文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
How much water a tomato plant needs depends on where it is in its life cycle. Tomato plants that are actively growing, flowering and setting fruit need more water than tomato plants that are still in the seedling stage (not having flowered yet). Water effects how the fruit looks: too much and the tomato will suffer from blossom-end rot; too little and the tomato will crack (also called cat facing).
Germinating Tomato Seeds
After sowing tomato seeds, it is important to keep the seed-sowing flat evenly moist. Don't water from above, as this might cause damping off. Place the flat in a larger shallow container that's filled with water. The flat will wick water from the container into the soil. Remove the flat when the soil is moist. When the surface of the soil starts to dry out, replace the flat in the container of water. Continue to do this until the seeds start to germinate.
Seedling Tomatoes
Seedling tomatoes should also be watered from the bottom up to avoid damping off and other bacterial disease. Once the seedling tomatoes have been potted into individual containers, allow the top 1/4 inch of soil to dry out before watering. Continue to allow the top 1/4 inch of soil to dry out while hardening off your seedlings. After transplanting your seedlings into the garden, gradually increase the time between watering until the top 2 to 3 inches of soil dries out before you water again. Do not allow your seedlings to wilt. The trick to watering tomatoes is to always water under the plant, as splashing water can cause disease, and water deeply and infrequently for deeper root growth. The longer the roots, the healthier the tomato plant and the less time you will have to water as the roots will pull water (and nutrients) up from deeper layers of soil. To water deeply, apply water to the soil until it starts pooling on the soil's surface. Stop watering when it takes one to two minutes for the pooled water to be absorbed by the soil.
Flowering
Flowering tomatoes need a steady supply of moisture to prevent decreased flowering and flower drop. Allow the top 2 to 3 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. You should only have to water every second or third day. Aim to give your tomato plants 1 to 2 inches of water a week. Remember that rain counts as a watering.
Fruiting
It is critical that your tomato plants receive adequate amounts of water while they are setting fruit. Inadequate water will cause your plant to stop flowering and to drop immature fruit. Too much water will cause your tomatoes to taste watery, and the skin to crack. Your tomato plants can withstand both insects and fungal or bacterial disease better if they're watered regularly. Continue to give your plants 1 to 2 inches of water a week; however, only allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Applying mulch, whether plastic or organic, will help conserve moisture and reduce the risks of soil-borne diseases. Your tomatoes may need more water if it is particularly hot and humid. Let the soil dryness indicate when your tomatoes need to be watered.
Late Summer/Early Fall
As the season winds down and late summer turns to fall, allow the top 2 to 3 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Two to three weeks before your first frost date, stop watering your tomatoes. Remove unripened tomatoes as the plants start to die back.
Germinating Tomato Seeds
After sowing tomato seeds, it is important to keep the seed-sowing flat evenly moist. Don't water from above, as this might cause damping off. Place the flat in a larger shallow container that's filled with water. The flat will wick water from the container into the soil. Remove the flat when the soil is moist. When the surface of the soil starts to dry out, replace the flat in the container of water. Continue to do this until the seeds start to germinate.
Seedling Tomatoes
Seedling tomatoes should also be watered from the bottom up to avoid damping off and other bacterial disease. Once the seedling tomatoes have been potted into individual containers, allow the top 1/4 inch of soil to dry out before watering. Continue to allow the top 1/4 inch of soil to dry out while hardening off your seedlings. After transplanting your seedlings into the garden, gradually increase the time between watering until the top 2 to 3 inches of soil dries out before you water again. Do not allow your seedlings to wilt. The trick to watering tomatoes is to always water under the plant, as splashing water can cause disease, and water deeply and infrequently for deeper root growth. The longer the roots, the healthier the tomato plant and the less time you will have to water as the roots will pull water (and nutrients) up from deeper layers of soil. To water deeply, apply water to the soil until it starts pooling on the soil's surface. Stop watering when it takes one to two minutes for the pooled water to be absorbed by the soil.
Flowering
Flowering tomatoes need a steady supply of moisture to prevent decreased flowering and flower drop. Allow the top 2 to 3 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. You should only have to water every second or third day. Aim to give your tomato plants 1 to 2 inches of water a week. Remember that rain counts as a watering.
Fruiting
It is critical that your tomato plants receive adequate amounts of water while they are setting fruit. Inadequate water will cause your plant to stop flowering and to drop immature fruit. Too much water will cause your tomatoes to taste watery, and the skin to crack. Your tomato plants can withstand both insects and fungal or bacterial disease better if they're watered regularly. Continue to give your plants 1 to 2 inches of water a week; however, only allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Applying mulch, whether plastic or organic, will help conserve moisture and reduce the risks of soil-borne diseases. Your tomatoes may need more water if it is particularly hot and humid. Let the soil dryness indicate when your tomatoes need to be watered.
Late Summer/Early Fall
As the season winds down and late summer turns to fall, allow the top 2 to 3 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Two to three weeks before your first frost date, stop watering your tomatoes. Remove unripened tomatoes as the plants start to die back.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
An invaluable growing method for both apartment-dwellers and homeowners not blessed with fertile soil, comes to the rescue even for larger annual edibles such as tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum).
Pot Size
How large a container you'll need for your tomato plant depends on what variety you're growing. Rather than considering the size of the tomatoes it will produce, check the seedling label to see whether the plant is indeterminate -- the big, sprawling, kind -- or the more compact determinate plant. The latter often works better for container gardening, but it is possible to "contain" larger tomato plants. In general, a pot that is 24 inches or more in diameter will hold an indeterminate tomato variety, and one that is 18 inches or larger will be big enough for determinate types.
Container Material
If you will be needing to move your tomatoes to keep them in the sun, or to position them for watering, avoid whisky barrels, as well as other heavy materials such as ceramic and terra cotta. Instead, look for plastic and fiberglass pots, which are lightweight -- or consider re-purposing a 5-gallon bucket. Whatever you choose, make sure it either comes with drainage holes, or has a surface that can be punctured with a drill, or a hammer and nail, to create holes.
Planting Medium
You may be able to find a pre-blended potting mix which is geared to growing tomatoes. Look for one that mentions tomatoes on its package, and which includes slow-release fertilizers and water-holding gels, as well as premium blend such as perlite, compost, peat moss, vermiculite and sand.
