文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月01日
Corn plants (Dracaena deremensis) are quite popular as houseplants thanks to their attractive foliage and hardy nature. They’re easy to grow in containers or in the garden in the right climate. These plants can grow quite tall in the wild, but they stay at a manageable size when kept indoors. They feature rosettes of sword-shaped green leaves that can grow to around 2 feet long. Tiny yellow flowers will bloom periodically, but flowers on indoor plants are rather rare. Spring is the best time for planting, though you can typically pot a nursery plant indoors at any time of year. These plants are fairly slow growers and will naturally lose their lower leaves over time while they send up new ones on top.
Botanical Name Dracaena deremensis
Common Names Corn plant, dracaena, striped dracaena
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 15–50 ft. tall, 3–10 ft. wide (outdoors), 4–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Corn Plant Care
Overall, caring for Dracaena deremensis is simple, and even beginner gardeners should have success. Regular watering will be your main task for these low-maintenance plants, along with feeding for half of the year.
Corn plants generally don’t have many problems with pests or diseases. You also won’t have to do much in the way of pruning, though you can prune off any foliage that becomes discolored or damaged for aesthetic purposes. You also can prune off the top of your plant if it becomes too tall for your preference. This will encourage bushier growth. If you’re growing your plant in a container, make sure the pot has ample drainage holes. Once the roots have grown to fill the space of the pot, replant your corn plant into the next pot size up using fresh potting mix.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like filtered sunlight. Direct sun, especially hot afternoon sun, can burn the leaves and cause the plant to wilt. Indoors, place your plant near a window where it can get bright, indirect light. While these plants can tolerate somewhat shady conditions, too little light can cause the leaves to lose their bright colors and not grow in size to their fullest potential.
Soil
An organically rich, loose soil is ideal for corn plants. The soil must have good drainage, as the roots are prone to rotting in soggy soil. A quality commercial potting mix is generally fine for container plants.
Water
Water regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall) to keep the soil evenly moist. In the winter you can back off on watering a little bit. But don’t ever allow the soil to dry out completely. If you stick your finger in the soil and feel it’s dry, then it’s time to water. Brown and dry leaf tips are a telltale sign that you’ve allowed the soil to dry out too much. It’s best to use non-fluorinated water, such as distilled water or rainwater, on corn plants because they’re sensitive to fluoride. Too much can cause the leaves to turn yellow or brown.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical plants like a warm, humid climate. They grow best in temperatures that are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t allow your plant to have prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, as this can damage or kill it. Humidity above 40% is ideal. Air that’s too dry can cause brown, dry leaf tips. If you notice this, you can occasionally mist the plant to raise humidity or put a potted plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water, making sure the bottom of the pot isn’t touching the water (as this can rot the roots).
Fertilizer
These plants aren't heavy feeders. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer, following label instructions. No fertilization is necessary in the fall and winter.
Corn Plant Varieties
Here are some popular varieties within this species:
Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’: This plant features stiff leaves with green and white stripes.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’: This plant has solid dark green leaves and also comes in a compact variety (‘Janet Craig Compacta’) whose leaves are only up to 8 inches long.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Lemon Lime’: Leaves that are a mix of cream, yellow-green, and lime green stripes are indicative of this variety.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Limelight’: Leaves start out yellow-green but then mature to a light lime green.
Botanical Name Dracaena deremensis
Common Names Corn plant, dracaena, striped dracaena
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 15–50 ft. tall, 3–10 ft. wide (outdoors), 4–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Corn Plant Care
Overall, caring for Dracaena deremensis is simple, and even beginner gardeners should have success. Regular watering will be your main task for these low-maintenance plants, along with feeding for half of the year.
Corn plants generally don’t have many problems with pests or diseases. You also won’t have to do much in the way of pruning, though you can prune off any foliage that becomes discolored or damaged for aesthetic purposes. You also can prune off the top of your plant if it becomes too tall for your preference. This will encourage bushier growth. If you’re growing your plant in a container, make sure the pot has ample drainage holes. Once the roots have grown to fill the space of the pot, replant your corn plant into the next pot size up using fresh potting mix.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like filtered sunlight. Direct sun, especially hot afternoon sun, can burn the leaves and cause the plant to wilt. Indoors, place your plant near a window where it can get bright, indirect light. While these plants can tolerate somewhat shady conditions, too little light can cause the leaves to lose their bright colors and not grow in size to their fullest potential.
Soil
An organically rich, loose soil is ideal for corn plants. The soil must have good drainage, as the roots are prone to rotting in soggy soil. A quality commercial potting mix is generally fine for container plants.
Water
Water regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall) to keep the soil evenly moist. In the winter you can back off on watering a little bit. But don’t ever allow the soil to dry out completely. If you stick your finger in the soil and feel it’s dry, then it’s time to water. Brown and dry leaf tips are a telltale sign that you’ve allowed the soil to dry out too much. It’s best to use non-fluorinated water, such as distilled water or rainwater, on corn plants because they’re sensitive to fluoride. Too much can cause the leaves to turn yellow or brown.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical plants like a warm, humid climate. They grow best in temperatures that are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t allow your plant to have prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, as this can damage or kill it. Humidity above 40% is ideal. Air that’s too dry can cause brown, dry leaf tips. If you notice this, you can occasionally mist the plant to raise humidity or put a potted plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water, making sure the bottom of the pot isn’t touching the water (as this can rot the roots).
Fertilizer
These plants aren't heavy feeders. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer, following label instructions. No fertilization is necessary in the fall and winter.
Corn Plant Varieties
Here are some popular varieties within this species:
Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’: This plant features stiff leaves with green and white stripes.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’: This plant has solid dark green leaves and also comes in a compact variety (‘Janet Craig Compacta’) whose leaves are only up to 8 inches long.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Lemon Lime’: Leaves that are a mix of cream, yellow-green, and lime green stripes are indicative of this variety.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Limelight’: Leaves start out yellow-green but then mature to a light lime green.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月25日
Coleus, made popular as Victorian-era bedding plants, have made a huge comeback thanks to the all-season color the lovely foliage offers, whether it's planted in full sun or shade. Coleus plants are characterized by square stems and leaves situated directly opposite one another. Though it produces tiny blue to white flowers, they are insignificant and are often pinched off to conserve the plant's energy. The foliage can vary widely in shape, style, and color. Breeders regularly produce new introductions with even more unusual colors and patterns.
Planted outdoors in early spring, coleus quickly grows to full size in a single season. Large swaths of assorted coleus plantings that take on a quilt-like appearance can look luscious in a landscape or garden beds. Its vividly colored foliage also adds a decorative touch to window boxes, outdoor container gardens, and hanging baskets. Coleus is toxic to pets.1
Common Name Coleus
Botanical Name Plectranthus scutellarioides
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Herbacious perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Mature Size 6-36 in. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Part shade to full shade
Soil Type Rich, moist, loose soil, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Blue to white
Hardiness Zones 10-11 (USDA); grown as an annual everywhere
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to animals
Coleus Care
Coleus is a tender tropical plant, native to areas bordering the equator. Warmer zones can grow coleus as garden perennials, where they can grow to resemble small shrubs with thick woody stems. Though it loves the heat, it will happily grow as an annual in just about any garden, where it's normally used as an annual bedding plant or in containers.
However, coleus plants are not at all frost-tolerant, so don’t rush to get your plants in the ground. Wait until temperatures remain reliably above 60 degrees Fahrenheit before you move them out in the garden. They will do best in rich, loose, well-drained soil, so amending with compost or adding perlite to soil before planting is advised unless you have very good soil.
Light
Coleus is a classic part-shade to full-shade plant, but light exposure depends on the variety. The old-fashioned seed-grown coleus does best in part shade to full shade, but newer cultivars, like the Wizard series, perform well in full sun. Too much sun can scorch leaves and cause color to fade in most classic coleus varieties. Coleus performs best with filtered morning sun and shade in the afternoon, especially in hot climates.
Plants grown in containers indoors usually get plenty of light from indirect sun during the warmer (brighter) months but may need to be exposed to filtered sunlight during the winter. It doesn't take much, but they do need some light.
Soil
Coleus prefers consistently moist, rich, well-draining soil. Before planting, amend the soil with compost or another organic material. For potted plants, any good-quality potting mix will work fine. Make sure to choose a container with drainage holes.
Container-grown coleus loves the loose texture of potting soil, and it always helps to start with a quality mix with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Provide drainage in the pot to ensure the soil isn't constantly wet, which can lead to root rot.
Water
Coleus plants grow best in soil that is consistently moist but not soggy. The soil should not remain wet all the time, but long dry spells will slow the plants’ growth, and the leaves will start to turn brown around the edges. Let the soil dry out a bit between waterings, and water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Mulch will help the soil retain moisture longer, but don't use cedar mulch, which can be toxic to coleus. Also, don't let the mulch touch the stems, as it can promote rot and hide slugs.
Coleus in containers may need watering twice a day during hot weather. Outdoor containers may require water twice a day. Indoor plants need water only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, coleus thrives in hot, humid conditions. In temperate climates, the barest hint of frost will spell the end of the plants. Move plants indoors or protect them on chilly nights when temperatures dip into the 50s. Make sure to take cuttings for propagation before the weather turns cold.
Keep indoor plants away from air conditioner vents and other cold spots. In dry climates, the plants will like some humidity from a humidifier or a bathroom environment. To take potted plants outdoors in spring, wait until the temperature is 70 degrees Fahrenheit or warmer.
Fertilizer
If you have rich soil, you may not need to feed coleus plants at all. If you have poor soil, add a balanced slow-release fertilizer in the bed. You’ll get the best color from your coleus leaves if you go easy on the fertilizer.
Feed container-grown plants once a month with a water-soluble fertilizer. Container plants generally need more feeding than garden plants because frequent watering washes nutrients from the potting soil.
Types of Coleus
There are hundreds of coleus cultivars available with various colors, leaf textures, and patterns. Additional cultivars are developed each year, and garden centers tend to focus on a select few that have proven to be most popular among their customers. You may have to shop several different nurseries or online retailers to find the most unique varieties. Some types to look for include:
Wizard series: These are small 12- to 14-inch plants in standard color mixes. They are known to be very easy to grow from seeds.
Kong series: These coleus varieties have huge 6-inch leaves on big 2-foot tall plants. They are quite sensitive to direct sunlight.
'Black Dragon': This unusual variety has deep burgundy leaves with ruffled edges. They grow to 18 inches tall.
Premium Sun series: These cultivars are bred to tolerate full sun.
Fairway series: These are dwarf coleus varieties, only 6 to 10 inches tall, in a variety of leaf patterns and colors.
Pruning
To get full, bushy plants, pinch out the growing tips when the plants are about 6 inches tall. Pinch under the flower buds if you want the plant to spend its energy on leaves and not flowers and seeds.
Plants that are not pruned tend to get leggy and lose their nice shape and dense foliage. If they remain leggy, the plants may need more sun. This is most common with indoor plants during winter so give them a bit more sun or, if necessary, artificial light.
Propagating Coleus
Favorite coleus plants can easily be propagated by taking stem cuttings and rooting them.
With a sharp shearing scissor, cut a 4- to 6-inch long stem tip. Make sure to cut right beneath a leaf node along the stem. Remove all leaves from the lower half of the cutting.
Dip the end of the stem in a rooting hormone compound, then plant it in a moist potting mix so the soil covers the exposed leaf nodes.
Place the container in a plastic bag, making sure the plastic doesn't touch the cutting.
Place the covered cutting in a bright, warm location until new roots develop, which will take two to three weeks.
Remove the plastic and continue to grow the new plant in a bright, warm location.
Some of the more unusual cultivars might be reluctant to root, so with these, take plenty of cuttings to ensure that you get enough viable plants.
How to Grow Coleus From Seed
Modern coleus varieties sold in stores are hybrids that are almost always grown from cuttings potted up for nursery sale, but you can still find seeds of many varieties. If you will be planting the coleus in the outdoor garden, start seeds indoors about eight to 10 weeks before your last frost date.
It's easy to grow coleus from seed. It can take as long as 21 days for the seeds to germinate, so be patient. Once seedlings appear, it will take three or four weeks of warm weather to help turn them into fully grown plants.
Lightly sprinkle the tiny seeds over a tray filled with potting mix, then lightly cover with a sprinkling of soil.
Cover the tray with plastic and set it in a bright, warm spot until seedlings sprout, which takes about two weeks.
Remove the plastic and continue to grow the seedlings while keeping the soil moist.
When two sets of true leaves appear on the seedlings, carefully transplant them into their own pots and continue growing them until outdoor planting time. Make sure to harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Potting and Repotting Coleus
To grow coleus in a container, start with a large pot that the plant can grow into, otherwise, you'll be repotting this fast-growing plant before you know it.
In mixed container plantings, coleus usually serves as an upright "thriller" plant in the center of the container, surrounded by "fillers" and "spillers." In colder zones, container plants are sometimes moved indoors to overwinter.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Groundhogs and young rabbits love coleus. If you can protect your plants early in the season, these pests will usually turn their attention to other plants by mid-summer. Watch out for mealybugs, aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, and slugs.
Coleus is not usually bothered by diseases unless the weather turns cool and damp. If that happens, expect to see signs of fungal diseases, such as mildew. Be careful that the plant enjoys good drainage, because standing water can lead to fungal root rot and stem rot.
FAQ
Is coleus easy to care for?
Coleus is very easy to care for. If you plant coleus in containers, you may want to bring it indoors during the winter to help it survive.
How fast does coleus grow?
Coleus quickly grows to full size, potentially up to 36 inches high, in a single season.
Can coleus be grown indoors?
Coleus makes a good container plant that can even be grown indoors.
Planted outdoors in early spring, coleus quickly grows to full size in a single season. Large swaths of assorted coleus plantings that take on a quilt-like appearance can look luscious in a landscape or garden beds. Its vividly colored foliage also adds a decorative touch to window boxes, outdoor container gardens, and hanging baskets. Coleus is toxic to pets.1
Common Name Coleus
Botanical Name Plectranthus scutellarioides
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Herbacious perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Mature Size 6-36 in. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Part shade to full shade
Soil Type Rich, moist, loose soil, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Blue to white
Hardiness Zones 10-11 (USDA); grown as an annual everywhere
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to animals
Coleus Care
Coleus is a tender tropical plant, native to areas bordering the equator. Warmer zones can grow coleus as garden perennials, where they can grow to resemble small shrubs with thick woody stems. Though it loves the heat, it will happily grow as an annual in just about any garden, where it's normally used as an annual bedding plant or in containers.
However, coleus plants are not at all frost-tolerant, so don’t rush to get your plants in the ground. Wait until temperatures remain reliably above 60 degrees Fahrenheit before you move them out in the garden. They will do best in rich, loose, well-drained soil, so amending with compost or adding perlite to soil before planting is advised unless you have very good soil.
Light
Coleus is a classic part-shade to full-shade plant, but light exposure depends on the variety. The old-fashioned seed-grown coleus does best in part shade to full shade, but newer cultivars, like the Wizard series, perform well in full sun. Too much sun can scorch leaves and cause color to fade in most classic coleus varieties. Coleus performs best with filtered morning sun and shade in the afternoon, especially in hot climates.
Plants grown in containers indoors usually get plenty of light from indirect sun during the warmer (brighter) months but may need to be exposed to filtered sunlight during the winter. It doesn't take much, but they do need some light.
Soil
Coleus prefers consistently moist, rich, well-draining soil. Before planting, amend the soil with compost or another organic material. For potted plants, any good-quality potting mix will work fine. Make sure to choose a container with drainage holes.
Container-grown coleus loves the loose texture of potting soil, and it always helps to start with a quality mix with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Provide drainage in the pot to ensure the soil isn't constantly wet, which can lead to root rot.
Water
Coleus plants grow best in soil that is consistently moist but not soggy. The soil should not remain wet all the time, but long dry spells will slow the plants’ growth, and the leaves will start to turn brown around the edges. Let the soil dry out a bit between waterings, and water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Mulch will help the soil retain moisture longer, but don't use cedar mulch, which can be toxic to coleus. Also, don't let the mulch touch the stems, as it can promote rot and hide slugs.
Coleus in containers may need watering twice a day during hot weather. Outdoor containers may require water twice a day. Indoor plants need water only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, coleus thrives in hot, humid conditions. In temperate climates, the barest hint of frost will spell the end of the plants. Move plants indoors or protect them on chilly nights when temperatures dip into the 50s. Make sure to take cuttings for propagation before the weather turns cold.
Keep indoor plants away from air conditioner vents and other cold spots. In dry climates, the plants will like some humidity from a humidifier or a bathroom environment. To take potted plants outdoors in spring, wait until the temperature is 70 degrees Fahrenheit or warmer.
Fertilizer
If you have rich soil, you may not need to feed coleus plants at all. If you have poor soil, add a balanced slow-release fertilizer in the bed. You’ll get the best color from your coleus leaves if you go easy on the fertilizer.
