文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月17日
Baby's breath plants (Gypsophila spp.) have become somewhat of a cliché in floral arrangements. But they also can look lovely in the garden. There are more than 100 annual and perennial species within this genus with varying appearances. Some have a creeping growth habit, forming an attractive flowering ground cover. And others grow in more upright and contained mounds with extensive branching of their slender stems, giving the plants a light and airy feel. Their small, narrow leaves are gray-green to blue-green in color. In the summer, baby’s breath plants are covered in tiny, five-petaled, white or pink flowers that last several weeks. The blooms are known to attract butterflies and other pollinators. Baby’s breath should be planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. The plants have a fast growth rate.
Botanical Name Gypsophila
Common Name Baby's breath
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Baby's Breath Care
Baby’s breath plants generally require very little maintenance. Plant them in a spot that gets lots of light and has good soil drainage, and they’ll practically take care of themselves. Plus, they rarely have serious issues with pests or diseases.
You’ll typically only need to water during dry spells and feed annually. Once your plants mature, you might need to provide them with support, such as garden stakes, to prevent the thin stems from flopping over. You also can proactively install stakes at the time of planting that the baby’s breath can grow around. These plants don’t need deadheading (removing spent blooms). But they can benefit from a light pruning after flowering, which will help to maintain their shape and might promote another bloom.
Light
Baby's breath plants grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But they will tolerate a bit of shade, especially from hot afternoon sun. However, too much shade will result in leggy plants and poor flowering.
Soil
Baby's breath plants can grow in a range of soil types, as long as they have good drainage. Sandy soil works well whereas wet clay soil does not. So if your soil is heavy, consider planting baby's breath in raised garden beds or containers. These plants also like a slightly alkaline soil pH, so if your soil is acidic sweeten it with an application of garden lime.
Water
Baby’s breath has low water needs and thrives in dry soil. Keep the soil moderately moist for young plants. But then you typically won’t have to water established plants unless you have an extended period of drought. Overwatering can cause root rot and kill the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Baby’s breath can tolerate a range of temperatures within its growing zones. Some species have more cold tolerance than others. These plants prefer a dry climate over a humid one. So if you have high humidity, it’s imperative to make sure your plant has excellent soil drainage and isn’t sitting in constant moisture.
Fertilizer
These plants aren’t heavy feeders, and too much fertilizer can cause floppy growth. To promote healthy growth and profuse blooms, simply work some compost into the planting site each spring.
Baby's Breath Varieties
There is a diversity to the Gypsophila genus that you might not expect if you only know baby's breath from the floral trade. Here are some different varieties of the plant:
Gypsophila elegans: This species is considered an annual, but it tends to self-seed and come back in the garden year after year. It features notably large, open blooms compared to other baby’s breath species.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Bristol Fairy’: This cultivar sports double blooms that are white and roughly 1/4 inch wide. It grows in mounds that reach around 2 to 3 feet tall and wide.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Compacta Plena’: This is a compact variety that grows in mounds only around 15 to 18 inches tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar to those on the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Perfekta’: This variety can grow up to 3 feet tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar in appearance to the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar except that they’re around twice the size.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Viette’s Dwarf’: This is another compact cultivar that only reaches around 12 to 15 inches tall and wide and thus typically won’t need staking to keep it upright. It features double flowers in pink that slowly fade to white.
Botanical Name Gypsophila
Common Name Baby's breath
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Baby's Breath Care
Baby’s breath plants generally require very little maintenance. Plant them in a spot that gets lots of light and has good soil drainage, and they’ll practically take care of themselves. Plus, they rarely have serious issues with pests or diseases.
You’ll typically only need to water during dry spells and feed annually. Once your plants mature, you might need to provide them with support, such as garden stakes, to prevent the thin stems from flopping over. You also can proactively install stakes at the time of planting that the baby’s breath can grow around. These plants don’t need deadheading (removing spent blooms). But they can benefit from a light pruning after flowering, which will help to maintain their shape and might promote another bloom.
Light
Baby's breath plants grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But they will tolerate a bit of shade, especially from hot afternoon sun. However, too much shade will result in leggy plants and poor flowering.
Soil
Baby's breath plants can grow in a range of soil types, as long as they have good drainage. Sandy soil works well whereas wet clay soil does not. So if your soil is heavy, consider planting baby's breath in raised garden beds or containers. These plants also like a slightly alkaline soil pH, so if your soil is acidic sweeten it with an application of garden lime.
Water
Baby’s breath has low water needs and thrives in dry soil. Keep the soil moderately moist for young plants. But then you typically won’t have to water established plants unless you have an extended period of drought. Overwatering can cause root rot and kill the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Baby’s breath can tolerate a range of temperatures within its growing zones. Some species have more cold tolerance than others. These plants prefer a dry climate over a humid one. So if you have high humidity, it’s imperative to make sure your plant has excellent soil drainage and isn’t sitting in constant moisture.
Fertilizer
These plants aren’t heavy feeders, and too much fertilizer can cause floppy growth. To promote healthy growth and profuse blooms, simply work some compost into the planting site each spring.
Baby's Breath Varieties
There is a diversity to the Gypsophila genus that you might not expect if you only know baby's breath from the floral trade. Here are some different varieties of the plant:
Gypsophila elegans: This species is considered an annual, but it tends to self-seed and come back in the garden year after year. It features notably large, open blooms compared to other baby’s breath species.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Bristol Fairy’: This cultivar sports double blooms that are white and roughly 1/4 inch wide. It grows in mounds that reach around 2 to 3 feet tall and wide.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Compacta Plena’: This is a compact variety that grows in mounds only around 15 to 18 inches tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar to those on the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Perfekta’: This variety can grow up to 3 feet tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar in appearance to the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar except that they’re around twice the size.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Viette’s Dwarf’: This is another compact cultivar that only reaches around 12 to 15 inches tall and wide and thus typically won’t need staking to keep it upright. It features double flowers in pink that slowly fade to white.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月13日
Peperomia (Peperomia spp.) belongs to a wonderful genus of tropical plants native to Mexico, South America, and the Caribbean. With more than 1,000 known species, these hearty plants boast thick, fleshy leaves that contribute to their drought tolerance and vigor. If you haven't experienced much luck with flowering houseplants, you will appreciate that the peperomia sports ornamental foliage. Its leaves can be textured or smooth in red, green, gray, or purple; variegated, marbled, or solid; large, heart-shaped, or tiny. Plants in the peperomia genus can look so different from one to the next that it's difficult to discern if they are even related. All peperomia plants are low maintenance, slow-growing, and can be planted all year long.
Common Names Baby rubber plant, pepper elder, radiator plant, shining bush plant, emerald ripper pepper
Botanical Name Peperomia spp. (including P. caperata, P. obtusifolia, and others)
Family Piperaceae
Plant Type Perennial, epiphyte
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full or partial
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, green, brown
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Central America, South America, and the Caribbean
Peperomia Plant Care
The peperomia plant is a smart choice for beginner houseplant enthusiasts. Not only are they forgiving plants that tolerate some benign neglect, but the spectacular variety of colors and textures available within the species means that you can amass an interesting collection of plants for every style and space, all of which require the same care.
Plant peperomia in a pot with ample drainage holes, using an orchid potting mix, then place the plant in bright indirect light. Peperomia plants require little in the way of attention. You only need to water them when the soil is dry. Plant food or fertilizer is rarely necessary.
Light
Peperomia plants need medium to bright light to maintain their vibrant foliage colors. Morning light and filtered light are fine, or you can do 12 to 16 hours of artificial light. Insufficient light will result in fewer leaves, leaf drop, and drab coloration. Direct sun rays should be avoided, as they can burn the leaves.
Soil
Many peperomia plant species grow as epiphytes, which means in the wild, they might settle into the nook of a tree and send their roots into some slightly decaying bark. The key to a thriving peperomia is choosing a soil blend that mimics these conditions—chunky, loose, and acidic. An orchid potting medium typically works well, but regular potting soil is fine too. You can always lighten it with a handful of peat moss or vermiculite.
Water
The peperomia has succulent leaves that indicate that these plants don't need frequent watering to maintain vigor. Allow the surface of the soil to dry out between waterings. Keeping the peperomia on the dry side is better than saturating it. Soggy soil can lead to root rot and fungus gnat problems.1
Temperature and Humidity
Outdoors, peperomia plants are hardy to USDA zone 10; they cannot be exposed to temperatures less than 30 degrees Fahrenheit. As tropical plants, peperomia plants prefer a warm and steamy environment, especially in the summer months when their growth is most active. If your plant doesn't get an outdoor vacation in the summer, place it on a tray of pebbles and water to increase ambient humidity, or invest in a small-scale humidifier to place nearby.
Fertilizer
When it comes to fertilizing peperomia plants, less is more. Discolored or dropping leaves are usually a sign of inadequate light or excessive watering, not poor nutrition. As a slow-growing epiphyte, the peperomia can go its entire life without supplemental fertilizer, getting what it needs from its planting media.
Types of Peperomia
There are hundreds of different varieties of peperomia plants, many of which make exceptional houseplants. Some of the most popular varietals include:
Peperomia verticillata 'Belly Button': An eye-catching varietal with a compact form and tiny leaves, somewhat reminiscent of the baby tears plant
Peperomia metallica var. Colombiana: A dazzling, tri-colored plant with foliage of bronze, silver, and red
Peperomia nitida (cupid peperomia): A varietal that's ideal for hanging baskets, complete with heart-shaped leaves edged in cream
P. perciliata: A trailing varietal that has a tight growth habit and produces oval-shaped foliage and red stems
Peperomia caperata 'Suzanne': A unique plant with deeply ridged foliage and silver accents
Pruning
Lightly prune peperomia plants in the early spring to correct any leggy, sparse growth. Pinching back the stems will help maximize the plant's lush appearance by encouraging more branching. Remove the end of each stem and the first set of leaves; you can pinch them off with your fingers or snip them off with hand pruners.
Propagating Peperomia Plants
Peperomia plants can be propagated at any time, although springtime is when its growth is more active and likely the best time. If you're already planning to prune your plants in the spring, you can take a stem's extra leggy growth and easily propagate from that stem cutting. Here's how:
First, you'll need sterile pruning snips or scissors, a small pot, potting soil or orchid mix, plastic wrap, and a brightly lit location.
Cut off a leaf including at least an inch of its stem from the mother plant.
Place the cutting in a small container filled with potting soil, cut-end down. Place it in a bright spot with a lot of indirect light. Cover with plastic wrap to create a mini-greenhouse environment to help it retain moisture.
Water consistently and never let the soil dry out. Roots will form within a few weeks; then, you can transplant your cutting into a larger container once it outgrows its original one.
How to Grow Peperomia From Seed
To grow peperomia from seed, you'll need a soilless seed starting mix, sufficient water, and a warm, bright sunny spot to germinate peperomia seeds. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs. It can take 15 to 30 days for seedlings to emerge. Transplant the young seedlings into a container with a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 (orchid mix works well). Place the plant in a bright spot with indirect sun. Avoid overwatering as the plant grows.
Potting and Repotting Peperomia Plants
Peperomia plants can live for years in a relatively small container. They enjoy a somewhat root-bound existence, and this, combined with their slow growth rate, means you can leave them alone until you see roots coming out of the drainage holes. If you're moving your seedling from a small, 2-inch container, upgrade to a container that is 2-inches deeper and wider at the brim. Use an acidic potting mix or orchid bark.
Container culture is the most popular way to grow peperomia plants. Choose a container that has excellent aeration to foster a healthy root system. An orchid pot with large openings is suitable, provided you use orchid bark that won't fall out of the drainage holes. Terracotta pots are also excellent containers for peperomia because their porous nature keeps soil from becoming too wet if you overwater by mistake.
Overwintering
Peperomia will turn to mush outdoors if you get freezing temperatures. Bring your peperomia plant inside if you live in a zone that is less than 10 on the hardiness zone map. In the winter, you can significantly reduce the amount of water it gets. Some do not water this plant at all during the winter months.
How to Get Peperomia to Bloom
Peperomia rarely flower when kept as houseplants, but they occasionally do. Their unscented blooms appear as spindly spikes of brown and greenish-white. They don't look like flowers; you might even think they're offshoots, detracting from the look of the plant. You can cut them at the base of the shoot or leave them to fall off once the flower withers naturally. Its natural bloom time is summer, but if you have lighting and temperatures indoors that mimic summer, it can bloom anytime indoors.
Common Pests
Peperomia plants are subject to common pests that can affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, and whiteflies. Insecticidal soap is the easiest treatment for these pests.
Common Problems With Peperomia
Peperomia is a low-maintenance plant that doesn't need much water. Once you've identified a bright but not direct sun location—and you remember to check the soil every once in a while—this slow-grower is not usually fussy. However, here are some signs that your plant might need some additional care.
Discolored, Droopy Leaves and Rotting Smell
Root rot is a disease that is caused by overwatering your plant. You may also notice a rotting smell. Mushy stems are often a sign of a fungal infection. To prevent root rot or fungal disease, make sure that the plant’s soil is completely dry to the touch before you water it. If you catch it quick enough, you can remedy this plant without throwing it all out. Sterilize your pot in a diluted bleach solution. You will need fresh, well-draining soil. Pull out the infected plant from the pot, and cut away any rotting, black or dark brown, mushy roots. Wash the remaining healthy roots. Lay the plant out and allow the roots to dry for a few hours. Then, repot it in the clean pot with fresh soil.
