文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
People have been growing Aloe vera for literally thousands of years. It is one of the most widely used medicinal plants on the planet. If you are wondering, “How can I grow an aloe plant?” We are here to tell you that taking care of an Aloe Vera plant in your home is easy.
Keep reading to learn more about how to grow and care for an Aloe Vera plant.
Growing Conditions
The first step in Aloe Vera care is to realize that this plant is a succulent. Like cacti, succulents do best in dry conditions. When growing Aloe Vera plants, plant them in a cactus potting soil mix or a regular potting soil that has been amended with additional perlite or building sand. Also, make sure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. It cannot tolerate standing water.
One important thing in the care of Aloe Vera houseplants is that they have proper light. They need bright light, so they do best in south- or west-facing windows.
General Care
Another important part of how to grow an Aloe Vera is to water the plant properly. The soil should be allowed to go completely dry before being watered. When the plant is watered, the soil should be thoroughly drenched, but the water should be allowed to drain freely from the soil. The most common reason an Aloe Vera dies is that the owners water too often or do not allow the water to drain. Do not make this mistake when taking care of Aloe houseplants.You can fertilize your Aloe Vera, but Aloes do not need to be fertilized. If you decide to add fertilizing to part of your Aloe Vera plant care routine, plants should be fertilized once a year in the spring. You can use a phosphorus-heavy water-based fertilizer at half strength.
Growing Aloe Vera houseplants is not only easy but can also provide your family with a plant that can help treat minor burns and rashes. Now that you know a little more about how to care for an Aloe Vera plant, you need never be without this lovely and helpful plant.
Keep reading to learn more about how to grow and care for an Aloe Vera plant.
Growing Conditions
The first step in Aloe Vera care is to realize that this plant is a succulent. Like cacti, succulents do best in dry conditions. When growing Aloe Vera plants, plant them in a cactus potting soil mix or a regular potting soil that has been amended with additional perlite or building sand. Also, make sure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. It cannot tolerate standing water.
One important thing in the care of Aloe Vera houseplants is that they have proper light. They need bright light, so they do best in south- or west-facing windows.
General Care
Another important part of how to grow an Aloe Vera is to water the plant properly. The soil should be allowed to go completely dry before being watered. When the plant is watered, the soil should be thoroughly drenched, but the water should be allowed to drain freely from the soil. The most common reason an Aloe Vera dies is that the owners water too often or do not allow the water to drain. Do not make this mistake when taking care of Aloe houseplants.You can fertilize your Aloe Vera, but Aloes do not need to be fertilized. If you decide to add fertilizing to part of your Aloe Vera plant care routine, plants should be fertilized once a year in the spring. You can use a phosphorus-heavy water-based fertilizer at half strength.
Growing Aloe Vera houseplants is not only easy but can also provide your family with a plant that can help treat minor burns and rashes. Now that you know a little more about how to care for an Aloe Vera plant, you need never be without this lovely and helpful plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Many people prefer succulent plants for outdoor garden and indoor decoration. For those places which experiences dry and hot weather, these plants can be excellent for growing in those areas. Many people have started growing succulents indoors because they don’t require much sunlight and can grow well indoors.
Maintenance of these plants are very easy, especially when grown indoors, the succulents in pots won’t be a lot of trouble unlike other indoor plants. The ones that grown in pots will remain in a perfect size because of the smaller place they will be getting from the container, however if grown in flower beds outside, their size will be much more, however they may require more water since they will be under direct sunlight. If you are a person who enjoy care-free living or are busy most of the time and at the same time love having plants indoors then growing succulents in containers is the best option for you. These plants may even produce flowers, which could be your indoor fresh flower bouquet in your house.
Some of the most common succulent houseplants are Burro’s Tail, Christmas Cactus, Crown of Thorns, Jade Plant, Panda Plant, Snake Plant, and many more. What many people don’t know is that how to plant succulents indoors? Planting these amazing plants indoors is very easy. With proper guidance and research you can grow some healthy and beautiful succulents indoors in different containers and pots. You can line them by your stairs indoors, in your kitchen, living room and other places you like. Unlike cacti, other succulents may have a variety of colors and when it is the blooming season; your interior will look pretty with all the flowers around. Here are 10 tips for growing indoor succulents:
1. The best place for keeping your succulent plants indoors is somewhere near the window, especially on the eastern side. The sun rises from the east, in this period the intensity of the rays are less and so will be excellent for the plants. Keep in mind that excessive sunlight can cause yellow spots on your plant which is also known as the sunburns.
2. Many people would think that they have to provide a lot of water to the succulents. Just like any plant, watering succulents should be kept to normal range. Between the watering periods the soil should be dry so that they can grow well, moreover, during the winter season they shouldn’t be watered much (only once a week).
3. Without any doubt, the glass containers or pots look very pretty, however they are not recommended for planting the succulents. This is because the glass container won’t be able to drain water or let it evaporate, however the clay pots or containers can help the moisture to evaporate or excessive water to drain. Succulents don’t like sitting in soggy or damp soil, they just require normal moisture content or water.
4. There is hardly a chance you may get bugs in your small indoor plants, but if by chance you do, avoid using the chemical because they are kept indoors can be hazardous to your health. Make a solution of diluted alcohol, water and dish soap liquid to kill the bugs. Bugs are usually attracted to those succulents whose soil is moist and soggy.
5. Add fertilizer to the indoor succulent plants only once in a year.
6. Many people don’t know how to grow succulents indoors and what type of soil to use. Unlike other plants they don’t use the same soil. The soil needed for the succulents should be well draining and porous, 70% of sand and 30% of soil is the best combination for them.
7. If you have kept the succulent plant in a place which doesn’t receive any sun light, then you might have to move your plants on at least weekly basis outside so that they can get some sunlight to grow better.
8. Avoid using chemical based liquid fertilizers and sprays on the succulent plants kept indoors. Not only it will ruin the plant but also be hazardous for you.
9. You can trim succulent plants only once in a year, if kept in small pot or containers, they might not even need any trimming.
10. Succulent are dessert plants and so can withstand both the hot and cold temperature, you don’t have to worry about the season change.
Maintenance of these plants are very easy, especially when grown indoors, the succulents in pots won’t be a lot of trouble unlike other indoor plants. The ones that grown in pots will remain in a perfect size because of the smaller place they will be getting from the container, however if grown in flower beds outside, their size will be much more, however they may require more water since they will be under direct sunlight. If you are a person who enjoy care-free living or are busy most of the time and at the same time love having plants indoors then growing succulents in containers is the best option for you. These plants may even produce flowers, which could be your indoor fresh flower bouquet in your house.
Some of the most common succulent houseplants are Burro’s Tail, Christmas Cactus, Crown of Thorns, Jade Plant, Panda Plant, Snake Plant, and many more. What many people don’t know is that how to plant succulents indoors? Planting these amazing plants indoors is very easy. With proper guidance and research you can grow some healthy and beautiful succulents indoors in different containers and pots. You can line them by your stairs indoors, in your kitchen, living room and other places you like. Unlike cacti, other succulents may have a variety of colors and when it is the blooming season; your interior will look pretty with all the flowers around. Here are 10 tips for growing indoor succulents:
1. The best place for keeping your succulent plants indoors is somewhere near the window, especially on the eastern side. The sun rises from the east, in this period the intensity of the rays are less and so will be excellent for the plants. Keep in mind that excessive sunlight can cause yellow spots on your plant which is also known as the sunburns.
