Step 5
Apply a two-inch deep layer of mulch around the base of the plant and six inches past the root zone. Leave a one-inch space between the mulch and the trunk of the knockout rose to prevent mildew from spreading to the bush as the compost decays. Keep it evenly moist until new growth appears.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Best grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 to 9, the confederate rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) features large, showy flowers that start off white but quickly change to deep pink or reddish pink, with a blueish cast near the end of their bloom cycle. Especially enchanting is the fact that these cycles happen on different parts of the large bush simultaneously, so that the plant appears to feature multi-colored blooms.
Step 1
Site the planting area where the confederate rose will receive full sun, or dappled shade in the hotter part of its range. The confederate rose is best grown as a specimen tree or large shrub, but if planted in a border should have at least 5 feet on either side.
Step 2
Prepare the planting area. Although confederate roses adapt well to most soil conditions, working a 2-inch layer of compost into the soil will help improve the nutrition and texture of the soil. Work the compost about 12 inches deep throughout an area that's about 100 feet square. This will improve the nutrient level and soil texture throughout the eventual growing zone.
Step 3
Dig a hole that is about the depth of the shrub's root ball, and at least twice as wide. Set the confederate rose in the hole, and backfill the hole with soil. Press down on the soil to remove airpockets, and water the area deeply.
Step 4
Mulch the area around the confederate rose with a 2-inch layer of wood chips or other organic material. Keep the mulch several inches away from the base of the shrub itself.
Step 5
Check the soil around the confederate shrub daily in the first few month after planting. To get them off to the best start, young shrubs need consistently moist soil during their first growing season.
Step 6
Water about every two weeks as the confederate rose matures. Shrubs should be watered to a depth of about 2 feet. If you are not able to water as often or as deeply as recommended for shrubs like the confederate rose that prefer moderate watering, take heart. Confederate roses are somewhat drought tolerant, although they may experience some wilting in scorching heat and no water.
Step 7
Prune the confederate rose, if size is a concern. Many gardeners only lightly shear the shrubs for a more even silhouette. It is possible, however, to cut a to a confederate rose to a height of 12 inches during dormancy, which will allow it to grow to a moderate and bushier height the following season. Sterilize the shears after pruning by misting them with, or dipping them into, a cleaning solution such as bleach or rubbing alcohol. Wipe them dry after their treatment.
Step 8
Spread a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost around the shrub each spring, starting from a few inches away for the base to under the plant's outermost branches. This action will continue to improve the growing environment as the confederate rose matures.
Step 1
Site the planting area where the confederate rose will receive full sun, or dappled shade in the hotter part of its range. The confederate rose is best grown as a specimen tree or large shrub, but if planted in a border should have at least 5 feet on either side.
Step 2
Prepare the planting area. Although confederate roses adapt well to most soil conditions, working a 2-inch layer of compost into the soil will help improve the nutrition and texture of the soil. Work the compost about 12 inches deep throughout an area that's about 100 feet square. This will improve the nutrient level and soil texture throughout the eventual growing zone.
Step 3
Dig a hole that is about the depth of the shrub's root ball, and at least twice as wide. Set the confederate rose in the hole, and backfill the hole with soil. Press down on the soil to remove airpockets, and water the area deeply.
Step 4
Mulch the area around the confederate rose with a 2-inch layer of wood chips or other organic material. Keep the mulch several inches away from the base of the shrub itself.
Step 5
Check the soil around the confederate shrub daily in the first few month after planting. To get them off to the best start, young shrubs need consistently moist soil during their first growing season.
Step 6
Water about every two weeks as the confederate rose matures. Shrubs should be watered to a depth of about 2 feet. If you are not able to water as often or as deeply as recommended for shrubs like the confederate rose that prefer moderate watering, take heart. Confederate roses are somewhat drought tolerant, although they may experience some wilting in scorching heat and no water.
Step 7
Prune the confederate rose, if size is a concern. Many gardeners only lightly shear the shrubs for a more even silhouette. It is possible, however, to cut a to a confederate rose to a height of 12 inches during dormancy, which will allow it to grow to a moderate and bushier height the following season. Sterilize the shears after pruning by misting them with, or dipping them into, a cleaning solution such as bleach or rubbing alcohol. Wipe them dry after their treatment.
Step 8
Spread a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost around the shrub each spring, starting from a few inches away for the base to under the plant's outermost branches. This action will continue to improve the growing environment as the confederate rose matures.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
What is bog rosemary? It is a marsh plant very different from the rosemary you cook with in the kitchen. Bog rosemary plants (Andromeda polifolia) thrive in boggy habitats like wet swamps and dry bog moss hummocks. Read on for more information on bog rosemary plants, including tips for bog rosemary growing.
What is Bog Rosemary?
Bog rosemary plants, also known as marsh Andromeda because of the species name, are creeping evergreens. Low to the ground (no taller than a couple of feet), they thrive in soggy areas in the landscape.
This native is found growing wild in the northeast United States. It also is native to parts of Europe and Asia. The new growth of these marsh Andromeda shrubs is usually lime green, although sometimes you find reddish hues. The growth is covered with a waxy film, and matures into a deep green or blue green with pale downy undersides. The leaves of bog rosemary plants are shiny and leathery. The foliage contains andromedotoxin, a powerful poison, so bog rosemary plants are rarely nibbled on by animals. Bog rosemary blossoms are unusual flowers. You’ll see a half-dozen tiny urn-shaped flowers growing together in a cluster at each stem tip. The flowers appear in May, each about ¼ inch long and pale pink. The fruits of marsh Andromeda are small bluish dried capsules that turn brown in October. Neither the flowers nor the seeds are particularly showy.
