文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
More than 200 microspecies of Alchemilla vulgaris are known to exist in Europe. These perennial wildflowers, members of the rose family, are sometimes grown in gardens - mainly for their leaves, which collect sparkling water droplets.
Identification
The distinctively corrugated and lobed (5 to 11 lobes with the upper leaves having fewer) kidney-shaped to semicircular leaves of Alchemilla make identification to genus level fairly straightforward.
The yellowish-green flowers form clusters. Each individual flower is typically 3mm in diameter, with no true petals but a four-lobed epicalyx, four sepals and usually four but sometimes five stamens.
Distribution
Alchemilla vulgaris is widespread and common throughout Britain and Ireland; it is also found throughout mainland Europe. This plant is also recorded as occurring in Greenland.
Habitat
Lady's Mantle is commonly seen in unimproved or lightly fertilised grassland, on roadside verges and banks, in chalk downland and on mountain slopes.
Blooming Times
In Britain and Ireland the tiny flowers of Alchemilla vulgaris can be seen from June through to September.
Similar Species
Alchemilla mollis, a rather larger species but otherwise very similar, is quite a common garden escape that sometimes appears in hedgerows and on unkempt grassland.
Uses
Lady's Mantle, which contains salicylic acid, has sedative properties and has been used to alleviate cramps and menstruation pains.Another traditional use of this plant is as an astringent; it contains tannin and has styptic properties. In the past the leaves were used to dress wounds, rather as Stachys species (woundworts) were.
Identification
The distinctively corrugated and lobed (5 to 11 lobes with the upper leaves having fewer) kidney-shaped to semicircular leaves of Alchemilla make identification to genus level fairly straightforward.
The yellowish-green flowers form clusters. Each individual flower is typically 3mm in diameter, with no true petals but a four-lobed epicalyx, four sepals and usually four but sometimes five stamens.
Distribution
Alchemilla vulgaris is widespread and common throughout Britain and Ireland; it is also found throughout mainland Europe. This plant is also recorded as occurring in Greenland.
Habitat
Lady's Mantle is commonly seen in unimproved or lightly fertilised grassland, on roadside verges and banks, in chalk downland and on mountain slopes.
Blooming Times
In Britain and Ireland the tiny flowers of Alchemilla vulgaris can be seen from June through to September.
Similar Species
Alchemilla mollis, a rather larger species but otherwise very similar, is quite a common garden escape that sometimes appears in hedgerows and on unkempt grassland.
Uses
Lady's Mantle, which contains salicylic acid, has sedative properties and has been used to alleviate cramps and menstruation pains.Another traditional use of this plant is as an astringent; it contains tannin and has styptic properties. In the past the leaves were used to dress wounds, rather as Stachys species (woundworts) were.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
The name Rhododendron comes from the greek words "rodon" which means "rose" and "dendron" which means "tree", hence Rose Tree. Rhododendron flowers are usually produced in trusses. The family Ericacea, into which the genus Rhododendron falls, also includes heathers, mountain laurels, blueberries and cranberries as well as manzanita, trailing arbutus, madrone, huckleberry, kalmiopsis, sourwood, blueberries and a number of other genus. Rhododendrons are referred to as the King of Shrubs since they are regarded by many as the best flowering evergreen plants for the temperate landscape.
Facts About Rhododendron
Most people know rhododendrons as big leathery leafed shrubs with round clusters of white, pink, red, or purple blooms.
Rhododendron was discovered by The 16th century Flemish botanist, Charles l'Ecluse.
Rhododendron was introduced to Britain in 1656 from the European Alps, and so the name Alpine Rose for Rhododendron histrum.
Exploration in America came as a result of a partnership between English Quaker Peter Collinson and botanist/farmer John Bartram of Pennsylvania. This led to the importation to England of the American natives, Rhododendron canescens, Rhododendron nudiflorum, and Rhododendron viscosum in 1734, and Rhododendron maximum in 1736.
Rhododendron ferrugineum, another species from the European Alps also known as the Alpine Rose, came along in 1752.
The Washington State Senate confirmed that the Coast Rhododendron / Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum) would be the floral emblem for Washington state.
Rhododendron is also the national flower of Nepal, and the state flower of Sikkim in India.
All the parts of Rhododendrons are dangerous, especially leaves, showing symptoms of Stomach irritation, abdominal pain, abnormal heart rate and rhythm, convulsions, coma, death. Honey made from the nectar of Rhododendron flowers is also toxic and should not be consumed.
What is the difference between Rhododendrons and Azaleas?
The genus Rhododendron includes both Rhododendrons and Azaleas. In this genus, both Rhododendron and Azalea are used as common names. The distinctions that follow are made by gardeners. The Rhododendron plants are usually evergreen and those labeled Azalea plants are deciduous, although there are a few evergreen Azaleas like those in the florist or nursery trade. To the typical gardener, azaleas are conspicuous because they don't have trusses. The exception to this is the Homebush type azaleas which have a very tight ball shaped truss but this type of azalea is deciduous. It should be mentioned that the tropical Vireya rhododendrons don't have a truss either and look more like azaleas but are in general treated as a special class, different from most other rhododendrons and azaleas.