Alternatively, create your own mix by blending equal parts compost, potting soil, perlite and sphagnum peat moss. You might also choose to add about 1 cup dolomitic limestone for every 40 pounds of potting soil, along with 1/2 cup each of a prepared trace element mix, as well as powdered iron.
Make sure whatever blend you choose is thoroughly mixed before it goes in the container.
Potting Up
Step 1
Strip your tomato seedling of its lower leaves by pinching them off near the stem. This is the best way to encourage a strong stem and root system as the plant grows.
Step 2
Fill the pot about two-thirds full of your potting mix. If the drainage holes in your container are large ones, you can cut screening to size and place it at the bottom, before pouring in the soil. This will keep the soil from washing away after rainfall or watering.
Step 3
Place your tomato plant in the center of the container, and bury the stem up to its upper leaves. The bushy nature of tomato plants often means that only one will fit per container. The exception to this rule comes when you have a whiskey barrel or other large pot, as well as a few "tumbler" or other small varieties. Two or three of these can go in at a spacing of about 24 inches apart, or as noted on the nursery tag.
Step 4
Gently insert a tomato cage around the inside edges of the pot, or set a sturdy stake a few inches behind the plant. Setting up the support system at planting time means that you won't damage expanding roots later on.
Care
Tomatoes are , so place your pots where they will receive at least six hours of sun.
Container soil is notorious for drying out more quickly than that of traditional garden beds, especially when in clay pots. If the soil feels dry when you poke your finger into the first 1 or 2 inches, run a hose or watering can over the soil until water runs out the drainage holes. You may need to water daily during dry, hot weather.
About halfway through the growing season, begin supplementing the slow-release fertilizer in your potting mix with a water-soluble solution made for tomatoes. Typically, you'll mix about 1 ounce of the concentrate per 1 gallon of water, then water the tomato plant with it, leaves and all, but always check your tomato food's label. Nourish the tomato plant with this mix every two weeks, or as suggested on your fertilizer's package.
Pot Size
How large a container you'll need for your tomato plant depends on what variety you're growing. Rather than considering the size of the tomatoes it will produce, check the seedling label to see whether the plant is indeterminate -- the big, sprawling, kind -- or the more compact determinate plant. The latter often works better for container gardening, but it is possible to "contain" larger tomato plants. In general, a pot that is 24 inches or more in diameter will hold an indeterminate tomato variety, and one that is 18 inches or larger will be big enough for determinate types.
Container Material
If you will be needing to move your tomatoes to keep them in the sun, or to position them for watering, avoid whisky barrels, as well as other heavy materials such as ceramic and terra cotta. Instead, look for plastic and fiberglass pots, which are lightweight -- or consider re-purposing a 5-gallon bucket. Whatever you choose, make sure it either comes with drainage holes, or has a surface that can be punctured with a drill, or a hammer and nail, to create holes.
Planting Medium
You may be able to find a pre-blended potting mix which is geared to growing tomatoes. Look for one that mentions tomatoes on its package, and which includes slow-release fertilizers and water-holding gels, as well as premium blend such as perlite, compost, peat moss, vermiculite and sand.
Alternatively, create your own mix by blending equal parts compost, potting soil, perlite and sphagnum peat moss. You might also choose to add about 1 cup dolomitic limestone for every 40 pounds of potting soil, along with 1/2 cup each of a prepared trace element mix, as well as powdered iron.
Make sure whatever blend you choose is thoroughly mixed before it goes in the container.
Potting Up
Step 1
Strip your tomato seedling of its lower leaves by pinching them off near the stem. This is the best way to encourage a strong stem and root system as the plant grows.
Step 2
Fill the pot about two-thirds full of your potting mix. If the drainage holes in your container are large ones, you can cut screening to size and place it at the bottom, before pouring in the soil. This will keep the soil from washing away after rainfall or watering.
Step 3
Place your tomato plant in the center of the container, and bury the stem up to its upper leaves. The bushy nature of tomato plants often means that only one will fit per container. The exception to this rule comes when you have a whiskey barrel or other large pot, as well as a few "tumbler" or other small varieties. Two or three of these can go in at a spacing of about 24 inches apart, or as noted on the nursery tag.
Step 4
Gently insert a tomato cage around the inside edges of the pot, or set a sturdy stake a few inches behind the plant. Setting up the support system at planting time means that you won't damage expanding roots later on.
Care
Tomatoes are , so place your pots where they will receive at least six hours of sun.
Container soil is notorious for drying out more quickly than that of traditional garden beds, especially when in clay pots. If the soil feels dry when you poke your finger into the first 1 or 2 inches, run a hose or watering can over the soil until water runs out the drainage holes. You may need to water daily during dry, hot weather.
About halfway through the growing season, begin supplementing the slow-release fertilizer in your potting mix with a water-soluble solution made for tomatoes. Typically, you'll mix about 1 ounce of the concentrate per 1 gallon of water, then water the tomato plant with it, leaves and all, but always check your tomato food's label. Nourish the tomato plant with this mix every two weeks, or as suggested on your fertilizer's package.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Tomatoes from your own plant taste so much better than anything you purchase at a grocery store. You do not need to have a garden, or even a plot of land, to grow a tomato plant. You can even grow tomatoes on your screened porch.
Growing Tomatoes in Containers
Growing tomato plants in containers that have drainage holes is often better than growing them in the ground. That is because you can make sure of the quality of the soil, the level of watering required and can monitor and eliminate pests.
Screened porches can be an ideal location for your tomato plants, particularly if you live in a region that gets intense heat during the summer, which tomatoes do not tolerate well. One of the most important considerations when contemplating growing your tomatoes on a screened porch is the amount and quality of sunlight the area receives. Tomatoes need at least six hours of sun per day. If your screened porch is on the shady side of your home or has wide, overhanging eaves that prevent sunlight from entering any part of your porch, your tomato plants will not flourish. The opposite is also true if your screened in porch receives too much hot, intense sunlight, such as at midday. Your tomatoes may wilt or become sunburned. In this case, you may need to partially shade your porch where your tomato plants will grow.
