文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Pruning, fertilizing and winterizing are basic rose gardening chores that need to be followed to keep rose bushes healthy and thriving year after year. Shorter days and colder autumn temperatures are signs that rosarians look to when beginning to prepare their rose bushes for the freezing winter days ahead. With proper protection, however, roses can withstand extremely low subfreezing temperatures and still bloom hardily only a few months later.
Cold Hardiness
A rose bush's inherent hardiness contributes to its ability to withstand subfreezing temperatures. For example, old garden rose varieties can tolerate extremely cold winters, whereas more modern hybrid tea roses need considerable winter protection to survive the cold undamaged. Examples of hardy rose varieties include alba maxima, Maiden's Blush and Koenigen von Daenemark. Acclimation, midwinter hardiness and deacclimation also contribute to a rose's ability to survive freezing cold. Shorter days and decreasing temperatures trigger physiological and biochemical cues in rose bushes that prepare them for winter dormancy. Certain rose cultivars have maximum hardiness levels that allow them to withstand USDA zone 4a and 4b low temperatures of minus 20 to minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Early Preparation
To begin to prepare roses for their winter dormancy, discontinue fertilizing in late summer or early fall, or more specifically, a minimum of one month before your local first-frost date. Continuing to fertilize rose bushes in autumn promotes new growth at a time when the objective is the opposite. Also refrain from deheading or cutting blooms, and allow the development of rose hips, which encourages the plant to harden for winter. Lastly, to reduce risk of disease the following year, remove all leaf debris from around the base of the bush.
Complete Winterization
Despite the fact that roses can freeze at temperatures below 32 F, only basic winter protection is needed in areas where subfreezing temperatures stay above 20 F. The reason for this is that proper rose winterization keeps the plants cold and frozen throughout winter. The severe damaging effects come not specifically from the cold but rather alternating freezing and thawing. Therefore, do not cover rose bushes until at least one hard frost occurs. Then remove all dropped leaves and cover the plant with a soil and compost mix approximately 10 to 12 inches deep. After this mound freezes, add further insulation, such as evergreen boughs or straw.
Other Considerations
In areas with severe winters, like Minnesota and Vermont, additional protection is needed for roses to survive. One popular winterization method uses plastic foam rose cones that fit over bushes. Add a couple ventilation holes, however, to keep air from heating up inside. Another winterization method to consider in Northern regions is the "Minnesota Tip," in which the bush is partially uprooted, pushed over into a trench and covered with soil. Healthy roses that are properly tended year-round have greater chance of surviving extremely low subfreezing temperatures than those suffering from pests or disease.
Cold Hardiness
A rose bush's inherent hardiness contributes to its ability to withstand subfreezing temperatures. For example, old garden rose varieties can tolerate extremely cold winters, whereas more modern hybrid tea roses need considerable winter protection to survive the cold undamaged. Examples of hardy rose varieties include alba maxima, Maiden's Blush and Koenigen von Daenemark. Acclimation, midwinter hardiness and deacclimation also contribute to a rose's ability to survive freezing cold. Shorter days and decreasing temperatures trigger physiological and biochemical cues in rose bushes that prepare them for winter dormancy. Certain rose cultivars have maximum hardiness levels that allow them to withstand USDA zone 4a and 4b low temperatures of minus 20 to minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Early Preparation
To begin to prepare roses for their winter dormancy, discontinue fertilizing in late summer or early fall, or more specifically, a minimum of one month before your local first-frost date. Continuing to fertilize rose bushes in autumn promotes new growth at a time when the objective is the opposite. Also refrain from deheading or cutting blooms, and allow the development of rose hips, which encourages the plant to harden for winter. Lastly, to reduce risk of disease the following year, remove all leaf debris from around the base of the bush.
Complete Winterization
Despite the fact that roses can freeze at temperatures below 32 F, only basic winter protection is needed in areas where subfreezing temperatures stay above 20 F. The reason for this is that proper rose winterization keeps the plants cold and frozen throughout winter. The severe damaging effects come not specifically from the cold but rather alternating freezing and thawing. Therefore, do not cover rose bushes until at least one hard frost occurs. Then remove all dropped leaves and cover the plant with a soil and compost mix approximately 10 to 12 inches deep. After this mound freezes, add further insulation, such as evergreen boughs or straw.
Other Considerations
In areas with severe winters, like Minnesota and Vermont, additional protection is needed for roses to survive. One popular winterization method uses plastic foam rose cones that fit over bushes. Add a couple ventilation holes, however, to keep air from heating up inside. Another winterization method to consider in Northern regions is the "Minnesota Tip," in which the bush is partially uprooted, pushed over into a trench and covered with soil. Healthy roses that are properly tended year-round have greater chance of surviving extremely low subfreezing temperatures than those suffering from pests or disease.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses are some of the most popular flowers for home gardeners. Rose bushes grow and adapt to many types of soils. In fertile soils, rose bushes grow quickly and vigorously. Different varieties of rose bushes grow to different heights.
Bushes
Bush type roses include hybrid tea roses, floribundas and grandifloras. These varieties grow between 2 and 6 feet tall. Miniature roses are bush type roses as well, but they only reach 6 to 24 inches in height.
Shrubs
Shrub roses reach 3 to 10 feet in height. These varieties of roses include wild roses, hybrid rugosa roses and hybrid musk roses. Shrub roses are commonly used for hedges, ground covers and screens.
Climbing
Climbing roses produce canes that are 15 to 20 feet long and need support to stay upright. Climbing roses include ramblers, climbing hybrid tea roses and trailing roses. These roses are commonly trained to grow on fences and arbors. Do not prune climbing roses back until after the flowering is done for the season.
Bushes
Bush type roses include hybrid tea roses, floribundas and grandifloras. These varieties grow between 2 and 6 feet tall. Miniature roses are bush type roses as well, but they only reach 6 to 24 inches in height.
Shrubs
Shrub roses reach 3 to 10 feet in height. These varieties of roses include wild roses, hybrid rugosa roses and hybrid musk roses. Shrub roses are commonly used for hedges, ground covers and screens.
Climbing
Climbing roses produce canes that are 15 to 20 feet long and need support to stay upright. Climbing roses include ramblers, climbing hybrid tea roses and trailing roses. These roses are commonly trained to grow on fences and arbors. Do not prune climbing roses back until after the flowering is done for the season.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
All roses, even the beautiful and hardy Knock Out, can sometimes have problems. While most of these issues will not kill the plant, they can cause leaf spots, yellowing, wilting and blight that may make it look like the rose is dying.
Pests and Disease
Black spot disease and mildew can still cause problems for Knock Out roses. In addition, pests like aphids, sawfly larvae and spider mites will often feed on Knock Outs. If left unchecked, these diseases and pests can weaken the plant and make it susceptible to disease and extremes of cold and heat.
Hydration
Roses do not like to have wet feet but still need adequate water. A good rule of thumb is to water 1 inch per week, 2 inches in arid climates or drought conditions. Mulch around the base of the rose to hold moisture.
Pruning
Knock Out roses should be pruned hard in the spring. Remove all crossing tips and branches, and thin the rose to provide adequate airflow.