2. Many people would think that they have to provide a lot of water to the succulents. Just like any plant, watering succulents should be kept to normal range. Between the watering periods the soil should be dry so that they can grow well, moreover, during the winter season they shouldn’t be watered much (only once a week).
3. Without any doubt, the glass containers or pots look very pretty, however they are not recommended for planting the succulents. This is because the glass container won’t be able to drain water or let it evaporate, however the clay pots or containers can help the moisture to evaporate or excessive water to drain. Succulents don’t like sitting in soggy or damp soil, they just require normal moisture content or water.
4. There is hardly a chance you may get bugs in your small indoor plants, but if by chance you do, avoid using the chemical because they are kept indoors can be hazardous to your health. Make a solution of diluted alcohol, water and dish soap liquid to kill the bugs. Bugs are usually attracted to those succulents whose soil is moist and soggy.
5. Add fertilizer to the indoor succulent plants only once in a year.
6. Many people don’t know how to grow succulents indoors and what type of soil to use. Unlike other plants they don’t use the same soil. The soil needed for the succulents should be well draining and porous, 70% of sand and 30% of soil is the best combination for them.
7. If you have kept the succulent plant in a place which doesn’t receive any sun light, then you might have to move your plants on at least weekly basis outside so that they can get some sunlight to grow better.
8. Avoid using chemical based liquid fertilizers and sprays on the succulent plants kept indoors. Not only it will ruin the plant but also be hazardous for you.
9. You can trim succulent plants only once in a year, if kept in small pot or containers, they might not even need any trimming.
10. Succulent are dessert plants and so can withstand both the hot and cold temperature, you don’t have to worry about the season change.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
There’s a lot to love about gardening with succulents. These attractive plants are drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, making succulents ideal for busy gardeners of all ages. Under the right growing conditions, these carefree plants rarely suffer from diseases or pests. To get you started, here are several helpful tips for growing succulents.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are basically plants that store water in their thick, fleshy stems and leaves. Included in this group of plants are cacti, Aloe and many other genera. Succulents come in a wide array of colors, shapes and textures.
Many succulents flower in different colors, but the plants are often valued most for their foliage. The leaves can be variegated and come in colors ranging from blue-gray and green to yellow, red and pink.
Raised Beds or Gardens
Succulents require excellent drainage. If you have a heavy clay soil, consider gardening with succulents in raised beds, which have plenty of coarse sand or pea gravel mixed with organic matter. Don’t mulch heavily with wood chips, as this could retain too much moisture in rainy areas.
Gardening with Succulents in Containers
Succulents grow well in containers, which makes it convenient for bringing the plants indoors during colder weather. Terracotta containers are excellent for gardening with succulents, because they provide good drainage.
When growing succulents in containers, use a fast-draining planting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Or, consider adding perlite to increase drainage in your potting soil.
Many succulents tend to be shallow rooted, so they grow well in shallow containers with drainage. Cover drain holes with fine screens so the soil doesn’t wash out.
Experiment with mixing succulents, with Agaves, Echeverias, Sedums and other drought-tolerant plants for a dramatic effect. Or, plant a single species in a pot to showcase its beauty.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are basically plants that store water in their thick, fleshy stems and leaves. Included in this group of plants are cacti, Aloe and many other genera. Succulents come in a wide array of colors, shapes and textures.
Many succulents flower in different colors, but the plants are often valued most for their foliage. The leaves can be variegated and come in colors ranging from blue-gray and green to yellow, red and pink.
Raised Beds or Gardens
Succulents require excellent drainage. If you have a heavy clay soil, consider gardening with succulents in raised beds, which have plenty of coarse sand or pea gravel mixed with organic matter. Don’t mulch heavily with wood chips, as this could retain too much moisture in rainy areas.
Gardening with Succulents in Containers
Succulents grow well in containers, which makes it convenient for bringing the plants indoors during colder weather. Terracotta containers are excellent for gardening with succulents, because they provide good drainage.
When growing succulents in containers, use a fast-draining planting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Or, consider adding perlite to increase drainage in your potting soil.
Many succulents tend to be shallow rooted, so they grow well in shallow containers with drainage. Cover drain holes with fine screens so the soil doesn’t wash out.
Experiment with mixing succulents, with Agaves, Echeverias, Sedums and other drought-tolerant plants for a dramatic effect. Or, plant a single species in a pot to showcase its beauty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents are undoubtedly growing in popularity. They come in dozens of varieties, boasting different colors and shapes that can be mixed and matched to create a centerpiece or other decorations in the home. If you’re new to gardening or have had bad luck with houseplants in the past, try your hand at caring for succulents indoors.
Succulents are grown outdoors but are brought indoors during the winter months. It’s possible to grow succulents indoors year-round, though. You may be familiar with some types of succulents, like Aloe vera, Jade Plant and Snake Plant.
Environment
While succulents can also be placed outdoors during the growing season, keep them indoors in a bright, sunny location, like a south-facing or west-facing window.
Most succulents thrive if the relative humidity of the house is between 10 and 30 percent. Keep succulents away from drafty locations.
Light
Rely on natural lighting if possible when growing succulents indoors.
You can use artificial lighting, like a cool white fluorescent tube, in place of natural light if necessary, or in combination with natural light. If you’re using cool white fluorescent tubes, keep them 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) above succulents, and keep them on for 12 to 16 hours each day.
Soil
Plant succulents in well-draining, sandy soil. Cornell Cooperative Extension suggests planting succulents in two parts garden soil, two parts sharp builders soil and one part peat. Or, you can use a combination of one part potting soil and one part coarse sand, as recommended by Minnesota State University Extension. Soil that doesn’t drain well may contribute to root and stem rot.
Consider planting succulents in porous containers with drainage holes, like unglazed terracotta or clay pots.
Watering
Succulents don’t require as much water as some other houseplants.
Water sparingly. Allow the soil to dry out completely before watering succulents. Allow water to drain out, then discard the excess water. If you water succulents too much, the stems and roots may rot and the leaves will drop. Succulent leaves will wilt if you haven’t watered enough.
Avoid watering in frequent, small amounts. This can affect growth by making plants sickly and by causing roots to become weak and shallow. Also, be careful not to water too much during winter, which is the dormant period for succulents.
Fertilizer
Succulents can be fertilized with houseplant food that’s diluted to half its recommended rate. The houseplant food should be higher in phosphorus than nitrogen.
During the growing season, fertilize succulents once or twice a month.
Pest Control
Sometimes, succulents can become affected by mealybugs, scales and spider mites. To control mealybugs and scales, soak cotton swabs in rubbing alcohol and dab the plant. To control spider mites, spray succulents with insecticidal soaps.
Succulents are grown outdoors but are brought indoors during the winter months. It’s possible to grow succulents indoors year-round, though. You may be familiar with some types of succulents, like Aloe vera, Jade Plant and Snake Plant.
Environment
While succulents can also be placed outdoors during the growing season, keep them indoors in a bright, sunny location, like a south-facing or west-facing window.
