文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Silk floss tree, or floss silk tree, whichever the correct name, this specimen has superb showy qualities. This deciduous tree is a true stunner and has the potential to attain a height of over 50 feet with an equal spread. Growing silk floss trees are found in their native tropics of Brazil and Argentina.
About Floss Silk Trees
Known almost interchangeably as silk floss tree or floss silk tree, this beauty may also be referred to as Kapok tree and is in the family of Bombacaceae (Ceiba speciosa – formerly Chorisia speciosa). The floss silk tree crown is uniform with green limbs branching upon which round palmate leaves form.
Growing silk floss trees have a thick green trunk, slightly bulging at maturity and peppered with thorns. During the autumn months (October-November), the tree bares lovely funnel-shaped pink flowers that completely cover the canopy, followed by woody pear-shaped, 8-inch seed pods (fruit) containing silken “floss” entrenched with pea sized seeds. At one time, this floss was used to pad life jackets and pillows, while thin strips of floss silk’s bark were used to make rope. Initially a fast grower, floss silk trees growth slows as it matures. Silk floss trees are useful along highway or median paving strips, residential streets, as specimen plants or shade trees on larger properties. The tree’s growth can be curtailed when used as a container plant or bonsai.
Care of Silk Floss Tree
When planting a silk floss tree, care should be taken to situate at least 15 feet away from the eaves to account for growth and well away from foot traffic and play areas due to the thorny trunk. Floss silk tree care is possible in USDA zones 9-11, as saplings are frost sensitive, but mature trees can withstand temps to 20 F. (-6 C.) for limited time periods. Planting a silk floss tree should occur in full to part sun in well drained, moist, fertile soil.
Care of silk floss tree should include moderate irrigation with a reduction in the winter. Transplants are readily available in climate suitable areas or seeds can be sown from spring to early summer. When planting a silk floss tree, the eventual size should be kept in mind, as leaf drop and fruit pod detritus can be hard on lawn mowers. Floss silk trees are also often affected by scale insects.
About Floss Silk Trees
Known almost interchangeably as silk floss tree or floss silk tree, this beauty may also be referred to as Kapok tree and is in the family of Bombacaceae (Ceiba speciosa – formerly Chorisia speciosa). The floss silk tree crown is uniform with green limbs branching upon which round palmate leaves form.
Growing silk floss trees have a thick green trunk, slightly bulging at maturity and peppered with thorns. During the autumn months (October-November), the tree bares lovely funnel-shaped pink flowers that completely cover the canopy, followed by woody pear-shaped, 8-inch seed pods (fruit) containing silken “floss” entrenched with pea sized seeds. At one time, this floss was used to pad life jackets and pillows, while thin strips of floss silk’s bark were used to make rope. Initially a fast grower, floss silk trees growth slows as it matures. Silk floss trees are useful along highway or median paving strips, residential streets, as specimen plants or shade trees on larger properties. The tree’s growth can be curtailed when used as a container plant or bonsai.
Care of Silk Floss Tree
When planting a silk floss tree, care should be taken to situate at least 15 feet away from the eaves to account for growth and well away from foot traffic and play areas due to the thorny trunk. Floss silk tree care is possible in USDA zones 9-11, as saplings are frost sensitive, but mature trees can withstand temps to 20 F. (-6 C.) for limited time periods. Planting a silk floss tree should occur in full to part sun in well drained, moist, fertile soil.
Care of silk floss tree should include moderate irrigation with a reduction in the winter. Transplants are readily available in climate suitable areas or seeds can be sown from spring to early summer. When planting a silk floss tree, the eventual size should be kept in mind, as leaf drop and fruit pod detritus can be hard on lawn mowers. Floss silk trees are also often affected by scale insects.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Toborochi tree information is not well known by many gardeners. What is a toborochi tree? It’s a tall, deciduous tree with a thorny trunk, native to Argentina and Brazil. If you are interested in toborochi tree growing or want more toborochi tree information, read on.
Where Does the Toborochi Tree Grow?
The tree is native to countries in South America. It is not native to the United States. However, the toborochi tree is or could be cultivated in the United States in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9b through 11. This includes the southern tips of Florida and Texas, as well as coastal and southern California. It’s not hard to identify a toborochi tree (Chorisia speciosa). Mature trees grow trunks shaped like bottles, making the trees look pregnant. Bolivian legends say a pregnant goddess hid inside the tree to give birth to the hummingbird god’s child. She comes out every year in the form of the tree’s pink flowers that do, in fact, attract hummingbirds.
Toborochi Tree Information
In its native range, the tender wood of the young toborochi tree is a preferred food of various predators. However, the serious thorns on the tree’s trunk protect it. The toborochi tree has many nicknames, including “arbol botella,” which means bottle tree. Some Spanish speakers also call the tree “palo borracho,” meaning drunken stick since the trees begin to look disheveled and distorted as they age. In English, it is sometimes called the silk floss tree. This is because the tree’s pods have flossy cotton inside sometimes used to stuff pillows or make rope.
Toborochi Tree Care
If you are thinking of toborochi tree growing, you’ll need to know its mature size. These trees grow to 55 feet tall and 50 feet wide. They grow fast and their silhouette is irregular. Be careful where you place a toborochi tree. Their strong roots can lift sidewalks. Keep them at least 15 feet from curbs, driveways and sidewalks. These trees grow best in full sun but are not picky about the type of soil as long as it is well drained.
The gorgeous display of pink or white flowers will light up your backyard when you’re toborochi tree growing. The large, showy blossoms appear in fall and winter when the tree has dropped its leaves. They resemble hibiscus with narrow petals.
Where Does the Toborochi Tree Grow?
The tree is native to countries in South America. It is not native to the United States. However, the toborochi tree is or could be cultivated in the United States in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9b through 11. This includes the southern tips of Florida and Texas, as well as coastal and southern California. It’s not hard to identify a toborochi tree (Chorisia speciosa). Mature trees grow trunks shaped like bottles, making the trees look pregnant. Bolivian legends say a pregnant goddess hid inside the tree to give birth to the hummingbird god’s child. She comes out every year in the form of the tree’s pink flowers that do, in fact, attract hummingbirds.
Toborochi Tree Information
In its native range, the tender wood of the young toborochi tree is a preferred food of various predators. However, the serious thorns on the tree’s trunk protect it. The toborochi tree has many nicknames, including “arbol botella,” which means bottle tree. Some Spanish speakers also call the tree “palo borracho,” meaning drunken stick since the trees begin to look disheveled and distorted as they age. In English, it is sometimes called the silk floss tree. This is because the tree’s pods have flossy cotton inside sometimes used to stuff pillows or make rope.
Toborochi Tree Care
If you are thinking of toborochi tree growing, you’ll need to know its mature size. These trees grow to 55 feet tall and 50 feet wide. They grow fast and their silhouette is irregular. Be careful where you place a toborochi tree. Their strong roots can lift sidewalks. Keep them at least 15 feet from curbs, driveways and sidewalks. These trees grow best in full sun but are not picky about the type of soil as long as it is well drained.