Rhododendrons have ten or more stamens, while Azaleas have five.
Rhododendrons have large, paddle-shaped leaves and large, bell- or funnel-shaped flowers borne in terminal trusses. Azaleas have small, elliptical leaves and trumpet- or tubular-shaped flowers at the ends of the shoots. Still some rhododendrons, called lepidoes have small leaves and small flowers and some rhododendrons are naturally miniature have miniscule leaves and flowers. It is true that all azaleas have small leaves compared to the large leaved rhododendrons, the elepidotes.
Rhododendrons are erect, growing up to 80 feet high, while Azaleas are more twiggy, spreading bushes, usually reaching a height of no more than 8 feet.
Both Rhododendrons and Azaleas provide fragrant blossoms in an array of colors - from pure white and light pastels to brilliant orange and gold to purple and red. Some blossoms change color over time or are marked with contrasting colors.
Growing Rhododendrons
Never plant a rhododendron deeper than it was originally planted. The roots seldom ever extend more than twelve inches deep. Planting them deeper than twelve inches will prevent them from getting enough air.
Plant Rhododendrons in spring or fall.
Space plants 2 to 6 feet apart, depending on the expected mature size of the plant.Dig a hole only as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Rhododendrons need an acidic soil. If your soil is in very poor condition, amend the soil you've removed from the hole with a small amount of compost.
Carefully remove the plant from the container and set it in the hole.
Fill the hole half full with soil, then water it well to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.
The chief killer of rhododendrons is wet soil. Rhododendrons need moist well drained soil, but not a water logged soil. Rhododendrons seem to thrive in Mediterranean climates where there are long periods with no rain.
Rhododendrons Plant Care
Apply a layer of compost under the shrub each spring, spreading it out to the dripline (the area under the outermost branches).
Add a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds, keeping mulch a few inches away from the trunk.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. In regions with severe winters, protect evergreen rhododendrons in the fall by wrapping burlap around them.
Although seldom, rhododendrons need Pruning to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches anytime. Prune Rhododendrons to reduce height after flowering in spring. Rhododendrons will grow back from old wood.
Rhododendrons are not usually prone to insects or diseases. They can develop a condition called chlorosis, which is characterized by yellowing of a leaf between dark green veins. Chlorosis can be caused by malnutrition caused by alkalinity of the soil, potassium deficiency, calcium deficiency, iron deficiency or magnesium deficiency. A combination of acidification with sulfur and iron supplements such as chelated iron or iron sulfate will usually treat this problem. Chlorosis can also be caused by nitrogen toxicity (usually caused by nitrate fertilizers) or other conditions that damage the roots such as root rot, severe cutting of the roots, root weevils or root death caused by extreme amounts of fertilizer.
Facts About Rhododendron
Most people know rhododendrons as big leathery leafed shrubs with round clusters of white, pink, red, or purple blooms.
Rhododendron was discovered by The 16th century Flemish botanist, Charles l'Ecluse.
Rhododendron was introduced to Britain in 1656 from the European Alps, and so the name Alpine Rose for Rhododendron histrum.
Exploration in America came as a result of a partnership between English Quaker Peter Collinson and botanist/farmer John Bartram of Pennsylvania. This led to the importation to England of the American natives, Rhododendron canescens, Rhododendron nudiflorum, and Rhododendron viscosum in 1734, and Rhododendron maximum in 1736.
Rhododendron ferrugineum, another species from the European Alps also known as the Alpine Rose, came along in 1752.
The Washington State Senate confirmed that the Coast Rhododendron / Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum) would be the floral emblem for Washington state.
Rhododendron is also the national flower of Nepal, and the state flower of Sikkim in India.
All the parts of Rhododendrons are dangerous, especially leaves, showing symptoms of Stomach irritation, abdominal pain, abnormal heart rate and rhythm, convulsions, coma, death. Honey made from the nectar of Rhododendron flowers is also toxic and should not be consumed.
What is the difference between Rhododendrons and Azaleas?
The genus Rhododendron includes both Rhododendrons and Azaleas. In this genus, both Rhododendron and Azalea are used as common names. The distinctions that follow are made by gardeners. The Rhododendron plants are usually evergreen and those labeled Azalea plants are deciduous, although there are a few evergreen Azaleas like those in the florist or nursery trade. To the typical gardener, azaleas are conspicuous because they don't have trusses. The exception to this is the Homebush type azaleas which have a very tight ball shaped truss but this type of azalea is deciduous. It should be mentioned that the tropical Vireya rhododendrons don't have a truss either and look more like azaleas but are in general treated as a special class, different from most other rhododendrons and azaleas.
Rhododendrons have ten or more stamens, while Azaleas have five.
