文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Leaf cutter bees (Megachile rotundata) are small native bees about ¼ inch long, robust and dark grey with a pollen brush on the underside of the abdomen. They are beneficial for the most part and only cause minor damage to ornamentals such as rose and ash by cutting half moon-shaped disks from the leaves. They are not aggressive but can give a mild sting if handled. They are important plant pollinators.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The most characteristic symptom of leaf cutter bees are the half-moon shaped holes they make on the edges of leaves as they remove disks of leaf tissue to take back to form nest cells. A leaf may have a single disk removed or several.
Life cycle
Leafcutter bees are solitary bees. They do not form colonies. Females emerge in late spring, mate and form new nests in soft, rotten wood, the pith area of plants, or other existing holes of the correct size. They line the nest with the leaf fragments they collect, provision each cell with a mixture of nectar and pollen, lay an egg and seal the cell. Finished nests may contain a dozen cells or more. The young bees develop and remain in the cell overwintering as a full-grown larvae. There is only one generation a year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Prevention. Eliminate breeding sites. Look for rotting boards with sawdust pushed out of excavated tunnels or thick stemmed plants with hollowed openings.
2. Mechanical control. Cover susceptible plants with cheesecloth or other loose netting during periods when leafcutter bees are most active (in late summer). To prevent leafcutter bees from tunneling into rose canes, seal exposed pith as canes are pruned. Place a thumb tack, bit of sealing wax or white glue on the opening.
3. Chemical controls. Insecticides are ineffective for preventing leaf cutting. Remember, leafcutter bees are native, beneficial bees, important as pollinators.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The most characteristic symptom of leaf cutter bees are the half-moon shaped holes they make on the edges of leaves as they remove disks of leaf tissue to take back to form nest cells. A leaf may have a single disk removed or several.
Life cycle
Leafcutter bees are solitary bees. They do not form colonies. Females emerge in late spring, mate and form new nests in soft, rotten wood, the pith area of plants, or other existing holes of the correct size. They line the nest with the leaf fragments they collect, provision each cell with a mixture of nectar and pollen, lay an egg and seal the cell. Finished nests may contain a dozen cells or more. The young bees develop and remain in the cell overwintering as a full-grown larvae. There is only one generation a year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Prevention. Eliminate breeding sites. Look for rotting boards with sawdust pushed out of excavated tunnels or thick stemmed plants with hollowed openings.
2. Mechanical control. Cover susceptible plants with cheesecloth or other loose netting during periods when leafcutter bees are most active (in late summer). To prevent leafcutter bees from tunneling into rose canes, seal exposed pith as canes are pruned. Place a thumb tack, bit of sealing wax or white glue on the opening.
3. Chemical controls. Insecticides are ineffective for preventing leaf cutting. Remember, leafcutter bees are native, beneficial bees, important as pollinators.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Leaves will become a dark brown colour and drop. Blossoms will die back. Fruits will become discoloured and wrinkled. A white slimy substance may excrete from infected areas. 
Plants affected
Pears, apples, hawthorn, rose
About Fireblight
Fireblight is a disease caused by a bacteria.
It gets its name from the scorched look of infected leaves.
The first recorded outbreak in Britain was in 1957.
In Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man it is a notifiable disease, and any potential or confirmed outbreaks must be reported to DEFRA.
The slime contains the bacteria, which spreads to other plants on insects, birds and other small animals. The bacteria can also be transmitted with garden tools, from water splashes during rainfall or by any other mechanical means.
The infection will spread quickly spread throughout a plant, which may die in only a few months.
Treatment
Chemical
There is currently no chemical control commercially available for fire blight.
Organic
Remove any infected leaves, flowers and branches and burn them.
Sterilise any tools used for removing infected material with a household bleach solution after each cut and always prune or saw into undamaged healthy wood.
Avoid planting more trees from susceptible species.
Plants affected
Pears, apples, hawthorn, rose
About Fireblight
Fireblight is a disease caused by a bacteria.
It gets its name from the scorched look of infected leaves.
The first recorded outbreak in Britain was in 1957.
In Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man it is a notifiable disease, and any potential or confirmed outbreaks must be reported to DEFRA.
The slime contains the bacteria, which spreads to other plants on insects, birds and other small animals. The bacteria can also be transmitted with garden tools, from water splashes during rainfall or by any other mechanical means.
The infection will spread quickly spread throughout a plant, which may die in only a few months.
Treatment
Chemical
There is currently no chemical control commercially available for fire blight.
Organic
Remove any infected leaves, flowers and branches and burn them.
Sterilise any tools used for removing infected material with a household bleach solution after each cut and always prune or saw into undamaged healthy wood.
Avoid planting more trees from susceptible species.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Large black or dark purple spots on the surface of the leaves or stems are the main signs of black spot. As the problem gets worse the foliage gradually turns yellow and drops prematurely, weakening the plant.
Plants affected
Rose black spot is an extremely common and widespread fungal disease of both cultivated and wild rose varieties.
About Rose black spot
Rose black spot is specific to roses and all types are susceptible.
The disease causes dark spots or irregular brown or black blotches on both leaf surfaces. Leaves then turn yellow and drop prematurely, resulting in weakened plants.
The disease is worse in warm, wet weather.
The black spot fungus produces spores which are released under wet conditions and usually spread by rain-splash.
The disease can also be passed from plant to plant on hands, clothing or tools.
Spores overwinter mostly on the shoots, but can survive on fallen leaves and within the soil.
Recently, rose black spot has become more common in town and city gardens due to less sulphur dioxide within atmospheric pollution. Sulphur is known to reduce fungal problems.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Rose black spot
Penconazole
Myclobutanil - alternating any of these with the protectant Mancozeb to prevent the fungus developing resistance to the fungicides.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Remove infected, fallen leaves promptly and burn.
Hard prune shoots in spring and burn the prunings.
Treat infections with powdered sulphur, which is deemed organically acceptable.
Some cultivars are partially resistant to black spot but in a bad year all varieties may succumb. Generally, many of the older cultivars and more yellow than red or pink cultivars are susceptible to the disease. So checking catalogues and choosing resistant varieties, such as 'Bonita', 'Royal William' or 'New Dawn', and growing a mixed planting should help. Rose varieties less than five years old should be relatively disease resistant.