The gorgeous display of pink or white flowers will light up your backyard when you’re toborochi tree growing. The large, showy blossoms appear in fall and winter when the tree has dropped its leaves. They resemble hibiscus with narrow petals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
The pindo palm (Butia capitata) is a thick, slow growing palm tree that is popular in zones 8 through 11, where it’s winter hardy. Palm trees come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and species, and it’s not always clear how much each tree needs to be pruned, if at all. Keep reading to learn more about how and when to prune a pindo palm tree.
Do I Prune a Pindo Palm?
Do pindo palms need to be pruned? If you are lucky enough to have a pindo palm growing in your garden, you might be tempted to cut it back. As the palm grows, it does have a tendency to get a little ragged looking. Each year the tree will produce eight new leaves. The leaves actually consist of a 4 foot (1.2 m.) long stem that’s covered in spines and 10 inch (25 cm.) long leaves that grow out of it in opposite directions. As these branches of leaves age, they curl down toward the trunk of the tree. Eventually, the older leaves will yellow and finally brown. While it may be tempting, you should not cut back the leaves unless they are completely dead, and even then you need to be careful about it.
How to Prune a Pindo Palm
Cutting a pindo palm back should only be done if the leaves are completely brown. Even then, make sure not to cut them down flush with the trunk. The rough appearance of a pindo palm’s trunk is actually made up of the stubs of dead leaves. Make sure to leave several inches of stem or you risk opening up the tree to infection.
One case in which cutting a pindo palm back is completely okay is when the tree produces flowers. If left in place, the flowers will give way to fruit that, while edible, is often a nuisance when it drops. You can cut the faded flower stalks off to avoid the trouble of fruit litter.
Do I Prune a Pindo Palm?
Do pindo palms need to be pruned? If you are lucky enough to have a pindo palm growing in your garden, you might be tempted to cut it back. As the palm grows, it does have a tendency to get a little ragged looking. Each year the tree will produce eight new leaves. The leaves actually consist of a 4 foot (1.2 m.) long stem that’s covered in spines and 10 inch (25 cm.) long leaves that grow out of it in opposite directions. As these branches of leaves age, they curl down toward the trunk of the tree. Eventually, the older leaves will yellow and finally brown. While it may be tempting, you should not cut back the leaves unless they are completely dead, and even then you need to be careful about it.
How to Prune a Pindo Palm
Cutting a pindo palm back should only be done if the leaves are completely brown. Even then, make sure not to cut them down flush with the trunk. The rough appearance of a pindo palm’s trunk is actually made up of the stubs of dead leaves. Make sure to leave several inches of stem or you risk opening up the tree to infection.
One case in which cutting a pindo palm back is completely okay is when the tree produces flowers. If left in place, the flowers will give way to fruit that, while edible, is often a nuisance when it drops. You can cut the faded flower stalks off to avoid the trouble of fruit litter.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Few things evoke the tropics like a palm tree. Growing palm trees outdoors in northern climates can be challenging due to their frost intolerance but some, like cabbage palm and Chinese fan palms, will survive temperatures to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-9 C.) when mature. Warm climates get their pick of palm tree choices. No matter where you have the plant, knowledge on how to take care of palm trees will help you have a healthy specimen standing proudly in your garden.
Palm Tree Choices
Palm tree care starts with proper selection of species. Choose one that is hardy in your region and situate it where it gets adequate light and has excellent drainage. There are many varieties of palms from which to choose, but consideration should also be taken as to the plants mature size. Some are towering plants and don’t fit into many home landscape situations.
Hardy palms are those that can withstand light freezes and even a bit of snow. In addition to Chinese and cabbage palms, the following palms are all good choices for temperate regions with some cold weather:
Bismarck
Mexican fan
Needle
Sago
Pindo
Windmill
The classic varieties found in places like California and Florida would be:
Palmetto
Mediterranean fan
California fan
Coconut
Queen palm
Royal palm
You can also select the cold hardy varieties for warm season growing. Larger trees should be grown in ground while smaller varieties, such as sago, are useful for growing palm trees outdoors in containers.
How to Take Care of Palm Trees
Once you have your selection site, preparation is crucial to a healthy plant. Excessively alkaline soil should be amended with sulfur. The area should have organic nutrients over a large area since palm tree roots will spread and should have access to these nutrients many feet from the trunk. Take care not to bury the trunk in soil when planting a palm tree, as this could cause rot. Water the root ball before back filling the hole. Spread mulch several feet from the trunk out around the root zone to provide supplemental nourishment over time as it composts. Replace the mulch annually.
Palm Tree Care Over the Years
After planting a palm tree, it needs supplemental watering until it establishes. Do not let the soil dry out completely for the first several months, but also do not let it stand soggy or you will invite fungal issues. In the first year, do a foliar feeding in spring and a time release granular feeding with a 3-1-3 ratio every 4 months. Once the plant has been in the ground a year, apply only the granular feed. Prune off dead fronds as they occur. If you need to prune to maintain size, only prune off the bottom to middle fronds. Topping a tree is not recommended which is why it is important at purchase to consider the mature size.
With very little palm tree care, these majestic plants will live in your landscape for a generation or more, providing shade, dimension and exotic beauty.
Palm Tree Choices
Palm tree care starts with proper selection of species. Choose one that is hardy in your region and situate it where it gets adequate light and has excellent drainage. There are many varieties of palms from which to choose, but consideration should also be taken as to the plants mature size. Some are towering plants and don’t fit into many home landscape situations.
Hardy palms are those that can withstand light freezes and even a bit of snow. In addition to Chinese and cabbage palms, the following palms are all good choices for temperate regions with some cold weather:
Bismarck
Mexican fan
Needle
Sago
Pindo
Windmill
The classic varieties found in places like California and Florida would be:
Palmetto
Mediterranean fan
California fan
Coconut
Queen palm
Royal palm
You can also select the cold hardy varieties for warm season growing. Larger trees should be grown in ground while smaller varieties, such as sago, are useful for growing palm trees outdoors in containers.
How to Take Care of Palm Trees
Once you have your selection site, preparation is crucial to a healthy plant. Excessively alkaline soil should be amended with sulfur. The area should have organic nutrients over a large area since palm tree roots will spread and should have access to these nutrients many feet from the trunk. Take care not to bury the trunk in soil when planting a palm tree, as this could cause rot. Water the root ball before back filling the hole. Spread mulch several feet from the trunk out around the root zone to provide supplemental nourishment over time as it composts. Replace the mulch annually.
Palm Tree Care Over the Years
After planting a palm tree, it needs supplemental watering until it establishes. Do not let the soil dry out completely for the first several months, but also do not let it stand soggy or you will invite fungal issues. In the first year, do a foliar feeding in spring and a time release granular feeding with a 3-1-3 ratio every 4 months. Once the plant has been in the ground a year, apply only the granular feed. Prune off dead fronds as they occur. If you need to prune to maintain size, only prune off the bottom to middle fronds. Topping a tree is not recommended which is why it is important at purchase to consider the mature size.