Bog Rosemary Growing
If you have a perpetually wet corner of the garden, bog rosemary growing might be just the thing. True to its common names, marsh Andromdea loves and thrives in marshy areas. Don’t worry about spending a lot of time on bog rosemary care either. If you place this shrub in an appropriate site, bog rosemary care takes very little effort.
When you have bog rosemary growing in a boggy spot in your backyard, you’ll find that it spreads quickly and requires little, if any, assistance. The plant tolerates compacted soil, wind and ice, preferring a location in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 6. Another reason you won’t have to spend too much time on bog rosemary care: the plant has few disease or insect troubles. You don’t need to fertilize or prune it.
What is Bog Rosemary?
Bog rosemary plants, also known as marsh Andromeda because of the species name, are creeping evergreens. Low to the ground (no taller than a couple of feet), they thrive in soggy areas in the landscape.
This native is found growing wild in the northeast United States. It also is native to parts of Europe and Asia. The new growth of these marsh Andromeda shrubs is usually lime green, although sometimes you find reddish hues. The growth is covered with a waxy film, and matures into a deep green or blue green with pale downy undersides. The leaves of bog rosemary plants are shiny and leathery. The foliage contains andromedotoxin, a powerful poison, so bog rosemary plants are rarely nibbled on by animals. Bog rosemary blossoms are unusual flowers. You’ll see a half-dozen tiny urn-shaped flowers growing together in a cluster at each stem tip. The flowers appear in May, each about ¼ inch long and pale pink. The fruits of marsh Andromeda are small bluish dried capsules that turn brown in October. Neither the flowers nor the seeds are particularly showy.
Bog Rosemary Growing
If you have a perpetually wet corner of the garden, bog rosemary growing might be just the thing. True to its common names, marsh Andromdea loves and thrives in marshy areas. Don’t worry about spending a lot of time on bog rosemary care either. If you place this shrub in an appropriate site, bog rosemary care takes very little effort.
When you have bog rosemary growing in a boggy spot in your backyard, you’ll find that it spreads quickly and requires little, if any, assistance. The plant tolerates compacted soil, wind and ice, preferring a location in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 6. Another reason you won’t have to spend too much time on bog rosemary care: the plant has few disease or insect troubles. You don’t need to fertilize or prune it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Swamp mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos), also known as rose mallow hibiscus or swamp hibiscus, is a shrubby, moisture loving plant in the hibiscus family that provides big, showy flowers from mid-summer to autumn. The plant performs well along pond edges or other damp areas. This stunning, low-maintenance plant is available in a range of colors, including pink, peach, white, red, lavender and bi-color varieties.
How to Grow Rose Mallow
The easiest way to grow rose mallow is to purchase a plant at a garden center or nursery. However, growing rose mallow by seed isn’t difficult. Start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost in your area, or plant seeds directly in the garden after the last killing frost in spring.
Rose mallow benefits from rich soil amended with at least 2 or 3 inches of compost, manure or other organic material. Locate the plant in full sunlight. Although rose mallow tolerates partial shade, too much shade may result in leggy plants that are more susceptible to insect infestations. Allow at least 36 inches of growing space between each plant. Crowding the plant inhibits air circulation which may result in leaf spots, rust or other diseases.
Swamp Hibiscus Care
Swamp hibiscus plants are water-loving plants that will stop blooming in dry soil. However, the plant, which dies and enters a dormant period in winter, shouldn’t be watered until it displays new growth in spring. Once the plant is actively growing, it needs a deep watering two or three times per week during warm weather. Water is especially important during the first growing season, but the plant should always be watered immediately if it shows signs of wilt.
Feed rose mallow every six to eight weeks during the growing season, using a balanced, water-soluble plant fertilizer. Alternatively, use a slow-release fertilizer after the plant breaks dormancy in spring. Spread 2 or 3 inches of mulch around the plant to keep the roots moist and cool, and to keep weeds in check. Spray swamp mallow with insecticidal soap spray if the plant is damaged by pests such as aphids, whiteflies or scale.
How to Grow Rose Mallow
The easiest way to grow rose mallow is to purchase a plant at a garden center or nursery. However, growing rose mallow by seed isn’t difficult. Start seeds indoors eight to 10 weeks before the last frost in your area, or plant seeds directly in the garden after the last killing frost in spring.
Rose mallow benefits from rich soil amended with at least 2 or 3 inches of compost, manure or other organic material. Locate the plant in full sunlight. Although rose mallow tolerates partial shade, too much shade may result in leggy plants that are more susceptible to insect infestations. Allow at least 36 inches of growing space between each plant. Crowding the plant inhibits air circulation which may result in leaf spots, rust or other diseases.
Swamp Hibiscus Care
Swamp hibiscus plants are water-loving plants that will stop blooming in dry soil. However, the plant, which dies and enters a dormant period in winter, shouldn’t be watered until it displays new growth in spring. Once the plant is actively growing, it needs a deep watering two or three times per week during warm weather. Water is especially important during the first growing season, but the plant should always be watered immediately if it shows signs of wilt.
Feed rose mallow every six to eight weeks during the growing season, using a balanced, water-soluble plant fertilizer. Alternatively, use a slow-release fertilizer after the plant breaks dormancy in spring. Spread 2 or 3 inches of mulch around the plant to keep the roots moist and cool, and to keep weeds in check. Spray swamp mallow with insecticidal soap spray if the plant is damaged by pests such as aphids, whiteflies or scale.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Scented geraniums (Pelargoniums) are tender perennials, available in delightful scents like spice, mint, various fruits and rose. If you love scented geraniums, you can easily multiply your plants by rooting pelargonium cuttings. Read on to learn more.