Prevention
Prevention of rose black spot is very difficult and many strains of the fungi are resistant. However, regular raking around the plant with a hoe and pruning and burning of infected material will certainly help along with the advised treatments.
Choosing resistant varieties also helps, but don't rely too heavily on resistance because there are many species of fungus and even new varieties can quickly succumb.
Adopt a regular, fortnightly spraying regime to protect your plants before the problem begins. It's a good idea to alternate the chemical that you use to prevent resistance occurring.
Dig in plenty of organic matter at planting time and keep plants well fed throughout the growing season. Strong healthy plants will generally resist attack better those that are weak.
Surround plants with a fresh layer of mulch each spring. This will smother any spores that have fallen around your plants and stop them from being splashed on to roses by rain.
Plants affected
Rose black spot is an extremely common and widespread fungal disease of both cultivated and wild rose varieties.
About Rose black spot
Rose black spot is specific to roses and all types are susceptible.
The disease causes dark spots or irregular brown or black blotches on both leaf surfaces. Leaves then turn yellow and drop prematurely, resulting in weakened plants.
The disease is worse in warm, wet weather.
The black spot fungus produces spores which are released under wet conditions and usually spread by rain-splash.
The disease can also be passed from plant to plant on hands, clothing or tools.
Spores overwinter mostly on the shoots, but can survive on fallen leaves and within the soil.
Recently, rose black spot has become more common in town and city gardens due to less sulphur dioxide within atmospheric pollution. Sulphur is known to reduce fungal problems.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Rose black spot
Penconazole
Myclobutanil - alternating any of these with the protectant Mancozeb to prevent the fungus developing resistance to the fungicides.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Remove infected, fallen leaves promptly and burn.
Hard prune shoots in spring and burn the prunings.
Treat infections with powdered sulphur, which is deemed organically acceptable.
Some cultivars are partially resistant to black spot but in a bad year all varieties may succumb. Generally, many of the older cultivars and more yellow than red or pink cultivars are susceptible to the disease. So checking catalogues and choosing resistant varieties, such as 'Bonita', 'Royal William' or 'New Dawn', and growing a mixed planting should help. Rose varieties less than five years old should be relatively disease resistant.
Prevention
Prevention of rose black spot is very difficult and many strains of the fungi are resistant. However, regular raking around the plant with a hoe and pruning and burning of infected material will certainly help along with the advised treatments.
Choosing resistant varieties also helps, but don't rely too heavily on resistance because there are many species of fungus and even new varieties can quickly succumb.
Adopt a regular, fortnightly spraying regime to protect your plants before the problem begins. It's a good idea to alternate the chemical that you use to prevent resistance occurring.
Dig in plenty of organic matter at planting time and keep plants well fed throughout the growing season. Strong healthy plants will generally resist attack better those that are weak.
Surround plants with a fresh layer of mulch each spring. This will smother any spores that have fallen around your plants and stop them from being splashed on to roses by rain.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Named for the scorched appearance of infected leaves, fire blight is a destructive bacterial disease (Erwinia amylovora) found on apples, pears and other members of the rose family. The disease enters the tree at the tips of the branches and then travels down the stems causing dieback. It attacks soft new growth first, so you would notice dieback at the top of the plant.
Most infected leaves and branch tips wilt rapidly turn brown or black; the leaves die but do not drop off. Trees will also develop reddish water soaked lesions on the bark. On warm days, these lesions ooze an orange-brown liquid. Fire blight kills blossoms, shoots, limbs and sometimes, the entire tree.
The bacteria overwinters in infected bark and is spread by splashing rain, dew, wind and insects. It spreads rapidly in moist, warm weather, especially during bloom.
Treatment
Select resistant varieties whenever possible.
Avoid heavy pruning or excess applications of nitrogen fertilizer, both of which encourage new growth.
Avoid planting close to wild plants of hawthorn, apple or pear.
As soon as fire blight is discovered, prune off infected branches 1 foot below the diseased sections and burn them to prevent further infection. Dip pruning shears into a 10% alcohol or bleach solution between each cut to avoid transmitting the disease from one branch to another.
Early applications of liquid copper are effective against this plant problem. Mix 0.5 to 2.0 oz per gallon of water and apply at silver tip and bud break — repeat at 3 to 5 day intervals up to petal fall. Use the lower rate if disease pressure is light and the higher rate when conditions favor heavy disease pressure.
Bacterial spread can be reduced by applications of products that contain Streptomyces lydicus as the active ingredient. To obtain best disease control, applications should be made at the start of the bloom period and every five to seven days thereafter.
SERENADE Garden is a broad spectrum, preventative bio-fungicide recommended for the control or suppression of many important plant diseases. For best results, treat prior to foliar disease development or at the first sign of infection. Repeat at 7-day intervals or as needed.
The systemic action of Organocide® Plant Doctor moves throughout the entire plant to treat most common disease problems. Mix 2-1/2 to 5 tsp per gallon of water and apply to foliage. Spray to run-off, as required for disease control.
Most infected leaves and branch tips wilt rapidly turn brown or black; the leaves die but do not drop off. Trees will also develop reddish water soaked lesions on the bark. On warm days, these lesions ooze an orange-brown liquid. Fire blight kills blossoms, shoots, limbs and sometimes, the entire tree.
The bacteria overwinters in infected bark and is spread by splashing rain, dew, wind and insects. It spreads rapidly in moist, warm weather, especially during bloom.
Treatment
Select resistant varieties whenever possible.
Avoid heavy pruning or excess applications of nitrogen fertilizer, both of which encourage new growth.
Avoid planting close to wild plants of hawthorn, apple or pear.
As soon as fire blight is discovered, prune off infected branches 1 foot below the diseased sections and burn them to prevent further infection. Dip pruning shears into a 10% alcohol or bleach solution between each cut to avoid transmitting the disease from one branch to another.
Early applications of liquid copper are effective against this plant problem. Mix 0.5 to 2.0 oz per gallon of water and apply at silver tip and bud break — repeat at 3 to 5 day intervals up to petal fall. Use the lower rate if disease pressure is light and the higher rate when conditions favor heavy disease pressure.
Bacterial spread can be reduced by applications of products that contain Streptomyces lydicus as the active ingredient. To obtain best disease control, applications should be made at the start of the bloom period and every five to seven days thereafter.