With very little palm tree care, these majestic plants will live in your landscape for a generation or more, providing shade, dimension and exotic beauty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
The Osage orange tree is an unusual tree. Its fruit are wrinkled green balls the size of grapefruit. On the other hand, the trees’ yellow wood is strong and flexible, and so dense that it is immune to termites. Growing an Osage orange tree is fast and easy. Read on for information about Osage orange trees.
What is Osage Orange?
Many people have never heard of this tree. If you mention it, expect questions like: “What is Osage orange?”
The Osage orange tree (Maclura pomifera) is no kin to the citrus, but the fruit has a faint orangey fragrance strong enough to result in the common name. Its odd shape and color have given it many nicknames, including green brains and hedge apple. The tree also bears long, tough thorns, sharp as steel and can bust tires. These make it a top choice as a defensive hedge. For years, these trees were used for hedges throughout the eastern half of the nation. Farmers planted the tough little trees in tight rows and pruned them well to keep them bushy.
The invention of barbed wire put an end to living Osage hedges, but the wood continued being used for fence posts. It contains tetrahydroxystilbene, an anti-fungicide that may deter insects. Perhaps this chemical is what gives the dense wood its resistance to rot. It’s an excellent wood for fence posts and ship masts. If you are interested in growing an Osage orange tree in a hedge, it will likely stay under 20 feet tall, but in the wild, trees can grow much taller. The trunk grows to several feet in diameter.
Osage Orange Growing Conditions
Growing an Osage orange trees is not difficult since the trees grow readily from both seeds and cuttings. Separating the seeds can be a challenge. It is easiest if you wait for fruit to fall to the ground and freeze in winter, since the cold temperatures facilitate seed-removal. Start growing Osage orange trees by planting individual seeds in pots indoors. Don’t start them outside unless you know exactly where you want them to stand in the garden. These trees are not easy to transplant from one place to another outside.
Osage are tough native trees and are not picky about growing conditions. This makes the care of Osage orange trees easy. Well-drained soil, adequate irrigation and a sunny location helps the tree grow rapidly and stay healthy. If all this information about Osage orange trees makes you want to start growing one, the squirrels will thank you. Osage orange seeds are a favorite squirrel snack.
What is Osage Orange?
Many people have never heard of this tree. If you mention it, expect questions like: “What is Osage orange?”
The Osage orange tree (Maclura pomifera) is no kin to the citrus, but the fruit has a faint orangey fragrance strong enough to result in the common name. Its odd shape and color have given it many nicknames, including green brains and hedge apple. The tree also bears long, tough thorns, sharp as steel and can bust tires. These make it a top choice as a defensive hedge. For years, these trees were used for hedges throughout the eastern half of the nation. Farmers planted the tough little trees in tight rows and pruned them well to keep them bushy.
The invention of barbed wire put an end to living Osage hedges, but the wood continued being used for fence posts. It contains tetrahydroxystilbene, an anti-fungicide that may deter insects. Perhaps this chemical is what gives the dense wood its resistance to rot. It’s an excellent wood for fence posts and ship masts. If you are interested in growing an Osage orange tree in a hedge, it will likely stay under 20 feet tall, but in the wild, trees can grow much taller. The trunk grows to several feet in diameter.
Osage Orange Growing Conditions
Growing an Osage orange trees is not difficult since the trees grow readily from both seeds and cuttings. Separating the seeds can be a challenge. It is easiest if you wait for fruit to fall to the ground and freeze in winter, since the cold temperatures facilitate seed-removal. Start growing Osage orange trees by planting individual seeds in pots indoors. Don’t start them outside unless you know exactly where you want them to stand in the garden. These trees are not easy to transplant from one place to another outside.
Osage are tough native trees and are not picky about growing conditions. This makes the care of Osage orange trees easy. Well-drained soil, adequate irrigation and a sunny location helps the tree grow rapidly and stay healthy. If all this information about Osage orange trees makes you want to start growing one, the squirrels will thank you. Osage orange seeds are a favorite squirrel snack.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
So you love spring cherry blossoms but not the mess the fruit can make. Try growing a Kwanzan cherry tree (Prunus serrulata ‘Kanzan’). Kwanzan cherries are sterile and do not fruit. If this double-flowering Japanese cherry sounds perfect for your landscape, read on to find out how to grow Kwanzan cherries and other Kwanzan cherry tree info.
Kwanzan Cherry Tree Info
If you’ve been to Washington D.C. in the spring, you’ve no doubt been in awe of the numerous flowering cherry trees lining the avenues. Many of these beauties are Kwanzan cherry trees. Not only are they stunning in the spring, but they lend beautiful fall color and the trees are sterile so they do not produce fruit, making them the perfect specimens along roadways and sidewalks.
Native to China, Japan and Korea, the tree’s original name is ‘Sekiyama,’ but it is rarely found under this name. Kwanzan (also known as Kanzan or Japanese flowering cherry) cherries were first donated by the Japanese people in 1912 along with 12 other varieties of flowering cherry.
Considered to be one of the most ornamental of the flowering cherries, the cherry tree grows to around 25- to 30-feet tall with an overall lovely vase shape. The deep pink, double blossoms bloom in clusters of 2-5 in April, just prior to leaf emergence. The tree has dark green, serrated, 5-inch long leaves. In the fall, this foliage changes from yellow to an orange/bronze tone.
How to Grow Kwanzan Cherries
Kwanzan cherries are adaptable and can be found thriving along sidewalks, roadways and even as container plantings. You can also try your hand at growing a Kwanzan cherry tree as a bonsai. The biggest downside to growing this cherry ornamental is its limited lifespan; the tree doesn’t exceed 15-25 years. That said, its stunning beauty and minimal care make it well worth planting. Kwanzan cherries can be grown in USDA hardiness zones 5-9 and should be planted in an area that receives full sun for at least 6 hours per day. The tree tolerates acidic, alkaline, loamy, sandy and both well-draining to wet soils. It prefers regular irrigation, although it is somewhat drought tolerant once established. Kwanzan cherries will also tolerate summer heat and humidity.
Kwanzan Cherry Tree Care
Although Kwanzan cherries are mildly drought tolerant, they prefer plenty of moisture. When caring for your Kwanzan cherry tree, be sure to give it adequate irrigation and avoid other stresses, as the bark is thin and easily damaged. Kwanzan cherries are susceptible to a number of pests, including aphids – which result in sooty mold. Borers, scale bugs, spider mites and tent caterpillars may afflict these flowering cherries as well. Kwanzan cherries may also be afflicted by several diseases. Diseased branches should be pruned out but, otherwise, Kwanzan cherries need little pruning.
