文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月11日
Growing grapes is a wonderful hobby for home gardeners and wine lovers. When growing grapes, gardeners take advantage of some strategic companion planting guidelines to ensure that their grapevines grow vigorously and thrive.
Grape Growing
Grapes require full sun, warm-to-moderate temperatures, plenty of water and quick-draining soil.
Companion Planting
In any companion planting situation, choose plants that have similar requirements. This makes every plant's chances of success better.
Grape Companions
Grapes do very well when planted with hyssop, basil, beans, geraniums, oregano, clover, peas and blackberries. Clover increases the fertility of the soil for grapes.
Pest-Repelling Plants
Some plants make good companions to grapes just because of their pest-repelling qualities. Because grapes naturally draw pests, planting garlic, chives, rosemary, tansy and mint around the borders of the vineyard is a good idea.
Considerations
Cold temperatures and frost will damage grapevines, regardless of companion planting.
Warning
Never plant grapes with cabbage or radishes.
Grape Growing
Grapes require full sun, warm-to-moderate temperatures, plenty of water and quick-draining soil.
Companion Planting
In any companion planting situation, choose plants that have similar requirements. This makes every plant's chances of success better.
Grape Companions
Grapes do very well when planted with hyssop, basil, beans, geraniums, oregano, clover, peas and blackberries. Clover increases the fertility of the soil for grapes.
Pest-Repelling Plants
Some plants make good companions to grapes just because of their pest-repelling qualities. Because grapes naturally draw pests, planting garlic, chives, rosemary, tansy and mint around the borders of the vineyard is a good idea.
Considerations
Cold temperatures and frost will damage grapevines, regardless of companion planting.
Warning
Never plant grapes with cabbage or radishes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月11日
If you have a small yard or live in an apartment, growing grapevines in pots is the perfect solution. According to the Fruit Expert, the best indoor varieties are Black Hamburgh and Thompson’s Seedless. The grapes that the vine produces can be eaten or left as food for birds. Growing grapevines in a container is a basic task, but the pot can become heavy to lift and move as it grows. Place the pot on a board with wheels. This will allow you to move the pot easily wherever and whenever you want.
Step 1
Find a pot that has at least an 18-inch diameter and is at least 1 foot deep. Make sure there are drainage holes at the bottom of the container.
Step 2
Pour 1 inch of gravel in the bottom of the pot.
Step 3
Mix equal amounts of potting soil and perlite. Fill the pot halfway with the amended potting soil.
Step 4
Remove the grapevine from its container. Gently tease them free if the roots are growing around the rootball.
Step 5
Place the grape’s rootball in the center of the container.
Step 6
Fill in with the amended soil around the rootball. Tamp the soil down to remove air bubbles. Leave at least 1 inch between the surface of the soil and the rim of the pot.
Step 7
Place a stake into the pot close to the rootball. Push it in so it rests on the bottom of the pot. Position the stake so the grapevine has something to grow against and provide support. Tie the branches to the stake with twist ties, string or strips of cloth as the vine grows.
Step 8
Water the grapevine to keep the soil moist, watering every two or three days. Cut back on watering during the dormant season. Stick your finger 1 inch into the soil. Water the vine when the soil feels dry.
Step 9
Feed the grapes a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 early in the spring. Read and follow label directions.
Step 1
Find a pot that has at least an 18-inch diameter and is at least 1 foot deep. Make sure there are drainage holes at the bottom of the container.
Step 2
Pour 1 inch of gravel in the bottom of the pot.
Step 3
Mix equal amounts of potting soil and perlite. Fill the pot halfway with the amended potting soil.
Step 4
Remove the grapevine from its container. Gently tease them free if the roots are growing around the rootball.
Step 5
Place the grape’s rootball in the center of the container.
Step 6
Fill in with the amended soil around the rootball. Tamp the soil down to remove air bubbles. Leave at least 1 inch between the surface of the soil and the rim of the pot.
Step 7
Place a stake into the pot close to the rootball. Push it in so it rests on the bottom of the pot. Position the stake so the grapevine has something to grow against and provide support. Tie the branches to the stake with twist ties, string or strips of cloth as the vine grows.
Step 8
Water the grapevine to keep the soil moist, watering every two or three days. Cut back on watering during the dormant season. Stick your finger 1 inch into the soil. Water the vine when the soil feels dry.
Step 9
Feed the grapes a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 early in the spring. Read and follow label directions.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Strawberries are a favorite summer fruit for many people. Growing strawberries in a home garden takes some effort, but after two or three years, well-maintained strawberry plants can produce a large harvest. Plenty of sun is one requirement for healthy strawberry plants.
Planting
hands planting strawberry
credit: luna4/iStock/Getty Images
A woman planting strawberries on a cloudy day
Plant strawberries on a cool day with plenty of cloud cover. Excessive sun exposure or heat will damage new plants and stunt their growth. Strawberries are best planted in early spring. Choose a bed with full-sun exposure.
Growing Season
Strawberry bush in the garden
credit: voltan1/iStock/Getty Images
Strawberries growing in a garden
During the growing season, strawberries need full sun. At least six hours of full sun a day are required for healthy growth. Better fruit and stronger plants result from 10 hours of sun daily.