Hardiness Zone Issues
Knock Out roses are considered to be hardy through U.S. Department of Agriculture Zone 5, but if you live in an area close to the dividing line between two zones, your roses may not tolerate harsher weather. Consider replacing your Knock Out with a rose more suited for your location.
Pests and Disease
Black spot disease and mildew can still cause problems for Knock Out roses. In addition, pests like aphids, sawfly larvae and spider mites will often feed on Knock Outs. If left unchecked, these diseases and pests can weaken the plant and make it susceptible to disease and extremes of cold and heat.
Hydration
Roses do not like to have wet feet but still need adequate water. A good rule of thumb is to water 1 inch per week, 2 inches in arid climates or drought conditions. Mulch around the base of the rose to hold moisture.
Pruning
Knock Out roses should be pruned hard in the spring. Remove all crossing tips and branches, and thin the rose to provide adequate airflow.
Hardiness Zone Issues
Knock Out roses are considered to be hardy through U.S. Department of Agriculture Zone 5, but if you live in an area close to the dividing line between two zones, your roses may not tolerate harsher weather. Consider replacing your Knock Out with a rose more suited for your location.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The Knock Out® rose hybrids (Rosa "Knock Out®") began with "Radrazz" (Rosa 'Radrazz'), a cherry-red blooming, drought-tolerant rose with excellent disease resistance. More hybrids with different flower colors soon followed. While all Knock Out® roses are more resilient than most other types of roses, they still require supplemental irrigation when it does not rain.
Cultivars and Hardiness
Knock Out® roses are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 11, although this varies slightly depending on cultivar. Fresh loamy soil should be piled up over the crowns of all Knock Out® roses to a depth of 10 to 12 inches for winter protection in USDA zones 4, 5 and 6.
'Radcon' (Rosa 'Radcon,' USDA zones 5 to 10) blooms in pink, 'Radcor' or rainbow (Rosa 'Radcor,' USDA zones 5 to 11) has dark coral pink flowers with yellow to pale coral centers and 'Radsunny' or sunny (Rosa 'Radsunny,' USDA zones 4 to 11) produces flowers that are gold-yellow in bud but change to bright yellow when they open and fade to cream-yellow. These Knock Out® roses all have single-form flowers with five to seven petals.
'Radtko' or double Knock Out® (Rosa 'Radtko,' USDA zones 4 to 10) produces cherry red flowers with 18 to 24 petals per flower. 'Radtkopink' or pink double Knock Out® (Rosa 'Radtkopink,' USDA zones 5 to 11) produces bubble-gum pink flowers with 18 to 24 petals each.
Knock Out® roses are shrub roses that grow to a height and width of 3 to 4 feet in cold-winter climates but can mature to 6 feet by 6 feet or more in mild climates.
When to Water
In mild-winter climates above USDA zone 8b, Knock Out® roses bloom all year round. This means they must be watered all year round in southern regions with warm, dry winters.
Knock Out® roses bloom from spring to first frost in cold-winter climates. In northern regions where temperatures drop below freezing in the winter, begin providing supplemental water in the spring when the ground warms and they begin growing, unless they are getting 2 inches of water per week from rain. Continue to water throughout the spring, summer and fall until the weather gets cold and they start dropping their leaves.
Amount and Frequency
Roses need to be watered more often when they are planted in sandy, fast-draining soil than when they are planted in loamy or clay soil that drains more slowly.
Newly planted Knock Out® roses need to be watered as often as necessary to keep the soil uniformly moist for the first one to two months until they get established. Give them 3 gallons of water, then check the top inch of soil every few days. When it begins to dry, give them another 3 gallons.
Give established Knock Out® roses planted in fast-draining soil 6 gallons or 2 inches of water each week when temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They may not need to be watered that often in slower-draining soil. Always check the soil before watering. If the top 2 inches is still wet, wait a few more days -- as a general rule, water when the top 3 inches of soil becomes dry. As temperatures rise to between 80 and 90 degrees Ft, Knock Out® roses may need as much as 9 to 12 gallons or 3 to 4 inches of water each week. Even more may be needed when temperatures exceed 90 degrees F.
How to Water
Water Knock Out® roses from below the foliage with a watering can, garden hose or soaker hose.Even though they are resistant to black spot and powdery mildew, it is better to keep the foliage as dry as possible.
Distribute the water evenly over the soil from 2 inches away from the stems and extending out about 1 foot beyond the drip line** or outer edge of the branches. Always water in the morning** so foliage will dry throughout the day if it gets wet, and the moisture will be available to the shrub in the heat of the day.
When using a soaker hose, set a 1-inch deep tuna or cat food can beneath the hose where water will drip into it to measure how much water is being delivered to the shrubs.
Spread a 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the soil around Knock Out® roses to help conserve moisture, keep the roots cool and reduce weeds. Pull the mulch a few inches away from the stems to prevent injury and disease that can result from the mulch keeping them too wet.
Cultivars and Hardiness
Knock Out® roses are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 11, although this varies slightly depending on cultivar. Fresh loamy soil should be piled up over the crowns of all Knock Out® roses to a depth of 10 to 12 inches for winter protection in USDA zones 4, 5 and 6.
'Radcon' (Rosa 'Radcon,' USDA zones 5 to 10) blooms in pink, 'Radcor' or rainbow (Rosa 'Radcor,' USDA zones 5 to 11) has dark coral pink flowers with yellow to pale coral centers and 'Radsunny' or sunny (Rosa 'Radsunny,' USDA zones 4 to 11) produces flowers that are gold-yellow in bud but change to bright yellow when they open and fade to cream-yellow. These Knock Out® roses all have single-form flowers with five to seven petals.
'Radtko' or double Knock Out® (Rosa 'Radtko,' USDA zones 4 to 10) produces cherry red flowers with 18 to 24 petals per flower. 'Radtkopink' or pink double Knock Out® (Rosa 'Radtkopink,' USDA zones 5 to 11) produces bubble-gum pink flowers with 18 to 24 petals each.
Knock Out® roses are shrub roses that grow to a height and width of 3 to 4 feet in cold-winter climates but can mature to 6 feet by 6 feet or more in mild climates.
When to Water
In mild-winter climates above USDA zone 8b, Knock Out® roses bloom all year round. This means they must be watered all year round in southern regions with warm, dry winters.
Knock Out® roses bloom from spring to first frost in cold-winter climates. In northern regions where temperatures drop below freezing in the winter, begin providing supplemental water in the spring when the ground warms and they begin growing, unless they are getting 2 inches of water per week from rain. Continue to water throughout the spring, summer and fall until the weather gets cold and they start dropping their leaves.
Amount and Frequency
Roses need to be watered more often when they are planted in sandy, fast-draining soil than when they are planted in loamy or clay soil that drains more slowly.
Newly planted Knock Out® roses need to be watered as often as necessary to keep the soil uniformly moist for the first one to two months until they get established. Give them 3 gallons of water, then check the top inch of soil every few days. When it begins to dry, give them another 3 gallons.