Another consideration deals with pollination so your plant will produce tomatoes. Tomato plants do not need bees and such to pollinate; each plant has both male and female flowers. But the plant does require that there is at least slight breezes or air movement to allow the pollen to travel from one flower to the other. If you are lacking in breezes, you can always gently shake your plants every day or so to simulate this.
Selecting the right variety of tomato can help in growing tomatoes successfully on your screened porch. The preferred type is called a patio tomato because they have been formulated to grow in containers and produce an abundance of fruit. But other varieties can also successfully be grown on your porch. From cherry tomatoes to the beefsteak variety, many types can be grown in containers. Visit your local garden center, describe your location, particularly the light, and what you want to use the tomatoes for, to a salesperson and let her assist you in selecting the right plants.
Growing Tomatoes in Containers
Growing tomato plants in containers that have drainage holes is often better than growing them in the ground. That is because you can make sure of the quality of the soil, the level of watering required and can monitor and eliminate pests.
Screened porches can be an ideal location for your tomato plants, particularly if you live in a region that gets intense heat during the summer, which tomatoes do not tolerate well. One of the most important considerations when contemplating growing your tomatoes on a screened porch is the amount and quality of sunlight the area receives. Tomatoes need at least six hours of sun per day. If your screened porch is on the shady side of your home or has wide, overhanging eaves that prevent sunlight from entering any part of your porch, your tomato plants will not flourish. The opposite is also true if your screened in porch receives too much hot, intense sunlight, such as at midday. Your tomatoes may wilt or become sunburned. In this case, you may need to partially shade your porch where your tomato plants will grow.
Another consideration deals with pollination so your plant will produce tomatoes. Tomato plants do not need bees and such to pollinate; each plant has both male and female flowers. But the plant does require that there is at least slight breezes or air movement to allow the pollen to travel from one flower to the other. If you are lacking in breezes, you can always gently shake your plants every day or so to simulate this.
Selecting the right variety of tomato can help in growing tomatoes successfully on your screened porch. The preferred type is called a patio tomato because they have been formulated to grow in containers and produce an abundance of fruit. But other varieties can also successfully be grown on your porch. From cherry tomatoes to the beefsteak variety, many types can be grown in containers. Visit your local garden center, describe your location, particularly the light, and what you want to use the tomatoes for, to a salesperson and let her assist you in selecting the right plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月21日
Corn is known for growing into over-sized stalks that tower above peoples' heads, so finding corn that is stunted and short can be disheartening to a grower. A few environmental factors can explain corn stalks that won't grow tall, but it's not the end of the world when it comes to harvest. You may still reap a hefty amount of grain from short corn.
Temperature
Corn grows by expanding its internode cells during its late growth stage when it does much of its stretching. The stalk elongates as the internodes grow. While shading can boost this growth, cool temperatures may slow it down by effecting cellular rigidity, stunting the plant's height and foliage for the rest of the season. Fortunately, leaf size at this point will not affect grain size. The new leaves that are emerging at the top of the plant will contribute to grain size, and these will continue to grow if conditions permit. But continued cool weather may slow down leaf development, resulting in fewer leaves and limiting corn's growth.
Soil
Soil compaction can create over-saturated conditions and stunt corn plant growth. Compacted soil restricts root development and disturbs its growth, forcing it into lateral branching. Plants in overly watered soil can also exhibit development and growth issues and appear stunted. Another possible soil problem is nitrogen deficiency. Corn demands a lot of nitrogen. Adding a nitrogen fertilizer to soil to replenish this nutrient may help corn that appears shorter than expected.
Yield
Unless your short corn plants are nutrient-deficient or suffering from excess moisture, short corn stalks should not alter yield amount. As long as the growth problem is related to shorter internodes, it will not affect grain size. Remember that some corn varieties are early hybrids that are ultimately shorter and have smaller yields than full season types.
Growing Corn
Corn is a heavy feeder that loves nitrogen, so it needs well-tilled and fertile soil. The plant prefers soil temperatures of at least 65 to 75 F and night temperatures above 60 F. To protect against cold and frost, install a fabric floating row cover with hoops supporting it. Avoid planting corn in overly moist soil because it can damage and stunt the crop. Planting corn too early or late in the year may reduce the corn's height and yield. The type of hybrid planted plays a large role in growth rate and stalk height as well.
Temperature
Corn grows by expanding its internode cells during its late growth stage when it does much of its stretching. The stalk elongates as the internodes grow. While shading can boost this growth, cool temperatures may slow it down by effecting cellular rigidity, stunting the plant's height and foliage for the rest of the season. Fortunately, leaf size at this point will not affect grain size. The new leaves that are emerging at the top of the plant will contribute to grain size, and these will continue to grow if conditions permit. But continued cool weather may slow down leaf development, resulting in fewer leaves and limiting corn's growth.
Soil
Soil compaction can create over-saturated conditions and stunt corn plant growth. Compacted soil restricts root development and disturbs its growth, forcing it into lateral branching. Plants in overly watered soil can also exhibit development and growth issues and appear stunted. Another possible soil problem is nitrogen deficiency. Corn demands a lot of nitrogen. Adding a nitrogen fertilizer to soil to replenish this nutrient may help corn that appears shorter than expected.
Yield
Unless your short corn plants are nutrient-deficient or suffering from excess moisture, short corn stalks should not alter yield amount. As long as the growth problem is related to shorter internodes, it will not affect grain size. Remember that some corn varieties are early hybrids that are ultimately shorter and have smaller yields than full season types.
Growing Corn
Corn is a heavy feeder that loves nitrogen, so it needs well-tilled and fertile soil. The plant prefers soil temperatures of at least 65 to 75 F and night temperatures above 60 F. To protect against cold and frost, install a fabric floating row cover with hoops supporting it. Avoid planting corn in overly moist soil because it can damage and stunt the crop. Planting corn too early or late in the year may reduce the corn's height and yield. The type of hybrid planted plays a large role in growth rate and stalk height as well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Rosemary is an aromatic evergreen herb used in cooking and scented cosmetic products. If you are already growing rosemary, you can start several new plants from your mother plant. The easiest way to regrow rosemary is by pruning and rooting cuttings.
Step 1
Fill a small planter with soil or a mix of soil and sand or vermiculite. You can also plant several cuttings together in one large planter, rather than rooting single stems in individual planters.