Container Planting
strawberries plants
credit: sanddebeautheil/iStock/Getty Images
Moving a strawberry plant from a container into a wooden box
Strawberries also grow well in containers. If you grow strawberries in containers, set your plants outdoors for at least six hours of full sun. If weather or climate prevents this, use a grow lamp to give your strawberries six to 10 hours of light a day.
Planting
hands planting strawberry
credit: luna4/iStock/Getty Images
A woman planting strawberries on a cloudy day
Plant strawberries on a cool day with plenty of cloud cover. Excessive sun exposure or heat will damage new plants and stunt their growth. Strawberries are best planted in early spring. Choose a bed with full-sun exposure.
Growing Season
Strawberry bush in the garden
credit: voltan1/iStock/Getty Images
Strawberries growing in a garden
During the growing season, strawberries need full sun. At least six hours of full sun a day are required for healthy growth. Better fruit and stronger plants result from 10 hours of sun daily.
Container Planting
strawberries plants
credit: sanddebeautheil/iStock/Getty Images
Moving a strawberry plant from a container into a wooden box
Strawberries also grow well in containers. If you grow strawberries in containers, set your plants outdoors for at least six hours of full sun. If weather or climate prevents this, use a grow lamp to give your strawberries six to 10 hours of light a day.
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成长记
Ueca
2017年11月09日
These are growing like crazy, but it's getting too cold to put them outside every day.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月08日
Central Florida has a warm, balmy climate with mild winters and sandy soils. While these may not seem ideal for growing blueberries (Vaccinium spp.), some varieties grow successfully in the area. Small adjustments in soil and care can lead to large blueberry yields in Florida's central region.
Low-Chill Considerations
Central Florida only gets between 100 and 300 "chill hours" each winter -- the number of hours below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Blueberries need a certain number of chill hours to successfully bloom in spring. Two species of blueberries have low-chill cultivars that are adapted to mild winters: rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) and southern highbush (Vaccinium darrowii). Most low-chill cultivars have been tested to grow near Ocala in central Florida or further north, but their southern limits have not been well tested.
Which Cultivars Work
"Emerald" highbush blueberry (Vaccinium darrowii "Emerald"), notes University of Florida, is the cultivar grown most often in the state. This early-ripening, high-yield bush produces a high quality berry from mid-April through mid-May and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. Rabbiteye cultivars generally need less maintenance, are more drought-tolerant and are more resistant to root root than highbush varieties. They must be cross-pollinated, which means you need at least two or three plants to produce fruit. "Brightwell" (Vaccinium virgatum "Brightwell") is a medium-sized blueberry that blooms between May and June. An excellent partner bush that flowers around the same time is "Austin" (Vaccinium virgatum "Austin") which has medium to large berries. Both grow in USDA zones 6 through 9.
Proper Location
Florida's soil is generally low in organic material and tends to be sandy, which means you need to amend the soil to keep blueberries happy. Incorporate an organic material, like peat moss or compost, into the top 8 inches of soil. An average 10- by 10-foot garden needs 8 cubic feet of compost spread over it and tilled in. Blueberries do best with a soil pH between 4.0 and 5.5. Pine mulch can help lower pH after planting. Place a 4-inch layer of pine needles or bark chip mulch in a 3- to 4-foot circle around each plant, keeping the mulch a few inches away from the blueberry stems.
Growing the Berries
Blueberry bushes can be quite large when mature. While highbush berry bushes tend to be smaller, a rabbiteye can grow up to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Use a 7- by 7-foot area for planting rabbiteyes and a 4- by 4-foot area for highbush blueberries. If you wish to grow them as a clustered hedgerow, you may take this down to 3 feet for highbush and 5 feet for rabbiteye. Plant blueberries in full sun in soil that drains well through 18 inches deep. If the area has drainage problems, build a raised bed for the blueberries.
Pruning for Health
Pruning keeps your blueberry bushes healthy and productive, as berries grow best on young canes. When the plants are 4 years old or more, remove about one-fourth of the oldest canes every summer after harvest. This will also help to reduce the size of the canopy, keeping the berries easy to pick. To prevent the spread of diseases, soak your pruning shears in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. Rinse them with clean water and air dry them before and after each use.
Fertilizer Needs
Too much fertilizer can kill blueberries, so do several light applications each year. After planting, give plants 1 ounce per plant of 12-4-8 fertilizer with 2 percent magnesium, sometimes called a "blueberry specialty." Spread it in a 2-foot circle around the plant's center. In the second year, use 2 ounces per plant and spread into a 3-foot circle. From the third year onward, use 3 ounces of fertilizer in a 4-foot circle. Water the fertilizer in well after applying it. Repeat the process in April, June, August and October each year.
Low-Chill Considerations
Central Florida only gets between 100 and 300 "chill hours" each winter -- the number of hours below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Blueberries need a certain number of chill hours to successfully bloom in spring. Two species of blueberries have low-chill cultivars that are adapted to mild winters: rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) and southern highbush (Vaccinium darrowii). Most low-chill cultivars have been tested to grow near Ocala in central Florida or further north, but their southern limits have not been well tested.