Most succulents thrive if the relative humidity of the house is between 10 and 30 percent. Keep succulents away from drafty locations.
Light
Rely on natural lighting if possible when growing succulents indoors.
You can use artificial lighting, like a cool white fluorescent tube, in place of natural light if necessary, or in combination with natural light. If you’re using cool white fluorescent tubes, keep them 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) above succulents, and keep them on for 12 to 16 hours each day.
Soil
Plant succulents in well-draining, sandy soil. Cornell Cooperative Extension suggests planting succulents in two parts garden soil, two parts sharp builders soil and one part peat. Or, you can use a combination of one part potting soil and one part coarse sand, as recommended by Minnesota State University Extension. Soil that doesn’t drain well may contribute to root and stem rot.
Consider planting succulents in porous containers with drainage holes, like unglazed terracotta or clay pots.
Watering
Succulents don’t require as much water as some other houseplants.
Water sparingly. Allow the soil to dry out completely before watering succulents. Allow water to drain out, then discard the excess water. If you water succulents too much, the stems and roots may rot and the leaves will drop. Succulent leaves will wilt if you haven’t watered enough.
Avoid watering in frequent, small amounts. This can affect growth by making plants sickly and by causing roots to become weak and shallow. Also, be careful not to water too much during winter, which is the dormant period for succulents.
Fertilizer
Succulents can be fertilized with houseplant food that’s diluted to half its recommended rate. The houseplant food should be higher in phosphorus than nitrogen.
During the growing season, fertilize succulents once or twice a month.
Pest Control
Sometimes, succulents can become affected by mealybugs, scales and spider mites. To control mealybugs and scales, soak cotton swabs in rubbing alcohol and dab the plant. To control spider mites, spray succulents with insecticidal soaps.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa), also known as Pussy Ears is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Panda Plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the decor.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a common houseplant that even the most novice of gardeners can grow successfully. Getting a Jade Plant to bloom requires mimicking its native growing conditions. Lack of water, cool nights and bright days encourage the plant to form buds and finally flowers. It’s a bit of a trick, but you can fool your plant into producing pretty little starry white to pink flowers in spring.
Jade Plants are primarily known for their thick, glossy, succulent leaf pads. These succulents reproduce by vegetative means but can also flower and produce seed. We often hear, “my jade plant won’t bloom,” and strive to provide information on what may cause a Jade Plant not flowering and how to promote blooms in reluctant plants.
Jade Plants grow for many years without blooming. Even in their native habitat, the plants need to be very mature before they form flowers. Among the many Jade Plant flowering requirements is an arid ambient environment. Interior conditions are often too humid for the plant to form buds.
Getting a Jade Plant to bloom will require you to remove it to a dry location, withhold water, and expose it to cooler nighttime temperatures. Of course, your plant should be an older species for blooming or you will still not find a single flower. Given the right setting and environment, a Jade Plant not flowering may simply be that it is not old enough to reproduce yet.
Getting a Jade Plant to Bloom
All plants need the same environment they would experience naturally to promote flowering and fruiting. Some require a dormancy period, some a photoperiod and others extreme environmental conditions.
Jade Plant flowering requirements are a combination of all three. The plant doesn’t exactly enter dormancy but it does require a rest period before buds form. As the days become shorter, reduce watering and do not fertilize.
Keep the plant in an area of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (12 degrees Celsius) during fall but protect it from any freezing. Blossoms should start to form around the shortest days of the year and bloom in late winter to early spring. These starry little flowers are produced in clusters at the tips of branches and are short lived.
Once the flowers fade and the stalk becomes brown, you can cut off the flowering stem. Begin to increase water and temperature as the spring progresses. In summer, move the plant outdoors gradually to an area with some protection from searing sun rays, but where it is bright for most of the day.
Water when the surface of the soil is dry. Jade plants like to be crowded, so they rarely need repotting to a larger container but they do need new soil every 3 years. Repot after the flowers have bloomed and at least a month before you move the plant outdoors for summer. Use a good cactus mixture for plants left indoors but add a bit of humus-rich soil to plants that are taken outside.
In spring to late summer, fertilize with a diluted balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Don’t expect annual blooms, however, as the plant needs time to store adequate energy for this infrequent floral spectacle.
Jade Plants are primarily known for their thick, glossy, succulent leaf pads. These succulents reproduce by vegetative means but can also flower and produce seed. We often hear, “my jade plant won’t bloom,” and strive to provide information on what may cause a Jade Plant not flowering and how to promote blooms in reluctant plants.
Jade Plants grow for many years without blooming. Even in their native habitat, the plants need to be very mature before they form flowers. Among the many Jade Plant flowering requirements is an arid ambient environment. Interior conditions are often too humid for the plant to form buds.
Getting a Jade Plant to bloom will require you to remove it to a dry location, withhold water, and expose it to cooler nighttime temperatures. Of course, your plant should be an older species for blooming or you will still not find a single flower. Given the right setting and environment, a Jade Plant not flowering may simply be that it is not old enough to reproduce yet.
Getting a Jade Plant to Bloom
All plants need the same environment they would experience naturally to promote flowering and fruiting. Some require a dormancy period, some a photoperiod and others extreme environmental conditions.
Jade Plant flowering requirements are a combination of all three. The plant doesn’t exactly enter dormancy but it does require a rest period before buds form. As the days become shorter, reduce watering and do not fertilize.
Keep the plant in an area of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (12 degrees Celsius) during fall but protect it from any freezing. Blossoms should start to form around the shortest days of the year and bloom in late winter to early spring. These starry little flowers are produced in clusters at the tips of branches and are short lived.
Once the flowers fade and the stalk becomes brown, you can cut off the flowering stem. Begin to increase water and temperature as the spring progresses. In summer, move the plant outdoors gradually to an area with some protection from searing sun rays, but where it is bright for most of the day.
Water when the surface of the soil is dry. Jade plants like to be crowded, so they rarely need repotting to a larger container but they do need new soil every 3 years. Repot after the flowers have bloomed and at least a month before you move the plant outdoors for summer. Use a good cactus mixture for plants left indoors but add a bit of humus-rich soil to plants that are taken outside.
In spring to late summer, fertilize with a diluted balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Don’t expect annual blooms, however, as the plant needs time to store adequate energy for this infrequent floral spectacle.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents have different needs than most other plants. Here are the most common mistakes when growing succulents and how to avoid them.
Overwatering
The biggest mistake people make with succulents is overwatering them. Waterlogged roots rot, the stem becomes squishy, and leaves fall off. On the surface, your succulent may look okay, until one day you find that your lower leaves have gone slimy and black. If any of your leaves look yellow, translucent, or slimy, you may be overwatering. Succulent roots are very sensitive, and are super susceptible to root rot, so be careful with your watering habits! Most succulents only need to be watered once every 1-2 weeks. When they’re actively growing—which for most kinds is spring and summer—drench the soil once a week. When they’re dormant—usually in fall and winter—do so once a month. It’s best to let their soil dry out completely before watering again!