Give established Knock Out® roses planted in fast-draining soil 6 gallons or 2 inches of water each week when temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They may not need to be watered that often in slower-draining soil. Always check the soil before watering. If the top 2 inches is still wet, wait a few more days -- as a general rule, water when the top 3 inches of soil becomes dry. As temperatures rise to between 80 and 90 degrees Ft, Knock Out® roses may need as much as 9 to 12 gallons or 3 to 4 inches of water each week. Even more may be needed when temperatures exceed 90 degrees F.
How to Water
Water Knock Out® roses from below the foliage with a watering can, garden hose or soaker hose.Even though they are resistant to black spot and powdery mildew, it is better to keep the foliage as dry as possible.
Distribute the water evenly over the soil from 2 inches away from the stems and extending out about 1 foot beyond the drip line** or outer edge of the branches. Always water in the morning** so foliage will dry throughout the day if it gets wet, and the moisture will be available to the shrub in the heat of the day.
When using a soaker hose, set a 1-inch deep tuna or cat food can beneath the hose where water will drip into it to measure how much water is being delivered to the shrubs.
Spread a 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch over the soil around Knock Out® roses to help conserve moisture, keep the roots cool and reduce weeds. Pull the mulch a few inches away from the stems to prevent injury and disease that can result from the mulch keeping them too wet.
0
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses (Rosa spp.) produce showy, fragrant blooms that make them popular not only with gardeners, but also with various insect pests that enjoy feeding on the foliage. One common pest is the rose slug, which will feed on any rose species, including the Carolina rose (Rosa carolina) and the Knock Out rose (Rosa Radrazz), both of which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. You can choose from various control methods to kill rose slugs and keep your rose plants looking fabulous and smelling great.
About Rose Slugs
Despite their name, rose slugs aren't actually slugs. Instead, they are the larvae of rose sawflies, non-stinging, flying insects that belong to the wasp family (Tenthredinidae). Three species commonly appear on rose plants: the rose slug (Endelomyia aethiops), the curled rose slug sawfly (Allantus cinctus) and the bristly rose slug (Cladius difformis). Adult sawflies have yellowish-green bodies that reach 1/4 to 3/4 inch in length, while the larvae have 1/2- to 3/4-inch long, yellow-green bodies, yellow to yellowish-orange heads and several caterpillar-like legs. Although the three species look similar when it comes to size and coloring, bristly rose slugs have wiry hairs covering their bodies, while curled rose slug sawflies curl up when resting. All three rose slug species inflict similar damage and require the same treatment methods.
Young rose slugs feed on soft leaf tissue, leaving just veins and a papery, see-through surface material behind. Mature rose slugs frequently chew big holes in the foliage. Although mild infestations might make plants look unattractive, the roses suffer no lasting damage. Severe infestations not only make leaves curl and turn brown, but can also cause severe defoliation, which leaves plants weak and vulnerable to diseases and other insect pests.
Nonchemical Control Measures
If you detect rose slug problems early on, you can often get rid of the pests using simple nonchemical control measures. Start inspecting your rose plants about mid-spring and continue throughout the entire growing season. Search the tops and undersides of leaves for the small slugs, picking off the pests you find and dropping them into a pail of soapy water. Pruning off infested foliage and discarding it in a covered garbage can destroys sawfly larvae, as does spraying your plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose.
Chemical Treatments
Consider treating a severe rose slug infestation with an insecticidal soap solution. This less-toxic option desiccates and kills the pests without harming people, pets or most beneficial insects, with the exception of predatory mites. As always, carefully read and follow the instructions on the manufacturer's label. A typical mix is 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with every 1 quart of water. Use a handheld trigger sprayer or small garden sprayer to completely cover all foliage, including the tops and undersides of leaves, as well as the soil beneath the infested rose plant. Insecticidal soaps have no residual action, so the solution must make direct contact with rose slugs in order to be effective. Repeat treatment every seven to 14 days until you spot no more rose sawfly larvae on your plants.
Staying Safe
Although nontoxic to humans, insecticidal soap can still cause eye and skin irritation on contact. Reduce the risk of exposure by wearing goggles, long sleeves, pants, waterproof gloves, a face mask and shoes with socks whenever mixing or spraying a soap solution. Avoid spraying insecticidal soap mixtures on fully sunny days or you risk burning the leaves. Spraying your roses in the early morning or around dusk helps prevent foliage injury while allowing you to avoid harming honeybees and other pollinating insects.
About Rose Slugs
Despite their name, rose slugs aren't actually slugs. Instead, they are the larvae of rose sawflies, non-stinging, flying insects that belong to the wasp family (Tenthredinidae). Three species commonly appear on rose plants: the rose slug (Endelomyia aethiops), the curled rose slug sawfly (Allantus cinctus) and the bristly rose slug (Cladius difformis). Adult sawflies have yellowish-green bodies that reach 1/4 to 3/4 inch in length, while the larvae have 1/2- to 3/4-inch long, yellow-green bodies, yellow to yellowish-orange heads and several caterpillar-like legs. Although the three species look similar when it comes to size and coloring, bristly rose slugs have wiry hairs covering their bodies, while curled rose slug sawflies curl up when resting. All three rose slug species inflict similar damage and require the same treatment methods.
Young rose slugs feed on soft leaf tissue, leaving just veins and a papery, see-through surface material behind. Mature rose slugs frequently chew big holes in the foliage. Although mild infestations might make plants look unattractive, the roses suffer no lasting damage. Severe infestations not only make leaves curl and turn brown, but can also cause severe defoliation, which leaves plants weak and vulnerable to diseases and other insect pests.
Nonchemical Control Measures
If you detect rose slug problems early on, you can often get rid of the pests using simple nonchemical control measures. Start inspecting your rose plants about mid-spring and continue throughout the entire growing season. Search the tops and undersides of leaves for the small slugs, picking off the pests you find and dropping them into a pail of soapy water. Pruning off infested foliage and discarding it in a covered garbage can destroys sawfly larvae, as does spraying your plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose.
Chemical Treatments
Consider treating a severe rose slug infestation with an insecticidal soap solution. This less-toxic option desiccates and kills the pests without harming people, pets or most beneficial insects, with the exception of predatory mites. As always, carefully read and follow the instructions on the manufacturer's label. A typical mix is 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with every 1 quart of water. Use a handheld trigger sprayer or small garden sprayer to completely cover all foliage, including the tops and undersides of leaves, as well as the soil beneath the infested rose plant. Insecticidal soaps have no residual action, so the solution must make direct contact with rose slugs in order to be effective. Repeat treatment every seven to 14 days until you spot no more rose sawfly larvae on your plants.