Leaves Curling or Yellowing
In most cases, when peperomia leaves turn yellow or start curling, it means it's getting too much water. Remove the yellowed leaves. You can remove the plant from the pot and add some rocks to the bottom layer of the pot to improve drainage. This prevents the bottom of the roots from sitting in standing water.
Deformed Leaves
Ring spot is caused by the cucumber mosaic virus and is diagnosed when you see deformed leaves. It is often the cause of the plant being overwatered. Pull off the deformed leaves, and the plant should grow back healthy. To prevent this disease from reoccurring, make sure you water the plant only when the soil is dry.
Wilting
If you notice that your plant seems to be wilting, then it is probably not getting enough air to its roots. Repot the plant and use more gravel into the potting soil.
Moldy Soil
Overwatering causes whitish mold to grow on the surface of the soil. To prevent this condition, only water when the soil is dry. To fix it, remove the top layer of soil and replace it. Or, if the mold appears to go down deep, wash the pot and completely replace the soil with a sterile mix.
Leaf Drop
If your peperomia is losing its leaves and you're not overwatering the plant, then try to move it to a spot with a little more bright light. Do not put it in direct sun, but you can relocate the plant near a window with direct light.
Common Names Baby rubber plant, pepper elder, radiator plant, shining bush plant, emerald ripper pepper
Botanical Name Peperomia spp. (including P. caperata, P. obtusifolia, and others)
Family Piperaceae
Plant Type Perennial, epiphyte
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full or partial
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, green, brown
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Central America, South America, and the Caribbean
Peperomia Plant Care
The peperomia plant is a smart choice for beginner houseplant enthusiasts. Not only are they forgiving plants that tolerate some benign neglect, but the spectacular variety of colors and textures available within the species means that you can amass an interesting collection of plants for every style and space, all of which require the same care.
Plant peperomia in a pot with ample drainage holes, using an orchid potting mix, then place the plant in bright indirect light. Peperomia plants require little in the way of attention. You only need to water them when the soil is dry. Plant food or fertilizer is rarely necessary.
Light
Peperomia plants need medium to bright light to maintain their vibrant foliage colors. Morning light and filtered light are fine, or you can do 12 to 16 hours of artificial light. Insufficient light will result in fewer leaves, leaf drop, and drab coloration. Direct sun rays should be avoided, as they can burn the leaves.
Soil
Many peperomia plant species grow as epiphytes, which means in the wild, they might settle into the nook of a tree and send their roots into some slightly decaying bark. The key to a thriving peperomia is choosing a soil blend that mimics these conditions—chunky, loose, and acidic. An orchid potting medium typically works well, but regular potting soil is fine too. You can always lighten it with a handful of peat moss or vermiculite.
Water
The peperomia has succulent leaves that indicate that these plants don't need frequent watering to maintain vigor. Allow the surface of the soil to dry out between waterings. Keeping the peperomia on the dry side is better than saturating it. Soggy soil can lead to root rot and fungus gnat problems.1
Temperature and Humidity
Outdoors, peperomia plants are hardy to USDA zone 10; they cannot be exposed to temperatures less than 30 degrees Fahrenheit. As tropical plants, peperomia plants prefer a warm and steamy environment, especially in the summer months when their growth is most active. If your plant doesn't get an outdoor vacation in the summer, place it on a tray of pebbles and water to increase ambient humidity, or invest in a small-scale humidifier to place nearby.
Fertilizer
When it comes to fertilizing peperomia plants, less is more. Discolored or dropping leaves are usually a sign of inadequate light or excessive watering, not poor nutrition. As a slow-growing epiphyte, the peperomia can go its entire life without supplemental fertilizer, getting what it needs from its planting media.
Types of Peperomia
There are hundreds of different varieties of peperomia plants, many of which make exceptional houseplants. Some of the most popular varietals include:
Peperomia verticillata 'Belly Button': An eye-catching varietal with a compact form and tiny leaves, somewhat reminiscent of the baby tears plant
Peperomia metallica var. Colombiana: A dazzling, tri-colored plant with foliage of bronze, silver, and red
Peperomia nitida (cupid peperomia): A varietal that's ideal for hanging baskets, complete with heart-shaped leaves edged in cream
P. perciliata: A trailing varietal that has a tight growth habit and produces oval-shaped foliage and red stems
Peperomia caperata 'Suzanne': A unique plant with deeply ridged foliage and silver accents
Pruning
Lightly prune peperomia plants in the early spring to correct any leggy, sparse growth. Pinching back the stems will help maximize the plant's lush appearance by encouraging more branching. Remove the end of each stem and the first set of leaves; you can pinch them off with your fingers or snip them off with hand pruners.
Propagating Peperomia Plants
Peperomia plants can be propagated at any time, although springtime is when its growth is more active and likely the best time. If you're already planning to prune your plants in the spring, you can take a stem's extra leggy growth and easily propagate from that stem cutting. Here's how:
First, you'll need sterile pruning snips or scissors, a small pot, potting soil or orchid mix, plastic wrap, and a brightly lit location.
Cut off a leaf including at least an inch of its stem from the mother plant.
Place the cutting in a small container filled with potting soil, cut-end down. Place it in a bright spot with a lot of indirect light. Cover with plastic wrap to create a mini-greenhouse environment to help it retain moisture.
Water consistently and never let the soil dry out. Roots will form within a few weeks; then, you can transplant your cutting into a larger container once it outgrows its original one.
How to Grow Peperomia From Seed
To grow peperomia from seed, you'll need a soilless seed starting mix, sufficient water, and a warm, bright sunny spot to germinate peperomia seeds. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs. It can take 15 to 30 days for seedlings to emerge. Transplant the young seedlings into a container with a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 (orchid mix works well). Place the plant in a bright spot with indirect sun. Avoid overwatering as the plant grows.
Potting and Repotting Peperomia Plants
Peperomia plants can live for years in a relatively small container. They enjoy a somewhat root-bound existence, and this, combined with their slow growth rate, means you can leave them alone until you see roots coming out of the drainage holes. If you're moving your seedling from a small, 2-inch container, upgrade to a container that is 2-inches deeper and wider at the brim. Use an acidic potting mix or orchid bark.
Container culture is the most popular way to grow peperomia plants. Choose a container that has excellent aeration to foster a healthy root system. An orchid pot with large openings is suitable, provided you use orchid bark that won't fall out of the drainage holes. Terracotta pots are also excellent containers for peperomia because their porous nature keeps soil from becoming too wet if you overwater by mistake.
Overwintering
Peperomia will turn to mush outdoors if you get freezing temperatures. Bring your peperomia plant inside if you live in a zone that is less than 10 on the hardiness zone map. In the winter, you can significantly reduce the amount of water it gets. Some do not water this plant at all during the winter months.
How to Get Peperomia to Bloom
Peperomia rarely flower when kept as houseplants, but they occasionally do. Their unscented blooms appear as spindly spikes of brown and greenish-white. They don't look like flowers; you might even think they're offshoots, detracting from the look of the plant. You can cut them at the base of the shoot or leave them to fall off once the flower withers naturally. Its natural bloom time is summer, but if you have lighting and temperatures indoors that mimic summer, it can bloom anytime indoors.
Common Pests
Peperomia plants are subject to common pests that can affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, and whiteflies. Insecticidal soap is the easiest treatment for these pests.
Common Problems With Peperomia
Peperomia is a low-maintenance plant that doesn't need much water. Once you've identified a bright but not direct sun location—and you remember to check the soil every once in a while—this slow-grower is not usually fussy. However, here are some signs that your plant might need some additional care.
Discolored, Droopy Leaves and Rotting Smell
Root rot is a disease that is caused by overwatering your plant. You may also notice a rotting smell. Mushy stems are often a sign of a fungal infection. To prevent root rot or fungal disease, make sure that the plant’s soil is completely dry to the touch before you water it. If you catch it quick enough, you can remedy this plant without throwing it all out. Sterilize your pot in a diluted bleach solution. You will need fresh, well-draining soil. Pull out the infected plant from the pot, and cut away any rotting, black or dark brown, mushy roots. Wash the remaining healthy roots. Lay the plant out and allow the roots to dry for a few hours. Then, repot it in the clean pot with fresh soil.
Leaves Curling or Yellowing
In most cases, when peperomia leaves turn yellow or start curling, it means it's getting too much water. Remove the yellowed leaves. You can remove the plant from the pot and add some rocks to the bottom layer of the pot to improve drainage. This prevents the bottom of the roots from sitting in standing water.
Deformed Leaves
Ring spot is caused by the cucumber mosaic virus and is diagnosed when you see deformed leaves. It is often the cause of the plant being overwatered. Pull off the deformed leaves, and the plant should grow back healthy. To prevent this disease from reoccurring, make sure you water the plant only when the soil is dry.
Wilting
If you notice that your plant seems to be wilting, then it is probably not getting enough air to its roots. Repot the plant and use more gravel into the potting soil.
Moldy Soil
Overwatering causes whitish mold to grow on the surface of the soil. To prevent this condition, only water when the soil is dry. To fix it, remove the top layer of soil and replace it. Or, if the mold appears to go down deep, wash the pot and completely replace the soil with a sterile mix.
Leaf Drop
If your peperomia is losing its leaves and you're not overwatering the plant, then try to move it to a spot with a little more bright light. Do not put it in direct sun, but you can relocate the plant near a window with direct light.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月10日
Is there a more welcome sight in spring than an azalea shrub in full bloom? These shade-loving plants can bring delightful color to all corners of the spring garden. Heirloom varieties can grow as high as twelve feet tall, with spectacular displays in spring. The range of colors is spectacular, from white to pale pink to a range of reds and purples. Most azaleas bloom in mid-spring (mid to late April), but some bloom earlier or later than others, and it's easy to choose a variety for your design needs. Like their larger cousins, the Rhododendron ferrugineum, the azalea's thick leaves can remain evergreen, though most varieties grown in the United States are deciduous.
In the garden industry, the names "azalea" and "rhododendron" are often used interchangeably, which can become confusing. One way to tell them apart at first glance is the size and shape of the blooms: traditional rhododendrons have large round clusters of flowers, whereas azalea blooms are more evenly distributed on the entire shrub. Rhododendron leaves are also larger, fleshier and darker green than azalea leaves. There are numerous cultivars, so do a bit of research before you buy to make sure you get the plant best suited for your needs. For example, some varieties are more cold hardy than others. There are also now many azalea-rhododendron hybrids, which makes for very hardy plants that are a more manageable size and that have a wide range of flower colors.
Botanical Name Rhododendron
Common Name Azalea
Plant Type Deciduous or evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3' to 12'
Soil Type Acidic
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0
Bloom Time Early to late spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (3 to 7, 5 to 9)
Native Areas Asia, Europe, North America
How to Grow Azaleas
Proper planting is key to success with these long-lived shrubs. Amending the soil will probably be necessary to ensure it gets a good start: have some peat moss and compost on hand to mix in with some good soil. Water in when planting and water daily for the first week until established.
Light
Azaleas flourish in shady spots, though they like a bit of sun: a few hours of morning sun is best, so the flowers don't wilt if a spring day becomes too hot. Most azaleas stay in bloom for about two weeks, barring rain or wind damage from a storm.
Soil
Azaleas love acidic soil; this explains why potted nursery plants usually have mostly peat moss for the planting medium. Soil should also have good drainage and good fertility with plenty of organic matter (compost, chopped leaves, etc.) and azaleas do best with a natural mulch such as pine bark mulch.
Water
Azaleas need water to bloom, and spring rain showers usually do the job. However, if the spring is dry, extra watering can be beneficial.
Temperature and Humidity
Azalea hardiness ranges between 3 and 9, with most of them having a narrower range at one end or the other (3 to 7 or 5 to 9). With ranges this narrow it's important the choose your plant and your planting site carefully. Too cold, and buds may not form; too hot, and flowers may burn from over exposure. Mildew can be a problem with azaleas; make sure they have plenty of air circulation and don't plant them too close to other large shrubs.
Garden Design Suggestions
Azaleas look great planted beneath trees or at the back of a border. They can make a great specimen planting in a prominent place by an entrance or patio also. Since the flowers are so showy, ideally you want your azaleas to bloom when your garden needs a boost of spring color. Maybe after your early blooming daffodils are fading, and before the peonies light up? You could also coordinate tulip plantings for striking color combinations. Consider orange tulips (like April-blooming "Orange Emperor" tulips) with pink azaleas, or purple tulips (like "Passionale" or "Negrita") with white or red azaleas. Having more than one variety of azalea with overlapping spring bloom times is an ideal scenario. There are some reblooming cultivars (the "Encore" series) that will give you blooms from spring through late summer.
Varieties to Choose
One can't flip through a garden catalog without seeing a new variety of azalea.Here are some tried and true ones, including newer hybrids.
"Rosy Lights" : This compact (4' to 6') deciduous cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) shrub blooms in late spring and features a sprightly flower in a rosy red color with hues of coral and blush. This is one of the "Northern Lights" azalea-rhododendron hybrids. The flowers are borne in "trusses" - not as round as traditional rhododendrons but not as diffused as traditional azaleas.