Rhododendrons have large, paddle-shaped leaves and large, bell- or funnel-shaped flowers borne in terminal trusses. Azaleas have small, elliptical leaves and trumpet- or tubular-shaped flowers at the ends of the shoots. Still some rhododendrons, called lepidoes have small leaves and small flowers and some rhododendrons are naturally miniature have miniscule leaves and flowers. It is true that all azaleas have small leaves compared to the large leaved rhododendrons, the elepidotes.
Rhododendrons are erect, growing up to 80 feet high, while Azaleas are more twiggy, spreading bushes, usually reaching a height of no more than 8 feet.
Both Rhododendrons and Azaleas provide fragrant blossoms in an array of colors - from pure white and light pastels to brilliant orange and gold to purple and red. Some blossoms change color over time or are marked with contrasting colors.
Growing Rhododendrons
Never plant a rhododendron deeper than it was originally planted. The roots seldom ever extend more than twelve inches deep. Planting them deeper than twelve inches will prevent them from getting enough air.
Plant Rhododendrons in spring or fall.
Space plants 2 to 6 feet apart, depending on the expected mature size of the plant.Dig a hole only as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Rhododendrons need an acidic soil. If your soil is in very poor condition, amend the soil you've removed from the hole with a small amount of compost.
Carefully remove the plant from the container and set it in the hole.
Fill the hole half full with soil, then water it well to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.
The chief killer of rhododendrons is wet soil. Rhododendrons need moist well drained soil, but not a water logged soil. Rhododendrons seem to thrive in Mediterranean climates where there are long periods with no rain.
Rhododendrons Plant Care
Apply a layer of compost under the shrub each spring, spreading it out to the dripline (the area under the outermost branches).
Add a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds, keeping mulch a few inches away from the trunk.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. In regions with severe winters, protect evergreen rhododendrons in the fall by wrapping burlap around them.
Although seldom, rhododendrons need Pruning to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches anytime. Prune Rhododendrons to reduce height after flowering in spring. Rhododendrons will grow back from old wood.
Rhododendrons are not usually prone to insects or diseases. They can develop a condition called chlorosis, which is characterized by yellowing of a leaf between dark green veins. Chlorosis can be caused by malnutrition caused by alkalinity of the soil, potassium deficiency, calcium deficiency, iron deficiency or magnesium deficiency. A combination of acidification with sulfur and iron supplements such as chelated iron or iron sulfate will usually treat this problem. Chlorosis can also be caused by nitrogen toxicity (usually caused by nitrate fertilizers) or other conditions that damage the roots such as root rot, severe cutting of the roots, root weevils or root death caused by extreme amounts of fertilizer.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Rose bushes come in a variety of forms, from climbing roses to miniature rose plants, blooming mainly in early summer and fall.. One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction:
Old roses—also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses”—are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and mild climates.
Modern hybrid roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance.
Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.
PLANTING
Preparing the Soil
Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral).
An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur.
Before you plant, be sure that you choose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt, All-America Rose Selections winners are good bets. Or check with your local nursery.
Ordering Plants
If you order roses from a mail-order company, order early, in January or February (March at the latest). They are usually shipped in the spring as bare roots when plants are fully dormant, well before they have leafed out. They’ll look like a bundle of sticks on arrival. Note that they are not dead—simply dormant.
If you are buying container-grown roses (vs. bare-root roses), plant them by May or early June for best results.
Planting Tips
Plant roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.
Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.
Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.
When you transplant your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.
Some old-timers recommend placing a 4-inch square of gypsum wallboard and a 16-penny nail in the hole to provide calcium and iron, both appreciated by roses.
CARE
Watering Roses
Diligently water your roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly.
Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.
Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.
Feeding Roses
Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen).
Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. See our fertilizer guide for more information.
In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.
Pruning Roses
Prune roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.
Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.
Late in the season, stop deadheading rugosas so that hips will form on the plants; these can be harvested and dried on screens, away from sunlight, then stored in an airtight container. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.
Winterizing Roses
Do not prune roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes.
Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter.
Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves.
Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw.
Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.
PESTS/DISEASES
Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:
Japanese Beetles
Aphids: To keep aphids away from roses, plant garlic and mint around the roses.
Black Spot: Rose plant leaves with black spots that eventually turn yellow have black spot, often caused by water splashing on leaves, especially in rainy weather. Leaves may require a protective fungicide coating, which would start in the summer before leaf spots started until first frost. Thoroughly clean up debris in the fall, and prune out all diseased canes.
Powdery Mildew: If leaves, buds, and stems are covered with a white powdery coating, this is a mildew disease; mildew develops rapidly during warm, humid weather. During new growth, prevent mildew by spraying or dusting canes and leaf surfaces with fungicide. Prevent mildew by pruning out all dead or diseased canes in the spring. Destroy all diseased parts during the growing season.
Botrytis Blight: If the rose’s flower buds droop, stay closed, or turn brown, it has this grey fungus. Prune off all infected blossoms and remove any dead material. Fungicide application may be necessary.