Staying Safe
Although nontoxic to humans, insecticidal soap can still cause eye and skin irritation on contact. Reduce the risk of exposure by wearing goggles, long sleeves, pants, waterproof gloves, a face mask and shoes with socks whenever mixing or spraying a soap solution. Avoid spraying insecticidal soap mixtures on fully sunny days or you risk burning the leaves. Spraying your roses in the early morning or around dusk helps prevent foliage injury while allowing you to avoid harming honeybees and other pollinating insects.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Companion planting helps protect roses against insect pests by masking the scent of roses and steering intruders to other hosts or directing them out of the garden entirely. Certain herbs make ideal companions for the rose garden by inviting beneficial insects into the landscape. Companion planting also creates a garden that invites compliments through skillful use of texture and color, fashioning an ideal year-round retreat from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
Protect Against Rose Beetles
Italian parsley( Vaccinium neapolitanum), Okayama Prefecture, Honshu, Japan
credit: YOSHIHARU NUGA/a.collectionRF/amana images/Getty Images
plant parsley to protect against pests
When planted with roses, parsley protects against the Fuller rose beetle. Rose beetle adults feed on the foliage of roses. The larvae feed on the rose's roots, chewing off the root hairs when young and girdling lateral roots as they grow. The damage done by the rose beetle causes death of the plant during severe drought and makes the rose especially susceptible to fungal infestation. The Fuller rose beetle, found in 30 states and Mexico, also attacks citrus, strawberries, beans, peaches, rhubarb and potatoes.
Protect Against Aphids
feverfew is a member of the sunflower family
Aphids feed on the sap secreted by roses, attacking the undersides of leaves. A severe infestation causes leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Interplanting feverfew may ward off these soft-bodied invaders. Feverfew is a member of the sunflower family native to Europe. This short perennial produces yellow flowers reminiscent of daisies, which bloom from July to October and exude a strong, bitter odor that repels aphids. Although an aphid attack makes the rose's appearance less than desirable, the good news is the aphid infestation does not do serious harm to established rose bushes.
Roses with Dwarf Conifers
roses stand out against evergreens
When companion planting for visual interest alone, look to dwarf conifers. Roses planted in front of dwarf conifers complement them by bestowing striking color and an interesting contrast in overall appearance against the background created by the evergreen plants. Plant a shrub rose like Carefree Beauty in front of a dwarf blue spruce. This medium-pink rose is hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 4 to zone 9, blooms from June through frost and produces large, bright orange hips in winter.
Considerations
marigolds also repel pests
Marigolds have long been used to repel garden pests. Plant a double row of these fragrant annuals around the rose garden. The marigold's strong odor confuses pests and a substance given off by their root system drives back nematodes. Invite beneficial insects like ladybugs and praying mantis by planting savory, chamomile and thyme. Roses require a lot of water, well-drained soil, sun and timely fertilization. When choosing companion plants, look for those that do not compete with roses for these essentials. Also look for plants with harmonizing colors and low-growth habits that disguise the rose's lower, bare branches. Steer clear of plants, such as nasturtiums, that attract aphids. Unfortunately, no companion plants have been found that protect roses from Japanese beetles. According to a study published in the "Journal of Economic Entomology," planting aromatic herbs such as garlic and fennel among roses may lead to an increase in Japanese beetle damage.
Protect Against Rose Beetles
Italian parsley( Vaccinium neapolitanum), Okayama Prefecture, Honshu, Japan
credit: YOSHIHARU NUGA/a.collectionRF/amana images/Getty Images
plant parsley to protect against pests
When planted with roses, parsley protects against the Fuller rose beetle. Rose beetle adults feed on the foliage of roses. The larvae feed on the rose's roots, chewing off the root hairs when young and girdling lateral roots as they grow. The damage done by the rose beetle causes death of the plant during severe drought and makes the rose especially susceptible to fungal infestation. The Fuller rose beetle, found in 30 states and Mexico, also attacks citrus, strawberries, beans, peaches, rhubarb and potatoes.
Protect Against Aphids
feverfew is a member of the sunflower family
Aphids feed on the sap secreted by roses, attacking the undersides of leaves. A severe infestation causes leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Interplanting feverfew may ward off these soft-bodied invaders. Feverfew is a member of the sunflower family native to Europe. This short perennial produces yellow flowers reminiscent of daisies, which bloom from July to October and exude a strong, bitter odor that repels aphids. Although an aphid attack makes the rose's appearance less than desirable, the good news is the aphid infestation does not do serious harm to established rose bushes.
Roses with Dwarf Conifers
roses stand out against evergreens
When companion planting for visual interest alone, look to dwarf conifers. Roses planted in front of dwarf conifers complement them by bestowing striking color and an interesting contrast in overall appearance against the background created by the evergreen plants. Plant a shrub rose like Carefree Beauty in front of a dwarf blue spruce. This medium-pink rose is hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 4 to zone 9, blooms from June through frost and produces large, bright orange hips in winter.
Considerations
marigolds also repel pests
Marigolds have long been used to repel garden pests. Plant a double row of these fragrant annuals around the rose garden. The marigold's strong odor confuses pests and a substance given off by their root system drives back nematodes. Invite beneficial insects like ladybugs and praying mantis by planting savory, chamomile and thyme. Roses require a lot of water, well-drained soil, sun and timely fertilization. When choosing companion plants, look for those that do not compete with roses for these essentials. Also look for plants with harmonizing colors and low-growth habits that disguise the rose's lower, bare branches. Steer clear of plants, such as nasturtiums, that attract aphids. Unfortunately, no companion plants have been found that protect roses from Japanese beetles. According to a study published in the "Journal of Economic Entomology," planting aromatic herbs such as garlic and fennel among roses may lead to an increase in Japanese beetle damage.
1
2
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses have a long history of human cultivation. Evidence suggests the ancient Chinese grew roses as far back as 3,000 B.C. People in the Roman Empire used the rose as a medical herb. During the 1600s, roses were even used as legal currency and in bartering, according to the University of Illinois Extension.
Roses
Roses, the plants of the genus rosa, reproduce by generating seeds contained in a bowl-shaped fruit called a rose hip. The rose hip actually holds a small shell called an anchene. The anchene, commonly mistaken for the seed itself, envelops a single rose seed. Roses therefore fall under the angiosperm classification, since they protect their seeds within a fruit, or in this case, two fruits.
Angiosperms
One of the primary ways scientists by which classify plants is how the plant reproduces itself. Plants that reproduce themselves by creating seeds that grow inside of an ovule are called angiosperms. The ovule typically develops into a fruit that protects the seed from harm. The majority of the world's plant life, an estimated 80 percent of all the known species, reproduce from seeds using this method. Angiosperms come in an enormous variety of shapes and sizes, from flowering plants less than 1 inch long to trees that grow to 100 feet high.
Gymnosperms
Gymnosperms, in contrast to angiosperms, produce seeds that are not enclosed inside a fruit. These are called "naked seeds" because they have little protection from the elements. Instead of a fruit, gymnosperms typically produce cones. A cone carries a seed between its scales, and as it matures, the scales expand, releasing the seed. Gymnosperms are not as diverse as angiosperms, and trees account for the majority of the group.
Other Methods
Although roses belong to the angiosperm group and reproduce naturally by means of seeds, human beings have cultivated the plants for many years and reproduce them using other methods. Most modern garden roses are hybrids created by grafting cuttings onto rootstock. You can also plant cuttings of some types of roses without grafting them. The best chance for success comes when taking a cutting of a stem's tip just as the hip begins to form, advises Texas A&M University.
