文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Rhododendron ferrugineum L.
Common Names
Alpenrose, Snow Rose, Rusty-leaved Alpenrose, Alpine Rose
Synonyms
Azalea ferruginea, Chamaerhododendron ferrugineum, Plinthocroma ferrugineum
Scientific Classification
Family: Ericaceae
Subfamily: Ericoideae
Tribe: Rhodoreae
Genus: Rhododendron
Flower
Color: Pinkish-red
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Rhododendron ferrugineum is an evergreen shrub that grows up to 3.3 feet (1 m) tall and produces clusters of pinkish-red, bell-shaped flowers throughout the summer. The undersides of the leaves are covered in rust-brown spots, which give the species its scientific name.
How to Grow and Care
Once properly located in the planting bed, water thoroughly and cover with an organic mulch which will break down to supply nutrients as it decomposes. A pine bark covering applied at 2 inches (5 cm) is thought to inhibit fungi that cause root rot. Do not mulch with peat moss, as it is difficult to rewet after it has dried out. Proper mulching will decrease the need for future care.
Rhododendron care includes a yearly fertilization which is best applied in fall, following a hard freeze or in early spring. Use a fertilizer for acid loving plants, such as organic cottonseed meal. The organic material you have worked into the soil previously will break down to provided some of the necessary nutrients.
Consistently moist soil is needed for proper care, but too much water creates problems for the growing Rhododendron. When leaves curl and twist, this indicates that water is needed immediately. The Rhododendron bush should not be allowed to go through the stress of wilting.
Origin
It is distributed in the Alps, Pyrenees, Jura and northern Apennines.
Rhododendron ferrugineum L.
Common Names
Alpenrose, Snow Rose, Rusty-leaved Alpenrose, Alpine Rose
Synonyms
Azalea ferruginea, Chamaerhododendron ferrugineum, Plinthocroma ferrugineum
Scientific Classification
Family: Ericaceae
Subfamily: Ericoideae
Tribe: Rhodoreae
Genus: Rhododendron
Flower
Color: Pinkish-red
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Rhododendron ferrugineum is an evergreen shrub that grows up to 3.3 feet (1 m) tall and produces clusters of pinkish-red, bell-shaped flowers throughout the summer. The undersides of the leaves are covered in rust-brown spots, which give the species its scientific name.
How to Grow and Care
Once properly located in the planting bed, water thoroughly and cover with an organic mulch which will break down to supply nutrients as it decomposes. A pine bark covering applied at 2 inches (5 cm) is thought to inhibit fungi that cause root rot. Do not mulch with peat moss, as it is difficult to rewet after it has dried out. Proper mulching will decrease the need for future care.
Rhododendron care includes a yearly fertilization which is best applied in fall, following a hard freeze or in early spring. Use a fertilizer for acid loving plants, such as organic cottonseed meal. The organic material you have worked into the soil previously will break down to provided some of the necessary nutrients.
Consistently moist soil is needed for proper care, but too much water creates problems for the growing Rhododendron. When leaves curl and twist, this indicates that water is needed immediately. The Rhododendron bush should not be allowed to go through the stress of wilting.
Origin
It is distributed in the Alps, Pyrenees, Jura and northern Apennines.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Aeonium arboreum (L.) Webb & Berthel
Common Names
Thickleaf Aeonium, Pinwheel Desert Rose, Fisiulera, Tree Aeonium, Tree Anemone, Houseleek Tree, Irish Rose
Synonyms
Sempervivum arboreum, Aeonium korneliuslemsii
Scientific Classification
Family: Crassulaceae
Subfamily: Sedoideae
Tribe: Sedeae
Subtribe: Sedinae
Genus: Aeonium
Description
Aeonium arboreum is a tree-like succulent which forms branched stems up to 3 feet (90 cm) tall. The leaves are up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and spoon-shaped and shiny green. The leaf rosettes are arranged at the ends of its branches. These plants grow quickly and produce small, star-like, yellow flowers on racemes from late winter through early spring. Flowers stems emerge from the center of the rosettes. The rosette die after flowering.
Aeonium arboreum – Tree Aeonium Houseleek Tree
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 10a to 11b: from 30 °F (−1.1 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in very dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss. Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75˚F / 18–24˚C) and damp. In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot… – See more at: How to Grow and Care for Aeonium.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
Origin
Native to North Africa and Canary Islands.
Subspecies, Varieties, Forms, Cultivars and Hybrids
Aeonium arboreum var. albovariegatum
Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum
Aeonium arboreum var. rubrolineatum
Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkopf’
Aeonium arboreum (L.) Webb & Berthel
Common Names
Thickleaf Aeonium, Pinwheel Desert Rose, Fisiulera, Tree Aeonium, Tree Anemone, Houseleek Tree, Irish Rose
Synonyms
Sempervivum arboreum, Aeonium korneliuslemsii
Scientific Classification
Family: Crassulaceae
Subfamily: Sedoideae
Tribe: Sedeae
Subtribe: Sedinae
Genus: Aeonium
Description
Aeonium arboreum is a tree-like succulent which forms branched stems up to 3 feet (90 cm) tall. The leaves are up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and spoon-shaped and shiny green. The leaf rosettes are arranged at the ends of its branches. These plants grow quickly and produce small, star-like, yellow flowers on racemes from late winter through early spring. Flowers stems emerge from the center of the rosettes. The rosette die after flowering.
Aeonium arboreum – Tree Aeonium Houseleek Tree
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zone 10a to 11b: from 30 °F (−1.1 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in very dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss. Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75˚F / 18–24˚C) and damp. In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot… – See more at: How to Grow and Care for Aeonium.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
Origin
Native to North Africa and Canary Islands.
Subspecies, Varieties, Forms, Cultivars and Hybrids
Aeonium arboreum var. albovariegatum
Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum
Aeonium arboreum var. rubrolineatum
Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkopf’
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2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Aeonium arboreum (L.) Webb & Berthel
Common Names
Thickleaf Aeonium, Pinwheel Desert Rose, Fisiulera, Tree Aeonium, Tree Anemone, Houseleek Tree, Irish Rose
Synonyms
Sempervivum arboreum, Aeonium korneliuslemsii
Scientific Classification
Family: Crassulaceae
Subfamily: Sedoideae
Tribe: Sedeae
Subtribe: Sedinae
Genus: Aeonium
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Mid spring to early summer
Description
Aeonium arboreum is a medium-green succulent which forms branched stems, up to 3 feet (90 cm) tall, looking like a miniature tree. Rosettes are formed at the ends of the stems. They grow quickly and produce abundant yellow flowers form long clusters in mid spring to early summer.