Feed container-grown plants once a month with a water-soluble fertilizer. Container plants generally need more feeding than garden plants because frequent watering washes nutrients from the potting soil.
Types of Coleus
There are hundreds of coleus cultivars available with various colors, leaf textures, and patterns. Additional cultivars are developed each year, and garden centers tend to focus on a select few that have proven to be most popular among their customers. You may have to shop several different nurseries or online retailers to find the most unique varieties. Some types to look for include:
Wizard series: These are small 12- to 14-inch plants in standard color mixes. They are known to be very easy to grow from seeds.
Kong series: These coleus varieties have huge 6-inch leaves on big 2-foot tall plants. They are quite sensitive to direct sunlight.
'Black Dragon': This unusual variety has deep burgundy leaves with ruffled edges. They grow to 18 inches tall.
Premium Sun series: These cultivars are bred to tolerate full sun.
Fairway series: These are dwarf coleus varieties, only 6 to 10 inches tall, in a variety of leaf patterns and colors.
Pruning
To get full, bushy plants, pinch out the growing tips when the plants are about 6 inches tall. Pinch under the flower buds if you want the plant to spend its energy on leaves and not flowers and seeds.
Plants that are not pruned tend to get leggy and lose their nice shape and dense foliage. If they remain leggy, the plants may need more sun. This is most common with indoor plants during winter so give them a bit more sun or, if necessary, artificial light.
Propagating Coleus
Favorite coleus plants can easily be propagated by taking stem cuttings and rooting them.
With a sharp shearing scissor, cut a 4- to 6-inch long stem tip. Make sure to cut right beneath a leaf node along the stem. Remove all leaves from the lower half of the cutting.
Dip the end of the stem in a rooting hormone compound, then plant it in a moist potting mix so the soil covers the exposed leaf nodes.
Place the container in a plastic bag, making sure the plastic doesn't touch the cutting.
Place the covered cutting in a bright, warm location until new roots develop, which will take two to three weeks.
Remove the plastic and continue to grow the new plant in a bright, warm location.
Some of the more unusual cultivars might be reluctant to root, so with these, take plenty of cuttings to ensure that you get enough viable plants.
How to Grow Coleus From Seed
Modern coleus varieties sold in stores are hybrids that are almost always grown from cuttings potted up for nursery sale, but you can still find seeds of many varieties. If you will be planting the coleus in the outdoor garden, start seeds indoors about eight to 10 weeks before your last frost date.
It's easy to grow coleus from seed. It can take as long as 21 days for the seeds to germinate, so be patient. Once seedlings appear, it will take three or four weeks of warm weather to help turn them into fully grown plants.
Lightly sprinkle the tiny seeds over a tray filled with potting mix, then lightly cover with a sprinkling of soil.
Cover the tray with plastic and set it in a bright, warm spot until seedlings sprout, which takes about two weeks.
Remove the plastic and continue to grow the seedlings while keeping the soil moist.
When two sets of true leaves appear on the seedlings, carefully transplant them into their own pots and continue growing them until outdoor planting time. Make sure to harden off seedlings before planting in the garden.
Potting and Repotting Coleus
To grow coleus in a container, start with a large pot that the plant can grow into, otherwise, you'll be repotting this fast-growing plant before you know it.
In mixed container plantings, coleus usually serves as an upright "thriller" plant in the center of the container, surrounded by "fillers" and "spillers." In colder zones, container plants are sometimes moved indoors to overwinter.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Groundhogs and young rabbits love coleus. If you can protect your plants early in the season, these pests will usually turn their attention to other plants by mid-summer. Watch out for mealybugs, aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, and slugs.
Coleus is not usually bothered by diseases unless the weather turns cool and damp. If that happens, expect to see signs of fungal diseases, such as mildew. Be careful that the plant enjoys good drainage, because standing water can lead to fungal root rot and stem rot.
FAQ
Is coleus easy to care for?
Coleus is very easy to care for. If you plant coleus in containers, you may want to bring it indoors during the winter to help it survive.
How fast does coleus grow?
Coleus quickly grows to full size, potentially up to 36 inches high, in a single season.
Can coleus be grown indoors?
Coleus makes a good container plant that can even be grown indoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月13日
Few houseplants can boast blooms as vibrant as the fire lily (Clivia miniata). After your winter holiday when plants like poinsettias and amaryllis have faded, the fire lily fills a gap when the days are short and spring still seems far off. Despite its exotic appearance, the fire lily is easy to grow as a houseplant, producing large clusters of blooms in the dry environment of the typical home. This tropical perennial can also be grown as an outdoor landscape plant in USDA zones 10 to 11, where it is often massed in large drifts, much the way daylilies are used.
The Clivia genus is a member of the Amaryllidaceae family of plants, a group that includes the amaryllis—the popular winter houseplant. They can be introduced into the home as potted nursery plants at any time; if planted in the garden in warm climates, they are best planted at any time other than the hottest part of summer. These slow-growing plants can take several years to flower when they are planted from seeds.
Botanical Name Clivia miniata
Common Name Fire lily, natal lily, bush lily, clivia
Family Amaryllidaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 2 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Winter
Flower Color Orange, yellow, cream, pink
Hardiness Zones 10, 11
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Highly toxic in large quantities
Fire Lily Care
Like many South African plants, the fire lily is a tough and resilient specimen. Too much sun or water, though, will cause the plant's demise. If you've purchased a fire lily and it won't bloom, it is usually due to a lack of winter dormancy or immaturity. Fire lilies will grow for years in the same pot with little intervention.
Light
Fire lilies prefer partially shady conditions, which makes them valuable as a houseplant. If you grow your plant indoors all year, place it in a bright window. If you give your plant an outdoor location in the summer months, put it in a spot with dappled sunlight or morning sun.
Soil
Good drainage is important to a healthy fire lily plant. A chunky soil mix full of shredded bark, like those used for orchids, is suitable for a container-grown plant. A sandy cactus mix is also a good choice.
Water
Fire lilies need moderate water. Allow the soil to dry between waterings. When it's time for the early winter dormancy period, reduce watering to keep the soil just short of bone-dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Average room temperatures and low humidity help fire lilies look their best. A cool dormancy period increases the beauty of fire lily flowering. You can achieve this by keeping the plants in an unheated shed or garage in November and December. Plants should be kept between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during this time.
If moving fire lilies back and forth between indoors and an outdoor location, it's best to acclimate them slowly if the temperature range is substantial. Make sure to bring them back indoors before the weather approaches freezing.
Fertilizer
A slow-release houseplant fertilizer can help your fire lily thrive. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer from January until August, then use a fertilizer designed to increase blooming in September and October. Do not fertilize in the winter months leading up to bloom time.
Types of Fire Lily
Most fire lilies sold in garden centers are orange, fewer are yellow, and the rare and expensive cream or pink varieties are usually found through specialty nurseries.
'Doris' is dark orange with a yellow throat.
'Jenny' is orange with a yellow stripe.
'Tiny Tim' has shorter leaves and miniature orange blooms with white throats.
'Solomone Yellow' is a bright yellow.
'Vico Yellow' is a very pale yellow.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary for the fire lily. You can remove dead foliage as needed to keep the plant tidy.
Potting and Repotting Fire Lily
Fire lilies will grow happily in a container for years. A porous terra cotta pot will help with air circulation around the roots, preventing rot. Do not place a saucer under the pot; instead, you should use pot feet to let extra water drain away.
Fire lilies are slow-growing and like to be a little bit rootbound, so you won't need to repot them often. However, if the soil mix you used is getting compacted over time, give the fire lily a fresh pot of soil to maintain good aeration.
Propagating Fire Lily
You can propagate fire lilies by gently digging and dividing them. The base of the plant will branch off into thick roots that are easy to cut apart. Remove the plant from its pot and wash away the soil with a hose or sink sprayer. Each division should have one fan of leaves. If your plant doesn't have at least a dozen leaves, it won't flower.
How to Grow Fire Lily From Seed
Growing the fire lily from seed takes patience, as it may take several years for the slow-growing plants to bloom. Plant fresh seed collected from the fruiting capsule after bloom. Press seeds lightly into moist, sandy potting soil, and keep warm. Germination takes about three weeks.
Overwintering
When grown as houseplants, fire lilies require a rest period of about two to three months in fall and winter. For the first month, give them a temperature between 40- and 60-degrees Fahrenheit. After this, water just barely for six to eight weeks. When new flower stalks appear, you can give them more water and gradually acclimate them to normal room temperatures.
Common Pests
Mealybugs sometimes infest fire lilies. The fuzzy white pests will hide in the crown of the plant and suck out its juices. Dislodge them with a spray of water or use insecticidal soap.
FAQ
What is the difference between fire lilies and amaryllis?
Fire lilies are in the same plant family as the popular winter holiday gift plant amaryllis (Hippeastrum). Both have the same strappy foliage, and both are from South Africa. The amaryllis has larger flowers and blooms earlier in the year. The amaryllis has several hundred cultivars, so you can find a greater diversity in size, shape, and color within the amaryllis group than you can in the fire lilies.
How long does a fire lily live?
These hardy plants can survive for 10 years or so with proper care. Keep in mind that they might not bloom during the first season or two.
How can I keep animals away from my fire lily?
When growing the fire lily as a houseplant, keep it out of reach of curious dogs. When it's growing outside, consider covering the bed with wire mesh just underneath the soil, with appropriate-sized holes cut for the plant to grow through to prevent animals from digging up or munching on the bulbs.
The Clivia genus is a member of the Amaryllidaceae family of plants, a group that includes the amaryllis—the popular winter houseplant. They can be introduced into the home as potted nursery plants at any time; if planted in the garden in warm climates, they are best planted at any time other than the hottest part of summer. These slow-growing plants can take several years to flower when they are planted from seeds.
Botanical Name Clivia miniata
Common Name Fire lily, natal lily, bush lily, clivia
Family Amaryllidaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 2 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Winter
Flower Color Orange, yellow, cream, pink
Hardiness Zones 10, 11
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Highly toxic in large quantities
Fire Lily Care
Like many South African plants, the fire lily is a tough and resilient specimen. Too much sun or water, though, will cause the plant's demise. If you've purchased a fire lily and it won't bloom, it is usually due to a lack of winter dormancy or immaturity. Fire lilies will grow for years in the same pot with little intervention.
Light
Fire lilies prefer partially shady conditions, which makes them valuable as a houseplant. If you grow your plant indoors all year, place it in a bright window. If you give your plant an outdoor location in the summer months, put it in a spot with dappled sunlight or morning sun.
Soil
Good drainage is important to a healthy fire lily plant. A chunky soil mix full of shredded bark, like those used for orchids, is suitable for a container-grown plant. A sandy cactus mix is also a good choice.
Water
Fire lilies need moderate water. Allow the soil to dry between waterings. When it's time for the early winter dormancy period, reduce watering to keep the soil just short of bone-dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Average room temperatures and low humidity help fire lilies look their best. A cool dormancy period increases the beauty of fire lily flowering. You can achieve this by keeping the plants in an unheated shed or garage in November and December. Plants should be kept between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during this time.
If moving fire lilies back and forth between indoors and an outdoor location, it's best to acclimate them slowly if the temperature range is substantial. Make sure to bring them back indoors before the weather approaches freezing.
Fertilizer
A slow-release houseplant fertilizer can help your fire lily thrive. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer from January until August, then use a fertilizer designed to increase blooming in September and October. Do not fertilize in the winter months leading up to bloom time.
Types of Fire Lily
Most fire lilies sold in garden centers are orange, fewer are yellow, and the rare and expensive cream or pink varieties are usually found through specialty nurseries.
'Doris' is dark orange with a yellow throat.
'Jenny' is orange with a yellow stripe.
'Tiny Tim' has shorter leaves and miniature orange blooms with white throats.
'Solomone Yellow' is a bright yellow.
'Vico Yellow' is a very pale yellow.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary for the fire lily. You can remove dead foliage as needed to keep the plant tidy.
Potting and Repotting Fire Lily
Fire lilies will grow happily in a container for years. A porous terra cotta pot will help with air circulation around the roots, preventing rot. Do not place a saucer under the pot; instead, you should use pot feet to let extra water drain away.
Fire lilies are slow-growing and like to be a little bit rootbound, so you won't need to repot them often. However, if the soil mix you used is getting compacted over time, give the fire lily a fresh pot of soil to maintain good aeration.
Propagating Fire Lily
You can propagate fire lilies by gently digging and dividing them. The base of the plant will branch off into thick roots that are easy to cut apart. Remove the plant from its pot and wash away the soil with a hose or sink sprayer. Each division should have one fan of leaves. If your plant doesn't have at least a dozen leaves, it won't flower.
How to Grow Fire Lily From Seed
Growing the fire lily from seed takes patience, as it may take several years for the slow-growing plants to bloom. Plant fresh seed collected from the fruiting capsule after bloom. Press seeds lightly into moist, sandy potting soil, and keep warm. Germination takes about three weeks.
Overwintering
When grown as houseplants, fire lilies require a rest period of about two to three months in fall and winter. For the first month, give them a temperature between 40- and 60-degrees Fahrenheit. After this, water just barely for six to eight weeks. When new flower stalks appear, you can give them more water and gradually acclimate them to normal room temperatures.
Common Pests
Mealybugs sometimes infest fire lilies. The fuzzy white pests will hide in the crown of the plant and suck out its juices. Dislodge them with a spray of water or use insecticidal soap.
FAQ
What is the difference between fire lilies and amaryllis?
Fire lilies are in the same plant family as the popular winter holiday gift plant amaryllis (Hippeastrum). Both have the same strappy foliage, and both are from South Africa. The amaryllis has larger flowers and blooms earlier in the year. The amaryllis has several hundred cultivars, so you can find a greater diversity in size, shape, and color within the amaryllis group than you can in the fire lilies.
How long does a fire lily live?
These hardy plants can survive for 10 years or so with proper care. Keep in mind that they might not bloom during the first season or two.
How can I keep animals away from my fire lily?
When growing the fire lily as a houseplant, keep it out of reach of curious dogs. When it's growing outside, consider covering the bed with wire mesh just underneath the soil, with appropriate-sized holes cut for the plant to grow through to prevent animals from digging up or munching on the bulbs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月01日
Gardeners deemed Rehmannia elata to be 'Chinese foxglove' because the tubular flowers bear a resemblance to digitalis, the foxglove plant. The two plants, however, are actually unrelated. With fast-growing, small Chinese foxglove, spikes of dangling, bell-shaped, rose-pink blossoms poke up from scalloped, glossy green leaves. Unlike traditional foxglove, however, Chinese foxglove petals of the bell-lip flare open and outward.
Spring-planted seeds may not bloom the first year, but to get around this frustration, you can plant the seeds in the fall for gorgeous flowers the following summer. Although Chinese foxglove is not as hardy as its lookalike, digitalis, it is more versatile, growing well in shade and is even fairly drought-tolerant.
Botanical Name Rehmannia elata
Common Name Chinese foxglove
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2-3 ft. wide, 1.5-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining, rich soil
Soil pH 6.5-7
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 7-10
Native Area China
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Chinese Foxglove Care
The prolific blooms are long-lasting and will repeat bloom for three to four months, unlike traditional foxglove. The plants might flop over as the older blooms make way for younger blossoms, so you can stake them to keep them upright if desired.
Chinese foxgloves help to light up shade gardens and that is where they grow happiest. They begin blooming as spring woodland flowers fade. They provide a nice accent to hosta, and the glossy leaves and nodding blossoms contrast well with astilbe. Because the plants can be fairly wide, give them some space when planting in a garden. Chinese foxglove can become invasive in certain areas, particularly when grown in moist, rich soil. If your plant starts to become aggressive, cut back on either food or water, to stress the plants and slow their growth.
Light
You can grow Chinese foxglove in full sun to partial shade. Although the plant prefers sun, they will still flower quite well in shade and can even handle dry shade. In full sun, they will need extra water during hot spells.
Soil
Chinese foxglove are not particular about soil pH, although they do best in a neutral pH of about 6.5-7.0. However, they do need well-draining soil: The roots will rot in soil that remains wet for extended periods. Poor-draining soil can also cause problems during the colder, winter months.
Water
For best results, water daily by using a soaker hose or drip irrigation, especially during the first year. Once established, Chinese foxglove has good drought-tolerance, but mostly in the shade. The plant can tolerate being watered just once a week, but the flowers won't be as prolific as if it is watered every day.
Temperature and Humidity
Chinese foxgloves are only hardy in USDA hardiness zones 7-10, though they grow as a perennial in zones 8-10. In zone 7, it's unpredictable and is more likely to grow as an annual.
Fertilizer
A side dressing with compost or monthly feedings will also help promote flowering. Feed the plant with liquid fertilizer during the summer months to keep the blooms growing.
Pruning
Chinese foxglove are fairly low-maintenance. Plants should be deadheaded for continual bloom.
Propagating Chinese Foxgloves
You can divide your plants in the spring, but because they spread so readily, you probably won't need to. You'll have plenty of plants and if some die out, new ones fill in.