Roses
Roses, the plants of the genus rosa, reproduce by generating seeds contained in a bowl-shaped fruit called a rose hip. The rose hip actually holds a small shell called an anchene. The anchene, commonly mistaken for the seed itself, envelops a single rose seed. Roses therefore fall under the angiosperm classification, since they protect their seeds within a fruit, or in this case, two fruits.
Angiosperms
One of the primary ways scientists by which classify plants is how the plant reproduces itself. Plants that reproduce themselves by creating seeds that grow inside of an ovule are called angiosperms. The ovule typically develops into a fruit that protects the seed from harm. The majority of the world's plant life, an estimated 80 percent of all the known species, reproduce from seeds using this method. Angiosperms come in an enormous variety of shapes and sizes, from flowering plants less than 1 inch long to trees that grow to 100 feet high.
Gymnosperms
Gymnosperms, in contrast to angiosperms, produce seeds that are not enclosed inside a fruit. These are called "naked seeds" because they have little protection from the elements. Instead of a fruit, gymnosperms typically produce cones. A cone carries a seed between its scales, and as it matures, the scales expand, releasing the seed. Gymnosperms are not as diverse as angiosperms, and trees account for the majority of the group.
Other Methods
Although roses belong to the angiosperm group and reproduce naturally by means of seeds, human beings have cultivated the plants for many years and reproduce them using other methods. Most modern garden roses are hybrids created by grafting cuttings onto rootstock. You can also plant cuttings of some types of roses without grafting them. The best chance for success comes when taking a cutting of a stem's tip just as the hip begins to form, advises Texas A&M University.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Knockout roses are a favorite rose variety for many gardeners because they are available in a wide range of colors and are relatively easy to grow. Although bred for disease resistance, knockout roses are susceptible to several rose-specific diseases and fungi. They also require proper watering habits and fertilizer to thrive. When knockout roses turn brown, they require intervention to correct the problem.
Drought
Roses need plenty of water, sometimes up to twice a day on the hottest days of the summer. Without enough water, the rose blooms will die prematurely and turn brown. The tips of the blooms turn brown first before the entire bloom loses its color, withers and falls. In severe drought conditions, the leaves will turn brown. If you do not rehydrate the plant, the entire plant will die. Remove the brown leaves, blooms and buds, and saturate the ground with water daily until the rose recovers.
Pest Infestations
Japanese beetles, aphids and thrips, as well as other insects, enjoy nesting and feeding on roses. To remove pest insects, use a commercially available insecticide labeled as safe for roses. You can pluck beetles and large insects from the bush to remove them, but they often come back. Thrips are small, so they often go unnoticed until the plant suffers. The best defense against insect infestations is a healthy plant that can withstand the attack on its own.
Fungi
Several types of fungi attack roses. The most common that cause the bush to turn brown are botrytis and black spot. Knockout roses are extremely resistant to black spot, but they can become infected. Botrytis causes the tips of blooms to turn brown. Black spot manifests as brown to black fuzzy spots on the leaves that eventually turns the leaf yellow.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilizing increases the overall health of the roses and helps them naturally fight infections and infestations. Always use fertilizer specifically formulated and labeled for use on roses and follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Brown-tipped leaves on the bush with new leaves developing that are red may signal a potassium deficiency in the soil. Add rose fertilizer to the soil that contains potassium to correct the problem.
Drought
Roses need plenty of water, sometimes up to twice a day on the hottest days of the summer. Without enough water, the rose blooms will die prematurely and turn brown. The tips of the blooms turn brown first before the entire bloom loses its color, withers and falls. In severe drought conditions, the leaves will turn brown. If you do not rehydrate the plant, the entire plant will die. Remove the brown leaves, blooms and buds, and saturate the ground with water daily until the rose recovers.
Pest Infestations
Japanese beetles, aphids and thrips, as well as other insects, enjoy nesting and feeding on roses. To remove pest insects, use a commercially available insecticide labeled as safe for roses. You can pluck beetles and large insects from the bush to remove them, but they often come back. Thrips are small, so they often go unnoticed until the plant suffers. The best defense against insect infestations is a healthy plant that can withstand the attack on its own.
Fungi
Several types of fungi attack roses. The most common that cause the bush to turn brown are botrytis and black spot. Knockout roses are extremely resistant to black spot, but they can become infected. Botrytis causes the tips of blooms to turn brown. Black spot manifests as brown to black fuzzy spots on the leaves that eventually turns the leaf yellow.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilizing increases the overall health of the roses and helps them naturally fight infections and infestations. Always use fertilizer specifically formulated and labeled for use on roses and follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Brown-tipped leaves on the bush with new leaves developing that are red may signal a potassium deficiency in the soil. Add rose fertilizer to the soil that contains potassium to correct the problem.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Often referred to as "Queen of the Garden," the rose is a perennial plant of the genus Rosa. There are more than 15,000 different species and hybrids cultivated around the world. In 1986, President Ronald Reagan signed legislation honoring the rose as the official flower of the United States.
Roses are valued for their beauty and delicate fragrance.
Dried rose petals are used in aromatherapy.
The scent of a rose is distinctive and unique. No other flower has that same smell. Rose oil is one of the most widely used scent ingredients in the perfume industry. The scent of roses is used in soaps, shampoos, perfumes, body lotions, bath gels and air fresheners.
Rosehips provide food for birds and other wildlife.
Roses bloom early and have a long blooming season. Flowering starts in late March and continues through September. When the flowers wither and fade, a small, round globe forms at the bloom's base. The rose hip, as it's called, matures into a marble- or plum-shaped sphere that ripens to a deep orange, red, purple or black. The rose hip's color depends on the type of rose. The berry-like hip is the rose plant's fruit. Rose hips have a delicate, sweet, apple-like flavor. Harvest the hips after the first frost. Frost brings out the deep, vibrant color and full flavor.
Parts of the rose are used in perfumes, soaps and bath salts.
Symbolic of love and beauty, roses are given as gifts of affection and attraction. The Society of American Florists reports that in 2010 more than 198-million roses were cultivated for Valentine's Day gift giving in the United States. Roses are durable, long-lasting and highly fragrant. Roses are available in white, pink, red, orange, yellow. Some varieties are variegated, presenting several colors in a single flower. The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribunda, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribunda are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry. Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribuna, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribuna are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry.
Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
Culinary Use
For centuries, wild rose hips were used as a food staple around the world. High in fiber and nutritionally rich, rose hips are a good source of vitamin C. Eat rose hips fresh, preserved or dried. Rose hips are used to prepare jellies, jams, marmalade, syrup, tea, soup and wine. Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes for harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes to harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Growing Requirements
Roses love sunshine and require at least six hours per day to attain their full potential. Roses survive in partial shade but are more susceptible to mold, mildew and fungus when deprived of adequate sunlight. Roses grow best in nutrient rich, well-drained soil. Roses are adaptable to most soils and grow in United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 2 through 11.
Roses are valued for their beauty and delicate fragrance.
Dried rose petals are used in aromatherapy.
The scent of a rose is distinctive and unique. No other flower has that same smell. Rose oil is one of the most widely used scent ingredients in the perfume industry. The scent of roses is used in soaps, shampoos, perfumes, body lotions, bath gels and air fresheners.