How to Grow and Care
Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in very dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss. Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75˚F / 18–24˚C) and damp. In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot… – See more at: How to Grow and Care for Aeonium.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
Origin
Native to North Africa and Canary Islands.
Aeonium arboreum (L.) Webb & Berthel
Common Names
Thickleaf Aeonium, Pinwheel Desert Rose, Fisiulera, Tree Aeonium, Tree Anemone, Houseleek Tree, Irish Rose
Synonyms
Sempervivum arboreum, Aeonium korneliuslemsii
Scientific Classification
Family: Crassulaceae
Subfamily: Sedoideae
Tribe: Sedeae
Subtribe: Sedinae
Genus: Aeonium
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Mid spring to early summer
Description
Aeonium arboreum is a medium-green succulent which forms branched stems, up to 3 feet (90 cm) tall, looking like a miniature tree. Rosettes are formed at the ends of the stems. They grow quickly and produce abundant yellow flowers form long clusters in mid spring to early summer.
How to Grow and Care
Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in very dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss. Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75˚F / 18–24˚C) and damp. In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot… – See more at: How to Grow and Care for Aeonium.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
Origin
Native to North Africa and Canary Islands.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A mature Echeveria plant, with waxy leaves resembling a rose, is a beautiful sight to behold. Although they originate from Mexico and Central America, these drought-tolerant plants can be grown from seed in many parts of the world. By following the process outlined below, advanced and beginner gardening enthusiasts can grow their own Echeveria plants from seed.
Preparing Seeds for Planting
Gardeners must ensure that they use fresh Echeveria seeds to grow their plants. Old seeds germinate rarely, and they often fail to grow well. Once gardeners have sourced suitable seeds, they mix these seeds with approximately twice the volume of fine sand and stir the mixture gently with a toothpick. Echeveria seeds are black and tiny, so the resulting mixture resembles a fine, multi-colored powder.
Planting Seeds
Successful Echeveria plants require plant pots with an average diameter measuring 4 inches (10 cm). These pots should be filled with a well-draining, soil-free potting mix. Gardeners purchase this potting mix from an online or brick and mortar retailer, or they can make their own. Each pot requires firm tapping against a bench or table to settle the potting mix. The gardener gathers a pinch of sand and seed mixture between finger and thumb and carefully sprinkles it over the soil, so that each pot has a sparse covering.
Germinating Seeds
To encourage germination, gardeners place their pots with the Echeveria seeds in a tray filled with water. This setup allows the soil in each pot to absorb water from the bottom. The tray is placed in a location with bright but indirect light at a temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). It is important to maintain the correct the temperature, as Echeveria seeds do not germinate above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). The pots can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the surrounding air humid. Every so often, gardeners add water to the tray to keep the potting mix moist.
How to Spot Signs of Germination
Around three weeks after the seeds are planted, tiny leaves should start to appear. Once this happens, gardeners remove the plastic covering to give the tiny seedlings access to fresh air. They must watch out for fungal infections, which are common in Echeveria seedlings during the first two months of growth. If any fungus is visible, gardeners should treat all their pots with fungicide.
How to Care
When the Echeveria seedlings have grown to fill their pots, they must be moved into larger pots. A pot that is slightly larger than each plant’s root ball is the ideal size, since a large volume of potting mix can hold too much moisture and pose a risk to rotting in the ground. Adult Echeveria plants require less water than seedlings, and they are watered only when their potting mix feels dry to the touch. Echeveria plants also require little fertilizer; a dose of dilute liquid fertilizer at the beginning of spring is enough to fuel their growth. As Echeveria are related to cacti, they grow well with specialist cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. Although these plants can thrive outdoors during the summer, they do not like cold temperatures. Gardeners residing in places that experience frost should bring these plants inside during the winter months.
Conclusion
Growing Echeveria from seed is a rewarding activity. As long as the seeds are fresh and the conditions are right, gardeners soon see fresh green leaves where once there were only a few Echeveria seeds.
Preparing Seeds for Planting
Gardeners must ensure that they use fresh Echeveria seeds to grow their plants. Old seeds germinate rarely, and they often fail to grow well. Once gardeners have sourced suitable seeds, they mix these seeds with approximately twice the volume of fine sand and stir the mixture gently with a toothpick. Echeveria seeds are black and tiny, so the resulting mixture resembles a fine, multi-colored powder.
Planting Seeds
Successful Echeveria plants require plant pots with an average diameter measuring 4 inches (10 cm). These pots should be filled with a well-draining, soil-free potting mix. Gardeners purchase this potting mix from an online or brick and mortar retailer, or they can make their own. Each pot requires firm tapping against a bench or table to settle the potting mix. The gardener gathers a pinch of sand and seed mixture between finger and thumb and carefully sprinkles it over the soil, so that each pot has a sparse covering.
Germinating Seeds
To encourage germination, gardeners place their pots with the Echeveria seeds in a tray filled with water. This setup allows the soil in each pot to absorb water from the bottom. The tray is placed in a location with bright but indirect light at a temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). It is important to maintain the correct the temperature, as Echeveria seeds do not germinate above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). The pots can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the surrounding air humid. Every so often, gardeners add water to the tray to keep the potting mix moist.
How to Spot Signs of Germination
Around three weeks after the seeds are planted, tiny leaves should start to appear. Once this happens, gardeners remove the plastic covering to give the tiny seedlings access to fresh air. They must watch out for fungal infections, which are common in Echeveria seedlings during the first two months of growth. If any fungus is visible, gardeners should treat all their pots with fungicide.
How to Care
When the Echeveria seedlings have grown to fill their pots, they must be moved into larger pots. A pot that is slightly larger than each plant’s root ball is the ideal size, since a large volume of potting mix can hold too much moisture and pose a risk to rotting in the ground. Adult Echeveria plants require less water than seedlings, and they are watered only when their potting mix feels dry to the touch. Echeveria plants also require little fertilizer; a dose of dilute liquid fertilizer at the beginning of spring is enough to fuel their growth. As Echeveria are related to cacti, they grow well with specialist cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. Although these plants can thrive outdoors during the summer, they do not like cold temperatures. Gardeners residing in places that experience frost should bring these plants inside during the winter months.