SERENADE Garden is a broad spectrum, preventative bio-fungicide recommended for the control or suppression of many important plant diseases. For best results, treat prior to foliar disease development or at the first sign of infection. Repeat at 7-day intervals or as needed.
The systemic action of Organocide® Plant Doctor moves throughout the entire plant to treat most common disease problems. Mix 2-1/2 to 5 tsp per gallon of water and apply to foliage. Spray to run-off, as required for disease control.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
What do yellow leaves mean on Rose of Sharon plants that you're watering well? Perhaps you're watering your rose of Sharon plants too well! 
Over-Watering is as Bad as Under-Watering
Over-watering plants is an extremely common problem, and one of the signs is yellow leaves (when they should be green). The roots of plants not tolerant of waterlogged soil won't be able to "breathe," and they die of a lack of oxygen.
Ironically, after the roots "drown" in this manner, you'll see the "drying up" of the leaves because the now debilitated roots won't be able to make use of all that water.
Drainage is Key
You may truly think that you're not over-watering; but if your soil isn't well-drained, the roots still could, in fact, be resting in waterlogged soil. If your case is, indeed, a case of poorly-drained soil, your best recourse would be to transplant the rose of Sharon plants to an area where the soil is well-drained. Prepare the area now, in the summer (peat moss can be mixed into the soil to improve drainage), and do the transplanting in autumn, once the weather cools off.
Why Only Some Plants are Dying
Are some of your plants thriving while others are showing yellow leaves and dying out? What seems a 'random' dying out might not really be so, at all. Let me draw an analogy. In a group of 20 people who smoke tobacco, some might die of cancer in their fifties, others might do so in the seventies, and still others might live to a ripe old age without becoming cancerous.
We aren't all alike, and even folks with very similar genetic makeups are subject to different environmental influences. To some degree, the same is true of plants. For all you know, the rose of Sharon plants that have survived till now may have gotten off to better starts as 'babies' and are simply a bit more resilient than those that have already died from the over-watering.
Over-Watering is as Bad as Under-Watering
Over-watering plants is an extremely common problem, and one of the signs is yellow leaves (when they should be green). The roots of plants not tolerant of waterlogged soil won't be able to "breathe," and they die of a lack of oxygen.
Ironically, after the roots "drown" in this manner, you'll see the "drying up" of the leaves because the now debilitated roots won't be able to make use of all that water.
Drainage is Key
You may truly think that you're not over-watering; but if your soil isn't well-drained, the roots still could, in fact, be resting in waterlogged soil. If your case is, indeed, a case of poorly-drained soil, your best recourse would be to transplant the rose of Sharon plants to an area where the soil is well-drained. Prepare the area now, in the summer (peat moss can be mixed into the soil to improve drainage), and do the transplanting in autumn, once the weather cools off.
Why Only Some Plants are Dying
Are some of your plants thriving while others are showing yellow leaves and dying out? What seems a 'random' dying out might not really be so, at all. Let me draw an analogy. In a group of 20 people who smoke tobacco, some might die of cancer in their fifties, others might do so in the seventies, and still others might live to a ripe old age without becoming cancerous.
We aren't all alike, and even folks with very similar genetic makeups are subject to different environmental influences. To some degree, the same is true of plants. For all you know, the rose of Sharon plants that have survived till now may have gotten off to better starts as 'babies' and are simply a bit more resilient than those that have already died from the over-watering.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Roses have a reputation for getting all kinds of diseases. While modern roses are a lot less prone to problems than the tea roses favored not so long ago, there will inevitably be seasonal rose problems to deal with.
Most rose diseases are caused by damp or humid weather. While you can't do anything to control the weather, you can give your rose bushes good air circulation, so they are able to dry off as best they can.
This will help avoid rose diseases to some degree, but not entirely. You will also need to keep tabs on your rose bushes so that you can remedy any bad situation before it gets out of hand.
Be sure to accurately identify the problem before reaching for a spray and start with the least toxic solution. You can read more about organic controls in An Overview of Some Common Organic Garden Pesticides.
The Big 4 of Rose Diseases
Black Spot: Black spot is a fungus that is very common during humid weather because it is a water-bourne disease. As its name implies, small black spots form on leaves and stems, eventually causing the leaves to drop and weakening the plant.
Treatment: Choose black spot resistant varieties and be meticulous about sanitation. Water the roots of the rose, avoiding the foliage. Water in the morning, so that splashed leaves have time to dry off. If Black Spot is an annual problem, try a dormant spray of lime sulfur at the end of the season and again in early summer. Once Black Spot appears, it is hard to stop. Neem oil and Sprays containing Potassium bicarbonate are somewhat effective.
Downy Mildew: Downy mildew is a very serious disease that spreads rapidly and can defoliate a rose plant in days. It is not as common as Black Spot and favors cool, wet weather. Purple spots with yellow edges form , often on the veins on the top side of the leaves and along the stems. Pale gray fuzz can form on the under side of the leaves. The leaves will eventually become brittle and fall.
Treatment: The good news is that Downy Mildew often clears up with the weather. To reduce the chance of Downy Mildew, practice good garden sanitation and keep the rose plants well pruned for air circulation. As with other diseases, a dormant spray may help.
Rust: A Rust infection is easy to spot. Small orange pustules spots form on the undersides of the leaves. This fungus can also cause defoliation. Rust is most prevalent when nights are cool.
Treatment: Treatment of Rust is similar to treatment of Black Spot, above: Good sanitation and a preventative dormant spray after pruning. Once infected, remove all infected leaves and try Neem oil for control.
Mosaic Virus: Once a rose is infected with Rose Mosaic Virus, there’s not much to be done except check with the nursery for a replacement. Rose Mosaic Virus shows up as yellow mottling on leaves and deformed new growth. It can stunt growth or it can be a mild infection. If there are only a few affected leaves, the plant may continue growing and blooming fine. The really good news is that it won’t spread to your other roses.
Read Rose Growing Problems - Prevent Rose Problems Before They Occur, for advice on avoiding these diseases and other problems.
Most rose diseases are caused by damp or humid weather. While you can't do anything to control the weather, you can give your rose bushes good air circulation, so they are able to dry off as best they can.