"Windbeam" : With smaller leaves and a tidy habit (3' to 4'), this popular cultivar features luminous pale pink flowers and olive green leaves that turn bronze in autumn. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it may need shelter from harsh winter winds, but it is more sun and heat tolerant than other azaleas. The spring display is stunning, beginning white and evolving to pink with tiny red freckles on the dorsal lobes.
"Golden Lights" : The bright golden-orange blooms on this "Northern Lights" cultivar offer a dramatic color for the spring landscape. Cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) and compact (3' to 6'), the flower trusses are flat and contain ten flowers each, in shades ranging from butter yellow to orange with salmon pink highlights.
"Fragrant Star" : The pure white flowers on this small (3' to 4') mid-spring bloomer have a heady, spicy fragrance. The leaves are a pleasing bluish green. It is quite heat tolerant but not as cold hardy as others (USDA 5 to 9), though can withstand cold temperatures as low as -20F, if sheltered from harsh winds.
"Gibraltar" : This popular azalea boasts frilly, faintly fragrant, bright orange flowers that emerge from crimson buds. It is medium height (4' to 5') and relatively cold hardy (USDA 5 to 8). This variety is also very mildew resistant.
Care and Maintenance
Azaleas benefit from mild pruning. They start forming buds in summer, so the best time to prune is right after the flowers drop off in late spring. Azaleas also do well if given some fertilizer. Without knowing the nutrients in your soil, a basic 15-15-15 fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is your best bet. But there are special products made just for azaleas: Espoma's "Azalea-Tone" is a good one. Fertilize in late winter or early spring, no later than the last week of March.
In the garden industry, the names "azalea" and "rhododendron" are often used interchangeably, which can become confusing. One way to tell them apart at first glance is the size and shape of the blooms: traditional rhododendrons have large round clusters of flowers, whereas azalea blooms are more evenly distributed on the entire shrub. Rhododendron leaves are also larger, fleshier and darker green than azalea leaves. There are numerous cultivars, so do a bit of research before you buy to make sure you get the plant best suited for your needs. For example, some varieties are more cold hardy than others. There are also now many azalea-rhododendron hybrids, which makes for very hardy plants that are a more manageable size and that have a wide range of flower colors.
Botanical Name Rhododendron
Common Name Azalea
Plant Type Deciduous or evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3' to 12'
Soil Type Acidic
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0
Bloom Time Early to late spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (3 to 7, 5 to 9)
Native Areas Asia, Europe, North America
How to Grow Azaleas
Proper planting is key to success with these long-lived shrubs. Amending the soil will probably be necessary to ensure it gets a good start: have some peat moss and compost on hand to mix in with some good soil. Water in when planting and water daily for the first week until established.
Light
Azaleas flourish in shady spots, though they like a bit of sun: a few hours of morning sun is best, so the flowers don't wilt if a spring day becomes too hot. Most azaleas stay in bloom for about two weeks, barring rain or wind damage from a storm.
Soil
Azaleas love acidic soil; this explains why potted nursery plants usually have mostly peat moss for the planting medium. Soil should also have good drainage and good fertility with plenty of organic matter (compost, chopped leaves, etc.) and azaleas do best with a natural mulch such as pine bark mulch.
Water
Azaleas need water to bloom, and spring rain showers usually do the job. However, if the spring is dry, extra watering can be beneficial.
Temperature and Humidity
Azalea hardiness ranges between 3 and 9, with most of them having a narrower range at one end or the other (3 to 7 or 5 to 9). With ranges this narrow it's important the choose your plant and your planting site carefully. Too cold, and buds may not form; too hot, and flowers may burn from over exposure. Mildew can be a problem with azaleas; make sure they have plenty of air circulation and don't plant them too close to other large shrubs.
Garden Design Suggestions
Azaleas look great planted beneath trees or at the back of a border. They can make a great specimen planting in a prominent place by an entrance or patio also. Since the flowers are so showy, ideally you want your azaleas to bloom when your garden needs a boost of spring color. Maybe after your early blooming daffodils are fading, and before the peonies light up? You could also coordinate tulip plantings for striking color combinations. Consider orange tulips (like April-blooming "Orange Emperor" tulips) with pink azaleas, or purple tulips (like "Passionale" or "Negrita") with white or red azaleas. Having more than one variety of azalea with overlapping spring bloom times is an ideal scenario. There are some reblooming cultivars (the "Encore" series) that will give you blooms from spring through late summer.
Varieties to Choose
One can't flip through a garden catalog without seeing a new variety of azalea.Here are some tried and true ones, including newer hybrids.
"Rosy Lights" : This compact (4' to 6') deciduous cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) shrub blooms in late spring and features a sprightly flower in a rosy red color with hues of coral and blush. This is one of the "Northern Lights" azalea-rhododendron hybrids. The flowers are borne in "trusses" - not as round as traditional rhododendrons but not as diffused as traditional azaleas.
"Windbeam" : With smaller leaves and a tidy habit (3' to 4'), this popular cultivar features luminous pale pink flowers and olive green leaves that turn bronze in autumn. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it may need shelter from harsh winter winds, but it is more sun and heat tolerant than other azaleas. The spring display is stunning, beginning white and evolving to pink with tiny red freckles on the dorsal lobes.
"Golden Lights" : The bright golden-orange blooms on this "Northern Lights" cultivar offer a dramatic color for the spring landscape. Cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) and compact (3' to 6'), the flower trusses are flat and contain ten flowers each, in shades ranging from butter yellow to orange with salmon pink highlights.
"Fragrant Star" : The pure white flowers on this small (3' to 4') mid-spring bloomer have a heady, spicy fragrance. The leaves are a pleasing bluish green. It is quite heat tolerant but not as cold hardy as others (USDA 5 to 9), though can withstand cold temperatures as low as -20F, if sheltered from harsh winds.
"Gibraltar" : This popular azalea boasts frilly, faintly fragrant, bright orange flowers that emerge from crimson buds. It is medium height (4' to 5') and relatively cold hardy (USDA 5 to 8). This variety is also very mildew resistant.
Care and Maintenance
Azaleas benefit from mild pruning. They start forming buds in summer, so the best time to prune is right after the flowers drop off in late spring. Azaleas also do well if given some fertilizer. Without knowing the nutrients in your soil, a basic 15-15-15 fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is your best bet. But there are special products made just for azaleas: Espoma's "Azalea-Tone" is a good one. Fertilize in late winter or early spring, no later than the last week of March.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月02日
Contrary to its name, the Australian tree fern is actually more tree than fern. Typically, when we think of ferns, we picture plants such as painted ferns (Athyrium niponicum), which achieve a mature height of just 18 inches. But in its native habitat of Australia, it can grow up to 25 feet or more. This tropical plant is easily too large for most indoor growing situations except for large greenhouses. Still, if your space and environment allow, it can be a beautiful addition to your landscape.
Characterized by lacy, feathery fronds, and a hair-like, scale-covered trunk, the fast-growing Australian tree fern can bring an exotic touch to any garden. It's best planted in the early spring and prefers warm temperatures and plentiful sunlight year-round.
Botanical Name Cyathea cooperi (also known by sphaeropteris cooperi)
Common Name Australian tree fern, Cooper's tree fern, lacy tree fern, scaly tree fern
Plant Type Evergreen fern
Mature Size 15–25 ft. tall, 10–12 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Non-flowering
Flower Color Non-flowering
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Australia
Australian Tree Fern Care
Australian tree ferns thrive in mid-elevation tropical environments, where they can sometimes be found growing in great, prehistoric forests swathed in tepid mist. The key to growing a healthy Australian tree fern is to provide it with ample humidity and consistency. Additionally, these plants are tolerant of salty winds near coastlines, but not salty soil conditions.
The trunk of the Australian tree fern starts out as a low, wide clump and spreads as much as six feet in a year before growing upward into a single slender trunk covered in glossy, ginger-brown hairs. The fronds are broad, bright green with triangular lacy leaves; they do not change color in the fall, and there are no flowers or fruit.
The Australian tree fern is one of the most commonly-used tree ferns in the tropics, but unless you live in Australia or a similar region, you may have to go out of your way to get an Australian tree fern. They're mostly grown as large, potted ornamentals in the United States and, when they are grown outdoors, are found mainly in public gardens and arboretums in tropical or semi-tropical zones. The plant has also naturalized itself in Hawaii, where it's regarded as invasive due to its fast growth and prolific self-propagation.
Light
Although Australian tree ferns are shade-loving plants in general, they can also thrive in partial sun or full sun locations where they get over six hours of light a day. Keep in mind, the more direct light the plant receives, the more likely it is that you'll need to increase your watering cadence.
Soil
Australian tree ferns can tolerate a variety of soil conditions including sand, loam, and clay. That being said, they will thrive best in a moist, loamy mixture that is rich but well-draining with a neutral to acidic pH level. It's also recommended that you add a layer of mulch around the tree, which will add more nutrients to the soil and act as a barrier to seal in moisture (particularly during very hot weather).
Water
Keep the soil moist at all times. Australian tree ferns are not drought-tolerant and need weekly watering, with especially high levels of moisture or humidity in dry weather. Avoid watering the crown directly as this can cause rot—instead, water the trunk and ensure it's consistently moist.
Temperature and Humidity
Australian tree ferns like a consistently warm and humid environment, with temperatures ranging from 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Australian tree ferns do not acclimate well to rapid changes in humidity or temperature, which can result in browning fronds. In colder areas, you can grow the fern in a container, giving you the flexibility to move it indoors for the fall and winter once temperatures drop too low.
Fertilizer
During the growing season, feed your Australian tree fern with controlled-release fertilizer monthly, or biweekly with weak liquid fertilizer. Larger specimens are heavier feeders and may require feeding every other week year-round.
Varieties of Australian Tree Ferns
There are about 1,000 different kinds of tree ferns, all found in tropical or subtropical settings. The New Zealand or Tasmanian tree fern is closely related, but the species is actually Dicksonia antarctica, and it tends to have a narrower crown than the Australian tree fern (but has similar growth requirements).
Potting and Repotting Australian Tree Ferns
An Australian tree fern will grow rapidly, so make sure you plant it somewhere in your landscape where it has room to grow and expand. If you're growing your tree fern in a container, replant it annually into a larger pot (with fresh soil). When the plant reaches the maximum size allowed by the growing space, stop repotting to slow growth. Eventually, it will likely outgrow both the pot and the room.
Common Pests and Diseases
While the Australian tree fern doesn't have any major issues with diseases or pests, it can be hit by the occasional bought of mites or mealybugs. Try first removing the infestation with strong sprays of water; if that doesn't work, treat the plant with neem oil or an insecticide until all signs of infestation have gone.
Characterized by lacy, feathery fronds, and a hair-like, scale-covered trunk, the fast-growing Australian tree fern can bring an exotic touch to any garden. It's best planted in the early spring and prefers warm temperatures and plentiful sunlight year-round.
Botanical Name Cyathea cooperi (also known by sphaeropteris cooperi)
Common Name Australian tree fern, Cooper's tree fern, lacy tree fern, scaly tree fern
Plant Type Evergreen fern
Mature Size 15–25 ft. tall, 10–12 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Non-flowering
Flower Color Non-flowering
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Australia
Australian Tree Fern Care
Australian tree ferns thrive in mid-elevation tropical environments, where they can sometimes be found growing in great, prehistoric forests swathed in tepid mist. The key to growing a healthy Australian tree fern is to provide it with ample humidity and consistency. Additionally, these plants are tolerant of salty winds near coastlines, but not salty soil conditions.
The trunk of the Australian tree fern starts out as a low, wide clump and spreads as much as six feet in a year before growing upward into a single slender trunk covered in glossy, ginger-brown hairs. The fronds are broad, bright green with triangular lacy leaves; they do not change color in the fall, and there are no flowers or fruit.
The Australian tree fern is one of the most commonly-used tree ferns in the tropics, but unless you live in Australia or a similar region, you may have to go out of your way to get an Australian tree fern. They're mostly grown as large, potted ornamentals in the United States and, when they are grown outdoors, are found mainly in public gardens and arboretums in tropical or semi-tropical zones. The plant has also naturalized itself in Hawaii, where it's regarded as invasive due to its fast growth and prolific self-propagation.
Light
Although Australian tree ferns are shade-loving plants in general, they can also thrive in partial sun or full sun locations where they get over six hours of light a day. Keep in mind, the more direct light the plant receives, the more likely it is that you'll need to increase your watering cadence.
Soil
Australian tree ferns can tolerate a variety of soil conditions including sand, loam, and clay. That being said, they will thrive best in a moist, loamy mixture that is rich but well-draining with a neutral to acidic pH level. It's also recommended that you add a layer of mulch around the tree, which will add more nutrients to the soil and act as a barrier to seal in moisture (particularly during very hot weather).
Water
Keep the soil moist at all times. Australian tree ferns are not drought-tolerant and need weekly watering, with especially high levels of moisture or humidity in dry weather. Avoid watering the crown directly as this can cause rot—instead, water the trunk and ensure it's consistently moist.
Temperature and Humidity
Australian tree ferns like a consistently warm and humid environment, with temperatures ranging from 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Australian tree ferns do not acclimate well to rapid changes in humidity or temperature, which can result in browning fronds. In colder areas, you can grow the fern in a container, giving you the flexibility to move it indoors for the fall and winter once temperatures drop too low.
Fertilizer
During the growing season, feed your Australian tree fern with controlled-release fertilizer monthly, or biweekly with weak liquid fertilizer. Larger specimens are heavier feeders and may require feeding every other week year-round.