Spider Mites
Thrips
Rust
Stem Borers
Deer: Roses are a delectable tidbit, so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender will discourage browsers. You can also spread human or dog hair around the garden area or check our list of deer-resistant plants to protect your roses.
In general, avoid rose issues by buying disease-resistant varieties and cleaning up debris, weeds, fallen leaves and any diseased plant material as soon as possible.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Rose bushes come in a variety of forms, from climbing roses to miniature rose plants, blooming mainly in early summer and fall.. One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction:
Old roses—also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses”—are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and mild climates.
Modern hybrid roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance.
Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.
PLANTING
Preparing the Soil
Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral).
An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur.
Before you plant, be sure that you choose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt, All-America Rose Selections winners are good bets. Or check with your local nursery.
Ordering Plants
If you order roses from a mail-order company, order early, in January or February (March at the latest). They are usually shipped in the spring as bare roots when plants are fully dormant, well before they have leafed out. They’ll look like a bundle of sticks on arrival. Note that they are not dead—simply dormant.
If you are buying container-grown roses (vs. bare-root roses), plant them by May or early June for best results.
Planting Tips
Plant roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.
Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.
Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.
When you transplant your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.
Some old-timers recommend placing a 4-inch square of gypsum wallboard and a 16-penny nail in the hole to provide calcium and iron, both appreciated by roses.
CARE
Watering Roses
Diligently water your roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly.
Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.
Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.
Feeding Roses
Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen).
Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. See our fertilizer guide for more information.
In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.
Pruning Roses
Prune roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.
Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.
Late in the season, stop deadheading rugosas so that hips will form on the plants; these can be harvested and dried on screens, away from sunlight, then stored in an airtight container. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.
Winterizing Roses
Do not prune roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes.
Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter.
Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves.
Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw.
Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.
PESTS/DISEASES
Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:
Japanese Beetles
Aphids: To keep aphids away from roses, plant garlic and mint around the roses.
Black Spot: Rose plant leaves with black spots that eventually turn yellow have black spot, often caused by water splashing on leaves, especially in rainy weather. Leaves may require a protective fungicide coating, which would start in the summer before leaf spots started until first frost. Thoroughly clean up debris in the fall, and prune out all diseased canes.
Powdery Mildew: If leaves, buds, and stems are covered with a white powdery coating, this is a mildew disease; mildew develops rapidly during warm, humid weather. During new growth, prevent mildew by spraying or dusting canes and leaf surfaces with fungicide. Prevent mildew by pruning out all dead or diseased canes in the spring. Destroy all diseased parts during the growing season.
Botrytis Blight: If the rose’s flower buds droop, stay closed, or turn brown, it has this grey fungus. Prune off all infected blossoms and remove any dead material. Fungicide application may be necessary.
Spider Mites
Thrips
Rust
Stem Borers
Deer: Roses are a delectable tidbit, so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender will discourage browsers. You can also spread human or dog hair around the garden area or check our list of deer-resistant plants to protect your roses.
In general, avoid rose issues by buying disease-resistant varieties and cleaning up debris, weeds, fallen leaves and any diseased plant material as soon as possible.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Oregano is a perennial herb with rose-purple or white flowers and a taste reminiscent of thyme. Here’s how to grow oregano plants in your garden—plus, delicious recipes using oregano.
Oregano’s taste is zesty and strong and is commonly used in Italian dishes. It is a hardy plant and makes for a good ground cover.
PLANTING
Oregano loves the sun, so ensure that your placement has full, strong sun for strong flavor. Some folks plant later in the season for assured warm weather.
However, for a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Oregano can easily be started from seeds, though you can also use cuttings from an established plant.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil anytime after the last spring frost. The soil should be around 70ºF.
For thin plants, plant 8 to 10 inches apart. The plants will grow 1 to 2 feet tall and spread about 18 inches.
Oregano makes a good companion plant for any vegetable in the garden.
CARE
Allow oregano plants to grow to about 4 inches tall and then pinch or trim lightly to encourage a denser and bushier plant.
Regular trimming will not only cause the plant to branch again, but also avoid legginess.
Oregano doesn’t need quite as much water as most herbs. As the amount of watering depends on many variables, just water when the soil feels dry to the touch. Remember that it’s better to water thoroughly and less often.
If you have a container, water until the water comes out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
To ensure the best-quality plants, thin out plants that are 3 or 4 years old in the early spring. Oregano is self-seeding, so the plants will easily grow back.
You can divide the plants in late spring if you want to put one indoors.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root and stem rots
Aphids
Spider mites
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Oregano is a perennial herb with rose-purple or white flowers and a taste reminiscent of thyme. Here’s how to grow oregano plants in your garden—plus, delicious recipes using oregano.
Oregano’s taste is zesty and strong and is commonly used in Italian dishes. It is a hardy plant and makes for a good ground cover.
PLANTING
Oregano loves the sun, so ensure that your placement has full, strong sun for strong flavor. Some folks plant later in the season for assured warm weather.