Propagating Scented Geraniums
Propagating scented geraniums is surprisingly easy and requires very little expense and no fancy equipment. In fact, some gardeners have good luck by simply breaking off a stem and planting it in the same pot with the parent plant. However, if you want to be more deliberate with a higher chance of success, here are simple steps for growing scented geraniums from cuttings.
How to Root Scented Geranium Cuttings
Although these adaptable plants may take root any time after spring, late summer is the optimum time for rooting pelargonium cuttings. Cut a stem from a healthy growing plant using a sharp, sterile knife. Make the cut just below a leaf joint. Remove all the leaves except the top two. Also, remove any buds and flowers from the stem. Get a small pot with a drainage hole. A 3-inch pot is fine for a single cutting, while a 4- to 6-inch pot will hold four or five cuttings. Fill the pot with regular potting mix or seed starter. Avoid mixes with added fertilizer.
Water the potting mix well, then set it aside to drain until the mix is evenly moist but not soggy or dripping wet. Plant the cutting in the damp potting mix. Be sure the top leaves are above the soil. Don’t bother with rooting hormone; it isn’t necessary. Press the potting soil lightly to remove air bubbles, but don’t compress it. Cover the pot lightly with plastic, then poke several holes in the plastic to provide air circulation. (Plastic is optional, but the greenhouse environment may speed rooting). Insert a couple of drinking straws or chopsticks to hold the plastic above the leaves. Set the pot in indirect light. Normal room temperatures are fine. You can place the pot outdoors if temperatures aren’t too hot and sunlight isn’t intense. Water the potting mix lightly after about a week, or when it feels dry. Watering from the bottom is preferable. Remove the plastic for a few hours if you notice water drops. Too much moisture will rot the cuttings. Remove the plastic permanently and transplant the cuttings into individual pots when new growth appears, which indicates the cuttings have rooted. This process may take several days or a few weeks.
Rooting Scented Geraniums in Water
Most gardeners find that rooting Pelargonium cuttings in potting mix is more dependable, but you may have good luck rooting scented geraniums in water. Here’s how: Fill a jar about one-third with room temperature water. Place a scented geranium cutting in the water. Ensure the bottom one-third of the cutting is submerged. Place the jar in a warm spot, such as a sunny window. Avoid hot, direct sunlight, which will cook the cutting. Watch for roots to develop in about a month. Then, plant the rooted cutting in a pot filled with regular potting mix.
Propagating Scented Geraniums
Propagating scented geraniums is surprisingly easy and requires very little expense and no fancy equipment. In fact, some gardeners have good luck by simply breaking off a stem and planting it in the same pot with the parent plant. However, if you want to be more deliberate with a higher chance of success, here are simple steps for growing scented geraniums from cuttings.
How to Root Scented Geranium Cuttings
Although these adaptable plants may take root any time after spring, late summer is the optimum time for rooting pelargonium cuttings. Cut a stem from a healthy growing plant using a sharp, sterile knife. Make the cut just below a leaf joint. Remove all the leaves except the top two. Also, remove any buds and flowers from the stem. Get a small pot with a drainage hole. A 3-inch pot is fine for a single cutting, while a 4- to 6-inch pot will hold four or five cuttings. Fill the pot with regular potting mix or seed starter. Avoid mixes with added fertilizer.
Water the potting mix well, then set it aside to drain until the mix is evenly moist but not soggy or dripping wet. Plant the cutting in the damp potting mix. Be sure the top leaves are above the soil. Don’t bother with rooting hormone; it isn’t necessary. Press the potting soil lightly to remove air bubbles, but don’t compress it. Cover the pot lightly with plastic, then poke several holes in the plastic to provide air circulation. (Plastic is optional, but the greenhouse environment may speed rooting). Insert a couple of drinking straws or chopsticks to hold the plastic above the leaves. Set the pot in indirect light. Normal room temperatures are fine. You can place the pot outdoors if temperatures aren’t too hot and sunlight isn’t intense. Water the potting mix lightly after about a week, or when it feels dry. Watering from the bottom is preferable. Remove the plastic for a few hours if you notice water drops. Too much moisture will rot the cuttings. Remove the plastic permanently and transplant the cuttings into individual pots when new growth appears, which indicates the cuttings have rooted. This process may take several days or a few weeks.
Rooting Scented Geraniums in Water
Most gardeners find that rooting Pelargonium cuttings in potting mix is more dependable, but you may have good luck rooting scented geraniums in water. Here’s how: Fill a jar about one-third with room temperature water. Place a scented geranium cutting in the water. Ensure the bottom one-third of the cutting is submerged. Place the jar in a warm spot, such as a sunny window. Avoid hot, direct sunlight, which will cook the cutting. Watch for roots to develop in about a month. Then, plant the rooted cutting in a pot filled with regular potting mix.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Salad burnet plant is a Mediterranean native with hardy tolerance. It is a perennial herb, which is naturalized in Europe and North America. Salad burnet herb is a member of the rose family and is used as an erosion control, salad green and used for flavoring in vinegars and sauces. There are also old cosmetic and medicinal applications for the plant. Salad burnet is easy to grow and makes a useful addition to the herb garden or perennial bed.
Salad Burnet Herb
The salad burnet herb (Sanguisorba minor) is a low 6- to 18-inch leafy plant that begins as a rosette. It has pinnate basal leaves with four to 12 pairs of leaflets. The leaflets are oval and lightly serrated at the edges. The leaves taste like cucumber and add a fresh taste to salads. The herb is savory when mixed into an herb butter, mixed into spreading cheese, chopped and sprinkled over vegetables or as part of a potato dish. Clumps of the plant get 12 inches across and remain small with consistent harvesting.