How to Grow Chinese Foxgloves From Seed
Start Chinese foxglove seeds indoors for best results. Although they can be sown outdoors once the risk of frost has passed, the plant's small seeds can be easily overwhelmed. Sow the seeds in good potting soil in small pots, seed trays, or plug trays. Expect germination within 15-30 days, depending on temperature, and then transplant out when the plants are at least 6-inches high. You can expect the plant to bloom about 70 days after germination if conditions are right.
Overwintering
In areas colder than zone 7, you can try starting over-wintering plants indoors or grow your Chinese foxgloves in containers and move the containers to a sheltered and protected spot for winter. Make sure the containers get periodic water and allow them to drain. Lifting the container off the ground with a couple of bricks will ensure the drainage holes are not blocked by frozen ground.
In warmer climates where there will still be infrequent freezing temperatures, Chinese foxglove should be given some protection, like a thick layer of mulch, during cold winters.
Common Pests and Diseases
Although Chinese foxgloves are generally pest free, slugs and snails may munch on its leaves. Both can be treated by leaving small containers of beer around your garden.
Spring-planted seeds may not bloom the first year, but to get around this frustration, you can plant the seeds in the fall for gorgeous flowers the following summer. Although Chinese foxglove is not as hardy as its lookalike, digitalis, it is more versatile, growing well in shade and is even fairly drought-tolerant.
Botanical Name Rehmannia elata
Common Name Chinese foxglove
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2-3 ft. wide, 1.5-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining, rich soil
Soil pH 6.5-7
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 7-10
Native Area China
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Chinese Foxglove Care
The prolific blooms are long-lasting and will repeat bloom for three to four months, unlike traditional foxglove. The plants might flop over as the older blooms make way for younger blossoms, so you can stake them to keep them upright if desired.
Chinese foxgloves help to light up shade gardens and that is where they grow happiest. They begin blooming as spring woodland flowers fade. They provide a nice accent to hosta, and the glossy leaves and nodding blossoms contrast well with astilbe. Because the plants can be fairly wide, give them some space when planting in a garden. Chinese foxglove can become invasive in certain areas, particularly when grown in moist, rich soil. If your plant starts to become aggressive, cut back on either food or water, to stress the plants and slow their growth.
Light
You can grow Chinese foxglove in full sun to partial shade. Although the plant prefers sun, they will still flower quite well in shade and can even handle dry shade. In full sun, they will need extra water during hot spells.
Soil
Chinese foxglove are not particular about soil pH, although they do best in a neutral pH of about 6.5-7.0. However, they do need well-draining soil: The roots will rot in soil that remains wet for extended periods. Poor-draining soil can also cause problems during the colder, winter months.
Water
For best results, water daily by using a soaker hose or drip irrigation, especially during the first year. Once established, Chinese foxglove has good drought-tolerance, but mostly in the shade. The plant can tolerate being watered just once a week, but the flowers won't be as prolific as if it is watered every day.
Temperature and Humidity
Chinese foxgloves are only hardy in USDA hardiness zones 7-10, though they grow as a perennial in zones 8-10. In zone 7, it's unpredictable and is more likely to grow as an annual.
Fertilizer
A side dressing with compost or monthly feedings will also help promote flowering. Feed the plant with liquid fertilizer during the summer months to keep the blooms growing.
Pruning
Chinese foxglove are fairly low-maintenance. Plants should be deadheaded for continual bloom.
Propagating Chinese Foxgloves
You can divide your plants in the spring, but because they spread so readily, you probably won't need to. You'll have plenty of plants and if some die out, new ones fill in.
How to Grow Chinese Foxgloves From Seed
Start Chinese foxglove seeds indoors for best results. Although they can be sown outdoors once the risk of frost has passed, the plant's small seeds can be easily overwhelmed. Sow the seeds in good potting soil in small pots, seed trays, or plug trays. Expect germination within 15-30 days, depending on temperature, and then transplant out when the plants are at least 6-inches high. You can expect the plant to bloom about 70 days after germination if conditions are right.
Overwintering
In areas colder than zone 7, you can try starting over-wintering plants indoors or grow your Chinese foxgloves in containers and move the containers to a sheltered and protected spot for winter. Make sure the containers get periodic water and allow them to drain. Lifting the container off the ground with a couple of bricks will ensure the drainage holes are not blocked by frozen ground.
In warmer climates where there will still be infrequent freezing temperatures, Chinese foxglove should be given some protection, like a thick layer of mulch, during cold winters.
Common Pests and Diseases
Although Chinese foxgloves are generally pest free, slugs and snails may munch on its leaves. Both can be treated by leaving small containers of beer around your garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月28日
Chinese fan palms (Livistona chinensis) are popular landscape plants in warm, humid climates and are very suitable as indoor potted palms. These palms are also known by the common name fountain palm due to the way their fronds arch up and then spill downward like water from a fountain. Each frond can grow 40 to 60 inches long.
It is best to plant Chinese fan palms in the spring. These slow-growing palms have a bushy appearance when they are young. But in roughly a decade, their single, slender, grayish-brown trunk will have grown tall enough enough to be classified as a tree. Fan palms can live for approximately 40 years.
Botanical Name Livistona chinensis
Common Names Chinese fan palm, fountain palm
Plant Type Tree, palm
Mature Size 30-50 feet tall, 10–12 foot spread
Sun Exposure Full to partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Cream
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Chinese Fan Palm Care
Chinese fan palms are fairly hardy and are not overly particular about their growing conditions, which makes them a good choice for beginner gardeners. Still, providing the right amount of light, warmth, and water is a must for growing a healthy plant. Whether you grow these palms in a container or in the ground, they require good soil drainage.
These plants generally don’t have any serious issues with pests or diseases. However, they are susceptible to scale insects and spider mites, which can damage the foliage and potentially kill a plant. An insecticidal soap or neem oil spray can be an effective treatment to treat infestations.
Light
Chinese fan palms grow best in full sun to partial shade, meaning at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight on most days. Young palms prefer some shade, especially from the hot afternoon sun. Indoors, these palms do best located by a bright window with indirect light.
Soil
These palms can tolerate a variety of soil types, including sandy and clay, if there is good drainage. They thrive in a rich loamy soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. For container-grown plants, use a quality potting mix made especially for palms.
Water
Lightly moist but not soggy soil is ideal for Chinese fan palms. Overwatering can cause root rot and other diseases, which can ultimately kill the plant. Established Chinese fan palms do have some drought tolerance, but you must water them during dry spells and/or very hot weather. During the winter months, allow the soil to dry out for container-grown plants because the palm isn’t actively growing. Increase water during the spring, summer, and fall.
Temperature and Humidity
Unlike many other palm species, Chinese fan palms actually have some resistance to cold and frost. They can survive temperatures as low as 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, though this will likely damage some foliage. They thrive in warm, humid weather. To raise humidity and prevent foliage from drying out, regularly mist the palm. Indoors, protect your palm from drafts as well as airflow from heating and air-conditioning vents.
Fertilizer
Fertile soil will promote faster and healthier growth on these palms. Apply a palm fertilizer from late winter to early fall, following label instructions.
Fan Palm Varieties
Here are several other plants that also use the common name of fan palm:
European fan palm (Chamaerops humilis): A native of Europe, this palm is known for being quite hardy with fairly good cold tolerance.
California fan palm (Washingtonia filifera): Also known as the desert fan palm, this plant can grow 40 to 60 feet tall and is the largest native palm in the United States.
Real fan palm (Hyphaene petersiana): Also known as the makalani palm, this palm is native to subtropical regions in Africa and is used as a source of food and materials by both the people and wildlife in the area.
Pruning
Chinese fan palms typically don’t require much pruning. They will develop their cascading shape on their own. However, to keep your palm looking tidy, it’s a good idea to prune off the dead fronds at the bottom of the crown once a year or as often as you wish. Wait until the fronds have fully turned brown before removing them because fronds that are in the process of depreciating are still providing nutrients to the plant.
Potting and Repotting Chinese Fan Palms
If you want to grow your Chinese fan palm in a container, select a pot that is slightly larger than the plant's root ball. The pot also should have ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess moisture to escape through its walls and drainage holes.
You won't need to re-pot these slow-growing palms often, which is ideal because their roots are fragile and can easily be damaged in the process. You’ll know it’s time for a larger container when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and up above the soil line. When this occurs, select a larger pot that provides more space for the root ball. Gently ease the palm’s root ball out of its old container, and plant it at the same depth in the new one. Fill around it with fresh palm potting mix, and firm up the soil. Then, water the palm thoroughly.
It is best to plant Chinese fan palms in the spring. These slow-growing palms have a bushy appearance when they are young. But in roughly a decade, their single, slender, grayish-brown trunk will have grown tall enough enough to be classified as a tree. Fan palms can live for approximately 40 years.
Botanical Name Livistona chinensis
Common Names Chinese fan palm, fountain palm
Plant Type Tree, palm
Mature Size 30-50 feet tall, 10–12 foot spread
Sun Exposure Full to partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Cream
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Chinese Fan Palm Care
Chinese fan palms are fairly hardy and are not overly particular about their growing conditions, which makes them a good choice for beginner gardeners. Still, providing the right amount of light, warmth, and water is a must for growing a healthy plant. Whether you grow these palms in a container or in the ground, they require good soil drainage.
These plants generally don’t have any serious issues with pests or diseases. However, they are susceptible to scale insects and spider mites, which can damage the foliage and potentially kill a plant. An insecticidal soap or neem oil spray can be an effective treatment to treat infestations.
Light
Chinese fan palms grow best in full sun to partial shade, meaning at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight on most days. Young palms prefer some shade, especially from the hot afternoon sun. Indoors, these palms do best located by a bright window with indirect light.
Soil
These palms can tolerate a variety of soil types, including sandy and clay, if there is good drainage. They thrive in a rich loamy soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. For container-grown plants, use a quality potting mix made especially for palms.
Water
Lightly moist but not soggy soil is ideal for Chinese fan palms. Overwatering can cause root rot and other diseases, which can ultimately kill the plant. Established Chinese fan palms do have some drought tolerance, but you must water them during dry spells and/or very hot weather. During the winter months, allow the soil to dry out for container-grown plants because the palm isn’t actively growing. Increase water during the spring, summer, and fall.
Temperature and Humidity
Unlike many other palm species, Chinese fan palms actually have some resistance to cold and frost. They can survive temperatures as low as 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, though this will likely damage some foliage. They thrive in warm, humid weather. To raise humidity and prevent foliage from drying out, regularly mist the palm. Indoors, protect your palm from drafts as well as airflow from heating and air-conditioning vents.
Fertilizer
Fertile soil will promote faster and healthier growth on these palms. Apply a palm fertilizer from late winter to early fall, following label instructions.
Fan Palm Varieties
Here are several other plants that also use the common name of fan palm:
European fan palm (Chamaerops humilis): A native of Europe, this palm is known for being quite hardy with fairly good cold tolerance.
California fan palm (Washingtonia filifera): Also known as the desert fan palm, this plant can grow 40 to 60 feet tall and is the largest native palm in the United States.
Real fan palm (Hyphaene petersiana): Also known as the makalani palm, this palm is native to subtropical regions in Africa and is used as a source of food and materials by both the people and wildlife in the area.
Pruning
Chinese fan palms typically don’t require much pruning. They will develop their cascading shape on their own. However, to keep your palm looking tidy, it’s a good idea to prune off the dead fronds at the bottom of the crown once a year or as often as you wish. Wait until the fronds have fully turned brown before removing them because fronds that are in the process of depreciating are still providing nutrients to the plant.
Potting and Repotting Chinese Fan Palms
If you want to grow your Chinese fan palm in a container, select a pot that is slightly larger than the plant's root ball. The pot also should have ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess moisture to escape through its walls and drainage holes.
You won't need to re-pot these slow-growing palms often, which is ideal because their roots are fragile and can easily be damaged in the process. You’ll know it’s time for a larger container when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and up above the soil line. When this occurs, select a larger pot that provides more space for the root ball. Gently ease the palm’s root ball out of its old container, and plant it at the same depth in the new one. Fill around it with fresh palm potting mix, and firm up the soil. Then, water the palm thoroughly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月26日
Chinese evergreen is an attractive decorative plant native to Asia with several interesting varietals. They all have large, narrow, and glossy oval leaves on short stems, and flowers (on older plants) that bloom in spring or summer. The Chinese evergreen is one of the most popular houseplants and its color variations—from dark green and silver to red—add personality to your home's decor. Chinese evergreens are slow-growing and make excellent indoor foliage plants that can be potted and cared for year-round. Take care if you have pets because the plant is toxic to dogs and cats.1
Common Name Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen
Botanical Name Aglaonema commutatum
Family Araceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Peaty, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Chinese Evergreen Care
If you're looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant, a Chinese evergreen may be the way to go. Beloved for its (nearly) hands-free care, the plant is simple to nurture, provided you follow one simple rule: The lighter the variegation on the plant's leaves, the more sunlight it will need. Once you understand how that applies to your specific Chinese evergreen, you should have no problem helping it thrive. Beyond that, keep your plant warm and moist, and you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not outgrow its pot anytime soon.
Light
Darker green varieties of Chinese evergreens can grow in near-shade, while the variegated varieties require a bit more bright light. Take care not to expose any of the plants (no matter the variety) to direct sunlight, as the harsh rays can easily burn the delicate leaves.
Soil
Ultimately, the Chinese evergreen isn't particularly picky when it comes to the soil it's planted in. Typically, a well-drained, slightly acidic potting soil is perfect for the plant. If you find that your chosen soil is retaining too much water, try mixing in sand or perlite to aid in drainage. You should also make sure to plant your Chinese evergreen in a pot with ample drainage holes at its base.
Water
The Chinese evergreen plant thrives in moist but not water-logged soil. To achieve this balance, water your plant thoroughly, then allow it to dry out before watering again. You can maintain this cadence through the spring, summer, and fall, tapering off in the winter (but never letting the plant dry out completely).
Temperature and Humidity
These plants do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to keep your Chinese evergreen away from windows or vents that blast in cool temperatures—the warmer the spot you can find, the better.
Due to its high humidity requirements, some growers consider Chinese evergreen to be a greenhouse plant. It will do best in the warm, humid, and bright environment of a greenhouse, but it can be successfully grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. To increase the humidity levels around your plant, mist it frequently, and consider placing it in a humidity-prone area of your home, like your kitchen or bathroom. If your home is particularly dry, you can invest in a small space humidifier to put near your plant.
Fertilizer
For best results, feed your Chinese evergreen with slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer twice a year, at the beginning and end of its growing season.
Propagating Chinese Evergreen
Chinese evergreens can be propagated using stem cuttings or by dividing the plants during repotting. Wait until the middle of the summer when the weather is warmest to propagate Chinese evergreen.
To propagate with stem cuttings:
Use a disinfected, sharp cutting tool to take a stem from the mother plant that's several inches long.
Dip the bottom end in root hormone and put the cutting in a glass of water placed in indirect sunlight. Roots should form in three to four weeks.
Carefully and gently transfer your cutting to a pot filled with well-draining potting soil and keep moist.
To propagate by division:
Lay the pot carefully on its side. Use a trowel to loosen the soil on the sides of the container. Gently take the plant and soil out of the pot.
Lightly shake the dirt from the roots. Carefully tease apart the roots (this plant likes to be a bit root bound so move slowly) to separate a clump for repotting.
Repot the clump in a pot filled with well-draining potting soil.
Keep both the original plant and the divided plant a bit extra moist for a few weeks until they are both established and less stressed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
While not terribly susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can occasionally pick up a common houseplant issue like scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. These can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil.
Most other issues arise because the plant is kept too moist, and fungal problems (and root rot) are typical of an over-watered Chinese evergreen.
Common Problems With Chinese Evergreen
There's really one problem that you may find with the otherwise hardy and easy-going Chinese evergreen houseplant: curling or wavy leaves. Once the problem is solved, the plant should recover. Besides the common pests already mentioned, here are a few reasons why your plant's leaves may do this:
Age: This is a normal occurrence in an older plant. Just remove the affected leaf.
Too much light: Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch. Remove burned leaves and move the plant to a bright area that is not in direct sunlight.
Temperature changes: The plant prefers warm, draft-free spots.
Low humidity: You may need to increase the humidity in the air around your plant with misting.
Underwatering: Overly dry soil will affect the leaves. Slowly water the plant so the leaves can recover. Remove dry, crisp leaves.
Overwatering: These plants prefer drier to overly moist soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering to prevent root rot. If the pot is larger (around 10 to 12 inches in diameter), let more of the soil dry out—about halfway down.
FAQ
Is Chinese evergreen easy to care for?
They are very easy houseplants to grow. Best of all, they don't like full sun, so they're perfect for almost any room in your home, especially if window light is a commodity.
How fast does Chinese evergreen grow?
Chinese evergreen is a slow-growing plant, which means you rarely have to worry about repotting.
