文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
Sempervivum arachnoideum (Cobweb Houseleek, Spider Web Hens and Chicks) is low-growing, evergreen, perennial succulent, native to the mountain of Europe from the Pyrenees to the Carpathians.
Cobweb Houseleek is valued in cultivation for its ability to colonize hot, dry areas via offsets.
The plant has been variously utilized by the local populations in the traditional medicine and furthermore when growing on the roofs it was used to protect the houses against thunderbolts and witchcraft.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
Sempervivum arachnoideum (Cobweb Houseleek, Spider Web Hens and Chicks) is low-growing, evergreen, perennial succulent, native to the mountain of Europe from the Pyrenees to the Carpathians.
The leaves of Cobweb Houseleek are emollient, haemostatic, ophthalmic and sedative.
The crushed plant, or its juice, is applied externally to boils, wounds etc and is also used to stop nose bleeds. The slightly warmed juice has been used to relieve ear inflammations and toothaches can be relieved by chewing on the leaves. When macerated and infused in vinegar, the plant can be used to get rid of warts and corns.
The leaves are harvested in the summer and are best used when fresh since they are difficult to dry properly. The leaf pulp is used to make a cooling face mask for reddened or sunburnt skin.
The leaves of Cobweb Houseleek are emollient, haemostatic, ophthalmic and sedative.
The crushed plant, or its juice, is applied externally to boils, wounds etc and is also used to stop nose bleeds. The slightly warmed juice has been used to relieve ear inflammations and toothaches can be relieved by chewing on the leaves. When macerated and infused in vinegar, the plant can be used to get rid of warts and corns.
The leaves are harvested in the summer and are best used when fresh since they are difficult to dry properly. The leaf pulp is used to make a cooling face mask for reddened or sunburnt skin.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
The Agave lechuguilla (Lechuguilla) is the smallest Agave growing in the Trans-Pecos area of the Chihuahuan Desert. Its leaves are usually less than an inch wide and the plant ranges from 12 to 18 inches in height. Though sometimes listed as an indicator species of the Chihuahuan, that is not strictly the case, as this plant can also be found in the Sonoran and Coahuilan deserts as well. It is the dominant plant species on over 38,000 square miles of calcareous soils that are of little use for anything else.
Lechuguilla frequently grows in almost impenetrable thickets, and its stiff, inwardly curved spines are capable of piercing skin, leather, and even off-road vehicle tires. If you’ve ever stepped in one you understand first-hand how the curvature of the spine helps it dig deep into your calf; how its backwardly aimed side spines make it difficult to get free, and how its deep puncture wounds hurt like the dickens and can take months to heal. These spines can cripple a horse and severely injure any human who happens to fall upon it. If there is one plant in the Chihuahuan desert to avoid, this is it.
But Lechuguilla is not all bad. Like its other Agave brethren, it stays green year round. When it’s old enough it sends up a flower stalk that rises 10 to 15 feet; it is covered with lovely wine and yellow colored flowers.
Since the flowering stalk is so tall, you may spend quite a bit of time visiting the Chihuahuan Desert without seeing the small flowers which create this display.
Lechuguilla, as much as any other plant in the Trans Pecos, gives our area the look that tells us this is home. When it is in bloom Lechuguilla hosts countless pollinating insects, including the Cohuila Giant Skipper that is entirely dependent on this plant. After flowering, the remaining stalk is one of the few viable alternatives to wood to be found in the Chihuahuan desert.
Lechuguilla has been used for food, drink, and fiber for over 10,000 years. The toxic juices have been used as an arrow poison, a fish stupefier, a medicine, and a soap. Aztecs made a powerful antibiotic from a mixture of Lechuguilla juice and salt and used it as a dressing for wounds and a balm for skin infections. The Mescalero Apaches baked the central stems in pits and then rolled out the pulp, dried it and stored it as a sort of sweat bread. They also fermented the pulp to make an alcoholic drink that is made today and sold in Mexico as “Clandestino”. The water stored in the leaves is rich in salts and minerals and is sold as a sports drink.
People have always valued lechuguilla for its fiber. Its leaves are so thick with fiber that it is difficult to see how the plant stores anything else inside. The fibers are long, tough, resilient, strong, and extremely durable. Native Americans fashioned lechuguilla fibers into sandals, baskets, nets, rugs, cordage and a wide range of other products. Lechuguilla sandals have been recovered from numerous rock shelters in the eastern Trans-Pecos.
Lechuguilla frequently grows in almost impenetrable thickets, and its stiff, inwardly curved spines are capable of piercing skin, leather, and even off-road vehicle tires. If you’ve ever stepped in one you understand first-hand how the curvature of the spine helps it dig deep into your calf; how its backwardly aimed side spines make it difficult to get free, and how its deep puncture wounds hurt like the dickens and can take months to heal. These spines can cripple a horse and severely injure any human who happens to fall upon it. If there is one plant in the Chihuahuan desert to avoid, this is it.
But Lechuguilla is not all bad. Like its other Agave brethren, it stays green year round. When it’s old enough it sends up a flower stalk that rises 10 to 15 feet; it is covered with lovely wine and yellow colored flowers.
Since the flowering stalk is so tall, you may spend quite a bit of time visiting the Chihuahuan Desert without seeing the small flowers which create this display.
Lechuguilla, as much as any other plant in the Trans Pecos, gives our area the look that tells us this is home. When it is in bloom Lechuguilla hosts countless pollinating insects, including the Cohuila Giant Skipper that is entirely dependent on this plant. After flowering, the remaining stalk is one of the few viable alternatives to wood to be found in the Chihuahuan desert.