This will help avoid rose diseases to some degree, but not entirely. You will also need to keep tabs on your rose bushes so that you can remedy any bad situation before it gets out of hand.
Be sure to accurately identify the problem before reaching for a spray and start with the least toxic solution. You can read more about organic controls in An Overview of Some Common Organic Garden Pesticides.
The Big 4 of Rose Diseases
Black Spot: Black spot is a fungus that is very common during humid weather because it is a water-bourne disease. As its name implies, small black spots form on leaves and stems, eventually causing the leaves to drop and weakening the plant.
Treatment: Choose black spot resistant varieties and be meticulous about sanitation. Water the roots of the rose, avoiding the foliage. Water in the morning, so that splashed leaves have time to dry off. If Black Spot is an annual problem, try a dormant spray of lime sulfur at the end of the season and again in early summer. Once Black Spot appears, it is hard to stop. Neem oil and Sprays containing Potassium bicarbonate are somewhat effective.
Downy Mildew: Downy mildew is a very serious disease that spreads rapidly and can defoliate a rose plant in days. It is not as common as Black Spot and favors cool, wet weather. Purple spots with yellow edges form , often on the veins on the top side of the leaves and along the stems. Pale gray fuzz can form on the under side of the leaves. The leaves will eventually become brittle and fall.
Treatment: The good news is that Downy Mildew often clears up with the weather. To reduce the chance of Downy Mildew, practice good garden sanitation and keep the rose plants well pruned for air circulation. As with other diseases, a dormant spray may help.
Rust: A Rust infection is easy to spot. Small orange pustules spots form on the undersides of the leaves. This fungus can also cause defoliation. Rust is most prevalent when nights are cool.
Treatment: Treatment of Rust is similar to treatment of Black Spot, above: Good sanitation and a preventative dormant spray after pruning. Once infected, remove all infected leaves and try Neem oil for control.
Mosaic Virus: Once a rose is infected with Rose Mosaic Virus, there’s not much to be done except check with the nursery for a replacement. Rose Mosaic Virus shows up as yellow mottling on leaves and deformed new growth. It can stunt growth or it can be a mild infection. If there are only a few affected leaves, the plant may continue growing and blooming fine. The really good news is that it won’t spread to your other roses.
Read Rose Growing Problems - Prevent Rose Problems Before They Occur, for advice on avoiding these diseases and other problems.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
What is Black Spot?
Black spot is a fungal disease (Diplocarpon rosae), that affects roses. It causes black spots on leaves, eventually causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop off. Besides looking unsightly, it can seriously weaken the rose plant. Ideal conditions include hot, humid or rainy summers and hot days with cool, damp nights.
Symptoms:
Somewhat circular black spots on leaves. They usually occur on the upper sides of leaves, but can also develop on the undersides.
The outer margins of the black circles are ragged or feathery and they are usually surrounded by a ring of yellow.
Spots begin on the lower foliage and move upward. They can appear as early as when the leaves first unfurl. These spots can enlarge and merge. Severally affected leaves often fall off the plants and left unchecked, the entire plant can defoliate.
The fungus can also infect young canes, causing dark purple or black blisters, and even the flowers may show some red spotting. Infected plants will set fewer flower buds and without leaves, the plant becomes stressed and is susceptible to even more problems.
Cultural Controls
Growing Conditions - Make the growing conditions less hospitable for black spot. Black spot is easier to prevent than to cure. The spores can remain in the soil and overwinter on leaves and stems, waiting for favorable conditions. They make contact with the rose by splashing up in drops of water.
Give the plant what it wants. This is true for avoiding any plant disease. A healthy, vigorous plant is less susceptible to problems. Roses prefer a sunny location with well-draining soil and regular weekly watering.
Air Flow - Provide good air circulation around and through your rose plants. Don't plant your roses too close to other plants. Prune to open the spaces between canes, if the plant gets too dense and air can not get through.
Proper Watering - Avoid getting the leaves wet, while watering. There's not much you can do about rain, but at least limit the time the leaves remain wet.
Plant resistant cultivars - Roses are often labeled for resistance, from highly resistant on down. While you are looking for black spot resistance, you might as well look for a rose that is also resistant to rust and powdery mildew. Rugosas, the newer shrub and ground cover roses and many of the Canadian Explorer Series, like John Cabot and William Baffin, show good resistance.
Sanitation - Remove any infected leaves and always do a thorough cleanup each fall. Remove and dispose of any remaining leaves, when you do your dormant pruning in late winter/early spring. Spores can remain on leaves and stems throughout and will reinfect whenever conditions are favorable. Within 10 days of the first symptoms, the disease has already started spreading. Spores can spread by water and wind.
Prune out any canes showing signs of infection. Prune 6 – 8 inches below the infection and only prune in dry weather. Disinfect your pruners with a 10% bleach solution or alcohol, between cuts.
Mulch - Apply a thick layer of mulch around the plants. Mulch will prevent water from splashing up on the plant and spreading spores.
Sprays for Treatment and Prevention
It is easier to prevent black spot than to cure it, but it is time-consuming.
If black spot is a reoccurring problem in your area, you may need to spray your plants weekly, starting in early spring.
Baking soda spray - Dissolve 1 teaspoon baking soda in 1-quart warm water. Add up to 1 teaspoon liquid soap. Spray leaves thoroughly. This mixture works better as a preventive than as a cure. Also offers some protection from powdery mildew.
Bordeaux Mix - This is a fungicide that contains copper sulfate and hydrated lime. It can be used as a powder or mixed with water and sprayed. Bordeaux mix also repels some insect pests, but it can burn plant leaves. It is generally used as a preventative in the spring, before plants leaf out.
Insecticidal soaps with added fungicide - These are basically some type of organic fungicide, often sulfur, added to regular insecticidal soap. The soap helps the fungicide adhere to the plant leaves and spread to coat them.
Neem Oil - Neem is an organic fungicide and pesticide, derived from the seeds of the neem tree. It gets inside the plant's system, so you don't need to worry about coating everything or reapplying after a rain. However, it can burn plant leaves in hot sun. You should not apply need oil within 2 weeks of using a product containing sulfur.
Sulfur - Sulfur both prevents and gets rid of fungus diseases. It is also used to control several insect pests. However it can be mildly toxic to humans and other animals. You should wear protective clothing when you spray it. It can also corrode metal, so use a plastic sprayer . And it can burn plants leaves in hot weather.