What is the difference between Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia?
Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia are often confused because their leaves look alike though there are subtle differences. Chinese evergreens will have more of a silvery look to their variegated leaves. But the dieffenbachia's leaves may be much larger and wider than a Chinese evergreen's smaller and more oval leaves.
Common Name Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen
Botanical Name Aglaonema commutatum
Family Araceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Peaty, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Chinese Evergreen Care
If you're looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant, a Chinese evergreen may be the way to go. Beloved for its (nearly) hands-free care, the plant is simple to nurture, provided you follow one simple rule: The lighter the variegation on the plant's leaves, the more sunlight it will need. Once you understand how that applies to your specific Chinese evergreen, you should have no problem helping it thrive. Beyond that, keep your plant warm and moist, and you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not outgrow its pot anytime soon.
Light
Darker green varieties of Chinese evergreens can grow in near-shade, while the variegated varieties require a bit more bright light. Take care not to expose any of the plants (no matter the variety) to direct sunlight, as the harsh rays can easily burn the delicate leaves.
Soil
Ultimately, the Chinese evergreen isn't particularly picky when it comes to the soil it's planted in. Typically, a well-drained, slightly acidic potting soil is perfect for the plant. If you find that your chosen soil is retaining too much water, try mixing in sand or perlite to aid in drainage. You should also make sure to plant your Chinese evergreen in a pot with ample drainage holes at its base.
Water
The Chinese evergreen plant thrives in moist but not water-logged soil. To achieve this balance, water your plant thoroughly, then allow it to dry out before watering again. You can maintain this cadence through the spring, summer, and fall, tapering off in the winter (but never letting the plant dry out completely).
Temperature and Humidity
These plants do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to keep your Chinese evergreen away from windows or vents that blast in cool temperatures—the warmer the spot you can find, the better.
Due to its high humidity requirements, some growers consider Chinese evergreen to be a greenhouse plant. It will do best in the warm, humid, and bright environment of a greenhouse, but it can be successfully grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. To increase the humidity levels around your plant, mist it frequently, and consider placing it in a humidity-prone area of your home, like your kitchen or bathroom. If your home is particularly dry, you can invest in a small space humidifier to put near your plant.
Fertilizer
For best results, feed your Chinese evergreen with slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer twice a year, at the beginning and end of its growing season.
Propagating Chinese Evergreen
Chinese evergreens can be propagated using stem cuttings or by dividing the plants during repotting. Wait until the middle of the summer when the weather is warmest to propagate Chinese evergreen.
To propagate with stem cuttings:
Use a disinfected, sharp cutting tool to take a stem from the mother plant that's several inches long.
Dip the bottom end in root hormone and put the cutting in a glass of water placed in indirect sunlight. Roots should form in three to four weeks.
Carefully and gently transfer your cutting to a pot filled with well-draining potting soil and keep moist.
To propagate by division:
Lay the pot carefully on its side. Use a trowel to loosen the soil on the sides of the container. Gently take the plant and soil out of the pot.
Lightly shake the dirt from the roots. Carefully tease apart the roots (this plant likes to be a bit root bound so move slowly) to separate a clump for repotting.
Repot the clump in a pot filled with well-draining potting soil.
Keep both the original plant and the divided plant a bit extra moist for a few weeks until they are both established and less stressed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
While not terribly susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can occasionally pick up a common houseplant issue like scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. These can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil.
Most other issues arise because the plant is kept too moist, and fungal problems (and root rot) are typical of an over-watered Chinese evergreen.
Common Problems With Chinese Evergreen
There's really one problem that you may find with the otherwise hardy and easy-going Chinese evergreen houseplant: curling or wavy leaves. Once the problem is solved, the plant should recover. Besides the common pests already mentioned, here are a few reasons why your plant's leaves may do this:
Age: This is a normal occurrence in an older plant. Just remove the affected leaf.
Too much light: Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch. Remove burned leaves and move the plant to a bright area that is not in direct sunlight.
Temperature changes: The plant prefers warm, draft-free spots.
Low humidity: You may need to increase the humidity in the air around your plant with misting.
Underwatering: Overly dry soil will affect the leaves. Slowly water the plant so the leaves can recover. Remove dry, crisp leaves.
Overwatering: These plants prefer drier to overly moist soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering to prevent root rot. If the pot is larger (around 10 to 12 inches in diameter), let more of the soil dry out—about halfway down.
FAQ
Is Chinese evergreen easy to care for?
They are very easy houseplants to grow. Best of all, they don't like full sun, so they're perfect for almost any room in your home, especially if window light is a commodity.
How fast does Chinese evergreen grow?
Chinese evergreen is a slow-growing plant, which means you rarely have to worry about repotting.
What is the difference between Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia?
Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia are often confused because their leaves look alike though there are subtle differences. Chinese evergreens will have more of a silvery look to their variegated leaves. But the dieffenbachia's leaves may be much larger and wider than a Chinese evergreen's smaller and more oval leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月22日
With their glossy emerald leaves and petite shape, China doll plants make for an attractive addition to any indoor home garden collection. Native to the subtropical mountainous areas of Asia, China doll plants are evergreen trees that are a part of the Bignoniaceae family. When cared for indoors, they are moderately fast growers and can reach heights between 4 and 6 feet at maturity.
When growing indoors, the China doll plant can be started and grown all year long. It's a bit picky about its growing conditions (specifically when it comes to light and soil), but if you maintain them, you'll be rewarded with a feathery, eye-catching plant perfect for bringing a pop of greenery to any corner of your home.
Botanical Name Radermachera sinica
Common Name China doll plant, serpent tree, emerald tree
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall (indoors), 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms indoors)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) when outdoors
Native Area Asia
China Doll Plant Care
China doll plants require specific growing conditions in order to thrive indoors and can be fussy if these conditions are not met. The most important thing to remember when growing a China doll plant is that they require lots of light and moisture and do not react well to frequent changes in their growing conditions. Leaf drop commonly occurs in China doll plants if their growing conditions are not right or change too quickly.
Light
China doll plants require lots of medium to bright indirect light in order to thrive indoors. Choose a spot nearby a window, but make sure to protect your plant from any direct harsh rays, as they can burn the plant's delicate leaves and cause leaf drop. If you do not have enough natural light in your home to support a China doll plant (it will need at least four to five hours a day, consistently), you can supplement with an artificial grow light to help it thrive.
Soil
Plant your China doll plant in a moist but well-draining soil mix. Commercially available potting mixtures are typically adequate—if you notice that the soil is not draining well, perlite or sand can be mixed in to help improve drainage.
Water
Regular watering is vital to achieving a happy, healthy China doll plant. They should be watered once the top inch of soil is dry, the frequency of which will vary depending on the season and environment in your home. At the same time, care needs to be taken not to overwater China doll plants, as they cannot handle "wet feet" and will easily develop root rot if left sitting in water. To avoid this issue, choose a pot with ample drained holes at its base. If you notice the leaves of the plant turning yellow or crunchy, that's a good indication that it's not receiving enough water. Likewise, black tips on the plant's leaves can signal it's being overwatered.
Temperature and Humidity
Due to their subtropical origins, China doll plants appreciate warm and humid conditions in your home. They should be kept in temperatures between 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and, while they can survive in the typical dry household conditions, they will thrive when given extra humidity. To increase the humidity around your China doll plant, keep it in a room in your home that typically boasts more humidity, like the kitchen or bathroom. You can also mist the plant daily or place the plant near a humidifier.
Fertilizer
During its growing period (spring and summer), your China doll plant should be fed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer that has been diluted by half. Once the plant's growth has slowed for the year, you can decrease your feeding cadence to once every other month.
Pruning China Doll Plants
Regular pruning is the main form of upkeep for the China doll plant and should be done so regularly in order to maintain an attractive and successful plant. It's not picky about the time of year that it is pruned, so you can do so whenever you notice your China doll plant getting a little unruly. Every few months, trim back any stems that have gotten a bit leggy, those that are misshapen, or stems that appear to be dying off.
Propagating China Doll Plants
China doll plants can be propagated through stem cuttings. Propagating China doll plants isn't impossible, but it does take more time and care than some other varietals. When taking stem cuttings, ensure that they are green and not from the woody portion of the plant. The stem cuttings can then be placed directly in moist soil and covered with a sheet of plastic wrap in order to retain humidity. The soil around the cuttings should be kept evenly moist at all times. If the propagation was successful roots should begin to grow within three to four weeks.
Potting and Repotting China Doll Plants
Less is more when it comes to repotting China doll plants. They appreciate being rootbound, so frequent repotting or disturbance can lead to leaf drop and a general failure to thrive. Only repot your China doll plant when absolutely necessary, and be sure to increase its pot size by only one-to-two inches when you do so. As an alternative to repotting, you can consider root pruning, which can also be known to help control the size of your China doll plant.
Common Pests and Diseases
China doll plants aren't known to be particularly susceptible to pest or disease issues, but there are a few afflictions to look out for. Like most houseplants, your China doll plant is at risk for scale, mealybug, and spider mites, especially if it's kept near a variety of other plants. These common pests can be treated with a natural insecticide, such as neem oil. Any diseases it may experience are often fungal (like leaf spot) and can be rectified by reducing the moisture around the plant slightly.
When growing indoors, the China doll plant can be started and grown all year long. It's a bit picky about its growing conditions (specifically when it comes to light and soil), but if you maintain them, you'll be rewarded with a feathery, eye-catching plant perfect for bringing a pop of greenery to any corner of your home.
Botanical Name Radermachera sinica
Common Name China doll plant, serpent tree, emerald tree
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall (indoors), 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms indoors)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) when outdoors
Native Area Asia
China Doll Plant Care
China doll plants require specific growing conditions in order to thrive indoors and can be fussy if these conditions are not met. The most important thing to remember when growing a China doll plant is that they require lots of light and moisture and do not react well to frequent changes in their growing conditions. Leaf drop commonly occurs in China doll plants if their growing conditions are not right or change too quickly.
Light
China doll plants require lots of medium to bright indirect light in order to thrive indoors. Choose a spot nearby a window, but make sure to protect your plant from any direct harsh rays, as they can burn the plant's delicate leaves and cause leaf drop. If you do not have enough natural light in your home to support a China doll plant (it will need at least four to five hours a day, consistently), you can supplement with an artificial grow light to help it thrive.
Soil
Plant your China doll plant in a moist but well-draining soil mix. Commercially available potting mixtures are typically adequate—if you notice that the soil is not draining well, perlite or sand can be mixed in to help improve drainage.
Water
Regular watering is vital to achieving a happy, healthy China doll plant. They should be watered once the top inch of soil is dry, the frequency of which will vary depending on the season and environment in your home. At the same time, care needs to be taken not to overwater China doll plants, as they cannot handle "wet feet" and will easily develop root rot if left sitting in water. To avoid this issue, choose a pot with ample drained holes at its base. If you notice the leaves of the plant turning yellow or crunchy, that's a good indication that it's not receiving enough water. Likewise, black tips on the plant's leaves can signal it's being overwatered.
Temperature and Humidity
Due to their subtropical origins, China doll plants appreciate warm and humid conditions in your home. They should be kept in temperatures between 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and, while they can survive in the typical dry household conditions, they will thrive when given extra humidity. To increase the humidity around your China doll plant, keep it in a room in your home that typically boasts more humidity, like the kitchen or bathroom. You can also mist the plant daily or place the plant near a humidifier.
Fertilizer
During its growing period (spring and summer), your China doll plant should be fed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer that has been diluted by half. Once the plant's growth has slowed for the year, you can decrease your feeding cadence to once every other month.
Pruning China Doll Plants
Regular pruning is the main form of upkeep for the China doll plant and should be done so regularly in order to maintain an attractive and successful plant. It's not picky about the time of year that it is pruned, so you can do so whenever you notice your China doll plant getting a little unruly. Every few months, trim back any stems that have gotten a bit leggy, those that are misshapen, or stems that appear to be dying off.
Propagating China Doll Plants
China doll plants can be propagated through stem cuttings. Propagating China doll plants isn't impossible, but it does take more time and care than some other varietals. When taking stem cuttings, ensure that they are green and not from the woody portion of the plant. The stem cuttings can then be placed directly in moist soil and covered with a sheet of plastic wrap in order to retain humidity. The soil around the cuttings should be kept evenly moist at all times. If the propagation was successful roots should begin to grow within three to four weeks.
Potting and Repotting China Doll Plants
Less is more when it comes to repotting China doll plants. They appreciate being rootbound, so frequent repotting or disturbance can lead to leaf drop and a general failure to thrive. Only repot your China doll plant when absolutely necessary, and be sure to increase its pot size by only one-to-two inches when you do so. As an alternative to repotting, you can consider root pruning, which can also be known to help control the size of your China doll plant.
Common Pests and Diseases
China doll plants aren't known to be particularly susceptible to pest or disease issues, but there are a few afflictions to look out for. Like most houseplants, your China doll plant is at risk for scale, mealybug, and spider mites, especially if it's kept near a variety of other plants. These common pests can be treated with a natural insecticide, such as neem oil. Any diseases it may experience are often fungal (like leaf spot) and can be rectified by reducing the moisture around the plant slightly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月20日
The group of edible plants labeled hot peppers includes a small number of species and cultivars within the Capsicum genus. Most hot peppers are only slight genetic variations of the sweet bell peppers found in many gardens. Pepper plants are in the Solanaceae (nightshade) family that also includes tomatoes, eggplants, and potatoes. So-called "hot peppers" are not a botanical classification, but rather a group of pepper varieties grouped together by shape and/or heat intensity.
When a man named Wilbur Scoville first devised a means to test the heat of a pepper in 1912, his hottest entry then came in at 20,000 units. At the time, this seemed plenty hot when compared to the Scoville rating of 0 units for a sweet bell pepper. However, decades of plant development have now created peppers with much greater spiciness. Most people regard a modern Halabeno pepper, at 60,000 Scoville units to be incredibly hot, but there are also peppers so hot they earn Scoville ratings in the millions. Such peppers are not grown for food so much as they are for conversation.
Exotic though they may seem, hot peppers have virtually the same cultural requirements as all other species in the Capsicum genus, including sweet bell peppers. They are normally planted as nursery seedlings in the spring after the soil has warmed. From nursery transplants, peppers take 55 to 80 days to produce edible fruit. More exotic forms must be started from seeds started indoors many weeks before the outdoor planting date.
Botanical Name Capsicum spp. (mostly C. annuum)
Common Name Hot pepper, chili pepper, chili
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial; usually grown as an annual
Size 1 to 5 ft.; 1- to 3-ft. spread (depends on variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Rich, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0 to 6.8)
Native Area Southern North America and northern South America
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 (usually grown as annuals)
How to Plant Hot Peppers
Gardeners zones 8 and above with long, warm growing seasons can direct sow peppers once the ground is warm and not too wet. But most hot peppers are either started from seed indoors or purchased as seedlings.
If you start your own hot pepper plants indoors, give them plenty of time to develop. Seed should be started eight to 12 weeks before your last frost date. The seeds can be slow to germinate. The use of a heating pad or some other means of heating the soil will speed germination. However, it will also cause the soil to dry out faster and the seeds will need more frequent watering.
You should see the first sets of true leaves within about six weeks. At that point, you can transplant them into individual pots and continue growing them indoors. Before planting them in the garden, harden off the seedlings, as they are very susceptible to cold temperatures. Wait to transplant in the garden until after all danger of frost and once temperatures remain reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Plant the seedlings about 1 inch deeper than they were growing in their pots. The base of the stems will send out small roots, making stronger plants. Space your plants based on their mature size; hot peppers do not mind being a bit crowded.
Pinching off the early shoots will encourage the plant to become bushy and full. Hot peppers tend to set a lot of fruit all at once. While some varieties are sturdy enough to stay upright on their own, staking may be necessary to keep the fruits from resting on the ground.
Hot Pepper Care
Light
Hot peppers require a full-sun location to grow well and produce ripened fruit.
Soil
Hot peppers can adapt to most soil types. They need well-draining soil, so some organic matter should be added. However, the taste will be hotter if the soil is a bit lean and not overly fertilized. A neutral soil pH of about 6.0 to 6.8 is best. A sprinkling of Epsom salts at planting seems to help fruit set, as does crowding the plants in their bed.
Water
Hot peppers need to dry out between waterings, but make sure they get at least 1 inch of water each week. They will drop their flowers if allowed to become drought-stressed. A good layer of mulch around the base of the plant will help conserve soil moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
Peppers need warmth (at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit) to grow and set flowers. However, at extreme temperatures, 90 degrees and over or under 60 degrees, they will drop their blossoms until conditions become more favorable. If the weather remains cool or if it is an especially rainy growing season, it will take longer for hot pepper plants to begin flowering and ripening their fruits.
Peppers do equally well in dry and humid environments, provided soil moisture is maintained.