Lechuguilla has been used for food, drink, and fiber for over 10,000 years. The toxic juices have been used as an arrow poison, a fish stupefier, a medicine, and a soap. Aztecs made a powerful antibiotic from a mixture of Lechuguilla juice and salt and used it as a dressing for wounds and a balm for skin infections. The Mescalero Apaches baked the central stems in pits and then rolled out the pulp, dried it and stored it as a sort of sweat bread. They also fermented the pulp to make an alcoholic drink that is made today and sold in Mexico as “Clandestino”. The water stored in the leaves is rich in salts and minerals and is sold as a sports drink.
People have always valued lechuguilla for its fiber. Its leaves are so thick with fiber that it is difficult to see how the plant stores anything else inside. The fibers are long, tough, resilient, strong, and extremely durable. Native Americans fashioned lechuguilla fibers into sandals, baskets, nets, rugs, cordage and a wide range of other products. Lechuguilla sandals have been recovered from numerous rock shelters in the eastern Trans-Pecos.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
People have been growing Aloe vera for literally thousands of years. It is one of the most widely used medicinal plants on the planet. If you are wondering, “How can I grow an aloe plant?” We are here to tell you that taking care of an Aloe Vera plant in your home is easy.
Keep reading to learn more about how to grow and care for an Aloe Vera plant.
Growing Conditions
The first step in Aloe Vera care is to realize that this plant is a succulent. Like cacti, succulents do best in dry conditions. When growing Aloe Vera plants, plant them in a cactus potting soil mix or a regular potting soil that has been amended with additional perlite or building sand. Also, make sure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. It cannot tolerate standing water.
One important thing in the care of Aloe Vera houseplants is that they have proper light. They need bright light, so they do best in south- or west-facing windows.
General Care
Another important part of how to grow an Aloe Vera is to water the plant properly. The soil should be allowed to go completely dry before being watered. When the plant is watered, the soil should be thoroughly drenched, but the water should be allowed to drain freely from the soil. The most common reason an Aloe Vera dies is that the owners water too often or do not allow the water to drain. Do not make this mistake when taking care of Aloe houseplants.
You can fertilize your Aloe Vera, but Aloes do not need to be fertilized. If you decide to add fertilizing to part of your Aloe Vera plant care routine, plants should be fertilized once a year in the spring. You can use a phosphorus-heavy water-based fertilizer at half strength.
Growing Aloe Vera houseplants is not only easy but can also provide your family with a plant that can help treat minor burns and rashes. Now that you know a little more about how to care for an Aloe Vera plant, you need never be without this lovely and helpful plant.
Keep reading to learn more about how to grow and care for an Aloe Vera plant.
Growing Conditions
The first step in Aloe Vera care is to realize that this plant is a succulent. Like cacti, succulents do best in dry conditions. When growing Aloe Vera plants, plant them in a cactus potting soil mix or a regular potting soil that has been amended with additional perlite or building sand. Also, make sure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. It cannot tolerate standing water.
One important thing in the care of Aloe Vera houseplants is that they have proper light. They need bright light, so they do best in south- or west-facing windows.
General Care
Another important part of how to grow an Aloe Vera is to water the plant properly. The soil should be allowed to go completely dry before being watered. When the plant is watered, the soil should be thoroughly drenched, but the water should be allowed to drain freely from the soil. The most common reason an Aloe Vera dies is that the owners water too often or do not allow the water to drain. Do not make this mistake when taking care of Aloe houseplants.
You can fertilize your Aloe Vera, but Aloes do not need to be fertilized. If you decide to add fertilizing to part of your Aloe Vera plant care routine, plants should be fertilized once a year in the spring. You can use a phosphorus-heavy water-based fertilizer at half strength.
Growing Aloe Vera houseplants is not only easy but can also provide your family with a plant that can help treat minor burns and rashes. Now that you know a little more about how to care for an Aloe Vera plant, you need never be without this lovely and helpful plant.
2
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
Scientific Name
Sedum furfuraceum Moran
Common Names
Bonsai Sedum
Scientific Classification
Family: Crassulaceae
Subfamily: Sedoideae
Tribe: Sedeae
Subtribe: Sedinae
Genus: Sedum
Description
Sedum furfuraceum is a low growing, branching succulent up to 4 inches (10 cm) tall and spreading slowly up to 1 foot (30 cm) wide, on creeping stems with small upturned up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) long, egg-shaped, dark green leaves, covered in scurfy, whitish scales and aligned in tight spiral rows. Leaves are often reddish purple in bright light and lower leaves turn a reddish-orange hue and later drop off to expose twisted, thick, gray-white stems. In early spring appear the pinkish-white, star-like flowers that each lasts for about 10 days.
How to Grow and Care
When growing Sedum, keep in mind that Sedum plants need very little attention or care. They will thrive in conditions that many other plants thrive in, but will do just as well in less hospitable areas. They are ideal for that part of your yard that gets too much sun or too little water to grow anything else. A common name for Sedum is Stonecrop, due to the fact that many gardeners joke that only stones need less care and live longer.
Sedum is easily planted. For shorter varieties, simply laying the plant on the ground where you want it to grow is normally enough to get the Sedum plant started there. They will send out roots from wherever the stem is touching the ground and root itself. If you would like to further ensure that the plant will start there, you can add a very thin covering of soil over the plant. For taller Sedum varieties, you can break off one of the stems and push it into the ground where you would like to grow it.
Sedum furfuraceum Moran
Common Names
Bonsai Sedum
Scientific Classification
Family: Crassulaceae
Subfamily: Sedoideae
Tribe: Sedeae
Subtribe: Sedinae
Genus: Sedum
Description
Sedum furfuraceum is a low growing, branching succulent up to 4 inches (10 cm) tall and spreading slowly up to 1 foot (30 cm) wide, on creeping stems with small upturned up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) long, egg-shaped, dark green leaves, covered in scurfy, whitish scales and aligned in tight spiral rows. Leaves are often reddish purple in bright light and lower leaves turn a reddish-orange hue and later drop off to expose twisted, thick, gray-white stems. In early spring appear the pinkish-white, star-like flowers that each lasts for about 10 days.
