文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula ovata (also known as Jade Plant) care is easy and simple. Many people enjoy growing Jade Plants in their homes and offices, and they are considered to be symbols of good luck. But you do not need to be lucky to learn what the proper care and maintenance of Jade Plants is. Keep reading to learn how to care for a Crassula ovata.
Learning about the care and maintenance of Crassula ovata is easy. The most important factors to consider when growing jade houseplants is water, light, temperature, and fertilizer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Crassula ovata flourishes in good health with plenty of light. If you can provide a few hours of sunshine a day your going to have a happy plant.
Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents.
Temperature: Room temperatures of around 60°F to 75°F (15.5°C to 24°C) are ideal. Winter no less than 50°F (10°C).
Hardiness Zones: 9b – 11a
Watering: It’s best to allow the soil to become dry between each watering which will depend on the time of year, how much humidity and amount of sunlight it’s getting. Allowing too much water to sit at the bottom of the pot with the roots will cause them to rot (avoid this).
Fertilizing: Feed each week or two (maybe less) with a weak or diluted liquid fertilizer. Fertilizer made for succulents may be your best bet, that does not need to be a high strength type.
General Care
Easy to grow in container, best in full sun but will tolerate part sun. It need well-drained soil with a neutral pH. Water regularly form spring to autumn and allow soil to dry out before watering again. During the winter months, water only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Most common reason for failure is overwatering!
Propagation
Propagating is achieved with leaf or stem cuttings which are placed into a soil mix, then wait until they show some growth. Before placing them in soil mix you will prevent potential problems from the sap seeping out by allowing them to dry on a windowsill, for a few days or so.
Learning about the care and maintenance of Crassula ovata is easy. The most important factors to consider when growing jade houseplants is water, light, temperature, and fertilizer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Crassula ovata flourishes in good health with plenty of light. If you can provide a few hours of sunshine a day your going to have a happy plant.
Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents.
Temperature: Room temperatures of around 60°F to 75°F (15.5°C to 24°C) are ideal. Winter no less than 50°F (10°C).
Hardiness Zones: 9b – 11a
Watering: It’s best to allow the soil to become dry between each watering which will depend on the time of year, how much humidity and amount of sunlight it’s getting. Allowing too much water to sit at the bottom of the pot with the roots will cause them to rot (avoid this).
Fertilizing: Feed each week or two (maybe less) with a weak or diluted liquid fertilizer. Fertilizer made for succulents may be your best bet, that does not need to be a high strength type.
General Care
Easy to grow in container, best in full sun but will tolerate part sun. It need well-drained soil with a neutral pH. Water regularly form spring to autumn and allow soil to dry out before watering again. During the winter months, water only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Most common reason for failure is overwatering!
Propagation
Propagating is achieved with leaf or stem cuttings which are placed into a soil mix, then wait until they show some growth. Before placing them in soil mix you will prevent potential problems from the sap seeping out by allowing them to dry on a windowsill, for a few days or so.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
There are few plants more forgiving of sun and bad soil than Sedum plants. Growing them is easy, so easy, in fact, that even the most novice gardener can excel at it. With a large number of varieties to choose from, you will find one that works for your garden.
How to Grow Sedum
When growing Sedum, keep in mind that plants need very little attention or care. They will thrive in conditions that many other plants thrive in, but will do just as well in less hospitable areas. They are ideal for that part of your yard that gets too much sun or too little water to grow anything else. A common name for Sedum is Stonecrop, due to the fact that many gardeners joke that only stones need less care and live longer.
Sedum varieties vary in height. The smallest are just a few inches tall, and the tallest can be up to 3 feet (90 cm). The large majority of varieties are shorter and they are frequently used as ground covers in xeriscape gardens or rock gardens.
Sedum varieties also vary in their hardiness. Many are hardy to USDA zone 3, while others need a warmer climate. Make sure the Sedum that you plant is suited to your hardiness zone.
Sedums need no additional water or fertilizer. Overwatering and overfertilizing can hurt the plants far worse than not watering or fertilizing.
Tips for Planting Sedums
Sedum is easily planted. For shorter varieties, simply laying the plant on the ground where you want it to grow is normally enough to get the plant started there. They will send out roots from wherever the stem is touching the ground and root itself. If you would like to further ensure that the plant will start there, you can add a very thin covering of soil over the plant.
For taller varieties, you can break off one of the stems and push it into the ground where you would like to grow it. The stem will root very easily and anew plant will be established in a season or two.
How to Grow Sedum
When growing Sedum, keep in mind that plants need very little attention or care. They will thrive in conditions that many other plants thrive in, but will do just as well in less hospitable areas. They are ideal for that part of your yard that gets too much sun or too little water to grow anything else. A common name for Sedum is Stonecrop, due to the fact that many gardeners joke that only stones need less care and live longer.
Sedum varieties vary in height. The smallest are just a few inches tall, and the tallest can be up to 3 feet (90 cm). The large majority of varieties are shorter and they are frequently used as ground covers in xeriscape gardens or rock gardens.
Sedum varieties also vary in their hardiness. Many are hardy to USDA zone 3, while others need a warmer climate. Make sure the Sedum that you plant is suited to your hardiness zone.
Sedums need no additional water or fertilizer. Overwatering and overfertilizing can hurt the plants far worse than not watering or fertilizing.
Tips for Planting Sedums
Sedum is easily planted. For shorter varieties, simply laying the plant on the ground where you want it to grow is normally enough to get the plant started there. They will send out roots from wherever the stem is touching the ground and root itself. If you would like to further ensure that the plant will start there, you can add a very thin covering of soil over the plant.
For taller varieties, you can break off one of the stems and push it into the ground where you would like to grow it. The stem will root very easily and anew plant will be established in a season or two.
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5
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii), Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), and Easter Cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri) do not have the typical requirements of most succulents. Although true cacti, they are epiphytic in nature, growing in the branches of trees in their native tropical forest rain habitats. The need for high humidity, bright but filtered light, and soil kept relatively moist most of the year sets these plants apart from the majority of cacti and succulents.
Holiday Cacti bloom at different times of the year, but all require short days and cool night temperatures to initiate flower buds. In fall these plants should be kept in a bright location where the temperature drops to 55 to 65 degrees F (13 to 18 degrees C) at night, rising 5 to 10 degrees in the day. With 55 degrees F (13 dgrees C) night temperatures they will bloom in 5-6 weeks. If the night temperature is 60 to 65 degrees F (15 to 18 degrees C), these plants must have at least 12 hours of complete darkness every night for about 6 weeks in order to bloom. At higher night temperatures it is unlikely that they will bloom at all. Keeping the plants outdoors in a protected location until just before frost danger will result in abundant blooms, provided there’s a cool, bright spot for them when brought indoors.
Holiday cacti should be potted in a standard cactus soil mix and watered thoroughly. Allow the soil to dry a bit between waterings. After they have finished blooming water less frequently, increasing again in spring or early summer when the plants resume more active growth. Fertilize several times with a dilute balanced house plant fertilizer during the bright light months, changing to a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium formulation in the fall when flower buds are forming.
Once the buds have started to develop, holiday cacti do not like to be disturbed. Drafts or sudden changes in temperature or humidity-or even the direction of sunlight they receive-can result in dropping buds. If the plants are to be displayed in a warmer room than the one in which the buds were initiated, move them there as soon as the buds appear. As long as there is adequate light and a relatively cool night temperature they should continue to develop normally and will reward you with spectacular blossoms.