Which Cultivars Work
"Emerald" highbush blueberry (Vaccinium darrowii "Emerald"), notes University of Florida, is the cultivar grown most often in the state. This early-ripening, high-yield bush produces a high quality berry from mid-April through mid-May and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. Rabbiteye cultivars generally need less maintenance, are more drought-tolerant and are more resistant to root root than highbush varieties. They must be cross-pollinated, which means you need at least two or three plants to produce fruit. "Brightwell" (Vaccinium virgatum "Brightwell") is a medium-sized blueberry that blooms between May and June. An excellent partner bush that flowers around the same time is "Austin" (Vaccinium virgatum "Austin") which has medium to large berries. Both grow in USDA zones 6 through 9.
Proper Location
Florida's soil is generally low in organic material and tends to be sandy, which means you need to amend the soil to keep blueberries happy. Incorporate an organic material, like peat moss or compost, into the top 8 inches of soil. An average 10- by 10-foot garden needs 8 cubic feet of compost spread over it and tilled in. Blueberries do best with a soil pH between 4.0 and 5.5. Pine mulch can help lower pH after planting. Place a 4-inch layer of pine needles or bark chip mulch in a 3- to 4-foot circle around each plant, keeping the mulch a few inches away from the blueberry stems.
Growing the Berries
Blueberry bushes can be quite large when mature. While highbush berry bushes tend to be smaller, a rabbiteye can grow up to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Use a 7- by 7-foot area for planting rabbiteyes and a 4- by 4-foot area for highbush blueberries. If you wish to grow them as a clustered hedgerow, you may take this down to 3 feet for highbush and 5 feet for rabbiteye. Plant blueberries in full sun in soil that drains well through 18 inches deep. If the area has drainage problems, build a raised bed for the blueberries.
Pruning for Health
Pruning keeps your blueberry bushes healthy and productive, as berries grow best on young canes. When the plants are 4 years old or more, remove about one-fourth of the oldest canes every summer after harvest. This will also help to reduce the size of the canopy, keeping the berries easy to pick. To prevent the spread of diseases, soak your pruning shears in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. Rinse them with clean water and air dry them before and after each use.
Fertilizer Needs
Too much fertilizer can kill blueberries, so do several light applications each year. After planting, give plants 1 ounce per plant of 12-4-8 fertilizer with 2 percent magnesium, sometimes called a "blueberry specialty." Spread it in a 2-foot circle around the plant's center. In the second year, use 2 ounces per plant and spread into a 3-foot circle. From the third year onward, use 3 ounces of fertilizer in a 4-foot circle. Water the fertilizer in well after applying it. Repeat the process in April, June, August and October each year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月08日
The hot climate and alkaline soils of many parts of Texas are far from ideal for blueberry (Vaccinium spp.) growing. Knowing which kinds of blueberry bushes to plant and how to compensate for unfavorable soil conditions, however, can allow you to cultivate a berry harvest even in the Lonestar State.
Texas Soils and Blueberries
Blueberries only thrive in soils with high levels of acidity, and they will perform poorly unless the soil's pH level is between 4 and 5.5. Soil with pH in that range is rare in Texas, except for some parts of east Texas, so blueberries are unlikely to do well in most native Texas soil.
Some types of blueberries will perform adequately when soil is acidified with amendments. To reduce the pH of the soil by one point, add 3/4 pound of elemental sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil or 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of loam or clay soil about six months before planting. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei), one of the types that grows best in Texas, tend not to respond well to artificial acidification, however.
Home gardeners with neutral or alkaline native soils can successfully grow blueberries in containers filled with a commercially prepared soilless peat mixture or a mixture of peat moss and pine bark.
Varieties for Texas
Southern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), which are, in general, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10, and rabbiteye blueberries, which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10, are the types best suited to Texas, particularly in the warm climates of south and east Texas, the parts of the state that fall into USDA zones 8 to 10a.
Blueberries require a particular number of "chill hours," hours during which the temperature falls below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, and rabbiteye blueberries require fewer chill hours than other types, making them better able to produce in south and east Texas, including the Austin, Houston and Dallas areas. Rabbiteye varieties that do especially well in the state include "Powderblue," "Tifblue," "Climax" and "Premier."
Some southern highbush varieties fare well in southeast Texas, including the Houston area. "Emerald" and "Jewel," which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and require relatively few chill hours, are good choices for this part of the state. North of Abilene, where the climate falls into USDA zones 6b and 7, choose southern highbush varieties such as "Misty" and "Sunshine Blue," which are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10.
Site Considerations and Planting
Blueberries will tolerate some shade, but they prefer full sun and will produce best when they get plenty of light. Bushes have shallow root systems and are very sensitive to root damage caused by standing water, so they must be planted in soil that drains well.
If you're planting in the ground, plant late in the season, from fall until the end of winter. Space the bushes 4 to 6 feet apart, and if you plant more than one row of bushes, space the rows 12 to 15 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries need supplemental nitrogen, but nitrogen in the form of nitrate will damage the plants; instead, use a fertilizer that contains ammonium sulfate. Apply 1/2 to 1 ounce of a 21-0-0 fertilizer to each shrub in the first summer after planting, and increase the application to a full ounce in the second year; increase the application by an ounce a season until the amount reaches 8 ounces.
Bushes require a large amount of water, especially during the heat of summer, in periods of drought and during the period when berries are ripening. Throughout the year, 1-year-old plants should get 1/2 gallon of water per day, and 2-year-old plants should get a full gallon; add a gallon per year after that, to a maximum of 5 gallons per day. During the summer, monitor the soil to be sure that dirt around the bushes' shallow roots doesn't dry out, and cover the plants' root zones with a thick layer of mulch to help retain moisture, ensuring mulch doesn't touch the base of each plant.