Fertilizer
Overfeeding will result in leafy plants with few peppers. Add some organic matter before planting to ensure good drainage as well as provide nutrients. You can also give them a dose of balanced fertilizer at planting time and again when the first flowers appear. Many gardeners add a small handful of Epsom salts to the soil at planting time as a magnesium boost.
Hot Pepper Varieties
It is thought that all peppers, hot and sweet, originally developed from the wild chiltepin pepper of Central America. The most commonly grown modern hot pepper varieties are cultivars of Capsicum annuum, a species that includes cayenne and jalapenos, as well as sweet peppers. In addition to the C. annuum varieties, other hot pepper species include Capsicum baccatum, Capsicum chinense, Capsicum pubescens, Capsicum frutescens.
Some recommended cultivars to grow include:
'Poblano': These pepper fruits are deep green, almost black, and look similar to a bell pepper. It is one of the milder of the hot peppers, with a Scoville rating up to 1,500 units—more interesting than a bell pepper, but far from intimidating.
'Jalapenos': This variety can range up to 8,000 Scoville units, making it considerably milder than cayenne peppers and within the tolerance level of most gardeners. The fruits are up to 3 inches long and can be green, yellow, or red, depending on the cultivar.
'Cayenne': Rating up to 50,000 on the Scoville scale, this one is not for the faint of heart. The thin fruits are 1 to 2 inches long, and they mature relatively quickly.
'Thai': This pepper has tiny, elongated fruits that pack a Scoville rating of up to 100,000 units.
'Habanero': This variety is still the standard for the hot pepper lover who wants bragging rights. Fruits are 1 to 2 inches long. At the upper end, these peppers can be blazingly hot, up to 350,000 Scoville units. There are now several varieties of Habeneros available.
For most gardeners, this is the upper end for peppers that will be readily edible. Beyond this, hot peppers become literally dangerous—such as the Carolina Reaper pepper, with a Scoville rating of more than 2 million units. Such peppers can badly burn skin and should be handled with great care.
Harvesting
You can keep your plants producing more hot peppers by harvesting regularly once they reach an edible size. Many gardeners like to allow their peppers to fully ripen and change color, but ripe fruits tend to lose some of their heat.
Cut the fruits from the plant; don’t pull. Hot peppers are best used within a few days of harvest. They can also be canned or frozen.
Growing Hot Peppers in Pots
Peppers do fairly well when grown in pots filled with a general-purpose potting mix, provided you keep them well watered. Potted peppers can be brought indoors in the winter, but they will need a sunny window in order to continue producing fruit.
Common Pests & Diseases
Healthy pepper plants don't suffer much from serious pest and disease problems. However, be on the lookout for the following:
Aphids and thrips can infest older plants. Symptoms include crinkled or very narrow leaves. These insects can spread viruses, which have no cure. Destroy any infected plants to prevent spreading the disease.
Cutworms can slice off young plants at ground level. Wrapping the base of the plants with foil, toilet paper tubes, or something similar will thwart them. Even toothpicks on either side of the stem will do the trick.
Fungal and bacterial leaf spots may occur. Affected parts should be removed and destroyed. Rotate pepper plants to another spot in following years, as pathogens may persist in the soil. Avoid planting peppers in any locations where other nightshades—such as tomatoes or eggplants—have been growing, as these species suffer from many of the same diseases.
When a man named Wilbur Scoville first devised a means to test the heat of a pepper in 1912, his hottest entry then came in at 20,000 units. At the time, this seemed plenty hot when compared to the Scoville rating of 0 units for a sweet bell pepper. However, decades of plant development have now created peppers with much greater spiciness. Most people regard a modern Halabeno pepper, at 60,000 Scoville units to be incredibly hot, but there are also peppers so hot they earn Scoville ratings in the millions. Such peppers are not grown for food so much as they are for conversation.
Exotic though they may seem, hot peppers have virtually the same cultural requirements as all other species in the Capsicum genus, including sweet bell peppers. They are normally planted as nursery seedlings in the spring after the soil has warmed. From nursery transplants, peppers take 55 to 80 days to produce edible fruit. More exotic forms must be started from seeds started indoors many weeks before the outdoor planting date.
Botanical Name Capsicum spp. (mostly C. annuum)
Common Name Hot pepper, chili pepper, chili
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial; usually grown as an annual
Size 1 to 5 ft.; 1- to 3-ft. spread (depends on variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Rich, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0 to 6.8)
Native Area Southern North America and northern South America
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 (usually grown as annuals)
How to Plant Hot Peppers
Gardeners zones 8 and above with long, warm growing seasons can direct sow peppers once the ground is warm and not too wet. But most hot peppers are either started from seed indoors or purchased as seedlings.
If you start your own hot pepper plants indoors, give them plenty of time to develop. Seed should be started eight to 12 weeks before your last frost date. The seeds can be slow to germinate. The use of a heating pad or some other means of heating the soil will speed germination. However, it will also cause the soil to dry out faster and the seeds will need more frequent watering.
You should see the first sets of true leaves within about six weeks. At that point, you can transplant them into individual pots and continue growing them indoors. Before planting them in the garden, harden off the seedlings, as they are very susceptible to cold temperatures. Wait to transplant in the garden until after all danger of frost and once temperatures remain reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Plant the seedlings about 1 inch deeper than they were growing in their pots. The base of the stems will send out small roots, making stronger plants. Space your plants based on their mature size; hot peppers do not mind being a bit crowded.
Pinching off the early shoots will encourage the plant to become bushy and full. Hot peppers tend to set a lot of fruit all at once. While some varieties are sturdy enough to stay upright on their own, staking may be necessary to keep the fruits from resting on the ground.
Hot Pepper Care
Light
Hot peppers require a full-sun location to grow well and produce ripened fruit.
Soil
Hot peppers can adapt to most soil types. They need well-draining soil, so some organic matter should be added. However, the taste will be hotter if the soil is a bit lean and not overly fertilized. A neutral soil pH of about 6.0 to 6.8 is best. A sprinkling of Epsom salts at planting seems to help fruit set, as does crowding the plants in their bed.
Water
Hot peppers need to dry out between waterings, but make sure they get at least 1 inch of water each week. They will drop their flowers if allowed to become drought-stressed. A good layer of mulch around the base of the plant will help conserve soil moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
Peppers need warmth (at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit) to grow and set flowers. However, at extreme temperatures, 90 degrees and over or under 60 degrees, they will drop their blossoms until conditions become more favorable. If the weather remains cool or if it is an especially rainy growing season, it will take longer for hot pepper plants to begin flowering and ripening their fruits.
Peppers do equally well in dry and humid environments, provided soil moisture is maintained.
Fertilizer
Overfeeding will result in leafy plants with few peppers. Add some organic matter before planting to ensure good drainage as well as provide nutrients. You can also give them a dose of balanced fertilizer at planting time and again when the first flowers appear. Many gardeners add a small handful of Epsom salts to the soil at planting time as a magnesium boost.
Hot Pepper Varieties
It is thought that all peppers, hot and sweet, originally developed from the wild chiltepin pepper of Central America. The most commonly grown modern hot pepper varieties are cultivars of Capsicum annuum, a species that includes cayenne and jalapenos, as well as sweet peppers. In addition to the C. annuum varieties, other hot pepper species include Capsicum baccatum, Capsicum chinense, Capsicum pubescens, Capsicum frutescens.
Some recommended cultivars to grow include:
'Poblano': These pepper fruits are deep green, almost black, and look similar to a bell pepper. It is one of the milder of the hot peppers, with a Scoville rating up to 1,500 units—more interesting than a bell pepper, but far from intimidating.
'Jalapenos': This variety can range up to 8,000 Scoville units, making it considerably milder than cayenne peppers and within the tolerance level of most gardeners. The fruits are up to 3 inches long and can be green, yellow, or red, depending on the cultivar.
'Cayenne': Rating up to 50,000 on the Scoville scale, this one is not for the faint of heart. The thin fruits are 1 to 2 inches long, and they mature relatively quickly.
'Thai': This pepper has tiny, elongated fruits that pack a Scoville rating of up to 100,000 units.
'Habanero': This variety is still the standard for the hot pepper lover who wants bragging rights. Fruits are 1 to 2 inches long. At the upper end, these peppers can be blazingly hot, up to 350,000 Scoville units. There are now several varieties of Habeneros available.
For most gardeners, this is the upper end for peppers that will be readily edible. Beyond this, hot peppers become literally dangerous—such as the Carolina Reaper pepper, with a Scoville rating of more than 2 million units. Such peppers can badly burn skin and should be handled with great care.
Harvesting
You can keep your plants producing more hot peppers by harvesting regularly once they reach an edible size. Many gardeners like to allow their peppers to fully ripen and change color, but ripe fruits tend to lose some of their heat.
Cut the fruits from the plant; don’t pull. Hot peppers are best used within a few days of harvest. They can also be canned or frozen.
Growing Hot Peppers in Pots
Peppers do fairly well when grown in pots filled with a general-purpose potting mix, provided you keep them well watered. Potted peppers can be brought indoors in the winter, but they will need a sunny window in order to continue producing fruit.
Common Pests & Diseases
Healthy pepper plants don't suffer much from serious pest and disease problems. However, be on the lookout for the following:
Aphids and thrips can infest older plants. Symptoms include crinkled or very narrow leaves. These insects can spread viruses, which have no cure. Destroy any infected plants to prevent spreading the disease.
Cutworms can slice off young plants at ground level. Wrapping the base of the plants with foil, toilet paper tubes, or something similar will thwart them. Even toothpicks on either side of the stem will do the trick.
Fungal and bacterial leaf spots may occur. Affected parts should be removed and destroyed. Rotate pepper plants to another spot in following years, as pathogens may persist in the soil. Avoid planting peppers in any locations where other nightshades—such as tomatoes or eggplants—have been growing, as these species suffer from many of the same diseases.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月16日
Iresine herbstii is a relatively uncommon plant, but one that's gorgeous in any garden or as a houseplant. In all, there are about 30 species of Iresine plants in the genus, all of them native to South America, especially Brazil. They range from small to medium-sized shrubs, and most are perennial. The flowers on these plants are unremarkable, consisting of small greenish or white flowers on small stems, but instead, they are commonly grown for their striking foliage.
Aside from their interesting foliage, these plants are notable for the range of their common names. Besides blood leaf, they are known as the chicken gizzard plant, the beefsteak plant, and other descriptive names. They are more common in the Southern Hemisphere, which makes them novelties in the northern hemisphere.
Botanical Name Iresine herbstii
Common Name Bloodleaf, chicken gizzard, beefsteak plant
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall when potted
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Loamy, soil-based potting mixture
Soil pH 5.6 to 5.9
Bloom Time Flowers not showy
Flower Color Green-white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 12
Native Area Brazil
Iresine Care
Although Iresine can be planted both outside and indoors, it gets quite finicky outdoors. It's hardy to USDA Zones 10 to 12, and it needs a lot of heat and humidity. If you live in an area that's prone to cooler temperatures, either grow Iresine as a houseplant or keep it in a container and move it indoors when the temperature drops.
In its native habitat or when grown outdoors in the right conditions, the plant can grow to be 5 feet tall with a 3-foot spread. However, indoors, it's more likely to stay between 12 and 18 inches tall, with red leaves that are up to 4 inches long.
Light
Smaller plants tend to thrive in partial shade, but as they grow they can tolerate more light. They are margin plants by nature, meaning they grow on the edge of forests and can withstand varied light levels. They can tolerate less light in the winter months, so don't place them too close to a window. If the plant is getting leggy, however, it's probably not getting enough light.
Soil
When growing the plant outdoors, Iresine prefers organically rich, well-draining soil. For indoor growth, though, use a loamy, soil-based potting mixture.
Water
Regular moisture is essential, especially during the growing season. They aren't water plants, so don't waterlog them, but plants without adequate moisture will begin to develop brown leaf margins and dropping leaves. During the winter months, you can cut back on waterings, but aim to keep the soil moist.
Temperature and Humidity
These are "warm house" plants and cannot tolerate lower temperatures or cold, dry air. The plant requires a temperature of at least 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, they are best grown in window boxes or bathrooms, which often have warmth and humidity. If you have a glasshouse, they will thrive there.
Due to their low tolerance for cold, dry air, they will need to be frequently misted and provided with adequate heat during the winter.
Fertilizer
Feed with a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks throughout the growing season.
Potting and Repotting
Iresine should be repotted annually until it reaches its mature size, then it can be repotted every other year or propagated to create new stock and discarded. In the tropical landscape, it is often used as bedding plants, so it's a nice effect to grow a small clump of them in a container or to grow them in a mixed container with other tropical plants.
Propagating Iresine
They can also be easily propagated from fleshy stem-tip cuttings. For best success, take cuttings early in the season, use a rooting hormone, and provide bottom warmth and very high humidity. Seal the pot inside a plastic bag to keep the moisture in, and remove it when the plant shows signs of new growth.
Varieties of Iresine
There are dozens of species of Iresine herbstii, but only a few are grown for ornamental purposes.
Iresine herbstii 'Brilliantissima': Bright red leaves with pink veins
Iresine herbstii 'Aueoreticulata': Green leaves with yellow veins
Iresine herbstii 'Blazin Rose': Deep red-purple leaves with pinkish-red veins
Iresine herbstii 'Acuminata': Dark maroon leaves with pinkish-red veins
Pruning
Iresine plants will put out small, pale green-white flowers, but they're not showy. Therefore, most gardeners choose to pinch off the buds, so that the plant can divert its energy into growing its beautiful foliage.
Common Pests and Diseases
Iresine doesn't have any significant pest or disease problems, but it is vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and whitefly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the least toxic option.
Aside from their interesting foliage, these plants are notable for the range of their common names. Besides blood leaf, they are known as the chicken gizzard plant, the beefsteak plant, and other descriptive names. They are more common in the Southern Hemisphere, which makes them novelties in the northern hemisphere.
Botanical Name Iresine herbstii
Common Name Bloodleaf, chicken gizzard, beefsteak plant
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall when potted
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Loamy, soil-based potting mixture
Soil pH 5.6 to 5.9
Bloom Time Flowers not showy
Flower Color Green-white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 12
Native Area Brazil
Iresine Care
Although Iresine can be planted both outside and indoors, it gets quite finicky outdoors. It's hardy to USDA Zones 10 to 12, and it needs a lot of heat and humidity. If you live in an area that's prone to cooler temperatures, either grow Iresine as a houseplant or keep it in a container and move it indoors when the temperature drops.
In its native habitat or when grown outdoors in the right conditions, the plant can grow to be 5 feet tall with a 3-foot spread. However, indoors, it's more likely to stay between 12 and 18 inches tall, with red leaves that are up to 4 inches long.
Light
Smaller plants tend to thrive in partial shade, but as they grow they can tolerate more light. They are margin plants by nature, meaning they grow on the edge of forests and can withstand varied light levels. They can tolerate less light in the winter months, so don't place them too close to a window. If the plant is getting leggy, however, it's probably not getting enough light.
Soil
When growing the plant outdoors, Iresine prefers organically rich, well-draining soil. For indoor growth, though, use a loamy, soil-based potting mixture.
Water
Regular moisture is essential, especially during the growing season. They aren't water plants, so don't waterlog them, but plants without adequate moisture will begin to develop brown leaf margins and dropping leaves. During the winter months, you can cut back on waterings, but aim to keep the soil moist.
Temperature and Humidity
These are "warm house" plants and cannot tolerate lower temperatures or cold, dry air. The plant requires a temperature of at least 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, they are best grown in window boxes or bathrooms, which often have warmth and humidity. If you have a glasshouse, they will thrive there.
Due to their low tolerance for cold, dry air, they will need to be frequently misted and provided with adequate heat during the winter.
Fertilizer
Feed with a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks throughout the growing season.
Potting and Repotting
Iresine should be repotted annually until it reaches its mature size, then it can be repotted every other year or propagated to create new stock and discarded. In the tropical landscape, it is often used as bedding plants, so it's a nice effect to grow a small clump of them in a container or to grow them in a mixed container with other tropical plants.
Propagating Iresine
They can also be easily propagated from fleshy stem-tip cuttings. For best success, take cuttings early in the season, use a rooting hormone, and provide bottom warmth and very high humidity. Seal the pot inside a plastic bag to keep the moisture in, and remove it when the plant shows signs of new growth.
Varieties of Iresine
There are dozens of species of Iresine herbstii, but only a few are grown for ornamental purposes.
Iresine herbstii 'Brilliantissima': Bright red leaves with pink veins
Iresine herbstii 'Aueoreticulata': Green leaves with yellow veins
Iresine herbstii 'Blazin Rose': Deep red-purple leaves with pinkish-red veins
Iresine herbstii 'Acuminata': Dark maroon leaves with pinkish-red veins
Pruning
Iresine plants will put out small, pale green-white flowers, but they're not showy. Therefore, most gardeners choose to pinch off the buds, so that the plant can divert its energy into growing its beautiful foliage.