Holiday Cacti bloom at different times of the year, but all require short days and cool night temperatures to initiate flower buds. In fall these plants should be kept in a bright location where the temperature drops to 55 to 65 degrees F (13 to 18 degrees C) at night, rising 5 to 10 degrees in the day. With 55 degrees F (13 dgrees C) night temperatures they will bloom in 5-6 weeks. If the night temperature is 60 to 65 degrees F (15 to 18 degrees C), these plants must have at least 12 hours of complete darkness every night for about 6 weeks in order to bloom. At higher night temperatures it is unlikely that they will bloom at all. Keeping the plants outdoors in a protected location until just before frost danger will result in abundant blooms, provided there’s a cool, bright spot for them when brought indoors.
Holiday cacti should be potted in a standard cactus soil mix and watered thoroughly. Allow the soil to dry a bit between waterings. After they have finished blooming water less frequently, increasing again in spring or early summer when the plants resume more active growth. Fertilize several times with a dilute balanced house plant fertilizer during the bright light months, changing to a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium formulation in the fall when flower buds are forming.
Once the buds have started to develop, holiday cacti do not like to be disturbed. Drafts or sudden changes in temperature or humidity-or even the direction of sunlight they receive-can result in dropping buds. If the plants are to be displayed in a warmer room than the one in which the buds were initiated, move them there as soon as the buds appear. As long as there is adequate light and a relatively cool night temperature they should continue to develop normally and will reward you with spectacular blossoms.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Many people think that cacti and succulents require a small amount of water every once in a while. While its true that these plants are tough, and can usually survive under such circumstances, most certainly will not thrive.
During their growing season, these plants like regular watering and fertilizing. For most, the period of growth is from spring into fall. Many plants rest (stop putting on growth) from late fall to early spring, when temperatures are cool and daylight length is short, and during mid-summer, when temperatures are at their peak.
How often to water and fertilize: While growing, cacti and succulents should be watered at least once a week. Some people water more often than this. During each watering, give the soil a good soaking, so that water runs out of the ‘drainage holes’ of the pots. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering. (A balanced fertilizer is one that has roughly equal proportions of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium. A 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to 1/4 strength is ideal.)
When the weather cools and day-length shortens, plants enter a rest period. During that time, increase the interval between watering, and let the potting mixture dry out between watering. Some people say that during dormancy, cacti and succulents should be given just enough water so that they show no sign of shriveling. Use some common sense here. If your plants are kept indoors on a window sill in a heated room during the Winter, they will need more water than if they were over-wintered out-of-doors. In any case, do not fertilize your plants during dormancy.
There are exceptions to the above guidelines, as some cacti and, especially some succulents, are winter growers. Again, your local cacti and succulent club can help you determine the particular growing habits of your plants.
A word about water: Tap water often can be alkaline and/or hard, meaning it contains high concentrations of dissolved minerals. Such minerals can build up in the plant’s ‘soil’ over time, causing harm. This is one good reason why your plants should periodically be ‘repotted.’ Buildup of such minerals can also cause unsightly deposits to form, especially on unglazed clay pots. Never water your plants with water that has been through a softening system that uses salt as a recharging agent, as these systems simply replace the “hardness” in the water with sodium ions.
Rain water is preferable to tap water, if you can manage to collect and store it.
Light
Most cacti and succulents like bright light, but not all can tolerate intense, direct sunlight, especially in conjunction with high temperatures. The intensity of the light that a plant will thrive in depends on the species. A plant that is grown in optimal light conditions will “look normal” (unstressed), and is more likely to flower than one grown in sub-optimal lighting conditions. (Keep in mind that succulents, and especially cacti, have very differing ages at which they will flower. For example, even if you give your giant Saguaro seedling (Carnegiea gigantea) conditions that are optimal in every way, you will likely not see it flower in your lifetime.)
While optimal lighting conditions depend on species, there are some general signs that indicate your plant is getting either too much or too little light:
Too much light: When your plant is getting too much light, it can appear “off color,” taking on a “bleached out” look, or turning yellow or even orangish. Keep in mind that these signs can also indicate other stresses, such as disease or too much water, so use common sense when making your diagnosis.
If your plant is moved suddenly into very bright sunlight conditions, or if the weather suddenly turns hot with abundant sunshine, your plant can scorch. This can happen very rapidly and can scar the plant for the rest of its life, so be on alert for when such a condition might occur, and take precautions to prevent scorching.
Too little light: If your plant is receiving too little light, it might etiolate and/or appear to really reach for the light source. (Etiolation is the condition where a plant becomes “drawn,” for example, a cactus plant that is normally round begins to look as if it is being stretched out from the growing point at its center). Your plant will suffer if left in such light conditions for very long. When transitioning such a plant to stronger light, keep in mind that it will be especially prone to scorching, so make the transition slowly.
Note that in most cases, it is quite normal for a plant to slowly grow toward the light. What you want to avoid is the condition where it is really reaching for the light. For example, if your columnar cactus is bent toward the window at 90°, it’s trying to tell you something.
For a potted plant that slowly grows toward the light over time, you can rotate its pot to cause it to grow in a more balanced fashion. Remember, if you do this, that the side of the plant that had not been exposed to direct sunlight for a long time might scorch if you make the transition too quickly. Be careful!
During their growing season, these plants like regular watering and fertilizing. For most, the period of growth is from spring into fall. Many plants rest (stop putting on growth) from late fall to early spring, when temperatures are cool and daylight length is short, and during mid-summer, when temperatures are at their peak.
How often to water and fertilize: While growing, cacti and succulents should be watered at least once a week. Some people water more often than this. During each watering, give the soil a good soaking, so that water runs out of the ‘drainage holes’ of the pots. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering. (A balanced fertilizer is one that has roughly equal proportions of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium. A 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to 1/4 strength is ideal.)
When the weather cools and day-length shortens, plants enter a rest period. During that time, increase the interval between watering, and let the potting mixture dry out between watering. Some people say that during dormancy, cacti and succulents should be given just enough water so that they show no sign of shriveling. Use some common sense here. If your plants are kept indoors on a window sill in a heated room during the Winter, they will need more water than if they were over-wintered out-of-doors. In any case, do not fertilize your plants during dormancy.
There are exceptions to the above guidelines, as some cacti and, especially some succulents, are winter growers. Again, your local cacti and succulent club can help you determine the particular growing habits of your plants.
A word about water: Tap water often can be alkaline and/or hard, meaning it contains high concentrations of dissolved minerals. Such minerals can build up in the plant’s ‘soil’ over time, causing harm. This is one good reason why your plants should periodically be ‘repotted.’ Buildup of such minerals can also cause unsightly deposits to form, especially on unglazed clay pots. Never water your plants with water that has been through a softening system that uses salt as a recharging agent, as these systems simply replace the “hardness” in the water with sodium ions.
Rain water is preferable to tap water, if you can manage to collect and store it.
Light
Most cacti and succulents like bright light, but not all can tolerate intense, direct sunlight, especially in conjunction with high temperatures. The intensity of the light that a plant will thrive in depends on the species. A plant that is grown in optimal light conditions will “look normal” (unstressed), and is more likely to flower than one grown in sub-optimal lighting conditions. (Keep in mind that succulents, and especially cacti, have very differing ages at which they will flower. For example, even if you give your giant Saguaro seedling (Carnegiea gigantea) conditions that are optimal in every way, you will likely not see it flower in your lifetime.)
