文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月12日
Jalapenos are easy-to-grow pepper plants that produce abundantly if you live in an area with plenty of sunshine. The amount of time jalapenos produce in the garden depends on the length of your growing season. They begin bearing ripe fruit two to three months after being transplanted and continue to ripen fruit until frost.
About Jalapenos
Like all peppers, jalapenos are warm-weather crops and shouldn't be transplanted outside until both air and soil temperatures have warmed in the spring. Wait until night temperatures remain above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or you risk cold damage to the plants. Transplants will begin to bear ripe fruit in 70 to 85 days, depending on cultivar. Most gardeners start pepper plants indoors six to eight weeks before the anticipated set-out date, since jalapenos started from seed outdoors won't have harvestable fruit for about four months.
Temperature Requirements for Fruit Set
Jalapenos have a narrow temperature range during which they'll set fruit. Night temperatures must be above 60 F and below 75 F for successful fruit set; outside of that range the blossoms will fall off and fruit won't form. In addition, daytime temperatures above 90 F inhibits fruit formation, but fruiting will recommence once temperatures drop back below 90.
In the Fall
Jalapenos continue to ripen already-formed fruit throughout the fall, even if night temperatures are too cool for continued fruit set. However, the plants will die once subjected to frost. If frost is forecast for your area, either pull the entire plant and hang it in a warm, sheltered spot to allow the remaining fruit to ripen, or harvest all remaining fruit, regardless of size. Even small, immature jalapenos are tasty.
Identifying Ripe Jalapenos
Ripe jalapenos don't look very different than unripe ones, making it hard to tell when to pick them. The skin on ripe jalapenos should be dark green, smooth and shiny. Small cracks or lines that form on the shoulder of the fruit near the stem is an indication that the fruit is ripe. Darkened areas are also a sign that the fruit is ripe and is about to turn color. You can let jalapenos turn red on the vine, but their texture is softer and they won't keep as long as green ones. Red jalapenos are no hotter than ripe green fruit.
About Jalapenos
Like all peppers, jalapenos are warm-weather crops and shouldn't be transplanted outside until both air and soil temperatures have warmed in the spring. Wait until night temperatures remain above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or you risk cold damage to the plants. Transplants will begin to bear ripe fruit in 70 to 85 days, depending on cultivar. Most gardeners start pepper plants indoors six to eight weeks before the anticipated set-out date, since jalapenos started from seed outdoors won't have harvestable fruit for about four months.
Temperature Requirements for Fruit Set
Jalapenos have a narrow temperature range during which they'll set fruit. Night temperatures must be above 60 F and below 75 F for successful fruit set; outside of that range the blossoms will fall off and fruit won't form. In addition, daytime temperatures above 90 F inhibits fruit formation, but fruiting will recommence once temperatures drop back below 90.
In the Fall
Jalapenos continue to ripen already-formed fruit throughout the fall, even if night temperatures are too cool for continued fruit set. However, the plants will die once subjected to frost. If frost is forecast for your area, either pull the entire plant and hang it in a warm, sheltered spot to allow the remaining fruit to ripen, or harvest all remaining fruit, regardless of size. Even small, immature jalapenos are tasty.
Identifying Ripe Jalapenos
Ripe jalapenos don't look very different than unripe ones, making it hard to tell when to pick them. The skin on ripe jalapenos should be dark green, smooth and shiny. Small cracks or lines that form on the shoulder of the fruit near the stem is an indication that the fruit is ripe. Darkened areas are also a sign that the fruit is ripe and is about to turn color. You can let jalapenos turn red on the vine, but their texture is softer and they won't keep as long as green ones. Red jalapenos are no hotter than ripe green fruit.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Watermelons are a warm-season crop prized for their sweet, juicy, bright pink fruit. Because watermelons need warm weather to both germinate and thrive, southern growers generally have more success with them. Likewise, because they require a long growing season of warm weather, getting your plants into the ground as early as possible will ensure a healthy crop. If you're a northern gardener or getting a late start, you can use techniques that will help you grow watermelons in less-than-ideal conditions.
Time to Harvest
Like most fruit and vegetable plants, watermelon varieties vary in the amount of time you need to allot between planting and harvest. Early varieties such as Sugar Baby and Golden Crown require between 70 to 75 days between germination and harvest. Most watermelons -- including the seedless varieties -- need 80 to 85 days to fully ripen before harvest. Check the seed packet or plant tag for information on harvest time.
Frost Tolerance
Watermelons are a tender crop, meaning that they cannot survive frosts. While you can use tools and techniques to give your plants some protection from the cold, watermelons grow best in warm weather, so you should anticipate harvesting them before the first frost. To determine the last possible date when you can plant watermelons in your area, you first need to determine the first frost date for your region. The National Climatic Data Center maintains this information, and you can also find it from a cooperative extension agent or experienced nursery employee. Subtract the number of days needed until harvest, adding a week if you plan to start the plants from seed. This date is the last possible date you can plant watermelons in your area, although ideally, you should have them in the ground well before then.
Extending the Season
If you got a later start planting your watermelons than you intended, plant transplants rather than seeds, if possible. Watermelons grown from transplants are ready to harvest two weeks before those grown from seed.
If you find temperatures dropping before your melons are ready for harvest, you can use several techniques to keep both the soil and the air around them warm. Black plastic mulch spread between the rows raises the soil temperature. To protect plants from cool weather and early frosts, cover plants with floating row covers. These lightweight covers allow full penetration of light and water while raising temperatures a few degrees around the plants.