Texas Soils and Blueberries
Blueberries only thrive in soils with high levels of acidity, and they will perform poorly unless the soil's pH level is between 4 and 5.5. Soil with pH in that range is rare in Texas, except for some parts of east Texas, so blueberries are unlikely to do well in most native Texas soil.
Some types of blueberries will perform adequately when soil is acidified with amendments. To reduce the pH of the soil by one point, add 3/4 pound of elemental sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil or 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of loam or clay soil about six months before planting. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei), one of the types that grows best in Texas, tend not to respond well to artificial acidification, however.
Home gardeners with neutral or alkaline native soils can successfully grow blueberries in containers filled with a commercially prepared soilless peat mixture or a mixture of peat moss and pine bark.
Varieties for Texas
Southern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), which are, in general, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10, and rabbiteye blueberries, which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10, are the types best suited to Texas, particularly in the warm climates of south and east Texas, the parts of the state that fall into USDA zones 8 to 10a.
Blueberries require a particular number of "chill hours," hours during which the temperature falls below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, and rabbiteye blueberries require fewer chill hours than other types, making them better able to produce in south and east Texas, including the Austin, Houston and Dallas areas. Rabbiteye varieties that do especially well in the state include "Powderblue," "Tifblue," "Climax" and "Premier."
Some southern highbush varieties fare well in southeast Texas, including the Houston area. "Emerald" and "Jewel," which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and require relatively few chill hours, are good choices for this part of the state. North of Abilene, where the climate falls into USDA zones 6b and 7, choose southern highbush varieties such as "Misty" and "Sunshine Blue," which are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10.
Site Considerations and Planting
Blueberries will tolerate some shade, but they prefer full sun and will produce best when they get plenty of light. Bushes have shallow root systems and are very sensitive to root damage caused by standing water, so they must be planted in soil that drains well.
If you're planting in the ground, plant late in the season, from fall until the end of winter. Space the bushes 4 to 6 feet apart, and if you plant more than one row of bushes, space the rows 12 to 15 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries need supplemental nitrogen, but nitrogen in the form of nitrate will damage the plants; instead, use a fertilizer that contains ammonium sulfate. Apply 1/2 to 1 ounce of a 21-0-0 fertilizer to each shrub in the first summer after planting, and increase the application to a full ounce in the second year; increase the application by an ounce a season until the amount reaches 8 ounces.
Bushes require a large amount of water, especially during the heat of summer, in periods of drought and during the period when berries are ripening. Throughout the year, 1-year-old plants should get 1/2 gallon of water per day, and 2-year-old plants should get a full gallon; add a gallon per year after that, to a maximum of 5 gallons per day. During the summer, monitor the soil to be sure that dirt around the bushes' shallow roots doesn't dry out, and cover the plants' root zones with a thick layer of mulch to help retain moisture, ensuring mulch doesn't touch the base of each plant.
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成长记
astronbot
2017年11月07日
poor snail town has been thru a lot.. I think I overwatered him. but he's growing thru his sunburn and his new leaves look cute and plump. I'll drought him for a while.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are frost-tender plants, and they're usually grown as an annual crop. Sowing tomato seeds indoors before frosts are over in spring prolongs the growing season, but the warm temperatures and low light levels indoors cause tall, thin, weak tomato seedlings. Starting tomatoes outdoors in shady areas also causes seedlings with those conditions. These leggy seedlings grow into thin-stemmed plants that break under the weight of a heavy crop, but you can fix leggy tomato seedlings when you transplant them into your garden.
Burying Seedling Stems
Burying tomato seedling stems when transplanting the seedlings into the garden helps cure legginess. Tomato stems can develop roots. Young roots appear as small, white bumps at the stem bases, but roots also can develop higher on the stems when they're buried in moist soil. Burying tomato stems when transplanting leggy seedlings leads to large, healthy root systems and does no harm.
Tomato seedlings must be transplanted into an area where they receive at least eight hours of direct sunlight every day, or else they will grow leggy. Wait until after your location's final average annual frost date before transplanting tomatoes outdoors.
Digging Trenches
Burying leggy tomato seedlings in long, shallow trenches provides the best results. Tomato roots grow best in warm, moist soil that contains plenty of oxygen. Burying the seedlings vertically places their root balls deep in cold soil with low levels of oxygen, but placing the seedlings horizontally in shallow trenches keeps the roots near the warm, airy soil at the ground's surface.
Dig a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and as long as a tomato seedling's root ball and stem are to the top two or three sets of leaves. Pinch off the leaves below the top two or three sets, and place the tomato seedling in the trench. Angle the stem area that will remain above ground away from the soil surface. Cover the rest of the stem with soil that you removed while making the trench.
Caring for Transplanted Seedlings
Leggy tomato seedlings need moist soil to develop new roots and grow strongly. Water transplanted seedlings immediately so that their soil is moist to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, and water them again each time the soil surface is dry. Don't water the seedlings so much that the ground becomes soggy.
The above-ground portions of transplanted seedlings' stems straighten and grow vertically over time. You can encourage them to grow straight by pushing a stake, or cane, into the soil next to each plant and loosely tying the stems to the canes with twine.