Sulfur comes as a finely ground powder. If you prefer to spray it on, look for one labeled as wettable, so that it will mix with water.
Black spot is a fungal disease (Diplocarpon rosae), that affects roses. It causes black spots on leaves, eventually causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop off. Besides looking unsightly, it can seriously weaken the rose plant. Ideal conditions include hot, humid or rainy summers and hot days with cool, damp nights.
Symptoms:
Somewhat circular black spots on leaves. They usually occur on the upper sides of leaves, but can also develop on the undersides.
The outer margins of the black circles are ragged or feathery and they are usually surrounded by a ring of yellow.
Spots begin on the lower foliage and move upward. They can appear as early as when the leaves first unfurl. These spots can enlarge and merge. Severally affected leaves often fall off the plants and left unchecked, the entire plant can defoliate.
The fungus can also infect young canes, causing dark purple or black blisters, and even the flowers may show some red spotting. Infected plants will set fewer flower buds and without leaves, the plant becomes stressed and is susceptible to even more problems.
Cultural Controls
Growing Conditions - Make the growing conditions less hospitable for black spot. Black spot is easier to prevent than to cure. The spores can remain in the soil and overwinter on leaves and stems, waiting for favorable conditions. They make contact with the rose by splashing up in drops of water.
Give the plant what it wants. This is true for avoiding any plant disease. A healthy, vigorous plant is less susceptible to problems. Roses prefer a sunny location with well-draining soil and regular weekly watering.
Air Flow - Provide good air circulation around and through your rose plants. Don't plant your roses too close to other plants. Prune to open the spaces between canes, if the plant gets too dense and air can not get through.
Proper Watering - Avoid getting the leaves wet, while watering. There's not much you can do about rain, but at least limit the time the leaves remain wet.
Plant resistant cultivars - Roses are often labeled for resistance, from highly resistant on down. While you are looking for black spot resistance, you might as well look for a rose that is also resistant to rust and powdery mildew. Rugosas, the newer shrub and ground cover roses and many of the Canadian Explorer Series, like John Cabot and William Baffin, show good resistance.
Sanitation - Remove any infected leaves and always do a thorough cleanup each fall. Remove and dispose of any remaining leaves, when you do your dormant pruning in late winter/early spring. Spores can remain on leaves and stems throughout and will reinfect whenever conditions are favorable. Within 10 days of the first symptoms, the disease has already started spreading. Spores can spread by water and wind.
Prune out any canes showing signs of infection. Prune 6 – 8 inches below the infection and only prune in dry weather. Disinfect your pruners with a 10% bleach solution or alcohol, between cuts.
Mulch - Apply a thick layer of mulch around the plants. Mulch will prevent water from splashing up on the plant and spreading spores.
Sprays for Treatment and Prevention
It is easier to prevent black spot than to cure it, but it is time-consuming.
If black spot is a reoccurring problem in your area, you may need to spray your plants weekly, starting in early spring.
Baking soda spray - Dissolve 1 teaspoon baking soda in 1-quart warm water. Add up to 1 teaspoon liquid soap. Spray leaves thoroughly. This mixture works better as a preventive than as a cure. Also offers some protection from powdery mildew.
Bordeaux Mix - This is a fungicide that contains copper sulfate and hydrated lime. It can be used as a powder or mixed with water and sprayed. Bordeaux mix also repels some insect pests, but it can burn plant leaves. It is generally used as a preventative in the spring, before plants leaf out.
Insecticidal soaps with added fungicide - These are basically some type of organic fungicide, often sulfur, added to regular insecticidal soap. The soap helps the fungicide adhere to the plant leaves and spread to coat them.
Neem Oil - Neem is an organic fungicide and pesticide, derived from the seeds of the neem tree. It gets inside the plant's system, so you don't need to worry about coating everything or reapplying after a rain. However, it can burn plant leaves in hot sun. You should not apply need oil within 2 weeks of using a product containing sulfur.
Sulfur - Sulfur both prevents and gets rid of fungus diseases. It is also used to control several insect pests. However it can be mildly toxic to humans and other animals. You should wear protective clothing when you spray it. It can also corrode metal, so use a plastic sprayer . And it can burn plants leaves in hot weather.
Sulfur comes as a finely ground powder. If you prefer to spray it on, look for one labeled as wettable, so that it will mix with water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a hardy shrub that belongs to the rose family. This striking plant, also known as plum leaf sand cherry, is valued for its reddish-purple foliage and pale pink blooms. Purple leaf sand cherry care involves regular pruning. Read on for tips on how to prune a purple leaf sand cherry.
When to Prune Plum Leaf Sand Cherries
The best time to prune plum leaf sand cherries is just before new growth emerges in spring. This timing ensures the plant has plenty of time to recover and produce gorgeous blooms for the coming season.
Pruning Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry pruning isn’t complicated. Prune the oldest stems first, removing at least one-third of growth down to within a few inches from the base. Additionally, cut damaged or dead growth at the base of the shrub. The branches will be sturdy, so be sure your cutting tool is sharp. When old and damaged growth has been removed, thin out wayward growth and branches that are rubbing or crossing other branches. If the plant looks a bit straggly, you can remove twigs to keep it tidy throughout the season.
Be sure to make each cut about 1/4-inch above a node or a point where one stem is growing from another. Lastly, snip off any suckers that form at the base of the plant. If the purple leaf sand cherry is badly overgrown or neglected, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting it nearly to the ground in late winter, shortly before the plant emerges from dormancy. Rake the area under the shrub after pruning. If you are pruning to remove diseased growth, dispose of the clippings carefully. Never place diseased debris in the compost pile.
Additional Purple Leaf Sand Cherry Care
Water purple leaf sand cherry regularly during the first growing season. Usually, one watering per week is ample, or whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Thereafter, water only during extended periods of hot, dry weather. One feeding every spring is sufficient for purple leaf sand cherry. Any balanced, general-purpose fertilizer is fine. Otherwise, plum leaf sand cherry is easy to get along with and requires little care. However, the plant is susceptible to a number of plant diseases such as:
Root rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf curl
Fire blight
Honey fungus
A sunny location, well-drained soil and adequate air circulation around plants are the best ways to avoid these moisture-related diseases.