Salad Burnet Flowers
Salad burnet flowers appear in spring and are in a rounded cluster of purple to pink tiny blooms. Salad burnet flowers can be used as a garnish for fresh drinks or cakes. Salad burnet plant has male, bisexual and female flowers that appear in late spring and early summer. The top flowers are male, middle flowers bisexual and the female flowers grow on the top of the cluster. The flowering stems rise from the basal rosette and can grow to 1 foot in height.
How to Grow Salad Burnet
Learning how to grow salad burnet is similar to learning any herbal cultivation. It thrives in well-drained soil with a pH of 6.8 and a sunny to partially shady location. The herb starts easily from seed, which should be planted 12 inches apart. The old foliage and flowering stems need to be removed, as they appear to force new growth. The bed needs to be weeded and salad burnet should be watered during dry periods. Salad burnet does not tolerate transplanting so ensure you like the location before you plant the herb. The flowers of salad burnet herb are not self-pollinating and must be pollinated by wind. In good conditions, the plants will form seed in fall. They will self-seed easily and form a patch of the herb. Older plants should be removed because their flavor is not as good as the plant ages. New plants grow so easily that a constant supply of tender new leaves can be had by saving seed and successional sowing. Sprinkle the seed in the garden bed and cover lightly with a dusting of sand. With moderate moisture, salad burnet growing is easy and fast.
Salad Burnet Herb
The salad burnet herb (Sanguisorba minor) is a low 6- to 18-inch leafy plant that begins as a rosette. It has pinnate basal leaves with four to 12 pairs of leaflets. The leaflets are oval and lightly serrated at the edges. The leaves taste like cucumber and add a fresh taste to salads. The herb is savory when mixed into an herb butter, mixed into spreading cheese, chopped and sprinkled over vegetables or as part of a potato dish. Clumps of the plant get 12 inches across and remain small with consistent harvesting.
Salad Burnet Flowers
Salad burnet flowers appear in spring and are in a rounded cluster of purple to pink tiny blooms. Salad burnet flowers can be used as a garnish for fresh drinks or cakes. Salad burnet plant has male, bisexual and female flowers that appear in late spring and early summer. The top flowers are male, middle flowers bisexual and the female flowers grow on the top of the cluster. The flowering stems rise from the basal rosette and can grow to 1 foot in height.
How to Grow Salad Burnet
Learning how to grow salad burnet is similar to learning any herbal cultivation. It thrives in well-drained soil with a pH of 6.8 and a sunny to partially shady location. The herb starts easily from seed, which should be planted 12 inches apart. The old foliage and flowering stems need to be removed, as they appear to force new growth. The bed needs to be weeded and salad burnet should be watered during dry periods. Salad burnet does not tolerate transplanting so ensure you like the location before you plant the herb. The flowers of salad burnet herb are not self-pollinating and must be pollinated by wind. In good conditions, the plants will form seed in fall. They will self-seed easily and form a patch of the herb. Older plants should be removed because their flavor is not as good as the plant ages. New plants grow so easily that a constant supply of tender new leaves can be had by saving seed and successional sowing. Sprinkle the seed in the garden bed and cover lightly with a dusting of sand. With moderate moisture, salad burnet growing is easy and fast.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Agastache is a perennial plant with lovely flower spires that bloom all season long. The Agastache flower is commonly found in purple to lavender but may also bloom in pink, rose, blue, white and orange. Growing Agastache as a drought-loving perennial actually produces the best plants. Agastache plant is tolerant of low water and poor nutrient conditions but provides you with a color display and enduring greenery for months. Learning how to grow Agastache requires no special skills or care.
What is Agastache Plant?
Agastache is in the Hyssop family of herbs and makes a flavorful tea. It is a striking plant that has many varieties, some of which are hardy and others that are frost tender and grown as annuals in most cooler climates. Growing Agastache requires sun and well drained soil. The leaves resemble catmint and are a dull green with heavy veining. The plants can grow 2 to 6 feet tall and produce the showy Agastache flowers until the first frost. Agastache flowers come in a variety of colors and rise up off of stiff triangular stems. The blooms have the appearance of being coated with fuzz because they are comprised of many tiny florets. The entire flower may be 3 to 4 inches long and begin to bloom from the top down. This means that the florets at the crown of the flower die out first, leaving tips that look slightly burnt. This just adds more interest to the Agastache plant.
How to Grow Agastache
Growing Agastache can be done indoors as starts or you may direct seed into the garden in spring. Flowers will be produce quickly on plants that are started indoors in May and transplanted in early summer. Agastache plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 10. Most plants can survive temperatures down to 10 F. (-12 C.) if heavily mulched. Provide plenty of water when plants are establishing but they can mostly fend for themselves thereafter.
Agastache Varieties
There are many types of Agastache. The genus represents 30 different plants, each with different flower color, height, foliage, aroma and hardiness. Giant hyssop is a perennial garden favorite that tops 6 feet in height. Anise hyssop or Anise Agastache (Agastache foeniculum) is a licorice flavored and scented plant that makes an excellent tea. There is even a bubble gum scented cultivar. ‘Golden Jubilee’ bears golden yellow foliage with blue flowers. There are new cultivars of Agastache flowers bred every year. It is easy to find Agastache varieties for every garden.
Agastache Uses
Agastache are usually tall plants and their lengthy stalks show best at the back of a perennial border or lining a fence. They can be used in container gardens or in cut flower gardens, as the Agastache flowers are long lasting. Growing Agastache in the butterfly garden not only attracts those beautiful insects but pollinators and hummingbirds. Deer and rabbits do not seem to enjoy Agastache, which makes it ideal for the woodland garden.