While optimal lighting conditions depend on species, there are some general signs that indicate your plant is getting either too much or too little light:
Too much light: When your plant is getting too much light, it can appear “off color,” taking on a “bleached out” look, or turning yellow or even orangish. Keep in mind that these signs can also indicate other stresses, such as disease or too much water, so use common sense when making your diagnosis.
If your plant is moved suddenly into very bright sunlight conditions, or if the weather suddenly turns hot with abundant sunshine, your plant can scorch. This can happen very rapidly and can scar the plant for the rest of its life, so be on alert for when such a condition might occur, and take precautions to prevent scorching.
Too little light: If your plant is receiving too little light, it might etiolate and/or appear to really reach for the light source. (Etiolation is the condition where a plant becomes “drawn,” for example, a cactus plant that is normally round begins to look as if it is being stretched out from the growing point at its center). Your plant will suffer if left in such light conditions for very long. When transitioning such a plant to stronger light, keep in mind that it will be especially prone to scorching, so make the transition slowly.
Note that in most cases, it is quite normal for a plant to slowly grow toward the light. What you want to avoid is the condition where it is really reaching for the light. For example, if your columnar cactus is bent toward the window at 90°, it’s trying to tell you something.
For a potted plant that slowly grows toward the light over time, you can rotate its pot to cause it to grow in a more balanced fashion. Remember, if you do this, that the side of the plant that had not been exposed to direct sunlight for a long time might scorch if you make the transition too quickly. Be careful!
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Lophophora is a genus of spineless, button-like cacti native to the southwestern United States (Texas and New Mexico) through Northeast Mexico and South to Querétaro in central Mexico.
The species are extremely slow growing, sometimes taking up to thirty years to reach flowering age (at the size of about a golf ball, excluding the root) in the wild. Cultivated specimens grow considerably faster, usually taking between three to ten years to reach from seedling to mature flowering adult. The slow rate of reproduction and over-harvesting by collectors render the species under threat in the wild.
Lophophora has been reported to comprise everything from one species, Lophophora williamsii with varieties, to the four species Lophophora diffusa, Lophophora fricii, Lophophora viridescens, and Lophophora williamsii. Most modern authorities consider Lophophora to be a genus of two species, L. williamsii and L. diffusa. L. williamsii, commonly known as Peyote, is noted for its psychotropic alkaloids. These alkaloids are absent or only found in extremely small amounts in the other species L. diffusa.
Growing Conditions
Lophophora species easily adapt to cultivation. Although a cactus, most of the range this genus is found is within a subtropical climate for some portion of the year. In habitat plants in this genus are subject to seasonal monsoons within their range and the plants live in areas where they may be underwater for several weeks during heavy rains and can tolerate a lot of water when the temperatures are above 100 °F (38 °C). These plants are heat adapted and grow rapidly when exposed to temperatures of 110 to 120 °F (43 to 49 °C) and watered heavily in the summer. In habitat, plants from areas which experience seasonal monsoons and high temperatures such as southern Texas can reach flowering size in five years. During the fall and winter months, the plants receive almost no water in habitat and are subjected to temperatures which can drop somewhat below 20 °F (−7 °C) during the winter. The plants should not be watered during the winter rest or watered sparingly when they begin to shrink and wrinkle only enough to keep them turgid. Lophophora plants must be kept completely dry if they are subjected to temperatures below 40 °F (4 °C) as watering plants and subjecting them to below freezing temperatures will typically result in the death of the plant.
Seeding
Seedlings grow most rapidly when enclosed in a sealed terrarium environment, having been germinated in trays of shallow sand covered with plastic wrap with several small pin sized holes in the plastic wrapping. This may seem strange for a cactus, but Lophophora seedlings are adapted to germinate and grow during the seasonal monsoons. Plants grown this way can reach a diameter of 2 inches (5 cm) in just over a year and can be removed from their hyper-humid environment approximately two months after germination. They will typically reach flowering size in just under three years via this method.
General Care
Lophophora are closely related to the genera Ariocarpus, Aztekium, and Obregonia and like its relatives possesses a large taproot system with the majority of the plant’s mass underground for water storage. Lophophora is more tolerant of soil types than its relatives, and typically grows in areas which have decomposed limestone present in the soil. In cultivation, Lophophora does best in a fast draining mineral based soil which is about two thirds sand. Abundant water is beneficial in the summer months when the temperatures are over 90 °F (32 °C) and exposed to full sunlight for maximum growth, but must be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. They should also be fertilized twice a year. Over fertilizing will typically result in the Lophophora developing cracks and splitting. At times, some varieties of Lophophora will develop a corky material on the plant body if exposed to pesticides or insecticidal soap. This corky condition will usually heal in a manner very similar to human skin if the plants are exposed to full sunlight.
Lophophora are free flowering in cultivation and although they can withstand low temperatures during winter they do not require a cold shocking in order to initiate flowering. Plants in habitat typically flower after rainstorms which have been preceded by a period of high temperatures and dry conditions. Plants in cultivation can be encouraged to flower by subjecting the plants to high temperatures, direct sunlight, and withholding water for several weeks, then watering heavily which will usually initiate flowering.
The species are extremely slow growing, sometimes taking up to thirty years to reach flowering age (at the size of about a golf ball, excluding the root) in the wild. Cultivated specimens grow considerably faster, usually taking between three to ten years to reach from seedling to mature flowering adult. The slow rate of reproduction and over-harvesting by collectors render the species under threat in the wild.
Lophophora has been reported to comprise everything from one species, Lophophora williamsii with varieties, to the four species Lophophora diffusa, Lophophora fricii, Lophophora viridescens, and Lophophora williamsii. Most modern authorities consider Lophophora to be a genus of two species, L. williamsii and L. diffusa. L. williamsii, commonly known as Peyote, is noted for its psychotropic alkaloids. These alkaloids are absent or only found in extremely small amounts in the other species L. diffusa.
Growing Conditions
Lophophora species easily adapt to cultivation. Although a cactus, most of the range this genus is found is within a subtropical climate for some portion of the year. In habitat plants in this genus are subject to seasonal monsoons within their range and the plants live in areas where they may be underwater for several weeks during heavy rains and can tolerate a lot of water when the temperatures are above 100 °F (38 °C). These plants are heat adapted and grow rapidly when exposed to temperatures of 110 to 120 °F (43 to 49 °C) and watered heavily in the summer. In habitat, plants from areas which experience seasonal monsoons and high temperatures such as southern Texas can reach flowering size in five years. During the fall and winter months, the plants receive almost no water in habitat and are subjected to temperatures which can drop somewhat below 20 °F (−7 °C) during the winter. The plants should not be watered during the winter rest or watered sparingly when they begin to shrink and wrinkle only enough to keep them turgid. Lophophora plants must be kept completely dry if they are subjected to temperatures below 40 °F (4 °C) as watering plants and subjecting them to below freezing temperatures will typically result in the death of the plant.