Conclusion
Growing Echeveria from seed is a rewarding activity. As long as the seeds are fresh and the conditions are right, gardeners soon see fresh green leaves where once there were only a few Echeveria seeds.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Christmas Cactus is a jungle cactus that prefers humidity and moisture, unlike its standard cactus cousins, which require a warm, arid climate. A winter-bloomer, Christmas Cactus displays flowers in shades of red, lavender, rose, purple, white, peach, cream and orange, depending on the variety. These prolific growers eventually need to be repotted. Repotting Christmas Cactus isn’t complicated, but the key is knowing when and how to repot a Christmas Cactus.
When to Repot
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas Cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming.
Don’t rush to repot Christmas Cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant.
Repotting Christmas Cactus every 3 to 4 years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot
Here are some Christmas Cactus potting tips that will help you find success:
Take your time because repotting a Christmas Cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand.
Repot Christmas Cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas Cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air.
Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water.
Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch (2.5 cm) below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately.
Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care routine.
When to Repot
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas Cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming.
Don’t rush to repot Christmas Cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant.
Repotting Christmas Cactus every 3 to 4 years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot
Here are some Christmas Cactus potting tips that will help you find success:
Take your time because repotting a Christmas Cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand.
Repot Christmas Cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas Cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air.
Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water.
Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch (2.5 cm) below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately.
Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care routine.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Adenium obesum also known as Desert Rose, is a striking plant with swollen succulent stems and deep red flowers. The plant is deciduous in cooler winters, but it can be kept in leaf provided there is sufficient warmth and light water. There is no part of these plants that doesn’t command interest, from the dramatically swollen stems on older plants to the bright flowers to the tight clusters of narrow, green leaves.
Beware, though, the sap of the Desert Rose is poisonous and should never come into contact with children or pets. If you get sap on yourself while handling the plant, wash your hands immediately.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring. Reduce water in the winter, but keep hydrated enough to retain its leaves.
Temperature: Keep at least 50ºF (10ºC) at all times; if you keep temperatures of 60ºF (16ºC) or higher during the winter, the plant may retain its leaves.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Fertilize during spring and summer with controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions.
Propagation
Typically by seed. If your plant develops a seed pod, plant the seeds as soon as possible after the pod ripens to maximize chances of germination. The Desert Rose can be propagated from branch cuttings, but these plants often fail to develop the characteristic (and highly desired) bulbous stem.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the plant from the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide and antibacterial solution. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
These are not difficult plants to grow well, provided they get enough sunlight and warmth. Like all succulents, they cannot tolerate sitting in water, and if you err, do it on the side of too little water. Use a specialized soil mix designed for cacti and succulents.
Beware, though, the sap of the Desert Rose is poisonous and should never come into contact with children or pets. If you get sap on yourself while handling the plant, wash your hands immediately.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring. Reduce water in the winter, but keep hydrated enough to retain its leaves.
Temperature: Keep at least 50ºF (10ºC) at all times; if you keep temperatures of 60ºF (16ºC) or higher during the winter, the plant may retain its leaves.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Fertilize during spring and summer with controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions.
Propagation
Typically by seed. If your plant develops a seed pod, plant the seeds as soon as possible after the pod ripens to maximize chances of germination. The Desert Rose can be propagated from branch cuttings, but these plants often fail to develop the characteristic (and highly desired) bulbous stem.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the plant from the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide and antibacterial solution. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
These are not difficult plants to grow well, provided they get enough sunlight and warmth. Like all succulents, they cannot tolerate sitting in water, and if you err, do it on the side of too little water. Use a specialized soil mix designed for cacti and succulents.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Portulaca is a genus of the flowering plant family Portulacaceae, comprising about 40-100 species found in the tropics and warm temperate regions. They are also known as Purslane, Sun Plant, Rose Moss and Wax Pink. Common Purslane (P. oleracea) is widely considered an edible plant, and in some areas an invasive type of weed. Purslane can be eaten raw or cooked, and lends itself to stir fry dishes.
Members of the Portulaca genus are relatively easy to grow hardy or half hardy annuals that reach from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) in height. They carry succulent leaves and bloom from summer to the second half of autumn and carry cup shaped flowers; these may be of yellow, red, pink or white.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sunlight
Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering, but let dry between watering. Portulaca does not like wet conditions and will rot in constantly wet soil.
Soil: Well-drained soil is the best.
Fertilizer: An application of a balanced slow release fertilize with minor elements every 6 months.
General Care
Portulaca plants tolerate many kinds of soil but prefer sandy, well-drained soil and love the full sunlight. These plants are excellent for high heat and drought tolerance, and will seed and spread themselves very well. Some control methods may be needed to keep Portulaca plants from becoming invasive to areas where they are not wanted. These wonderful plants do spread easily and very well. Portulaca species such as Purslane require no attention at all when growing and flowering; however you should remove them from the garden before Portulaca have chance to set seed as they may take over the garden. You do not need to water often for proper Portulaca care. The cylindrical foliage of the Portulaca plants retains moisture very well, thus, regular watering is not needed. When they are watered, just a light watering will do, as their root zone is very shallow.
The seeds of Purslane and other Portulaca members should be sown on the soil surface following the last frost of spring. Ideally Purslane should be grown in a sunny part of the garden and Portulaca genus members thrive in hot areas. The soil that Purslane grows in should be sandy and poor with a pH of 5.5 to 7.
If starting Purslane indoors then start about one and a half months in advance. You first need to imbibe Purslane seeds by placing within soil in a plastic bag and placing in the fridge for about 15 days. Once finished, place the soil /seeds in light and germinate at 70 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 30 degrees Celsius). It typically takes about one to three weeks for Purslane seeds to germinate. Once ready transfer into the garden at from 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart (depending on the size of the Portulaca species). This should be done towards the end of spring.
Members of the Portulaca genus are relatively easy to grow hardy or half hardy annuals that reach from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) in height. They carry succulent leaves and bloom from summer to the second half of autumn and carry cup shaped flowers; these may be of yellow, red, pink or white.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sunlight
Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering, but let dry between watering. Portulaca does not like wet conditions and will rot in constantly wet soil.