Step 2
Cut a soft stem just below a leaf or pair of leaves with a sharp knife or cutting shears. Choose a cutting no less than 3 inches – but up to 8 inches – from the tip.
Step 3
Strip the leaves from the bottom of the stem so the portion of the stem that will be planted is free of leaves.
Step 4
Dip the end of the stem in hormone rooting powder, if desired. Rooting powder is available in gardening supply stores and fortifies cuttings, but it is not necessary when rooting rosemary.
Step 5
Push the cutting into the soil and water it. Cover the plant with a plastic bag and leave it in a warm, sunny spot for about three weeks. Check roots by gently inverting the planter into your hand to see the underside of the soil.
Step 1
Fill a small planter with soil or a mix of soil and sand or vermiculite. You can also plant several cuttings together in one large planter, rather than rooting single stems in individual planters.
Step 2
Cut a soft stem just below a leaf or pair of leaves with a sharp knife or cutting shears. Choose a cutting no less than 3 inches – but up to 8 inches – from the tip.
Step 3
Strip the leaves from the bottom of the stem so the portion of the stem that will be planted is free of leaves.
Step 4
Dip the end of the stem in hormone rooting powder, if desired. Rooting powder is available in gardening supply stores and fortifies cuttings, but it is not necessary when rooting rosemary.
Step 5
Push the cutting into the soil and water it. Cover the plant with a plastic bag and leave it in a warm, sunny spot for about three weeks. Check roots by gently inverting the planter into your hand to see the underside of the soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
If you're interested in growing herbs, consider adding rosemary (Rosmarinus officianalis) to your list. Its delicate foliage is an attractive grayish-green and the plant fills the environment with its herbal aroma. Rosemary is generally easy to grow, but it might develop some problems if it's not given correct conditions or develops disease or pest problems. Catching these problems early can be essential to keep a rosemary plant in tip-top shape.
Not Enough Water
Rosemary grows outdoors year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also makes a good potted houseplant. Native to rocky and sandy Mediterranean regions, it requires excellent drainage to thrive. The plant only needs a modest amount of water and tolerates drought well once established. But like any plant, insufficient water can cause its foliage to wilt; if this happens, test the soil with your fingertip and, if it's dry several inches deep, water the plant well.
If you've caught the problem in time, the plant should revive and be undamaged. In future, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to your fingertip.
Over-Watering and Fungus
A wilting rosemary plant can also indicate over-watering, a situation that tends to promote root rot. If the problem's not corrected, roots become slimy and soft, and stems wilt and eventually die back. Overly wet conditions can promote other fungal problems, such as powdery mildew, a disorder that causes fluffy white fungus to grow on stems and foliage; eventually, these plant parts dry up and die. In either case, trim away damaged parts of the plant, using shears to cut into healthy tissue below the damaged areas. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading disease.
If the plant's soil is wet and soggy, and some roots are affected, remove the plant from the soil, trim off damaged roots and replant the rosemary in fresh soil. You can also dust cut roots and stems with cinnamon, a natural fungicide, to help the plant recover. If all the plant's roots are affected, the problem probably can't be corrected and it's best to discard the plant.
Pest Problems
A rosemary plant can also attract several types of pests. These include aphids, which are soft-bodied greenish pests, and spittlebugs which leave a white, frothy liquid on the plant. Whiteflies, which are tiny whitish flying insects, might also appear. You might also see evidence of spider mites, microscopic pests that leave visible webs covering young leaves and stems. All these pests suck plant juices, causing foliage to wilt, dry up and eventually drop from the plant.
Control a minor infestation by washing them off the plant with a strong stream of water. If an infestation becomes severe, spray the rosemary plant with insecticidal soap until it's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray every week or two, as needed.
Preventing Problems
Planting rosemary in the garden in a spot that gets full sun and has excellent drainage helps prevent problems with fungus. Rosemary can spread to reach a width of 2 to 4 feet, so space multiple plants at least 2 feet apart to ensure good air circulation, which also helps prevent fungal growth. If your soil contains clay and tends to drain slowly, add some coarse sand at planting to improve its drainage, or plant rosemary in a raised bed.
If you grow rosemary indoors as a houseplant ensure the container has a drainage hole, keep it well-spaced from other plants and always let the plant drain well after watering; never let its pot sit in a water-filled saucer.
Whether indoors or in the garden, check plants often for pest problems, because these are best controlled when caught early, before damage is severe.
Not Enough Water
Rosemary grows outdoors year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also makes a good potted houseplant. Native to rocky and sandy Mediterranean regions, it requires excellent drainage to thrive. The plant only needs a modest amount of water and tolerates drought well once established. But like any plant, insufficient water can cause its foliage to wilt; if this happens, test the soil with your fingertip and, if it's dry several inches deep, water the plant well.
If you've caught the problem in time, the plant should revive and be undamaged. In future, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to your fingertip.
Over-Watering and Fungus
A wilting rosemary plant can also indicate over-watering, a situation that tends to promote root rot. If the problem's not corrected, roots become slimy and soft, and stems wilt and eventually die back. Overly wet conditions can promote other fungal problems, such as powdery mildew, a disorder that causes fluffy white fungus to grow on stems and foliage; eventually, these plant parts dry up and die. In either case, trim away damaged parts of the plant, using shears to cut into healthy tissue below the damaged areas. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading disease.
If the plant's soil is wet and soggy, and some roots are affected, remove the plant from the soil, trim off damaged roots and replant the rosemary in fresh soil. You can also dust cut roots and stems with cinnamon, a natural fungicide, to help the plant recover. If all the plant's roots are affected, the problem probably can't be corrected and it's best to discard the plant.
Pest Problems
A rosemary plant can also attract several types of pests. These include aphids, which are soft-bodied greenish pests, and spittlebugs which leave a white, frothy liquid on the plant. Whiteflies, which are tiny whitish flying insects, might also appear. You might also see evidence of spider mites, microscopic pests that leave visible webs covering young leaves and stems. All these pests suck plant juices, causing foliage to wilt, dry up and eventually drop from the plant.
Control a minor infestation by washing them off the plant with a strong stream of water. If an infestation becomes severe, spray the rosemary plant with insecticidal soap until it's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray every week or two, as needed.