Common Pests and Diseases
Iresine doesn't have any significant pest or disease problems, but it is vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and whitefly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the least toxic option.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月07日
The Celebrity tomato is a hybrid cultivar prized for its strong plants, disease and pest resistance, and robust production of fruit. If you've ever struggled growing garden or patio tomatoes that become vulnerable to pests or just don't produce very many tomatoes, the Celebrity may be a game changer for you. These tomatoes usually weigh in at half a pound each or more, and measure four inches across: the perfect size for a slicer! Its meaty texture and smooth globe shape make it a perfect sandwich tomato, but it can also be used in salads or in sauces, or chopped and simmered with fresh herbs to serve over pasta.
Among tomato-growing aficionados, this variety is known as a "semi determinate" plant, because after reaching its full height of 3-4 feet, it continues to produce fruit until frost (unlike determinate tomatoes that have a "bush" habit and finite fruiting period/single crop, or indeterminate tomato plants that continue to sprawl and produce fruit throughout their growth season (like cherry tomatoes)
Because they produce such an abundance of large fruits, these plants definitely need cages or stakes to keep them upright. Even with cages, you may find you want to use some plant ties for extra support, especially as fruits grow larger. If the vines seem too heavy with fruit you can always pluck some tomatoes just before they fully ripen, and finish ripening them in a sunny windowsill (indoors, or squirrels might start snacking on them).
Scientific Name Solanum lycopersicum, cultivar 'Celebrity'
Common Name Celebrity tomato
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 3 to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.2 to 6.8
Bloom Time Early summer, fruits appear through fall
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 (USDA)
Native Areas Native to Central and South America
Toxicity Green parts of plant may be toxic to dogs or cats
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes
Even inexperienced tomato growers may find this variety to be relatively trouble free. It's resistant to many pests and diseases, and has a robust growth habit. It also can be grown easily in containers, Use a large container that's at least five gallons, to give your plants plenty of root space, and make sure the container has good drainage.
Soil
Tomatoes like a rich, well-drained soil. It's important to add new soil and amendments to the garden area where tomatoes are grown each season, and to rotate nightshade crops, to benefit from optimal soil nutrition. The Celebrity tomato does best in a slightly acidic soil. You may also want to consider companion plantings best for tomatoes.
Light
Two words: full sun. Celebrity tomatoes should be grown in full sun.
Water
Watering at the base of the plant with a watering can or drip hose, instead of using a sprinkler or hose from above, is recommended to help prevent spread of blight or disease. (Rain is good too!) Water in the morning or evening on dry days, and avoid watering during the hottest part of the day in summer. Tomatoes like plenty of water, but they do not like wet feet. If your tomato plants are pot grown they will need to be watered more often. Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot and overwatering may cause leaves to turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
The ideal temperature for tomato plants to blossom, fruit and ripen falls in the 70 to 85 degree F. range.1 Being such a hardy plant, variations in temperature probably won't do too much damage to Celebrity tomato plants, but if a heat wave crops up, be sure to water with cool water in the morning and again in the evening so the foliage doesn't dry out. Too much humidity may increase susceptibility to mold or mildew, but the Celebrity has been bred to resist such problems. Even though Celebrity is more a bush type of plant, it is important to leave plenty of space between tomatoes planted in a row in the garden. Good air circulation will help prevent many of the disease problems that plague your plants.
Common Pests and Diseases
This hardy hybrid plant is resistant to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and tobacco mosaic virus, as well as nematodes. Tomato fruits are tempting to birds and small wildlife, so you may need to protect them with netting if this is a problem in your garden.
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes from Seed
With the right set up, growing tomatoes from seed is fairly straightforward. Germination will be dependent on light, heat and moisture but most tomato seeds have a good germination rate. Use a seed starting mix and follow the instructions on the seed packet. A greenhouse is ideal for starting seeds for the vegetable and flower gardens but you can grow tomatoes from seed in a sunny windowsill. Once the seedlings emerge, they will begin to reach for the sun, so remember to turn the pots regularly to keep the plants from becoming leggy.
You will need to harden off your tomato seedlings before planting them in the garden. You can accomplish this by exposing them to outdoor temperatures for increasingly longer periods of time over a week or several days. Choose good-sized containers for transplanting your seedlings, or plant in your garden once the seedlings are at least six inches tall, and all danger of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting
Most tomatoes grow easily in containers, with a few simple guidelines to follow, and Celebrity tomatoes are no exception. The most important tip for growing tomatoes in pots is to make sure the pots are big enough! Tomato root systems require a good amount of space and good drainage. Once transplanted a light watering will help avoid transplant shock. When you are ready to plant out in the garden, dig a deep hole and remove the seed leaves and up to several sets of lower leaves depending on the size of your seedlings. You can bury up to a third of the plant in the soil which encourages a strong root system and helps the roots take up available water.
Among tomato-growing aficionados, this variety is known as a "semi determinate" plant, because after reaching its full height of 3-4 feet, it continues to produce fruit until frost (unlike determinate tomatoes that have a "bush" habit and finite fruiting period/single crop, or indeterminate tomato plants that continue to sprawl and produce fruit throughout their growth season (like cherry tomatoes)
Because they produce such an abundance of large fruits, these plants definitely need cages or stakes to keep them upright. Even with cages, you may find you want to use some plant ties for extra support, especially as fruits grow larger. If the vines seem too heavy with fruit you can always pluck some tomatoes just before they fully ripen, and finish ripening them in a sunny windowsill (indoors, or squirrels might start snacking on them).
Scientific Name Solanum lycopersicum, cultivar 'Celebrity'
Common Name Celebrity tomato
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 3 to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.2 to 6.8
Bloom Time Early summer, fruits appear through fall
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 (USDA)
Native Areas Native to Central and South America
Toxicity Green parts of plant may be toxic to dogs or cats
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes
Even inexperienced tomato growers may find this variety to be relatively trouble free. It's resistant to many pests and diseases, and has a robust growth habit. It also can be grown easily in containers, Use a large container that's at least five gallons, to give your plants plenty of root space, and make sure the container has good drainage.
Soil
Tomatoes like a rich, well-drained soil. It's important to add new soil and amendments to the garden area where tomatoes are grown each season, and to rotate nightshade crops, to benefit from optimal soil nutrition. The Celebrity tomato does best in a slightly acidic soil. You may also want to consider companion plantings best for tomatoes.
Light
Two words: full sun. Celebrity tomatoes should be grown in full sun.
Water
Watering at the base of the plant with a watering can or drip hose, instead of using a sprinkler or hose from above, is recommended to help prevent spread of blight or disease. (Rain is good too!) Water in the morning or evening on dry days, and avoid watering during the hottest part of the day in summer. Tomatoes like plenty of water, but they do not like wet feet. If your tomato plants are pot grown they will need to be watered more often. Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot and overwatering may cause leaves to turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
The ideal temperature for tomato plants to blossom, fruit and ripen falls in the 70 to 85 degree F. range.1 Being such a hardy plant, variations in temperature probably won't do too much damage to Celebrity tomato plants, but if a heat wave crops up, be sure to water with cool water in the morning and again in the evening so the foliage doesn't dry out. Too much humidity may increase susceptibility to mold or mildew, but the Celebrity has been bred to resist such problems. Even though Celebrity is more a bush type of plant, it is important to leave plenty of space between tomatoes planted in a row in the garden. Good air circulation will help prevent many of the disease problems that plague your plants.
Common Pests and Diseases
This hardy hybrid plant is resistant to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and tobacco mosaic virus, as well as nematodes. Tomato fruits are tempting to birds and small wildlife, so you may need to protect them with netting if this is a problem in your garden.
Growing Celebrity Tomatoes from Seed
With the right set up, growing tomatoes from seed is fairly straightforward. Germination will be dependent on light, heat and moisture but most tomato seeds have a good germination rate. Use a seed starting mix and follow the instructions on the seed packet. A greenhouse is ideal for starting seeds for the vegetable and flower gardens but you can grow tomatoes from seed in a sunny windowsill. Once the seedlings emerge, they will begin to reach for the sun, so remember to turn the pots regularly to keep the plants from becoming leggy.
You will need to harden off your tomato seedlings before planting them in the garden. You can accomplish this by exposing them to outdoor temperatures for increasingly longer periods of time over a week or several days. Choose good-sized containers for transplanting your seedlings, or plant in your garden once the seedlings are at least six inches tall, and all danger of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting
Most tomatoes grow easily in containers, with a few simple guidelines to follow, and Celebrity tomatoes are no exception. The most important tip for growing tomatoes in pots is to make sure the pots are big enough! Tomato root systems require a good amount of space and good drainage. Once transplanted a light watering will help avoid transplant shock. When you are ready to plant out in the garden, dig a deep hole and remove the seed leaves and up to several sets of lower leaves depending on the size of your seedlings. You can bury up to a third of the plant in the soil which encourages a strong root system and helps the roots take up available water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月03日
If you want to add a bit of spice to your garden, the cayenne pepper plant might be the perfect choice. These plants are a Capsicum annuum species cultivar. The species includes many other common pepper varieties, including bell peppers, Serrano peppers, and jalapeños, although the cayenne packs more of a punch when it comes to heat.
The peppers themselves measure around 4-6 inches long, have a long, tapering shape with a curved tip, and are most commonly red. The plants also produce flowers that are white to slightly purple and are shaped like a bell.
These frost-tender perennials can be grown as annuals in temperate areas, but they grow best in warm regions that closely mimic the conditions of their native sub-tropical and tropical regions in South and Central America. They can be planted in spring after any danger of frost has passed, and they usually take around three months to produce a mature harvest.
Botanical Name Capsicum annuum 'Cayenne'
Common Name Cayenne pepper
Plant Type Perennial/annual
Mature Size Pepper: 4-6 inches; plant: up to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral pH
Bloom Time Spring/summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical South and Central America
How to Plant Cayenne Pepper Plants
Positioning and spacing are vitally important for a successful harvest of Cayenne peppers. Space the plants around 24 inches apart (just allowing for light contact), and if the seeds are started indoors, they shouldn't be planted out until a couple of weeks after the last frost and the soil is suitably warmed. Make sure you select a location that hasn't been used by other members of the Solanaceae family, such as tomatoes or potatoes, in several years.
Cayenne Pepper Plant Care
Light
The cayenne pepper plant will grow best when exposed to full sunlight for at least eight hours per day.
Soil
Cayenne pepper plants require moist, well-drained, fertile soil with a neutral pH. More acidic soil can produce peppers that are spicier than normal. If you are unsure, it may be worth conducting a soil pH level test.
Water
Watering cayenne pepper plants can be a delicate process. They do require moist soil, but overwatering is a problem too. If the soil becomes either too dry or too saturated, the plant's foliage can turn yellow. A deep watering every few days at the base of the plant is generally beneficial. Mulching around the plant can be a helpful way to conserve moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
The cayenne pepper plant is a warm-weather species native to tropical regions, and it requires consistently warm temperatures to survive. These plants cannot withstand extremes in temperatures, either heat or cold.
Temperatures consistently below 55 degrees Fahrenheit will result in slow growth and leaf discoloration. Temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit will damage or kill the plants, and nighttime temperatures above 75 degrees Fahrenheit can impact pepper production levels.
Fertilizer
Cayenne peppers will grow well in rich, fertile soil. If your soil is not particularly rich and you plant to use a fertilizer, make sure it isn't one with high nitrogen levels. This will direct energy towards impressive foliar growth rather than fruit production.
Harvesting
Cayenne peppers are usually ready to harvest anywhere from 70 to 100 days after planting. Ripe peppers will generally be red, around 4-6 inches long, have a waxy skin, and be firm to the touch. Overripe specimens that are soft will not be edible, and although you can eat the peppers when they are still green, they won't have such a pleasant or intense flavor.
Though the peppers can be pulled from the stem, it's recommended to snip the peppers from the plant to help prevent any damage. This is important because, when well maintained, you can continue to harvest peppers until the first fall frost.
Once picked, your peppers can be kept in the refrigerator. It is best to use them within a week of harvesting to appreciate the best flavor and nutritional value. The peppers can also be dried and ground into a powdered seasoning for use in an array of cuisines.
Growing Cayenne Peppers From Seeds
If you want to grow cayenne peppers in your own garden, and you happen to have a longer growing season and plenty of sun, you can sow the seeds directly into the soil 10 to 14 days before the final frost of the year.
However, when starting your cayenne pepper plant, you'll likely have the most success by planting them indoors or, better yet, in a greenhouse. The seedlings are delicate and cannot tolerate either overly hot or cold conditions.
When starting your plants indoors, place the container in a sunny location in a room that will maintain a temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds should be planted in light, well-drained soil and usually sprout in about 16 to 20 days.
Plant the growing seedlings into flats spaced a few inches apart or in individual pots, and then allow them to gradually acclimate to outdoor temperatures before transplanting about six to eight weeks later (assuming that all danger of frost has passed).
Transplanting is a shock for cayenne pepper seedlings, so take care to minimize the trauma. If you choose to transplant prior to the final frost of the season, you can protect them with hot caps, row covers, or black plastic.
Common Pests/Diseases
A few pests are attracted to peppers—they also tend to be problematic for other members of the nightshade family (like tomatoes). However, with attentive care, it would be rare for them to impact your harvest significantly. Keep an eye out for aphids, mites, pepper hornworms, pill bugs and leafminers.
Fungal diseases like leaf spot, fusarium wilt, and anthracnose can occasionally be a problem, especially in humid weather conditions. Proper spacing, good soil draining, and watering from the plant base can all help minimize the chances of these diseases becoming an issue.
The peppers themselves measure around 4-6 inches long, have a long, tapering shape with a curved tip, and are most commonly red. The plants also produce flowers that are white to slightly purple and are shaped like a bell.
These frost-tender perennials can be grown as annuals in temperate areas, but they grow best in warm regions that closely mimic the conditions of their native sub-tropical and tropical regions in South and Central America. They can be planted in spring after any danger of frost has passed, and they usually take around three months to produce a mature harvest.
Botanical Name Capsicum annuum 'Cayenne'
Common Name Cayenne pepper
Plant Type Perennial/annual
Mature Size Pepper: 4-6 inches; plant: up to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral pH
Bloom Time Spring/summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical South and Central America
How to Plant Cayenne Pepper Plants
Positioning and spacing are vitally important for a successful harvest of Cayenne peppers. Space the plants around 24 inches apart (just allowing for light contact), and if the seeds are started indoors, they shouldn't be planted out until a couple of weeks after the last frost and the soil is suitably warmed. Make sure you select a location that hasn't been used by other members of the Solanaceae family, such as tomatoes or potatoes, in several years.
Cayenne Pepper Plant Care
Light
The cayenne pepper plant will grow best when exposed to full sunlight for at least eight hours per day.
Soil
Cayenne pepper plants require moist, well-drained, fertile soil with a neutral pH. More acidic soil can produce peppers that are spicier than normal. If you are unsure, it may be worth conducting a soil pH level test.
Water
Watering cayenne pepper plants can be a delicate process. They do require moist soil, but overwatering is a problem too. If the soil becomes either too dry or too saturated, the plant's foliage can turn yellow. A deep watering every few days at the base of the plant is generally beneficial. Mulching around the plant can be a helpful way to conserve moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
The cayenne pepper plant is a warm-weather species native to tropical regions, and it requires consistently warm temperatures to survive. These plants cannot withstand extremes in temperatures, either heat or cold.
Temperatures consistently below 55 degrees Fahrenheit will result in slow growth and leaf discoloration. Temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit will damage or kill the plants, and nighttime temperatures above 75 degrees Fahrenheit can impact pepper production levels.
Fertilizer
Cayenne peppers will grow well in rich, fertile soil. If your soil is not particularly rich and you plant to use a fertilizer, make sure it isn't one with high nitrogen levels. This will direct energy towards impressive foliar growth rather than fruit production.
Harvesting
Cayenne peppers are usually ready to harvest anywhere from 70 to 100 days after planting. Ripe peppers will generally be red, around 4-6 inches long, have a waxy skin, and be firm to the touch. Overripe specimens that are soft will not be edible, and although you can eat the peppers when they are still green, they won't have such a pleasant or intense flavor.
Though the peppers can be pulled from the stem, it's recommended to snip the peppers from the plant to help prevent any damage. This is important because, when well maintained, you can continue to harvest peppers until the first fall frost.
Once picked, your peppers can be kept in the refrigerator. It is best to use them within a week of harvesting to appreciate the best flavor and nutritional value. The peppers can also be dried and ground into a powdered seasoning for use in an array of cuisines.
Growing Cayenne Peppers From Seeds
If you want to grow cayenne peppers in your own garden, and you happen to have a longer growing season and plenty of sun, you can sow the seeds directly into the soil 10 to 14 days before the final frost of the year.
However, when starting your cayenne pepper plant, you'll likely have the most success by planting them indoors or, better yet, in a greenhouse. The seedlings are delicate and cannot tolerate either overly hot or cold conditions.
When starting your plants indoors, place the container in a sunny location in a room that will maintain a temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds should be planted in light, well-drained soil and usually sprout in about 16 to 20 days.