Seeding
Seedlings grow most rapidly when enclosed in a sealed terrarium environment, having been germinated in trays of shallow sand covered with plastic wrap with several small pin sized holes in the plastic wrapping. This may seem strange for a cactus, but Lophophora seedlings are adapted to germinate and grow during the seasonal monsoons. Plants grown this way can reach a diameter of 2 inches (5 cm) in just over a year and can be removed from their hyper-humid environment approximately two months after germination. They will typically reach flowering size in just under three years via this method.
General Care
Lophophora are closely related to the genera Ariocarpus, Aztekium, and Obregonia and like its relatives possesses a large taproot system with the majority of the plant’s mass underground for water storage. Lophophora is more tolerant of soil types than its relatives, and typically grows in areas which have decomposed limestone present in the soil. In cultivation, Lophophora does best in a fast draining mineral based soil which is about two thirds sand. Abundant water is beneficial in the summer months when the temperatures are over 90 °F (32 °C) and exposed to full sunlight for maximum growth, but must be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. They should also be fertilized twice a year. Over fertilizing will typically result in the Lophophora developing cracks and splitting. At times, some varieties of Lophophora will develop a corky material on the plant body if exposed to pesticides or insecticidal soap. This corky condition will usually heal in a manner very similar to human skin if the plants are exposed to full sunlight.
Lophophora are free flowering in cultivation and although they can withstand low temperatures during winter they do not require a cold shocking in order to initiate flowering. Plants in habitat typically flower after rainstorms which have been preceded by a period of high temperatures and dry conditions. Plants in cultivation can be encouraged to flower by subjecting the plants to high temperatures, direct sunlight, and withholding water for several weeks, then watering heavily which will usually initiate flowering.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Lifesaver plants are actually not members of the cactus family, although the tubercles — warty protuberances — that line the stem ridges can resemble the fierce spines that protect cacti. Lifesaver plants belong to the genus Huernia, low-growing succulents that are native to deserts from Southern and East Africa to Arabia. The common name comes from the conspicuous raised brightly colored ring that surrounds the middle of the star-shaped flower and resembles a red Lifesaver candy. Not all Huernias have this feature.
General Cultivation
Lifesaver plants can be grown as intriguing indoor, greenhouse or summer patio container plants almost anywhere. Species such as Huernia zebrina, Huernia pillansii, Huernia keniensis and Huernia primulina can be grown in outdoor landscapes in warm-winter and Mediterranean climates. Protect outdoor plants from frost and rain during winter and full sun in summer. Plant enthusiasts worldwide grow Huernias because of their interesting stem shapes and colors and because of the often intricate and fascinating flower forms and colors.
Soil Conditions
Huernias require a potting mix with excellent drainage. A succulent plant mix of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25 percent sand helps prevent rotting and overwatering. Roots experience dieback in cool-season dormancy, so plants grow best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out quickly. Using clay pots further helps soil from staying too wet. An underlayment of coarse gravel below the soil mix also improves drainage. In climates with damp cool summers, a layer of gravel between the plant and the soil mix also helps prevent the stems from staying too moist. Outdoor plantings do well in raised beds.
Light and Temperature
Lifesaver plants prefer bright light or partial shade. In nature, they grow underneath shrubs or other plants. Too much sun causes stems to develop protective reddish or purple pigmentation and can actually scald the stems. Too little light leads to weak, thin growth with decreased flower production. Huernias grow best between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 27 degrees Celsius). Protect them from freezing weather. They can tolerate down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius) when dormant if they are kept dry and temperatures over 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) if not in full sun.
Watering
Plants should be kept dry during the winter dormant season. When Huernias are actively growing, they need to be watered. Allow the soil to dry out one inch down the container between waterings. In regions with highly mineralized water, use rainwater or water from reverse osmosis units to prevent buildup of minerals in the soil.
Fertilizing
During the growing season, high-phosphorous, low nitrogen fertilizers can be applied at half-strength once a month. Alternatively, blood meal and bone meal can be mixed into potting soil in small amounts at the beginning of the growing season. No fertilizers should be given during the dormant season.
Pests
Mealybugs are the most serious threat to plant health. These insects suck the sap from the plant stems and roots and can seriously weaken or kill the lifesaver plants. Control the mealybugs with systemic insecticides. Examine plants weekly for signs of infestation and treat promptly. Keep plants from becoming too crowded so stems can be easily seen.
General Cultivation
Lifesaver plants can be grown as intriguing indoor, greenhouse or summer patio container plants almost anywhere. Species such as Huernia zebrina, Huernia pillansii, Huernia keniensis and Huernia primulina can be grown in outdoor landscapes in warm-winter and Mediterranean climates. Protect outdoor plants from frost and rain during winter and full sun in summer. Plant enthusiasts worldwide grow Huernias because of their interesting stem shapes and colors and because of the often intricate and fascinating flower forms and colors.
Soil Conditions
Huernias require a potting mix with excellent drainage. A succulent plant mix of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25 percent sand helps prevent rotting and overwatering. Roots experience dieback in cool-season dormancy, so plants grow best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out quickly. Using clay pots further helps soil from staying too wet. An underlayment of coarse gravel below the soil mix also improves drainage. In climates with damp cool summers, a layer of gravel between the plant and the soil mix also helps prevent the stems from staying too moist. Outdoor plantings do well in raised beds.
Light and Temperature
Lifesaver plants prefer bright light or partial shade. In nature, they grow underneath shrubs or other plants. Too much sun causes stems to develop protective reddish or purple pigmentation and can actually scald the stems. Too little light leads to weak, thin growth with decreased flower production. Huernias grow best between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 27 degrees Celsius). Protect them from freezing weather. They can tolerate down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius) when dormant if they are kept dry and temperatures over 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) if not in full sun.
Watering
Plants should be kept dry during the winter dormant season. When Huernias are actively growing, they need to be watered. Allow the soil to dry out one inch down the container between waterings. In regions with highly mineralized water, use rainwater or water from reverse osmosis units to prevent buildup of minerals in the soil.
Fertilizing
During the growing season, high-phosphorous, low nitrogen fertilizers can be applied at half-strength once a month. Alternatively, blood meal and bone meal can be mixed into potting soil in small amounts at the beginning of the growing season. No fertilizers should be given during the dormant season.
Pests
Mealybugs are the most serious threat to plant health. These insects suck the sap from the plant stems and roots and can seriously weaken or kill the lifesaver plants. Control the mealybugs with systemic insecticides. Examine plants weekly for signs of infestation and treat promptly. Keep plants from becoming too crowded so stems can be easily seen.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
If you are looking for a houseplant with a lot of character and personality, consider growing Old Man Cactus (Cephalocereus senilis). While it isn’t wrinkly or on social security, the plant does have fluffy white tufts of hair over the surface of the cactus body. The appearance is reminiscent of senior citizen pates, lightly cushioned by sparse, long billowy hair. Learn how to grow an Old Man Cactus and bring the cute little plant with the fuzzy white hairdo into your home.
Growing Conditions
This cactus can go outside in USDA hardiness zones 9 and 10. Native to Mexico, they need hot, dry climates and bright sunlight. The long hair is used by the plant to keep itself cool in its natural habitat. As an outdoor plant, they can get 45 feet tall but are generally slow growing as potted plants.
Old Man Cacti are mostly grown as houseplants and stay small and easily kept in a container for their entire lives. Indoor cactus growing requires a southern- or western-facing window and temperatures of at least 65˚F. (18˚C). For best growth, give it a winter hibernation period in an area where temperatures are below 65˚F (18˚C).