Preventing Problems
Planting rosemary in the garden in a spot that gets full sun and has excellent drainage helps prevent problems with fungus. Rosemary can spread to reach a width of 2 to 4 feet, so space multiple plants at least 2 feet apart to ensure good air circulation, which also helps prevent fungal growth. If your soil contains clay and tends to drain slowly, add some coarse sand at planting to improve its drainage, or plant rosemary in a raised bed.
If you grow rosemary indoors as a houseplant ensure the container has a drainage hole, keep it well-spaced from other plants and always let the plant drain well after watering; never let its pot sit in a water-filled saucer.
Whether indoors or in the garden, check plants often for pest problems, because these are best controlled when caught early, before damage is severe.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月17日
Tomatoes are thriving, vining plants when it's warm and sunny outside. In the spring, when it's still a bit cool, they require some protection. Spring is, however, the best time for planting tomatoes, as it gives the plants a long growing season for their fruit harvest.
Planting
University of Missouri Extension suggests setting tomatoes out in the home garden as early as possible in the spring, to give the plants time to grow and fruit before fall comes. The Extension suggests planting as soon as the last frost is gone, when soil warms enough for easy working.
Day
The Tomato Gardening Guru website advises that cool, cloudy days are best for transplanting tomatoes into the home garden. Gardeners should plant in the morning, to keep tomatoes from drying or suffering during the process.
Preparation
Any planting should start with adequate preparation, to keep the transplant process quick and easy. Tomatoes require a site that gets full sun all day and quick drainage. Gardeners should mix a combination of half quick-draining soil and half organic compost, with an addition of starter fertilizer, into the soil a day or two before the transplant.
Planting
University of Missouri Extension suggests setting tomatoes out in the home garden as early as possible in the spring, to give the plants time to grow and fruit before fall comes. The Extension suggests planting as soon as the last frost is gone, when soil warms enough for easy working.
Day
The Tomato Gardening Guru website advises that cool, cloudy days are best for transplanting tomatoes into the home garden. Gardeners should plant in the morning, to keep tomatoes from drying or suffering during the process.
Preparation
Any planting should start with adequate preparation, to keep the transplant process quick and easy. Tomatoes require a site that gets full sun all day and quick drainage. Gardeners should mix a combination of half quick-draining soil and half organic compost, with an addition of starter fertilizer, into the soil a day or two before the transplant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
Growing strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) requires some care, but the freshly picked, sweet, juicy fruits are worth the effort. Strawberries grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and in USDA zones 9 and 10 they're usually grown as cool-season, annual plants. Three kinds of are available: June-bearing, everlasting and day neutral. June-bearing strawberries fruit in early summer, everlasting varieties fruit in spring, summer and fall, and day neutral varieties bear fruit throughout the growing season. All three types grow best in full-sun sites and well-drained soils.
Soil, Light and Spacing
For the largest crop of fruits, grow strawberry plants in soil rich in organic matter and in a site that receives at least six hours of direct light per day. Space June-bearing strawberries 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 4 feet apart, and space everlasting and day neutral varieties 1 foot apart in a bed of two or three rows spaced 1 foot apart. June-bearing strawberries produce shoots called runners that root and grow into new plants on either side of their rows, creating strawberry beds 2 feet wide. Everlasting and day neutral strawberry plants produce few runners and these are removed, so they grow as single plants.
Water and Fertilizer
Moist growing sites and fertilizer encourage strawberries to grow healthily. Strawberries need about 1 inch of water each week when the weather is dry during the growing season. Apply the water to the base of the plants, avoiding the leaves. Over-fertilizing strawberries causes excessive leafy growth at the expense of fruit, but plants benefit from an annual fertilizer application after harvest. Dilute 2 tablespoons of a 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and pour 1 to 2 cups of the solution at the base of each strawberry plant.
Mulch for Strawberries
Strawberries benefit from mulching, which suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and protects plants from frost. Remove weeds from around strawberry plants, and spread a 2-inch layer of an organic mulch such as garden compost or leaf mold, avoiding the plant stems. In areas where fall below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, spread a 3- to 4-inch layer of straw over plants in late fall. In spring, when young, yellow foliage appears, pull mulch away from the plants but replace it when frosts are predicted. Straw mulches can also be spread beneath developing fruit to keep it off the ground.
Strawberry Pruning
General care for strawberries includes pruning blossoms and runners. Pinch the blossoms off June-bearing strawberries in their first season to encourage the plants to develop strong root systems and bear a large crop the following year. Pinch the blossoms off everlasting and day neutral types until early July, which helps the plants establish before putting energy into growing fruit. Prune the runners from everlasting and day neutral plants whenever they appear. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol over the blades, and cut the runners where they join the rest of the plant. Sterilize the shears again when you've finished.
Strawberry Renovation
June-bearing strawberries growing as perennials provide crops for three or four years with annual renovation. After harvest, mow the strawberry beds to remove the old foliage. Set the mower blades to 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the ground. Rake off the leaves, and narrow the beds to 6 to 12 inches wide by digging out plants on both sides, and remove all weeds. Fertilize the strawberry plants with a granular or powder 10-10-10 fertilizer spread at a rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet, and mix the fertilizer lightly into the soil surface. Water the renovated patch for the rest of the growing season, applying 1 inch of water per week during dry weather.
Soil, Light and Spacing
For the largest crop of fruits, grow strawberry plants in soil rich in organic matter and in a site that receives at least six hours of direct light per day. Space June-bearing strawberries 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 4 feet apart, and space everlasting and day neutral varieties 1 foot apart in a bed of two or three rows spaced 1 foot apart. June-bearing strawberries produce shoots called runners that root and grow into new plants on either side of their rows, creating strawberry beds 2 feet wide. Everlasting and day neutral strawberry plants produce few runners and these are removed, so they grow as single plants.
Water and Fertilizer
Moist growing sites and fertilizer encourage strawberries to grow healthily. Strawberries need about 1 inch of water each week when the weather is dry during the growing season. Apply the water to the base of the plants, avoiding the leaves. Over-fertilizing strawberries causes excessive leafy growth at the expense of fruit, but plants benefit from an annual fertilizer application after harvest. Dilute 2 tablespoons of a 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and pour 1 to 2 cups of the solution at the base of each strawberry plant.