Soil: Well-drained soil is the best.
Fertilizer: An application of a balanced slow release fertilize with minor elements every 6 months.
General Care
Portulaca plants tolerate many kinds of soil but prefer sandy, well-drained soil and love the full sunlight. These plants are excellent for high heat and drought tolerance, and will seed and spread themselves very well. Some control methods may be needed to keep Portulaca plants from becoming invasive to areas where they are not wanted. These wonderful plants do spread easily and very well. Portulaca species such as Purslane require no attention at all when growing and flowering; however you should remove them from the garden before Portulaca have chance to set seed as they may take over the garden. You do not need to water often for proper Portulaca care. The cylindrical foliage of the Portulaca plants retains moisture very well, thus, regular watering is not needed. When they are watered, just a light watering will do, as their root zone is very shallow.
The seeds of Purslane and other Portulaca members should be sown on the soil surface following the last frost of spring. Ideally Purslane should be grown in a sunny part of the garden and Portulaca genus members thrive in hot areas. The soil that Purslane grows in should be sandy and poor with a pH of 5.5 to 7.
If starting Purslane indoors then start about one and a half months in advance. You first need to imbibe Purslane seeds by placing within soil in a plastic bag and placing in the fridge for about 15 days. Once finished, place the soil /seeds in light and germinate at 70 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 30 degrees Celsius). It typically takes about one to three weeks for Purslane seeds to germinate. Once ready transfer into the garden at from 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart (depending on the size of the Portulaca species). This should be done towards the end of spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you see a Rose Cactus (Pereskia) while it is dormant in the winter, you’ll have no trouble believing it’s in the cactus family. Leaves drop off in cold weather, revealing the bare green stem armed with the same kind of spines you’ll see in Rose Cactus’ succulent desert relatives. In summer, when bright green 8-inch-(20 cm)-long leaves and pink, white, yellow or coral flowers cover the stems, it looks like a broadleaf shrub. The genus Pereskia is native to South and Central America and has about 24 species.
Plant Description
Most Pereskias have woody, upright growth, but some scramble in a vine-like manner, using hooked spines to support themselves. Spines emerge from wooly hairs where the leaf joins the stem. Flowers are followed by fleshy yellow or orange fruits that attract birds. Species of Rose Cactus vary in how tall they are and how vigorously they grow. The Wax Rose Cactus (Pereskia grandifolia), native to Brazil, has pink flowers and grows 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) tall. Another commonly grown species with fragrant white, pink or yellow flowers is sometimes called Lemon Vine (Pereskia aculeata). It has a clambering growth habit. Rose Cacti grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, where you can trellis them or keep them pruned back as a shorter shrubby plant. In USDA zones below 10, grow Rose Cactus as a container plant that you can move indoors in winter.
Relationship to Other Cacti
Rose Cactus is regarded as a primitive cactus that gives some idea of what the ancestors of succulent leafless cacti might look like. The stems and leaves store water to some degree, and spine patterns are similar. They possess most of the water-use adaptations that allow succulent leafless cacti to succeed. Rose Cactus has shallow root systems to allow quick water uptake, they slow water loss by closing their breathing holes called stomata and are capable of using crassulacean acid metabolism during hot, dry conditions. These adaptations allow their use in drought-tolerant and xeriscape gardens, giving the lush appearance of large green leaves even under tough conditions.
Cultivation
Use a rich, well-drained soil for Rose Cactus. The University of Oklahoma recommends a mix of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part loam and 2 parts sand or perlite. During warm months when plants are actively growing, keep the soil moist. Plants tolerate drier conditions but won’t be as leafy. During winter dormancy, give enough water to keep the stem from wrinkling. Rose Cactus seems to need winter dormancy for flowering the next season. Plants grow in full sun or filtered shade. For overwintering indoors, provide plants with bright light. Prune plants to keep them to the desired size.
Propagation
Grow Rose Cactus from seeds or from cuttings. Sow seeds in spring in a mix of half peat, half perlite, and keep the growing medium moist. Seeds germinate in 21 to 30 days. Take cuttings from young stems that have begun to harden. Don’t let the cuttings dry, but put them immediately into sand or the mix used for seeds. Put the cuttings in bright light rather than direct sunlight to root. Rose Cactus is often used as rootstock for grafting slower-growing succulent cactus because of its vigorous growth.
Plant Description
Most Pereskias have woody, upright growth, but some scramble in a vine-like manner, using hooked spines to support themselves. Spines emerge from wooly hairs where the leaf joins the stem. Flowers are followed by fleshy yellow or orange fruits that attract birds. Species of Rose Cactus vary in how tall they are and how vigorously they grow. The Wax Rose Cactus (Pereskia grandifolia), native to Brazil, has pink flowers and grows 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) tall. Another commonly grown species with fragrant white, pink or yellow flowers is sometimes called Lemon Vine (Pereskia aculeata). It has a clambering growth habit. Rose Cacti grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, where you can trellis them or keep them pruned back as a shorter shrubby plant. In USDA zones below 10, grow Rose Cactus as a container plant that you can move indoors in winter.
Relationship to Other Cacti
Rose Cactus is regarded as a primitive cactus that gives some idea of what the ancestors of succulent leafless cacti might look like. The stems and leaves store water to some degree, and spine patterns are similar. They possess most of the water-use adaptations that allow succulent leafless cacti to succeed. Rose Cactus has shallow root systems to allow quick water uptake, they slow water loss by closing their breathing holes called stomata and are capable of using crassulacean acid metabolism during hot, dry conditions. These adaptations allow their use in drought-tolerant and xeriscape gardens, giving the lush appearance of large green leaves even under tough conditions.
Cultivation
Use a rich, well-drained soil for Rose Cactus. The University of Oklahoma recommends a mix of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part loam and 2 parts sand or perlite. During warm months when plants are actively growing, keep the soil moist. Plants tolerate drier conditions but won’t be as leafy. During winter dormancy, give enough water to keep the stem from wrinkling. Rose Cactus seems to need winter dormancy for flowering the next season. Plants grow in full sun or filtered shade. For overwintering indoors, provide plants with bright light. Prune plants to keep them to the desired size.