Propagating
Old Man Cactus is easy to propagate from cuttings or seed. Seeds take a long time to grow into something recognizable as a cactus, but it is a cheap and fun project for children.
Cuttings need to lie out on the counter in a dry location for a couple of days to callus. Then insert the cut end with the dry, white callus into a soilless medium, such as sand or perlite. Keep the cutting in moderate, but not scalding, light where temperatures are at least 70˚F (21˚C) for best rooting. Don’t water until the little cutting has rooted. Then treat your new Old Man Cactus houseplants as you would a mature specimen.
General Care
Use a cactus mix or blend of sand, perlite and topsoil for indoor cactus growing. Also, use an unglazed pot for growing old man cactus. This will allow the pot to evaporate any excess moisture. Old Man Cactus houseplants like their soil on the dry side and overwatering is a common cause of rot and disease.
Allow the top couple of inches of soil dry out completely between waterings. In winter, reduce watering to once or twice during the season.
Fertilize with a cactus food in early spring and you might be rewarded with thick pink flowers. In the plant’s natural habitat it grows a 1 inch (2.5 cm) long fruit, but this is rare in captive cultivation.
Old Man Cactus needs a sunny, warm location but has few other needs. You should watch it carefully for pests, however, which can hide in the hair. These include mealybugs, scale, and flying pests.
Growing Conditions
This cactus can go outside in USDA hardiness zones 9 and 10. Native to Mexico, they need hot, dry climates and bright sunlight. The long hair is used by the plant to keep itself cool in its natural habitat. As an outdoor plant, they can get 45 feet tall but are generally slow growing as potted plants.
Old Man Cacti are mostly grown as houseplants and stay small and easily kept in a container for their entire lives. Indoor cactus growing requires a southern- or western-facing window and temperatures of at least 65˚F. (18˚C). For best growth, give it a winter hibernation period in an area where temperatures are below 65˚F (18˚C).
Propagating
Old Man Cactus is easy to propagate from cuttings or seed. Seeds take a long time to grow into something recognizable as a cactus, but it is a cheap and fun project for children.
Cuttings need to lie out on the counter in a dry location for a couple of days to callus. Then insert the cut end with the dry, white callus into a soilless medium, such as sand or perlite. Keep the cutting in moderate, but not scalding, light where temperatures are at least 70˚F (21˚C) for best rooting. Don’t water until the little cutting has rooted. Then treat your new Old Man Cactus houseplants as you would a mature specimen.
General Care
Use a cactus mix or blend of sand, perlite and topsoil for indoor cactus growing. Also, use an unglazed pot for growing old man cactus. This will allow the pot to evaporate any excess moisture. Old Man Cactus houseplants like their soil on the dry side and overwatering is a common cause of rot and disease.
Allow the top couple of inches of soil dry out completely between waterings. In winter, reduce watering to once or twice during the season.
Fertilize with a cactus food in early spring and you might be rewarded with thick pink flowers. In the plant’s natural habitat it grows a 1 inch (2.5 cm) long fruit, but this is rare in captive cultivation.
Old Man Cactus needs a sunny, warm location but has few other needs. You should watch it carefully for pests, however, which can hide in the hair. These include mealybugs, scale, and flying pests.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Avid gardeners know that growing plants is a fine art. Many succulents are extremely hardy because they have fleshy parts in their structure to retain water, which makes them well suited to dry areas that receive little rain. However, they still require tender care and careful maintenance to achieve a splendid, healthy appearance. Both novice and more experienced gardeners can benefit from tips that help them to grow healthy succulents.
1. Use the sun
Succulents may be hardy, but they still like plenty of sunshine because they are desert plants. Gardeners should always place succulents on a sun porch or in a greenhouse so that the plants get plenty of natural light. If growing them indoors, succulents should be placed as close to a large window as possible, and ideally one that faces the direction that the sun rises for maximise exposure.
2. Take succulents outside
A lack of sunlight is the biggest threat to plants, including succulents. If gardeners want to grow succulents indoors but find that an acceptable level of sunlight is not reaching the plants, they should simply move them outside for a couple of days each week. This helps succulents to reach their full potential.
3. Give succulents some space
As sunlight is so important to succulents, allowing the plants ample breathing space is an essential part of ensuring that they remain healthy. It is important to move succulents if there is any danger that other plants may block precious sunlight. Placing succulents in a separate area is another solution.
4. Ease off pruning
Succulents grow slowly and many never require any pruning. Gardeners should allow their plants to grow naturally and use secateurs only when absolutely necessary. For example, when space is at a premium and the foliage from one succulent prevents sunlight from reaching another plant.
5. Put down the watering can
Contrary to popular belief, succulents need no more water than other plants and often require less than others that are popular in temperate climates. They have thick stems and leaves that store water efficiently, which is why they often need less frequent watering. In general, gardeners should water succulents when the plants are visibly dry.
6. Pay attention to drainage and fertilizer
The soil that works best for many plants is not always best for succulents, which thrive in porous soil that drains quickly and easily. Mixing ordinary healthy soil with sand at a ratio of around 30/70 ensures that the soil around the plant does not store too much water. Succulents also require less fertilizer than many other plants. A low-balanced soluble fertilizer delivered at half or a quarter of the quantity for ordinary plants is sufficient.
7. Choose green succulents
Succulents often prove to be a challenge for new gardeners, so it is always best to start by growing green succulents, such as cacti, Agave, or Aloe plants. These are some of the hardiest varieties and do well indoors if placed next to a large window.
8. Kill pests
As with all plants, bugs and pests can damage succulents quickly. Gardeners must check plants for insect infestation thoroughly and regularly, and get rid of pests as quickly as possible. Watering sparingly is a good way to avoid gnats. A natural pesticide that is not harmful to houseplants is also beneficial.
9. Keep succulents warm
Succulents are easy to maintain and tolerant to drought, but healthy succulents do not survive even a light frost. As succulents are not suited to colder climates that sometimes occur in mountainous regions, gardeners in these areas must keep these plants indoors during winter.
10. Avoid ornate pots
Correct drainage and preventing water storage is vital for succulents, so ornate plant pots with no holes at the bottom can cause problems. Simple clay or plastic plant pots allow better drainage than glass or metal.
1. Use the sun
Succulents may be hardy, but they still like plenty of sunshine because they are desert plants. Gardeners should always place succulents on a sun porch or in a greenhouse so that the plants get plenty of natural light. If growing them indoors, succulents should be placed as close to a large window as possible, and ideally one that faces the direction that the sun rises for maximise exposure.
2. Take succulents outside
A lack of sunlight is the biggest threat to plants, including succulents. If gardeners want to grow succulents indoors but find that an acceptable level of sunlight is not reaching the plants, they should simply move them outside for a couple of days each week. This helps succulents to reach their full potential.
3. Give succulents some space
As sunlight is so important to succulents, allowing the plants ample breathing space is an essential part of ensuring that they remain healthy. It is important to move succulents if there is any danger that other plants may block precious sunlight. Placing succulents in a separate area is another solution.
4. Ease off pruning
Succulents grow slowly and many never require any pruning. Gardeners should allow their plants to grow naturally and use secateurs only when absolutely necessary. For example, when space is at a premium and the foliage from one succulent prevents sunlight from reaching another plant.