Plant the growing seedlings into flats spaced a few inches apart or in individual pots, and then allow them to gradually acclimate to outdoor temperatures before transplanting about six to eight weeks later (assuming that all danger of frost has passed).
Transplanting is a shock for cayenne pepper seedlings, so take care to minimize the trauma. If you choose to transplant prior to the final frost of the season, you can protect them with hot caps, row covers, or black plastic.
Common Pests/Diseases
A few pests are attracted to peppers—they also tend to be problematic for other members of the nightshade family (like tomatoes). However, with attentive care, it would be rare for them to impact your harvest significantly. Keep an eye out for aphids, mites, pepper hornworms, pill bugs and leafminers.
Fungal diseases like leaf spot, fusarium wilt, and anthracnose can occasionally be a problem, especially in humid weather conditions. Proper spacing, good soil draining, and watering from the plant base can all help minimize the chances of these diseases becoming an issue.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月24日
Catawba rhododendron is a member of the heath family, making it a relative of such landscape plants as:
Winter heath (Erica x darleyensis)
Heather (Calluna vulgaris)
Andromeda (Pieris japonica)
Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia)
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An even closer relative is the azalea, which also belongs to the Rhododendron genus. This multi-stemmed plant is grown mainly for its large clusters of lavender flowers. But a secondary feature worthy of consideration is its large, attractive, evergreen leaves, which are glossy and a dark green color.
Botanical Name Rhododendron catawbiense
Common Name Catawba rhododendron
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size Will stay 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide for many years but can eventually get larger
Sun Exposure Partial shade to full shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time April to June
Flower Color Most commonly lavender-pink but does come in other colors
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8
Native Area Southeastern United States
How to Grow Catawba Rhododendron
One key to growing Catawba rhododendron bush successfully is realizing just how sensitive its root system is and taking appropriate steps to protect it. For example, the root system does not like to be exposed to heat, which is one reason why it should be grown in the shade.
But locating the plant in the shade is just the beginning of pampering its roots. You can't let the roots dry out, so Catawba rhododendron would not be an ideal plant to grow in regions prone to drought. On the other hand, Catawba rhododendron does not like having wet feet (which is likely to happen if you are trying to grow it in a clayey soil), so good drainage is essential. In ground with poor drainage, the plant can suffer from root rot.
Moreover, this bush has a shallow root system, meaning that its roots are easily damaged (for example, by weeding too vigorously around it and accidentally striking its roots with a shovel). Some of these concerns can be addressed by applying 3 inches of mulch around your Catawba rhododendron. A layer of mulch will:
Reduce the amount of heat that permeates down to the root system
Help retain moisture
Cut down on weed growth and furnish a protective buffer between you and the root system
Catawba rhododendron is attacked by many kinds of insect pests. Happily, hummingbirds also like it.
Prune your Catawba rhododendron just after it is done flowering. Tardy pruning could cause a reduction in flowers for next year. As always when pruning shrubs, start by pruning off dead or damaged branches. Next, trim off any branches that are sticking way up above the rest, thereby spoiling the overall shape of the bush. Yearly pruning will promote a more compact shape.
Light
Give Catawba rhododendron a little morning sun at the northern end of its range. At the southern end of its range, give it full shade.
Soil
Make sure that the soil for these shrubs drains well. If the soil does not currently drain well, amend the soil with organic matter.
Water
Catawba rhododendron has average water needs, but try to keep its soil evenly moist.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Catawba rhododendron in spring yearly by working compost into the soil.
All parts of this bush are poisonous, so do not allow small children around it since they may be tempted to nibble at its foliage or flowers.
Uses for Catawba Rhododendron Bushes
Catawba rhododendron, with its rounded habit, nice foliage, and colorful flowers, is impressive enough to function as a specimen plant in spring. Alternatively, mass several Catawba rhododendron shrubs together to create an attractive living privacy screen. Gardeners with a lot of shade in their landscapes will value Catawba rhododendron as a plant that tolerates almost full shade (a growing condition that many plants simply will not put up with). It is an ideal plant for woodland gardens, particularly those with excessive shade.
Catawba Rhododendron Cultivar for Moon Gardens
If you are seeking shrubs for moon gardens and wonder if there is a white-blooming Catawba rhododendron, you are in luck. A cultivar of this popular flowering shrub with white flowers is Rhododendron 'Catawbiense Album.' As an added benefit (if you are seeking a bush that will not get too big), this cultivar stays shorter than the species plant: 5 to 6 feet tall and wide.
Winter heath (Erica x darleyensis)
Heather (Calluna vulgaris)
Andromeda (Pieris japonica)
Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia)
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An even closer relative is the azalea, which also belongs to the Rhododendron genus. This multi-stemmed plant is grown mainly for its large clusters of lavender flowers. But a secondary feature worthy of consideration is its large, attractive, evergreen leaves, which are glossy and a dark green color.
Botanical Name Rhododendron catawbiense
Common Name Catawba rhododendron
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size Will stay 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide for many years but can eventually get larger
Sun Exposure Partial shade to full shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time April to June
Flower Color Most commonly lavender-pink but does come in other colors
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8
Native Area Southeastern United States
How to Grow Catawba Rhododendron
One key to growing Catawba rhododendron bush successfully is realizing just how sensitive its root system is and taking appropriate steps to protect it. For example, the root system does not like to be exposed to heat, which is one reason why it should be grown in the shade.
But locating the plant in the shade is just the beginning of pampering its roots. You can't let the roots dry out, so Catawba rhododendron would not be an ideal plant to grow in regions prone to drought. On the other hand, Catawba rhododendron does not like having wet feet (which is likely to happen if you are trying to grow it in a clayey soil), so good drainage is essential. In ground with poor drainage, the plant can suffer from root rot.
Moreover, this bush has a shallow root system, meaning that its roots are easily damaged (for example, by weeding too vigorously around it and accidentally striking its roots with a shovel). Some of these concerns can be addressed by applying 3 inches of mulch around your Catawba rhododendron. A layer of mulch will:
Reduce the amount of heat that permeates down to the root system
Help retain moisture
Cut down on weed growth and furnish a protective buffer between you and the root system
Catawba rhododendron is attacked by many kinds of insect pests. Happily, hummingbirds also like it.
Prune your Catawba rhododendron just after it is done flowering. Tardy pruning could cause a reduction in flowers for next year. As always when pruning shrubs, start by pruning off dead or damaged branches. Next, trim off any branches that are sticking way up above the rest, thereby spoiling the overall shape of the bush. Yearly pruning will promote a more compact shape.
Light
Give Catawba rhododendron a little morning sun at the northern end of its range. At the southern end of its range, give it full shade.
Soil
Make sure that the soil for these shrubs drains well. If the soil does not currently drain well, amend the soil with organic matter.
Water
Catawba rhododendron has average water needs, but try to keep its soil evenly moist.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Catawba rhododendron in spring yearly by working compost into the soil.
All parts of this bush are poisonous, so do not allow small children around it since they may be tempted to nibble at its foliage or flowers.
Uses for Catawba Rhododendron Bushes
Catawba rhododendron, with its rounded habit, nice foliage, and colorful flowers, is impressive enough to function as a specimen plant in spring. Alternatively, mass several Catawba rhododendron shrubs together to create an attractive living privacy screen. Gardeners with a lot of shade in their landscapes will value Catawba rhododendron as a plant that tolerates almost full shade (a growing condition that many plants simply will not put up with). It is an ideal plant for woodland gardens, particularly those with excessive shade.
Catawba Rhododendron Cultivar for Moon Gardens
If you are seeking shrubs for moon gardens and wonder if there is a white-blooming Catawba rhododendron, you are in luck. A cultivar of this popular flowering shrub with white flowers is Rhododendron 'Catawbiense Album.' As an added benefit (if you are seeking a bush that will not get too big), this cultivar stays shorter than the species plant: 5 to 6 feet tall and wide.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月06日
Cardinal climber Ipomoea × multifida) is one of those plants that fully lives up to its name. The blossoms of this hybrid plant are a true cardinal red, and the vine reaches for whatever it can grab. This is a very graceful, airy annual vine, related to morning glory (one of the parent plants of this hybrid). It blooms profusely throughout the summer and the red, trumpet-shaped flowers are big favorites of hummingbirds and other pollinators. The bright green leaves are triangular, with deep, narrow lobes that give them a lacy appearance resembling that of small palm leaves. The tubular flowers are red, with white or yellow throats. Five petals overlap to form a swept-back pentagon at the opening.
Cardinal climber is often planted near a trellis or other structure that it can climb; it can also be used as a dense ground-cover. The delicate, lacy leaves form a peek-a-boo screen rather than blocking the view entirely. This makes them great for training over an arbor or trellis. They are also a good choice for softening a wall and adding an airy feeling.
Cardinal climber can also be grown in containers. Add support in the container for even more height. They look wonderful growing around an obelisk, in the center of other flowers.
Botanical Name Ipomoea × multifida
Common Name Cardinal climber
Plant Type Annual flowering vine
Mature Size 6 to 12 feet tall, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun; will tolerate some shade
Soil Type Any well-drained soil
Soil pH 6.0 to 7.2; prefers a fairly neutral pH
Bloom Time Midsummer until frost
Flower Color Red, with yellow or white throats
Hardiness Zones None; this plant is a true annual
Native Area None; this plant is a cultivated hybrid
Toxicity Toxic to pets
How to Grow Cardinal Climber
Plant cardinal climber in any well-drained soil, in a full-sun location. It requires regular water but does not need to be fertilized unless the soil is poor. It is often planted from potted seedlings, but it can also be seeded directly into the soil, covering the seeds 1/4 inch deep. Space plants 6 to 12 inches apart.
Growing From Seeds
You can sow seeds directly into the garden after danger of frost has passed, to a depth of 1/4 inch. Or, they can be started indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost of the winter/spring.
The seeds have a hard shell and germinate best if some type of scarification is done before planting. The easiest method is to soak them overnight. If you're really ambitious, you can rub them gently with some sandpaper and then soak them overnight. Seeds should germinate within 10 days. Give the young plants a regular weekly watering of at least 1 to 2 inches while getting established.
Light
Cardinal climber prefers full sun but will tolerate part shade.
Soil
This plant does well in any well-drained soil; it prefers a neutral pH.
Water
Cardinal climber will tolerate dry soil, but its parent species are tropical plants, and it grows best if kept moist. Make sure it gets at least 1 inch of water each week, either through rainfall or irrigation. Cardinal climber doesn't like prolonged periods of dryness.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant-like hot, humid weather for best growth; cool weather will cause it to grow slowly.
Fertilizer
This plant rarely needs feeding, unless the soil is very poor.
Propagation of Cardinal Climber
This is a hybrid that grows true from its seeds. You can allow the seed pods to dry on the plants and then collect the seeds to plant the following year.
Comparison With Cypress Vine and Morning Glory
Cardinal flower is a hybrid of cypress vine (Ipomoea quamoclit) and red morning glory (Ipomoea coccinea) and is sometimes confused with those plants since it shares characteristics of both. However, its leaves are distinctly different than the fine, feathery leaves of cypress vine and the heart-shaped leaves of morning glory.
Common Pests/ Diseases
In warmer climates, all members of the morning glory family (Ipomoea) can become aggressive self-seeders. So far, only the Arizona Department of Agriculture has banned their sale.
Cardinal climber is virtually pest-free. If the vines get too thick, they may attract whitefly. Insecticidal soap should control the problem.
Cardinal climber is often planted near a trellis or other structure that it can climb; it can also be used as a dense ground-cover. The delicate, lacy leaves form a peek-a-boo screen rather than blocking the view entirely. This makes them great for training over an arbor or trellis. They are also a good choice for softening a wall and adding an airy feeling.
Cardinal climber can also be grown in containers. Add support in the container for even more height. They look wonderful growing around an obelisk, in the center of other flowers.
Botanical Name Ipomoea × multifida
Common Name Cardinal climber
Plant Type Annual flowering vine
Mature Size 6 to 12 feet tall, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun; will tolerate some shade
Soil Type Any well-drained soil
Soil pH 6.0 to 7.2; prefers a fairly neutral pH
Bloom Time Midsummer until frost
Flower Color Red, with yellow or white throats
Hardiness Zones None; this plant is a true annual
Native Area None; this plant is a cultivated hybrid
Toxicity Toxic to pets
How to Grow Cardinal Climber
Plant cardinal climber in any well-drained soil, in a full-sun location. It requires regular water but does not need to be fertilized unless the soil is poor. It is often planted from potted seedlings, but it can also be seeded directly into the soil, covering the seeds 1/4 inch deep. Space plants 6 to 12 inches apart.
Growing From Seeds
You can sow seeds directly into the garden after danger of frost has passed, to a depth of 1/4 inch. Or, they can be started indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost of the winter/spring.
The seeds have a hard shell and germinate best if some type of scarification is done before planting. The easiest method is to soak them overnight. If you're really ambitious, you can rub them gently with some sandpaper and then soak them overnight. Seeds should germinate within 10 days. Give the young plants a regular weekly watering of at least 1 to 2 inches while getting established.
Light
Cardinal climber prefers full sun but will tolerate part shade.
Soil
This plant does well in any well-drained soil; it prefers a neutral pH.
Water
Cardinal climber will tolerate dry soil, but its parent species are tropical plants, and it grows best if kept moist. Make sure it gets at least 1 inch of water each week, either through rainfall or irrigation. Cardinal climber doesn't like prolonged periods of dryness.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant-like hot, humid weather for best growth; cool weather will cause it to grow slowly.
Fertilizer
This plant rarely needs feeding, unless the soil is very poor.
Propagation of Cardinal Climber
This is a hybrid that grows true from its seeds. You can allow the seed pods to dry on the plants and then collect the seeds to plant the following year.
Comparison With Cypress Vine and Morning Glory
Cardinal flower is a hybrid of cypress vine (Ipomoea quamoclit) and red morning glory (Ipomoea coccinea) and is sometimes confused with those plants since it shares characteristics of both. However, its leaves are distinctly different than the fine, feathery leaves of cypress vine and the heart-shaped leaves of morning glory.
Common Pests/ Diseases
In warmer climates, all members of the morning glory family (Ipomoea) can become aggressive self-seeders. So far, only the Arizona Department of Agriculture has banned their sale.
Cardinal climber is virtually pest-free. If the vines get too thick, they may attract whitefly. Insecticidal soap should control the problem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月23日
Growing cannas in your garden is an easy way to create instant tropical flair. Cannas are tropical and subtropical flowering plants with large, banana-like leaves. Cannas' popularity and active hybridizing have resulted in a dazzling array of cannas to choose from, many with large, showy flowers and variegated leaves that look like stained glass when the sun shines through them.
Striking flowers notwithstanding, cannas are often grown for their foliage alone. The large, paddle-like leaves come in a range of greens and blue-greens and can have variegation and stripes. Somewhat tubular and lily-like, Canna flowers come in shades and combinations of yellow, orange, red, and pink and are borne on tall stalks poking out of the foliage. Rhizomes planted in spring after the last frost will take a few weeks to sprout but will then grow at a rapid pace and may even flower in the first year.
Because most Cannas sold today are the result of many crosses, Cannas are rarely classified and are simply considered hybrids.
Botanical Name Canna × generalis
Common Name Canna lily
Plant Type Annual flower (in most zones)
Mature Size 18 inches to 10 feet tall and 1.5 to 6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange, red, pink
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Tropics
How to Grow Canna Plants
In planting zones 8 and up, cannas will repeat-bloom throughout summer, and throughout the year in zones 9 and above. For everyone else, there are three options: You can let them die off each fall and start with fresh rhizomes in the spring; you can pot the plants and bring them indoors to live as houseplants; or you can dig up and store the rhizomes for the winter (and replant them in spring).
Canna leaves are covered with a waxy substance that repels water and protects against fungus. They may be bothered by rust or bacterial blight especially in poorly drained soils. Pest problems can include leaf rollers and caterpillars while slugs and snails may munch on the leaves.
Light
Cannas do best in full sun. This means they may need more water in really hot climates, but they need heat to spur their growth. In the hottest area, some afternoon shade helps flowers last longer.
Soil
Plant cannas in rich, moist soil, ideally with a slightly acid to neutral soil pH.
Water
Cannas need consistent water and evenly moist soil. Water often, especially in extreme heat. Insufficient water will cause the leaves to tear or crack.
Temperature and Humidity
Blooming depends on the climate and weather. In areas with cool springs, the plants may be slow to get started. Potting them up indoors, before your last frost date, and moving them out while they are already growing, will help them bloom earlier. As tropical plants, cannas prefer humid air but can tolerate relative dryness, especially if they are properly watered.
Fertilizer
In addition to needing lots of water, cannas are hungry plants, although they store some food in their rhizomes. Feed them in early spring and midsummer, using a balanced fertilizer.