Kwanzan Cherry Tree Info
If you’ve been to Washington D.C. in the spring, you’ve no doubt been in awe of the numerous flowering cherry trees lining the avenues. Many of these beauties are Kwanzan cherry trees. Not only are they stunning in the spring, but they lend beautiful fall color and the trees are sterile so they do not produce fruit, making them the perfect specimens along roadways and sidewalks.
Native to China, Japan and Korea, the tree’s original name is ‘Sekiyama,’ but it is rarely found under this name. Kwanzan (also known as Kanzan or Japanese flowering cherry) cherries were first donated by the Japanese people in 1912 along with 12 other varieties of flowering cherry.
Considered to be one of the most ornamental of the flowering cherries, the cherry tree grows to around 25- to 30-feet tall with an overall lovely vase shape. The deep pink, double blossoms bloom in clusters of 2-5 in April, just prior to leaf emergence. The tree has dark green, serrated, 5-inch long leaves. In the fall, this foliage changes from yellow to an orange/bronze tone.
How to Grow Kwanzan Cherries
Kwanzan cherries are adaptable and can be found thriving along sidewalks, roadways and even as container plantings. You can also try your hand at growing a Kwanzan cherry tree as a bonsai. The biggest downside to growing this cherry ornamental is its limited lifespan; the tree doesn’t exceed 15-25 years. That said, its stunning beauty and minimal care make it well worth planting. Kwanzan cherries can be grown in USDA hardiness zones 5-9 and should be planted in an area that receives full sun for at least 6 hours per day. The tree tolerates acidic, alkaline, loamy, sandy and both well-draining to wet soils. It prefers regular irrigation, although it is somewhat drought tolerant once established. Kwanzan cherries will also tolerate summer heat and humidity.
Kwanzan Cherry Tree Care
Although Kwanzan cherries are mildly drought tolerant, they prefer plenty of moisture. When caring for your Kwanzan cherry tree, be sure to give it adequate irrigation and avoid other stresses, as the bark is thin and easily damaged. Kwanzan cherries are susceptible to a number of pests, including aphids – which result in sooty mold. Borers, scale bugs, spider mites and tent caterpillars may afflict these flowering cherries as well. Kwanzan cherries may also be afflicted by several diseases. Diseased branches should be pruned out but, otherwise, Kwanzan cherries need little pruning.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Water oaks are native to North America and found across the American South. These medium sized trees are ornamental shade trees and have an ease of care that makes them perfect in the landscape. Try growing water oak trees as street plants or primary shade trees, but be aware that these plants are short lived and can be assumed to survive 30 to 50 years. Read the article below for more water oak information.
Water Oak Information
Quercus nigra is a tolerant plant that can grow in partial shade or sun to full sun. These elegant trees are deciduous to semi-evergreen and an important part of ecosystems from New Jersey to Florida and west to Texas. Water oaks grow at a fantastic rate of up to 24 inches per year. Caring for a water oak is easy, but it is a weak wooded tree prone to many diseases and insect pests.
Water oaks produce copious quantities of acorns, which are a favorite food of squirrels, raccoons, turkeys, pigs, ducks, quail and deer. Deer also browse young stems and twigs in winter. The trees tend to develop hollow stems, which are habitat for a host of insects and animals. In the wild, it is found in lowlands, flood plains and near rivers and streams. It has the capacity to thrive in compact or loose soil, provided there is adequate moisture. Water oaks may be short lived but their rapid growth makes them an excellent shade tree for decades. However, special water oak tree care when young is essential to produce a strong scaffold. Both pruning and staking may be necessary to help the tree develop a sturdy skeleton.
Growing Water Oak Trees
Water oaks are so adaptable they are often used as residential, reclamation or even drought zone trees. They may be planted in areas with pollution and poor air quality and the tree still thrives. The trees are reliably hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 6 to 9. Water oaks get 50 to 80 feet tall with a nice cone shaped crown. Bark ages to brownish black and thickly scaled. Male flowers are insignificant but female catkins appear in spring and become wide ½ inch long acorns. The leaves are oblong, spatulate and deeply tri-lobed or entire. Foliage may grow 2 to 4 inches long. These trees are extremely adaptable and, once established, caring for a water oak is reduced to handling any pest or disease issues and providing supplemental water during extremely dry periods.
Water Oak Tree Care
Water oaks must be trained when young to prevent the crotch from splitting due to poor collar formation and the weight of the side limbs. Young trees should be trained to a central trunk for best plant health. The rapid growth of the plant contributes to its weak wood, which is often hollow by its 40th year. Provide young trees with plenty of water to ensure good cell development and thick wood. Oaksare host to a number of pest and disease issues. Caterpillars, scale, galls, and borers are the insects of most concern.
Oak wilt is the most serious disease but many fungal issues are often present. These might include powdery mildew, canker, leaf blight, anthracnose, and fungal leaf spot. A common deficiency in iron causes chlorosisand yellowing of the leaves. Most issues aren’t serious and can be combated by good cultural care.
Water Oak Information
Quercus nigra is a tolerant plant that can grow in partial shade or sun to full sun. These elegant trees are deciduous to semi-evergreen and an important part of ecosystems from New Jersey to Florida and west to Texas. Water oaks grow at a fantastic rate of up to 24 inches per year. Caring for a water oak is easy, but it is a weak wooded tree prone to many diseases and insect pests.
Water oaks produce copious quantities of acorns, which are a favorite food of squirrels, raccoons, turkeys, pigs, ducks, quail and deer. Deer also browse young stems and twigs in winter. The trees tend to develop hollow stems, which are habitat for a host of insects and animals. In the wild, it is found in lowlands, flood plains and near rivers and streams. It has the capacity to thrive in compact or loose soil, provided there is adequate moisture. Water oaks may be short lived but their rapid growth makes them an excellent shade tree for decades. However, special water oak tree care when young is essential to produce a strong scaffold. Both pruning and staking may be necessary to help the tree develop a sturdy skeleton.
Growing Water Oak Trees
Water oaks are so adaptable they are often used as residential, reclamation or even drought zone trees. They may be planted in areas with pollution and poor air quality and the tree still thrives. The trees are reliably hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 6 to 9. Water oaks get 50 to 80 feet tall with a nice cone shaped crown. Bark ages to brownish black and thickly scaled. Male flowers are insignificant but female catkins appear in spring and become wide ½ inch long acorns. The leaves are oblong, spatulate and deeply tri-lobed or entire. Foliage may grow 2 to 4 inches long. These trees are extremely adaptable and, once established, caring for a water oak is reduced to handling any pest or disease issues and providing supplemental water during extremely dry periods.
Water Oak Tree Care
Water oaks must be trained when young to prevent the crotch from splitting due to poor collar formation and the weight of the side limbs. Young trees should be trained to a central trunk for best plant health. The rapid growth of the plant contributes to its weak wood, which is often hollow by its 40th year. Provide young trees with plenty of water to ensure good cell development and thick wood. Oaksare host to a number of pest and disease issues. Caterpillars, scale, galls, and borers are the insects of most concern.