5. Put down the watering can
Contrary to popular belief, succulents need no more water than other plants and often require less than others that are popular in temperate climates. They have thick stems and leaves that store water efficiently, which is why they often need less frequent watering. In general, gardeners should water succulents when the plants are visibly dry.
6. Pay attention to drainage and fertilizer
The soil that works best for many plants is not always best for succulents, which thrive in porous soil that drains quickly and easily. Mixing ordinary healthy soil with sand at a ratio of around 30/70 ensures that the soil around the plant does not store too much water. Succulents also require less fertilizer than many other plants. A low-balanced soluble fertilizer delivered at half or a quarter of the quantity for ordinary plants is sufficient.
7. Choose green succulents
Succulents often prove to be a challenge for new gardeners, so it is always best to start by growing green succulents, such as cacti, Agave, or Aloe plants. These are some of the hardiest varieties and do well indoors if placed next to a large window.
8. Kill pests
As with all plants, bugs and pests can damage succulents quickly. Gardeners must check plants for insect infestation thoroughly and regularly, and get rid of pests as quickly as possible. Watering sparingly is a good way to avoid gnats. A natural pesticide that is not harmful to houseplants is also beneficial.
9. Keep succulents warm
Succulents are easy to maintain and tolerant to drought, but healthy succulents do not survive even a light frost. As succulents are not suited to colder climates that sometimes occur in mountainous regions, gardeners in these areas must keep these plants indoors during winter.
10. Avoid ornate pots
Correct drainage and preventing water storage is vital for succulents, so ornate plant pots with no holes at the bottom can cause problems. Simple clay or plastic plant pots allow better drainage than glass or metal.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Cleistocactus is a genus of columnar cacti native to mountainous areas of Peru, Uruguay, Bolivia and Argentina and can be found growing in large shrubby clumps mixed in with other vegetation or clamoring over boulders. The name comes from the Greek “kleistos” meaning closed because the flowers hardly open.
Some might say that Cliestocactus is a genus of quantity over quality. That is, many of the features of this genus are small, but profuse. The stems are typically only an inch (2.5 cm) or so in diameter, but branch readily at the base to form noticeable clumps. The spines in general are likewise small and flexible, but in most cases are very numerous even to the point of obscuring the stems. This trait is continued with the flowers. Many species have flowers that resemble little tubes of lipstick or firecrackers. Yet the stems may be full of these flowers with many buds in the making. In the right conditions a plant my have flowers open every day of the year.
Several species are extremely popular in cultivation and are among the most common of cactus in nurseries worldwide; the two most popular of all being Cleistocactus strausii and Cleistocactus winteri.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Choose a location that gets full sun and has well-draining soil. Water Cleistocactus during the spring and summer when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil dries out. During the fall, reduce watering to every five weeks if the ground dries out. In winter, keep Cleistocactus dry or the moist ground combined with the cool temperatures and dormancy may cause the roots to rot. Fertilize Cleistocactus with a low-nitrogen fertilizer during the active growth period. A slow-release fertilizer applied in the spring will be sufficient for the whole year.
Propagation
It is possible to propagate by cutting a small branch from a Cleistocactus and rooting it, but this inevitably leaves a disfiguring scar near the base of the main stem. If an offset is removed to be used in propagation, remember to let it dry for a week or so, letting the wound heal. Rooting usually occurs within 3-8 weeks. It is therefore best to raise Cleistocactus from seed. Be sure to get the seeds from a reputable source.
Problems
Watch for infestations mealy bugs and spider mite.
Some might say that Cliestocactus is a genus of quantity over quality. That is, many of the features of this genus are small, but profuse. The stems are typically only an inch (2.5 cm) or so in diameter, but branch readily at the base to form noticeable clumps. The spines in general are likewise small and flexible, but in most cases are very numerous even to the point of obscuring the stems. This trait is continued with the flowers. Many species have flowers that resemble little tubes of lipstick or firecrackers. Yet the stems may be full of these flowers with many buds in the making. In the right conditions a plant my have flowers open every day of the year.
Several species are extremely popular in cultivation and are among the most common of cactus in nurseries worldwide; the two most popular of all being Cleistocactus strausii and Cleistocactus winteri.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Choose a location that gets full sun and has well-draining soil. Water Cleistocactus during the spring and summer when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil dries out. During the fall, reduce watering to every five weeks if the ground dries out. In winter, keep Cleistocactus dry or the moist ground combined with the cool temperatures and dormancy may cause the roots to rot. Fertilize Cleistocactus with a low-nitrogen fertilizer during the active growth period. A slow-release fertilizer applied in the spring will be sufficient for the whole year.
Propagation
It is possible to propagate by cutting a small branch from a Cleistocactus and rooting it, but this inevitably leaves a disfiguring scar near the base of the main stem. If an offset is removed to be used in propagation, remember to let it dry for a week or so, letting the wound heal. Rooting usually occurs within 3-8 weeks. It is therefore best to raise Cleistocactus from seed. Be sure to get the seeds from a reputable source.
Problems
Watch for infestations mealy bugs and spider mite.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Frithia are low-growing evergreen succulent perennials with erect, club-shaped leaves with a clear window at the apex, and solitary, daisy-like red to purple flowers in late winter.
The genus Frithia was established by N.E. Brown (1925), a taxonomist based at Kew Herbarium. At that stage no species were assigned to this genus and only later was a full description of Frithia pulchra given (Brown 1926). It was named after Frank Frith (1872 – 1954), a railway services gardener stationed at Park Station, Johannesburg, who took the specimens to Brown at Kew while on a visit to London. Brown named Frithia in honour of the man who brought him the specimens. The specific epithet “pulchra” is derived from the Latin “pulcher” meaning beautiful.
Growing Conditions
Light: The plant will take as much light as you can give it, but fierce sunshine could “scorch” the plant. In habitat the plant overcomes this problem by only having the leaf tips showing above the ground.
Soil: An open compost is essential and if the only pot available is a deep one fill the bottom half with coarse grit or gravel.
Water: Frithia is not shy of water and should be watered regularly during the growing season, but the water must be able to drain away quickly. Keep the plant dry in winter.
Fertilizer: When in growth feed every two or three weeks with a low nitrogen liquid fertilizer.
General Care
Frithia is a summer grower and relatively easy to cultivate. It need light sporadic watering during its winter resting period and requires moderate sprinkling in summer as it is rot prone if kept too moist when the heat turns off its growth cycle. Gritty, well drained soil, containing a small amount of organic material will keep this species happy. Frithia can be grown in pots or out of doors in a rockery. Soak the compost fully but allow it to dry out perfectly between waterings. Under-watering can lead to disastrous results, so be generous with water in summer. Nearly all problems occur as a result of overwatering and poor ventilation, especially when weather conditions are dull and cool or very humid. Keep dry in the winter. It does well in full blazing sun, as well as whit some shade in summer.
Propagation
Frithias can be sown from seed sown in a gritty sandstone medium or propagated vegetatively by division.
The genus Frithia was established by N.E. Brown (1925), a taxonomist based at Kew Herbarium. At that stage no species were assigned to this genus and only later was a full description of Frithia pulchra given (Brown 1926). It was named after Frank Frith (1872 – 1954), a railway services gardener stationed at Park Station, Johannesburg, who took the specimens to Brown at Kew while on a visit to London. Brown named Frithia in honour of the man who brought him the specimens. The specific epithet “pulchra” is derived from the Latin “pulcher” meaning beautiful.