Avoiding Leggy Seedlings
Sowing tomato seeds at the right time, in good light and at cool temperatures prevents leggy seedlings. Short, stocky, thick-stemmed tomato seedlings become the best mature plants.
Sow tomato seeds five to six weeks before the final average annual frost date, and place them in a cool, bright indoor area, such as a south-facing window. Provide them with temperatures warmer than 32 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 60 F during the day but not warmer than 65 F. When the seedlings appear above the soil, turn their pots or seedling trays every day to help prevent the seedlings from leaning toward light. Pots and seedling trays for tomato plants must have bottom drainage holes.
Burying Seedling Stems
Burying tomato seedling stems when transplanting the seedlings into the garden helps cure legginess. Tomato stems can develop roots. Young roots appear as small, white bumps at the stem bases, but roots also can develop higher on the stems when they're buried in moist soil. Burying tomato stems when transplanting leggy seedlings leads to large, healthy root systems and does no harm.
Tomato seedlings must be transplanted into an area where they receive at least eight hours of direct sunlight every day, or else they will grow leggy. Wait until after your location's final average annual frost date before transplanting tomatoes outdoors.
Digging Trenches
Burying leggy tomato seedlings in long, shallow trenches provides the best results. Tomato roots grow best in warm, moist soil that contains plenty of oxygen. Burying the seedlings vertically places their root balls deep in cold soil with low levels of oxygen, but placing the seedlings horizontally in shallow trenches keeps the roots near the warm, airy soil at the ground's surface.
Dig a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and as long as a tomato seedling's root ball and stem are to the top two or three sets of leaves. Pinch off the leaves below the top two or three sets, and place the tomato seedling in the trench. Angle the stem area that will remain above ground away from the soil surface. Cover the rest of the stem with soil that you removed while making the trench.
Caring for Transplanted Seedlings
Leggy tomato seedlings need moist soil to develop new roots and grow strongly. Water transplanted seedlings immediately so that their soil is moist to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, and water them again each time the soil surface is dry. Don't water the seedlings so much that the ground becomes soggy.
The above-ground portions of transplanted seedlings' stems straighten and grow vertically over time. You can encourage them to grow straight by pushing a stake, or cane, into the soil next to each plant and loosely tying the stems to the canes with twine.
Avoiding Leggy Seedlings
Sowing tomato seeds at the right time, in good light and at cool temperatures prevents leggy seedlings. Short, stocky, thick-stemmed tomato seedlings become the best mature plants.
Sow tomato seeds five to six weeks before the final average annual frost date, and place them in a cool, bright indoor area, such as a south-facing window. Provide them with temperatures warmer than 32 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 60 F during the day but not warmer than 65 F. When the seedlings appear above the soil, turn their pots or seedling trays every day to help prevent the seedlings from leaning toward light. Pots and seedling trays for tomato plants must have bottom drainage holes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月05日
Phoenix, the capital of Arizona, is situated in the Sonoran Desert. Growing blueberries in Phoenix can be tricky because of its hot, dry climate. However, several steps can help you to grow fully ripened fruits that carry a sweet taste and aroma not easily found in a grocery store. Even in a desert environment such as Phoenix, blueberry plants can grow to 3 feet to 4 feet tall and 20 inches wide or larger.
Step 1
Purchase a container in which to grow your blueberries, and pour in a potting soil mix that includes a blend of peat moss and compost so that the container is 3/4 full. Collect a sample of your soil and take it to a local laboratory in Phoenix to have it tested. The test will let you know what other amendments, if any, you must add to your soil.
Step 2
The ideal soil pH for blueberries generally is between 4.5 and 5.5. You will have to use a container in Phoenix because acidic soil is required for plants to grow and produce well. The soil in Phoenix is too alkaline, as it is composed mainly of clay and has large deposits of calcium carbonate.
Step 3
Buy a blueberry plant variety that has a low chill requirement, such as Southmoon, Sharpblue or Sunshine Blue, which will work well in Phoenix's desert climate. A low chill requirement is the amount of time a plant must be exposed to temperatures between 32 degrees Fahrenheit and 45 degrees Fahrenheit before it will come out of dormancy.
Step 4
Place your blueberry starter plant into the container, ensuring the container is large enough to handle the plant's existing root system. Situate the plant at the same level it was while in the initial pot, and firm the potting mix around the plant. Put the container in an area that receives exposure to full sun. The plant needs at least six hours of sun in order to thrive and will be able to handle full desert sun as long as it is well watered.
Step 5
Water your Phoenix blueberry plant whenever it feels dry, testing it daily with your finger. Apply a water-soluble fertilizer containing a commercial acidifying additive or vinegar to the plant each week from mid-February to Labor Day. This will compensate for the alkaline Arizona water you give your plant, which will cause the soil to lose its acidity over time.
Step 6
Pour 1/4 cup of coffee grounds over the soil every other week. This will further add acidity to the plant's soil, which will improve its production.
Step 7
Remove dead branches and twiggy growth from your blueberry plant. Make sure the plant remains in a round shape.
Step 1
Purchase a container in which to grow your blueberries, and pour in a potting soil mix that includes a blend of peat moss and compost so that the container is 3/4 full. Collect a sample of your soil and take it to a local laboratory in Phoenix to have it tested. The test will let you know what other amendments, if any, you must add to your soil.