Using the Wrong Container
Succulents need well draining soil! They also need well-draining containers! Containers with no drainage holes typically retain far too much water for succulents (and are also susceptible to overheating which brews bacteria), and your plants are far less likely to do well in these. So, while you may love the idea of repurposing that galvanized steel bucket as a planter, be sure to drill holes in the bottom first (or be prepared to deal with many potential issues!) You’d be best with wood, terra cotta, or hypertufa containers that can easily breathe.
Using the Wrong Soil
The first thing you need to know is that succulent roots do not get water from direct contact. Rather, they absorb the water molecules in the air. This is why having a succulent sitting in sopping wet soil is so problematic and makes the plant rot– your roots don’t suck water up as readily, and your soil can stay wet for much longer! This could lead to a whole host of problems, from plant gnats, to mold. Succulents typically don’t do well in conventional garden soil, unless you’re very rarely water. You’ll want a well draining soil. You can buy a succulent mix at a garden center, but you can always mix your own as well!
Trying to Squeeze Too Many in One Space
Succulent arrangements are gorgeous, but they’re really best as temporary decoration! While succulents can take some “squeezing” better than most plants, at a certain point, close becomes too close, and they reach a size threshold in which they can no longer compete for nutrients! If you have a jam packed succulent arrangement, and you find that some plants are withering or dying away, it maybe time for some separation.
Keeping Them in a Windowless Room
When succulents are indoors it’s often hard for them to get enough sunlight. They generally need about 6 hours a day. This can be hard to achieve from a cubicle or bathroom, so if you want to have a succulent in these locations, its best to use other methods of getting your plants enough light, such as putting them outside or in a bright window for the weekend, or investing in grow lights! Remember, these are naturally desert plants, and deal with some of the sunniest and driest environments on the planet.
Fertilizing Improperly
A common succulent faux-pas is the idea that they don’t need fertilizer! Like any other plant, they need a variety of macro and micro-nutrients to survive. While they get along just fine without it, sometimes a bit of fertilizer can be the key to having lush and green plants.
Overwatering
The biggest mistake people make with succulents is overwatering them. Waterlogged roots rot, the stem becomes squishy, and leaves fall off. On the surface, your succulent may look okay, until one day you find that your lower leaves have gone slimy and black. If any of your leaves look yellow, translucent, or slimy, you may be overwatering. Succulent roots are very sensitive, and are super susceptible to root rot, so be careful with your watering habits! Most succulents only need to be watered once every 1-2 weeks. When they’re actively growing—which for most kinds is spring and summer—drench the soil once a week. When they’re dormant—usually in fall and winter—do so once a month. It’s best to let their soil dry out completely before watering again!
Using the Wrong Container
Succulents need well draining soil! They also need well-draining containers! Containers with no drainage holes typically retain far too much water for succulents (and are also susceptible to overheating which brews bacteria), and your plants are far less likely to do well in these. So, while you may love the idea of repurposing that galvanized steel bucket as a planter, be sure to drill holes in the bottom first (or be prepared to deal with many potential issues!) You’d be best with wood, terra cotta, or hypertufa containers that can easily breathe.
Using the Wrong Soil
The first thing you need to know is that succulent roots do not get water from direct contact. Rather, they absorb the water molecules in the air. This is why having a succulent sitting in sopping wet soil is so problematic and makes the plant rot– your roots don’t suck water up as readily, and your soil can stay wet for much longer! This could lead to a whole host of problems, from plant gnats, to mold. Succulents typically don’t do well in conventional garden soil, unless you’re very rarely water. You’ll want a well draining soil. You can buy a succulent mix at a garden center, but you can always mix your own as well!
Trying to Squeeze Too Many in One Space
Succulent arrangements are gorgeous, but they’re really best as temporary decoration! While succulents can take some “squeezing” better than most plants, at a certain point, close becomes too close, and they reach a size threshold in which they can no longer compete for nutrients! If you have a jam packed succulent arrangement, and you find that some plants are withering or dying away, it maybe time for some separation.
Keeping Them in a Windowless Room
When succulents are indoors it’s often hard for them to get enough sunlight. They generally need about 6 hours a day. This can be hard to achieve from a cubicle or bathroom, so if you want to have a succulent in these locations, its best to use other methods of getting your plants enough light, such as putting them outside or in a bright window for the weekend, or investing in grow lights! Remember, these are naturally desert plants, and deal with some of the sunniest and driest environments on the planet.
Fertilizing Improperly
A common succulent faux-pas is the idea that they don’t need fertilizer! Like any other plant, they need a variety of macro and micro-nutrients to survive. While they get along just fine without it, sometimes a bit of fertilizer can be the key to having lush and green plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Common Houseleek (Sempervivum tectorum), also known as Hens and Chicks, are low growing evergreen succulent plants that look a little like rubbery roses. They are considered alpine or rock garden plants, because of their hardiness and drought resistance. The original rosette, the “Hen” produces tiny rosette offsets that are known as the “Chicks”.
The name for the genus “Sempervivum” is Latin for “live forever”. They don’t really live forever, but since they produce the ‘chicks’ or plantlets, they seem to last forever.
Growing Conditions
Light: Common Houseleeks require full sun and well drained, even gritty soil.
Water: As succulents, Common Houseleek plants are accustomed to very little water.
Temperature: The ideal temperature for Hens and Chicks is between 65 and 75 °F (18 and 24 °C). When temperatures zoom upwards or plummet down, the plants become semi-dormant and will cease growing.
Soil: Common Houseleek as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage. Soil pH should be in the neutral range, 6.6 to 7.5.
Growing Tips
Common Houseleek can be grown from seeds, seedlings or by dividing offsets.
Don’t plant your Common Houseleeks too deeply. Dig a shallow hole and spread the roots. Cover to the crown of the plant and tamp the soil gently so that the plant is firm in the ground. Water lightly, but you don’t need to water newly planted Common Houseleek every day, the way you would with non-succulents. Common Houseleeks need to let their roots dry out between waterings.
Seeds can be sprinkled on top of a soil, gravel mix and kept moderately moist until they germinate. Once they sprout, sprinkle some fine gravel around them as mulch. Seeds are usually started in pots and then transferred to the garden as seedlings. You can start your seeds in the fall and transplant in the spring.
Common Houseleeks will spread by underground roots. Each plant multiplies by at last 4, in a growing season, by producing little offset plantlets all around the perimeter of the “Hen”. These are the “Chicks”. The Chicks can be snapped off and replanted elsewhere at any time.
Once established, maintenance of Common Houseleeks is minimal. You’ll need to remove the old hens, after they flower, and divide chicks as needed. Except in extremely hot, dry situations, you won’t even need to give them supplemental water.
Pests and Diseases
Crown rot will occur in wet soils. Some varieties can get Endophyllum rust, a fungus disease. Both problems can be prevented if grown in dry conditions.
The name for the genus “Sempervivum” is Latin for “live forever”. They don’t really live forever, but since they produce the ‘chicks’ or plantlets, they seem to last forever.
Growing Conditions
Light: Common Houseleeks require full sun and well drained, even gritty soil.
Water: As succulents, Common Houseleek plants are accustomed to very little water.
Temperature: The ideal temperature for Hens and Chicks is between 65 and 75 °F (18 and 24 °C). When temperatures zoom upwards or plummet down, the plants become semi-dormant and will cease growing.