How to Grow and Care
When growing Sedum, keep in mind that Sedum plants need very little attention or care. They will thrive in conditions that many other plants thrive in, but will do just as well in less hospitable areas. They are ideal for that part of your yard that gets too much sun or too little water to grow anything else. A common name for Sedum is Stonecrop, due to the fact that many gardeners joke that only stones need less care and live longer.
Sedum is easily planted. For shorter varieties, simply laying the plant on the ground where you want it to grow is normally enough to get the Sedum plant started there. They will send out roots from wherever the stem is touching the ground and root itself. If you would like to further ensure that the plant will start there, you can add a very thin covering of soil over the plant. For taller Sedum varieties, you can break off one of the stems and push it into the ground where you would like to grow it.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月01日
Scientific Name
Echeveria pallida E.Walther
Common Names
Argentine Echeveria
Scientific Classification
Family: Crassulaceae
Subfamily: Sedoideae
Tribe: Sedeae
Subtribe: Sedinae
Genus: Echeveria
Description
Echeveria pallida is a fast growing succulent plant, up to 20 inches (50 cm) tall. Lax rosettes are up to 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter, on an unbranched stem, up to 1.2 inches (3 cm) in diameter. Leaves are spoon-shaped, lime-green to yellow, with edge lightly glaucous. Flowers are pink, on a up to 3 feet (90 cm) tall inflorescence. Blooms in winter.
How to Grow and Care
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot.
Echeveria pallida E.Walther
Common Names
Argentine Echeveria
Scientific Classification
Family: Crassulaceae
Subfamily: Sedoideae
Tribe: Sedeae
Subtribe: Sedinae
Genus: Echeveria
Description
Echeveria pallida is a fast growing succulent plant, up to 20 inches (50 cm) tall. Lax rosettes are up to 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter, on an unbranched stem, up to 1.2 inches (3 cm) in diameter. Leaves are spoon-shaped, lime-green to yellow, with edge lightly glaucous. Flowers are pink, on a up to 3 feet (90 cm) tall inflorescence. Blooms in winter.
How to Grow and Care
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot.
4
1
mehrdad Jahdi：very nice...
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月01日
Sempervivum arachnoideum (Cobweb Houseleek, Spider Web Hens and Chicks) is low-growing, evergreen, perennial succulent, native to the mountain of Europe from the Pyrenees to the Carpathians.
The leaves of Cobweb Houseleek are emollient, haemostatic, ophthalmic and sedative.
The crushed plant, or its juice, is applied externally to boils, wounds etc and is also used to stop nose bleeds. The slightly warmed juice has been used to relieve ear inflammations and toothaches can be relieved by chewing on the leaves. When macerated and infused in vinegar, the plant can be used to get rid of warts and corns.
The leaves are harvested in the summer and are best used when fresh since they are difficult to dry properly. The leaf pulp is used to make a cooling face mask for reddened or sunburnt skin.
The leaves of Cobweb Houseleek are emollient, haemostatic, ophthalmic and sedative.
The crushed plant, or its juice, is applied externally to boils, wounds etc and is also used to stop nose bleeds. The slightly warmed juice has been used to relieve ear inflammations and toothaches can be relieved by chewing on the leaves. When macerated and infused in vinegar, the plant can be used to get rid of warts and corns.
The leaves are harvested in the summer and are best used when fresh since they are difficult to dry properly. The leaf pulp is used to make a cooling face mask for reddened or sunburnt skin.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月01日
The Agave lechuguilla (Lechuguilla) is the smallest Agave growing in the Trans-Pecos area of the Chihuahuan Desert. Its leaves are usually less than an inch wide and the plant ranges from 12 to 18 inches in height. Though sometimes listed as an indicator species of the Chihuahuan, that is not strictly the case, as this plant can also be found in the Sonoran and Coahuilan deserts as well. It is the dominant plant species on over 38,000 square miles of calcareous soils that are of little use for anything else.
Lechuguilla frequently grows in almost impenetrable thickets, and its stiff, inwardly curved spines are capable of piercing skin, leather, and even off-road vehicle tires. If you’ve ever stepped in one you understand first-hand how the curvature of the spine helps it dig deep into your calf; how its backwardly aimed side spines make it difficult to get free, and how its deep puncture wounds hurt like the dickens and can take months to heal. These spines can cripple a horse and severely injure any human who happens to fall upon it. If there is one plant in the Chihuahuan desert to avoid, this is it.
But Lechuguilla is not all bad. Like its other Agave brethren, it stays green year round. When it’s old enough it sends up a flower stalk that rises 10 to 15 feet; it is covered with lovely wine and yellow colored flowers.
Since the flowering stalk is so tall, you may spend quite a bit of time visiting the Chihuahuan Desert without seeing the small flowers which create this display.
Lechuguilla, as much as any other plant in the Trans Pecos, gives our area the look that tells us this is home. When it is in bloom Lechuguilla hosts countless pollinating insects, including the Cohuila Giant Skipper that is entirely dependent on this plant. After flowering, the remaining stalk is one of the few viable alternatives to wood to be found in the Chihuahuan desert.
Lechuguilla has been used for food, drink, and fiber for over 10,000 years. The toxic juices have been used as an arrow poison, a fish stupefier, a medicine, and a soap. Aztecs made a powerful antibiotic from a mixture of Lechuguilla juice and salt and used it as a dressing for wounds and a balm for skin infections. The Mescalero Apaches baked the central stems in pits and then rolled out the pulp, dried it and stored it as a sort of sweat bread. They also fermented the pulp to make an alcoholic drink that is made today and sold in Mexico as “Clandestino”. The water stored in the leaves is rich in salts and minerals and is sold as a sports drink.