Mulch for Strawberries
Strawberries benefit from mulching, which suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and protects plants from frost. Remove weeds from around strawberry plants, and spread a 2-inch layer of an organic mulch such as garden compost or leaf mold, avoiding the plant stems. In areas where fall below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, spread a 3- to 4-inch layer of straw over plants in late fall. In spring, when young, yellow foliage appears, pull mulch away from the plants but replace it when frosts are predicted. Straw mulches can also be spread beneath developing fruit to keep it off the ground.
Strawberry Pruning
General care for strawberries includes pruning blossoms and runners. Pinch the blossoms off June-bearing strawberries in their first season to encourage the plants to develop strong root systems and bear a large crop the following year. Pinch the blossoms off everlasting and day neutral types until early July, which helps the plants establish before putting energy into growing fruit. Prune the runners from everlasting and day neutral plants whenever they appear. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol over the blades, and cut the runners where they join the rest of the plant. Sterilize the shears again when you've finished.
Strawberry Renovation
June-bearing strawberries growing as perennials provide crops for three or four years with annual renovation. After harvest, mow the strawberry beds to remove the old foliage. Set the mower blades to 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the ground. Rake off the leaves, and narrow the beds to 6 to 12 inches wide by digging out plants on both sides, and remove all weeds. Fertilize the strawberry plants with a granular or powder 10-10-10 fertilizer spread at a rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet, and mix the fertilizer lightly into the soil surface. Water the renovated patch for the rest of the growing season, applying 1 inch of water per week during dry weather.
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成长记
Llamadrama
2017年11月16日
Lost some leaves but hoping they'll grow back in. There are some babies growing under the leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月14日
If you live in Tennessee, and would like to plant strawberries, it is important to consider your growing conditions. Strawberries require full sun and well-drained soil in order to thrive. A variety of diseases affect Tennessee strawberries--verticillium wilt, leaf spot, anthracnose, leaf scorch and leaf blight just to name a few. A few strawberry cultivars, such as Allstar and Earliglow, grow well in Tennessee and show resistance to such diseases.
Step 1
Check the pH of your soil using a testing kit from a nursery. Strawberries thrive in soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. You will need to amend your Tennessee soil if the pH is higher or lower.
Step 2
Loosen the soil with a pitchfork and remove any large sticks, stones or debris. Amend the soil if necessary using lime for a pH below 5.5 or peat moss for a pH that measures above 6.5. Follow the packaging instructions for allocation amounts and application methods.
Step 3
Plant the strawberry plants after the final winter thaw, which is usually around mid to late April in Tennessee. Dig holes that match the size of the nursery containers holding the strawberries, each hole spaced 2 feet from the next. Space rows 4 feet apart.
Step 4
Set one strawberry seedling in the center of each hole. Backfill the holes around the strawberry seedlings, patting the soil afterward to remove air pockets. Water the strawberries deeply using a soaker hose after planting.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist throughout the growing season, to a depth of 1 inch. Tennessee sees a yearly rainfall total of 53 inches, which is plenty of rain to sustain crops. However, weekly supplemental waterings are necessary in lieu of rain.
Step 6
Fertilize the strawberry plants approximately one month after planting in the Tennessee soil. Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer according to manufacturer's directions. Tennessee strawberries appreciate a dose of fertilizer in the early spring and after harvesting.
Step 7
Control weeds around the strawberry plants with a layer of mulch. A 3-inch layer of bark chips will also improve drainage and protect the roots of the strawberry plants from the Tennessee temperature changes.
Step 1
Check the pH of your soil using a testing kit from a nursery. Strawberries thrive in soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. You will need to amend your Tennessee soil if the pH is higher or lower.
Step 2
Loosen the soil with a pitchfork and remove any large sticks, stones or debris. Amend the soil if necessary using lime for a pH below 5.5 or peat moss for a pH that measures above 6.5. Follow the packaging instructions for allocation amounts and application methods.
Step 3
Plant the strawberry plants after the final winter thaw, which is usually around mid to late April in Tennessee. Dig holes that match the size of the nursery containers holding the strawberries, each hole spaced 2 feet from the next. Space rows 4 feet apart.
Step 4
Set one strawberry seedling in the center of each hole. Backfill the holes around the strawberry seedlings, patting the soil afterward to remove air pockets. Water the strawberries deeply using a soaker hose after planting.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist throughout the growing season, to a depth of 1 inch. Tennessee sees a yearly rainfall total of 53 inches, which is plenty of rain to sustain crops. However, weekly supplemental waterings are necessary in lieu of rain.
Step 6
Fertilize the strawberry plants approximately one month after planting in the Tennessee soil. Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer according to manufacturer's directions. Tennessee strawberries appreciate a dose of fertilizer in the early spring and after harvesting.
Step 7
Control weeds around the strawberry plants with a layer of mulch. A 3-inch layer of bark chips will also improve drainage and protect the roots of the strawberry plants from the Tennessee temperature changes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
When deciding a new plant to grow in Georgia, a blueberry bush is a GREAT choice. The are easy to maintain, don't have thorns and won't spread like crazy growing all over the place.
Recently, doctors have started saying that blueberries are among the top most beneficial fruits to feed your body. It's no wonder, considering they yield the highest antioxidant capacity of all fresh fruit, neutralize free radicals and aid in reducing belly fat. Not to mention they help promote urinary tract health, brain health, help to fight heart disease and help relieve constipation and digestion. Some doctors even suspect they are linked with reversing cancer!
If you live in Georgia, you are exceptionally lucky as you live in the perfect climate for growing blueberries. It's in the south so it makes growing them much easier as the summers are long and hot and there is usually very little cold. It's the perfect climate to grow blue berries, in Georgia!
So how do you do it? The following three simple steps will show you.
Step 1
Choose the right variety of blueberry bush! Get the rabbiteye blueberry bushes as they are best for the climate in the south. If you want to grow blueberries in Georgia, it is critical you choose the rabbiteye variety for the most success. There are three different varieties of blueberries, such as highbush, lowbush and rabbiteye. The highbush and lowbush are more geared toward climates other than the kind in Georgia, so you will want to steer away from them.
Rabbiteye blue berries require more heat which makes them perfect for growing in Georgia. Another reason you will want to plant rabbiteye blueberry bushes is because they tend to grow the biggest at a whopping 10 feet high! That means more blueberries for your money and more bang for your buck.