Propagation
Grow Rose Cactus from seeds or from cuttings. Sow seeds in spring in a mix of half peat, half perlite, and keep the growing medium moist. Seeds germinate in 21 to 30 days. Take cuttings from young stems that have begun to harden. Don’t let the cuttings dry, but put them immediately into sand or the mix used for seeds. Put the cuttings in bright light rather than direct sunlight to root. Rose Cactus is often used as rootstock for grafting slower-growing succulent cactus because of its vigorous growth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’, commonly called Black Rose, is an ornamental succulent grown for its purplish-black foliage, which is arranged in a rosette shape. It grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, where it adds year-round visual interest to garden beds. Although typically problem-free, Black Rose plants may sometimes drop leaves. Most causes are temporary or avoidable, although some may indicate a serious issue that must be addressed to save the plant’s life.
Seasonal Dormancy
Black Rose plants grow actively in spring and early summer and from fall into early winter. They enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems, or growing tips, and roots. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. You don’t need to do anything except wait and water the plant occasionally so the stem doesn’t dry out.
Cultural Problems
Cultural problems can cause massive damage to Black Rose plants, including leaf loss. Soggy soil and over-watering are perhaps the most common and serious cultural issues for Black Rose plants because too much water will drown the roots and may lead to root rot, particularly during cold weather. Temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit will also badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 100 F will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Growing Black Rose plants in a fast-draining bed with light afternoon shade in hot, dry inland areas will help limit stress-related leaf loss, as will providing cover during cold or frosty weather.
Disease Damage
Root rot strikes when Black Rose plants are in cold, wet soil. It causes mushy, blackened stems and a general decline in the plant’s appearance and vigor, as well as leaf drop. Little can be done to help Black Rose plants afflicted with root rot, so prevention is key. Plant them in a bed or pot with gritty, fast-draining soil and provide adequate sun exposure to help keep the soil warm and dry. If symptoms of root rot appear, such as soft spots on the stem or minor leaf loss, stop all watering for several weeks to see if the problem will correct itself. If the symptoms persist and worsen, the plant may need to be replaced.
Pest Infestations
Serious infestations of mealybugs and spider mites may cause foliage loss in Black Rose plants, although it is rare in healthy, unstressed plants. Accompanying symptoms include discolored leaves, stem dieback and sticky or cottony reside between the leaves. Infestations of either type of pest can be treated with a liberal application of ready-to-use insecticidal soap applied to the tops and undersides of the leaves at seven- to 10-day intervals. Proper care will help prevent serious pest infestations in Black Rose plants, as will planting them in a bug-free site away from areas where infestations have previously occurred.
Seasonal Dormancy
Black Rose plants grow actively in spring and early summer and from fall into early winter. They enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems, or growing tips, and roots. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. You don’t need to do anything except wait and water the plant occasionally so the stem doesn’t dry out.
Cultural Problems
Cultural problems can cause massive damage to Black Rose plants, including leaf loss. Soggy soil and over-watering are perhaps the most common and serious cultural issues for Black Rose plants because too much water will drown the roots and may lead to root rot, particularly during cold weather. Temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit will also badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 100 F will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Growing Black Rose plants in a fast-draining bed with light afternoon shade in hot, dry inland areas will help limit stress-related leaf loss, as will providing cover during cold or frosty weather.
Disease Damage
Root rot strikes when Black Rose plants are in cold, wet soil. It causes mushy, blackened stems and a general decline in the plant’s appearance and vigor, as well as leaf drop. Little can be done to help Black Rose plants afflicted with root rot, so prevention is key. Plant them in a bed or pot with gritty, fast-draining soil and provide adequate sun exposure to help keep the soil warm and dry. If symptoms of root rot appear, such as soft spots on the stem or minor leaf loss, stop all watering for several weeks to see if the problem will correct itself. If the symptoms persist and worsen, the plant may need to be replaced.
Pest Infestations
Serious infestations of mealybugs and spider mites may cause foliage loss in Black Rose plants, although it is rare in healthy, unstressed plants. Accompanying symptoms include discolored leaves, stem dieback and sticky or cottony reside between the leaves. Infestations of either type of pest can be treated with a liberal application of ready-to-use insecticidal soap applied to the tops and undersides of the leaves at seven- to 10-day intervals. Proper care will help prevent serious pest infestations in Black Rose plants, as will planting them in a bug-free site away from areas where infestations have previously occurred.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you’re growing a Desert Rose (Adenium obesum), you probably know that it has an odd look, with a thick, succulent stem called a caudex that can become a bit grotesque as it enlarges. But its name comes from its desert-like native habitat and its colorful, showy flowers that resemble small roses. Usually easy to grow when given the right conditions, leaves on a Desert Rose might turn yellow and start to fall. This can stem from normal changes as it cycles through the year, or it might signal a problem that needs to be addressed.
A Natural Cycle
A Desert Rose is sensitive to frost but can grow outdoors year-round in USDA hardiness zones 10a through 12. In colder regions, it also does well as a potted plant, either kept indoors as a year-round houseplant or grown outdoors in summer and overwintered indoors.
Whether an outdoor plant in a warm-winter area or a houseplant, Desert Rose usually continues to grow throughout the year, so its leaves should stay green if it’s healthy and problem-free. But in cooler areas where night-time temperatures fall between 39 and 46 degrees Fahrenheit (4 and 8 degrees Celsius) and become 60 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 to 18 degrees Celsius) during the day, a Desert Rose behaves like a deciduous plant, with its leaves gradually turning yellow and dropping. You can prevent a potted plant from losing leaves by moving it indoors before the air cools in the fall. If you grow the plant outdoors year-round and it becomes dormant in fall, it should put out new growth as soon as the air warms in the spring.
Possible Pests
A Desert Rose might attract one of several pests that can affect its leaves, causing them to yellow and eventually dry up. These include mealybugs, fluffy white insects that feed on the foliage. If you see these insects, destroy each one by touching it with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Other possible pests include aphids — small greenish insects — and spider mites, which aren’t readily visible but make web-like coverings on leaves and buds. Both pests feed on plant juices and can cause leaves to yellow, wilt and fall off the plant. For a mild problem, use a strong jet of water to dislodge the pests. If the infestation is severe, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
Fungal Problems
If a Desert Rose is grown in overly wet conditions, it might develop fungal stem rot, which usually starts at a stem tip and could also affect leaves on that stem, causing them to turn yellow, then brown. Eventually, the stem darkens or turns yellow and becomes soft, with the problem moving down the stem toward the soil. To save the plant, prune the affected part of the stem back, making the cut behind the soft area and into healthy, firm tissue. Disinfect the knife or shears by wiping the blade with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
A Natural Cycle
A Desert Rose is sensitive to frost but can grow outdoors year-round in USDA hardiness zones 10a through 12. In colder regions, it also does well as a potted plant, either kept indoors as a year-round houseplant or grown outdoors in summer and overwintered indoors.