Oak wilt is the most serious disease but many fungal issues are often present. These might include powdery mildew, canker, leaf blight, anthracnose, and fungal leaf spot. A common deficiency in iron causes chlorosisand yellowing of the leaves. Most issues aren’t serious and can be combated by good cultural care.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
“Today’s mighty oak is just yesterday’s nut, that held its ground,” said author David Icke. Pin oak trees are mighty oaks that have held their ground as a fast growing, native shade tree in the eastern part of the United States for hundreds of years. Yes, that’s right, I did just use “fast growing” and “oak” in the same sentence. Not all oaks are as slow growing as we generally think they are. Continue reading to learn about pin oak growth rate and using pin oaks in landscapes.
Pin Oak Information
Native east of the Mississippi River and hardy in zones 4-8, Quercus palustris, or pin oak, is a large full, ovate shaped tree. With a growth rate of 24 inches or more per year, it is one of the faster growing oak trees. Tolerant of wet soils, pin oak trees usually grow 60-80 feet high and 25-40 feet wide – though in the right soil conditions (moist, rich, acidic soil), pin oaks have been known to grow over 100 feet tall. A member of the red oak family, pin oaks will not grow in areas of high elevation or on slopes. They are usually found in damp lowlands and near rivers, streams or lakes. Pin oak acorns are often dispersed far from the parent plant and germinated by spring flooding. These acorns, as well as the tree’s leaves, bark and flowers, are a valuable food source to squirrels, deer, rabbitsand various game and songbirds.
Growing Pin Oaks in Landscapes
During the summer, pin oak trees have dark green, glossy leaves that turn a deep red to bronze color in the fall, and hang on throughout winter. The beautiful foliage hangs from thick, dense branches. Having a rather ovate shape that turns more pyramidal with age, pin oaks’ lower branches hang down, while the middle branches reach out horizontally and the upper branches grow upright. These pendulous lower branches can make pin oak a not-so-good choice for street trees or small yards. What makes pin oak an excellent tree for large landscapes is its quick growth, beautiful fall color and winter interest. It also has the ability to provide dense shade, and its shallow fibrous roots make planting a pin oak tree easy. On young trees, the bark is smooth, with a red-gray color. As the tree ages, the bark becomes darker gray and deeply fissured.
Pin oaks can develop iron chlorosis if soil pH is too high or alkaline, which causes leaves to turn yellow and drop prematurely. To correct this, use acidic or iron rich soil amendments or tree fertilizers.
Other problems pin oaks can develop are:
Gall
Scale
Bacterial leaf scorch
Oak wilt
Borers
Gypsy moth
infestations
Call a professional arborist if you suspect any of these conditions with your pin oak.
Pin Oak Information
Native east of the Mississippi River and hardy in zones 4-8, Quercus palustris, or pin oak, is a large full, ovate shaped tree. With a growth rate of 24 inches or more per year, it is one of the faster growing oak trees. Tolerant of wet soils, pin oak trees usually grow 60-80 feet high and 25-40 feet wide – though in the right soil conditions (moist, rich, acidic soil), pin oaks have been known to grow over 100 feet tall. A member of the red oak family, pin oaks will not grow in areas of high elevation or on slopes. They are usually found in damp lowlands and near rivers, streams or lakes. Pin oak acorns are often dispersed far from the parent plant and germinated by spring flooding. These acorns, as well as the tree’s leaves, bark and flowers, are a valuable food source to squirrels, deer, rabbitsand various game and songbirds.
Growing Pin Oaks in Landscapes
During the summer, pin oak trees have dark green, glossy leaves that turn a deep red to bronze color in the fall, and hang on throughout winter. The beautiful foliage hangs from thick, dense branches. Having a rather ovate shape that turns more pyramidal with age, pin oaks’ lower branches hang down, while the middle branches reach out horizontally and the upper branches grow upright. These pendulous lower branches can make pin oak a not-so-good choice for street trees or small yards. What makes pin oak an excellent tree for large landscapes is its quick growth, beautiful fall color and winter interest. It also has the ability to provide dense shade, and its shallow fibrous roots make planting a pin oak tree easy. On young trees, the bark is smooth, with a red-gray color. As the tree ages, the bark becomes darker gray and deeply fissured.
Pin oaks can develop iron chlorosis if soil pH is too high or alkaline, which causes leaves to turn yellow and drop prematurely. To correct this, use acidic or iron rich soil amendments or tree fertilizers.
Other problems pin oaks can develop are:
Gall
Scale
Bacterial leaf scorch
Oak wilt
Borers
Gypsy moth
infestations
Call a professional arborist if you suspect any of these conditions with your pin oak.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Willow oak trees are very popular shade and specimen trees. Because they are fast growing and fill out with an attractive, branching shape, they are a frequent choice in parks and along wide streets. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow a willow oak and willow oak tree care.
Willow Oak Information
Willow oak trees (Quercus phellos) are native to the United States. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 or 6a through 9b, making their range the whole of the west coast, most of the east coast, and the entire south and southwest.
The trees are fast growing. When they are young, they have a pyramidal shape, but as they mature their branches take on a wide, even spread. The lowest branches hang down somewhat toward the ground. The trees tend to reach a height of 60 to 75 feet (18-23 m.) with a spread of 40 to 50 feet (12-15 m.). The leaves, unlike other oak trees, are long, thin, and dark green, similar looking in appearance to willow trees. In the autumn, they turn yellow to bronze in color and eventually drop. The trees are monoecious and produce flowers (catkins) in the spring that can lead to some litter. The fruits are small acorns, no bigger than ½ an inch (1cm.) across.
Willow Oak Tree Care
Growing willow oak trees is easy and very rewarding. While they prefer moist, well-drained soil, they will thrive in almost any kind of soil and are wind, salt, and drought tolerant, making them popular in urban landscapes lining broad streets or filling in parking lot islands. They prefer full sun. They are, for the most part, resistant to both pests and diseases. Though they are drought tolerant, they will also perform well in soil that is perpetually wet. They’ve been used for decades as urban, street lining trees and have proven themselves to be up to the task.
It should be noted that in smaller areas, it may be best to avoid the tree, as its height can eventually overpower the area.
Willow Oak Information
Willow oak trees (Quercus phellos) are native to the United States. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 or 6a through 9b, making their range the whole of the west coast, most of the east coast, and the entire south and southwest.
The trees are fast growing. When they are young, they have a pyramidal shape, but as they mature their branches take on a wide, even spread. The lowest branches hang down somewhat toward the ground. The trees tend to reach a height of 60 to 75 feet (18-23 m.) with a spread of 40 to 50 feet (12-15 m.). The leaves, unlike other oak trees, are long, thin, and dark green, similar looking in appearance to willow trees. In the autumn, they turn yellow to bronze in color and eventually drop. The trees are monoecious and produce flowers (catkins) in the spring that can lead to some litter. The fruits are small acorns, no bigger than ½ an inch (1cm.) across.