However, for a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Oregano can easily be started from seeds, though you can also use cuttings from an established plant.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil anytime after the last spring frost. The soil should be around 70ºF.
For thin plants, plant 8 to 10 inches apart. The plants will grow 1 to 2 feet tall and spread about 18 inches.
Oregano makes a good companion plant for any vegetable in the garden.
CARE
Allow oregano plants to grow to about 4 inches tall and then pinch or trim lightly to encourage a denser and bushier plant.
Regular trimming will not only cause the plant to branch again, but also avoid legginess.
Oregano doesn’t need quite as much water as most herbs. As the amount of watering depends on many variables, just water when the soil feels dry to the touch. Remember that it’s better to water thoroughly and less often.
If you have a container, water until the water comes out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
To ensure the best-quality plants, thin out plants that are 3 or 4 years old in the early spring. Oregano is self-seeding, so the plants will easily grow back.
You can divide the plants in late spring if you want to put one indoors.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root and stem rots
Aphids
Spider mites
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
A rose is a woody perennial flowering plant of the genus Rosa, in the family Rosaceae, or the flower it bears. There are over a hundred species and thousands of cultivars. They form a group of plants that can be erect shrubs, climbing or trailing with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles. Flowers vary in size and shape and are usually large and showy, in colours ranging from white through yellows and reds. Most species are native to Asia, with smaller numbers native to Europe, North America, and northwestern Africa. Species, cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown for their beauty and often are fragrant. Roses have acquired cultural significance in many societies. Rose plants range in size from compact, miniature roses, to climbers that can reach seven meters in height. Different species hybridize easily, and this has been used in the development of the wide range of garden roses.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Materials
Spade, hand pruners, loppers, gloves, garden hose and watering wand or nozzle, Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers or Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix, Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food, garden rake, bucket, measuring tape.
How to Choose the Right Roses for Your Garden
Roses are not one size fits all—there are multiple types, from shrub roses to hybrid tea roses, climbing roses, and groundcover roses. The first step in growing roses is selecting the right rose bush or rose plant for your yard or garden. Roses, regardless of the type, grow best in full sun in well-drained soil. Putting the right plant in the right place goes a long way toward growing healthy plants. So which rose is right for you?
Shrub roses are great choices for landscape beds and foundation plantings next to the house. They tend to bloom a few times during the season. There are many new options that are pest and disease resistant. Groundcover roses add a bit of color to hot, dry, sunny areas. They’re drought-tolerant and beautiful when allowed to spill over a wall. Climbing roses are a little less cold hardy than shrub roses, so check the plant information carefully when purchasing. Hybrid teas are the classic ?bouquet? rose, and require the most hands-on care. They’ll reward you with gorgeous cut flowers, though.
How to Plant Roses
Once you’ve selected the sunny, well-drained spot for planting, it’s time to prepare the soil. The way you plant a rose depends on whether it is bareroot (usually sold with roots in a bag with some moist wood chips but no soil) or growing in a pot (container-grown) when you get it.
To plant bareroot roses:
1.Remove plants from their packaging and soak their roots in a bucket of tepid water for an hour.
2.Use a measuring tape to measure the length of the roots (from the tip of the roots to where the roots meet the stem).
3.Dig a hole that is two inches shallower than the length of the roots and twice as wide.
4.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole. If planting in a container, use with Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix. Either way, you are helping ensure that roses receive ample nutrition while establishing new roots in the garden.
5.Using the soil mixture (or potting mix for containers), build a mound in the planting hole that almost reaches to top of the hole.
6.Spread the roots evenly over the mound.
7.Fill in the hole completely with more of the soil mixture, covering the roots. Pack it firmly.
8.Spread a 2-inch layer of mulch on the surface of the planting hole, to help conserve moisture in the soil.
9.Water thoroughly.
To plant roses that come in containers:
1.Remove rose plant from the pot.
2.Use measuring tape to measure the height of the root ball.
3.Dig a planting hole that is two inches shallower than the height of the root ball, and twice as wide.
4.Place the plant in the planting hole. The top of the root ball should be about an inch above the edge of the hole. (Soil will settle over time, so you don’t want to plant the rose too deep.)
5.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole, and fill in around the shrub. Cover the top of the root ball with an inch of the soil mixture. If planting in a pot, use Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix.
6.Cover the surface of the planting hole with 2 inches of mulch, to help keep soil moist.
7.Water thoroughly.
How to Water Roses
Roses need well-drained soil to flourish, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need water. Regular watering is especially important as roses are establishing new roots in the landscape. Roses are fairly drought-tolerant after the first growing season.
For the first 2 months after you first plant a rosebush, give the plant a deep, thorough soaking 2-3 times per week with a hose. If you reach your finger into the soil and the top 2 inches are still moist, however, wait a few days.
For the remainder of the first growing season, water thoroughly a couple of times per week.. Once plants are established in the landscape, you will only need to water roses during drought conditions. If the leaves take on a greyish cast or being to curl, you’ll know the plants need water.