Whether an outdoor plant in a warm-winter area or a houseplant, Desert Rose usually continues to grow throughout the year, so its leaves should stay green if it’s healthy and problem-free. But in cooler areas where night-time temperatures fall between 39 and 46 degrees Fahrenheit (4 and 8 degrees Celsius) and become 60 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 to 18 degrees Celsius) during the day, a Desert Rose behaves like a deciduous plant, with its leaves gradually turning yellow and dropping. You can prevent a potted plant from losing leaves by moving it indoors before the air cools in the fall. If you grow the plant outdoors year-round and it becomes dormant in fall, it should put out new growth as soon as the air warms in the spring.
Possible Pests
A Desert Rose might attract one of several pests that can affect its leaves, causing them to yellow and eventually dry up. These include mealybugs, fluffy white insects that feed on the foliage. If you see these insects, destroy each one by touching it with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Other possible pests include aphids — small greenish insects — and spider mites, which aren’t readily visible but make web-like coverings on leaves and buds. Both pests feed on plant juices and can cause leaves to yellow, wilt and fall off the plant. For a mild problem, use a strong jet of water to dislodge the pests. If the infestation is severe, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
Fungal Problems
If a Desert Rose is grown in overly wet conditions, it might develop fungal stem rot, which usually starts at a stem tip and could also affect leaves on that stem, causing them to turn yellow, then brown. Eventually, the stem darkens or turns yellow and becomes soft, with the problem moving down the stem toward the soil. To save the plant, prune the affected part of the stem back, making the cut behind the soft area and into healthy, firm tissue. Disinfect the knife or shears by wiping the blade with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Rose rosette disease, also known as witches’-broom of rose, is caused by a virus (Emaravirus sp.) that is spread by a very small, eriophyid mite. The disease is limited to plants in the genus Rosa but R. setigera, R. aricularis, R. arkansana, R. blanda, R. palustris, R. carolina and R. spinosissima are believed to be resistant. Its main host is the multiflora rose, which is considered a noxious weed throughout much of the United States. Interest in rose rosette has been generated by the threat to garden roses and its possible use as a biocontrol for multiflora rose.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The earliest symptoms of rose rosette disease include a red pigmentation of the underside of leaf veins followed by sharply increased growth of vegetative shoots, which are typically more succulent than normal and colored in various shades of red. Leaves often become deformed, crinkled, and brittle with yellow mosaics and red pigmentation. As the disease progresses, leaves become very small, petioles are shortened, and most lateral buds grow, producing short, intensely red shoots. The disease causes the plant to be exceptionally susceptible to freeze damage. Symptoms on cultivated roses are typically less severe than on multiflora rose. Cultivated roses show symptoms of thickened, succulent stems and a proliferation of thorns. Symptoms can mimic some forms of herbicide damage.
Life Cycle
The disease is transmitted by an eriophyid mite, a wingless mite that can travel passively in the wind as well as on contaminated clothing and equipment. The mites are most prevalent in the apex of the rose shoots where they feed and reproduce. Females overwinter under bark or on bud scales of living roses. The females move to newly developing shoots where they lay one egg a day for about 30 days. The young hatch in 3-4 days. They can reach adulthood in about a week depending upon temperatures. Multiple generations occur each year until fall when females seek overwintering sites. The mites are hampered by low humidity and can only survive about 8 hours without being on a host plant.
Virus transmission occurs most readily between the months of May through mid-July when plants are making active growth. Symptoms from new infections usually start appearing in mid-July. In general, smaller plants go through the disease stages more quickly than larger plants. Small plants are usually killed in about 2 years, while a large plant may survive for five years in a deteriorated condition.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove ornamental roses with symptoms. The entire plant including the roots should be removed and destroyed by burning or placing in a plastic bag. Care must be taken when working with diseased plants as you can facilitate spread of the mites that spreads the disease. Bag the plant before removal, cut it at ground level and then dig out the plant’s roots. Soil need not be removed. Clean tools and put on fresh clothing before moving to a disease-free plant or area.
2. Plant ornamental roses as far away as possible from known stands of multiflora rose. The general recommendation is maintain at least 300 feet between your roses and any stands of multiflora rose. Even greater distance is preferred especially if they are upwind of your desirable rose plants.
3. Control the disease by controlling the mite. Start mite control early by pruning your roses hard in late winter (back by 2/3) to remove as many overwintering mites as possible and then spray with horticultural oil to kill any remaining mites. Organic pesticides such as horticultural oils and insecticidal soap are recommended over other pesticides as these organic pesticides are less harmful to natural predators that feed on the problem mites. Apply weekly during the months of June and July paying particular attention to the new growing tips where the mites will congregate. Refrain from using leaf blowers around roses as they can spread mites.
4. Help to isolate your roses. Do not plant roses too close together. With extra space between the plants mite movement can be reduced. Also, consider interplanting roses with other ornamental plants.
5. Using rose rosette disease as an IPM strategy. The multiflora rose is an exotic invasive species that is responsible for the degradation of millions of acres of farmland and recreational areas. Using the disease to control this invasive weed can cut costs and be considered environmentally friendly for reducing the amount of synthetic chemicals used. However, the disease also affects cultivated roses. One should be extremely cautious and good neighbor-minded when it comes to rose rosette disease.
6. Plant a resistant cultivar. Rose breeders have been working to develop new rose cultivars that are resistant to rose rosette. The first, 'Top Gun', is a shrub rose that is scheduled to be released in 2018. 'Top Gun' is also reportedly resistant to most other common rose diseases. Others cultivars are planned to follow.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The earliest symptoms of rose rosette disease include a red pigmentation of the underside of leaf veins followed by sharply increased growth of vegetative shoots, which are typically more succulent than normal and colored in various shades of red. Leaves often become deformed, crinkled, and brittle with yellow mosaics and red pigmentation. As the disease progresses, leaves become very small, petioles are shortened, and most lateral buds grow, producing short, intensely red shoots. The disease causes the plant to be exceptionally susceptible to freeze damage. Symptoms on cultivated roses are typically less severe than on multiflora rose. Cultivated roses show symptoms of thickened, succulent stems and a proliferation of thorns. Symptoms can mimic some forms of herbicide damage.