Willow Oak Tree Care
Growing willow oak trees is easy and very rewarding. While they prefer moist, well-drained soil, they will thrive in almost any kind of soil and are wind, salt, and drought tolerant, making them popular in urban landscapes lining broad streets or filling in parking lot islands. They prefer full sun. They are, for the most part, resistant to both pests and diseases. Though they are drought tolerant, they will also perform well in soil that is perpetually wet. They’ve been used for decades as urban, street lining trees and have proven themselves to be up to the task.
It should be noted that in smaller areas, it may be best to avoid the tree, as its height can eventually overpower the area.
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成长记
DaviddelC
2017年09月01日
I'm going to buy a new planter since it's growing too fast for the one it is in.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Fruitless mulberry trees are popular landscaping trees. The reason that they are so popular is due to the fact that they are fast growing, have a lush canopy of dark green leaves and are tolerant of many urban conditions, plus, unlike their cousins the red and white mulberry tree, they do not make a mess with their fruit. Because of their popularity, many people become alarmed when the mulberry tree leaves start turning yellow. There are many reasons fruitless mulberry tree leaves turn yellow.
Mulberry Leaf Spot
Mulberry leaf spot is caused by a type of fungi that attacks the leaves of the tree. Fruitless mulberry trees are particularly susceptible to it. Mulberry leaf spot can be identified by the leaves growing somewhat malformed, yellowed and having black spots.
Mulberry leaf spot can be treated with fungicide. Even without treatment, fruitless mulberry trees can normally survive this disease. The important thing to remember is that you will need to clean up and dispose of all the fallen leaves in the fall or winter. The mulberry leaf spot fungi over winter on the fallen leaves and in the spring, the rain will splash the fungi back onto the tree, which re-infects it for the next year. Removing and destroying the fallen leaves will help prevent this.
Not Enough Water
Fruitless mulberry trees grow rapidly and their root systems can grow to a massive size. What this means is that what may have been enough water one year will not be enough water the next. When the tree does not get enough water, the mulberry gets yellow leaves. A mulberry tree may be particularly prone to this during periods of drought when the leaves will be transpiring water faster than the roots can take it up.. The best course of action is too water the tree deeply about once a week. Watering deeply is better for the tree than multiple shallow waterings. A deep watering will get the water down into the root system so that more of the roots will be able to take water up at the same rate as the leaves transpire it.
Cotton Root Rot
Cotton root rot is another fungus that can cause a mulberry to have yellow leaves. Cotton root rot is characterized by yellowing leaves followed by wilting. The leaves will not fall off the plant though. Unfortunately, by the time the symptoms of cotton root rot are seen, the tree has most likely been damaged beyond repair and will most likely die within a year. Calling an arborist to look at the situation is advised due to the fact that cotton root rot will continue to spread in the soil and kill other surrounding plants and trees.
Hopefully your mulberry tree will recover from whatever problem is causing the mulberry tree leaves to turn yellow. Fruitless mulberry trees are amazingly resilient and yours should bounce back in no time at all.
Mulberry Leaf Spot
Mulberry leaf spot is caused by a type of fungi that attacks the leaves of the tree. Fruitless mulberry trees are particularly susceptible to it. Mulberry leaf spot can be identified by the leaves growing somewhat malformed, yellowed and having black spots.
Mulberry leaf spot can be treated with fungicide. Even without treatment, fruitless mulberry trees can normally survive this disease. The important thing to remember is that you will need to clean up and dispose of all the fallen leaves in the fall or winter. The mulberry leaf spot fungi over winter on the fallen leaves and in the spring, the rain will splash the fungi back onto the tree, which re-infects it for the next year. Removing and destroying the fallen leaves will help prevent this.
Not Enough Water
Fruitless mulberry trees grow rapidly and their root systems can grow to a massive size. What this means is that what may have been enough water one year will not be enough water the next. When the tree does not get enough water, the mulberry gets yellow leaves. A mulberry tree may be particularly prone to this during periods of drought when the leaves will be transpiring water faster than the roots can take it up.. The best course of action is too water the tree deeply about once a week. Watering deeply is better for the tree than multiple shallow waterings. A deep watering will get the water down into the root system so that more of the roots will be able to take water up at the same rate as the leaves transpire it.
Cotton Root Rot
Cotton root rot is another fungus that can cause a mulberry to have yellow leaves. Cotton root rot is characterized by yellowing leaves followed by wilting. The leaves will not fall off the plant though. Unfortunately, by the time the symptoms of cotton root rot are seen, the tree has most likely been damaged beyond repair and will most likely die within a year. Calling an arborist to look at the situation is advised due to the fact that cotton root rot will continue to spread in the soil and kill other surrounding plants and trees.
Hopefully your mulberry tree will recover from whatever problem is causing the mulberry tree leaves to turn yellow. Fruitless mulberry trees are amazingly resilient and yours should bounce back in no time at all.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Originating in Japan, contorted mulberry trees (Morus alba) thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. This deciduous, rapidly growing plant can easily reach 20 to 30 feet high and 15 to 20 feet wide if not controlled. This tree is also known as a contorted “Unryu” mulberry.
Contorted Mulberry Info
The leaves of this attractive tree are a light green color and somewhat glossy and heart-shaped. They turn yellow in the fall. From mid to late summer, small yellow flowers bloom followed by fruit similar in shape and size to a blackberry. Fruit is white and ripens to a pink or light violet. Depending on variety, it can take up to ten years for a tree to start producing fruit. A distinguishing feature of this interesting tree is the contorted or twisted branches that are often used in flower arrangements, which help to give these plants the name ‘corkscrew mulberries'.
Growing Contorted Unryu Mulberries
Many people plant contorted mulberries as an ornamental plant in the home landscape. They bring great interest during all garden seasons and draw wildlife with their fruit and foliage. Mulberry trees do best in full to part sun and require ample water while they are establishing, although they are drought tolerant once roots are established. Some people plant varieties in large containers where their growth can be controlled. They make lovely patio plants and are popular because of their fast growth.
Care of Contorted Mulberry
Mulberry trees need space to spread out; 15 feet between trees is recommended. Provide supplemental water during dry conditions. If the soil conditions become too dry, fruit drop will occur. An annual feeding using a 10-10-10 fertilizer will keep the tree at its best. Pruning is only necessary to remove dead or damaged limbs and to limit crowding and control growth.
Harvesting and Using Fruit
Pick fruit early in the morning when it is at the peak of ripeness. It will be deep red to almost black when it is ready. Spread a sheet on the ground and gently shake the tree. The fruit will fall to the ground. Use immediately or wash, dry and freeze. This delicious berry is great for jams, pies or when eaten fresh.
Contorted Mulberry Info
The leaves of this attractive tree are a light green color and somewhat glossy and heart-shaped. They turn yellow in the fall. From mid to late summer, small yellow flowers bloom followed by fruit similar in shape and size to a blackberry. Fruit is white and ripens to a pink or light violet. Depending on variety, it can take up to ten years for a tree to start producing fruit. A distinguishing feature of this interesting tree is the contorted or twisted branches that are often used in flower arrangements, which help to give these plants the name ‘corkscrew mulberries'.