Soil: Common Houseleek as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage. Soil pH should be in the neutral range, 6.6 to 7.5.
Growing Tips
Common Houseleek can be grown from seeds, seedlings or by dividing offsets.
Don’t plant your Common Houseleeks too deeply. Dig a shallow hole and spread the roots. Cover to the crown of the plant and tamp the soil gently so that the plant is firm in the ground. Water lightly, but you don’t need to water newly planted Common Houseleek every day, the way you would with non-succulents. Common Houseleeks need to let their roots dry out between waterings.
Seeds can be sprinkled on top of a soil, gravel mix and kept moderately moist until they germinate. Once they sprout, sprinkle some fine gravel around them as mulch. Seeds are usually started in pots and then transferred to the garden as seedlings. You can start your seeds in the fall and transplant in the spring.
Common Houseleeks will spread by underground roots. Each plant multiplies by at last 4, in a growing season, by producing little offset plantlets all around the perimeter of the “Hen”. These are the “Chicks”. The Chicks can be snapped off and replanted elsewhere at any time.
Once established, maintenance of Common Houseleeks is minimal. You’ll need to remove the old hens, after they flower, and divide chicks as needed. Except in extremely hot, dry situations, you won’t even need to give them supplemental water.
Pests and Diseases
Crown rot will occur in wet soils. Some varieties can get Endophyllum rust, a fungus disease. Both problems can be prevented if grown in dry conditions.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents, which include the fleshy-leaved plants we often associate with that name, as well as cacti, respond to many environmental stressors by stopping growing and dropping leaves, reducing their energy needs. Heat, frost, low or high light, improper watering and chemical shock can all cause leaf drop, often quite suddenly.
Temperature Trouble
Because most succulents are adapted to hot, arid areas where prolonged periods of heat are the norm, they respond by dropping leaves when stressed by heat or drought. Although this is relatively normal, keeping succulents in the shade when temperatures soar will help prevent this. Watch them closely: if they look wilted or sunburned, move them or place a shade cloth over them. The opposite problem also occurs: succulents do not do well with freezes, which may blacken and burn their leaves. Sometimes these will fall off, but usually not until the plant grows new leaves to replace them, so resist the urge to peel off these protective dead leaves. The Stonecrop (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’) for example, grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, and will tolerate a wide range of temperatures but may still drop leaves when stressed.
Low Light
Succulents need enough light, especially as they are typically adapted to areas with lots of sun year-round. They do best in brightly lit areas, and when lacking light, will turn light green or yellow and straggly, trying to grow toward the light. If the problem is not corrected, they will eventually drop leaves or die. Low light is not the only problem — succulents that are moved to a new area without acclimation, or suddenly rotated in a bright spot, may get a sunburn on the side that hasn’t seen sun for a while. Make changes slowly, and wait for plants to adapt before moving on.
Chemical Burns
Shocking the system of a succulent can also cause leaf drop. When succulents contract diseases or fungal infections, it is certainly tempting to respond immediately and forcefully, but you must be careful. When using chemicals, always read package directions thoroughly and do not reapply more often than recommended by the label. Always make sure your succulent isn’t environmentally stressed before applying chemicals.
Unwise Watering
Succulents are known for needing little water, and while too little will cause them to wilt and fail to thrive, you must be careful about over-watering them. Giving succulents too much water too often will swell their leaves and, if they do not get a chance to dry out, cause them to drop off the plant. Wait until soil is almost completely dry and the leaves look a little limp before watering, then water thoroughly, until you see trickles coming out of the bottom of the pot. Repeat the process. Always use pots with drainage holes for succulents.
Temperature Trouble
Because most succulents are adapted to hot, arid areas where prolonged periods of heat are the norm, they respond by dropping leaves when stressed by heat or drought. Although this is relatively normal, keeping succulents in the shade when temperatures soar will help prevent this. Watch them closely: if they look wilted or sunburned, move them or place a shade cloth over them. The opposite problem also occurs: succulents do not do well with freezes, which may blacken and burn their leaves. Sometimes these will fall off, but usually not until the plant grows new leaves to replace them, so resist the urge to peel off these protective dead leaves. The Stonecrop (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’) for example, grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, and will tolerate a wide range of temperatures but may still drop leaves when stressed.
Low Light
Succulents need enough light, especially as they are typically adapted to areas with lots of sun year-round. They do best in brightly lit areas, and when lacking light, will turn light green or yellow and straggly, trying to grow toward the light. If the problem is not corrected, they will eventually drop leaves or die. Low light is not the only problem — succulents that are moved to a new area without acclimation, or suddenly rotated in a bright spot, may get a sunburn on the side that hasn’t seen sun for a while. Make changes slowly, and wait for plants to adapt before moving on.
Chemical Burns
Shocking the system of a succulent can also cause leaf drop. When succulents contract diseases or fungal infections, it is certainly tempting to respond immediately and forcefully, but you must be careful. When using chemicals, always read package directions thoroughly and do not reapply more often than recommended by the label. Always make sure your succulent isn’t environmentally stressed before applying chemicals.
Unwise Watering
Succulents are known for needing little water, and while too little will cause them to wilt and fail to thrive, you must be careful about over-watering them. Giving succulents too much water too often will swell their leaves and, if they do not get a chance to dry out, cause them to drop off the plant. Wait until soil is almost completely dry and the leaves look a little limp before watering, then water thoroughly, until you see trickles coming out of the bottom of the pot. Repeat the process. Always use pots with drainage holes for succulents.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you’re growing a Desert Rose (Adenium obesum), you probably know that it has an odd look, with a thick, succulent stem called a caudex that can become a bit grotesque as it enlarges. But its name comes from its desert-like native habitat and its colorful, showy flowers that resemble small roses. Usually easy to grow when given the right conditions, leaves on a Desert Rose might turn yellow and start to fall. This can stem from normal changes as it cycles through the year, or it might signal a problem that needs to be addressed.
A Natural Cycle
A Desert Rose is sensitive to frost but can grow outdoors year-round in USDA hardiness zones 10a through 12. In colder regions, it also does well as a potted plant, either kept indoors as a year-round houseplant or grown outdoors in summer and overwintered indoors.
Whether an outdoor plant in a warm-winter area or a houseplant, Desert Rose usually continues to grow throughout the year, so its leaves should stay green if it’s healthy and problem-free. But in cooler areas where night-time temperatures fall between 39 and 46 degrees Fahrenheit (4 and 8 degrees Celsius) and become 60 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 to 18 degrees Celsius) during the day, a Desert Rose behaves like a deciduous plant, with its leaves gradually turning yellow and dropping. You can prevent a potted plant from losing leaves by moving it indoors before the air cools in the fall. If you grow the plant outdoors year-round and it becomes dormant in fall, it should put out new growth as soon as the air warms in the spring.