Purple leaf sand cherry is also bothered by several pests, including:
Aphids
Japanese beetles
Leafhoppers
Scale
Caterpillars
Most insects can be controlled by blasting the affected leaves with a strong blast of water, or by spraying the foliage with insecticidal soap. Unfortunately, despite your best attempts, pests and disease may shorten the life span of purple leaf sand cherry.
When to Prune Plum Leaf Sand Cherries
The best time to prune plum leaf sand cherries is just before new growth emerges in spring. This timing ensures the plant has plenty of time to recover and produce gorgeous blooms for the coming season.
Pruning Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry pruning isn’t complicated. Prune the oldest stems first, removing at least one-third of growth down to within a few inches from the base. Additionally, cut damaged or dead growth at the base of the shrub. The branches will be sturdy, so be sure your cutting tool is sharp. When old and damaged growth has been removed, thin out wayward growth and branches that are rubbing or crossing other branches. If the plant looks a bit straggly, you can remove twigs to keep it tidy throughout the season.
Be sure to make each cut about 1/4-inch above a node or a point where one stem is growing from another. Lastly, snip off any suckers that form at the base of the plant. If the purple leaf sand cherry is badly overgrown or neglected, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting it nearly to the ground in late winter, shortly before the plant emerges from dormancy. Rake the area under the shrub after pruning. If you are pruning to remove diseased growth, dispose of the clippings carefully. Never place diseased debris in the compost pile.
Additional Purple Leaf Sand Cherry Care
Water purple leaf sand cherry regularly during the first growing season. Usually, one watering per week is ample, or whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Thereafter, water only during extended periods of hot, dry weather. One feeding every spring is sufficient for purple leaf sand cherry. Any balanced, general-purpose fertilizer is fine. Otherwise, plum leaf sand cherry is easy to get along with and requires little care. However, the plant is susceptible to a number of plant diseases such as:
Root rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf curl
Fire blight
Honey fungus
A sunny location, well-drained soil and adequate air circulation around plants are the best ways to avoid these moisture-related diseases.
Purple leaf sand cherry is also bothered by several pests, including:
Aphids
Japanese beetles
Leafhoppers
Scale
Caterpillars
Most insects can be controlled by blasting the affected leaves with a strong blast of water, or by spraying the foliage with insecticidal soap. Unfortunately, despite your best attempts, pests and disease may shorten the life span of purple leaf sand cherry.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
"Gather ye rosebuds while ye may," poet Robert Herrick tells us, but he doesn't mention how to make them open. Whether you received florist rose flowers or cut a selection of your own from your garden, warm water and shorter stems are two tricks to try.
Bye-Bye to Bacteria
Clean tools and containers allow cut rose flowers to open and last in a vase. Bacteria is not your friend when it's on or around cut roses. It plugs the flower stems and prevents regular water uptake. The result can be blooms that don't open or roses with bent necks. So wash tubs and vases with hot, soapy water. Then rinse them with a solution that is 1 part bleach and 10 parts water, and rinse them with water. Soak cutting tools in denatured alcohol, too, and keep the cutting blades sharp. Removing all foliage below the vase's water line prevents it from rotting and contaminating the water.
Garden Roses
One big difference between caring for florist roses and cut garden roses is that you decide when to take the latter. Rose blooms are most vigorous and long-lasting when cut in early morning, which is when they are full of moisture. It helps to give the ground a thorough watering the night before. Cut a rose flower only after its sepals have opened and turned downward. Sepals are the flower parts that look like green petals. If the sepals are wrapped tightly around a cut rosebud, the flower will not open. If a rose flower is of a variety typically has many petals, then wait until a few rows of petals are open before cutting that rose. Another trick for determining whether a rose flower is ready to cut is to squeeze it gently. If it feels soft and gives a little, it will likely open. Buds that are as hard as marbles won't open.
Water, Water Everywhere
Water makes the difference between a rose that opens and a rose that doesn't. When cutting flowers in your garden, have a bucket with you, and plunge each flower's stem in the bucket as soon as you cut it. If you buy or receive florist roses, immediately open the container, remove the wrapping and put the roses in water. Warm water helps roses open faster than they would otherwise, but lukewarm water results in a longer life for the flowers. Flower food added to water also helps blossoms open. Either use a commercial product or make your own, adding 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice and a few drops of bleach to 1 quart of water. Neither aspirin nor pennies in the water help roses open faster or last longer.
Water Changes and Stem Cuts
Rose stems need to be cut when you first arrange the flowers in a vase of water. Make the cuts under the water and at a diagonal. Only 1/2 to 1 inch of a stem needs to be taken off, but the shorter you cut a stem, the faster its rose is likely to open. Every few days, change the vase water and recut the stems. Leave the guard petals on each garden rose when you first cut it. The guard petals are the outer petals and are larger and thicker than the inner petals; sometimes the guard petals are discolored or streaked. If a rose does not open, remove its guard petals by pulling them gently from the flower's base.
Bye-Bye to Bacteria
Clean tools and containers allow cut rose flowers to open and last in a vase. Bacteria is not your friend when it's on or around cut roses. It plugs the flower stems and prevents regular water uptake. The result can be blooms that don't open or roses with bent necks. So wash tubs and vases with hot, soapy water. Then rinse them with a solution that is 1 part bleach and 10 parts water, and rinse them with water. Soak cutting tools in denatured alcohol, too, and keep the cutting blades sharp. Removing all foliage below the vase's water line prevents it from rotting and contaminating the water.
Garden Roses
One big difference between caring for florist roses and cut garden roses is that you decide when to take the latter. Rose blooms are most vigorous and long-lasting when cut in early morning, which is when they are full of moisture. It helps to give the ground a thorough watering the night before. Cut a rose flower only after its sepals have opened and turned downward. Sepals are the flower parts that look like green petals. If the sepals are wrapped tightly around a cut rosebud, the flower will not open. If a rose flower is of a variety typically has many petals, then wait until a few rows of petals are open before cutting that rose. Another trick for determining whether a rose flower is ready to cut is to squeeze it gently. If it feels soft and gives a little, it will likely open. Buds that are as hard as marbles won't open.