Black plastic mulch raises soil temperatures to the minimum 60 degrees Fahrenheit that watermelons need.
Gardeners in cool, northern climates have less room for error when planting watermelons. If you find yourself getting a late start because springtime conditions aren't warm enough for watermelons, you can jumpstart the melon season and better ensure a good harvest. Start seeds indoors four weeks before the last spring frost date in your area so that plants can go directly into the ground without waiting for germination. To warm the soil for your plants, use black plastic mulch but remove it or spray it white once summer temperatures heat up. Floating row covers can keep the occasional chilly spring day from damaging your plants.
Time to Harvest
Like most fruit and vegetable plants, watermelon varieties vary in the amount of time you need to allot between planting and harvest. Early varieties such as Sugar Baby and Golden Crown require between 70 to 75 days between germination and harvest. Most watermelons -- including the seedless varieties -- need 80 to 85 days to fully ripen before harvest. Check the seed packet or plant tag for information on harvest time.
Frost Tolerance
Watermelons are a tender crop, meaning that they cannot survive frosts. While you can use tools and techniques to give your plants some protection from the cold, watermelons grow best in warm weather, so you should anticipate harvesting them before the first frost. To determine the last possible date when you can plant watermelons in your area, you first need to determine the first frost date for your region. The National Climatic Data Center maintains this information, and you can also find it from a cooperative extension agent or experienced nursery employee. Subtract the number of days needed until harvest, adding a week if you plan to start the plants from seed. This date is the last possible date you can plant watermelons in your area, although ideally, you should have them in the ground well before then.
Extending the Season
If you got a later start planting your watermelons than you intended, plant transplants rather than seeds, if possible. Watermelons grown from transplants are ready to harvest two weeks before those grown from seed.
If you find temperatures dropping before your melons are ready for harvest, you can use several techniques to keep both the soil and the air around them warm. Black plastic mulch spread between the rows raises the soil temperature. To protect plants from cool weather and early frosts, cover plants with floating row covers. These lightweight covers allow full penetration of light and water while raising temperatures a few degrees around the plants.
Black plastic mulch raises soil temperatures to the minimum 60 degrees Fahrenheit that watermelons need.
Gardeners in cool, northern climates have less room for error when planting watermelons. If you find yourself getting a late start because springtime conditions aren't warm enough for watermelons, you can jumpstart the melon season and better ensure a good harvest. Start seeds indoors four weeks before the last spring frost date in your area so that plants can go directly into the ground without waiting for germination. To warm the soil for your plants, use black plastic mulch but remove it or spray it white once summer temperatures heat up. Floating row covers can keep the occasional chilly spring day from damaging your plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
As a vegetable gardener, you're probably familiar with the good feeling most gardeners get from harvesting their own crops. It's disappointing, though, to see garden produce such as green peppers (Capsicum spp.) develop black areas and stop growing when they're only partially formed. Several problems can cause blackening of pepper fruits. So identifying the specific cause is an important first step in dealing with the problem and saving the remaining crop.
Plant Diseases
Peppers usually are grown as annual plants in all parts of the United States, but they are perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. Whether grown as annuals or perennials, they thrive in well-drained soil and full-sun exposure.
Most pepper types, including bell pepper (Capsicum annuum), a common type, start setting fruits about six weeks after they are planted. The fruits gradually enlarge and, depending on the variety, may stay green or turn yellow, orange or red when fully mature. Although usually trouble-free plants, peppers can be susceptible to plant diseases that may damage and discolor their fruits.
Fungal Problems
Several fungal disorders can cause ripening pepper fruits to develop black spots. One of the disorders is anthracnose, which leads to round lesions on pepper fruits; the lesions sometimes have black rings in their center and can enlarge enough to cover and collapse entire fruits. Another fungal disease, called Phytophthora blight, also can cause black areas on pepper fruits, with those areas eventually covering entire fruits. Phytophthora blight also produces black areas on pepper plant stems and overall wilting of the plants.
The best way to prevent fungal problems is to inspect transplants carefully and choose only those without any wilted or damaged leaves. Also, choose varieties certified as disease-resistant. Water the plants at their bases to keep their foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal growth, and space the plants at least 18 to 24 inches apart to give them good air circulation.
Once you see signs of a fungal problem in a pepper plant, you might be able to save the plant by pruning away and discarding its affected parts, cutting behind diseased areas and into healthy tissue with sharp shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading the disease. If the entire plant is affected, discard it to prevent the fungus' spread to other plants. It's also helpful to rotate planting areas because fungi live in the soil and can reinfect the next year's crop.
Viral Infection
An infection caused by the tomato spotted wilt virus may cause light-colored rings on pepper fruits, and the rings may slowly turn black. The affected plant's leaves become bronze-colored and wilt, and a severely infected plant could die. This virus is spread by a thrip, a tan or yellowish brown insect about 1/25th inch long. If thrips or tomato spotted wilt virus symptoms appear on a pepper plant, then mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on all parts of the plant until they are dripping wet. Use the spray on a windless day when the temperature is at or below 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If an entire plant shows symptoms of the virus, it's best to discard it.
Blossom End-Rot
A problem called blossom end-rot also can produce black spots on pepper fruits. Each spot looks sunken and rotted, and it appears on the fruit's blossom end -- not the fruit's stem end. If you see a small, black spot on an otherwise healthy pepper fruit, then it's fine to pick the fruit and use its unaffected areas, but discard its blackened end. If, though, the damage involves most of a fruit, then pick and discard that fruit, allowing the plant to put its energy into other, healthy fruits.