Varieties of Australian Tree Ferns
There are about 1,000 different kinds of tree ferns, all found in tropical or subtropical settings. The New Zealand or Tasmanian tree fern is closely related, but the species is actually Dicksonia antarctica, and it tends to have a narrower crown than the Australian tree fern (but has similar growth requirements).
Potting and Repotting Australian Tree Ferns
An Australian tree fern will grow rapidly, so make sure you plant it somewhere in your landscape where it has room to grow and expand. If you're growing your tree fern in a container, replant it annually into a larger pot (with fresh soil). When the plant reaches the maximum size allowed by the growing space, stop repotting to slow growth. Eventually, it will likely outgrow both the pot and the room.
Common Pests and Diseases
While the Australian tree fern doesn't have any major issues with diseases or pests, it can be hit by the occasional bought of mites or mealybugs. Try first removing the infestation with strong sprays of water; if that doesn't work, treat the plant with neem oil or an insecticide until all signs of infestation have gone.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月29日
It's a cruel trick of Mother Nature that that most glorious weather of the gardening season coincides with the decline of most blooming plants. Asters, however, don't play along with the prank. Like garden mums, asters flower in response to the shortening days of fall, giving gardeners a beautiful display of buds that can bloom from August through October. Native to North America, asters comprise many species in several different genera of plants, as well as dozens of cultivars, but for gardeners, asters are simply great flowers that provide purple or blue daisy-like flowers late in the season.
Although home and garden centers often market asters as a seasonal purchase among displays of pumpkins and hay bales, asters are long-lived perennials that can become a permanent part of your landscape. Though aster flowers have that wildflower look, they are also beautiful in cut-flower arrangements. People aren't the only ones who find asters attractive—pollinators such as bees and butterflies also love aster flowers. If planted in the fall, they can be a rare source of late-season nectar, making them a crucial flower for pollinators.
Asters can be planted almost any time of the year, though spring is typical since that's when potted nursery plants are readily available. These fast-growing perennials will be ready to put on a good fall display in their first year, and once established, they will hold their own for many years.
Botanical Name Symphyotrichum
Common Names Asters, New England asters, frost flowers
Plant type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–6 ft. tall, 1–4 ft. wide (varies by type)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom time Summer, fall
Flower Color Purple, pink, blue, white
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Aster Care
While you can grow aster flowers from seeds planted in the springtime, it may take several years for them to mature into full-sized plants. More often, asters are planted from potted nursery specimens. They do best in loamy, well-draining soil, and desire a good amount of space around the plants to allow space for their roots to expand.
Every three years or so, the root clumps should be dug up and divided to keep the plants from getting too woody and dying out in the centers. The woody center can be discarded, with the outer portions replanted.
When frost finally kills off the foliage, clip off the stems at ground level. This can also be done in the spring to allow birds to feed on the flower seeds throughout winter—both finches and chickadees are especially fond of aster seeds.
Light
Plant our aster flowers in an area that boasts full sun for the majority of the day. Too much shade can cause lanky plants and fewer flowers, especially for the more common cultivars and hybrids. There are some native species varieties, however, that will do quite well in partially shady conditions.
Soil
Asters appreciate loamy soil that's slightly acidic, with a pH ranging from 5.8 to 6.5. If your soil is alkaline, you can correct it by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure, leaf mold, or compost.
Water
Keep new plantings moist and continue watering regularly until the flowers are finished blooming. As a rule of thumb, the soil your asters reside in should stay consistently moist but never saturated. One thing to note: Try to water the base of your asters without splashing water on the leaves—doing so can cause mildew or fungal growth. One inch of rain or watering once a week is usually recommended for most perennial plants.
Temperature and Humidity
Aster flowers thrive in cooler temperatures and are frost hardy, able to withstand near-freezing temperatures temporarily. When it comes to humidity, asters have no special preferences and therefore will not need increased humidity levels or extra spritzing.
Fertilizer
Asters are moderate feeders, and they appreciate being fed with a balanced flower fertilizer twice a month, beginning in spring and continuing until the blooms begin to open. Excessive nutrients can shorten the blooming time, so stop fertilizing asters in August.
Aster Varieties
The taxonomy of asters is somewhat complicated, as it now includes several genera of plants, all within the Asteraceae family. At one time, all the species were considered part of the Aster genus, but several species have now been reassigned to the Symphyotrichum genus. The flowers known as New England asters, for example, now belong to Symphyotrichum and are known as S. novae-angliae. And New York asters are now formally known as Symphyotrichum novi-belgii.
Finally, a number of species still belong to the original Aster genus, including hybrid crosses and their named cultivars. A. amellus and A. thomsonii are two frequent parents used in the hybrid cultivars commonly sold in the nursery trade.
Most gardeners do not need to worry too much about the taxonomical details, as all these plants are sold as asters and all have the familiar daisy-like flowers and perform the same way in the garden. The original species were wildflowers found in North America and Eurasia, but modern garden varieties are usually hybrids bred to produce new colors and tidier plants. Some of the more popular cultivars include:
'Celeste': These dark blue flowers bloom early and feature bright yellow centers.
'Hazy': Another early bloomer, the "hazy" aster boasts raspberry-pink flowers with yellow centers.
'Puff': The puff aster is hardier than many other white cultivars and will bloom among the earliest.
Propagating Asters
Asters can be propagated by collecting seeds or rooting stem cuttings, but by far the easiest way is by simply digging up the root clump and dividing it into pieces for replanting (the woody center portion of the clump should be discarded). The clumps will survive no matter when you perform the division, but if done in late fall or early the following spring, the plants will become established enough to put on a fall display in their first year.
Aster roots are tough, so you will need to use a sharp spade to cut the clumps into pieces. Water thoroughly immediately after replanting, and feed the divisions with bone meal to provide phosphorus for immediate root growth.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Rust and powdery mildew disease can affect aster foliage. Follow proper plant spacing recommendations to improve air circulation, and avoid splashing watering to prevent these problems.
Most insect pests leave asters alone, but lace bugs can be a bother. You're more likely to notice the damage they cause than the insects themselves, which are very small and a nondescript grayish-brown color. If you spot yellowing foliage and leaf drop in the summer, consider using insect soap on the plants, coating all sides of the foliage to impact the hiding pests. Fortunately, lace bug outbreaks precede aster blooming time, so spraying won't affect butterflies and bees.
Although home and garden centers often market asters as a seasonal purchase among displays of pumpkins and hay bales, asters are long-lived perennials that can become a permanent part of your landscape. Though aster flowers have that wildflower look, they are also beautiful in cut-flower arrangements. People aren't the only ones who find asters attractive—pollinators such as bees and butterflies also love aster flowers. If planted in the fall, they can be a rare source of late-season nectar, making them a crucial flower for pollinators.
Asters can be planted almost any time of the year, though spring is typical since that's when potted nursery plants are readily available. These fast-growing perennials will be ready to put on a good fall display in their first year, and once established, they will hold their own for many years.
Botanical Name Symphyotrichum
Common Names Asters, New England asters, frost flowers
Plant type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–6 ft. tall, 1–4 ft. wide (varies by type)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom time Summer, fall
Flower Color Purple, pink, blue, white
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Aster Care
While you can grow aster flowers from seeds planted in the springtime, it may take several years for them to mature into full-sized plants. More often, asters are planted from potted nursery specimens. They do best in loamy, well-draining soil, and desire a good amount of space around the plants to allow space for their roots to expand.
Every three years or so, the root clumps should be dug up and divided to keep the plants from getting too woody and dying out in the centers. The woody center can be discarded, with the outer portions replanted.
When frost finally kills off the foliage, clip off the stems at ground level. This can also be done in the spring to allow birds to feed on the flower seeds throughout winter—both finches and chickadees are especially fond of aster seeds.
Light
Plant our aster flowers in an area that boasts full sun for the majority of the day. Too much shade can cause lanky plants and fewer flowers, especially for the more common cultivars and hybrids. There are some native species varieties, however, that will do quite well in partially shady conditions.
Soil
Asters appreciate loamy soil that's slightly acidic, with a pH ranging from 5.8 to 6.5. If your soil is alkaline, you can correct it by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure, leaf mold, or compost.
Water
Keep new plantings moist and continue watering regularly until the flowers are finished blooming. As a rule of thumb, the soil your asters reside in should stay consistently moist but never saturated. One thing to note: Try to water the base of your asters without splashing water on the leaves—doing so can cause mildew or fungal growth. One inch of rain or watering once a week is usually recommended for most perennial plants.
Temperature and Humidity
Aster flowers thrive in cooler temperatures and are frost hardy, able to withstand near-freezing temperatures temporarily. When it comes to humidity, asters have no special preferences and therefore will not need increased humidity levels or extra spritzing.
Fertilizer
Asters are moderate feeders, and they appreciate being fed with a balanced flower fertilizer twice a month, beginning in spring and continuing until the blooms begin to open. Excessive nutrients can shorten the blooming time, so stop fertilizing asters in August.
Aster Varieties
The taxonomy of asters is somewhat complicated, as it now includes several genera of plants, all within the Asteraceae family. At one time, all the species were considered part of the Aster genus, but several species have now been reassigned to the Symphyotrichum genus. The flowers known as New England asters, for example, now belong to Symphyotrichum and are known as S. novae-angliae. And New York asters are now formally known as Symphyotrichum novi-belgii.
Finally, a number of species still belong to the original Aster genus, including hybrid crosses and their named cultivars. A. amellus and A. thomsonii are two frequent parents used in the hybrid cultivars commonly sold in the nursery trade.
Most gardeners do not need to worry too much about the taxonomical details, as all these plants are sold as asters and all have the familiar daisy-like flowers and perform the same way in the garden. The original species were wildflowers found in North America and Eurasia, but modern garden varieties are usually hybrids bred to produce new colors and tidier plants. Some of the more popular cultivars include:
'Celeste': These dark blue flowers bloom early and feature bright yellow centers.
'Hazy': Another early bloomer, the "hazy" aster boasts raspberry-pink flowers with yellow centers.
'Puff': The puff aster is hardier than many other white cultivars and will bloom among the earliest.
Propagating Asters
Asters can be propagated by collecting seeds or rooting stem cuttings, but by far the easiest way is by simply digging up the root clump and dividing it into pieces for replanting (the woody center portion of the clump should be discarded). The clumps will survive no matter when you perform the division, but if done in late fall or early the following spring, the plants will become established enough to put on a fall display in their first year.
Aster roots are tough, so you will need to use a sharp spade to cut the clumps into pieces. Water thoroughly immediately after replanting, and feed the divisions with bone meal to provide phosphorus for immediate root growth.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Rust and powdery mildew disease can affect aster foliage. Follow proper plant spacing recommendations to improve air circulation, and avoid splashing watering to prevent these problems.
Most insect pests leave asters alone, but lace bugs can be a bother. You're more likely to notice the damage they cause than the insects themselves, which are very small and a nondescript grayish-brown color. If you spot yellowing foliage and leaf drop in the summer, consider using insect soap on the plants, coating all sides of the foliage to impact the hiding pests. Fortunately, lace bug outbreaks precede aster blooming time, so spraying won't affect butterflies and bees.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月10日
Anthurium is a genus of around 1,000 species of perennial plants native to Central America, northern South America, and the Caribbean. While they can be grown outdoors in the garden in warm climates, anthurium is more often grown as houseplants by enthusiasts willing to put forth the effort for a plant that can be fussy. Some species are highly prized for their bright, exotic flowers, while others are grown mostly for their foliage.
The flowering varieties of these plants are distinctive for their multicolored spathes and red or yellow tail-like flower spikes. Other varieties feature large-leaved, deeply veined foliage. Many anthuriums are climbers and all need high humidity and warmth to thrive. They tend to thrive in greenhouses, and no type of anthurium is particularly well-suited for indoor, domestic living without a lot of attention and care.
Botanical Name Anthurnium spp.
Common Names Anthurium, tailflower, flamingo flower, laceleaf
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light
Soil Type Coarse, moist potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Flowers freely
Bloom Color Red, pink, or white, with contrasting spadex
Hardiness Zones 11 to 12
Native Area Central America, northern South America, Caribbean.
Anthurium Plant Care
Anthurium plants thrive in bright, indirect light. They do not like exposure to direct sunlight, except in the winter months or in plants that have been carefully acclimated. Wild anthuriums generally live in temperatures at or above 60 degrees Fahrenheit and the foliage types prefer temperatures even warmer. If temperatures dip below this level, the plant will suffer.
Potted anthuriums prefer a rich but well-draining potting mix that should be kept moist but not wet. A potting mix tailored for orchids, with a few handfuls of sand and a few handfuls of peat moss mixed in, is ideal.
In natural settings, many anthurium plants are "epiphytic"—they grow on other plants instead of in soil. If your plant fails to support itself, give it a stake or small trellis to climb on.
Repotting should be done whenever the plant fills up its pot with roots.This can occur every year or two, when you see "air roots" begin to extend up above the soil level. This is a sign that the plant can be repotted, which is also a good time to propagate new plants.
Light
Indoors or out, anthuriums grow best in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can burn the leaves.
Soil
Anthuriums prefer a coarse, well-draining potting. An orchid mix with additional sand and peat moss mixed in, makes a perfect potting mix for anthuriums.