People have always valued lechuguilla for its fiber. Its leaves are so thick with fiber that it is difficult to see how the plant stores anything else inside. The fibers are long, tough, resilient, strong, and extremely durable. Native Americans fashioned lechuguilla fibers into sandals, baskets, nets, rugs, cordage and a wide range of other products. Lechuguilla sandals have been recovered from numerous rock shelters in the eastern Trans-Pecos.
Lechuguilla frequently grows in almost impenetrable thickets, and its stiff, inwardly curved spines are capable of piercing skin, leather, and even off-road vehicle tires. If you’ve ever stepped in one you understand first-hand how the curvature of the spine helps it dig deep into your calf; how its backwardly aimed side spines make it difficult to get free, and how its deep puncture wounds hurt like the dickens and can take months to heal. These spines can cripple a horse and severely injure any human who happens to fall upon it. If there is one plant in the Chihuahuan desert to avoid, this is it.
But Lechuguilla is not all bad. Like its other Agave brethren, it stays green year round. When it’s old enough it sends up a flower stalk that rises 10 to 15 feet; it is covered with lovely wine and yellow colored flowers.
Since the flowering stalk is so tall, you may spend quite a bit of time visiting the Chihuahuan Desert without seeing the small flowers which create this display.
Lechuguilla, as much as any other plant in the Trans Pecos, gives our area the look that tells us this is home. When it is in bloom Lechuguilla hosts countless pollinating insects, including the Cohuila Giant Skipper that is entirely dependent on this plant. After flowering, the remaining stalk is one of the few viable alternatives to wood to be found in the Chihuahuan desert.
Lechuguilla has been used for food, drink, and fiber for over 10,000 years. The toxic juices have been used as an arrow poison, a fish stupefier, a medicine, and a soap. Aztecs made a powerful antibiotic from a mixture of Lechuguilla juice and salt and used it as a dressing for wounds and a balm for skin infections. The Mescalero Apaches baked the central stems in pits and then rolled out the pulp, dried it and stored it as a sort of sweat bread. They also fermented the pulp to make an alcoholic drink that is made today and sold in Mexico as “Clandestino”. The water stored in the leaves is rich in salts and minerals and is sold as a sports drink.
People have always valued lechuguilla for its fiber. Its leaves are so thick with fiber that it is difficult to see how the plant stores anything else inside. The fibers are long, tough, resilient, strong, and extremely durable. Native Americans fashioned lechuguilla fibers into sandals, baskets, nets, rugs, cordage and a wide range of other products. Lechuguilla sandals have been recovered from numerous rock shelters in the eastern Trans-Pecos.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Low-maintenance plants are becoming more and more popular with time, mostly due to the busy life we are living. This is why succulents are one of the most wanted plants at the moment. They are not only easy to care for but are also suitable for growing in containers and are stylish and cool to look at. You can use them in border areas of flower beds, stone and wall beds.
We believe that this is just the start of the era of succulents – with the climate changes and busy lifestyle gardener will turn more and more to low-care, drought-tough plants. Knowing all of these facts, you are surely considering to add these little beauties to your home garden. Choose one of these 10 stylish succulents we are suggesting today as they are all low-maintenance, stylish and simply gorgeous.
1. Golden Sedum (Sedum adolphii)
Sedum adolphii or most commonly known as Golden Sedum will make a great addition to your garden. What makes this species special and one of the best to grow in your home or garden is the fact that they change color. They will turn brighter orange when exposed to sun which is why they are perfect to plant along blue and silver colored flowers. The star shaped flowers will add charm to any garden. Not to mention they are low maintenance and drought tolerant.
2. Hen and Chicks (Echeveria elegans)
Echeveria elegans or Hen and Chicks is a classic succulent that is most commonly present in almost every home and garden. They grow well indoors and out in both cool or hot temperatures. They got the name because of the rosette shape and their ability to produce plenty of “babies”. What makes them one of the most popular succulents is also their ability to thrive on any condition, which means that even poor soil and a tiny container is enough to grow them. They don’t need fertilizer and require very little water.
3. Aloe vera
Aloe vera, also known as Aloe barbadensis, can be grown both outside and inside. Just make sure you place them in full sun. As with any succulent, watering should be minimal during winter while in summer you should soak the soil then let it dry before watering it again. Because of its shallow roots we recommend choosing a wide pot instead of a deep one when replanting. Aloe vera plants are easily propagated. Just remove the offsets which are produced around the base of mature plants when they are a couple inches tall.
4. Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum)
Sedum morganianum or popularly called Burro’s Tail is a beautiful blue colored delicate succulent. When it blooms tiny little red flowers appear. All you need to know if you want to grow this beautiful succulent is that it needs gritty soil, good drainage, sunshine and protection from extreme cold temperatures. This means you can grow it both indoors and in your garden. Only downfall is its delicacy – the leaves will fall off at the slightest touch. Good thing is that you can use the fallen leaves to propagate new plants.
5. Zebra Plant (Haworthia attenuata)
You will easily fall in love with this beautiful succulent. Its beautifully patterned leaves with leathery surface, the small simple white flowers it produces, the fact that it is one of the easiest plants to grow – all these make Haworthia attenuata a favorite plant. This succulent has only two enemies – frost and excess water. If you live in a colder climate keep it inside at least during the winter.
6. Echeveria ‘Lady Aquarius’
Echeverias are among the most popular succulents and Echeveria ‘Lady Aquarius’ is surely the favorite among them. It looks like a ruffly underwater sea anemone forming loose, up to 8 inches (20 cm) rosette. You can grow this beautiful succulent even if you are a beginner gardener as it is tough and resilient. To keep your plant happy and healthy place it in full sun and provide good drainage.