Blossom end-rot develops when the soil is poor in calcium or when plants have difficulty using the calcium that's present. The best way to prevent the problem is to avoid moisture stress to the plants by ensuring they get at least 1 inch of water weekly. Add about a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface under each pepper plant to conserve soil moisture, keeping the mulch back a bit from every plant's center to discourage fungus.
If you encounter blossom end-rot in your pepper plants, check their soil's pH level with a soil test kit before the next growing season, ensuring that it's pH 6.5 to 6.8, a level that helps make soil calcium available to the plants. If necessary, pre-treat the soil the next spring as recommended in the soil test result. If, for example, the soil's pH is 7.5, then add 1 1/5 pounds of aluminum sulfate for each 10 square feet of area to lower the soil's pH to 6.5.
Plant Diseases
Peppers usually are grown as annual plants in all parts of the United States, but they are perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. Whether grown as annuals or perennials, they thrive in well-drained soil and full-sun exposure.
Most pepper types, including bell pepper (Capsicum annuum), a common type, start setting fruits about six weeks after they are planted. The fruits gradually enlarge and, depending on the variety, may stay green or turn yellow, orange or red when fully mature. Although usually trouble-free plants, peppers can be susceptible to plant diseases that may damage and discolor their fruits.
Fungal Problems
Several fungal disorders can cause ripening pepper fruits to develop black spots. One of the disorders is anthracnose, which leads to round lesions on pepper fruits; the lesions sometimes have black rings in their center and can enlarge enough to cover and collapse entire fruits. Another fungal disease, called Phytophthora blight, also can cause black areas on pepper fruits, with those areas eventually covering entire fruits. Phytophthora blight also produces black areas on pepper plant stems and overall wilting of the plants.
The best way to prevent fungal problems is to inspect transplants carefully and choose only those without any wilted or damaged leaves. Also, choose varieties certified as disease-resistant. Water the plants at their bases to keep their foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal growth, and space the plants at least 18 to 24 inches apart to give them good air circulation.
Once you see signs of a fungal problem in a pepper plant, you might be able to save the plant by pruning away and discarding its affected parts, cutting behind diseased areas and into healthy tissue with sharp shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading the disease. If the entire plant is affected, discard it to prevent the fungus' spread to other plants. It's also helpful to rotate planting areas because fungi live in the soil and can reinfect the next year's crop.
Viral Infection
An infection caused by the tomato spotted wilt virus may cause light-colored rings on pepper fruits, and the rings may slowly turn black. The affected plant's leaves become bronze-colored and wilt, and a severely infected plant could die. This virus is spread by a thrip, a tan or yellowish brown insect about 1/25th inch long. If thrips or tomato spotted wilt virus symptoms appear on a pepper plant, then mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on all parts of the plant until they are dripping wet. Use the spray on a windless day when the temperature is at or below 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If an entire plant shows symptoms of the virus, it's best to discard it.
Blossom End-Rot
A problem called blossom end-rot also can produce black spots on pepper fruits. Each spot looks sunken and rotted, and it appears on the fruit's blossom end -- not the fruit's stem end. If you see a small, black spot on an otherwise healthy pepper fruit, then it's fine to pick the fruit and use its unaffected areas, but discard its blackened end. If, though, the damage involves most of a fruit, then pick and discard that fruit, allowing the plant to put its energy into other, healthy fruits.
Blossom end-rot develops when the soil is poor in calcium or when plants have difficulty using the calcium that's present. The best way to prevent the problem is to avoid moisture stress to the plants by ensuring they get at least 1 inch of water weekly. Add about a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface under each pepper plant to conserve soil moisture, keeping the mulch back a bit from every plant's center to discourage fungus.
If you encounter blossom end-rot in your pepper plants, check their soil's pH level with a soil test kit before the next growing season, ensuring that it's pH 6.5 to 6.8, a level that helps make soil calcium available to the plants. If necessary, pre-treat the soil the next spring as recommended in the soil test result. If, for example, the soil's pH is 7.5, then add 1 1/5 pounds of aluminum sulfate for each 10 square feet of area to lower the soil's pH to 6.5.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
In addition to proper fertilizing and watering techniques, onion variety selection is an important factor in growing large onions. Long-day onions grow well in Northern regions, while short-day onions produce large bulbs in the South. The number and size of the leaves at maturity predicts how large the onions will be. More leaves means larger onions.
Before Planting
Before planting onion transplants or sets, amend the soil with 3 inches of compost, which improves soil texture and provides some slow-release nutrients. Add 1/2 cup balanced fertilizer per 10 feet of row and till the amendments to a depth of 8 inches. Use 1/2 cup super phosphate fertilizer instead of balanced fertilizer if planting onion seed. Super phosphate acts as a starter fertilizer, encouraging strong, early roots.
Growing Season
Onions need a steady supply of nitrogen to form large bulbs. Side dress growing plants in early and midsummer with 1/2 cup nitrogen-based fertilizer. Use ammonium sulfate if your soil is alkaline because this fertilizer lowers the pH slightly. Ammonium nitrate works well for gardens with acidic soil.
Organic Options
Spread two or three shovelfuls of compost among the onions instead of fertilizer and dig it lightly into the soil. Take care not to nick the bulbs with the shovel. Read package labels carefully and choose a high-quality compost made from manure and composted vegetable material. Avoid composts that contain biosolids or sludge in the vegetable garden.