Growing Contorted Unryu Mulberries
Many people plant contorted mulberries as an ornamental plant in the home landscape. They bring great interest during all garden seasons and draw wildlife with their fruit and foliage. Mulberry trees do best in full to part sun and require ample water while they are establishing, although they are drought tolerant once roots are established. Some people plant varieties in large containers where their growth can be controlled. They make lovely patio plants and are popular because of their fast growth.
Care of Contorted Mulberry
Mulberry trees need space to spread out; 15 feet between trees is recommended. Provide supplemental water during dry conditions. If the soil conditions become too dry, fruit drop will occur. An annual feeding using a 10-10-10 fertilizer will keep the tree at its best. Pruning is only necessary to remove dead or damaged limbs and to limit crowding and control growth.
Harvesting and Using Fruit
Pick fruit early in the morning when it is at the peak of ripeness. It will be deep red to almost black when it is ready. Spread a sheet on the ground and gently shake the tree. The fruit will fall to the ground. Use immediately or wash, dry and freeze. This delicious berry is great for jams, pies or when eaten fresh.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Mulberry (Morus spp.) trees are fast-growing, deciduous trees known for their variable leaf shapes, their delicious berries, and the terrible stains those berries can make if they hit the sidewalk rather than someone’s mouth. Some have red fruit while others produce tasty purple or white fruit. A fruitless cultivar exists for those not interested in those yummy, messy berries. Mulberry trees can reach 30’-70’ depending on the species. They are fantastic shade trees. Due to their quick growth, pruning mulberry trees is often necessary.
Mulberry Trimming
Proper mulberry tree pruning techniques depend on your landscape goals. If you want to create a shady spot that provides food and shelter for birds as well as biomass for your compost bin, only cut out small, dead, diseased, crossed-over and oddly oriented branches. In this case, mulberry trimming can be done every two to three years.
If your primary goal is fruit production for human consumption, then mulberry trimming should be done every year to control size and to keep most of the fruit within easy reach. Note that mulberries bloom and fruit on the previous year’s growth, so extensive pruning will reduce fruit production. Pruning mulberry trees that are too large for their space is often executed via a technique called pollarding. With pollarding, all the smaller branches are removed annually to a selected area on larger scaffold branches. I don’t like to recommend pollarding because it is mostly done wrong. When the pollard form of mulberry tree pruning is done incorrectly, it can leave a tree that is unsafe, ugly and prone to disease.
How to Prune a Mulberry Tree
If you are wondering how to prune a mulberry tree, start with sharp, clean tools. Do not struggle while cutting through a branch. If this happens, your tool is too small. Use a hand pruner for cuts under 6” and loppers for cuts 1” to 2”. You can also use a good saw for cuts 1” and larger. Try not to cut branches larger than 2” in diameter. Mulberry trimming should not be done on large branches unless you accept the fact that large wounds don’t heal very quickly and leave open the door for pests and disease and heart rot. Pruning trees in pollard form should be started when the tree is quite young and the scaffold branches have grown to the height you wish for in the canopy. Always cut the smaller branches back to their base on the scaffold. A round callused knob will form over the years. Always cut to the knob but not into it. Do not leave a stub that is more than ½” at the knob. Do some research on pollarding before you cut the tree. If you inherit a large tree that was pollarded in the past but not maintained properly over the years, hire a certified arborist to get it back into shape.
When to Prune Mulberries
Mulberry tree pruning is easiest when the tree is dormant. You can see the structure of the tree without it being obscured by leaves. Don’t prune when the weather is very cold. When the temperature is under 50 F. (10 C.), it is harder for the tree to seal off its wounds. A good time for mulberry trimming is in spring prior to the buds turning green.
Mulberry Trimming
Proper mulberry tree pruning techniques depend on your landscape goals. If you want to create a shady spot that provides food and shelter for birds as well as biomass for your compost bin, only cut out small, dead, diseased, crossed-over and oddly oriented branches. In this case, mulberry trimming can be done every two to three years.
If your primary goal is fruit production for human consumption, then mulberry trimming should be done every year to control size and to keep most of the fruit within easy reach. Note that mulberries bloom and fruit on the previous year’s growth, so extensive pruning will reduce fruit production. Pruning mulberry trees that are too large for their space is often executed via a technique called pollarding. With pollarding, all the smaller branches are removed annually to a selected area on larger scaffold branches. I don’t like to recommend pollarding because it is mostly done wrong. When the pollard form of mulberry tree pruning is done incorrectly, it can leave a tree that is unsafe, ugly and prone to disease.
How to Prune a Mulberry Tree
If you are wondering how to prune a mulberry tree, start with sharp, clean tools. Do not struggle while cutting through a branch. If this happens, your tool is too small. Use a hand pruner for cuts under 6” and loppers for cuts 1” to 2”. You can also use a good saw for cuts 1” and larger. Try not to cut branches larger than 2” in diameter. Mulberry trimming should not be done on large branches unless you accept the fact that large wounds don’t heal very quickly and leave open the door for pests and disease and heart rot. Pruning trees in pollard form should be started when the tree is quite young and the scaffold branches have grown to the height you wish for in the canopy. Always cut the smaller branches back to their base on the scaffold. A round callused knob will form over the years. Always cut to the knob but not into it. Do not leave a stub that is more than ½” at the knob. Do some research on pollarding before you cut the tree. If you inherit a large tree that was pollarded in the past but not maintained properly over the years, hire a certified arborist to get it back into shape.
When to Prune Mulberries
Mulberry tree pruning is easiest when the tree is dormant. You can see the structure of the tree without it being obscured by leaves. Don’t prune when the weather is very cold. When the temperature is under 50 F. (10 C.), it is harder for the tree to seal off its wounds. A good time for mulberry trimming is in spring prior to the buds turning green.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
The mulberry bush is not just a folkloric song lyric. You won’t find these sweet, tangy berries in the supermarket due to their short shelf life, but they are easy to grow, abundant, and fast growing, which makes them perfect for containers. If you’re interested in growing mulberries in containers, keep reading to find out how to grow a mulberry tree in a pot and other dwarf mulberry tree facts.
Dwarf Mulberry Tree Facts
Mulberries are suited to USDA zones 5-10. In the ground, mulberries grow into a large bush, but a container grown mulberry tree’s size can be kept smaller (2-6 feet tall) by pruning just after fruiting. Pruning a mulberry also encourages the plant to produce berries again, resulting in several crops throughout the growing season.
Mulberries may be female, male or bisexual. If you are growing from seed, you are more likely to get either a male or female. Commercially sold mulberries are bisexual or self-pollinating. The plant blooms in the early spring and is quickly followed by a dense crop of large juicy berries, about the size of a big blackberry. This berry is so prolific; it even yields well in its first year and may produce several crops.