7. Jade Plant (Crassula ovata)
Crassula ovata or commonly known as Jade Plant or Jade Tree is one of the most popular succulents, especially as a house plant. Just like any other succulent they prefer strong light and a well-draining soil. They can tolerate low light and require very little watering. It is very easy to propagate them by simply rooting a cutting of the stem or leaves. Jade Plants’ leaves are rubbery to the touch and quite flexible. If grown in strong light they will get a beautiful red margin.
8. Flaming Katy (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)
Kalanchoe is a succulent praised for its beautiful flowers and Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is the most popular and common species. It can have orange, pink, red, white, or red flowers and some varieties have double flowers. It blooms in winter which makes it even more wanted in every home garden. This attractive plant is low-maintenance like any other succulent and will thrive perfectly in full sun with very little water. Be aware that the frost will hurt it.
9. Queen Victoria Agave (Agave victoriae-reginae)
Agaves are native to the Americas. They are one of the most popular succulents due to their rosette shape, drought resistance and low maintenance in general. The blooming happens once as the plant will die afterwards. Agave victoriae-reginae is probably the favorite among Agave species. It grows to the size of a soccer ball over time.
10. Black Rose (Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’)
Aeoniums are popular succulents because their resemble big, fleshy-petalled daisies and of course they are easy to grow both on your home or in your garden. There are many hybrids and species out there but Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’ is surely a show stopper with its magenta-black. In winter bright yellow flowers contrast with the dark foliage. For best results provide full sun and well-drained soil.
We believe that this is just the start of the era of succulents – with the climate changes and busy lifestyle gardener will turn more and more to low-care, drought-tough plants. Knowing all of these facts, you are surely considering to add these little beauties to your home garden. Choose one of these 10 stylish succulents we are suggesting today as they are all low-maintenance, stylish and simply gorgeous.
1. Golden Sedum (Sedum adolphii)
Sedum adolphii or most commonly known as Golden Sedum will make a great addition to your garden. What makes this species special and one of the best to grow in your home or garden is the fact that they change color. They will turn brighter orange when exposed to sun which is why they are perfect to plant along blue and silver colored flowers. The star shaped flowers will add charm to any garden. Not to mention they are low maintenance and drought tolerant.
2. Hen and Chicks (Echeveria elegans)
Echeveria elegans or Hen and Chicks is a classic succulent that is most commonly present in almost every home and garden. They grow well indoors and out in both cool or hot temperatures. They got the name because of the rosette shape and their ability to produce plenty of “babies”. What makes them one of the most popular succulents is also their ability to thrive on any condition, which means that even poor soil and a tiny container is enough to grow them. They don’t need fertilizer and require very little water.
3. Aloe vera
Aloe vera, also known as Aloe barbadensis, can be grown both outside and inside. Just make sure you place them in full sun. As with any succulent, watering should be minimal during winter while in summer you should soak the soil then let it dry before watering it again. Because of its shallow roots we recommend choosing a wide pot instead of a deep one when replanting. Aloe vera plants are easily propagated. Just remove the offsets which are produced around the base of mature plants when they are a couple inches tall.
4. Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum)
Sedum morganianum or popularly called Burro’s Tail is a beautiful blue colored delicate succulent. When it blooms tiny little red flowers appear. All you need to know if you want to grow this beautiful succulent is that it needs gritty soil, good drainage, sunshine and protection from extreme cold temperatures. This means you can grow it both indoors and in your garden. Only downfall is its delicacy – the leaves will fall off at the slightest touch. Good thing is that you can use the fallen leaves to propagate new plants.
5. Zebra Plant (Haworthia attenuata)
You will easily fall in love with this beautiful succulent. Its beautifully patterned leaves with leathery surface, the small simple white flowers it produces, the fact that it is one of the easiest plants to grow – all these make Haworthia attenuata a favorite plant. This succulent has only two enemies – frost and excess water. If you live in a colder climate keep it inside at least during the winter.
6. Echeveria ‘Lady Aquarius’
Echeverias are among the most popular succulents and Echeveria ‘Lady Aquarius’ is surely the favorite among them. It looks like a ruffly underwater sea anemone forming loose, up to 8 inches (20 cm) rosette. You can grow this beautiful succulent even if you are a beginner gardener as it is tough and resilient. To keep your plant happy and healthy place it in full sun and provide good drainage.
7. Jade Plant (Crassula ovata)
Crassula ovata or commonly known as Jade Plant or Jade Tree is one of the most popular succulents, especially as a house plant. Just like any other succulent they prefer strong light and a well-draining soil. They can tolerate low light and require very little watering. It is very easy to propagate them by simply rooting a cutting of the stem or leaves. Jade Plants’ leaves are rubbery to the touch and quite flexible. If grown in strong light they will get a beautiful red margin.
8. Flaming Katy (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)
Kalanchoe is a succulent praised for its beautiful flowers and Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is the most popular and common species. It can have orange, pink, red, white, or red flowers and some varieties have double flowers. It blooms in winter which makes it even more wanted in every home garden. This attractive plant is low-maintenance like any other succulent and will thrive perfectly in full sun with very little water. Be aware that the frost will hurt it.
9. Queen Victoria Agave (Agave victoriae-reginae)
Agaves are native to the Americas. They are one of the most popular succulents due to their rosette shape, drought resistance and low maintenance in general. The blooming happens once as the plant will die afterwards. Agave victoriae-reginae is probably the favorite among Agave species. It grows to the size of a soccer ball over time.