Considerations
Don't apply fertilizer after midsummer. Late applications of fertilizer encourage new, soft growth and the onions won't keep as well. In addition to adequate fertilizer, onions need evenly moist soil to grow large. Mulch the ground with untreated grass clippings to conserve moisture. Spread 1/4 inch grass clippings over the soil each week, allowing the clippings to dry before adding more.
Before Planting
Before planting onion transplants or sets, amend the soil with 3 inches of compost, which improves soil texture and provides some slow-release nutrients. Add 1/2 cup balanced fertilizer per 10 feet of row and till the amendments to a depth of 8 inches. Use 1/2 cup super phosphate fertilizer instead of balanced fertilizer if planting onion seed. Super phosphate acts as a starter fertilizer, encouraging strong, early roots.
Growing Season
Onions need a steady supply of nitrogen to form large bulbs. Side dress growing plants in early and midsummer with 1/2 cup nitrogen-based fertilizer. Use ammonium sulfate if your soil is alkaline because this fertilizer lowers the pH slightly. Ammonium nitrate works well for gardens with acidic soil.
Organic Options
Spread two or three shovelfuls of compost among the onions instead of fertilizer and dig it lightly into the soil. Take care not to nick the bulbs with the shovel. Read package labels carefully and choose a high-quality compost made from manure and composted vegetable material. Avoid composts that contain biosolids or sludge in the vegetable garden.
Considerations
Don't apply fertilizer after midsummer. Late applications of fertilizer encourage new, soft growth and the onions won't keep as well. In addition to adequate fertilizer, onions need evenly moist soil to grow large. Mulch the ground with untreated grass clippings to conserve moisture. Spread 1/4 inch grass clippings over the soil each week, allowing the clippings to dry before adding more.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Companion planting is an organic method of gardening that uses plants to assist each other in growing. Plants all contain various natural substances that can either aid or hinder another plant's growing abilities. Companion planting is also an important part of integrated pest management by repelling harmful insects without losing any beneficial allies. Brussels sprouts is part of the cabbage family and suffers and benefits from the same factors as other members of the cabbage family. Several herbs and crops make useful companions to Brussels sprouts.
Improve Flavor
Chamomile improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts, but use it sparingly. Only grow one plant every 150 feet because this low-growing herb with daisy-like apple-scented flowers is a creeper and can spread quickly. Garlic is another companion herb that improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts. Additionally, garlic doubles as a pest repellent and has anti-fungal properties, too. Garlic plants are easy to grow and grow from the individual cloves on the bulb. Nearby sage plants also help to make Brussels sprouts more succulent and tasty. Sage also likes to grow next to rosemary, which is a pest deterrent for cabbage crops.
Deter Pests
Cabbage crops including Brussels sprouts are all susceptible to the same pests. Plant onions nearby to keep the hardest to control insect -- aphids -- in check. These small green, orange, yellow, red, black or white insects suck the plant's juices, causing yellow leaves. Nasturtiums also help deter aphids from Brussels sprout plants by acting as a trap that the aphids flock to. Nasturtiums also keep away various types of beetles like the flea beetle, which chew tiny holes in the Brussels sprouts leaves and roots. Another leaf-chewing pest is the cabbage worm, which is curbed by planting potatoes. Cabbage worms morph into cabbage white butterflies or moths, which also are a pest to Brussels sprout crops. Plant celery stalks to lure them away, as well as aromatic herbs like sage, hyssop, rosemary, peppermint and catnip.
Add Nutrients
Grow beets next to Brussels sprouts to help the soil's fertility. They contribute minerals to the soil like magnesium. Magnesium deficiency is a common problem when growing Brussels sprouts, and is identified by yellowish outer areas around the leaves. Beets are also a companion plant to onions, another of Brussels sprouts companions, and help deter common pests like aphids. Grow all three close to each other for maximum performance. Green manures are cover crops that are grown specifically to return nutrients back to the soil. Brussels sprouts are heavy feeders and often require a lot of nitrogen, which leguminous cover crops are big suppliers of. Alfalfa is one the highest nitrogen providers. Other useful cover crops for Brussels sprouts are clover, winter rye and vetch.
Non-Companions
Although both plants are cool season crops, never plant Brussels sprouts, or any other member of the cabbage family, near strawberry plants. Brussels sprout plant growth is inhibited when planted near strawberries. Keep Brussels sprout plants away from tomatoes and pole beans, too. Cabbage crops contain plant chemicals that inhibit tomato growth, as well as other nightshades like eggplants and peppers.
Improve Flavor
Chamomile improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts, but use it sparingly. Only grow one plant every 150 feet because this low-growing herb with daisy-like apple-scented flowers is a creeper and can spread quickly. Garlic is another companion herb that improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts. Additionally, garlic doubles as a pest repellent and has anti-fungal properties, too. Garlic plants are easy to grow and grow from the individual cloves on the bulb. Nearby sage plants also help to make Brussels sprouts more succulent and tasty. Sage also likes to grow next to rosemary, which is a pest deterrent for cabbage crops.
Deter Pests
Cabbage crops including Brussels sprouts are all susceptible to the same pests. Plant onions nearby to keep the hardest to control insect -- aphids -- in check. These small green, orange, yellow, red, black or white insects suck the plant's juices, causing yellow leaves. Nasturtiums also help deter aphids from Brussels sprout plants by acting as a trap that the aphids flock to. Nasturtiums also keep away various types of beetles like the flea beetle, which chew tiny holes in the Brussels sprouts leaves and roots. Another leaf-chewing pest is the cabbage worm, which is curbed by planting potatoes. Cabbage worms morph into cabbage white butterflies or moths, which also are a pest to Brussels sprout crops. Plant celery stalks to lure them away, as well as aromatic herbs like sage, hyssop, rosemary, peppermint and catnip.