Water
The soil should be kept slightly moist and never allowed to dry out completely. Setting the pot in a tray of water-filled gravel will help the plant drain and also help keep humidity levels high. Allow the top of the soil to dry out to the touch before watering again.
Temperature and Humidity
All species of anthurium are native tropical plants and mimicking those conditions will give you the best chances for success. This plant prefers high humidity and temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants can be grown outside only in zones 11 to 12, and will likely perish at temperatures 40 degrees or less.
In dry climates—or during dry winter months—mist the plant daily to keep humidity levels high. You may find it necessary to run a humidifier constantly during dry months.
Fertilizer
It is safe and recommended to use liquid fertilizer throughout the growing period. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus, and dilute it to half strength to feed the plants every two weeks or so.
Propagating Anthuriums
An easy way to create new anthuriums is by cutting off the "air roots" that grow up above the soil level in the pot, dipping these root pieces in rooting hormone, and burying them in a new pot with fresh potting mix. Roots will start to send up stems and leaves within four to six weeks.
Anthuriums can also be propagated from cuttings. Select a stem at least 6 inches long with two or three sets of leaves. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone, then bury it in potting mix up to the first set of leaves. Water the cutting thoroughly when you plant it, then whenever the soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting each week to provide humidity. The cutting should develop roots within four to six weeks, and new growth shoots will soon follow.
Potting and Repotting
When an anthurium fills up its pot with roots and begins to send up plentiful air roots, it is time to repot. Normally, this is necessary every two years or so. Transfer the plant to a pot that only slightly larger than the old one—no more than 2 inches larger. Fill the pot only about 1/3 full of potting mix, then set the plant onto the soil and lightly pack additional soil around the base, up to the level the plant was buried in its old pot.
As new air roots form above the soil over the following weeks, lightly pack additional potting mix around the exposed roots.
Varieties of Anthurium
Common varieties sold as house plants include:
A. andreanum: These feature heart-shaped leaves that grow up to 1 foot, with flowers available in red, white, pink, and variegated colors. They are distinguished by a straight flower spike.
A. scherzerianum: The most forgiving of anthuriums, it features a curling orange flower spike and the leaves are arrow-shaped.
Anthuriums are collector's plants, and many of the most magnificent varieties are rarely found outside of greenhouses and botanical gardens. Other, less common species to consider include:
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
Common Pests/ Diseases
These plants are subject to some of the same pests that commonly affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, whitefly, and scale. Horticultural oils and soaps can be used to treat these.
If dry or drafty locations, the foliage on anthuriums may scorch. In rare cases, fungal rots, blights, or leaf spots may occur.
The flowering varieties of these plants are distinctive for their multicolored spathes and red or yellow tail-like flower spikes. Other varieties feature large-leaved, deeply veined foliage. Many anthuriums are climbers and all need high humidity and warmth to thrive. They tend to thrive in greenhouses, and no type of anthurium is particularly well-suited for indoor, domestic living without a lot of attention and care.
Botanical Name Anthurnium spp.
Common Names Anthurium, tailflower, flamingo flower, laceleaf
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light
Soil Type Coarse, moist potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Flowers freely
Bloom Color Red, pink, or white, with contrasting spadex
Hardiness Zones 11 to 12
Native Area Central America, northern South America, Caribbean.
Anthurium Plant Care
Anthurium plants thrive in bright, indirect light. They do not like exposure to direct sunlight, except in the winter months or in plants that have been carefully acclimated. Wild anthuriums generally live in temperatures at or above 60 degrees Fahrenheit and the foliage types prefer temperatures even warmer. If temperatures dip below this level, the plant will suffer.
Potted anthuriums prefer a rich but well-draining potting mix that should be kept moist but not wet. A potting mix tailored for orchids, with a few handfuls of sand and a few handfuls of peat moss mixed in, is ideal.
In natural settings, many anthurium plants are "epiphytic"—they grow on other plants instead of in soil. If your plant fails to support itself, give it a stake or small trellis to climb on.
Repotting should be done whenever the plant fills up its pot with roots.This can occur every year or two, when you see "air roots" begin to extend up above the soil level. This is a sign that the plant can be repotted, which is also a good time to propagate new plants.
Light
Indoors or out, anthuriums grow best in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can burn the leaves.
Soil
Anthuriums prefer a coarse, well-draining potting. An orchid mix with additional sand and peat moss mixed in, makes a perfect potting mix for anthuriums.
Water
The soil should be kept slightly moist and never allowed to dry out completely. Setting the pot in a tray of water-filled gravel will help the plant drain and also help keep humidity levels high. Allow the top of the soil to dry out to the touch before watering again.
Temperature and Humidity
All species of anthurium are native tropical plants and mimicking those conditions will give you the best chances for success. This plant prefers high humidity and temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants can be grown outside only in zones 11 to 12, and will likely perish at temperatures 40 degrees or less.
In dry climates—or during dry winter months—mist the plant daily to keep humidity levels high. You may find it necessary to run a humidifier constantly during dry months.
Fertilizer
It is safe and recommended to use liquid fertilizer throughout the growing period. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus, and dilute it to half strength to feed the plants every two weeks or so.
Propagating Anthuriums
An easy way to create new anthuriums is by cutting off the "air roots" that grow up above the soil level in the pot, dipping these root pieces in rooting hormone, and burying them in a new pot with fresh potting mix. Roots will start to send up stems and leaves within four to six weeks.
Anthuriums can also be propagated from cuttings. Select a stem at least 6 inches long with two or three sets of leaves. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone, then bury it in potting mix up to the first set of leaves. Water the cutting thoroughly when you plant it, then whenever the soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting each week to provide humidity. The cutting should develop roots within four to six weeks, and new growth shoots will soon follow.
Potting and Repotting
When an anthurium fills up its pot with roots and begins to send up plentiful air roots, it is time to repot. Normally, this is necessary every two years or so. Transfer the plant to a pot that only slightly larger than the old one—no more than 2 inches larger. Fill the pot only about 1/3 full of potting mix, then set the plant onto the soil and lightly pack additional soil around the base, up to the level the plant was buried in its old pot.
As new air roots form above the soil over the following weeks, lightly pack additional potting mix around the exposed roots.
Varieties of Anthurium
Common varieties sold as house plants include:
A. andreanum: These feature heart-shaped leaves that grow up to 1 foot, with flowers available in red, white, pink, and variegated colors. They are distinguished by a straight flower spike.
A. scherzerianum: The most forgiving of anthuriums, it features a curling orange flower spike and the leaves are arrow-shaped.
Anthuriums are collector's plants, and many of the most magnificent varieties are rarely found outside of greenhouses and botanical gardens. Other, less common species to consider include:
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
Common Pests/ Diseases
These plants are subject to some of the same pests that commonly affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, whitefly, and scale. Horticultural oils and soaps can be used to treat these.
If dry or drafty locations, the foliage on anthuriums may scorch. In rare cases, fungal rots, blights, or leaf spots may occur.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月01日
The common name "anemone" is a collective label used for a number of different species in the Anemone genus of plants. Many gardeners know the plants as windflowers, so named because the delicate poppy-like flowers sway in the lightest breezes. (The Greek word "anemos" translates as "wind.") Gardeners who love the look of the exotic Himalayan blue poppy but are unsuccessful in growing it should try the much more forgiving anemone flower.
The flowers of these spring- or fall-blooming plants are a hot trend in wedding bouquets, and also make the garden come alive in vibrant red, white, pink, yellow, and purple shades. Anemone flowers have a simple, daisy-like shape and lobed foliage. Some anemone varieties feature double flowers, similar to a frilly, oversized mum.
The Ranunculaceae family in which the anemone genus fits is a generous contributor to flower gardens. In addition to the Anemone, other members of the family include delphinium, clematis, and ranunculus.
Botanical Name Anemone spp.
Common Names Anemone, windflower, Grecian windflower, poppy windflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 inches to 4 feet (depends on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, moist soil
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral); varies by species
Bloom Time Spring, fall
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow-green, blue, purple, red-purple, white, ivory, and pink
Hardiness Zones 5 to 10 (USDA); varies by species
Native Area Temperate zones worldwide; many species are native to North America
Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets
How to Grow Anemones
Choose your planting time based on the blooming cycle of your chosen species. Plant spring bloomers in the fall, and fall bloomers in the spring. Different species of anemones have different types of root structures, and the planting method varies a bit from type to type. Normally, anemones are planted from bare rootstocks purchased from online or mail-order retailers.
Some species, such as A. coronaria (often known as poppy anemone) have roots that resemble bulb-like corms. The small corms are planted in groups, like tulips or daffodils. Place them in clusters spaces about 1 inch apart, 2 inches deep. Let nature dictate the spreading of the cluster. With corm-types, leave the foliage in place to replenish the corms until it turns brown
Other species, including A. blanda (sometimes known as Grecian windflower) have tuberous or rhizomatous roots that are planted like dahlia or tuberous iris roots, in small groups 3 to 6 inches deep. It helps to soak the dried tubers in water overnight to soften them before planting.
Whatever the species of Anemone, these plants generally like at least four hours of sun each day and well-drained soil that is relatively moist. Once planted, they are relatively care-free plants. Those types with rhizomatous roots will need to be lifted and divided every three years or so. When foliage turns brown in late fall, cut it away to ground level.
Light
Anemones should be placed where they can receive at least half a day of sunlight. Some varieties thrive more in partial shade.
Soil
Plant anemones in well-drained soil. Before planting, you can improve the soil by adding compost, leaf mold, or other organic matter. Anemones aren't fussy about soil pH, but will thrive best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Water the plants regularly when it does not rain. Try to keep the soil lightly moist. Water slowly, allowing the soil to absorb as much water as possible. Some varieties have special water needs; for example, wood anemone (A. nemorosa) dies to the ground in midsummer and does not need water until it regrows in fall.
Temperature and Humidity
The recommended temperatures for growing anemones is 58 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 42 to 50 degrees at night. For some species, the optimum temperature for efficient flower initiation may be lower than 54 degrees.
Fertilizer
If desired, you can add some bone meal to the soil in the fall for spring bloomers or in the spring for fall bloomers to give the bulbs a nutrient boost.
Pruning
The fading foliage of spring bloomers is usually insignificant enough to wither away unnoticed, so you will not need to prune it for a tidy looking garden. Taller fall-blooming varieties may look shabby after the first frost, so shear off dead growth during early winter clean up.
Propagating Anemones
Though the different species of anemones have different root structures, all can be propagated by digging up the corms/ tubers, dividing them into pieces, then replanting. A common practice is to routinely dig up and divide the roots in the fall, then store them over winter for spring replanting. Make sure to inspect the roots and discard any that are diseased or soft with rot. Lifting the roots in fall for winter storage can be a good idea if your garden experiences wet soil over the winter.
Unlike many bulbs that have a distinct shape that indicates how you should orient them in the planting hole, anemones corms/tubers are lumpy and irregular. They will grow properly no matter how you orient them in the ground. If you have stored the roots over winter, it's a good idea to soak them overnight before planting.
Be generous when you plant the petite spring anemones; these low-growing plants that range from 3 to 15 inches in height look best when planted in groups of 50 or more.
Varieties of Anemone
There are several good species of Anemone available, each with several named cultivars to choose from:
Anemone blanda adapts well outdoors and is hardy in zones 5 through 9. This plant is sometimes known as Grecian windflower.
Anemone coronaria, has poppy-like blooms with black centers. These are popular in floral arrangements. This species, sometimes known as poppy anemone, is reliably hardy only in zones 8 through 10.
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica, the Japanese anemone, blooms abundantly from mid-summer to late fall, giving gardeners a shade-loving alternative to the sun-drenched mums and asters of autumn. It is grown in zones 4 to 8.
Anemone sylvestris (sometimes known as snowdrop windflower) is an early spring bloomer that does not have time to attain great heights; it belongs at the front of the border. You can grow it in zones 4 to 8.
Landscape Uses
Plant several dozen spring-blooming anemones around your tulips and daffodils, or plant large drifts of anemones in wooded areas, where they can naturalize undisturbed. Place your spring-blooming anemones near the front of your borders or at the edges of paths, and do not worry about browsing deer, which generally find this flower unpalatable. Fall-blooming anemones are good for filling in gaps between mounding chrysanthemum plants.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Although there are no truly serious pest or disease problems with Anemones, they can be stricken with foliar nematodes that feed inside the leaves. These microscopic soil worms can cause distorted leaves and flowers through damage to the plant cells. Treatment is difficult, but removing plants and heating the soil through solarization sometimes gets rid of nematodes. All plant material in the afflicted area will need to be removed and disposed of. Periodically churning up the soil and allowing it to bake in the sun may rid the area of nematodes.
A variety of fungal leaf spots, down mildew, and powdery mildew may appear on Anemones, though the diseases are rarely serious.
Taller Anemones may need to be staked to prevent them from flopping, especially when grown in shady areas.
The flowers of these spring- or fall-blooming plants are a hot trend in wedding bouquets, and also make the garden come alive in vibrant red, white, pink, yellow, and purple shades. Anemone flowers have a simple, daisy-like shape and lobed foliage. Some anemone varieties feature double flowers, similar to a frilly, oversized mum.
The Ranunculaceae family in which the anemone genus fits is a generous contributor to flower gardens. In addition to the Anemone, other members of the family include delphinium, clematis, and ranunculus.