10. Black Rose (Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’)
Aeoniums are popular succulents because their resemble big, fleshy-petalled daisies and of course they are easy to grow both on your home or in your garden. There are many hybrids and species out there but Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’ is surely a show stopper with its magenta-black. In winter bright yellow flowers contrast with the dark foliage. For best results provide full sun and well-drained soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
The genus Saintpaulia, also known as African Violets are one of the world’s most popular houseplants, and for good reason. These compact, low-growing plants flower several times a year, and they are available in a multitude of leaf forms and colors. Don’t be put off by their reputation for difficulty: providing you follow a few simple rules, African Violets should thrive indoors. With a little experience, it’s possible to keep them in flower nearly all year round and grow them to the size of dinner plates.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, but not direct sunlight. They are commonly grown under fluorescent lights placed 12 to 15 inches (30 to 38 cm) above the leaves.
Water: Keep soil moist with warm water and strive for high humidity. Do not allow water to contact the leaves to prevent damage, other than light misting. Water from below, or push the water spout into the soil when watering. Don’t allow the plant to sit in water.
Temperature: Do not allow to fall below about 60ºF (15ºC). They thrive at 70ºF (21ºC).
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential. Poor drainage can cause root rot, in which the plant becomes waterlogged and its leaves begin to fall, so make sure that the plant is never allowed to be exposed to standing water for an extended period of time.
Fertilizer: Feed with a African Violet fertilizer every other week.
Repotting
African Violets do better when they are slightly underpotted. Repot only when necessary into a pot that is one size up. To repot these plants, simply grab the plant as a whole, lift it, and replace it into a larger container, making sure not to damage their root systems in the process. Common signs that a plant is stressed out and needs to be repotted include falling leaves and overcrowding, as well as roots that protrude from the surface of the soil. Keep an eye out and repot if you think it’ll help.
Propagation
African Violets can be propagated from leaf cuttings or from offsets. Adult plants occasionally produce small plantlets or shoots from the side. Remove these and pot up independently. Removing them also encourages better blooms on the parent plant.
Grower’s Tips
African Violets will thrive in bright, warm and humid conditions. Keep water from touching their leaves or it will leave brown spots. Remove dead flowers and leaves as soon as you seen them to encourage a healthier plant. Regularly check the soil and plant to make sure there is no accumulation of dead leaves. This will encourage rot. Growing these houseplants is really a matter of balance; you have to make sure that the different factors that go into their cultivation all are weighted against each other. They should be kept in moist enough conditions that they don’t dry out, yet still exposed to a fresh breeze to avoid letting them get too stuffy, and exposed to sunlight without damaging their leaf tips. Don’t be discouraged if your African Violets suffer some damage — it’s all part of the process.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, but not direct sunlight. They are commonly grown under fluorescent lights placed 12 to 15 inches (30 to 38 cm) above the leaves.
Water: Keep soil moist with warm water and strive for high humidity. Do not allow water to contact the leaves to prevent damage, other than light misting. Water from below, or push the water spout into the soil when watering. Don’t allow the plant to sit in water.
Temperature: Do not allow to fall below about 60ºF (15ºC). They thrive at 70ºF (21ºC).
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential. Poor drainage can cause root rot, in which the plant becomes waterlogged and its leaves begin to fall, so make sure that the plant is never allowed to be exposed to standing water for an extended period of time.
Fertilizer: Feed with a African Violet fertilizer every other week.
Repotting
African Violets do better when they are slightly underpotted. Repot only when necessary into a pot that is one size up. To repot these plants, simply grab the plant as a whole, lift it, and replace it into a larger container, making sure not to damage their root systems in the process. Common signs that a plant is stressed out and needs to be repotted include falling leaves and overcrowding, as well as roots that protrude from the surface of the soil. Keep an eye out and repot if you think it’ll help.
Propagation
African Violets can be propagated from leaf cuttings or from offsets. Adult plants occasionally produce small plantlets or shoots from the side. Remove these and pot up independently. Removing them also encourages better blooms on the parent plant.
Grower’s Tips
African Violets will thrive in bright, warm and humid conditions. Keep water from touching their leaves or it will leave brown spots. Remove dead flowers and leaves as soon as you seen them to encourage a healthier plant. Regularly check the soil and plant to make sure there is no accumulation of dead leaves. This will encourage rot. Growing these houseplants is really a matter of balance; you have to make sure that the different factors that go into their cultivation all are weighted against each other. They should be kept in moist enough conditions that they don’t dry out, yet still exposed to a fresh breeze to avoid letting them get too stuffy, and exposed to sunlight without damaging their leaf tips. Don’t be discouraged if your African Violets suffer some damage — it’s all part of the process.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
There are two excellent reasons to grow Abutilon species: the flowers or the blooms. In general, the plants feature deeply lobed leaves reminiscent of maple leaves, although these loose-growing shrubs are in no way related to maple trees. Variegated species are grown for their striking, exotic looking leaves, while flowering species have solid green leaves and lovely, pendant flowers in a variety of colors. Although these aren’t the most common houseplants around, extensive work has been done with a handful of species to produce a variety of beautiful cultivars that are prized for their leaf shape and flower color. In terms of culture, these are not particularly difficult plants to grow and prefer a cooler winter room with less water, then warmth and adequate moisture in the summer. For best results, prune the plants to encourage bushiness.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Gazania is a genus of low-growing, trailing ground covers with daisy-like blooms that open on summer and fall days, closing at night. It only grows 0.5 to 1 foot (15 to 30 cm) tall and 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) wide, but its vivid flowers more than make up for its lack of height. Although grown as an annual in much of the country, this plant overwinters in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b through 11. Plant this colorful, low-growing specimen outside in containers or directly into the ground to incorporate it into your landscape.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Plant Gazanias in early spring, in full sun and well-draining soil, spacing multiple plants 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) apart to form a ground cover mat. These flowers can tolerate almost any type of soil — alkaline, acidic, loam, clay and sand — as long as they have good drainage, though they prefer good, fertile loam.