Add Nutrients
Grow beets next to Brussels sprouts to help the soil's fertility. They contribute minerals to the soil like magnesium. Magnesium deficiency is a common problem when growing Brussels sprouts, and is identified by yellowish outer areas around the leaves. Beets are also a companion plant to onions, another of Brussels sprouts companions, and help deter common pests like aphids. Grow all three close to each other for maximum performance. Green manures are cover crops that are grown specifically to return nutrients back to the soil. Brussels sprouts are heavy feeders and often require a lot of nitrogen, which leguminous cover crops are big suppliers of. Alfalfa is one the highest nitrogen providers. Other useful cover crops for Brussels sprouts are clover, winter rye and vetch.
Non-Companions
Although both plants are cool season crops, never plant Brussels sprouts, or any other member of the cabbage family, near strawberry plants. Brussels sprout plant growth is inhibited when planted near strawberries. Keep Brussels sprout plants away from tomatoes and pole beans, too. Cabbage crops contain plant chemicals that inhibit tomato growth, as well as other nightshades like eggplants and peppers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月22日
Carrots are sweet root vegetables that grow best in the early spring. The produce contains a high amount of vitamin A and fiber. Sometimes harvested carrots may not taste sweet. A bitter-tasting carrot may leave you feeling discouraged about growing your own carrots. Knowing why your carrots taste bitter can help you salvage your crops so that you can enjoy their pleasant and naturally sweet flavor.
High Temperatures
Carrots grow best in temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit because they are cool-season vegetables. According to the University of Missouri, carrots will have a bitter flavor when temperatures reach more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The sugars in the carrots may not have formed or the terpenoids may remain high in the carrots. When temperatures begin to warm outdoors, mulch the carrots to help keep the soil cool. For best results, harvest the carrots as soon as possible.
Aster Yellows Disease
Aster yellows disease can form on carrots due to the aster leafhopper. When the leafhopper feeds on infected plants for an extended time, its saliva becomes inoculated with the pathogens and can spread the disease, according to Missouri Botanical Garden. The carrot leaves may begin to turn yellow, the carrot growth may slow down and the carrot roots may become bitter. The roots will also have fine hairs and lack color. Manage the disease by removing infected carrots and control the insects by covering the crops with mesh fabric. The Missouri Botanical Garden also suggests removing weeds from the garden because they may contain the disease.
Harvesting Too Young
Pulling the carrots out of the ground while they are young and tender may result in a bitter or soapy flavor, according to the World Carrot Museum. Different varieties of carrots can have a higher amount of terpenoids, which will form before the sugars in the carrot. When you harvest the carrots while they are young, they may not contain enough sugar, which results in the bitter taste. Harvest the carrots when they are 1/2 inch in diameter and continue to harvest them throughout the growing season only when they are mature. Most carrots reach maturity within 60 to 70 days after you plant them if the growing conditions are right.
Improper Storage
After you harvest carrots, they need to be stored properly to keep them fresh. Carrots are best stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer away from apples and pears. The Center for Urban Education About Sustainable Agriculture suggests that the release of ethylene gas from these fruits can cause the carrots to have a bitter taste. Trim the tops off the carrots and keep them in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator for three to four weeks. The green tops only last for two to three days on the carrots and need to be stored separately from them.
High Temperatures
Carrots grow best in temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit because they are cool-season vegetables. According to the University of Missouri, carrots will have a bitter flavor when temperatures reach more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The sugars in the carrots may not have formed or the terpenoids may remain high in the carrots. When temperatures begin to warm outdoors, mulch the carrots to help keep the soil cool. For best results, harvest the carrots as soon as possible.
Aster Yellows Disease
Aster yellows disease can form on carrots due to the aster leafhopper. When the leafhopper feeds on infected plants for an extended time, its saliva becomes inoculated with the pathogens and can spread the disease, according to Missouri Botanical Garden. The carrot leaves may begin to turn yellow, the carrot growth may slow down and the carrot roots may become bitter. The roots will also have fine hairs and lack color. Manage the disease by removing infected carrots and control the insects by covering the crops with mesh fabric. The Missouri Botanical Garden also suggests removing weeds from the garden because they may contain the disease.
Harvesting Too Young
Pulling the carrots out of the ground while they are young and tender may result in a bitter or soapy flavor, according to the World Carrot Museum. Different varieties of carrots can have a higher amount of terpenoids, which will form before the sugars in the carrot. When you harvest the carrots while they are young, they may not contain enough sugar, which results in the bitter taste. Harvest the carrots when they are 1/2 inch in diameter and continue to harvest them throughout the growing season only when they are mature. Most carrots reach maturity within 60 to 70 days after you plant them if the growing conditions are right.
Improper Storage
After you harvest carrots, they need to be stored properly to keep them fresh. Carrots are best stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer away from apples and pears. The Center for Urban Education About Sustainable Agriculture suggests that the release of ethylene gas from these fruits can cause the carrots to have a bitter taste. Trim the tops off the carrots and keep them in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator for three to four weeks. The green tops only last for two to three days on the carrots and need to be stored separately from them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Lack of garden space shouldn't stop you from growing a crop of Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea gemmifera). Simply pot them up in containers on a porch, patio or even an unheated, bright indoor area. Brussels sprouts are annual plants that take between 80 and 110 days to grow before harvest. Dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties, such as "Catskill" or "Long Island," work best for containers. Brussels sprouts grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10.