Life Cycle
The disease is transmitted by an eriophyid mite, a wingless mite that can travel passively in the wind as well as on contaminated clothing and equipment. The mites are most prevalent in the apex of the rose shoots where they feed and reproduce. Females overwinter under bark or on bud scales of living roses. The females move to newly developing shoots where they lay one egg a day for about 30 days. The young hatch in 3-4 days. They can reach adulthood in about a week depending upon temperatures. Multiple generations occur each year until fall when females seek overwintering sites. The mites are hampered by low humidity and can only survive about 8 hours without being on a host plant.
Virus transmission occurs most readily between the months of May through mid-July when plants are making active growth. Symptoms from new infections usually start appearing in mid-July. In general, smaller plants go through the disease stages more quickly than larger plants. Small plants are usually killed in about 2 years, while a large plant may survive for five years in a deteriorated condition.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove ornamental roses with symptoms. The entire plant including the roots should be removed and destroyed by burning or placing in a plastic bag. Care must be taken when working with diseased plants as you can facilitate spread of the mites that spreads the disease. Bag the plant before removal, cut it at ground level and then dig out the plant’s roots. Soil need not be removed. Clean tools and put on fresh clothing before moving to a disease-free plant or area.
2. Plant ornamental roses as far away as possible from known stands of multiflora rose. The general recommendation is maintain at least 300 feet between your roses and any stands of multiflora rose. Even greater distance is preferred especially if they are upwind of your desirable rose plants.
3. Control the disease by controlling the mite. Start mite control early by pruning your roses hard in late winter (back by 2/3) to remove as many overwintering mites as possible and then spray with horticultural oil to kill any remaining mites. Organic pesticides such as horticultural oils and insecticidal soap are recommended over other pesticides as these organic pesticides are less harmful to natural predators that feed on the problem mites. Apply weekly during the months of June and July paying particular attention to the new growing tips where the mites will congregate. Refrain from using leaf blowers around roses as they can spread mites.
4. Help to isolate your roses. Do not plant roses too close together. With extra space between the plants mite movement can be reduced. Also, consider interplanting roses with other ornamental plants.
5. Using rose rosette disease as an IPM strategy. The multiflora rose is an exotic invasive species that is responsible for the degradation of millions of acres of farmland and recreational areas. Using the disease to control this invasive weed can cut costs and be considered environmentally friendly for reducing the amount of synthetic chemicals used. However, the disease also affects cultivated roses. One should be extremely cautious and good neighbor-minded when it comes to rose rosette disease.
6. Plant a resistant cultivar. Rose breeders have been working to develop new rose cultivars that are resistant to rose rosette. The first, 'Top Gun', is a shrub rose that is scheduled to be released in 2018. 'Top Gun' is also reportedly resistant to most other common rose diseases. Others cultivars are planned to follow.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Crown gall is a plant disease caused by the soil-inhabiting bacterium, Agrobacterium tumefaciens. The bacterium causes abnormal growths or galls on roots, twigs, and branches of euonymus and other shrubs primarily in the rose family. The bacterium stimulates the rapid growth of plant cells that results in the galls. In addition to being unsightly, the galls weaken and stunt the growth of the plant. Although galls can disrupt the flow of water and nutrients up the roots and branches, they usually do not cause total plant death. The disease can spread to other susceptible plants through contaminated soil and tools. Most chemical treatments are not effective.
The galls on forsythia, viburnum, highbush blueberry, American elm, hickory, maple, oak, and privet are believed to be caused by a fungus, Phomopsis sp. Since its cultural controls are the same as for bacterial crown gall, both are treated together herein. Chemical treatments, however, will differ. Chemical treatments for both are of very limited value to the home gardener. Only those relating to bacterial crown gall have been addressed.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Galls are most commonly found near ground level on the roots and lower branches of the plants. As the galls enlarge, they become woody and hard. The outer layer turns brown and corky. The plant may be weakened and stunted with some branch or tip dieback. Symptoms may not develop immediately after infection. Galls grow most rapidly during the warm months of the year.
Life Cycle
Crown gall forming bacteria inhabit the soil and survive for many years. The bacterium can initially be brought in on the roots of infected plants. It then spreads by soil and water movement or contaminated pruning tools. Bacteria enter the plant through wounds possibly caused by chewing insects, cultivation damage, or from grafting and pruning tools. The crown gall bacterium has been known to survive more than two years in the soil in the absence of susceptible plants. It can live for several years in decomposing galls buried in the soil. Crown gall is likely to be more serious in limed soil than in acid soils so soil pH could be important in limiting the disease.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Prune out infected material. Crown gall cannot be eliminated from a shrub even though the infected plant may live for many years. To improve the appearance of the plant, prune out and destroy infected stems below the galled area. Sterilize the pruning shears after each cut with a mixture of one part bleach to nine parts water.
2. Destroy infected plants. Destroy the infected plant. The bacterium will remain in the soil so it is important to plant a resistant plant species. If the same species needs to be planted in the area, remove and replace the soil or consider soil sterilization.
3. Sterilize the soil. Soils known to be infected with crown gall bacteria can be sterilized using chemicals, heat, or antibiotics. This is not practical for most home gardeners. A biological control has been introduced using a bacterium, Agrobacterium radiobactor strain 84. This bacterium was discovered to be antagonistic to crown gall bacterium. It is available for use as a preplant treatment by dipping nursery stock in a suspension of the live bacteria in water.
4. Exclude the problem. When purchasing forsythia and euonymus plants, inspect them carefully for signs of galls. Do not purchase plants that show gall-forming symptoms.
5. Replant with a more resistant plant species. The following plants recommended by the University of Illinois show greater resistance to bacterial crown gall: barberry, hornbeam, true cedars, ginkgo, golden raintree, tulip tree, mahonia, spruce, linden, boxwood, catalpa, beech, holly, larch, magnolia, black gum, pine, Douglas fir, bald cypress, hemlock, birch, firethorn, redbud, smoke tree, sweet gum, deutzia, serviceberry, yellowwood, yew, and zelkova.