Growing Conditions
Light: The plant will take as much light as you can give it, but fierce sunshine could “scorch” the plant. In habitat the plant overcomes this problem by only having the leaf tips showing above the ground.
Soil: An open compost is essential and if the only pot available is a deep one fill the bottom half with coarse grit or gravel.
Water: Frithia is not shy of water and should be watered regularly during the growing season, but the water must be able to drain away quickly. Keep the plant dry in winter.
Fertilizer: When in growth feed every two or three weeks with a low nitrogen liquid fertilizer.
General Care
Frithia is a summer grower and relatively easy to cultivate. It need light sporadic watering during its winter resting period and requires moderate sprinkling in summer as it is rot prone if kept too moist when the heat turns off its growth cycle. Gritty, well drained soil, containing a small amount of organic material will keep this species happy. Frithia can be grown in pots or out of doors in a rockery. Soak the compost fully but allow it to dry out perfectly between waterings. Under-watering can lead to disastrous results, so be generous with water in summer. Nearly all problems occur as a result of overwatering and poor ventilation, especially when weather conditions are dull and cool or very humid. Keep dry in the winter. It does well in full blazing sun, as well as whit some shade in summer.
Propagation
Frithias can be sown from seed sown in a gritty sandstone medium or propagated vegetatively by division.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Titanopsis is a small genus of dwarf succulents from the family of Aizoaceae. Naturally growing in the Upper Karoo in South Africa, it is an attractive but quite unusual plant because of its formation. The plant grows as a dwarf succulent and produces thick truncated leaves that have crumpled surface. These unusual leaves display all the hues of red, purple, green, cream and blue throughout the year. Flowers appear in late fall and winter. Like its cousins in the Aizoaceae family, Titanopsis produces small daisy-like flowers of yellow color.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Titanopsis grows to form clumps. These clumps can be divided for further propagation of the plant.
The maintenance of Titanopsis is not difficult. They need a sandy substrate with little organic material. They are winter grower, and should be kept relatively dry in summer. They should also be kept dry when the temperature is below 45° F (7° C).
The best place to grow T. calcarea – the more popular species from the eastern areas is a sunny spot where it gets bright sunlight in summer and direct exposure to the sun in winter. Other popular species of Titanopsis include: T. fulleri and T. primosii.
Propagation
Division of larger clumps is possible in some cases, but as most species have tuberous rootstocks and offset slowly, seed production is the most common method of propagation. Sow it in spring and it should start flowering after two years.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Titanopsis grows to form clumps. These clumps can be divided for further propagation of the plant.
The maintenance of Titanopsis is not difficult. They need a sandy substrate with little organic material. They are winter grower, and should be kept relatively dry in summer. They should also be kept dry when the temperature is below 45° F (7° C).
The best place to grow T. calcarea – the more popular species from the eastern areas is a sunny spot where it gets bright sunlight in summer and direct exposure to the sun in winter. Other popular species of Titanopsis include: T. fulleri and T. primosii.
Propagation
Division of larger clumps is possible in some cases, but as most species have tuberous rootstocks and offset slowly, seed production is the most common method of propagation. Sow it in spring and it should start flowering after two years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
A small- to medium-sized slow-growing Mexican member of the succulent family Crassulaceae (making them relatives of Kalanchoe and Jade Plant). Pachyphytum leaves are plump and fleshy, and range in color from green to lovely orange and even purple. The leaves form a loose rosette. They may be grape-shaped or tubular, and may have a powdery coating called farina. Pachyphytum forms small, unimpressive bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer which are usually greenish-white and deep red, and which grow on long spikey inflorescences. Pachyphytum rosettes will not die after flowering. The genus name Pachyphytum comes from the Greek for “thick leaves”. It grows in both shrub-forming and stemless rosettes and eventually forms clumps.
Pachyphytum plants are fairly hardy, and are common houseplants. However, like Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves, in particular those with a pearlescent coloration or farina.
Growing Conditions
Pachyphytum will not tolerate frosts well. Temperatures below 20 °F (-6 °C) will kill the plant, and temperatures which may go below 45 °F (7 °C) during extended period should be avoided. Pachyphytum tolerates high heat and intense sunlight. As with most Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum can tolerate (and even appreciated) poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Pachyphytum can thrive in full or partial sunlight.
Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require more water, as winter begins its active growth season. If you are unsure when to water your Pachyphytum, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Pachyphytum is FAR more likely to survive under-watering than over-watering. The thick fleshy leaves will appear wilted and a bit “under-full” when they need water.
Propagation
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
General Care
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the plant, as your body oils will leave marks.
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Pests and Problems
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Pachyphytum may fall prey to this pest. The symptoms of a mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots or look at the leaf-stem junctions. A white cottony substance is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Dab the cottony spots with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alchohol. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your Pachyphytum, it’s leaves are very sensitive.
Pachyphytum plants are fairly hardy, and are common houseplants. However, like Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves, in particular those with a pearlescent coloration or farina.
Growing Conditions
Pachyphytum will not tolerate frosts well. Temperatures below 20 °F (-6 °C) will kill the plant, and temperatures which may go below 45 °F (7 °C) during extended period should be avoided. Pachyphytum tolerates high heat and intense sunlight. As with most Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum can tolerate (and even appreciated) poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Pachyphytum can thrive in full or partial sunlight.
Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require more water, as winter begins its active growth season. If you are unsure when to water your Pachyphytum, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Pachyphytum is FAR more likely to survive under-watering than over-watering. The thick fleshy leaves will appear wilted and a bit “under-full” when they need water.
Propagation
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
General Care
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the plant, as your body oils will leave marks.
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Pests and Problems
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Pachyphytum may fall prey to this pest. The symptoms of a mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots or look at the leaf-stem junctions. A white cottony substance is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Dab the cottony spots with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alchohol. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your Pachyphytum, it’s leaves are very sensitive.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Aptenia is a small genus of flowering plants in the family Aizoaceae. They are native to southern Africa. These are succulent subshrubs growing from a system of fibrous, often fleshy roots. The stems lie prostrate on the ground or may climb. The stem bases are woody, and the stems are green. The leaves are mostly oppositely arranged, but those near the inflorescences may be alternate. The leaf blades are flat, hairless, sometimes waxy, and usually heart-shaped, or occasionally lance-shaped. Flowers are solitary or grow in small, whorled clusters, usually in the leaf axils along the stem. The flower is about 0.4 inch (1 cm) wide. There are two large sepals and two smaller. The corolla contains many narrow petals in shades of pink, purple, yellow, or white, and several staminodes that look very much like the petals. The many fertile stamens at the center are white or yellow. The fruit is a capsule with four valves.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Aptenia only when the soil is completely dry, and then provide enough to drench the soil to a depth of about 6 inches (15 cm). To check for dryness, poke your finger into the soil. Never water if the soil feels damp or cool, as Aptenia, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. Water Aptenia lightly during the winter if the leaves begin to look shriveled. Provide only enough water to moisten the soil as the plant deteriorates quickly in cool, damp soil.