Selecting the Right Pot
Grow Brussels sprouts, one to a pot, in 12-inch-diameter containers or grow multiple plants in large planters, leaving 24 inches between plants. Only use planters with drainage holes in the bottom. Plastic, wood, metal and terra cotta all work well. If you use old, reclaimed wood such as window boxes or troughs as planters, make sure it's not made pressure-treated wood or painted with lead or other toxic paint.
Potting Soil, Compost and Water
Mix 2 parts standard potting soil with 1 part well seasoned compost to grow Brussels sprouts in pots. This compost-potting soil mix provides nutrients for the first part of the growing season.
Water the containers when the top of the soil starts to feel dry, adding enough to thoroughly soak the potting soil all the way through. When excess water starts to leak out the bottom, it indicates the soil is thoroughly damp.
Growing Season and Sun Needs
This cold-weather crop grows best when the air temperature is between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Grow container Brussels sprouts outdoors starting in late winter, four weeks before the last frost. Started in late summer, they grow well through the fall and early winter. In mild climates, grow Brussels sprouts outdoors in winter.
Grow Brussels sprouts in pots where they will get at least six hours of sun each day.
Mid-Season Fertilizer
Fertilize mid-season, when the plants stand about 12 inches tall. Select a water-soluble fertilizer for vegetables and herbs with high nitrogen content for strong leaf production. Nitrogen is the first number on the label. A general purpose vegetable fertilizer, for example a 24-8-16 formula, works well. Use 1/2 teaspoon mixed with 1 gallon of water for each plant. Pour the water over the soil, then add more water if needed to soak the soil all the way through.
Selecting the Right Pot
Grow Brussels sprouts, one to a pot, in 12-inch-diameter containers or grow multiple plants in large planters, leaving 24 inches between plants. Only use planters with drainage holes in the bottom. Plastic, wood, metal and terra cotta all work well. If you use old, reclaimed wood such as window boxes or troughs as planters, make sure it's not made pressure-treated wood or painted with lead or other toxic paint.
Potting Soil, Compost and Water
Mix 2 parts standard potting soil with 1 part well seasoned compost to grow Brussels sprouts in pots. This compost-potting soil mix provides nutrients for the first part of the growing season.
Water the containers when the top of the soil starts to feel dry, adding enough to thoroughly soak the potting soil all the way through. When excess water starts to leak out the bottom, it indicates the soil is thoroughly damp.
Growing Season and Sun Needs
This cold-weather crop grows best when the air temperature is between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Grow container Brussels sprouts outdoors starting in late winter, four weeks before the last frost. Started in late summer, they grow well through the fall and early winter. In mild climates, grow Brussels sprouts outdoors in winter.
Grow Brussels sprouts in pots where they will get at least six hours of sun each day.
Mid-Season Fertilizer
Fertilize mid-season, when the plants stand about 12 inches tall. Select a water-soluble fertilizer for vegetables and herbs with high nitrogen content for strong leaf production. Nitrogen is the first number on the label. A general purpose vegetable fertilizer, for example a 24-8-16 formula, works well. Use 1/2 teaspoon mixed with 1 gallon of water for each plant. Pour the water over the soil, then add more water if needed to soak the soil all the way through.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Fresh-from-the-garden salads and side dishes are staples during the summer months. However, much of the country benefits from an extended growing season that reaches beyond summer's hot days. Planting in spring and fall opens up the possibilities for other crops that are sometimes overlooked. Knowing what to plant and when, however, requires some basic knowledge about different types of vegetables.
Tender and Hardy Crops
Crops are often labeled as tender, semi-hardy or hardy. These labels refer to how well -- if at all -- the vegetables handle mild or hard frosts. Tender vegetables -- including sweet corn (Zea mays var. saccharata), cucumber (Cucumis sativus), cantaloupe (Cucumis melo var. cantalupensis), pepper (Capsicum spp.), bean (Phaseolus spp.) and tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) -- are particularly susceptible to even light frosts.
Semi-hardy vegetables include parsnip (Pastinaca sativa), carrot (Daucus carota), celery (Apium graveolens var. dulce) and lettuce (Lactuca sativa). These vegetables handle light to moderate frosts.
The hardiest crops include onion (Allium cepa), pea (Pisum sativum), radish (Raphanus sativus) and turnip (Brassica rapa subsp. rapa), along with several cole crops: broccoli, kale, brussels sprouts and kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea variations).
Too Much Heat
Semi-hardy and hardy vegetables do best in cooler temperatures, making them ideal candidates for early spring or fall plantings. Many of the semi-hardy or hardy vegetables are prone to bolting, or going to seed too quickly, in summer's heat. The heat, along with bolting, can produce bitter crops or other problems, including wilting.
Late spring and summer also produce the highest concentrations of pest populations. Early spring and fall gardening allows you to skip the hassle of dealing with insects.
Winter Harvests
Many hardy vegetables can go into the ground as soon as the soil is thawed and workable. For fall gardens, planting times vary between July and August. Some, however, can go into the ground much later in fall.
Peas, spinach (Spinacia oleracea), onions and garlic (Allium sativum) all do well in fall-planted gardens throughout much of the country; in milder climates, you can follow winter planting dates for many of them.
You can also use the cool soil temperatures to your advantage in other ways, such as storage in a natural root cellar. For example, leave carrots and potatoes in the ground and harvest them until the ground freezes. Many root crops sweeten during the cooler winter temperatures. Cover exposed roots with loose soil, but allow the greens to stay uncovered. If particularly hard frosts are projected, cover the vegetables loosely with a sheet or loose straw, and then uncover them when temps rise above freezing.