What is Agastache Plant?
Agastache is in the Hyssop family of herbs and makes a flavorful tea. It is a striking plant that has many varieties, some of which are hardy and others that are frost tender and grown as annuals in most cooler climates. Growing Agastache requires sun and well drained soil. The leaves resemble catmint and are a dull green with heavy veining. The plants can grow 2 to 6 feet tall and produce the showy Agastache flowers until the first frost. Agastache flowers come in a variety of colors and rise up off of stiff triangular stems. The blooms have the appearance of being coated with fuzz because they are comprised of many tiny florets. The entire flower may be 3 to 4 inches long and begin to bloom from the top down. This means that the florets at the crown of the flower die out first, leaving tips that look slightly burnt. This just adds more interest to the Agastache plant.
How to Grow Agastache
Growing Agastache can be done indoors as starts or you may direct seed into the garden in spring. Flowers will be produce quickly on plants that are started indoors in May and transplanted in early summer. Agastache plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 10. Most plants can survive temperatures down to 10 F. (-12 C.) if heavily mulched. Provide plenty of water when plants are establishing but they can mostly fend for themselves thereafter.
Agastache Varieties
There are many types of Agastache. The genus represents 30 different plants, each with different flower color, height, foliage, aroma and hardiness. Giant hyssop is a perennial garden favorite that tops 6 feet in height. Anise hyssop or Anise Agastache (Agastache foeniculum) is a licorice flavored and scented plant that makes an excellent tea. There is even a bubble gum scented cultivar. ‘Golden Jubilee’ bears golden yellow foliage with blue flowers. There are new cultivars of Agastache flowers bred every year. It is easy to find Agastache varieties for every garden.
Agastache Uses
Agastache are usually tall plants and their lengthy stalks show best at the back of a perennial border or lining a fence. They can be used in container gardens or in cut flower gardens, as the Agastache flowers are long lasting. Growing Agastache in the butterfly garden not only attracts those beautiful insects but pollinators and hummingbirds. Deer and rabbits do not seem to enjoy Agastache, which makes it ideal for the woodland garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a jungle cactus that prefers humidity and moisture, unlike its standard cactus cousins, which require a warm, arid climate. A winter-bloomer, Christmas cactus displays flowers in shades of red, lavender, rose, purple, white, peach, cream and orange, depending on the variety. These prolific growers eventually need to be repotted. Repotting Christmas cactus isn’t complicated, but the key is knowing when and how to repot a Christmas cactus.
When to Repot Christmas Cactus
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming. Don’t rush to repot Christmas cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant. Repotting Christmas cactus every three to four years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot a Christmas Cactus
Here are some Christmas cactus potting tips that will help you find success: Take your time because repotting a Christmas cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand. Repot Christmas cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air. Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water. Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately. Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care rout
When to Repot Christmas Cactus
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming. Don’t rush to repot Christmas cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant. Repotting Christmas cactus every three to four years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot a Christmas Cactus
Here are some Christmas cactus potting tips that will help you find success: Take your time because repotting a Christmas cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand. Repot Christmas cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air. Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water. Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately. Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care rout
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Portulaca grandiflora, commonly called moss rose, grows as a colorful, spreading ground cover in beds, borders and containers. This annual flower grows readily from seed broadcast directly in the garden bed, or you can plant it from transplants in spring after frost danger has passed. Moss rose is related to the invasive annual weed purslane (Portulaca oleracea). Although the cultivated version doesn't spread as readily, it can also become invasive in some areas.
The Right Location
Moss rose grows well in rocky, sandy soil that drains quickly. The plants spread fast, covering up to 12 inches of bed and growing about 6 inches tall. When adding plants to the garden, give moss rose the room it needs to reach its full spread and avoid planting tall plants nearby that may shade it. Moss rose spreads by self-seeding, so growing it in a site where you want it to return each year is the best choice. In mild, frost-free climates it sometimes becomes invasive and shouldn't be planted.
A Little Drink
Although highly drought-tolerant, you will be rewarded with more flowers and lusher foliage if you water moss rose regularly. Provide about 1 inch of water weekly unless there is a comparable amount of rainfall. Container-grown plants may need daily watering, so water these when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Overhead watering, which wets the foliage, damages the flowers or causes them to drop prematurely. Water near the base of the plants so the flowers and leaves stay dry. Moss rose doesn't need fertilizers and can grow well in poor soil.
Off With Their Heads
Regular deadheading serves two purposes: It removes the old flowers so they don't form seeds, and it cleans up the plants while encouraging more flowers. Grasp the stem behind the wilted flower and pinch it off, removing both the old bloom and the swollen seed-producing structure at the base of the flower. Moss rose flowers from midsummer through fall, so you may need to deadhead a few times a week. You can also trim back dead or damaged stems to a leaf or bud. Simply pinch off the stem or cut it off with shears that have been wiped with a cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol.
Watch for Problems
Few pests or diseases bother moss rose. Aphids, small pear-shaped, sap-sucking insects, may sometimes feed on the foliage. Rinse them off with a sharp spray of water aimed at the undersides of the leaves. Root rot is an issue that will kill the plants in wet or poorly drained soil, but planting in the appropriate site prevents problems. Rust, a fungal disease, may infect a plant. The fungus causes the stems and leaves to swell, and white pustules form on the foliage. Pull up and destroy infected plants so they don't spread the fungal spores.