Botanical Name Anemone spp.
Common Names Anemone, windflower, Grecian windflower, poppy windflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 inches to 4 feet (depends on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, moist soil
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral); varies by species
Bloom Time Spring, fall
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow-green, blue, purple, red-purple, white, ivory, and pink
Hardiness Zones 5 to 10 (USDA); varies by species
Native Area Temperate zones worldwide; many species are native to North America
Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets
How to Grow Anemones
Choose your planting time based on the blooming cycle of your chosen species. Plant spring bloomers in the fall, and fall bloomers in the spring. Different species of anemones have different types of root structures, and the planting method varies a bit from type to type. Normally, anemones are planted from bare rootstocks purchased from online or mail-order retailers.
Some species, such as A. coronaria (often known as poppy anemone) have roots that resemble bulb-like corms. The small corms are planted in groups, like tulips or daffodils. Place them in clusters spaces about 1 inch apart, 2 inches deep. Let nature dictate the spreading of the cluster. With corm-types, leave the foliage in place to replenish the corms until it turns brown
Other species, including A. blanda (sometimes known as Grecian windflower) have tuberous or rhizomatous roots that are planted like dahlia or tuberous iris roots, in small groups 3 to 6 inches deep. It helps to soak the dried tubers in water overnight to soften them before planting.
Whatever the species of Anemone, these plants generally like at least four hours of sun each day and well-drained soil that is relatively moist. Once planted, they are relatively care-free plants. Those types with rhizomatous roots will need to be lifted and divided every three years or so. When foliage turns brown in late fall, cut it away to ground level.
Light
Anemones should be placed where they can receive at least half a day of sunlight. Some varieties thrive more in partial shade.
Soil
Plant anemones in well-drained soil. Before planting, you can improve the soil by adding compost, leaf mold, or other organic matter. Anemones aren't fussy about soil pH, but will thrive best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Water the plants regularly when it does not rain. Try to keep the soil lightly moist. Water slowly, allowing the soil to absorb as much water as possible. Some varieties have special water needs; for example, wood anemone (A. nemorosa) dies to the ground in midsummer and does not need water until it regrows in fall.
Temperature and Humidity
The recommended temperatures for growing anemones is 58 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 42 to 50 degrees at night. For some species, the optimum temperature for efficient flower initiation may be lower than 54 degrees.
Fertilizer
If desired, you can add some bone meal to the soil in the fall for spring bloomers or in the spring for fall bloomers to give the bulbs a nutrient boost.
Pruning
The fading foliage of spring bloomers is usually insignificant enough to wither away unnoticed, so you will not need to prune it for a tidy looking garden. Taller fall-blooming varieties may look shabby after the first frost, so shear off dead growth during early winter clean up.
Propagating Anemones
Though the different species of anemones have different root structures, all can be propagated by digging up the corms/ tubers, dividing them into pieces, then replanting. A common practice is to routinely dig up and divide the roots in the fall, then store them over winter for spring replanting. Make sure to inspect the roots and discard any that are diseased or soft with rot. Lifting the roots in fall for winter storage can be a good idea if your garden experiences wet soil over the winter.
Unlike many bulbs that have a distinct shape that indicates how you should orient them in the planting hole, anemones corms/tubers are lumpy and irregular. They will grow properly no matter how you orient them in the ground. If you have stored the roots over winter, it's a good idea to soak them overnight before planting.
Be generous when you plant the petite spring anemones; these low-growing plants that range from 3 to 15 inches in height look best when planted in groups of 50 or more.
Varieties of Anemone
There are several good species of Anemone available, each with several named cultivars to choose from:
Anemone blanda adapts well outdoors and is hardy in zones 5 through 9. This plant is sometimes known as Grecian windflower.
Anemone coronaria, has poppy-like blooms with black centers. These are popular in floral arrangements. This species, sometimes known as poppy anemone, is reliably hardy only in zones 8 through 10.
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica, the Japanese anemone, blooms abundantly from mid-summer to late fall, giving gardeners a shade-loving alternative to the sun-drenched mums and asters of autumn. It is grown in zones 4 to 8.
Anemone sylvestris (sometimes known as snowdrop windflower) is an early spring bloomer that does not have time to attain great heights; it belongs at the front of the border. You can grow it in zones 4 to 8.
Landscape Uses
Plant several dozen spring-blooming anemones around your tulips and daffodils, or plant large drifts of anemones in wooded areas, where they can naturalize undisturbed. Place your spring-blooming anemones near the front of your borders or at the edges of paths, and do not worry about browsing deer, which generally find this flower unpalatable. Fall-blooming anemones are good for filling in gaps between mounding chrysanthemum plants.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Although there are no truly serious pest or disease problems with Anemones, they can be stricken with foliar nematodes that feed inside the leaves. These microscopic soil worms can cause distorted leaves and flowers through damage to the plant cells. Treatment is difficult, but removing plants and heating the soil through solarization sometimes gets rid of nematodes. All plant material in the afflicted area will need to be removed and disposed of. Periodically churning up the soil and allowing it to bake in the sun may rid the area of nematodes.
A variety of fungal leaf spots, down mildew, and powdery mildew may appear on Anemones, though the diseases are rarely serious.
Taller Anemones may need to be staked to prevent them from flopping, especially when grown in shady areas.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月23日
The giant amaryllis flowers commonly grown as winter-blooming houseplants are generally carefully bred hybrids derived from various species in the Hippeastrum genus, a group of tropical plants from Central and South America. These plants have strappy leaves and huge flowers shaped like trumpet lilies. The blooms are typically are a deep red, pink, white, or blend of these colors. You can expect your amaryllis to bloom for seven weeks or longer.
There is also a true amaryllis genus containing just two species native to South Africa. These are not, however, the plants cultivated in the U.S. as amaryllis.
Controlling Bloom Time
If grown in a frost-free garden (zones 8 to 10), amaryllis will naturally bloom in March, April, and May, with fall rebloom possible. But amaryllis bulbs are often purchased to grow as potted plants for holiday bloom, which is only possible if you plant the dormant bulbs at precisely the right time—about 10 to 12 weeks before desired bloom time. When you buy commercial bulbs from a grower for Christmas bloom, these are dormant bulbs that should be kept cool until the right planting time.
If you already have potted amaryllis plants, future blooms can be controlled by setting the plant outdoors to grow through the summer, then bringing it indoors and forcing them into a short period of dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer for several weeks, then restarting the bulbs.
Botanical Name Hippeastrum (Group)
Common Name Amaryllis
Plant Type Perennial bulb
Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall; 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil (outdoors); rich potting mix (indoors)
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Red, pink, white with spots and bands
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 (USDA)
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Amaryllis Care
The techniques for growing amaryllis vary, depending on whether you're growing it indoors or outdoors, and when you want it to bloom.
As a New Indoor Plant for Seasonal Blooms
Partially fill a 5- to 7-inch pot with a good-quality, well-draining potting mix, then plant the amaryllis bulb so the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting mix. The bulbs should be planted 10 to 12 weeks before you want them to bloom.
Place a bamboo stalk alongside the bulb. The flowers can get top-heavy, and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging the bulb and roots later.
Water well, then place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet. A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight.
Forcing an Existing Plant Into Holiday Bloom
To force a potted amaryllis to bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade. Keep the watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding in August. When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot, and stop watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, count backward about 10 to 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering.
The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over.
Allowing Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally
To allow your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out. Keep the plant watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding the plant in August. Bring it indoors before a frost hits it and place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flower stalks should appear in a month or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms.
When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers.
As a Garden Plant
In zones 8 to 10, amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the garden. If your area is entirely frost-free, plant the bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. In areas where frost is possible, set the bulbs with 5 to 6 inches of soil above them, followed by 5 to 6 inches of mulch. Water thoroughly after planting, but then water only when the top 2 inches of soil is dry.
After leaves appear, feed with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis generally bloom in March, April, and May. When flowering is complete, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage to continue growing. If any leaves turn yellow, cut them off.
From June to September, water the plants only during dry periods. In fall, apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The plants typically go dormant over winter.
Light
Amaryllis will grow in full sun to part shade conditions. Outdoors, bright shade is the best environment. Grown as potted plants indoors, they prefer morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon.
Soil
Outdoors, grow amaryllis bulbs in well-drained, fertile soil. When growing potted bulbs, use a good-quality, well-draining sandy loam potting mix.
Water
During the growing/ flowering period, water your amaryllis whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. Amaryllis requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing amaryllis into seasonal bloom requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule (see above).
Temperature and Humidity
Amaryllis are tropical plants that prefer warm temperatures. Outdoors, they are hardy to zone 8, and zone 7 gardeners can sometimes overwinter them in the garden if the ground is heavily mulched.
Fertilizer
During the growth period, feed your amaryllis with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. After flowering, withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the bulbs.
Varieties of Amaryllis
There are dozens of different amaryllis varieties, and the choice really depends on what flower color most appeals to you. Some recommended choices include:
'Samba': This variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings.
'Apple Blossom': This popular variety has blooms that mix pink and white, with green throats.
'Faro': This plant has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. The blooms are smaller and more delicate than with most varieties.
'Summertime': This plant has large 7-inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with greenish centers.
'Matterhorn': This is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats are yellow-green.
Pruning
When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can move the amaryllis outdoors for the summer, placing it in a part-shade location.
Propagating Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot them up to produce more plants. Give them a few seasons of growth before expecting flowers.
Common Pests and Diseases
Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealybugs, which can be treated with horticultural oil. Outdoor plants may be feasted upon by slugs and snails.
If your amaryllis doesn't bloom, it is often because it received no rest period after the last bloom, or because it is not receiving adequate light.
There is also a true amaryllis genus containing just two species native to South Africa. These are not, however, the plants cultivated in the U.S. as amaryllis.
Controlling Bloom Time
If grown in a frost-free garden (zones 8 to 10), amaryllis will naturally bloom in March, April, and May, with fall rebloom possible. But amaryllis bulbs are often purchased to grow as potted plants for holiday bloom, which is only possible if you plant the dormant bulbs at precisely the right time—about 10 to 12 weeks before desired bloom time. When you buy commercial bulbs from a grower for Christmas bloom, these are dormant bulbs that should be kept cool until the right planting time.
If you already have potted amaryllis plants, future blooms can be controlled by setting the plant outdoors to grow through the summer, then bringing it indoors and forcing them into a short period of dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer for several weeks, then restarting the bulbs.
Botanical Name Hippeastrum (Group)
Common Name Amaryllis
Plant Type Perennial bulb
Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall; 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil (outdoors); rich potting mix (indoors)
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Red, pink, white with spots and bands
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 (USDA)
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Amaryllis Care
The techniques for growing amaryllis vary, depending on whether you're growing it indoors or outdoors, and when you want it to bloom.
As a New Indoor Plant for Seasonal Blooms
Partially fill a 5- to 7-inch pot with a good-quality, well-draining potting mix, then plant the amaryllis bulb so the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting mix. The bulbs should be planted 10 to 12 weeks before you want them to bloom.
Place a bamboo stalk alongside the bulb. The flowers can get top-heavy, and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging the bulb and roots later.
Water well, then place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet. A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight.
Forcing an Existing Plant Into Holiday Bloom
To force a potted amaryllis to bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade. Keep the watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding in August. When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot, and stop watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, count backward about 10 to 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering.
The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over.
Allowing Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally
To allow your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out. Keep the plant watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding the plant in August. Bring it indoors before a frost hits it and place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flower stalks should appear in a month or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms.
When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers.
As a Garden Plant
In zones 8 to 10, amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the garden. If your area is entirely frost-free, plant the bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. In areas where frost is possible, set the bulbs with 5 to 6 inches of soil above them, followed by 5 to 6 inches of mulch. Water thoroughly after planting, but then water only when the top 2 inches of soil is dry.
After leaves appear, feed with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis generally bloom in March, April, and May. When flowering is complete, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage to continue growing. If any leaves turn yellow, cut them off.
From June to September, water the plants only during dry periods. In fall, apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The plants typically go dormant over winter.
Light
Amaryllis will grow in full sun to part shade conditions. Outdoors, bright shade is the best environment. Grown as potted plants indoors, they prefer morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon.
Soil
Outdoors, grow amaryllis bulbs in well-drained, fertile soil. When growing potted bulbs, use a good-quality, well-draining sandy loam potting mix.
Water
During the growing/ flowering period, water your amaryllis whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. Amaryllis requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing amaryllis into seasonal bloom requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule (see above).
Temperature and Humidity
Amaryllis are tropical plants that prefer warm temperatures. Outdoors, they are hardy to zone 8, and zone 7 gardeners can sometimes overwinter them in the garden if the ground is heavily mulched.
Fertilizer
During the growth period, feed your amaryllis with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. After flowering, withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the bulbs.
Varieties of Amaryllis
There are dozens of different amaryllis varieties, and the choice really depends on what flower color most appeals to you. Some recommended choices include:
'Samba': This variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings.
'Apple Blossom': This popular variety has blooms that mix pink and white, with green throats.
'Faro': This plant has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. The blooms are smaller and more delicate than with most varieties.
'Summertime': This plant has large 7-inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with greenish centers.
'Matterhorn': This is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats are yellow-green.