Water, Water Everywhere
Water makes the difference between a rose that opens and a rose that doesn't. When cutting flowers in your garden, have a bucket with you, and plunge each flower's stem in the bucket as soon as you cut it. If you buy or receive florist roses, immediately open the container, remove the wrapping and put the roses in water. Warm water helps roses open faster than they would otherwise, but lukewarm water results in a longer life for the flowers. Flower food added to water also helps blossoms open. Either use a commercial product or make your own, adding 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice and a few drops of bleach to 1 quart of water. Neither aspirin nor pennies in the water help roses open faster or last longer.
Water Changes and Stem Cuts
Rose stems need to be cut when you first arrange the flowers in a vase of water. Make the cuts under the water and at a diagonal. Only 1/2 to 1 inch of a stem needs to be taken off, but the shorter you cut a stem, the faster its rose is likely to open. Every few days, change the vase water and recut the stems. Leave the guard petals on each garden rose when you first cut it. The guard petals are the outer petals and are larger and thicker than the inner petals; sometimes the guard petals are discolored or streaked. If a rose does not open, remove its guard petals by pulling them gently from the flower's base.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Given ideal planting locations of full sun and well-drained soil, Knock Out roses (Rosa spp.) offer near-continuous blooms in exchange for minimal maintenance. From the original Knock Out rose (Rosa "Radrazz") to later varieties in the Knock Out group, simple, basic care keeps these roses looking their best.
Water Requirements
During their first year in the ground, Knock Out roses need regular water as roots become established. One inch of water per week from rainfall or supplemental watering sets a starting point, but a hands-on approach keeps watering on track. Test the soil about 3 inches down from the surface; it should be cool and damp. For established bushes, let the soil dry at that depth before you water. Knock Out leaves also give clear tips on when these drought-tolerant shrubs need a drink. Normally glossy, thirsty leaves lose their luster. Infrequent, thorough waterings suit these roses. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch helps keep roots cool and retains soil moisture.
Fertilizer Needs
Fertilizers are optional when it comes to Knock Out roses. Proper planting avoids added fertilizer in the hole, and normal garden soil meets their needs in future years. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost added each spring provides gentle, long-lasting nutrition. If desired, a slow-release rose fertilizer can be used. For example, apply 3/4 cup of a granular, 3-4-3 rose fertilizer per Knock Out rose every six weeks during the active growing season. Gently work the fertilizer into the soil around the shrub's base, and water the area well. Avoid fast-release, high-nitrogen fertilizers; they spur lanky growth and reduce blooms. Stop fertilizing two months before your area's first frost so the roses prepare for winter.
Pruning Procedures
Known as self-cleaning roses, Knock Outs drop old blossoms on their own after blooming, eliminating the need for deadheading and preparing the way for the next flush of flowers. Knock Outs grow 3 to 4 feet tall and wide in most climates, tripling in height after an annual pruning. The roses aren't fussy about techniques. Cut them back to 12 inches in height or one-third of your desired size, just as new growth begins. Use sharp, bypass pruners or bypass loppers -- even hedging shears work with these roses. Sterilize your pruner blades with household disinfectant before and after each bush, and wear protective clothing, including gloves, long sleeves and safety eyewear.
Pest and Disease Control
Diseases and insects rarely trouble Knock Out roses. The shrubs resist common rose diseases, including black spot and mildew, and eliminate the need for disease control beyond proper siting and care. Common garden pests, such as aphids and spider mites, occasionally may appear. A strong burst of water from your garden hose dislodges these pests and sends them on their way. Aphids generally cluster on stems below the blossoms, while spider mites stay hidden on the undersides of leaves. Target your spray where the intruders lie, and that's all the pest control Knock Outs generally need.
Winter Protection
Knock Out roses are reliably hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, with Sunny Knock Out (Rosa "Radsunny") hardy in USDA zone 4 as well. For gardeners pushing the envelope in cold climates with the Knock Out group, extra winter insulation helps protect the roses' crowns from winter damage. After the ground has frozen and the shrubs are dormant, mound mulch or oak leaves over their crowns to a depth of about 8 inches. Remove the mulch as soil warms in spring. Knock Out roses are grown on their own roots, so even when they die back to the ground in harsh winters, they spring back from the roots in their hardiness zones.
Water Requirements
During their first year in the ground, Knock Out roses need regular water as roots become established. One inch of water per week from rainfall or supplemental watering sets a starting point, but a hands-on approach keeps watering on track. Test the soil about 3 inches down from the surface; it should be cool and damp. For established bushes, let the soil dry at that depth before you water. Knock Out leaves also give clear tips on when these drought-tolerant shrubs need a drink. Normally glossy, thirsty leaves lose their luster. Infrequent, thorough waterings suit these roses. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch helps keep roots cool and retains soil moisture.
Fertilizer Needs
Fertilizers are optional when it comes to Knock Out roses. Proper planting avoids added fertilizer in the hole, and normal garden soil meets their needs in future years. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost added each spring provides gentle, long-lasting nutrition. If desired, a slow-release rose fertilizer can be used. For example, apply 3/4 cup of a granular, 3-4-3 rose fertilizer per Knock Out rose every six weeks during the active growing season. Gently work the fertilizer into the soil around the shrub's base, and water the area well. Avoid fast-release, high-nitrogen fertilizers; they spur lanky growth and reduce blooms. Stop fertilizing two months before your area's first frost so the roses prepare for winter.
Pruning Procedures
Known as self-cleaning roses, Knock Outs drop old blossoms on their own after blooming, eliminating the need for deadheading and preparing the way for the next flush of flowers. Knock Outs grow 3 to 4 feet tall and wide in most climates, tripling in height after an annual pruning. The roses aren't fussy about techniques. Cut them back to 12 inches in height or one-third of your desired size, just as new growth begins. Use sharp, bypass pruners or bypass loppers -- even hedging shears work with these roses. Sterilize your pruner blades with household disinfectant before and after each bush, and wear protective clothing, including gloves, long sleeves and safety eyewear.
Pest and Disease Control
Diseases and insects rarely trouble Knock Out roses. The shrubs resist common rose diseases, including black spot and mildew, and eliminate the need for disease control beyond proper siting and care. Common garden pests, such as aphids and spider mites, occasionally may appear. A strong burst of water from your garden hose dislodges these pests and sends them on their way. Aphids generally cluster on stems below the blossoms, while spider mites stay hidden on the undersides of leaves. Target your spray where the intruders lie, and that's all the pest control Knock Outs generally need.