The children’s song ‘Pop goes the weasel’ isn’t the mulberry’s only claim to fame. Mulberry foliage is the silkworm’s favorite food and has been cultivated for centuries specifically for this purpose. The practice of breeding silkworms for their raw silk production is called ‘sericulture’ and has been around for over 5,000 years in China. Mulberry trees also have long pliable branches perfect for weaving into baskets, fences, and screens. All these interesting uses aside, the number one reason for growing a mulberry is for its fruit. The luscious berries can be eaten fresh, dried, frozen or made into pies, jams, and frozen desserts. They can also be turned into wine or the juice can be used as a dye. Intrigued? So, how do you grow a mulberry tree in a pot and is there any special care needed of mulberries in pots?
Container Grown Mulberry Trees
There isn’t much in the way of special care for mulberries in pots. They are extremely forgiving plants. Full sun exposure will make your mulberry happiest. Interestingly, the tree will do quite well with wet roots, but it can also be drought tolerant once established. They are also frost tolerant, although it is best to mulch around the plants to protect the roots from freezing and thawing. Mulberries are tolerant of a variety of soils but when potting them, it’s best to use a good quality potting medium amended with some nutrient rich compost. Feed the tree at regular intervals during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer, liquid seaweed or water with compost tea. Allow the surface of the soil to dry between waterings and then saturate the soil.
You can prune ever-bearing varieties at any time to retard their growth. Otherwise, cut back leggy plants in the late winter or early spring. Berries are formed on new growth. Mulberries have little to no issue with foliage or root diseases. They are, however, susceptible to spider mites, whiteflies and mealybugs, but these are usually fairly easy to manage.
Dwarf Mulberry Tree Facts
Mulberries are suited to USDA zones 5-10. In the ground, mulberries grow into a large bush, but a container grown mulberry tree’s size can be kept smaller (2-6 feet tall) by pruning just after fruiting. Pruning a mulberry also encourages the plant to produce berries again, resulting in several crops throughout the growing season.
Mulberries may be female, male or bisexual. If you are growing from seed, you are more likely to get either a male or female. Commercially sold mulberries are bisexual or self-pollinating. The plant blooms in the early spring and is quickly followed by a dense crop of large juicy berries, about the size of a big blackberry. This berry is so prolific; it even yields well in its first year and may produce several crops.
The children’s song ‘Pop goes the weasel’ isn’t the mulberry’s only claim to fame. Mulberry foliage is the silkworm’s favorite food and has been cultivated for centuries specifically for this purpose. The practice of breeding silkworms for their raw silk production is called ‘sericulture’ and has been around for over 5,000 years in China. Mulberry trees also have long pliable branches perfect for weaving into baskets, fences, and screens. All these interesting uses aside, the number one reason for growing a mulberry is for its fruit. The luscious berries can be eaten fresh, dried, frozen or made into pies, jams, and frozen desserts. They can also be turned into wine or the juice can be used as a dye. Intrigued? So, how do you grow a mulberry tree in a pot and is there any special care needed of mulberries in pots?
Container Grown Mulberry Trees
There isn’t much in the way of special care for mulberries in pots. They are extremely forgiving plants. Full sun exposure will make your mulberry happiest. Interestingly, the tree will do quite well with wet roots, but it can also be drought tolerant once established. They are also frost tolerant, although it is best to mulch around the plants to protect the roots from freezing and thawing. Mulberries are tolerant of a variety of soils but when potting them, it’s best to use a good quality potting medium amended with some nutrient rich compost. Feed the tree at regular intervals during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer, liquid seaweed or water with compost tea. Allow the surface of the soil to dry between waterings and then saturate the soil.
You can prune ever-bearing varieties at any time to retard their growth. Otherwise, cut back leggy plants in the late winter or early spring. Berries are formed on new growth. Mulberries have little to no issue with foliage or root diseases. They are, however, susceptible to spider mites, whiteflies and mealybugs, but these are usually fairly easy to manage.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
The problem with growing mulberry trees is the berries. They create a mess on the ground beneath the trees and stain everything they come in contact with. In addition, the birds that eat the berries disburse the seeds, and the species has become invasive in the wild. Fruitless mulberry trees (Morus alba ‘Fruitless’) are just as appealing as the fruited varieties, but without the mess or the invasive potential. So what is a fruitless mulberry tree? A fruitless mulberry tree is an excellent choice for a medium to large shade tree in home landscapes. It grows 20 to 60 feet tall with a dense canopy as much as 45 feet wide. This handsome tree has dark green foliage in summer which turns yellow before it drops in fall.
How to Grow a Fruitless Mulberry Tree
When growing fruitless mulberry trees, you should plant the trees in full sun or partial shade. You’ll also want to plant the trees at least 6 feet from sidewalks, driveways and foundations because their strong roots can lift and crack cement and pavement. The trees tolerate almost any type of soil, but do best in a well-drained, loamy soil. Trees benefit from staking the first year. Young trees tend to be top-heavy and the trunks snap easily in strong winds. If the stake is left in place more than a year, it may do more harm than good.
Fruitless Mulberry Care
Growing fruitless mulberry trees is easy because the trees require very little care. Once established it withstands both drought and extended flooding, but it will grow faster if watered during dry spells. The tree doesn’t need fertilizer until its second year. A 2-inch layer of compost in spring is ideal. Spread the compost under the canopy and a few feet beyond it. If you want to use a granular fertilizer instead, choose one with a ratio of about 3:1:1.
Pruning Fruitless Mulberry
Pruning fruitless mulberry trees is another factor of fruitless mulberry care. Mature trees seldom need pruning, but you may need to shape young trees and remove or shorten branches that droop too close to the ground. The best time to prune mulberries is in winter after the leaves have dropped. Remove broken or diseased branches any time of year.
How to Grow a Fruitless Mulberry Tree
When growing fruitless mulberry trees, you should plant the trees in full sun or partial shade. You’ll also want to plant the trees at least 6 feet from sidewalks, driveways and foundations because their strong roots can lift and crack cement and pavement. The trees tolerate almost any type of soil, but do best in a well-drained, loamy soil. Trees benefit from staking the first year. Young trees tend to be top-heavy and the trunks snap easily in strong winds. If the stake is left in place more than a year, it may do more harm than good.
Fruitless Mulberry Care
Growing fruitless mulberry trees is easy because the trees require very little care. Once established it withstands both drought and extended flooding, but it will grow faster if watered during dry spells. The tree doesn’t need fertilizer until its second year. A 2-inch layer of compost in spring is ideal. Spread the compost under the canopy and a few feet beyond it. If you want to use a granular fertilizer instead, choose one with a ratio of about 3:1:1.
Pruning Fruitless Mulberry
Pruning fruitless mulberry trees is another factor of fruitless mulberry care. Mature trees seldom need pruning, but you may need to shape young trees and remove or shorten branches that droop too close to the ground. The best time to prune mulberries is in winter after the leaves have dropped. Remove broken or diseased branches any time of year.
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