Rosehips provide food for birds and other wildlife.
Roses bloom early and have a long blooming season. Flowering starts in late March and continues through September. When the flowers wither and fade, a small, round globe forms at the bloom's base. The rose hip, as it's called, matures into a marble- or plum-shaped sphere that ripens to a deep orange, red, purple or black. The rose hip's color depends on the type of rose. The berry-like hip is the rose plant's fruit. Rose hips have a delicate, sweet, apple-like flavor. Harvest the hips after the first frost. Frost brings out the deep, vibrant color and full flavor.
Parts of the rose are used in perfumes, soaps and bath salts.
Symbolic of love and beauty, roses are given as gifts of affection and attraction. The Society of American Florists reports that in 2010 more than 198-million roses were cultivated for Valentine's Day gift giving in the United States. Roses are durable, long-lasting and highly fragrant. Roses are available in white, pink, red, orange, yellow. Some varieties are variegated, presenting several colors in a single flower. The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribunda, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribunda are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry. Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
The different types of roses include tree roses, miniature roses, climbers, shrub and landscape, floribuna, grandiflora and hybrid. Hybrid and floribuna are the two types grown primarily for the floral industry.
Rose petals are also edible and provide a tasteful and colorful addition to salads.
Culinary Use
For centuries, wild rose hips were used as a food staple around the world. High in fiber and nutritionally rich, rose hips are a good source of vitamin C. Eat rose hips fresh, preserved or dried. Rose hips are used to prepare jellies, jams, marmalade, syrup, tea, soup and wine. Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes for harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Rose hips are available for purchase online, from local health food shops or gather your own. Select certified organic cultivated rose hips or gather them in the wild. Select rose bushes to harvest that have not been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers.
Growing Requirements
Roses love sunshine and require at least six hours per day to attain their full potential. Roses survive in partial shade but are more susceptible to mold, mildew and fungus when deprived of adequate sunlight. Roses grow best in nutrient rich, well-drained soil. Roses are adaptable to most soils and grow in United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 2 through 11.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose varieties and the problems that plague each one are more numerous than can be counted, but there are a handful of common rose problems that will cause rose branches, also called canes, to turn brown. Unfortunately, by the time the cane is brown, that usually indicates that it is dead and should be removed. The exception to this is winter dormancy, after which brown canes usually flush out in spring with new life.
Disease
Brown canker is a fungus that enters the rose stems through damaged areas. Canes usually do not brown and die the first year of infection, but by the second year the damage girds the cane and kills it. Verticillium wilt starts on the lower branches and moves up the plant, giving the canes purplish-black streaks before they wilt and brown from the tips down to the base. This fungus persists in the soil for many years, infecting other plants.
Winter Kills
Rose stems naturally die when temperatures drop low enough to kill the branch. Actual death usually occurs in spring when the plant starts to come out of dormancy only to have a late frost kill the tender branch. If the bush produces new branches with new growth from the base or only from certain canes, those that are still evenly brown and do not flush out are dead. Scratching a small area of the cane will expose either green stem underneath if it is still alive but late to flush, or you will see tan/brown flesh if it is dead.
Physical Damage
Canes that are broken are usually obvious -- they are bent at an awkward angle or fall off entirely. Sometimes they don't break entirely or are broken in inconspicuous places. The length of the stem must be examined for damage, though the area where the stem changes from green to brown is the best place to start. Signs of gnawing or areas where the bark has been removed indicate gnawing rodents such as mice or voles.
Solutions
Canker must be removed with sharp, disinfected pruners well below the canker spot and then burned or hot-composted. Verticillium wilt can be introduced to the garden from seemingly healthy plants. Purchase only from reputable growers and destroy infected plants. Covering roses during winter in areas where the canes are only exposed to brief bouts of killing frosts may ensure more canes survive the winter. Placing physical barriers around roses where dogs, people or equipment damage the roses helps, while spraying the base of the rose bush with rodent repellent discourages gnawing.
Disease
Brown canker is a fungus that enters the rose stems through damaged areas. Canes usually do not brown and die the first year of infection, but by the second year the damage girds the cane and kills it. Verticillium wilt starts on the lower branches and moves up the plant, giving the canes purplish-black streaks before they wilt and brown from the tips down to the base. This fungus persists in the soil for many years, infecting other plants.
Winter Kills
Rose stems naturally die when temperatures drop low enough to kill the branch. Actual death usually occurs in spring when the plant starts to come out of dormancy only to have a late frost kill the tender branch. If the bush produces new branches with new growth from the base or only from certain canes, those that are still evenly brown and do not flush out are dead. Scratching a small area of the cane will expose either green stem underneath if it is still alive but late to flush, or you will see tan/brown flesh if it is dead.
Physical Damage
Canes that are broken are usually obvious -- they are bent at an awkward angle or fall off entirely. Sometimes they don't break entirely or are broken in inconspicuous places. The length of the stem must be examined for damage, though the area where the stem changes from green to brown is the best place to start. Signs of gnawing or areas where the bark has been removed indicate gnawing rodents such as mice or voles.
Solutions
Canker must be removed with sharp, disinfected pruners well below the canker spot and then burned or hot-composted. Verticillium wilt can be introduced to the garden from seemingly healthy plants. Purchase only from reputable growers and destroy infected plants. Covering roses during winter in areas where the canes are only exposed to brief bouts of killing frosts may ensure more canes survive the winter. Placing physical barriers around roses where dogs, people or equipment damage the roses helps, while spraying the base of the rose bush with rodent repellent discourages gnawing.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose plants exhibiting stem discoloration or blackening may have contracted a fungal disease that causes stem cankers. Stem cankers are caused by several different fungi, according to Ohio State University. These fungal spores enter through the wounds made in stems by improper pruning or weather damage. It is important for rose gardeners to recognize the signs of stem cankers and employ proper disease management practices.
Stem Cankers
Disease-causing fungal spores overwinter in debris left underneath rose plants, according to the University of Georgia. In the spring when temperatures rise, these fungal spores germinate and spread through the wind. Often, rose plants are infected during hot humid weather. Improper pruning practices, rainwater, irrigation water, open wounds and infected pruning tools spread fungal spores to different areas of your plant. Gardeners must employ proper management practices and monitor their plant for symptoms during hot humid weather.
Symptoms
Infected stems display lesions that grow in size and become discolored. Lesions may start off turning yellow or purple, according to the University of Georgia. Over time, lesions sink into the stems, take on a wrinkly appearance and crack. Furthermore, infected areas turn black. You may see the black fruiting bodies of the fungal spores growing from these infected areas. The result is stem girdling, which prevents both water and nutrients from getting past the cankers.
Treatment
Spray your infected rose plant with the same type of fungicide that you would use to treat blackspot disease. Your fungicide may contain active ingredients such as chlorothalonil, maneb and benomyl, according to Mississippi State University. Avoid spraying a rose plant that is suffering from water stress with fungicide to prevent causing damage. Continue to spray during the growing season to treat stem cankers.