Possible Pests
A Desert Rose might attract one of several pests that can affect its leaves, causing them to yellow and eventually dry up. These include mealybugs, fluffy white insects that feed on the foliage. If you see these insects, destroy each one by touching it with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Other possible pests include aphids — small greenish insects — and spider mites, which aren’t readily visible but make web-like coverings on leaves and buds. Both pests feed on plant juices and can cause leaves to yellow, wilt and fall off the plant. For a mild problem, use a strong jet of water to dislodge the pests. If the infestation is severe, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
Fungal Problems
If a Desert Rose is grown in overly wet conditions, it might develop fungal stem rot, which usually starts at a stem tip and could also affect leaves on that stem, causing them to turn yellow, then brown. Eventually, the stem darkens or turns yellow and becomes soft, with the problem moving down the stem toward the soil. To save the plant, prune the affected part of the stem back, making the cut behind the soft area and into healthy, firm tissue. Disinfect the knife or shears by wiping the blade with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
A Natural Cycle
A Desert Rose is sensitive to frost but can grow outdoors year-round in USDA hardiness zones 10a through 12. In colder regions, it also does well as a potted plant, either kept indoors as a year-round houseplant or grown outdoors in summer and overwintered indoors.
Whether an outdoor plant in a warm-winter area or a houseplant, Desert Rose usually continues to grow throughout the year, so its leaves should stay green if it’s healthy and problem-free. But in cooler areas where night-time temperatures fall between 39 and 46 degrees Fahrenheit (4 and 8 degrees Celsius) and become 60 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 to 18 degrees Celsius) during the day, a Desert Rose behaves like a deciduous plant, with its leaves gradually turning yellow and dropping. You can prevent a potted plant from losing leaves by moving it indoors before the air cools in the fall. If you grow the plant outdoors year-round and it becomes dormant in fall, it should put out new growth as soon as the air warms in the spring.
Possible Pests
A Desert Rose might attract one of several pests that can affect its leaves, causing them to yellow and eventually dry up. These include mealybugs, fluffy white insects that feed on the foliage. If you see these insects, destroy each one by touching it with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Other possible pests include aphids — small greenish insects — and spider mites, which aren’t readily visible but make web-like coverings on leaves and buds. Both pests feed on plant juices and can cause leaves to yellow, wilt and fall off the plant. For a mild problem, use a strong jet of water to dislodge the pests. If the infestation is severe, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
Fungal Problems
If a Desert Rose is grown in overly wet conditions, it might develop fungal stem rot, which usually starts at a stem tip and could also affect leaves on that stem, causing them to turn yellow, then brown. Eventually, the stem darkens or turns yellow and becomes soft, with the problem moving down the stem toward the soil. To save the plant, prune the affected part of the stem back, making the cut behind the soft area and into healthy, firm tissue. Disinfect the knife or shears by wiping the blade with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Most plants growing in average garden soil in the St. Louis area receive sufficient nutrients from the soil that deficiencies are not a problem. The most notable exception is iron chlorosis of trees and shrubs, which is more likely to result from a high soil pH than a lack of iron in the soil. See below for more information on this deficiency. Also, because of the higher nitrogen requirement of turf grasses and leafy vegetables in the vegetable garden they may benefit from some additional nitrogen fertilizer. Also, nutrient deficiencies are likely to occur in plants growing in containers that are not fertilized regularly because of the reduced soil volume and the lower nutrient holding capacity of soil-less mixes used for container plants.
Following is some brief information on the symptoms of common nutrient deficiencies:
Macronutrients
Nitrogen
Lack of nitrogen shows up as overall yellow-green leaves instead of a dark green, yellowing and dropping of lower leaves (can be caused by many factors), and overall reduced plant size and slow growth. Although most garden plants receive adequate nitrogen from the soil and dissolved in rainwater, applying nitrogen in a complete, balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 once a year around perennials and shrubs is usually sufficient to provide adequate growth. Leafy vegetables can benefit from additional nitrogen. Most trees do not suffer from lack of sufficient nitrogen. Although lawns respond quickly and dramatically to the application of nitrogen, becoming green and lush, its use should be tempered, as this lush growth is also more susceptible to attack by insects and disease. Nitrogen in best applied to cool-season grasses in fall and on warm season grasses as they begin to grow in early summer. Nitrogen should be applied to container plants in a complete fertilizer, such as 20-20-20.
Phosphorus
Lack of phosphorus typically results in reduced growth and in some plants purplish foliage, especially older leaves. Although it may be observed on container grown plants most soils in Missouri contain ample phosphorus so more rarely would deficiencies be noticed in a garden situation. If you suspect your plants are showing symptoms of lack of phosphorus, have your soil tested. Then add phosphorus as required by the test results. Container grown plants require regular fertilizing with a complete fertilizer such as 20-20-20.
Potash
Again, lack of potash is rare in Missouri soils but deficiency symptoms typically result in stunted growth. Older leaves may yellow and leaf edges may roll up. If a deficiency is suspected have your soil tested and follow the recommendations provided with your soil test results. Container grown plants require regular fertilizing with a complete fertilizer such as 20-20-20.
Calcium, Magnesium and Sulfur
These three elements complete the macronutrients. They are frequently available in adequate amounts in St. Louis soils.
Micronutrients
Several micronutrients are required for good plant growth. These include: iron, manganese, copper, zinc, boron, chlorine, molybdenum, and nickel. Symptoms are almost entirely crop specific, hence, listing general symptoms of little use. Also, their identification can be difficult from symptoms alone. Some are well known and a plant disease reference of well-studied crops may show pictures of the classic symptoms of a particular nutrient deficiency on a crop. Frequently, however, short of sending leaf tissue off to a lab for analysis the gardener is left questioning whether the symptoms they are seeing are caused by a nutrient deficiency or not. If in doubt, treat the plant with a micronutrient fertilizer or a complete fertilizer containing micronutrients. Since most micronutrients are used in very small amounts the fertilizer will provide the plant what it needs if the soil is indeed lacking in a micronutrient. Follow the product’s label directions. In the St. Louis area the most commonly encountered micronutrient problem is with iron.
Iron
Lack of iron most notably causes what is referred to as iron chlorosis or yellowing leaves where the veins remain green. New growth is most affected. Lack of iron in the soil, a high soil pH (over 7) that restricts availability of iron in the soil, and environmental conditions can all result in iron chlorosis. For detailed information on iron chlorosis see the IPM page “Iron Chlorosis of Trees and Shrubs” herein. Potted plants showing iron chlorosis can be watered with a fertilizer containing iron or a specific iron fertilizer such as chelated iron.
Following is some brief information on the symptoms of common nutrient deficiencies:
Macronutrients
Nitrogen
Lack of nitrogen shows up as overall yellow-green leaves instead of a dark green, yellowing and dropping of lower leaves (can be caused by many factors), and overall reduced plant size and slow growth. Although most garden plants receive adequate nitrogen from the soil and dissolved in rainwater, applying nitrogen in a complete, balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 once a year around perennials and shrubs is usually sufficient to provide adequate growth. Leafy vegetables can benefit from additional nitrogen. Most trees do not suffer from lack of sufficient nitrogen. Although lawns respond quickly and dramatically to the application of nitrogen, becoming green and lush, its use should be tempered, as this lush growth is also more susceptible to attack by insects and disease. Nitrogen in best applied to cool-season grasses in fall and on warm season grasses as they begin to grow in early summer. Nitrogen should be applied to container plants in a complete fertilizer, such as 20-20-20.