Whenever you water, void getting water on the leaves (an invitation to disease) by directly aiming the water stream at the roots of each plant.
How to Fertilize Roses
First, allow the plants to get settled in the garden. Then, after the first month, feed plants with Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food to help replace the nutrition your growing roses have taken up from the soil, so your plant will produce beautiful blooms. Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Roses
Prune roses in very early spring, while they are still dormant.
Prune to reduce overall size by cutting each branch back to an outward-facing bud. Roses can be cut back hard, but we don’t recommend removing more than one-third to one-half of the overall growth. Wear gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands, and use loppers or hand pruners. Do not shear roses.
Remove old, diseased, or dead wood by cutting the affected branches down to the bottom of the plant.
Promote airflow within the shrub by removing crossing or rubbing branches within the center of the shrub. Always cut back to an outward-facing bud. You can remove up to one-half of the growth from within the center of the shrub to promote air movement.
How to Control Rose Pests
Roses can be affected by a variety of fungal, bacterial, and insect issues. Providing the plants with the good care outlined above goes a long way toward preventing these problems, but it isn’t fail-safe. Treat problems with aphids, Japanese beetles, and other pests with Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-to-Use. For diseases such as black spot and rust, use Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect & Disease Control. Or, consult with your local cooperative extension service for the best course of treatment.
How to Grow Roses: Recap
Select the best type of rose for your garden location.
Prepare the soil and plant the rose bush according to instructions (bareroot or container-grown).
Water regularly while the plant is getting established, and in times of drought after the first growing season.
Feed roses regularly with Miracle-Gro® plant food.
Prune roses when dormant.
Watch out for pests and disease.
Spade, hand pruners, loppers, gloves, garden hose and watering wand or nozzle, Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers or Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix, Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food, garden rake, bucket, measuring tape.
How to Choose the Right Roses for Your Garden
Roses are not one size fits all—there are multiple types, from shrub roses to hybrid tea roses, climbing roses, and groundcover roses. The first step in growing roses is selecting the right rose bush or rose plant for your yard or garden. Roses, regardless of the type, grow best in full sun in well-drained soil. Putting the right plant in the right place goes a long way toward growing healthy plants. So which rose is right for you?
Shrub roses are great choices for landscape beds and foundation plantings next to the house. They tend to bloom a few times during the season. There are many new options that are pest and disease resistant. Groundcover roses add a bit of color to hot, dry, sunny areas. They’re drought-tolerant and beautiful when allowed to spill over a wall. Climbing roses are a little less cold hardy than shrub roses, so check the plant information carefully when purchasing. Hybrid teas are the classic ?bouquet? rose, and require the most hands-on care. They’ll reward you with gorgeous cut flowers, though.
How to Plant Roses
Once you’ve selected the sunny, well-drained spot for planting, it’s time to prepare the soil. The way you plant a rose depends on whether it is bareroot (usually sold with roots in a bag with some moist wood chips but no soil) or growing in a pot (container-grown) when you get it.
To plant bareroot roses:
1.Remove plants from their packaging and soak their roots in a bucket of tepid water for an hour.
2.Use a measuring tape to measure the length of the roots (from the tip of the roots to where the roots meet the stem).
3.Dig a hole that is two inches shallower than the length of the roots and twice as wide.
4.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole. If planting in a container, use with Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix. Either way, you are helping ensure that roses receive ample nutrition while establishing new roots in the garden.
5.Using the soil mixture (or potting mix for containers), build a mound in the planting hole that almost reaches to top of the hole.
6.Spread the roots evenly over the mound.
7.Fill in the hole completely with more of the soil mixture, covering the roots. Pack it firmly.
8.Spread a 2-inch layer of mulch on the surface of the planting hole, to help conserve moisture in the soil.
9.Water thoroughly.
To plant roses that come in containers:
1.Remove rose plant from the pot.
2.Use measuring tape to measure the height of the root ball.
3.Dig a planting hole that is two inches shallower than the height of the root ball, and twice as wide.
4.Place the plant in the planting hole. The top of the root ball should be about an inch above the edge of the hole. (Soil will settle over time, so you don’t want to plant the rose too deep.)
5.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole, and fill in around the shrub. Cover the top of the root ball with an inch of the soil mixture. If planting in a pot, use Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix.
6.Cover the surface of the planting hole with 2 inches of mulch, to help keep soil moist.
7.Water thoroughly.
How to Water Roses
Roses need well-drained soil to flourish, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need water. Regular watering is especially important as roses are establishing new roots in the landscape. Roses are fairly drought-tolerant after the first growing season.
For the first 2 months after you first plant a rosebush, give the plant a deep, thorough soaking 2-3 times per week with a hose. If you reach your finger into the soil and the top 2 inches are still moist, however, wait a few days.
For the remainder of the first growing season, water thoroughly a couple of times per week.. Once plants are established in the landscape, you will only need to water roses during drought conditions. If the leaves take on a greyish cast or being to curl, you’ll know the plants need water.