Where do you get rabbiteye blueberry bushes? Most local nurseries in Georgia carry them, but if you have any trouble finding them you can always order them online for fairly cheap.
When you buy them, try to get plants that 2 years old as it will drastically speed up the production of blueberries.
Step 2
Plant them correctly. They are self fertile, but for the best results plant them near two other varieties to create cross pollination.
For the best development possible of rabbiteye blueberries bushes, plant them in the absolute sunniest place possible and in a region where they won't be crippled by late spring frosts.
Make sure you plant them in an acidic soil of anywhere between 4.5 pH and 4.8 pH, as this is what they will need to grow and meet their full potential. Most soils aren't this acidic, naturally, so be sure to do a bit of soil testing to make sure you select the most acidic and fertile spot.
You can buy home soil test kits either at the nursery where you buy the plant. If you can't find them in your local nursery, feel free to order your soil test kit online as well. If the soil in the area has too high of a pH balance, be sure to acidify it with Mir-Acid. You can buy Mir-Acid at just about any nursery nationwide.
To make the soil more fertile for the growth of your blueberries, be sure to add compost to the soil.
Once you make sure the soil is both fertile and of the right acidity, begin to plant your blueberry bushes by spacing them approximately four feet away from each other.
Be sure to plant the blueberry bushes so that their bloom periods overlap. For example, you want to have one mid season and one getting ready to start it's bloom period. This will ensure you will have blue berries year round.
I recommended applying a wood chip mulch around your blueberry plant to discourage the growth of weeds.
Step 3
Maintain them correctly. There are quite a few important things you need to do to make sure that your blueberries production is maintained. One of these things is to test the pH balance of the soil annually to make sure that it hasn't changed. After your blueberry bushes have been in production for a few years, you will want to prune them to open the way for new growth.
You'll need a good strategy to keep the birds away, unless you don't mind having the birds raid your plants. If you don't want to share the blueberries with the birds, then you're going to want to cover the bushes with a net.
To determine when the berries are ripe and ready for eating, hold your hand beneath each clump and gently brush them with your fingers. Any berries that are ready to be eaten will easily fall into your hand. Enjoy!
Recently, doctors have started saying that blueberries are among the top most beneficial fruits to feed your body. It's no wonder, considering they yield the highest antioxidant capacity of all fresh fruit, neutralize free radicals and aid in reducing belly fat. Not to mention they help promote urinary tract health, brain health, help to fight heart disease and help relieve constipation and digestion. Some doctors even suspect they are linked with reversing cancer!
If you live in Georgia, you are exceptionally lucky as you live in the perfect climate for growing blueberries. It's in the south so it makes growing them much easier as the summers are long and hot and there is usually very little cold. It's the perfect climate to grow blue berries, in Georgia!
So how do you do it? The following three simple steps will show you.
Step 1
Choose the right variety of blueberry bush! Get the rabbiteye blueberry bushes as they are best for the climate in the south. If you want to grow blueberries in Georgia, it is critical you choose the rabbiteye variety for the most success. There are three different varieties of blueberries, such as highbush, lowbush and rabbiteye. The highbush and lowbush are more geared toward climates other than the kind in Georgia, so you will want to steer away from them.
Rabbiteye blue berries require more heat which makes them perfect for growing in Georgia. Another reason you will want to plant rabbiteye blueberry bushes is because they tend to grow the biggest at a whopping 10 feet high! That means more blueberries for your money and more bang for your buck.
Where do you get rabbiteye blueberry bushes? Most local nurseries in Georgia carry them, but if you have any trouble finding them you can always order them online for fairly cheap.
When you buy them, try to get plants that 2 years old as it will drastically speed up the production of blueberries.
Step 2
Plant them correctly. They are self fertile, but for the best results plant them near two other varieties to create cross pollination.
For the best development possible of rabbiteye blueberries bushes, plant them in the absolute sunniest place possible and in a region where they won't be crippled by late spring frosts.
Make sure you plant them in an acidic soil of anywhere between 4.5 pH and 4.8 pH, as this is what they will need to grow and meet their full potential. Most soils aren't this acidic, naturally, so be sure to do a bit of soil testing to make sure you select the most acidic and fertile spot.
You can buy home soil test kits either at the nursery where you buy the plant. If you can't find them in your local nursery, feel free to order your soil test kit online as well. If the soil in the area has too high of a pH balance, be sure to acidify it with Mir-Acid. You can buy Mir-Acid at just about any nursery nationwide.
To make the soil more fertile for the growth of your blueberries, be sure to add compost to the soil.
Once you make sure the soil is both fertile and of the right acidity, begin to plant your blueberry bushes by spacing them approximately four feet away from each other.
Be sure to plant the blueberry bushes so that their bloom periods overlap. For example, you want to have one mid season and one getting ready to start it's bloom period. This will ensure you will have blue berries year round.
I recommended applying a wood chip mulch around your blueberry plant to discourage the growth of weeds.
Step 3
Maintain them correctly. There are quite a few important things you need to do to make sure that your blueberries production is maintained. One of these things is to test the pH balance of the soil annually to make sure that it hasn't changed. After your blueberry bushes have been in production for a few years, you will want to prune them to open the way for new growth.
You'll need a good strategy to keep the birds away, unless you don't mind having the birds raid your plants. If you don't want to share the blueberries with the birds, then you're going to want to cover the bushes with a net.
To determine when the berries are ripe and ready for eating, hold your hand beneath each clump and gently brush them with your fingers. Any berries that are ready to be eaten will easily fall into your hand. Enjoy!
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
Blueberry plants are simple fruits to for almost anyone to grow. They grow in a variety of regions and will regrow year after year. A single blueberry plant can produce up to eight bushels of blueberries in a single growing season. Blueberries grow best in areas with acidic soil, so if your region has an abundance of acidity, you are in an even more ideal position to grow blueberries at home.
Step 1
Wait until the threat of frost subsides in the early spring to plant blueberry bushes.
Step 2
Plan blueberry bush plantings in a location that receives at least four to five hours of sunlight per day.
Step 3
Dig a space measuring 4 feet wide by 2 feet deep in which to grow each blueberry plant. Space the blueberry plants 6 feet apart since full grown plants will bush out quite a bit.