Withhold fertilizer, which isn’t needed and often results in a weak, floppy plant. Trim the plant as needed throughout the growing season, using pruners or garden shears to keep the plant tidy. Pot the plant and bring it indoors for the winter when nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Grower’s Tips
Aptenia isn’t difficult to grow in pots. Use a combination of 1 part potting mix and 1 part sand or a commercial mixture for cacti and succulents. Put the pot in direct sunlight and water deeply whenever the soil feels dry.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Aptenia only when the soil is completely dry, and then provide enough to drench the soil to a depth of about 6 inches (15 cm). To check for dryness, poke your finger into the soil. Never water if the soil feels damp or cool, as Aptenia, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. Water Aptenia lightly during the winter if the leaves begin to look shriveled. Provide only enough water to moisten the soil as the plant deteriorates quickly in cool, damp soil.
Withhold fertilizer, which isn’t needed and often results in a weak, floppy plant. Trim the plant as needed throughout the growing season, using pruners or garden shears to keep the plant tidy. Pot the plant and bring it indoors for the winter when nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Grower’s Tips
Aptenia isn’t difficult to grow in pots. Use a combination of 1 part potting mix and 1 part sand or a commercial mixture for cacti and succulents. Put the pot in direct sunlight and water deeply whenever the soil feels dry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Saguaro Cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) blossoms are the state flower of Arizona. The cactus is a very slow growing plant, which may add only 1 to 1,5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) in the first eight years of life. The Saguaro grows arms or lateral stems but it may take up to 75 years to produce the first one. Saguaro are very long lived and many found in the desert are 175 years old. It is likely that rather than growing Saguaro cactus in the home garden, you may find yourself the becoming owner of a well established Saguaro when you buy a new home or build a home on land where Saguaro Cactus already grow.
Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet (1,220 m). If they are growing above 4,000 feet (1,220 m), the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro Cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is not legal to procure a Saguaro Cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted.
Saguaro Cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro Cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation.
Saguaro Cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle.
There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms
Saguaro Cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across. The Saguaro blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet (1,220 m). If they are growing above 4,000 feet (1,220 m), the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro Cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is not legal to procure a Saguaro Cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted.
Saguaro Cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro Cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation.
Saguaro Cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle.
There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms
Saguaro Cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across. The Saguaro blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you are fighting your Aloe vera plant for flowers, you are not alone. Most people struggle to get their Aloe vera plants to bloom when growing them indoors. But their usual yellow or orange tubular flowers, grown high on long, elegant stems, are a rare sighting in households due to the inadequate sunlight they receive.
Aloe vera plants are built for the desert climate of Africa, where they receive large amounts of direct sunlight for a majority of the day. This large dose of bright light that Aloe veras are accustomed to does not translate smoothly to a household setting, where the location of the house and the plant may limit the amount of sunlight that reaches the plant.
Adjusting the Indoor Placement of Your Aloe Vera Plant
Due to the natural environment of the Aloe vera, the main trick is to give your houseplant as much light as possible. Indoor placement is key. Typically sitting on kitchen windowsills, the Aloe vera plant does not receive the sunlight it is used to or needs when raised indoors. You want to place your plant on a windowsill that receives a lot of direct sunlight, with nothing obstructing the plant’s line of sunlight or keeping it in the shade. At certain points in the day, some areas of your house also receive more light than others. Therefore, it is best to change the location of your plant throughout the day, allowing for it to follow the sun. The more exposure to sunlight, the better. During the summer months, you can also move your plant outside, as it is no longer in danger of freezing and an outdoor environment nicely mimics the high-sunlight desert conditions it needs to bloom.
Other Tricks for Getting Your Resistant Aloe to Bloom:
1. Wait for your Aloe Plant to Mature
You may be expecting too much from your newborn plant. Aloe veras tend to bloom only once they have reached maturity–a stage in their life that takes approximately 4 years to reach. If you have just begun caring for your plant, it is simply not ready. Have patience, and while you are waiting, take proper care of your Aloe vera by giving it the sunlight, water, and soil it needs to reach old age and bloom.
2. Know When To Expect Aloe Vera Flowers
Aloe vera plants do not have flowers year-round. They usually bloom annually in the early springtime, so time your expectations correctly. If you are concerned why your plant has no signs of buds in the winter, that is just because the timing is not yet right.
3. Fertilize or Repot Your Plant
A healthy Aloe vera plant is more likely to produce the bright flowers you are looking for. To be healthy, an Aloe vera needs soil that can provides it with adequate nutrients. By either giving your plant fertilizer to replenish the old soil’s vitamins and minerals or repotting it to give it new soil and a new supply of nutrients, you can keep your plant healthy and watch it grow.
Another way to encourage Aloe vera plants to bloom is by propagating them. The Aloe vera plant has bulbs that grow off of the main plant; you can and should remove them if you want a flowering plant. By taking away the additional bulbs, you give the main plant more energy to put into producing those tall, beautiful flowers.
If you succeed in getting your Aloe vera plant to bloom indoors, congratulations! Enjoy the rare beauty.
Aloe vera plants are built for the desert climate of Africa, where they receive large amounts of direct sunlight for a majority of the day. This large dose of bright light that Aloe veras are accustomed to does not translate smoothly to a household setting, where the location of the house and the plant may limit the amount of sunlight that reaches the plant.
Adjusting the Indoor Placement of Your Aloe Vera Plant
Due to the natural environment of the Aloe vera, the main trick is to give your houseplant as much light as possible. Indoor placement is key. Typically sitting on kitchen windowsills, the Aloe vera plant does not receive the sunlight it is used to or needs when raised indoors. You want to place your plant on a windowsill that receives a lot of direct sunlight, with nothing obstructing the plant’s line of sunlight or keeping it in the shade. At certain points in the day, some areas of your house also receive more light than others. Therefore, it is best to change the location of your plant throughout the day, allowing for it to follow the sun. The more exposure to sunlight, the better. During the summer months, you can also move your plant outside, as it is no longer in danger of freezing and an outdoor environment nicely mimics the high-sunlight desert conditions it needs to bloom.
Other Tricks for Getting Your Resistant Aloe to Bloom:
1. Wait for your Aloe Plant to Mature
You may be expecting too much from your newborn plant. Aloe veras tend to bloom only once they have reached maturity–a stage in their life that takes approximately 4 years to reach. If you have just begun caring for your plant, it is simply not ready. Have patience, and while you are waiting, take proper care of your Aloe vera by giving it the sunlight, water, and soil it needs to reach old age and bloom.
2. Know When To Expect Aloe Vera Flowers
Aloe vera plants do not have flowers year-round. They usually bloom annually in the early springtime, so time your expectations correctly. If you are concerned why your plant has no signs of buds in the winter, that is just because the timing is not yet right.
3. Fertilize or Repot Your Plant
A healthy Aloe vera plant is more likely to produce the bright flowers you are looking for. To be healthy, an Aloe vera needs soil that can provides it with adequate nutrients. By either giving your plant fertilizer to replenish the old soil’s vitamins and minerals or repotting it to give it new soil and a new supply of nutrients, you can keep your plant healthy and watch it grow.
Another way to encourage Aloe vera plants to bloom is by propagating them. The Aloe vera plant has bulbs that grow off of the main plant; you can and should remove them if you want a flowering plant. By taking away the additional bulbs, you give the main plant more energy to put into producing those tall, beautiful flowers.
If you succeed in getting your Aloe vera plant to bloom indoors, congratulations! Enjoy the rare beauty.
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