The Right Location
Moss rose grows well in rocky, sandy soil that drains quickly. The plants spread fast, covering up to 12 inches of bed and growing about 6 inches tall. When adding plants to the garden, give moss rose the room it needs to reach its full spread and avoid planting tall plants nearby that may shade it. Moss rose spreads by self-seeding, so growing it in a site where you want it to return each year is the best choice. In mild, frost-free climates it sometimes becomes invasive and shouldn't be planted.
A Little Drink
Although highly drought-tolerant, you will be rewarded with more flowers and lusher foliage if you water moss rose regularly. Provide about 1 inch of water weekly unless there is a comparable amount of rainfall. Container-grown plants may need daily watering, so water these when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Overhead watering, which wets the foliage, damages the flowers or causes them to drop prematurely. Water near the base of the plants so the flowers and leaves stay dry. Moss rose doesn't need fertilizers and can grow well in poor soil.
Off With Their Heads
Regular deadheading serves two purposes: It removes the old flowers so they don't form seeds, and it cleans up the plants while encouraging more flowers. Grasp the stem behind the wilted flower and pinch it off, removing both the old bloom and the swollen seed-producing structure at the base of the flower. Moss rose flowers from midsummer through fall, so you may need to deadhead a few times a week. You can also trim back dead or damaged stems to a leaf or bud. Simply pinch off the stem or cut it off with shears that have been wiped with a cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol.
Watch for Problems
Few pests or diseases bother moss rose. Aphids, small pear-shaped, sap-sucking insects, may sometimes feed on the foliage. Rinse them off with a sharp spray of water aimed at the undersides of the leaves. Root rot is an issue that will kill the plants in wet or poorly drained soil, but planting in the appropriate site prevents problems. Rust, a fungal disease, may infect a plant. The fungus causes the stems and leaves to swell, and white pustules form on the foliage. Pull up and destroy infected plants so they don't spread the fungal spores.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Portulaca grandiflora, also called moss rose, tends to self-seed, but harvesting seeds from this annual plant helps keep it where you want it. Moss rose quickly spreads in full-sun, dry areas when seed capsules are left on the plant. Growing 4 to 8 inches tall and 6 to 24 inches wide, moss rose varieties include the early-flowering Margarita series, "Sundial," which produces early, double flowers in sunset colors, and "Calypso," which features white, yellow, orange, pink or purple double flowers.
Moss Rose Varieties
Suppliers sell moss rose cultivars, hybrids, strains, heirlooms and mixes, and only some of these come true from seed. Cultivars and hybrids are specially bred to have certain characteristics, such as flower color, shape or performance, but they don't pass on these characteristics to their offspring. Some cultivar and hybrid seeds may not even sprout. Strains and heirloom plants are often older varieties, and these are more reliable in producing plants that are similar to themselves. Mixes are different varieties mixed together, and these may cross-fertilize, producing unpredictable results. Moss rose cultivars and hybrids are often more expensive than other varieties. If you aren't sure what type of moss rose you're growing, ask the garden center where you bought it.
Harvesting Seed
Moss rose seeds are fine as dust and develop inside seed capsules, which you can harvest. Moss rose flowers in summer. The seed capsules are 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, and they develop after the flowers are pollinated. When the seed capsules are ripe, they turn dry and papery and split open. Inside are many tiny, blue-gray seeds.
Harvest ripe moss rose seed capsules on a dry, sunny day. If you aren't sure whether the capsules are ripe, gently rub one between your thumb and forefinger. To avoid spilling the seeds on the soil, where they may sprout the following year, take a seed capsule indoors before testing it. Pinch off the ripe capsules and put them in a paper bag.
Separating Seed
Moss rose seeds should be separated from the seed capsules and dried before storing. Crush the seed capsules over a sheet of newspaper in a draft-free place. Place a colander on another sheet of newspaper, and pour the the crushed seed capsules into the colander. Gently shake the colander so that the seeds fall through but the capsule debris is left behind.
Moss rose seeds must be stored in an airtight container. Lift the newspaper and close it along its crease. Place one edge of the crease at the lip of an open airtight container, and lift the newspaper so the seeds slide into the container. Flick the newspaper once or twice with your finger to loosen any remaining seeds, put the newspaper down, then seal the container.
Storing Seed
A refrigerator is the best place for storing moss rose seeds, where they will remain fresh for sowing the following year. Put moss rose seeds in their sealed, airtight container in a refrigerator or similar cool, dry place such as a basement or cellar. Don't place the container in direct light, and don't open the container to check on the seeds until it's time to sow them. Direct light warms up the inside of the container, damaging the seeds, and opening the container allows moisture inside, which encourages the seeds to rot.
Moss Rose Varieties
Suppliers sell moss rose cultivars, hybrids, strains, heirlooms and mixes, and only some of these come true from seed. Cultivars and hybrids are specially bred to have certain characteristics, such as flower color, shape or performance, but they don't pass on these characteristics to their offspring. Some cultivar and hybrid seeds may not even sprout. Strains and heirloom plants are often older varieties, and these are more reliable in producing plants that are similar to themselves. Mixes are different varieties mixed together, and these may cross-fertilize, producing unpredictable results. Moss rose cultivars and hybrids are often more expensive than other varieties. If you aren't sure what type of moss rose you're growing, ask the garden center where you bought it.
Harvesting Seed
Moss rose seeds are fine as dust and develop inside seed capsules, which you can harvest. Moss rose flowers in summer. The seed capsules are 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, and they develop after the flowers are pollinated. When the seed capsules are ripe, they turn dry and papery and split open. Inside are many tiny, blue-gray seeds.