Step 2
The ideal soil pH for blueberries generally is between 4.5 and 5.5. You will have to use a container in Phoenix because acidic soil is required for plants to grow and produce well. The soil in Phoenix is too alkaline, as it is composed mainly of clay and has large deposits of calcium carbonate.
Step 3
Buy a blueberry plant variety that has a low chill requirement, such as Southmoon, Sharpblue or Sunshine Blue, which will work well in Phoenix's desert climate. A low chill requirement is the amount of time a plant must be exposed to temperatures between 32 degrees Fahrenheit and 45 degrees Fahrenheit before it will come out of dormancy.
Step 4
Place your blueberry starter plant into the container, ensuring the container is large enough to handle the plant's existing root system. Situate the plant at the same level it was while in the initial pot, and firm the potting mix around the plant. Put the container in an area that receives exposure to full sun. The plant needs at least six hours of sun in order to thrive and will be able to handle full desert sun as long as it is well watered.
Step 5
Water your Phoenix blueberry plant whenever it feels dry, testing it daily with your finger. Apply a water-soluble fertilizer containing a commercial acidifying additive or vinegar to the plant each week from mid-February to Labor Day. This will compensate for the alkaline Arizona water you give your plant, which will cause the soil to lose its acidity over time.
Step 6
Pour 1/4 cup of coffee grounds over the soil every other week. This will further add acidity to the plant's soil, which will improve its production.
Step 7
Remove dead branches and twiggy growth from your blueberry plant. Make sure the plant remains in a round shape.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月05日
Unlike many fruit-bearing trees growing in the United States, blueberries offer the home gardener a chance to cultivate these delectable berries in small backyards as long as the proper conditions exist.
Blueberries belong to the heath plant family that includes cranberries, bilberries, huckleberries, azaleas and rhododendrons.
Most members of this family live only in North America and all these plants thrive in acidic soils.
Creating the ideal soil conditions will maximize the blueberry harvest and help the plants flourish.
Coffee grounds can help create these ideal conditions.
Blueberries belong to the heath plant family that includes cranberries, bilberries, huckleberries, azaleas and rhododendrons.
Most members of this family live only in North America and all these plants thrive in acidic soils.
Creating the ideal soil conditions will maximize the blueberry harvest and help the plants flourish.
Coffee grounds can help create these ideal conditions.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月04日
Blueberries are popular fruit for home growing, especially in areas with moist or acidic soil. These bushes produce fruit that works well for fresh, cooked or frozen use. Like other plants, blueberry bushes go through a specific set of stages over the course of their lives. This life cycle can be influenced, but not changed, by environmental factors.
Seed
Each blueberry fruit contains many extremely tiny seeds. In nature, unharvested fruit falls to the ground. As it decays, the seeds come into contact with the soil, sprouting the next spring when the weather warms. Birds and mammals also eat blueberry fruit, dispersing seeds. Most cultivated blueberries are not actually grown from seed. Instead, they're grown from cuttings, and are really just clones of the parent plant. Blueberry seeds will produce genetically different offspring.
Growth
Blueberry seeds begin to germinate when temperatures reach 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to the University of Maine Extension website, they take about a month to germinate and emerge from the soil. They grow quickly, becoming small bushes within a few months. As cold weather approaches, blueberry bushes become dormant for the winter. They shut down their life processes during the cold months, and can survive temperatures as low as minus-10 degrees Fahrenheit. When weather warms again, the roots revive and begin to provide sugar for later growth. Blueberry bushes can live for up to 30 to 50 years, according to the University of Minnesota Extension website. They may take several years to reach maturity and produce fruit.
Flower
Adult blueberry plants put out clusters of six to 12 small white flowers in late spring. These flowers open starting at the base of the bud. Blueberries cannot pollinate themselves, and require bees to fertilize their flowers. Several species, including bumble bees, honeybees, carpenter bees and southeastern blueberry bees, visit these flowers and transfer pollen from the anthers to the stigma, allowing the adult bush to fruit and reproduce.
Fruit
Fertilized blueberry flowers produce the familiar purplish-blue berry within a few weeks of blooming. According to the Michigan State University Extension website, the first flowers pollinated usually fruit sooner and produce larger blueberries. This occurs because fruit at the bottom of the cluster receives sugars and other nutrients from the roots before fruit at the top of the cluster.
Seed
Each blueberry fruit contains many extremely tiny seeds. In nature, unharvested fruit falls to the ground. As it decays, the seeds come into contact with the soil, sprouting the next spring when the weather warms. Birds and mammals also eat blueberry fruit, dispersing seeds. Most cultivated blueberries are not actually grown from seed. Instead, they're grown from cuttings, and are really just clones of the parent plant. Blueberry seeds will produce genetically different offspring.
Growth
Blueberry seeds begin to germinate when temperatures reach 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to the University of Maine Extension website, they take about a month to germinate and emerge from the soil. They grow quickly, becoming small bushes within a few months. As cold weather approaches, blueberry bushes become dormant for the winter. They shut down their life processes during the cold months, and can survive temperatures as low as minus-10 degrees Fahrenheit. When weather warms again, the roots revive and begin to provide sugar for later growth. Blueberry bushes can live for up to 30 to 50 years, according to the University of Minnesota Extension website. They may take several years to reach maturity and produce fruit.