Phosphorus
Lack of phosphorus typically results in reduced growth and in some plants purplish foliage, especially older leaves. Although it may be observed on container grown plants most soils in Missouri contain ample phosphorus so more rarely would deficiencies be noticed in a garden situation. If you suspect your plants are showing symptoms of lack of phosphorus, have your soil tested. Then add phosphorus as required by the test results. Container grown plants require regular fertilizing with a complete fertilizer such as 20-20-20.
Potash
Again, lack of potash is rare in Missouri soils but deficiency symptoms typically result in stunted growth. Older leaves may yellow and leaf edges may roll up. If a deficiency is suspected have your soil tested and follow the recommendations provided with your soil test results. Container grown plants require regular fertilizing with a complete fertilizer such as 20-20-20.
Calcium, Magnesium and Sulfur
These three elements complete the macronutrients. They are frequently available in adequate amounts in St. Louis soils.
Micronutrients
Several micronutrients are required for good plant growth. These include: iron, manganese, copper, zinc, boron, chlorine, molybdenum, and nickel. Symptoms are almost entirely crop specific, hence, listing general symptoms of little use. Also, their identification can be difficult from symptoms alone. Some are well known and a plant disease reference of well-studied crops may show pictures of the classic symptoms of a particular nutrient deficiency on a crop. Frequently, however, short of sending leaf tissue off to a lab for analysis the gardener is left questioning whether the symptoms they are seeing are caused by a nutrient deficiency or not. If in doubt, treat the plant with a micronutrient fertilizer or a complete fertilizer containing micronutrients. Since most micronutrients are used in very small amounts the fertilizer will provide the plant what it needs if the soil is indeed lacking in a micronutrient. Follow the product’s label directions. In the St. Louis area the most commonly encountered micronutrient problem is with iron.
Iron
Lack of iron most notably causes what is referred to as iron chlorosis or yellowing leaves where the veins remain green. New growth is most affected. Lack of iron in the soil, a high soil pH (over 7) that restricts availability of iron in the soil, and environmental conditions can all result in iron chlorosis. For detailed information on iron chlorosis see the IPM page “Iron Chlorosis of Trees and Shrubs” herein. Potted plants showing iron chlorosis can be watered with a fertilizer containing iron or a specific iron fertilizer such as chelated iron.
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Ashtyn Emily Wright
2017年09月18日
I got given these baby succulent cuttings about a week ago & I have no idea what any of them are but I potted them anyway & they're all growing roots so 🤷🏼♀️ let's see what happens!🤗✨
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cclecombe：I love those little pots for them!!
meriunkat：aww they are so adorable 😆
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are considered low-maintenance plants even when grown indoors. The leaves and stems hold water as an adaptation to growing in arid areas. These plants offer unusual shapes, textures and forms. They make good houseplants for year-round growing inside. Plants grown in pots outdoors can be brought indoors during the winter to protect the cold-temperature sensitive succulent varieties.
1. Feed the succulents one last time at the end of summer. Succulents only need diluted fertilizer while they are actively growing. Stop feeding when the plants stop growing for the year and go dormant, which occurs when the temperatures drop and the light level falls. Too much fertilizer causes succulents to develop soft leaves, which are prone to rot.
2. Place the dormant succulent in an area with at least 3 to 4 hours of bright light. Succulents need less light during the winter than when they are actively growing during the summer. Succulents survive with indirect light during the winter.
3. Keep the temperature of the room the succulents are in around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius) during the winter. Many succulents such as Aeoniums do not tolerate colder temperatures.
4. Pour water into the top of the succulent container until it drains out the bottom. Water the succulents deeply but less often in the winter. The dormant plants do not use as much water as when they are actively growing. Water the plants about once every one to two months.
5. Check the leaves every month for aphids or mealy bugs, which look like tiny cotton balls. Look under the leaves as well. Move an infested succulent away from other plants. Fill a spray bottle with 3 parts rubbing alcohol mixed with 1 part water, and mist it onto the plant to kill the pests. Keep the succulent away from the rest of the plants for a couple of weeks just in case a few of the bugs survive the first spray. Repeat the rubbing alcohol application until all the pests are gone.
1. Feed the succulents one last time at the end of summer. Succulents only need diluted fertilizer while they are actively growing. Stop feeding when the plants stop growing for the year and go dormant, which occurs when the temperatures drop and the light level falls. Too much fertilizer causes succulents to develop soft leaves, which are prone to rot.
2. Place the dormant succulent in an area with at least 3 to 4 hours of bright light. Succulents need less light during the winter than when they are actively growing during the summer. Succulents survive with indirect light during the winter.
3. Keep the temperature of the room the succulents are in around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius) during the winter. Many succulents such as Aeoniums do not tolerate colder temperatures.
4. Pour water into the top of the succulent container until it drains out the bottom. Water the succulents deeply but less often in the winter. The dormant plants do not use as much water as when they are actively growing. Water the plants about once every one to two months.
5. Check the leaves every month for aphids or mealy bugs, which look like tiny cotton balls. Look under the leaves as well. Move an infested succulent away from other plants. Fill a spray bottle with 3 parts rubbing alcohol mixed with 1 part water, and mist it onto the plant to kill the pests. Keep the succulent away from the rest of the plants for a couple of weeks just in case a few of the bugs survive the first spray. Repeat the rubbing alcohol application until all the pests are gone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
This pest is the most serious pest of this evergreen plant. It occurs everywhere in the USA from the East to the West coast. All varieties of boxwood are susceptible but the slower-growing English varieties are less susceptible than the American cultivars. The leafminer feeds between the upper and lower sides of the leaf.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The larvae feeding between the upper and lower parts of the leaf causes blisters on the underside of the leaf. The leaves infested by this pest become yellow and smaller than a normal leaf. When the plant is severely infested, it appears completely unhealthy.
Life Cycle
Boxwood leafminers over-winter as partially-grown larvae in the leaf blisters. When the days warm in spring, the larvae become active and grow rapidly feeding between the upper and lower leaves for the balance of the summer. In May the adults force the pupal skin out of the mine, where it hangs for a few days after the fly, a gall midge, emerges. The adult leafminer is a yellow to orange-red fly that looks like a mosquito. Adult flies swarm around boxwoods about the time that the Weigelas bloom. When the boxwood’s new growth appears in spring, the females mate, then insert their eggs into the underside of the leaves. The adult fly dies soon after. The eggs hatch in about 14-21 days into the larval stage ( a maggot) that grows and feeds for the rest of the summer. The leaves develop the characteristic blisters as the larvae feed. The larvae then develop into orange pupae which darken before the adults emerge. One generation of the pest occurs each year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Select resistant cultivars. Culltivars of English boxwood such as Buxus sempervirens 'Pendula,' '‘Suffruticosa,' 'Handworthiensis,' 'Pyramidalis,' 'Argenteo-varigata' and 'Varder Valley' are more resistant.
2. Natural controls. Encourage natural predators such as green lacewings and spiders. Maintain plant vigor since healthy plants are more tolerant of insect damage.
3. Mechanical controls. Prune the foliage before adults emerge or right after adult flies lay their eggs in May. This reduces the overall population of the leafminer. Pinch leaves hard enough to kill maggots in the infested leaves when practical.