Pruning
When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can move the amaryllis outdoors for the summer, placing it in a part-shade location.
Propagating Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot them up to produce more plants. Give them a few seasons of growth before expecting flowers.
Common Pests and Diseases
Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealybugs, which can be treated with horticultural oil. Outdoor plants may be feasted upon by slugs and snails.
If your amaryllis doesn't bloom, it is often because it received no rest period after the last bloom, or because it is not receiving adequate light.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月21日
The Amaranthus genus is a complicated one, featuring at least 75 annual and perennial species that easily cross-breed and hybridize. Today, most gardeners are familiar with the species as ornamental plants, and many don't even realize that amaranths are also edible plants that can be grown for their grain-like seeds and edible leaves. In fact, this was once the primary reason amaranth served as a staple in home cottage gardens. Historically, the use of amaranth as an ornamental plant is a relatively recent development.
Edible amaranth is often grown for the plentiful tiny seeds that hang in tassels from the top of the plant after the attractive red flowers fade. The bulk seed is used as a "grain" in porridges or added as a thickener to soups and stews. The seeds are extremely nutritious and protein-packed, with a slightly nutty flavor. You can also use the leaves of amaranth as a leafy vegetable; the taste is similar to spinach and it can be used in the same way as many other leafy vegetables, especially in mixed-green salads.
If consumption is the goal, choose annual amaranth varieties marketed as edibles. Nearly all amaranths are edible, including love-lies-bleeding and even the common road-side weedy forms. But those sold as edible varieties are selected for their good seed production and especially tasty leaves.
Amaranth is native to North America and Central America, and is usually planted from seed as soon as the last frost has passed in the spring. If you are eager for early harvest, you can start the seeds indoors as much as eight weeks earlier. If you want to harvest the plants for seeds, it will take about 12 weeks for the plants to reach full maturity. Leaves can be harvested within a few weeks of outdoor planting.
Botanical Name Amaranthus
Common Names Amaranth, amaranthus, pigweed
Plant Type Herbaceous annual
Mature Size 2–5 ft. tall, 1-2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer, fall, early winter
Flower Color Red, burgundy, pink, orange, green
Hardiness Zones 2-11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Non-toxic
Amaranth Care
Amaranth grows well in any average well-drained soil, and you should make sure the site you choose has good drainage and air circulation. To ensure continued production, it's a good idea to stagger planting every two to three weeks, beginning a week or two after the last frost date in your region.
While amaranth plants are tall, they aren’t necessarily wide or bushy, so you can get away with planting them 10 to 18 inches apart. The closer you can get them, the better they look once fully grown. At the same time, they need enough space to provide good air circulation.
Light
Amaranth does best in full sun in the northern part of its range, but in warm southern climates, it can benefit from some shade in the afternoon. Generally, aim to give your plant at least six hours of sunlight a day.
Soil
Amaranth grows well in average soils and will even grow adequately in poor soils. Only dense clay mixtures are likely to be completely unsuitable for amaranth, though very rich soils may hinder flowering and seed production.
Water
Amaranth plants have average needs for water, requiring no more than 1 inch per week. Take care not to overwater your plant, or you run the risk of root rot or fungal diseases.
Temperature and Humidity
Unlike other leafy green vegetables, amaranth is fairly happy in the heat. Many species are native to the southern U.S. and Mexico, so you can expect them to thrive even when the temperatures are unusually warm.
Fertilizer
Amaranth doesn't require any additional feeding. In fact, excessive nitrogen (often found in fertilizers) can cause the plants to become leggy and less suitable for harvesting.
Amaranth Varieties
Varieties of amaranth can range from giants topping 8 feet tall, to smaller 1- to 2-foot plants better suited for leaf harvest only. You should cultivate larger plants specifically grown for their seeds if you want the amaranth grain. Some popular varieties include:
Red-leaf amaranth (Amaranthus tricolor): This varietal has especially nutritious foliage that tastes like slightly tangy spinach. 'Molten Fire' and 'Joseph's Coat' are popular cultivars of this species.
‘Burgundy’ (A. hypochondriacus): Stunning purple leaves, red flowers, and white seeds adorn this varietal.
‘Hopi Red Dye’ (A. cruentus): An heirloom species, it produces excellent protein-rich black seeds.
Propagating Amaranth
Thanks to their plentiful seeds, amaranth plants will readily self-seed in the garden. As they sprout in spring, the volunteers can be thinned out to about 10 to 18 inches apart, or carefully dug up and transplanted elsewhere. It's also possible to collect some of the seeds in the fall and replant them the following spring. Be aware, though, that if the original plants were hybrids, the volunteer seedlings may not "come true" and can look different than the parent plant.
How to Grow Amaranth From Seed
When planting amaranth outdoors, sow seeds about 4 inches apart, barely covering them with soil. Germination generally takes seven to 14 days. As they sprout, thin the plants out to a spacing of 10 to 18 inches.
If starting seeds indoors, you can use a general seed-starting mix and make sure to harden off the seedlings before transplanting them outdoors. The average outdoor temperature needs to reach about 55 degrees Fahrenheit before you can successfully plant the seedlings outdoors.
Harvesting Amaranth
You can harvest both the leaves and grains from any amaranth, but if your goal is an edible plant, choose a variety specialized for that. Some types of amaranth are marketed as best for seed production, while others are bred for their attractive, tasty leaves. Regardless of your cultivar, amaranth leaves can be harvested at any point. Small leaves are more tender, but the larger leaves boast a fuller flavor. Large size and heat won’t turn amaranth leaves bitter, as often occurs with other leafy greens, so you can harvest at any point throughout the season.
When harvesting the plant's leaves, make sure to leave the crown intact, as well as some leaves around the top, so the plant can continue to grow. Alternately, you can also cut the whole plant off at ground level when it is between 1 and 2 feet tall. It’s possible that it will resprout for another harvest, though you do risk introducing pests to the open stem.
To harvest amaranth grains, let the plant go all the way to flower. Keep an eye on the flowers as they bloom and begin to die back. Before they all turn brown, cut the flowers off and place them in bags, where they will dry. Shake the bag once they are dry, or knock the seeds loose over a cloth. Rinse away the dried seed “chaff” and enjoy your grain harvest. Amaranth is especially good in a porridge that also contains other grains, like millet and quinoa.
Common Pests/Diseases
Amaranth can fall prey to many of the same pests and diseases that affect other vegetables. Aphids and flea beetles are common; insecticidal soaps are a good remedy for the former, and floating row covers will protect the plants from the latter. Avoid using commercial pesticides with a "wait to pick" or any other type of warning regarding consumption. Many of these types of pesticides are broad-spectrum, designed to eliminate multiple insects, and may contain ingredients that aren't meant to be ingested by humans.
Root rot can also be a problem in wet, dense soil or in periods where rainfalls are frequent and copious. Once root rot occurs, the plant must be removed. Your best defense against the issue is maintaining well-draining soil and not overwatering the plant.
Edible amaranth is often grown for the plentiful tiny seeds that hang in tassels from the top of the plant after the attractive red flowers fade. The bulk seed is used as a "grain" in porridges or added as a thickener to soups and stews. The seeds are extremely nutritious and protein-packed, with a slightly nutty flavor. You can also use the leaves of amaranth as a leafy vegetable; the taste is similar to spinach and it can be used in the same way as many other leafy vegetables, especially in mixed-green salads.
If consumption is the goal, choose annual amaranth varieties marketed as edibles. Nearly all amaranths are edible, including love-lies-bleeding and even the common road-side weedy forms. But those sold as edible varieties are selected for their good seed production and especially tasty leaves.
Amaranth is native to North America and Central America, and is usually planted from seed as soon as the last frost has passed in the spring. If you are eager for early harvest, you can start the seeds indoors as much as eight weeks earlier. If you want to harvest the plants for seeds, it will take about 12 weeks for the plants to reach full maturity. Leaves can be harvested within a few weeks of outdoor planting.
Botanical Name Amaranthus
Common Names Amaranth, amaranthus, pigweed
Plant Type Herbaceous annual
Mature Size 2–5 ft. tall, 1-2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer, fall, early winter
Flower Color Red, burgundy, pink, orange, green
Hardiness Zones 2-11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Non-toxic
Amaranth Care
Amaranth grows well in any average well-drained soil, and you should make sure the site you choose has good drainage and air circulation. To ensure continued production, it's a good idea to stagger planting every two to three weeks, beginning a week or two after the last frost date in your region.
While amaranth plants are tall, they aren’t necessarily wide or bushy, so you can get away with planting them 10 to 18 inches apart. The closer you can get them, the better they look once fully grown. At the same time, they need enough space to provide good air circulation.
Light
Amaranth does best in full sun in the northern part of its range, but in warm southern climates, it can benefit from some shade in the afternoon. Generally, aim to give your plant at least six hours of sunlight a day.
Soil
Amaranth grows well in average soils and will even grow adequately in poor soils. Only dense clay mixtures are likely to be completely unsuitable for amaranth, though very rich soils may hinder flowering and seed production.
Water
Amaranth plants have average needs for water, requiring no more than 1 inch per week. Take care not to overwater your plant, or you run the risk of root rot or fungal diseases.
Temperature and Humidity
Unlike other leafy green vegetables, amaranth is fairly happy in the heat. Many species are native to the southern U.S. and Mexico, so you can expect them to thrive even when the temperatures are unusually warm.
Fertilizer
Amaranth doesn't require any additional feeding. In fact, excessive nitrogen (often found in fertilizers) can cause the plants to become leggy and less suitable for harvesting.
Amaranth Varieties
Varieties of amaranth can range from giants topping 8 feet tall, to smaller 1- to 2-foot plants better suited for leaf harvest only. You should cultivate larger plants specifically grown for their seeds if you want the amaranth grain. Some popular varieties include:
Red-leaf amaranth (Amaranthus tricolor): This varietal has especially nutritious foliage that tastes like slightly tangy spinach. 'Molten Fire' and 'Joseph's Coat' are popular cultivars of this species.
‘Burgundy’ (A. hypochondriacus): Stunning purple leaves, red flowers, and white seeds adorn this varietal.
‘Hopi Red Dye’ (A. cruentus): An heirloom species, it produces excellent protein-rich black seeds.
Propagating Amaranth
Thanks to their plentiful seeds, amaranth plants will readily self-seed in the garden. As they sprout in spring, the volunteers can be thinned out to about 10 to 18 inches apart, or carefully dug up and transplanted elsewhere. It's also possible to collect some of the seeds in the fall and replant them the following spring. Be aware, though, that if the original plants were hybrids, the volunteer seedlings may not "come true" and can look different than the parent plant.
How to Grow Amaranth From Seed
When planting amaranth outdoors, sow seeds about 4 inches apart, barely covering them with soil. Germination generally takes seven to 14 days. As they sprout, thin the plants out to a spacing of 10 to 18 inches.
If starting seeds indoors, you can use a general seed-starting mix and make sure to harden off the seedlings before transplanting them outdoors. The average outdoor temperature needs to reach about 55 degrees Fahrenheit before you can successfully plant the seedlings outdoors.
Harvesting Amaranth
You can harvest both the leaves and grains from any amaranth, but if your goal is an edible plant, choose a variety specialized for that. Some types of amaranth are marketed as best for seed production, while others are bred for their attractive, tasty leaves. Regardless of your cultivar, amaranth leaves can be harvested at any point. Small leaves are more tender, but the larger leaves boast a fuller flavor. Large size and heat won’t turn amaranth leaves bitter, as often occurs with other leafy greens, so you can harvest at any point throughout the season.
When harvesting the plant's leaves, make sure to leave the crown intact, as well as some leaves around the top, so the plant can continue to grow. Alternately, you can also cut the whole plant off at ground level when it is between 1 and 2 feet tall. It’s possible that it will resprout for another harvest, though you do risk introducing pests to the open stem.
To harvest amaranth grains, let the plant go all the way to flower. Keep an eye on the flowers as they bloom and begin to die back. Before they all turn brown, cut the flowers off and place them in bags, where they will dry. Shake the bag once they are dry, or knock the seeds loose over a cloth. Rinse away the dried seed “chaff” and enjoy your grain harvest. Amaranth is especially good in a porridge that also contains other grains, like millet and quinoa.
Common Pests/Diseases
Amaranth can fall prey to many of the same pests and diseases that affect other vegetables. Aphids and flea beetles are common; insecticidal soaps are a good remedy for the former, and floating row covers will protect the plants from the latter. Avoid using commercial pesticides with a "wait to pick" or any other type of warning regarding consumption. Many of these types of pesticides are broad-spectrum, designed to eliminate multiple insects, and may contain ingredients that aren't meant to be ingested by humans.
Root rot can also be a problem in wet, dense soil or in periods where rainfalls are frequent and copious. Once root rot occurs, the plant must be removed. Your best defense against the issue is maintaining well-draining soil and not overwatering the plant.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月13日
Tropical plants in the Alocasia genus feature stunning foliage that can become the centerpiece of a garden or room. Large rhizomes or tubers produce enormous heart-shaped or arrow-shaped ears, leading to the popular common name, elephant's ear. They are most often grown as houseplants, but it's common to bring them outdoors during the warm months, sometimes burying the entire pot in the ground to create a natural look.