Propagating Canna Plants
Since most of the newer varieties are hybrids, canna lilies are generally grown from rhizomes rather than seed. If you live in a climate with frost and would like to preserve outdoor plants for the next season, cut the foliage and stem to 6 inches. Then, dig the rhizomes and let them dry in a protected, shady spot. When dry, shake off the excess soil, wrap the rhizomes in newspaper, and store them in a dark, cool location until spring. Check on them periodically to make sure they are not rotting or drying out.
The size and amount of blooms of cannas are linked to the number of "eyes" on a rhizome. The more eyes, the bigger plant and better blooms. Look for rhizomes with 3-5 eyes, and plant them in spring with the eyes facing up 4 to 5 inches deep. Or, if you'd like to get a head start on the season, pot them up indoors, four to six weeks before your last frost, and move them out once the temperature warms. Keep the rhizomes moist but not soaking wet.
Varieties of Cannas
'Lucifer': red flowers with yellow borders; green leaves; 2 feet tall
'The President': scarlet blossoms; green leaves; 3 to 3.5 feet tall
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): orange flowers; yellow and green striped foliage; 4 to 6 feet tall
'Stuttgart': orange flowers; green and white variegated foliage; 3 to 4 feet tall
'Tropicanna': dark variegated leaves with large, orange flowers; also comes in Black and Gold; 4 to 6 feet tall
Pruning
To keep your plants flowering throughout the season, deadhead them as the blooms start to fade. If you prefer to grow cannas for their foliage alone, you can cut back the flower stalks before they even have a chance to bloom.
Landscape Uses
Cannas can't help but be focal points. A single specimen can anchor a circle garden. Planted in a mass, they can look both tropical and Victorian. The colors and tropical feel combine well with other "hot" colors.
There's even a variety of canna that grows in extremely wet soil--or even in water gardens. This plant is a hybrid of Canna glauca. They look gorgeous in bog gardens, or can be planted in baskets in water gardens.
Striking flowers notwithstanding, cannas are often grown for their foliage alone. The large, paddle-like leaves come in a range of greens and blue-greens and can have variegation and stripes. Somewhat tubular and lily-like, Canna flowers come in shades and combinations of yellow, orange, red, and pink and are borne on tall stalks poking out of the foliage. Rhizomes planted in spring after the last frost will take a few weeks to sprout but will then grow at a rapid pace and may even flower in the first year.
Because most Cannas sold today are the result of many crosses, Cannas are rarely classified and are simply considered hybrids.
Botanical Name Canna × generalis
Common Name Canna lily
Plant Type Annual flower (in most zones)
Mature Size 18 inches to 10 feet tall and 1.5 to 6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange, red, pink
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Tropics
How to Grow Canna Plants
In planting zones 8 and up, cannas will repeat-bloom throughout summer, and throughout the year in zones 9 and above. For everyone else, there are three options: You can let them die off each fall and start with fresh rhizomes in the spring; you can pot the plants and bring them indoors to live as houseplants; or you can dig up and store the rhizomes for the winter (and replant them in spring).
Canna leaves are covered with a waxy substance that repels water and protects against fungus. They may be bothered by rust or bacterial blight especially in poorly drained soils. Pest problems can include leaf rollers and caterpillars while slugs and snails may munch on the leaves.
Light
Cannas do best in full sun. This means they may need more water in really hot climates, but they need heat to spur their growth. In the hottest area, some afternoon shade helps flowers last longer.
Soil
Plant cannas in rich, moist soil, ideally with a slightly acid to neutral soil pH.
Water
Cannas need consistent water and evenly moist soil. Water often, especially in extreme heat. Insufficient water will cause the leaves to tear or crack.
Temperature and Humidity
Blooming depends on the climate and weather. In areas with cool springs, the plants may be slow to get started. Potting them up indoors, before your last frost date, and moving them out while they are already growing, will help them bloom earlier. As tropical plants, cannas prefer humid air but can tolerate relative dryness, especially if they are properly watered.
Fertilizer
In addition to needing lots of water, cannas are hungry plants, although they store some food in their rhizomes. Feed them in early spring and midsummer, using a balanced fertilizer.
Propagating Canna Plants
Since most of the newer varieties are hybrids, canna lilies are generally grown from rhizomes rather than seed. If you live in a climate with frost and would like to preserve outdoor plants for the next season, cut the foliage and stem to 6 inches. Then, dig the rhizomes and let them dry in a protected, shady spot. When dry, shake off the excess soil, wrap the rhizomes in newspaper, and store them in a dark, cool location until spring. Check on them periodically to make sure they are not rotting or drying out.
The size and amount of blooms of cannas are linked to the number of "eyes" on a rhizome. The more eyes, the bigger plant and better blooms. Look for rhizomes with 3-5 eyes, and plant them in spring with the eyes facing up 4 to 5 inches deep. Or, if you'd like to get a head start on the season, pot them up indoors, four to six weeks before your last frost, and move them out once the temperature warms. Keep the rhizomes moist but not soaking wet.
Varieties of Cannas
'Lucifer': red flowers with yellow borders; green leaves; 2 feet tall
'The President': scarlet blossoms; green leaves; 3 to 3.5 feet tall
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): orange flowers; yellow and green striped foliage; 4 to 6 feet tall
'Stuttgart': orange flowers; green and white variegated foliage; 3 to 4 feet tall
'Tropicanna': dark variegated leaves with large, orange flowers; also comes in Black and Gold; 4 to 6 feet tall
Pruning
To keep your plants flowering throughout the season, deadhead them as the blooms start to fade. If you prefer to grow cannas for their foliage alone, you can cut back the flower stalks before they even have a chance to bloom.
Landscape Uses
Cannas can't help but be focal points. A single specimen can anchor a circle garden. Planted in a mass, they can look both tropical and Victorian. The colors and tropical feel combine well with other "hot" colors.
There's even a variety of canna that grows in extremely wet soil--or even in water gardens. This plant is a hybrid of Canna glauca. They look gorgeous in bog gardens, or can be planted in baskets in water gardens.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月21日
Cannas (Canna spp.) are a genus of beautiful, easy-to-grow tropical and sub-tropical plants with showy flowers that come in red, pink, yellow, orange, and cream. Their flowers are very attractive to hummingbirds. Canna leaves are wide and long (resembling banana leaves) in green, bronze, or multicolored patterns. Most cannas grow up to 6 feet tall and occasionally as tall as 8 feet. These plants grow from rhizomes, modified stems that store nutrients and send up shoots.
Throughout their hardiness zone, cannas can remain in the ground as true perennials. In colder climates, the rhizomes can be lifted in the fall, stored over winter, and replanted in the spring. Best planted from rhizomes in the early spring, cannas can take a few weeks to sprout. After sprouting, they grow at a fairly quick pace and typically flower in their first year.
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Canna
Common Name Canna, canna lily
Plant Type Flowering perennial (annual in colder zones)
Mature Size 1 1/2– 8 feet tall, 1 1/2–6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink, cream, white; solid color or with contrasting spots
Hardiness Zones 7 to 10 ( USDA); rhizomes must be dug and stored over winter in colder climates
Native Areas South America, Central America, West Indies, Mexico, southeastern United States
Canna Care
In the garden, plant canna rhizomes horizontally in a planting hole four to six inches deep, fill the planting hole with soil and then add a thick layer of mulch. Space rhizomes 18 to 24 inches apart. These plants don't like to be crowded, and if other plants encroach they might refuse to bloom.
In colder climates, after the first frost in fall, cut the canna back to the ground. Carefully dig up the rhizome clumps and store them through the winter in peat moss or vermiculite in a location that doesn't fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray the rhizomes with water infrequently to prevent them from drying out, but don't allow them to sit in a consistently damp medium. You can bring container-grown plants indoors in their pots.
Canna leaves have a waxy coating that helps resist fungal diseases. They are also generally resistant to pest problems, although you might find caterpillars or grasshoppers eating the leaves—remove them by hand.
Light
These plants prefer full sun to grow vibrant leaves and flowers, but they can survive in partial sun. Just make sure that the soil doesn't become overly moist.
Soil
Cannas can tolerate a variety of soils with proper drainage. They prefer rich soils that are high in organic matter. A soil pH of roughly 6.5 is ideal, but cannas can handle a wide range of acidic to alkaline soils.
Water
Water your canna once or twice a week. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but not soggy. Otherwise, this can lead to rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Cannas are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost, but they thrive in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas that have relatively cool springtime temperatures, canna growth might start slowly.
In cooler climates, Zones 7 and lower, you can get a head start on the growing season by starting them indoors in pots and then move them outdoors once they are actively growing and all danger of frost has passed.
These plants are native to tropical zones, so they also do well in warm and humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate, you can raise the humidity around a container plant by placing it on a dish filled with water and pebbles, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water.
Fertilizer
Cannas are heavy feeders. So use plenty of compost or organic fertilizer to keep the plant happy. If you are using organic materials, you cannot overfertilize a canna. Feed monthly throughout the growing season, starting in the early spring, with a balanced fertilizer.
Canna Varieties
There are hundreds of varieties of cannas, ranging in color and size. Some popular varieties include:
'King Humbert': an older variety with dark bronze-purple foliage and large red to orange-red flowers
'Shenandoah': bears deep pink flowers with burgundy leaves
'Tropicana': produces orange flowers with leaves striped with burgundy, gold, yellow, pink, and green
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): bicolored orange flowers and yellow and green striped foliage
'The President': very large scarlet flowers provide striking contrast with its deep green foliage
'Stuttgart': produces orange flowers and is distinguished by its bold striped green-and-white foliage
Pruning
Cannas generally do not need pruning, but deadheading the flowers (once they have faded) will produce more blooms. If you prize the foliage of your cannas over their flowers, you can cut off the flower stalks before they bloom to enable the plants to direct their energy toward the foliage.
Propagating Cannas
Cannas are readily propagated by digging up the rhizomes and dividing them for replanting. Do this early in the spring or in the fall.
Carefully dig up the entire plant, taking care not to damage the rhizomes or the roots of the mother plant. Trim the above-ground growth so only about 1 inch extends from the crown (where the stems meet the rhizomes).
Clean excess soil from the rhizomes and note where the old rhizomes meet the new; cut along these joints to separate the rhizomes, making sure each piece has one or more eyes. If dividing in the fall, store them for the winter, then replant in the spring.
Plant each rhizome division in prepared soil at a depth of four to six inches.
Growing Cannas in Containers
Cannas are large plants, so bigger is better in terms of choosing an appropriate container. Choose a container that is no smaller than 16 inches in diameter with adequate drainage holes. A large container is not only important for aesthetic reasons of scale, A large container also gives the plant space to grow a strong and healthy root system, and prevents the container from becoming top heavy and tipping over as the plant matures.
Make sure the container has good drainage, and fill it with quality potting soil. Because cannas are heavy feeders, mix some slow-release fertilizer into your potting soil before you plant.
If you live in a cold-winter climate and have saved rhizomes from last year's plants, you can get a head start on the next growing season by potting up the rhizomes indoors four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. Maintain adequate moisture but do not make the soil overly wet. Move the pots outdoors or plant in the ground after the danger of frost has passed.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles delight in chewing holes in canna leaves and flowers. But the worst pest is a caterpillar known as the canna leaf roller. The canna leaf roller moth lays its eggs in the bud of a growing stalk, and the hatching caterpillars leave a sticky webbing that prevents the leaf from unfurling. Remove a leaf if you see that it's unable to unfurl, and consider spraying the plant with insecticidal soap if pests are present
Cannas also are susceptible to rust fungus, canna mosaic virus, and aster yellows. Observe foliage that appears sickly and discolored. With rust fungus, you often can simply remove the affected leaves. But with canna mosaic virus and aster yellows, you often have to dispose of the entire plant.
Throughout their hardiness zone, cannas can remain in the ground as true perennials. In colder climates, the rhizomes can be lifted in the fall, stored over winter, and replanted in the spring. Best planted from rhizomes in the early spring, cannas can take a few weeks to sprout. After sprouting, they grow at a fairly quick pace and typically flower in their first year.
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Canna
Common Name Canna, canna lily
Plant Type Flowering perennial (annual in colder zones)
Mature Size 1 1/2– 8 feet tall, 1 1/2–6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink, cream, white; solid color or with contrasting spots
Hardiness Zones 7 to 10 ( USDA); rhizomes must be dug and stored over winter in colder climates
Native Areas South America, Central America, West Indies, Mexico, southeastern United States
Canna Care
In the garden, plant canna rhizomes horizontally in a planting hole four to six inches deep, fill the planting hole with soil and then add a thick layer of mulch. Space rhizomes 18 to 24 inches apart. These plants don't like to be crowded, and if other plants encroach they might refuse to bloom.
In colder climates, after the first frost in fall, cut the canna back to the ground. Carefully dig up the rhizome clumps and store them through the winter in peat moss or vermiculite in a location that doesn't fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray the rhizomes with water infrequently to prevent them from drying out, but don't allow them to sit in a consistently damp medium. You can bring container-grown plants indoors in their pots.
Canna leaves have a waxy coating that helps resist fungal diseases. They are also generally resistant to pest problems, although you might find caterpillars or grasshoppers eating the leaves—remove them by hand.
Light
These plants prefer full sun to grow vibrant leaves and flowers, but they can survive in partial sun. Just make sure that the soil doesn't become overly moist.
Soil
Cannas can tolerate a variety of soils with proper drainage. They prefer rich soils that are high in organic matter. A soil pH of roughly 6.5 is ideal, but cannas can handle a wide range of acidic to alkaline soils.
Water
Water your canna once or twice a week. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but not soggy. Otherwise, this can lead to rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Cannas are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost, but they thrive in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas that have relatively cool springtime temperatures, canna growth might start slowly.
In cooler climates, Zones 7 and lower, you can get a head start on the growing season by starting them indoors in pots and then move them outdoors once they are actively growing and all danger of frost has passed.
These plants are native to tropical zones, so they also do well in warm and humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate, you can raise the humidity around a container plant by placing it on a dish filled with water and pebbles, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water.
Fertilizer
Cannas are heavy feeders. So use plenty of compost or organic fertilizer to keep the plant happy. If you are using organic materials, you cannot overfertilize a canna. Feed monthly throughout the growing season, starting in the early spring, with a balanced fertilizer.
Canna Varieties
There are hundreds of varieties of cannas, ranging in color and size. Some popular varieties include:
'King Humbert': an older variety with dark bronze-purple foliage and large red to orange-red flowers
'Shenandoah': bears deep pink flowers with burgundy leaves
'Tropicana': produces orange flowers with leaves striped with burgundy, gold, yellow, pink, and green
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): bicolored orange flowers and yellow and green striped foliage
'The President': very large scarlet flowers provide striking contrast with its deep green foliage
'Stuttgart': produces orange flowers and is distinguished by its bold striped green-and-white foliage
Pruning
Cannas generally do not need pruning, but deadheading the flowers (once they have faded) will produce more blooms. If you prize the foliage of your cannas over their flowers, you can cut off the flower stalks before they bloom to enable the plants to direct their energy toward the foliage.
Propagating Cannas
Cannas are readily propagated by digging up the rhizomes and dividing them for replanting. Do this early in the spring or in the fall.
Carefully dig up the entire plant, taking care not to damage the rhizomes or the roots of the mother plant. Trim the above-ground growth so only about 1 inch extends from the crown (where the stems meet the rhizomes).
Clean excess soil from the rhizomes and note where the old rhizomes meet the new; cut along these joints to separate the rhizomes, making sure each piece has one or more eyes. If dividing in the fall, store them for the winter, then replant in the spring.
Plant each rhizome division in prepared soil at a depth of four to six inches.
Growing Cannas in Containers
Cannas are large plants, so bigger is better in terms of choosing an appropriate container. Choose a container that is no smaller than 16 inches in diameter with adequate drainage holes. A large container is not only important for aesthetic reasons of scale, A large container also gives the plant space to grow a strong and healthy root system, and prevents the container from becoming top heavy and tipping over as the plant matures.
Make sure the container has good drainage, and fill it with quality potting soil. Because cannas are heavy feeders, mix some slow-release fertilizer into your potting soil before you plant.
If you live in a cold-winter climate and have saved rhizomes from last year's plants, you can get a head start on the next growing season by potting up the rhizomes indoors four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. Maintain adequate moisture but do not make the soil overly wet. Move the pots outdoors or plant in the ground after the danger of frost has passed.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles delight in chewing holes in canna leaves and flowers. But the worst pest is a caterpillar known as the canna leaf roller. The canna leaf roller moth lays its eggs in the bud of a growing stalk, and the hatching caterpillars leave a sticky webbing that prevents the leaf from unfurling. Remove a leaf if you see that it's unable to unfurl, and consider spraying the plant with insecticidal soap if pests are present
Cannas also are susceptible to rust fungus, canna mosaic virus, and aster yellows. Observe foliage that appears sickly and discolored. With rust fungus, you often can simply remove the affected leaves. But with canna mosaic virus and aster yellows, you often have to dispose of the entire plant.
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