4. Chemical insecticide control. If you choose to use a pesticide, apply when the new leaves are fully formed, around May 1st when the Weigela is in bloom. Make a second application between mid-June and mid-July. Use carbaryl (Sevin) or malathion to control adult flies. Acephate (Orthene) applied in mid-May (about 3-4 weeks after the adults emerge.) can be applied to control the larvae developing in the new leaves. In February to early April, the systemic insecticide imidacloprid (Merit) can be applied around the base of the shrub.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The larvae feeding between the upper and lower parts of the leaf causes blisters on the underside of the leaf. The leaves infested by this pest become yellow and smaller than a normal leaf. When the plant is severely infested, it appears completely unhealthy.
Life Cycle
Boxwood leafminers over-winter as partially-grown larvae in the leaf blisters. When the days warm in spring, the larvae become active and grow rapidly feeding between the upper and lower leaves for the balance of the summer. In May the adults force the pupal skin out of the mine, where it hangs for a few days after the fly, a gall midge, emerges. The adult leafminer is a yellow to orange-red fly that looks like a mosquito. Adult flies swarm around boxwoods about the time that the Weigelas bloom. When the boxwood’s new growth appears in spring, the females mate, then insert their eggs into the underside of the leaves. The adult fly dies soon after. The eggs hatch in about 14-21 days into the larval stage ( a maggot) that grows and feeds for the rest of the summer. The leaves develop the characteristic blisters as the larvae feed. The larvae then develop into orange pupae which darken before the adults emerge. One generation of the pest occurs each year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Select resistant cultivars. Culltivars of English boxwood such as Buxus sempervirens 'Pendula,' '‘Suffruticosa,' 'Handworthiensis,' 'Pyramidalis,' 'Argenteo-varigata' and 'Varder Valley' are more resistant.
2. Natural controls. Encourage natural predators such as green lacewings and spiders. Maintain plant vigor since healthy plants are more tolerant of insect damage.
3. Mechanical controls. Prune the foliage before adults emerge or right after adult flies lay their eggs in May. This reduces the overall population of the leafminer. Pinch leaves hard enough to kill maggots in the infested leaves when practical.
4. Chemical insecticide control. If you choose to use a pesticide, apply when the new leaves are fully formed, around May 1st when the Weigela is in bloom. Make a second application between mid-June and mid-July. Use carbaryl (Sevin) or malathion to control adult flies. Acephate (Orthene) applied in mid-May (about 3-4 weeks after the adults emerge.) can be applied to control the larvae developing in the new leaves. In February to early April, the systemic insecticide imidacloprid (Merit) can be applied around the base of the shrub.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
The eastern white pine, Pinus strobus, is a fast growing, easily transplanted tree. It can become quite large, requiring sufficient room to develop properly. White pine needles are bluish-green to medium-green with five per bundle, about 4 inches long, very thin, and not stiff. Used as a windbreak, the limbs are brittle and may suffer wind damage which can help lead to decline of the tree. In general, symptoms of decline include some pattern of needle yellowing or browning, shriveled bark on trunk and branches, oozing sap, and in some cases, death of the tree. Affected trees can range from 2 feet to 20 feet or more. The main factor is root decline.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Inspect the roots for brown discoloration and the outer layer pulling off or not present. If the roots are white and healthy, then there are other problems. Other symptoms will be yellowing or browning of the needles and a limp appearance. Do not, however, confuse this with the normal yellowing and shedding of just older needles that occurs annually in the fall. The bark of the trunk and branches may shrivel and ooze sap. White pines suffer under conditions of urban stress, resulting in decreased vigor, less branching, shorter needles, and noticeable foliage chlorosis.
Life Cycle
There is no life cycle as the problem is environmental. There can be many contributing factors, one of which is air pollutants. Other factors can be soil pH, water-logged soil, drought, flooding, heat, and sudden extremes in temperature and moisture. Heat is a main consideration. Even though white pine grows from USDA Zone 3 to 8, it does not appear to thrive in the hot humid areas. Possible use as an understory tree in these areas may help it survive.
A white pine in poor health can be attacked by two root pathogens which can speed the decline of the tree; however, they are not the cause of decline. These pathogens are Phytophthora and Verticicladiella. Fungicides are not recommended as the fungi are not the cause of the tree decline.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Maintain plant vigor. When planting the tree, insure that the soil is moist, rich, well-drained, and on the acid side. The white pine can tolerate full sun though it will perform better in partial shade. Avoid hot, west-facing sites.
2. Select the planting area carefully. Do not use white pines as a windbreak. Since the branches are brittle, they can be damaged, causing stress in the tree. The brittleness can also lead to damage from snow and ice. Do not plant along roadways as salt spray is injurious to the tree. The tree is also subjected to ozone stress which causes needle tips to brown.
3. Planting time. White pines are best planted in spring. If fall planting is done, care should be taken to amend the soil, fertilize, water thoroughly, mulch adequately, and consider application of an anti-desiccant during early winter. Avoid using winter salt on roadways and paths especially where traffic is high.
4. On-going care. Make sure the soil is adequately drained and that the tree is watered in periods of drought. Fertilize with an acid-type fertilizer like ammonium sulfate.
5. Removal. Prompt removal of white pines suffering from decline is not required as they will not infect surrounding pines.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Inspect the roots for brown discoloration and the outer layer pulling off or not present. If the roots are white and healthy, then there are other problems. Other symptoms will be yellowing or browning of the needles and a limp appearance. Do not, however, confuse this with the normal yellowing and shedding of just older needles that occurs annually in the fall. The bark of the trunk and branches may shrivel and ooze sap. White pines suffer under conditions of urban stress, resulting in decreased vigor, less branching, shorter needles, and noticeable foliage chlorosis.
Life Cycle
There is no life cycle as the problem is environmental. There can be many contributing factors, one of which is air pollutants. Other factors can be soil pH, water-logged soil, drought, flooding, heat, and sudden extremes in temperature and moisture. Heat is a main consideration. Even though white pine grows from USDA Zone 3 to 8, it does not appear to thrive in the hot humid areas. Possible use as an understory tree in these areas may help it survive.
A white pine in poor health can be attacked by two root pathogens which can speed the decline of the tree; however, they are not the cause of decline. These pathogens are Phytophthora and Verticicladiella. Fungicides are not recommended as the fungi are not the cause of the tree decline.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Maintain plant vigor. When planting the tree, insure that the soil is moist, rich, well-drained, and on the acid side. The white pine can tolerate full sun though it will perform better in partial shade. Avoid hot, west-facing sites.
2. Select the planting area carefully. Do not use white pines as a windbreak. Since the branches are brittle, they can be damaged, causing stress in the tree. The brittleness can also lead to damage from snow and ice. Do not plant along roadways as salt spray is injurious to the tree. The tree is also subjected to ozone stress which causes needle tips to brown.
3. Planting time. White pines are best planted in spring. If fall planting is done, care should be taken to amend the soil, fertilize, water thoroughly, mulch adequately, and consider application of an anti-desiccant during early winter. Avoid using winter salt on roadways and paths especially where traffic is high.
4. On-going care. Make sure the soil is adequately drained and that the tree is watered in periods of drought. Fertilize with an acid-type fertilizer like ammonium sulfate.
5. Removal. Prompt removal of white pines suffering from decline is not required as they will not infect surrounding pines.
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