Pruning
Remove diseased portions of your rose plant. Dip your bypass shears in a mixture of 70 percent denatured alcohol and 30 percent water. Make 45-degree angled cuts 5 to 6 inches below the stem canker, as suggested by the University of Georgia. Apply a small amount of glue to the wound to keep fungal spores from entering the plant. Clean up all debris underneath your rose plants. Burn or throw away debris, but do not place the diseased portions of the plant in your compost.
Stem Cankers
Disease-causing fungal spores overwinter in debris left underneath rose plants, according to the University of Georgia. In the spring when temperatures rise, these fungal spores germinate and spread through the wind. Often, rose plants are infected during hot humid weather. Improper pruning practices, rainwater, irrigation water, open wounds and infected pruning tools spread fungal spores to different areas of your plant. Gardeners must employ proper management practices and monitor their plant for symptoms during hot humid weather.
Symptoms
Infected stems display lesions that grow in size and become discolored. Lesions may start off turning yellow or purple, according to the University of Georgia. Over time, lesions sink into the stems, take on a wrinkly appearance and crack. Furthermore, infected areas turn black. You may see the black fruiting bodies of the fungal spores growing from these infected areas. The result is stem girdling, which prevents both water and nutrients from getting past the cankers.
Treatment
Spray your infected rose plant with the same type of fungicide that you would use to treat blackspot disease. Your fungicide may contain active ingredients such as chlorothalonil, maneb and benomyl, according to Mississippi State University. Avoid spraying a rose plant that is suffering from water stress with fungicide to prevent causing damage. Continue to spray during the growing season to treat stem cankers.
Pruning
Remove diseased portions of your rose plant. Dip your bypass shears in a mixture of 70 percent denatured alcohol and 30 percent water. Make 45-degree angled cuts 5 to 6 inches below the stem canker, as suggested by the University of Georgia. Apply a small amount of glue to the wound to keep fungal spores from entering the plant. Clean up all debris underneath your rose plants. Burn or throw away debris, but do not place the diseased portions of the plant in your compost.
0
1
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses can experience two major types of flies: syrphid flies and rose midges. One of these is actually a beneficial insect and the other means big trouble for rose plants. Flies pass by rose plants because they're a naturally occurring outdoor insect, but if you notice flies hanging around your rose plants repeatedly, you may have a problem.
Cause
Plants that are neglected or are not receiving adequate care tend to experience more pests than those that receive better care, but there is no guarantee that your plant will have a fly-free season. Unfortunately, flies and other garden pests are natural. However, providing your rose with the right care and treating the flies can reduce any problems.
Types
The rose midge is a destructive fly that can greatly harm rose plants. Adult rose midges lay eggs in the flowers; hatched larvae munch on flower buds. The affected flowers can wither and turn black. Larvae pupate in the soil beneath the plant, leading to a new generation of flies near the roses. If you don't break the cycle, your plants will suffer. Syrphid flies also enjoy roses, but these insects are beneficial since they eat aphids, another rose pest. These flies look like wasps, not flies, and feed on rose nectar. If you see these flies, there's nothing to worry about.
Treatment
Control rose midges with insecticides. Look for an insecticide that is approved for use in your area and apply the insecticide per the manufacturer's instructions. If you prefer natural pest control, use beneficial insects to eat the flies. Purchase predatory wasps online or at your local nursery. Placing landscape cloth below your roses means the rose midge larvae will fall onto the cloth to pupate. You can scoop up the cloth and throw it out, reducing your midge population.
Care
Good care cuts down on pests. Prune off dead branches and deadhead spent blossoms to maintain a neat bush. Water roses when the soil feels dry to the touch, until the soil becomes saturated. Watch for signs of diseases or pests so you can take action quickly and reduce potential harm to your rose.
Cause
Plants that are neglected or are not receiving adequate care tend to experience more pests than those that receive better care, but there is no guarantee that your plant will have a fly-free season. Unfortunately, flies and other garden pests are natural. However, providing your rose with the right care and treating the flies can reduce any problems.
Types
The rose midge is a destructive fly that can greatly harm rose plants. Adult rose midges lay eggs in the flowers; hatched larvae munch on flower buds. The affected flowers can wither and turn black. Larvae pupate in the soil beneath the plant, leading to a new generation of flies near the roses. If you don't break the cycle, your plants will suffer. Syrphid flies also enjoy roses, but these insects are beneficial since they eat aphids, another rose pest. These flies look like wasps, not flies, and feed on rose nectar. If you see these flies, there's nothing to worry about.
Treatment
Control rose midges with insecticides. Look for an insecticide that is approved for use in your area and apply the insecticide per the manufacturer's instructions. If you prefer natural pest control, use beneficial insects to eat the flies. Purchase predatory wasps online or at your local nursery. Placing landscape cloth below your roses means the rose midge larvae will fall onto the cloth to pupate. You can scoop up the cloth and throw it out, reducing your midge population.
Care
Good care cuts down on pests. Prune off dead branches and deadhead spent blossoms to maintain a neat bush. Water roses when the soil feels dry to the touch, until the soil becomes saturated. Watch for signs of diseases or pests so you can take action quickly and reduce potential harm to your rose.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Signs of animal damage to rose plantings cause concern, especially since you devoted your time and effort to growing and maintaining the plants. Critters, including deer and rabbits, chew rose blooms, buds and leaves, and scratch stems, leaving behind a trampled mess. The otherwise shy and docile pests attack the plants at night or early in the morning, when human activity is absent. Adopt a preventive strategy to keep the animals away from your precious roses.
Step 1
Mix 2 to 3 tbsp. cayenne pepper sauce in 1 gallon of water and pour in a spray bottle. Apply the repellent over and around the rose bushes to deter the critters from damaging the plants. Alternatively, spray a commercially available contact repellent over the plantings to make them unpalatable and prevent the animals from returning to your garden. Reapply the repellent frequently, especially during the rainy season.
Step 2
Spray wolf, coyote or another predator's urine around the roses to frighten the critters and keep them from visiting your rose garden.
Step 3
Trap small pests, such as rabbits, to rid them from your rose garden. Place the traps strategically in your garden along with bait, such as slices of fruit, to lure them in. Once caught, release the rabbit far from your garden. Inspect the trap every few hours and reposition it you fail to catch the animal in a few days.
Step 4
Fence the area to keep the animals from entering your garden. Dig a trench 2 feet deep and 24 to 36 inches wide if rabbits are damaging your roses, or keep the fence 6 feet high and flush with the ground to prevent deer from jumping over. Install stakes every 4 feet along the area to support chicken wire with 1-inch openings.
Step 5
Install motion-activated lights, sprinklers or sounds around your garden that suddenly set off when stepped on. Alternatively, strategically place a scarecrow or effigy of a predator in the flower bed.
Step 6
Puncture a hole through the top of an aluminum strip or pie plate and insert a length of twine through it. Wind the other end of the twine around a low-hanging tree branch or a stake near your rose bush. Hang several strips or plates together to scare animals with their shine or clanking sounds.
Step 7
Cut a bar of sharp soap into 2-inch sections using a sharp knife and place each in a mesh bag. Alternatively, place human hair, garlic or cayenne pepper into the mesh bag and suspend from a branch near the roses to deter the pests with its offensive scent.