Winter Protection
Knock Out roses are reliably hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, with Sunny Knock Out (Rosa "Radsunny") hardy in USDA zone 4 as well. For gardeners pushing the envelope in cold climates with the Knock Out group, extra winter insulation helps protect the roses' crowns from winter damage. After the ground has frozen and the shrubs are dormant, mound mulch or oak leaves over their crowns to a depth of about 8 inches. Remove the mulch as soil warms in spring. Knock Out roses are grown on their own roots, so even when they die back to the ground in harsh winters, they spring back from the roots in their hardiness zones.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Read on for the safest way to kill rose bugs without the pesticides in the air around your home.
Step 1
Put 1 tsp. of soap into a spray bottle filled with water.
Step 2
Mix soap and water by shaking the bottle.
Step 3
Spray mixture directly on the plants with and without the bugs. The bugs will die, and not spread to the other plants if you spray them all.
Step 1
Put 1 tsp. of soap into a spray bottle filled with water.
Step 2
Mix soap and water by shaking the bottle.
Step 3
Spray mixture directly on the plants with and without the bugs. The bugs will die, and not spread to the other plants if you spray them all.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose (Rosa spp.) cuttings root slowly and with little indication on top of the soil that there's anything going on below it. The first sign that the process is progressing – the appearance of new foliage -- comes months after you plant the cutting. It will be several more months until the cutting has taken root enough to be transplanted outdoors. It can be a frustrating wait for the impatient, but it's the best way to get a new rosebush that's identical to the parent plant.
The Best of Times
Roses, depending on the species, cultivar or variety, are hardy in all U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones. Know the zones for your particular plant, because the best time to take a rose cutting depends largely on climate. Typically, cuttings are ready in late fall, just after the last of the season's flowers fade and the weather cools. Cuttings can be taken in spring, as long as you wait until the stem is no longer soft and green.
Plan Ahead
Once the cutting is removed from the bush, work quickly so it doesn't dry out. Prepare in advance before you head out to the garden: Be sure your pruning shears are razor sharp and disinfected. Soak them for five minutes in a solution of 1 part bleach and 3 parts water; rinse them with water and allow them to air dry before using them. Fill a 4-inch nursery pot that has drainage holes in the bottom with a combination of 3 parts sand and 1 part peat moss and pour water over the mixture until it is saturated. Use your finger or a pencil to create a 3- to 4-inch deep planting hole, and set the pot aside to drain. Grab a moist paper towel and a plastic produce bag as you head out to the garden.
Be Choosy
Look for a rose stem that has recently bloomed. Measure 6 inches, from the tip of the stem back toward the main stem, and make a 45-degree angled cut to remove it from the bush. Immediately wrap the stem in the moist paper towel and enclose it in the bag. Do not allow the cutting to dry out for even a short amount of time.
Plant It
Remove all the foliage from the bottom part of the stem, and allow three or four leaves to remain at the top. If there are hips or faded flowers, remove those as well. Use a small, sharp knife to scrape the outer layer of bark from the bottom inch of stem. Dip that portion of the stem in water, and then roll it in rooting hormone powder until it's covered. Immediately stick the hormone-tipped end of the cutting into the prepared hole in the planting medium and use your hands to pack the medium around the cutting.
Care While Rooting
Rose cuttings require humidity to produce roots, so mist the plant with water from a spray bottle. Insert four wood craft sticks, equally spaced, into the planting medium around the inside perimeter of the pot. Slide the pot into a plastic bag, adjusting the plastic so that the sticks hold it away from the cutting. Secure the bag and place the pot in an outdoor area where there's filtered sunlight. Open the bag for about 15 minutes every other day to allow air to circulate. Remove the bag when you notice new foliage. Water the soil to keep it moist but otherwise do not disturb the cutting until it's ready to be planted in a permanent spot outdoors -- typically one year from taking the cutting.
The Best of Times
Roses, depending on the species, cultivar or variety, are hardy in all U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones. Know the zones for your particular plant, because the best time to take a rose cutting depends largely on climate. Typically, cuttings are ready in late fall, just after the last of the season's flowers fade and the weather cools. Cuttings can be taken in spring, as long as you wait until the stem is no longer soft and green.
Plan Ahead
Once the cutting is removed from the bush, work quickly so it doesn't dry out. Prepare in advance before you head out to the garden: Be sure your pruning shears are razor sharp and disinfected. Soak them for five minutes in a solution of 1 part bleach and 3 parts water; rinse them with water and allow them to air dry before using them. Fill a 4-inch nursery pot that has drainage holes in the bottom with a combination of 3 parts sand and 1 part peat moss and pour water over the mixture until it is saturated. Use your finger or a pencil to create a 3- to 4-inch deep planting hole, and set the pot aside to drain. Grab a moist paper towel and a plastic produce bag as you head out to the garden.
Be Choosy
Look for a rose stem that has recently bloomed. Measure 6 inches, from the tip of the stem back toward the main stem, and make a 45-degree angled cut to remove it from the bush. Immediately wrap the stem in the moist paper towel and enclose it in the bag. Do not allow the cutting to dry out for even a short amount of time.
Plant It
Remove all the foliage from the bottom part of the stem, and allow three or four leaves to remain at the top. If there are hips or faded flowers, remove those as well. Use a small, sharp knife to scrape the outer layer of bark from the bottom inch of stem. Dip that portion of the stem in water, and then roll it in rooting hormone powder until it's covered. Immediately stick the hormone-tipped end of the cutting into the prepared hole in the planting medium and use your hands to pack the medium around the cutting.
Care While Rooting
Rose cuttings require humidity to produce roots, so mist the plant with water from a spray bottle. Insert four wood craft sticks, equally spaced, into the planting medium around the inside perimeter of the pot. Slide the pot into a plastic bag, adjusting the plastic so that the sticks hold it away from the cutting. Secure the bag and place the pot in an outdoor area where there's filtered sunlight. Open the bag for about 15 minutes every other day to allow air to circulate. Remove the bag when you notice new foliage. Water the soil to keep it moist but otherwise do not disturb the cutting until it's ready to be planted in a permanent spot outdoors -- typically one year from taking the cutting.
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