Harvest ripe moss rose seed capsules on a dry, sunny day. If you aren't sure whether the capsules are ripe, gently rub one between your thumb and forefinger. To avoid spilling the seeds on the soil, where they may sprout the following year, take a seed capsule indoors before testing it. Pinch off the ripe capsules and put them in a paper bag.
Separating Seed
Moss rose seeds should be separated from the seed capsules and dried before storing. Crush the seed capsules over a sheet of newspaper in a draft-free place. Place a colander on another sheet of newspaper, and pour the the crushed seed capsules into the colander. Gently shake the colander so that the seeds fall through but the capsule debris is left behind.
Moss rose seeds must be stored in an airtight container. Lift the newspaper and close it along its crease. Place one edge of the crease at the lip of an open airtight container, and lift the newspaper so the seeds slide into the container. Flick the newspaper once or twice with your finger to loosen any remaining seeds, put the newspaper down, then seal the container.
Storing Seed
A refrigerator is the best place for storing moss rose seeds, where they will remain fresh for sowing the following year. Put moss rose seeds in their sealed, airtight container in a refrigerator or similar cool, dry place such as a basement or cellar. Don't place the container in direct light, and don't open the container to check on the seeds until it's time to sow them. Direct light warms up the inside of the container, damaging the seeds, and opening the container allows moisture inside, which encourages the seeds to rot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
This member of the Rose family (Rosaceae) has been cultivated throughout the Mediterranean region, but it is actually a native of North Africa and western Asia. The pretty bright pink buds of the flowers, which fade to white after they open, appear before the leaves and can often be seen from January onwards in the southern Iberian Peninsula.
In the Algarve in Portugal, where this specimen was photographed, the once thriving industry of growing almonds for marzipan has collapsed in favour of using cheaper imported nuts from abroad, although the Portuguese continue to make the almond-paste fruits, sweets and desserts for which they are world famous. This means that many of the almond orchards are now abandoned; the fruits of these neglected trees often contain poisonous prussic acid (hydrogen cyanide) and should therefore be avoided.
In the Algarve in Portugal, where this specimen was photographed, the once thriving industry of growing almonds for marzipan has collapsed in favour of using cheaper imported nuts from abroad, although the Portuguese continue to make the almond-paste fruits, sweets and desserts for which they are world famous. This means that many of the almond orchards are now abandoned; the fruits of these neglected trees often contain poisonous prussic acid (hydrogen cyanide) and should therefore be avoided.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
If you have a sunny spot in the garden that tends to stay dry during the summer, a cheerful little plant called moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora) could be the perfect choice to brighten this area. A semi-succulent, creeping plant, it's named for the roselike appearance of its flowers, that come in pink, red, yellow, orange or white. A tough, easy-to-grow plant, moss rose is an annual, but it self-seeds readily and can keep an area filled with colorful flowers year after year.
New Seeds From Old Flowers
Moss rose comes in many different cultivars, some with single flowers and others with extra-showy, double flowers. Flowers on all types grow on the tips on the plant's stems, opening fully in the sun and closing overnight. The flowers also stay closed on overcast days. Grow the plant in a spot with excellent drainage that gets full sun all day to get the most flowers, which will open nonstop from midsummer into fall.
Although moss rose doesn't live through winter and is easily damaged by cold weather, you can promote a self-renewing plot by leaving the flowers on the plant. They will eventually wilt and, over time, petals will fall. Next, the remaining central part of the old flower develops tiny black seeds that drop to the ground when mature.
Seedlings the Following Spring
If you want to see new moss rose seedlings in the same spot next spring, avoid raking or disturbing the soil under the plants, because the seeds need light to germinate. When fall arrives and the plants begin to die back, cut them off carefully just above the soil line to keep the area tidy, but don't pull the plants out by the roots to avoid burying seeds that have dropped. If you live where winter temperatures fall below freezing, the remaining plant parts will die back and dry up before spring arrives.
When weather warms the following spring, keep the soil in the self-seeded area moist. Once moss rose seedlings appear, you can allow them to grow in place or carefully dig them up, adding them to containers or re-locating them in the garden.
Flowers Until Fall
Like many flowering plants, moss rose slows flower production once it produces mature seeds. Eventually, flowering stops and the plant starts to fade near the end of the season. But removing spent flowers as they appear -- called deadheading -- helps keep new flowers coming throughout the season and promotes strong new growth.
You can have the best of both worlds by removing all but a few old flowers from the plant, letting the remaining blooms fade naturally and set seeds. In response, the plant continues making new flower buds, keeping new flowers coming -- but fewer of them -- later in the season. Use sharp shears when deadheading to cut off stem tips that bear flowers, wiping your blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant diseases.
Other Care Issues
Although the moss rose is drought-tolerant, it flowers best when it gets regular water, with about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain, being best. A naturally creeping plant, it can spread to cover an area up to 2 feet wide, developing into a flower-covered, 6-inch-tall mound.
This plant is generally free of pests and diseases, although it might develop root rot if grown in an overly wet area. An affected plant has soft, brown roots and tends to die back, with damage starting at its base. It's best to dig up and throw out any affected plant and re-plant new seedlings in a drier area.
New Seeds From Old Flowers
Moss rose comes in many different cultivars, some with single flowers and others with extra-showy, double flowers. Flowers on all types grow on the tips on the plant's stems, opening fully in the sun and closing overnight. The flowers also stay closed on overcast days. Grow the plant in a spot with excellent drainage that gets full sun all day to get the most flowers, which will open nonstop from midsummer into fall.
Although moss rose doesn't live through winter and is easily damaged by cold weather, you can promote a self-renewing plot by leaving the flowers on the plant. They will eventually wilt and, over time, petals will fall. Next, the remaining central part of the old flower develops tiny black seeds that drop to the ground when mature.