Water the Gazania, keeping it moist after planting until you see new growth. Once growing on its own, this plant is quite drought tolerant, and only requires supplemental water during droughts of three weeks or more. Water in the morning, as Gazanias can succumb to stem and root rots, powdery mildew and leaf spot that can result from staying wet for too long.
Pinch off fading flowers with your fingers to encourage a longer bloom period.
Prune annually in late winter or early spring, beginning in the second season, cutting the foliage back to 2 or 3 inches above the ground with pruning shears. This will refresh the plant and encourage new growth.
Fertilize annually soon after pruning, beginning in the second season, with a teaspoon or two of 10-10-10 granular fertilizer, scattering it evenly around the edges of the plant and watering it into the ground. Gazanias can tolerate soils with low fertility, and actually do not do well with excess fertilizer. In even moderately fertile soil they do not require this application, but it can encourage healthy early season growth.
Plant different varieties of Gazanias in a bunch for a colorful mix.
Propagation
Gazanias are particularly suited for creating a fast-spreading garden spread. They self-seed and grow very quickly. However, you can fasten the propagation process. For this, systematic division of young Gazanias is needed. Choose Gazanias that are about 10 inches (25 cm) tall. Using gardening scissors, cut through the basal stem, dividing it into two halves. Each half will now grow as an individual plant.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Plant Gazanias in early spring, in full sun and well-draining soil, spacing multiple plants 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) apart to form a ground cover mat. These flowers can tolerate almost any type of soil — alkaline, acidic, loam, clay and sand — as long as they have good drainage, though they prefer good, fertile loam.
Water the Gazania, keeping it moist after planting until you see new growth. Once growing on its own, this plant is quite drought tolerant, and only requires supplemental water during droughts of three weeks or more. Water in the morning, as Gazanias can succumb to stem and root rots, powdery mildew and leaf spot that can result from staying wet for too long.
Pinch off fading flowers with your fingers to encourage a longer bloom period.
Prune annually in late winter or early spring, beginning in the second season, cutting the foliage back to 2 or 3 inches above the ground with pruning shears. This will refresh the plant and encourage new growth.
Fertilize annually soon after pruning, beginning in the second season, with a teaspoon or two of 10-10-10 granular fertilizer, scattering it evenly around the edges of the plant and watering it into the ground. Gazanias can tolerate soils with low fertility, and actually do not do well with excess fertilizer. In even moderately fertile soil they do not require this application, but it can encourage healthy early season growth.
Plant different varieties of Gazanias in a bunch for a colorful mix.
Propagation
Gazanias are particularly suited for creating a fast-spreading garden spread. They self-seed and grow very quickly. However, you can fasten the propagation process. For this, systematic division of young Gazanias is needed. Choose Gazanias that are about 10 inches (25 cm) tall. Using gardening scissors, cut through the basal stem, dividing it into two halves. Each half will now grow as an individual plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Create gorgeous displays while protecting tulip (Tulipa) bulbs from predators and the elements by growing them in containers. Tulips are perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, although they don't always come back year after year. Container-grown plants can be interspersed with other in-ground landscaping or used as a focal point in the garden or an entryway. The same technique also works for forcing tulip bulbs to bloom indoors to give a bright, spring-like flair to winter decor.
Choosing a Pot
One of the most important factors when choosing a pot is to make sure it has drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged. Size is also crucial. Look for containers at least 15 inches high with a diameter of 18 inches or more. The container can be simple or ornate. Choose your favorite type of pot, whether it's made of terra cotta, stone, clay or plastic. As long as it is big enough to accommodate the bulbs, any flowerpot can work.
Choosing Bulbs
Stay with one hue or intersperse tulips with different flower colors, depending on your preference. Maximize the visual impact of blooms by planting tulip varieties that have similar bloom times such as Single Early and Fosteriana, both early bloomers. For a longer blooming season, plant varieties with staggering bloom times. For example, pair early-bloomers such as Double Early with mid-season bloomers such as Triumph and late bloomers such as Parrot and Viridiflora. If you're choosing tulips to force indoors, select shorter varieties such as Tulipa humilis, which tend to force more easily, according to the National Gardening Association. Start the forcing process in October for flowers in late December or start in late fall for flowers in mid-winter.
Planting Tulip Bulbs
Mix a general granular fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula, into potting soil. Plant each bulb two to three times as deep as the bulb's height, placing them close together in a circular pattern without letting the bulbs touch. Cover the bulbs with potting mix and water the pot thoroughly. Place the pot in a protected, unheated spot such as an unheated garage to chill the bulbs while keeping them above freezing. In early spring, water the pots lightly. Move the potted tulips to their intended location once the bulbs begin sprouting above the soil's surface. Maintain even soil moisture during the growing season. If you're forcing the bulbs, plant them right below the soil's surface so you can still see the tips of the bulbs.
Forcing Tulips
To force potted tulips to flower, first chill the unplanted bulbs for six weeks in a paper bag placed in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Then, plant them in the pot and place it in a dark room that's approximately 55 F for one month before moving them to a warmer, sunny spot to bloom. Alternatively, place potted bulbs in a dark room for eight to 16 weeks, maintaining temperatures of 32 to 50 F. Once the bulbs start growing sprouts, move the pots into a room that has bright, indirect light and temperatures of 50 to 65 F for two weeks. Once the shoots reach heights of 2 inches, move the pot to flower in a sunny area with temperatures of approximately 68 F during the day and 60 F at night.
Choosing a Pot
One of the most important factors when choosing a pot is to make sure it has drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged. Size is also crucial. Look for containers at least 15 inches high with a diameter of 18 inches or more. The container can be simple or ornate. Choose your favorite type of pot, whether it's made of terra cotta, stone, clay or plastic. As long as it is big enough to accommodate the bulbs, any flowerpot can work.