Whenever you water, void getting water on the leaves (an invitation to disease) by directly aiming the water stream at the roots of each plant.
How to Fertilize Roses
First, allow the plants to get settled in the garden. Then, after the first month, feed plants with Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food to help replace the nutrition your growing roses have taken up from the soil, so your plant will produce beautiful blooms. Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Roses
Prune roses in very early spring, while they are still dormant.
Prune to reduce overall size by cutting each branch back to an outward-facing bud. Roses can be cut back hard, but we don’t recommend removing more than one-third to one-half of the overall growth. Wear gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands, and use loppers or hand pruners. Do not shear roses.
Remove old, diseased, or dead wood by cutting the affected branches down to the bottom of the plant.
Promote airflow within the shrub by removing crossing or rubbing branches within the center of the shrub. Always cut back to an outward-facing bud. You can remove up to one-half of the growth from within the center of the shrub to promote air movement.
How to Control Rose Pests
Roses can be affected by a variety of fungal, bacterial, and insect issues. Providing the plants with the good care outlined above goes a long way toward preventing these problems, but it isn’t fail-safe. Treat problems with aphids, Japanese beetles, and other pests with Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-to-Use. For diseases such as black spot and rust, use Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect & Disease Control. Or, consult with your local cooperative extension service for the best course of treatment.
How to Grow Roses: Recap
Select the best type of rose for your garden location.
Prepare the soil and plant the rose bush according to instructions (bareroot or container-grown).
Water regularly while the plant is getting established, and in times of drought after the first growing season.
Feed roses regularly with Miracle-Gro® plant food.
Prune roses when dormant.
Watch out for pests and disease.
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文章
Colour_
2017年07月27日
量天尺(Hylocereus undatus (Haw.) Britt. et Rose)为仙人掌科量天尺属植物，附生性多浆肉质植物。茎粗壮，深绿色，具三棱。花大形，白色，有芳香，5至9月晚间开放。
原产于美洲热带和亚热带地区，其他热带和亚热带地区多有栽培。中国广东、广西、福建、海南等省区有天然分布。量天尺花朵硕大，且具芳香。宜庭植、盆栽，或作为篱垣植物。
生长习性
喜温暖、空气温暖。宜半阴，在直射强阳光下植株发黄。生长适温25~35℃。对低温敏感，在5℃以下的条件下，茎节容易腐烂。喜含腐殖质较多的肥沃壤土，盆栽用土可用等量的腐叶上、粗沙及腐熟厩肥配制。
一种热带雨林植物，适于高空气湿度、高温及半阴环境，生长适温25~35℃,越冬温度宜在13℃以上，喜含腐殖质丰富、排水良好的肥沃壤土。 宜半阴，在直射强阳光下植株发黄。生长适温25-35℃。
量天尺为什么会烂根
土壤不符合量天尺的生长需要。量天尺对土壤的要求虽然不严，一般的培养土就能良好地生长。但是有一点就是土壤要疏松，透气，排水性要好。否则就会导致量天尺根部呼吸不畅，或是盆内有积水，以致烂根。
施肥不当导致烂根。量天尺施肥要讲究技巧，用肥不能过浓，过量，以免造成肥害而导致烂根。一般以薄施勤肥为佳。冬季休眠期，要停止施肥。因为气温较低时根系生长处于缓慢状态，所施肥料不能被根系所吸收，反而会妨碍根的正常吸收，严重时便会烂根。
浇水过多导致烂根。当量天尺浇水过多时，盆内过于湿润，根部呼吸不畅，容易导致量天尺烂根。
量天尺烂根怎么办
量天尺烂根时必须及时将腐烂的部分削掉，留下健康的部分，重新扦插。将伤口消毒，然后置于阴凉通风处晾晒2～3天，再用消毒过的净沙和花盆扦插。
将量天尺插入沙土里，浇一次透水，此后便要干透浇透，注意不能淋雨。
量天尺重新扦插后，要求放在通风处并接受充分光照。温度保持在25～30℃即可，不要施肥。约在30天至40天，即可长出新的根系。
在平时要注意做好量天尺的日常养护，合理浇水施肥，平时要注意多观察量天尺的生长状况，观察有没有烂根或虫害的情况，及时发现病变并作出应对措施。
原产于美洲热带和亚热带地区，其他热带和亚热带地区多有栽培。中国广东、广西、福建、海南等省区有天然分布。量天尺花朵硕大，且具芳香。宜庭植、盆栽，或作为篱垣植物。
生长习性
喜温暖、空气温暖。宜半阴，在直射强阳光下植株发黄。生长适温25~35℃。对低温敏感，在5℃以下的条件下，茎节容易腐烂。喜含腐殖质较多的肥沃壤土，盆栽用土可用等量的腐叶上、粗沙及腐熟厩肥配制。
一种热带雨林植物，适于高空气湿度、高温及半阴环境，生长适温25~35℃,越冬温度宜在13℃以上，喜含腐殖质丰富、排水良好的肥沃壤土。 宜半阴，在直射强阳光下植株发黄。生长适温25-35℃。
量天尺为什么会烂根
土壤不符合量天尺的生长需要。量天尺对土壤的要求虽然不严，一般的培养土就能良好地生长。但是有一点就是土壤要疏松，透气，排水性要好。否则就会导致量天尺根部呼吸不畅，或是盆内有积水，以致烂根。
施肥不当导致烂根。量天尺施肥要讲究技巧，用肥不能过浓，过量，以免造成肥害而导致烂根。一般以薄施勤肥为佳。冬季休眠期，要停止施肥。因为气温较低时根系生长处于缓慢状态，所施肥料不能被根系所吸收，反而会妨碍根的正常吸收，严重时便会烂根。