Seedlings the Following Spring
If you want to see new moss rose seedlings in the same spot next spring, avoid raking or disturbing the soil under the plants, because the seeds need light to germinate. When fall arrives and the plants begin to die back, cut them off carefully just above the soil line to keep the area tidy, but don't pull the plants out by the roots to avoid burying seeds that have dropped. If you live where winter temperatures fall below freezing, the remaining plant parts will die back and dry up before spring arrives.
When weather warms the following spring, keep the soil in the self-seeded area moist. Once moss rose seedlings appear, you can allow them to grow in place or carefully dig them up, adding them to containers or re-locating them in the garden.
Flowers Until Fall
Like many flowering plants, moss rose slows flower production once it produces mature seeds. Eventually, flowering stops and the plant starts to fade near the end of the season. But removing spent flowers as they appear -- called deadheading -- helps keep new flowers coming throughout the season and promotes strong new growth.
You can have the best of both worlds by removing all but a few old flowers from the plant, letting the remaining blooms fade naturally and set seeds. In response, the plant continues making new flower buds, keeping new flowers coming -- but fewer of them -- later in the season. Use sharp shears when deadheading to cut off stem tips that bear flowers, wiping your blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant diseases.
Other Care Issues
Although the moss rose is drought-tolerant, it flowers best when it gets regular water, with about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain, being best. A naturally creeping plant, it can spread to cover an area up to 2 feet wide, developing into a flower-covered, 6-inch-tall mound.
This plant is generally free of pests and diseases, although it might develop root rot if grown in an overly wet area. An affected plant has soft, brown roots and tends to die back, with damage starting at its base. It's best to dig up and throw out any affected plant and re-plant new seedlings in a drier area.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Sometimes called Rose Grape, Philipinne Orchid, Pink Lantern plant or Chandelier tree, Medinilla magnifica is small evergreen shrub native to the Philippines where it is usually found growing on trees in tropical forests. However, Medinilla has been grown for hundreds of years as an exotic houseplant, once prized in Belgium by the wealthy and noble. Learn how you, too, can grow this exotic species.
Medinilla Information
Medinilla is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 4 ft. tall. It grows like epiphytic orchids, in holes and crotches of trees. Unlike orchids, though, Medinilla does not absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients via velamen (corky epidermis of aerial roots). Instead, the plant has large succulent green leaves, which hold onto or store moisture similar to other succulent plants. In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Grow Medinilla Plants
Medinilla needs a warm and humid environment to survive. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). In fact, 63-77 degrees F. (17-25 C.) is ideal for proper Medinilla plant care. It prefers warm days in high but filtered light, and cooler nights in the 60s. Cooler nights help the plant to send out more flowers. Before purchasing Medinilla, be sure you can give it the warm, humid conditions it needs year round. As a succulent, Medinilla does not need to be watered often, usually just thoroughly once a week. It does enjoy being misted by water often, especially in the dry winter months. If you have Medinilla as a houseplant, you may need to run a humidifier in the home during winter. Also, be sure to keep Medinilla plants away from air ducts and drafty windows.
Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
Caring for Medinilla plants isn’t difficult once you know what it needs. Grow the plant in filtered shade to full sun, though it prefers to avoid direct afternoon sun. During the flowering period, deadhead spent blooms to promote new flowers and keep the plant healthy looking. After the flowering period, give Medinilla regular houseplant or orchid fertilizer. At this point, your Medinilla can be cut back to keep under control and create bushier new growth. Be sure to leave at least one leaf set on each stalk you cut, or that stalk will die back completely. If you need to repot your Medinilla, do it after the flowering season. Repotting is an excellent time for Medinilla plant propagation, as the easiest way to create new Medinilla plants is by dividing an existing plant. When the time comes that your Medinilla has out grown its pot, just divide the plant in to several new pots.
Medinilla Information
Medinilla is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 4 ft. tall. It grows like epiphytic orchids, in holes and crotches of trees. Unlike orchids, though, Medinilla does not absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients via velamen (corky epidermis of aerial roots). Instead, the plant has large succulent green leaves, which hold onto or store moisture similar to other succulent plants. In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Grow Medinilla Plants
Medinilla needs a warm and humid environment to survive. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). In fact, 63-77 degrees F. (17-25 C.) is ideal for proper Medinilla plant care. It prefers warm days in high but filtered light, and cooler nights in the 60s. Cooler nights help the plant to send out more flowers. Before purchasing Medinilla, be sure you can give it the warm, humid conditions it needs year round. As a succulent, Medinilla does not need to be watered often, usually just thoroughly once a week. It does enjoy being misted by water often, especially in the dry winter months. If you have Medinilla as a houseplant, you may need to run a humidifier in the home during winter. Also, be sure to keep Medinilla plants away from air ducts and drafty windows.
Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
Caring for Medinilla plants isn’t difficult once you know what it needs. Grow the plant in filtered shade to full sun, though it prefers to avoid direct afternoon sun. During the flowering period, deadhead spent blooms to promote new flowers and keep the plant healthy looking. After the flowering period, give Medinilla regular houseplant or orchid fertilizer. At this point, your Medinilla can be cut back to keep under control and create bushier new growth. Be sure to leave at least one leaf set on each stalk you cut, or that stalk will die back completely. If you need to repot your Medinilla, do it after the flowering season. Repotting is an excellent time for Medinilla plant propagation, as the easiest way to create new Medinilla plants is by dividing an existing plant. When the time comes that your Medinilla has out grown its pot, just divide the plant in to several new pots.
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