Choosing Bulbs
Stay with one hue or intersperse tulips with different flower colors, depending on your preference. Maximize the visual impact of blooms by planting tulip varieties that have similar bloom times such as Single Early and Fosteriana, both early bloomers. For a longer blooming season, plant varieties with staggering bloom times. For example, pair early-bloomers such as Double Early with mid-season bloomers such as Triumph and late bloomers such as Parrot and Viridiflora. If you're choosing tulips to force indoors, select shorter varieties such as Tulipa humilis, which tend to force more easily, according to the National Gardening Association. Start the forcing process in October for flowers in late December or start in late fall for flowers in mid-winter.
Planting Tulip Bulbs
Mix a general granular fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula, into potting soil. Plant each bulb two to three times as deep as the bulb's height, placing them close together in a circular pattern without letting the bulbs touch. Cover the bulbs with potting mix and water the pot thoroughly. Place the pot in a protected, unheated spot such as an unheated garage to chill the bulbs while keeping them above freezing. In early spring, water the pots lightly. Move the potted tulips to their intended location once the bulbs begin sprouting above the soil's surface. Maintain even soil moisture during the growing season. If you're forcing the bulbs, plant them right below the soil's surface so you can still see the tips of the bulbs.
Forcing Tulips
To force potted tulips to flower, first chill the unplanted bulbs for six weeks in a paper bag placed in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Then, plant them in the pot and place it in a dark room that's approximately 55 F for one month before moving them to a warmer, sunny spot to bloom. Alternatively, place potted bulbs in a dark room for eight to 16 weeks, maintaining temperatures of 32 to 50 F. Once the bulbs start growing sprouts, move the pots into a room that has bright, indirect light and temperatures of 50 to 65 F for two weeks. Once the shoots reach heights of 2 inches, move the pot to flower in a sunny area with temperatures of approximately 68 F during the day and 60 F at night.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Borage (Borago) is a freely seeding, easy growing annual plant with vivid blue flowers and leaves with the flavor of cucumbers. It is consider an herb, but is often grown as a flower in vegetable gardens where it attracts pollinating bees and is considered a good companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. It’s even supposed to deter tomato hornworms and improve the flavor of tomatoes growing nearby.
Borage can bloom from late spring through summer. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer period of bloom and provide a longer harvest time.
Borage is actually a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice it because the star-shaped flowers are so vibrant. They’re a true blue, hanging in downward facing clusters. Even the fuzzy white buds are attractive. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible, with a cucumber-like flavor. Use the leaves while they are young, because as the plant matures, the stalks and leaves become covered with a prickly fuzz.
Design Suggestions
Borage is often grown in the vegetable or herb garden because it is such a bee magnet and because it is considered a good growing companion for other plants. However, it is equally beautiful in a cottage style flower garden, where it has room to self-seed. Harvesting or deadheading will keep it in bloom longer.
Growing Tips
Borage grows best if direct seeded. Barely cover the seeds with soil and keep well watered. They are tolerant of any type soil, even poor dry soil. However a sunny location with rich, well draining soil is optimal.
If you choose to start seedlings, transplant before they become pot bound. Plan to start seedlings about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost and don’t transplant outdoors until the soil has warmed. Once seedling are about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall, thin to approximately 12 inches (40 cm) apart.
Maintenance: Plants in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants. Something with a high phosphorous number (the middle number on a fertilizer package) will help keep them in flower. Plants can be pinched or pruned, to encourage branching and to keep them shorter.
Harvesting: Harvest leaves and flowers as needed. Older leaves will get prickly, making harvesting anything on the plant a bit unpleasant. However, the flowers do add a bit of flavor and a great deal of color to salads, soups, dips & spreads, open face sandwiches, beverages and ice cubes. As with all edible flowers, use sparingly until you know how they effect you. Borage is said to have a mild laxative effect.
Borage is open pollinated and it is very easy to collect and save the seed from flowers allowed to remain on the plant and turn brown. Borage self-seeds readily, if allowed to go to seed naturally. Excess plants are fairly easy to remove from the garden.
Borage can bloom from late spring through summer. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer period of bloom and provide a longer harvest time.
Borage is actually a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice it because the star-shaped flowers are so vibrant. They’re a true blue, hanging in downward facing clusters. Even the fuzzy white buds are attractive. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible, with a cucumber-like flavor. Use the leaves while they are young, because as the plant matures, the stalks and leaves become covered with a prickly fuzz.
Design Suggestions
Borage is often grown in the vegetable or herb garden because it is such a bee magnet and because it is considered a good growing companion for other plants. However, it is equally beautiful in a cottage style flower garden, where it has room to self-seed. Harvesting or deadheading will keep it in bloom longer.
Growing Tips
Borage grows best if direct seeded. Barely cover the seeds with soil and keep well watered. They are tolerant of any type soil, even poor dry soil. However a sunny location with rich, well draining soil is optimal.
If you choose to start seedlings, transplant before they become pot bound. Plan to start seedlings about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost and don’t transplant outdoors until the soil has warmed. Once seedling are about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall, thin to approximately 12 inches (40 cm) apart.
Maintenance: Plants in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants. Something with a high phosphorous number (the middle number on a fertilizer package) will help keep them in flower. Plants can be pinched or pruned, to encourage branching and to keep them shorter.
Harvesting: Harvest leaves and flowers as needed. Older leaves will get prickly, making harvesting anything on the plant a bit unpleasant. However, the flowers do add a bit of flavor and a great deal of color to salads, soups, dips & spreads, open face sandwiches, beverages and ice cubes. As with all edible flowers, use sparingly until you know how they effect you. Borage is said to have a mild laxative effect.
Borage is open pollinated and it is very easy to collect and save the seed from flowers allowed to remain on the plant and turn brown. Borage self-seeds readily, if allowed to go to seed naturally. Excess plants are fairly easy to remove from the garden.
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