Flower
Adult blueberry plants put out clusters of six to 12 small white flowers in late spring. These flowers open starting at the base of the bud. Blueberries cannot pollinate themselves, and require bees to fertilize their flowers. Several species, including bumble bees, honeybees, carpenter bees and southeastern blueberry bees, visit these flowers and transfer pollen from the anthers to the stigma, allowing the adult bush to fruit and reproduce.
Fruit
Fertilized blueberry flowers produce the familiar purplish-blue berry within a few weeks of blooming. According to the Michigan State University Extension website, the first flowers pollinated usually fruit sooner and produce larger blueberries. This occurs because fruit at the bottom of the cluster receives sugars and other nutrients from the roots before fruit at the top of the cluster.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月03日
When it comes to growing your own garlic (Allium sativum), proper timing means the difference between a harvest of healthy, densely flavored bulbs and anemic, tasteless ones. Although garlic is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, it produces the most flavorful bulbs when grown in cool soil. In a Mediterranean climate, planting between late October and early November gives the cloves adequate time to form bulbs. If fall frosts are possible in your area, wait until after the first one to plant. The earlier you get cloves the ground, the larger your harvested bulbs will be.
Sun and Soil
Even in winter, garlic needs at least six hours of daily sun. It grows best in loose, organically rich well-drained loam. If necessary, improve the planting bed's lack of drainage or fertility with plant-based compost or well-aged manure before planting. Loosen its top 6 to 8 inches with a spade or tiller and work in 2 to 3 inches of compost or 1 inch of manure. The Cornell University Department of Horticulture estimates that 30 pounds of compost covers 10 square feet of soil to a 1-inch depth. Space the rows of garlic 1 foot apart, with 3 to 5 inches between the individual cloves.
Mulch and Water
Mulching newly planted garlic with a 2-inch layer of straw lures soil-aerating earthworms to the garden bed and discourages weeds. Don't water until the garlic's new, green shoots appear. After that, a weekly total of 1 inch of rain or supplemental water is enough until the foliage begins yellowing in early summer. That equates to 6 gallons of water per 10 square feet of soil. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist. After the leaves yellow and until you harvest the bulbs, let the soil dry out between watering sessions.
Fertilizer Application
When garlic's shoots are 6 to 8 inches high, side dress the bed with granulated, high-nitrogen 21-0-0 fertilizer. Rake the mulch aside and dig 1- to 2-inch-deep furrows between the rows with the edge of a hoe. Keep them 6 inches from the plant. Sprinkle 2 1/2 tablespoons, or the label's specified amount, of fertilizer evenly over each 10 square feet of furrow and cover it with soil. Water the furrows immediately and reapply the mulch.
Potential Problems
Pests rarely affect garlic, and planting certified disease-free cloves from a reputable nursery dramatically reduces the likelihood of disease. Weeds may become troublesome because garlic foliage doesn't provide enough shade to keep them from germinating. Pulling or digging the weeds up as soon as they sprout stops them from stealing the garlic's moisture and nutrients without exposing it to chemical herbicides. Replacing the straw mulch as it decomposes also helps.
About Those Curling Stalks
In late spring, hardneck garlic varieties (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) send up thick flower stalks that eventually curl around themselves. Cut them for use in salads because leaving them on the plants channels energy away from bulb development.
Sun and Soil
Even in winter, garlic needs at least six hours of daily sun. It grows best in loose, organically rich well-drained loam. If necessary, improve the planting bed's lack of drainage or fertility with plant-based compost or well-aged manure before planting. Loosen its top 6 to 8 inches with a spade or tiller and work in 2 to 3 inches of compost or 1 inch of manure. The Cornell University Department of Horticulture estimates that 30 pounds of compost covers 10 square feet of soil to a 1-inch depth. Space the rows of garlic 1 foot apart, with 3 to 5 inches between the individual cloves.
Mulch and Water
Mulching newly planted garlic with a 2-inch layer of straw lures soil-aerating earthworms to the garden bed and discourages weeds. Don't water until the garlic's new, green shoots appear. After that, a weekly total of 1 inch of rain or supplemental water is enough until the foliage begins yellowing in early summer. That equates to 6 gallons of water per 10 square feet of soil. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist. After the leaves yellow and until you harvest the bulbs, let the soil dry out between watering sessions.
Fertilizer Application
When garlic's shoots are 6 to 8 inches high, side dress the bed with granulated, high-nitrogen 21-0-0 fertilizer. Rake the mulch aside and dig 1- to 2-inch-deep furrows between the rows with the edge of a hoe. Keep them 6 inches from the plant. Sprinkle 2 1/2 tablespoons, or the label's specified amount, of fertilizer evenly over each 10 square feet of furrow and cover it with soil. Water the furrows immediately and reapply the mulch.
Potential Problems
Pests rarely affect garlic, and planting certified disease-free cloves from a reputable nursery dramatically reduces the likelihood of disease. Weeds may become troublesome because garlic foliage doesn't provide enough shade to keep them from germinating. Pulling or digging the weeds up as soon as they sprout stops them from stealing the garlic's moisture and nutrients without exposing it to chemical herbicides. Replacing the straw mulch as it decomposes also helps.