The galls on forsythia, viburnum, highbush blueberry, American elm, hickory, maple, oak, and privet are believed to be caused by a fungus, Phomopsis sp. Since its cultural controls are the same as for bacterial crown gall, both are treated together herein. Chemical treatments, however, will differ. Chemical treatments for both are of very limited value to the home gardener. Only those relating to bacterial crown gall have been addressed.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Galls are most commonly found near ground level on the roots and lower branches of the plants. As the galls enlarge, they become woody and hard. The outer layer turns brown and corky. The plant may be weakened and stunted with some branch or tip dieback. Symptoms may not develop immediately after infection. Galls grow most rapidly during the warm months of the year.
Life Cycle
Crown gall forming bacteria inhabit the soil and survive for many years. The bacterium can initially be brought in on the roots of infected plants. It then spreads by soil and water movement or contaminated pruning tools. Bacteria enter the plant through wounds possibly caused by chewing insects, cultivation damage, or from grafting and pruning tools. The crown gall bacterium has been known to survive more than two years in the soil in the absence of susceptible plants. It can live for several years in decomposing galls buried in the soil. Crown gall is likely to be more serious in limed soil than in acid soils so soil pH could be important in limiting the disease.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Prune out infected material. Crown gall cannot be eliminated from a shrub even though the infected plant may live for many years. To improve the appearance of the plant, prune out and destroy infected stems below the galled area. Sterilize the pruning shears after each cut with a mixture of one part bleach to nine parts water.
2. Destroy infected plants. Destroy the infected plant. The bacterium will remain in the soil so it is important to plant a resistant plant species. If the same species needs to be planted in the area, remove and replace the soil or consider soil sterilization.
3. Sterilize the soil. Soils known to be infected with crown gall bacteria can be sterilized using chemicals, heat, or antibiotics. This is not practical for most home gardeners. A biological control has been introduced using a bacterium, Agrobacterium radiobactor strain 84. This bacterium was discovered to be antagonistic to crown gall bacterium. It is available for use as a preplant treatment by dipping nursery stock in a suspension of the live bacteria in water.
4. Exclude the problem. When purchasing forsythia and euonymus plants, inspect them carefully for signs of galls. Do not purchase plants that show gall-forming symptoms.
5. Replant with a more resistant plant species. The following plants recommended by the University of Illinois show greater resistance to bacterial crown gall: barberry, hornbeam, true cedars, ginkgo, golden raintree, tulip tree, mahonia, spruce, linden, boxwood, catalpa, beech, holly, larch, magnolia, black gum, pine, Douglas fir, bald cypress, hemlock, birch, firethorn, redbud, smoke tree, sweet gum, deutzia, serviceberry, yellowwood, yew, and zelkova.
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成长记
Wendy F. Samonte
2017年09月19日
I new added a "Echeveria Imbricata Rose Cabbage" in my "garden"
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Echeveria ‘Doris Taylor’, also known as Woolly Rose, is an attractive succulent that forms rosettes of pale-green, fleshy leaves covered with small white hairs. A low-maintenance succulent, the woolly rose can easily thrive if provided with the right conditions. Often grown outside in warm, arid regions, the Woolly Rose is best suited to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9b to 11; it should be brought inside during the winter if grown in colder climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Place the Woolly Rose where it will receive full morning sun or partially shaded afternoon sunlight. If the it is in a pot, place it out on the balcony or porch during warm, sunny weather. Give the Woolly Rose at least a foot (30 cm) of space on each side to prevent it from being crowded by other plants.
Water whenever the soil feels dry during the growing season. Water lightly until the soil is moist but not very wet. Woolly Rose can go for a long period without water once they are established, but they grow better and faster if they receive regular watering during the growing season. Reduce watering during the winter, allowing the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings.
Fertilize Woolly Rose with liquid 2-7-7 succulent and cactus fertilizer during the growing season, from spring to late summer. Add seven drops of the fertilizer to 1 quart of water and sprinkle around the base of the succulent. Fertilize once every two weeks.
Woolly Rose will drop many of its lower leaves during the winter. Remove shriveled and fallen leaves as they accumulate around the base of the plant. Discard the leaves before they begin to rot. Decaying leaves can spread disease to the rest of the plant if not removed.
Repotting
Repot Woolly Rose plants once roots become visible around drainage holes. Repot into a pot 1 inch (2.5 cm) wider and deeper or out into the garden. Woolly Rose prefer very well-draining soil.
Propagation
Propagate Woolly Rose plants by taking cuttings during the growing season. Cut off a branch and allow it to dry for 24 hours in a warm location with indirect light. Plant the cutting in moist potting soil and place in indirect sunlight or where it will receive direct morning sun. Keep soil moist but not wet. Roots should appear within a few weeks after planting.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Place the Woolly Rose where it will receive full morning sun or partially shaded afternoon sunlight. If the it is in a pot, place it out on the balcony or porch during warm, sunny weather. Give the Woolly Rose at least a foot (30 cm) of space on each side to prevent it from being crowded by other plants.
Water whenever the soil feels dry during the growing season. Water lightly until the soil is moist but not very wet. Woolly Rose can go for a long period without water once they are established, but they grow better and faster if they receive regular watering during the growing season. Reduce watering during the winter, allowing the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings.
Fertilize Woolly Rose with liquid 2-7-7 succulent and cactus fertilizer during the growing season, from spring to late summer. Add seven drops of the fertilizer to 1 quart of water and sprinkle around the base of the succulent. Fertilize once every two weeks.
Woolly Rose will drop many of its lower leaves during the winter. Remove shriveled and fallen leaves as they accumulate around the base of the plant. Discard the leaves before they begin to rot. Decaying leaves can spread disease to the rest of the plant if not removed.
Repotting
Repot Woolly Rose plants once roots become visible around drainage holes. Repot into a pot 1 inch (2.5 cm) wider and deeper or out into the garden. Woolly Rose prefer very well-draining soil.
Propagation
Propagate Woolly Rose plants by taking cuttings during the growing season. Cut off a branch and allow it to dry for 24 hours in a warm location with indirect light. Plant the cutting in moist potting soil and place in indirect sunlight or where it will receive direct morning sun. Keep soil moist but not wet. Roots should appear within a few weeks after planting.
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