Check the Calendar
Knowing your average first and last frost dates, along with the days to harvest, can help you determine when you need to get certain crops in the ground. The backs of seed packets show the days to harvest; this number gives you the average number of days your specific variety takes to mature enough for picking.
For tender and semi-hardy vegetables, subtract the days to harvest from your average first frost date to get your latest possible planting date. In spring, plant tender crops after the danger of frost, which may run into May or possibly June in colder climates.
Tender and Hardy Crops
Crops are often labeled as tender, semi-hardy or hardy. These labels refer to how well -- if at all -- the vegetables handle mild or hard frosts. Tender vegetables -- including sweet corn (Zea mays var. saccharata), cucumber (Cucumis sativus), cantaloupe (Cucumis melo var. cantalupensis), pepper (Capsicum spp.), bean (Phaseolus spp.) and tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) -- are particularly susceptible to even light frosts.
Semi-hardy vegetables include parsnip (Pastinaca sativa), carrot (Daucus carota), celery (Apium graveolens var. dulce) and lettuce (Lactuca sativa). These vegetables handle light to moderate frosts.
The hardiest crops include onion (Allium cepa), pea (Pisum sativum), radish (Raphanus sativus) and turnip (Brassica rapa subsp. rapa), along with several cole crops: broccoli, kale, brussels sprouts and kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea variations).
Too Much Heat
Semi-hardy and hardy vegetables do best in cooler temperatures, making them ideal candidates for early spring or fall plantings. Many of the semi-hardy or hardy vegetables are prone to bolting, or going to seed too quickly, in summer's heat. The heat, along with bolting, can produce bitter crops or other problems, including wilting.
Late spring and summer also produce the highest concentrations of pest populations. Early spring and fall gardening allows you to skip the hassle of dealing with insects.
Winter Harvests
Many hardy vegetables can go into the ground as soon as the soil is thawed and workable. For fall gardens, planting times vary between July and August. Some, however, can go into the ground much later in fall.
Peas, spinach (Spinacia oleracea), onions and garlic (Allium sativum) all do well in fall-planted gardens throughout much of the country; in milder climates, you can follow winter planting dates for many of them.
You can also use the cool soil temperatures to your advantage in other ways, such as storage in a natural root cellar. For example, leave carrots and potatoes in the ground and harvest them until the ground freezes. Many root crops sweeten during the cooler winter temperatures. Cover exposed roots with loose soil, but allow the greens to stay uncovered. If particularly hard frosts are projected, cover the vegetables loosely with a sheet or loose straw, and then uncover them when temps rise above freezing.
Check the Calendar
Knowing your average first and last frost dates, along with the days to harvest, can help you determine when you need to get certain crops in the ground. The backs of seed packets show the days to harvest; this number gives you the average number of days your specific variety takes to mature enough for picking.
For tender and semi-hardy vegetables, subtract the days to harvest from your average first frost date to get your latest possible planting date. In spring, plant tender crops after the danger of frost, which may run into May or possibly June in colder climates.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
While it's more common to have bumper crops of fast-growing zucchini (Cucurbita pepo), some factors can slow down the growth of your annual zucchini or make the plant produce small fruit. For most summer squash, like zucchini, small, young zucchini are more tender and flavorful, but if you want larger zucchini for stuffing, there are some things to do to ensure your zucchini grow well. Trimming the leaves is not one of those things.
Leave the Leaves Alone
The leaves are the food manufacturers for the plant. The large, abundant leaves on a zucchini plant provide shade and keep out weeds by blocking sunlight from reaching the soil and providing nourishment for the weeds. If you cut off the leaves, your zucchini loses its source of fuel, and may slow its growth. Don't bother your zucchini's leaves and look to other ways to improve growth.
Poor Pollination
The most common reason for tiny zucchini that drop off the plant is poor pollination. Bees may not be visiting your garden due to weather extremes or because you've used insecticides. If a lack of bees in your area are keeping your zucchini from growing to their full potential, you need to hand pollinate the plants. Pull off the male flowers. which have a long, thin, straight stem at the base, and touch the center of it to the centers of the female flowers that appear a day later and have a bulbous growth at their bases.
Fertilizer Fouls
Too much or too little fertilizer can cause your zucchini to not grow as large as you want. If you over-fertilize, the plant produces more leaves instead of concentrating its growth on the zucchini, but this does not mean that you need to remove those leaves. Because zucchini plants grow quickly, they are heavy feeders, which means if you don't give them enough fertilizer, their growth and the plant's yield can suffer. Both of these cases can be remedied by improving your fertilization techniques, quantities and method.
When you plant the zucchini, sprinkle 1 tablespoon per hill of a fertilizer that has more potassium and phosphorous in it than nitrogen, for instance a 6-10-10. One week after the blooms appear, apply 1 tablespoon of pure nitrogen fertilizer next to the plants, and repeat this side dressing three weeks later to ensure the proper amount of nitrogen in the soil as the zucchini are growing larger and require more nitrogen.