About Those Curling Stalks
In late spring, hardneck garlic varieties (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) send up thick flower stalks that eventually curl around themselves. Cut them for use in salads because leaving them on the plants channels energy away from bulb development.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月03日
Although garlic (Allium sativum) is winter-hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 to 8, it's usually grown by home gardeners as an annual, its mature bulbs harvested after a single growing season. In Ohio, garlic should be planted in the fall or early spring so that it has plenty of time to develop before the end of summer.
Choosing a Variety
Garlic can be of either the soft-neck or hard-neck type. Soft neck garlic varieties often have larger bulbs and will store longer than hard-neck types, but hard-neck varieties tend to be more cold-hardy and are better suited to the climate in Ohio. Varieties that do well in the state include "Music," "German White" and "German Red."
Timing of Planting
Garlic plants put their energy into leaf development when the weather is cool, and once the days start to get warmer, leaf growth stops and bulb growth takes over. Consequently, the plants need plenty of time early in the growing season to develop enough foliage to fuel bulb development later.
Most of Ohio falls into USDA zone 6a; exceptions include areas along the Lake Erie shore and the southern part of the state, which are classified as USDA zone 6b. Other higher-elevation areas fall into USDA zone 5b. In these zones, planting cloves in the fall, starting in the third week of October, will give the plants a jump on the season and allow the leaves to start growing through the winter. Alternatively, you can plant cloves in the early spring, but planting later than March or early April in Ohio will not give the plants enough time to develop fully.
Site Selection
Garlic needs a location that gets full sun through much of the day. It also needs well-drained soil with a light enough texture to allow for good bulb development. A loose, crumbly loam will satisfy both of the those requirements. Heavy clay soils, however, may retain too much moisture and cause bulbs to rot, and dense soils may result in small or ill-formed bulbs. Raised beds will also help soil to drain better and prevent bulb rot.
Soil Preparation
Garlic plants are heavy feeders, and they benefit from substantial amendment of the soil when they're planted. Add organic compost to the planting bed both to increase the soil's organic content and to improve the soil's texture. Till 3 to 6 inches of organic compost into the top 12 inches of soil. In addition, add about 3 pounds of a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed and work into the area prior to planting.
Clove Selection and Planting
It's best to buy seed garlic from a seed supplier or local grower. Supermarket garlic might grow in your garden, but when you know precisely what variety you're getting from a supplier, you're more likely to find a variety that will do well in your location.
Separate bulbs into individual cloves just prior to planting, taking care to leave the papery skin of the cloves intact. Choose the largest undamaged cloves to plant. Plant them with their tips facing upward between 1 and 1 1/2 inches deep; space the cloves 3 to 5 inches apart, and space rows of cloves 18 to 30 inches apart. Water the planting site until the soil is thoroughly moistened.
Garlic doesn't need much water after planting, but if the soil is dry and it's not likely to rain soon, water the newly planted cloves thoroughly.
Choosing a Variety
Garlic can be of either the soft-neck or hard-neck type. Soft neck garlic varieties often have larger bulbs and will store longer than hard-neck types, but hard-neck varieties tend to be more cold-hardy and are better suited to the climate in Ohio. Varieties that do well in the state include "Music," "German White" and "German Red."
Timing of Planting
Garlic plants put their energy into leaf development when the weather is cool, and once the days start to get warmer, leaf growth stops and bulb growth takes over. Consequently, the plants need plenty of time early in the growing season to develop enough foliage to fuel bulb development later.
Most of Ohio falls into USDA zone 6a; exceptions include areas along the Lake Erie shore and the southern part of the state, which are classified as USDA zone 6b. Other higher-elevation areas fall into USDA zone 5b. In these zones, planting cloves in the fall, starting in the third week of October, will give the plants a jump on the season and allow the leaves to start growing through the winter. Alternatively, you can plant cloves in the early spring, but planting later than March or early April in Ohio will not give the plants enough time to develop fully.
Site Selection
Garlic needs a location that gets full sun through much of the day. It also needs well-drained soil with a light enough texture to allow for good bulb development. A loose, crumbly loam will satisfy both of the those requirements. Heavy clay soils, however, may retain too much moisture and cause bulbs to rot, and dense soils may result in small or ill-formed bulbs. Raised beds will also help soil to drain better and prevent bulb rot.
Soil Preparation
Garlic plants are heavy feeders, and they benefit from substantial amendment of the soil when they're planted. Add organic compost to the planting bed both to increase the soil's organic content and to improve the soil's texture. Till 3 to 6 inches of organic compost into the top 12 inches of soil. In addition, add about 3 pounds of a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed and work into the area prior to planting.
Clove Selection and Planting
It's best to buy seed garlic from a seed supplier or local grower. Supermarket garlic might grow in your garden, but when you know precisely what variety you're getting from a supplier, you're more likely to find a variety that will do well in your location.
Separate bulbs into individual cloves just prior to planting, taking care to leave the papery skin of the cloves intact. Choose the largest undamaged cloves to plant. Plant them with their tips facing upward between 1 and 1 1/2 inches deep; space the cloves 3 to 5 inches apart, and space rows of cloves 18 to 30 inches apart. Water the planting site until the soil is thoroughly moistened.
Garlic doesn't need much water after planting, but if the soil is dry and it's not likely to rain soon, water the newly planted cloves thoroughly.
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