浇水过多导致烂根。当量天尺浇水过多时，盆内过于湿润，根部呼吸不畅，容易导致量天尺烂根。
量天尺烂根怎么办
量天尺烂根时必须及时将腐烂的部分削掉，留下健康的部分，重新扦插。将伤口消毒，然后置于阴凉通风处晾晒2～3天，再用消毒过的净沙和花盆扦插。
将量天尺插入沙土里，浇一次透水，此后便要干透浇透，注意不能淋雨。
量天尺重新扦插后，要求放在通风处并接受充分光照。温度保持在25～30℃即可，不要施肥。约在30天至40天，即可长出新的根系。
在平时要注意做好量天尺的日常养护，合理浇水施肥，平时要注意多观察量天尺的生长状况，观察有没有烂根或虫害的情况，及时发现病变并作出应对措施。
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月01日
Morphological characteristics
Perennial weak creeping herb with all pubescent except corolla. Stolons slender, spreading, long to 1 m, internodes short, 1.5-4 cm long, nodes slightly dilated, lower fibrous, adventitious roots. Rose leaf was born in a single day, 2.5-6 cm long, with long handle, a diameter of about 1.2 mm, with stolons of coarse or slightly coarse; leaves ovate or oblong outline ovate, papery, 2-5 cm long, usually pinnatipartite to several ribs, few lobed and large teeth, lobes 5-9 gold, obovate, above middle or upper teeth abruptly mucronate; flowers solitary in axils of leaves, petioles and pedicels slender, subequal, fruit curl; bracts small, subulate triangular; calyx campanulate, membranous, 5-7 mm long, 5 - lobed to middle, lobes ovate to oblong; corolla white, 7-12 mm long, funnel-shaped corolla tube length is about half as long as corolla or slightly shorter, from within the throat to near base dense cell sheets barbate, lobes 5, oblong to spatulate; stamens 4, inserted at corolla throat, anthers narrowly sagittate, room 2, top combine; disk The developed package cup, ovary 2/3, ovary ovate, top beard or nearly glabrous, slightly shorter than corolla style, stigma shallowly 2 - lobed. The capsule is spherical, 4-5 mm in diam., wrapped in large seeds in persistent calyx; small, oblate, ca. 1.5 mm in diam., seed coat has glue mucilage, densely sub peltate hair.
Waterleaf cultural significance
in Japanese, called glazed Tang grass. Its language is that I forgive you, patriotism, poor. And its flower is a lie.
Distribution
distribution is quite popular in India, Bhutan, Philippines, Japan and other countries.
Perennial weak creeping herb with all pubescent except corolla. Stolons slender, spreading, long to 1 m, internodes short, 1.5-4 cm long, nodes slightly dilated, lower fibrous, adventitious roots. Rose leaf was born in a single day, 2.5-6 cm long, with long handle, a diameter of about 1.2 mm, with stolons of coarse or slightly coarse; leaves ovate or oblong outline ovate, papery, 2-5 cm long, usually pinnatipartite to several ribs, few lobed and large teeth, lobes 5-9 gold, obovate, above middle or upper teeth abruptly mucronate; flowers solitary in axils of leaves, petioles and pedicels slender, subequal, fruit curl; bracts small, subulate triangular; calyx campanulate, membranous, 5-7 mm long, 5 - lobed to middle, lobes ovate to oblong; corolla white, 7-12 mm long, funnel-shaped corolla tube length is about half as long as corolla or slightly shorter, from within the throat to near base dense cell sheets barbate, lobes 5, oblong to spatulate; stamens 4, inserted at corolla throat, anthers narrowly sagittate, room 2, top combine; disk The developed package cup, ovary 2/3, ovary ovate, top beard or nearly glabrous, slightly shorter than corolla style, stigma shallowly 2 - lobed. The capsule is spherical, 4-5 mm in diam., wrapped in large seeds in persistent calyx; small, oblate, ca. 1.5 mm in diam., seed coat has glue mucilage, densely sub peltate hair.
Waterleaf cultural significance
in Japanese, called glazed Tang grass. Its language is that I forgive you, patriotism, poor. And its flower is a lie.
Distribution
distribution is quite popular in India, Bhutan, Philippines, Japan and other countries.
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