Watering Woes
Water stress may impact the size of your zucchini. This usually occurs when an exceptionally dry period is followed by heavy watering. Whether you just went out of town for a week and could not water your garden or if you forgot, these fluctuations in moisture can create small, misshapen fruit on the zucchini bush. Water your zucchinis weekly so the soil feels moist down 6 to 8 inches below the surface, but don't get water on the leaves, which can spread diseases. Drip irrigation is the best as it delivers water straight to where the zucchini needs it, and you can get under the leaves, which help to conserve moisture in the soil by blocking the sun from the soil, which is another reason to leave the leaves on the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月06日
Gardeners have the option of growing vegetables that develop on annual vines. In some instances, the vines need sufficient room to spread out, but you can support some of these vegetable vines with stakes and grow them vertically. Some vining vegetables are native to North America and have a long history of cultivation on the continent. Others hail from other continents. Although some of these species may be fruits botanically, people use them as vegetables.
Summer Squash
Summer squash, or Cucurbita pepo, is a North American native, with its origins probably in Mexico, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden. The term "summer squash" covers such squash types as zucchini, crookneck squash and straightneck squash. Summer squash develops quickly after the vines bloom, often within 50 days. The vines are compact, maturing to between 2 and 4 feet long. Plant summer squash vine cultivars 3 to 4 feet apart, with 8 feet between rows to give the vines abundant room. Plant the seeds outdoors after the last threat of frost passes, when soil temperatures reach 65 F.
Cucumber
The vines of cucumbers, or Cucumis sativus, sprawl along the ground or grow with support, climbing as high as 6 feet. Cucumbers are not North American native vines, potentially originating in India. Cucumbers require full sunshine, fertile soil and consistent water to grow properly. Cucumbers come in varied forms, with those suitable for pickling growing to between 3 and 4 inches, while those appropriate for slicing normally between 7 and 8 inches in length. Some cucumber cultivars grow as bushes, but the vines yield more fruit.
Pumpkins
The larger types of pumpkins, Cucurbita maxima, sometimes need a prolonged growing season, making them unsuitable for some northern climates. Pumpkins are a form of squash that grows on an annual vine, with some vines being 12 feet long. Pumpkins are edible or ornamental, with varieties bred for taste or size. The seeds are edible when toasted. Pumpkins are a Central American native species. Cucumber beetles, aphids and the squash bug are some insect pests that attack pumpkin vines.
Winter Squash
South and Central America are the likely origins of winter squash, Cucurbita moschata, a type of squash harvested after growing on the vine all summer and into the fall. Winter squash comes in what Cornell University describes as a "staggering" number of cultivars. Types such as acorn, Hubbard and butternut squash are common forms of winter squash. The vines grow along the ground, some to lengths between 10 and 15 feet. Winter squash is cold sensitive; it fails to grow before the temperatures reach 65 to 70 F. Diseases, including bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew, affect winter squash vines.
Pole Beans
The vines of pole beans,Phaseolus vulgaris, sometimes grow to 10 feet high. Needing the support of long stakes or a trellis, pole beans grown in this manner produce as much as three times the amount of beans as bush beans grown in an equivalent space will. Pole beans, like most bean species, resist transplanting, making it important to start them outside where you intend them to stay. Wait until all chance of frost is gone before planting pole beans. Diseases, such as bacterial blight and leaf mold, affect pole beans, with the chance of spreading the ailments among your plants great if you work among the plants when their leaves are wet.
Summer Squash
Summer squash, or Cucurbita pepo, is a North American native, with its origins probably in Mexico, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden. The term "summer squash" covers such squash types as zucchini, crookneck squash and straightneck squash. Summer squash develops quickly after the vines bloom, often within 50 days. The vines are compact, maturing to between 2 and 4 feet long. Plant summer squash vine cultivars 3 to 4 feet apart, with 8 feet between rows to give the vines abundant room. Plant the seeds outdoors after the last threat of frost passes, when soil temperatures reach 65 F.
Cucumber
The vines of cucumbers, or Cucumis sativus, sprawl along the ground or grow with support, climbing as high as 6 feet. Cucumbers are not North American native vines, potentially originating in India. Cucumbers require full sunshine, fertile soil and consistent water to grow properly. Cucumbers come in varied forms, with those suitable for pickling growing to between 3 and 4 inches, while those appropriate for slicing normally between 7 and 8 inches in length. Some cucumber cultivars grow as bushes, but the vines yield more fruit.
Pumpkins
The larger types of pumpkins, Cucurbita maxima, sometimes need a prolonged growing season, making them unsuitable for some northern climates. Pumpkins are a form of squash that grows on an annual vine, with some vines being 12 feet long. Pumpkins are edible or ornamental, with varieties bred for taste or size. The seeds are edible when toasted. Pumpkins are a Central American native species. Cucumber beetles, aphids and the squash bug are some insect pests that attack pumpkin vines.
Winter Squash
South and Central America are the likely origins of winter squash, Cucurbita moschata, a type of squash harvested after growing on the vine all summer and into the fall. Winter squash comes in what Cornell University describes as a "staggering" number of cultivars. Types such as acorn, Hubbard and butternut squash are common forms of winter squash. The vines grow along the ground, some to lengths between 10 and 15 feet. Winter squash is cold sensitive; it fails to grow before the temperatures reach 65 to 70 F. Diseases, including bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew, affect winter squash vines.
Pole Beans
The vines of pole beans,Phaseolus vulgaris, sometimes grow to 10 feet high. Needing the support of long stakes or a trellis, pole beans grown in this manner produce as much as three times the amount of beans as bush beans grown in an equivalent space will. Pole beans, like most bean species, resist transplanting, making it important to start them outside where you intend them to stay. Wait until all chance of frost is gone before planting pole beans. Diseases, such as bacterial blight and leaf mold, affect pole beans, with the chance of spreading the ailments among your plants great if you work among the plants when their leaves are wet.
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