Step 4
Pour a thick layer of peat moss into the bottom of the hole and then insert the blueberry bush on top of it. Use your hands to pack the soil around the base of the blueberry plant to completely cover the roots.
Step 5
Trim away the lower branches of the blueberry plant to prevent them touching the ground.
Step 6
Apply fertilizer to the blueberry plant after it has been planted for several months. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer and spread it in a 12-inch diameter around the base of the blueberry plant.
Step 7
Water the blueberry plants at least twice per week and more during periods of drought.
Step 1
Wait until the threat of frost subsides in the early spring to plant blueberry bushes.
Step 2
Plan blueberry bush plantings in a location that receives at least four to five hours of sunlight per day.
Step 3
Dig a space measuring 4 feet wide by 2 feet deep in which to grow each blueberry plant. Space the blueberry plants 6 feet apart since full grown plants will bush out quite a bit.
Step 4
Pour a thick layer of peat moss into the bottom of the hole and then insert the blueberry bush on top of it. Use your hands to pack the soil around the base of the blueberry plant to completely cover the roots.
Step 5
Trim away the lower branches of the blueberry plant to prevent them touching the ground.
Step 6
Apply fertilizer to the blueberry plant after it has been planted for several months. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer and spread it in a 12-inch diameter around the base of the blueberry plant.
Step 7
Water the blueberry plants at least twice per week and more during periods of drought.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
There are good reasons gardeners typically choose to grow blueberries from cuttings or nursery shrubs -- they take less time to produce blueberries and reproduce their parents' traits accurately. For the patient gardener, though, growing blueberry shrubs from seed can be an adventure with surprising results. Choose the right type of blueberry and give it enough sun and acidic soil and you might find your name on a new variety.
Blueberry Basics
Match the type of blueberry you plant to the conditions in your garden. Wild lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7 and plants demand between 1,000 and 1,200 chilling hours -- time below 45 degrees Fahrenheit -- for annual bloom and berry production. Lowbush blueberries bloom in May and June on 2-foot tall shrubs that form colonies. Highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) bushes grow as tall as 15 feet. Northern highbush plants typically grow from USDA zones 3 through 7 and need 800 to 1,000 chilling hours annually. Southern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum hybrid) plants are typically hardy in USDA zones 5 through 10, and require only 150 to 800 chilling hours a year. All blueberries thrive in full sun in a moist, but well-drained, sandy loam with an acidic pH of 5.5.
Romancing the Seed
Most blueberries do not self-pollinate -- they need a nearby mate with similar genetic qualities to fertilize their flowers. This means blueberries are an unpredictable lot whose offspring seldom duplicate either parent. For this reason, it's usually better to purchase seeds collected by plant societies that contain known cultivars, but some prefer to harvest their own hybrids in the fall. Hold fruit in the refrigerator for several days before maceration and repeated rinsing with water. Remove floating pulp and sterile seeds with a paper towel -- viable seeds sink to the bottom. Scarify seeds by placing them in damp sphagnum moss and filing them in the freezer or fridge for 90 days – that's over 2,000 chilling hours. Keep seeds refrigerated until planting time.
Making a Home
After scarifying seeds in the fridge, plant blueberry seeds outdoors in the fall in warm climates and in spring in the North. For better cultural control, plant them in dampened Sphagnum peat moss in trays. Wherever you plant the seeds, cover then with only 1/4 inch of soil and keep the area continually moist. Blueberries can take six to eight weeks to germinate. Hybrid highbush seeds germinate more unreliably and might take longer than their wild lowbush cousins -- so don't give up until 12 weeks have passed. Sprouting plants need sunny, warm conditions.
Moving Day
Plants will only grow 5 to 6 inches in their first year, so Northern gardeners might want to keep their plants in a sunny window during their first winter. Keep indoor trays on sunny windowsills with a florescent light mounted 14 inches above each tray to provide supplemental light. You won't know what combination of traits your plant has until it begins blooming and bearing after two or more years of growth.
Blueberry Basics
Match the type of blueberry you plant to the conditions in your garden. Wild lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7 and plants demand between 1,000 and 1,200 chilling hours -- time below 45 degrees Fahrenheit -- for annual bloom and berry production. Lowbush blueberries bloom in May and June on 2-foot tall shrubs that form colonies. Highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) bushes grow as tall as 15 feet. Northern highbush plants typically grow from USDA zones 3 through 7 and need 800 to 1,000 chilling hours annually. Southern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum hybrid) plants are typically hardy in USDA zones 5 through 10, and require only 150 to 800 chilling hours a year. All blueberries thrive in full sun in a moist, but well-drained, sandy loam with an acidic pH of 5.5.
Romancing the Seed
Most blueberries do not self-pollinate -- they need a nearby mate with similar genetic qualities to fertilize their flowers. This means blueberries are an unpredictable lot whose offspring seldom duplicate either parent. For this reason, it's usually better to purchase seeds collected by plant societies that contain known cultivars, but some prefer to harvest their own hybrids in the fall. Hold fruit in the refrigerator for several days before maceration and repeated rinsing with water. Remove floating pulp and sterile seeds with a paper towel -- viable seeds sink to the bottom. Scarify seeds by placing them in damp sphagnum moss and filing them in the freezer or fridge for 90 days – that's over 2,000 chilling hours. Keep seeds refrigerated until planting time.
Making a Home
After scarifying seeds in the fridge, plant blueberry seeds outdoors in the fall in warm climates and in spring in the North. For better cultural control, plant them in dampened Sphagnum peat moss in trays. Wherever you plant the seeds, cover then with only 1/4 inch of soil and keep the area continually moist. Blueberries can take six to eight weeks to germinate. Hybrid highbush seeds germinate more unreliably and might take longer than their wild lowbush cousins -- so don't give up until 12 weeks have passed. Sprouting plants need sunny, warm conditions.
Moving Day
Plants will only grow 5 to 6 inches in their first year, so Northern gardeners might want to keep their plants in a sunny window during their first winter. Keep indoor trays on sunny windowsills with a florescent light mounted 14 inches above each tray to provide supplemental light. You won't know what combination of traits your plant has until it begins blooming and bearing after two or more years of growth.
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