Step 8
Grow plants the animal does not like to keep it from frequenting your rose garden. For instance, deer avoid snapdragon, dianthus, yarrow, bee balm and vinca, so grow these around your roses to keep the animals away.
Step 1
Mix 2 to 3 tbsp. cayenne pepper sauce in 1 gallon of water and pour in a spray bottle. Apply the repellent over and around the rose bushes to deter the critters from damaging the plants. Alternatively, spray a commercially available contact repellent over the plantings to make them unpalatable and prevent the animals from returning to your garden. Reapply the repellent frequently, especially during the rainy season.
Step 2
Spray wolf, coyote or another predator's urine around the roses to frighten the critters and keep them from visiting your rose garden.
Step 3
Trap small pests, such as rabbits, to rid them from your rose garden. Place the traps strategically in your garden along with bait, such as slices of fruit, to lure them in. Once caught, release the rabbit far from your garden. Inspect the trap every few hours and reposition it you fail to catch the animal in a few days.
Step 4
Fence the area to keep the animals from entering your garden. Dig a trench 2 feet deep and 24 to 36 inches wide if rabbits are damaging your roses, or keep the fence 6 feet high and flush with the ground to prevent deer from jumping over. Install stakes every 4 feet along the area to support chicken wire with 1-inch openings.
Step 5
Install motion-activated lights, sprinklers or sounds around your garden that suddenly set off when stepped on. Alternatively, strategically place a scarecrow or effigy of a predator in the flower bed.
Step 6
Puncture a hole through the top of an aluminum strip or pie plate and insert a length of twine through it. Wind the other end of the twine around a low-hanging tree branch or a stake near your rose bush. Hang several strips or plates together to scare animals with their shine or clanking sounds.
Step 7
Cut a bar of sharp soap into 2-inch sections using a sharp knife and place each in a mesh bag. Alternatively, place human hair, garlic or cayenne pepper into the mesh bag and suspend from a branch near the roses to deter the pests with its offensive scent.
Step 8
Grow plants the animal does not like to keep it from frequenting your rose garden. For instance, deer avoid snapdragon, dianthus, yarrow, bee balm and vinca, so grow these around your roses to keep the animals away.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The classic flower for the wedding bouquet is the white rose. Eventually the white roses in your bouquet, corsage or floral arrangement will begin to turn brown, a natural occurrence as the blossom starts to fade. While this happens to all roses, the browning is more evident in white roses, as there is no color to conceal the evidence of the transformation. Taking special care when handling your roses can delay the process, allowing you to enjoy the flowers longer.
Step 1
Don't touch the blossom petals, to avoid bruising and browning the flower.
Step 2
Keep the roses in a cool location, away from heat sources, and avoid sudden changes of temperature or drafts of cold or hot air.
Step 3
Cut 1/2 inch from the stem, if it is a stemmed white rose, before placing it in a vase of water. Remove any leaves that will be covered with water when placed in the vase. Add the floral preservative that comes with the flower to the water, following the directions on the package.
Step 4
Keep the corsage or bouquet in the florist box until you are ready to wear it. This includes when you are traveling to your destination site.
Step 5
Wear the corsage blossom up, stem down.
Step 6
Store the florist box of white roses in the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.
Step 7
Add water to the foam of the corsage daily.
Step 1
Don't touch the blossom petals, to avoid bruising and browning the flower.
Step 2
Keep the roses in a cool location, away from heat sources, and avoid sudden changes of temperature or drafts of cold or hot air.
Step 3
Cut 1/2 inch from the stem, if it is a stemmed white rose, before placing it in a vase of water. Remove any leaves that will be covered with water when placed in the vase. Add the floral preservative that comes with the flower to the water, following the directions on the package.
Step 4
Keep the corsage or bouquet in the florist box until you are ready to wear it. This includes when you are traveling to your destination site.
Step 5
Wear the corsage blossom up, stem down.
Step 6
Store the florist box of white roses in the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.
Step 7
Add water to the foam of the corsage daily.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Any rose gardener knows that proper pruning is vital to the health of the bush and propagation of future blooms. They also know that disposal of the cuttings can be cumbersome and painful. The thorny branches are hard to handle and they don't degrade well in compost heaps. A good alternative is to burn your prunings.
Pruning Your Rose Bush
Pruning is vital to the proper growth of your rose bush. Wearing gloves and long sleeves, prune your plant, starting at its base. Use clean, sharp pruners to cut dead and diseased branches, shape the plant, and to foster new growth. Make cuts at 45 degree angles, above new buds.
When to Prune
Although your pruning season depends on the rose species and the USDA hardiness zone in which you live, the fall is generally considered a good time to cut back growth and ready the plant for winter. Long canes left exposed to the elements can become damaged under the weight of snow and ice and cause the roots to loosen from the safety of their soil. Plants that are at least two to three years old should also be pruned in the spring. If your plant has successfully grown to three or four feet, prune in the spring to hasten new growth, healthy blossoming and hardy root development.
Gather Cuttings
Collect all the cuttings from your bushes and leave them outdoors, exposed to sun. If you've got a patch of newly budding grass, the cuttings make a great deterrent for birds and pests. Otherwise, find a safe, sunlit spot where people and animals won't bump into your thorny pile. To fully dry your cuttings, expect to wait six months in most U.S. growing regions.
Use as Kindling
Once the rose cuttings are sufficiently dry, wear gloves and protective clothing and use sharp clippers to trim your prunings to a size that will fit properly to your fire pit. While there is no need to remove thorns, use care when handling the branches. Burn the cuttings outdoors as your community allows, or bring them indoors and use as kindling for woodstoves and fireplaces. Place along with paper below logs as an effective and economical fire starter.
Pruning Your Rose Bush
Pruning is vital to the proper growth of your rose bush. Wearing gloves and long sleeves, prune your plant, starting at its base. Use clean, sharp pruners to cut dead and diseased branches, shape the plant, and to foster new growth. Make cuts at 45 degree angles, above new buds.
When to Prune
Although your pruning season depends on the rose species and the USDA hardiness zone in which you live, the fall is generally considered a good time to cut back growth and ready the plant for winter. Long canes left exposed to the elements can become damaged under the weight of snow and ice and cause the roots to loosen from the safety of their soil. Plants that are at least two to three years old should also be pruned in the spring. If your plant has successfully grown to three or four feet, prune in the spring to hasten new growth, healthy blossoming and hardy root development.
Gather Cuttings
Collect all the cuttings from your bushes and leave them outdoors, exposed to sun. If you've got a patch of newly budding grass, the cuttings make a great deterrent for birds and pests. Otherwise, find a safe, sunlit spot where people and animals won't bump into your thorny pile. To fully dry your cuttings, expect to wait six months in most U.S. growing regions.
Use as Kindling
Once the rose cuttings are sufficiently dry, wear gloves and protective clothing and use sharp clippers to trim your prunings to a size that will fit properly to your fire pit. While there is no need to remove thorns, use care when handling the branches. Burn the cuttings outdoors as your community allows, or bring them indoors and use as kindling for woodstoves and fireplaces. Place along with paper below logs as an effective and economical fire starter.
0
0