Alocasias can grow very fast, and in the right conditions, some species are considered invasive, especially along the gulf coast of the United States. Thus, verify with your local municipality before planting this species outdoors in the garden. If you have children or pets, you might want to avoid these plants altogether because the leaves are toxic to humans and animals.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Alocasia
Common Name Alocasia, elephant ears, African mask
Plant Type Tropical plant grown as a houseplant in non-tropical climates
Mature Size 2–15 feet in height; 2–8 feet in spread (depends on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light indoors; part shade outdoors
Soil Type Loose, well-draining potting mix or crumbly loam
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Spring and summer
Flower Color Light butter-yellow (flowers are not showy)
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (often grown as a houseplant)
Native Areas Tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, eastern Australia
Toxicity Many species are highly toxic to humans and pets
Elephant's Ear Care
Even with a short growing season in northern climates, these plants can grow rapidly. In the warm summer months, Alocasia plants can produce a new leaf every week, and each new leaf can be twice the size of the previous week's. The leaf shapes can vary from slim arrowheads to wide heart-shaped leaves. have colorful veins and a variety of textures from thick, waxy, slick, and glossy.
Once the plant is in its dormant period (in the late fall and winter), it will begin resting. The rapid leaf growth will stop and the plant will likely remain as-is throughout the winter season. Continue to care for it, and the rapid growth will return the following growing season.
Light
Needs vary from shade to full sunlight, depending on the variety. Ask the grower or seller if the plant is sun-trained. Leaf color tends to be better among plants that grow best with more light.
Soil
Plant elephant's ear in loose, well-drained potting mix or crumbly loamy soil.
Water
Keep Alocasia plants moist all year; they are water-loving plants. There is a fine line with these plants. You want to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. They require less water during the winter months because the plant is dormant.
Allow the top few inches of soil to become nearly dry before watering. This will help keep the soil evenly moist. Soggy soil makes the plant susceptible to fungal infections.
Temperature and Humidity
Elephant ear plants will suffer below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Some varieties will die back during colder weather and re-sprout from the rhizome. They require, and thrive in, very humid environments. To raise the humidity around your plant, place it on a tray filled with pebbles and then add water until it rises to just below the bottom of the pot. Keep them away from cold drafts from windows, doors, and air conditioning.
Fertilizer
Alocasias can be heavy feeders, especially large specimens. Feed with liquid fertilizer during the growing season or frequent, small applications of granule fertilizer.
Is Elephant Ear Toxic?
Alocasia is a very poisonous plant; the leaves contain insoluble oxalate crystals. A human or pet chewing or biting into a leaf releases the crystals which can cause swelling and irritation of the mouth and GI tract. Very rarely, extreme swelling of the upper airway can occur making it difficult to breathe. Keep the plant away from children and pets and call poison control, your doctor, or veterinarian if a person or animal ingests a plant leaf.
Elephant Ear Varieties
There are about 70 species of Alocasia, as well as dozens of hybrids. Alocasia plants are primarily hybridized because of the appeal of their leaf form, color, and size. Consider these varieties:
Alocasia sanderiana, also known as the Kris plant, has extremely dark green foliage and provides an exotic-looking houseplant. Its long, pointed leaves have white veins and scalloped edges outlined in white.
Alocasia x amazonica is a hybrid that features leathery, wavy-edged, arrowhead-shaped, dark bronze-green leaves (up to 16 inches long)
Alocasia macrorrhizos, also known as giant taro, is a truly enormous plant that can grow up to 15 feet tall and 8 feet wide with leaves that can reach 3 to 4 feet long and 2 to 4 feet wide.
Additionally, the plant has been extensively hybridized. Most Alocasia species will survive in shade, but they often appreciate slightly brighter filtered sunlight. The bigger varieties can be trained to handle the full tropical sun. Keep all species warm, moist, and humid. Trim away faded leaves. Like all aroids, Alocasias flower with a typical spathe and spadix, but the flower is usually unremarkable.
Potting and Repotting
Repot Alocasia varieties annually into larger pots with fresh, free-draining potting soil. Also, it's best to divide the rhizome annually to keep the plant a manageable size and increase your collection.
Propagating Alocasia
Most Alocasia plants can be propagated by clump or rhizome division. Cut off a piece of the underground rhizome and pot it up separately. Keep it warm and moist until new growth begins.
Common Pests/Diseases
While quite striking, these plants can be quite sensitive to a variety of diseases including crown, stem, and root rot, leaf spot, and Xanthomonas infection. Signs of diseases are typically black or dark brown spots on the leaves and a yellowish rim around the spots. You can prevent disease with proper watering practices; do not overwater these plants. Keep the foliage dry and provide proper air circulation around and near the plant.
Common pests of Alocasia include mealybugs, scale, aphids, and spider mites. Every few weeks, spray the plant with warm soapy water to prevent these pests and keep the plant dust-free. If an infestation occurs, use an ultra-fine insecticide oil or neem oil. These products will kill the pests and their eggs.
Alocasias can grow very fast, and in the right conditions, some species are considered invasive, especially along the gulf coast of the United States. Thus, verify with your local municipality before planting this species outdoors in the garden. If you have children or pets, you might want to avoid these plants altogether because the leaves are toxic to humans and animals.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Alocasia
Common Name Alocasia, elephant ears, African mask
Plant Type Tropical plant grown as a houseplant in non-tropical climates
Mature Size 2–15 feet in height; 2–8 feet in spread (depends on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light indoors; part shade outdoors
Soil Type Loose, well-draining potting mix or crumbly loam
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Spring and summer
Flower Color Light butter-yellow (flowers are not showy)
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (often grown as a houseplant)
Native Areas Tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, eastern Australia
Toxicity Many species are highly toxic to humans and pets
Elephant's Ear Care
Even with a short growing season in northern climates, these plants can grow rapidly. In the warm summer months, Alocasia plants can produce a new leaf every week, and each new leaf can be twice the size of the previous week's. The leaf shapes can vary from slim arrowheads to wide heart-shaped leaves. have colorful veins and a variety of textures from thick, waxy, slick, and glossy.
Once the plant is in its dormant period (in the late fall and winter), it will begin resting. The rapid leaf growth will stop and the plant will likely remain as-is throughout the winter season. Continue to care for it, and the rapid growth will return the following growing season.
Light
Needs vary from shade to full sunlight, depending on the variety. Ask the grower or seller if the plant is sun-trained. Leaf color tends to be better among plants that grow best with more light.
Soil
Plant elephant's ear in loose, well-drained potting mix or crumbly loamy soil.
Water
Keep Alocasia plants moist all year; they are water-loving plants. There is a fine line with these plants. You want to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. They require less water during the winter months because the plant is dormant.
Allow the top few inches of soil to become nearly dry before watering. This will help keep the soil evenly moist. Soggy soil makes the plant susceptible to fungal infections.
Temperature and Humidity
Elephant ear plants will suffer below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Some varieties will die back during colder weather and re-sprout from the rhizome. They require, and thrive in, very humid environments. To raise the humidity around your plant, place it on a tray filled with pebbles and then add water until it rises to just below the bottom of the pot. Keep them away from cold drafts from windows, doors, and air conditioning.
Fertilizer
Alocasias can be heavy feeders, especially large specimens. Feed with liquid fertilizer during the growing season or frequent, small applications of granule fertilizer.
Is Elephant Ear Toxic?
Alocasia is a very poisonous plant; the leaves contain insoluble oxalate crystals. A human or pet chewing or biting into a leaf releases the crystals which can cause swelling and irritation of the mouth and GI tract. Very rarely, extreme swelling of the upper airway can occur making it difficult to breathe. Keep the plant away from children and pets and call poison control, your doctor, or veterinarian if a person or animal ingests a plant leaf.
Elephant Ear Varieties
There are about 70 species of Alocasia, as well as dozens of hybrids. Alocasia plants are primarily hybridized because of the appeal of their leaf form, color, and size. Consider these varieties:
Alocasia sanderiana, also known as the Kris plant, has extremely dark green foliage and provides an exotic-looking houseplant. Its long, pointed leaves have white veins and scalloped edges outlined in white.
Alocasia x amazonica is a hybrid that features leathery, wavy-edged, arrowhead-shaped, dark bronze-green leaves (up to 16 inches long)
Alocasia macrorrhizos, also known as giant taro, is a truly enormous plant that can grow up to 15 feet tall and 8 feet wide with leaves that can reach 3 to 4 feet long and 2 to 4 feet wide.
Additionally, the plant has been extensively hybridized. Most Alocasia species will survive in shade, but they often appreciate slightly brighter filtered sunlight. The bigger varieties can be trained to handle the full tropical sun. Keep all species warm, moist, and humid. Trim away faded leaves. Like all aroids, Alocasias flower with a typical spathe and spadix, but the flower is usually unremarkable.
Potting and Repotting
Repot Alocasia varieties annually into larger pots with fresh, free-draining potting soil. Also, it's best to divide the rhizome annually to keep the plant a manageable size and increase your collection.
Propagating Alocasia
Most Alocasia plants can be propagated by clump or rhizome division. Cut off a piece of the underground rhizome and pot it up separately. Keep it warm and moist until new growth begins.
Common Pests/Diseases
While quite striking, these plants can be quite sensitive to a variety of diseases including crown, stem, and root rot, leaf spot, and Xanthomonas infection. Signs of diseases are typically black or dark brown spots on the leaves and a yellowish rim around the spots. You can prevent disease with proper watering practices; do not overwater these plants. Keep the foliage dry and provide proper air circulation around and near the plant.
Common pests of Alocasia include mealybugs, scale, aphids, and spider mites. Every few weeks, spray the plant with warm soapy water to prevent these pests and keep the plant dust-free. If an infestation occurs, use an ultra-fine insecticide oil or neem oil. These products will kill the pests and their eggs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月07日
No potting soil? No problem. You don’t need soil to keep your home full of gorgeous houseplants. Meet Tillandsia kolbii, a variety of air plant.
These plants actual absorb nutrients and water through their leaves, not their roots. Because of this, they don’t have big root systems like the usual houseplant. These plants can be set wherever you’d like a little greenery, no pot needed. In fact, you can even hang them.
The Tillandsia kolbii has compact, fuzzy leaves that are a soft green color. With proper care, they may also produce beautiful, unique blooms in red, orange, or purple.
Botanical Name Tillandsia kolbii
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 1 to 3 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, orange, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, USA
Native Area Mexico and Guatemala
Tillandsia Kolbii Care
Caring for these plants is a breeze. Choose an area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow to keep your Tillandsia kolbii the happiest. The biggest thing they require is regular watering. How do you water a plant with no soil, you may ask? Regular misting is a wonderful way to keep your plants humid.
With proper attention and care, your Tillandsia kolbii may even bloom. These amazing little plants only bloom once in their lifetime, and the process may take years.
Once they are mature, they will produce pups. These are new little air plants that will pop out of the base of the mother plant. You can either leave these attached so they slowly grow a huge connected colony of air plants, or remove them to create more plants to spread around. Occasionally, mealybugs and scale may pose pest problems.
Light
Tillandsia kolbii, like most air plants, loves bright, indirect lighting. Despite being native to Mexico and Guatemala, too much sunshine can actually harm or burn the plant. Signs of too much sun include burn marks or red-tipped leaves. The red coloring is caused by stress.
Soil
The name “air plants” has become a popular way to describe plants belonging to the Tillandsia family because they don't need to be grown in soil.
Instead, just set your Tillandsia kolbii wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Whether that be your desk, atop a decorative piece of driftwood, or even in a hanging terrarium. In warm areas, these plants can even be grown outside and make a wonderful addition to your porch décor.
Water
Unlike most houseplants, the Tillandsia kolbii cannot be watered in the usual fashion. To give your air plant the water it needs, soak it in a bowl of water for 10 to 30 minutes every week or two. If your air plant is blooming, be sure to keep the delicate flower above the water during a soak to avoid damaging it.
Once you remove your air plant from the water, tip it upside-down to let the excess water drain from its foliage, and then return it to its display area. Let your air plant dry completely before the next soaking session. This will help avoid problems with rot.
Make sure to use clean water, like spring or filtered water. If you must use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate.
Temperature and Humidity
Tillandsia kolbii loves humidity. Regularly misting it will provide the humidity and moisture that it needs. In drier areas, you may need to mist your air plant daily. In more humid areas, you may only need to mist it every three days or so.
These plants also love warmer temperatures. However, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. Too much heat or cold can damage the plants. Placing them in a well-ventilated area with bright indirect sunlight is ideal.
Fertilizer
Because air plants do not have soil, you will need to fertilize during their monthly soak by adding it to the water. Using a fertilizer designed for air plants is best.
However, fertilizer is not a huge need for these little plants. They will grow wonderfully even without additional feeding. Too much fertilizer can even kill your Tillandsia kolbii.
Propagating Tillandsia kolbii
Propagating an air plant is fun and easy. In fact, your air plant will tell you when. These plants create what are known as “pups” once they are mature. These pups are new air plants. Once your Tillandsia kolbii is mature and producing pups, here is how to remove them.
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Locate the base of the pup.
3. Gently pop the pup off the mother plant. Be sure to grip the pup at its base leaves so no tearing occurs on its top leaves. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim the pup from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place it in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Before you know it, you’ll have a whole family of air plants. Don’t be discouraged if you do not see pups for some time, though. Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups. Patience is key.
These plants actual absorb nutrients and water through their leaves, not their roots. Because of this, they don’t have big root systems like the usual houseplant. These plants can be set wherever you’d like a little greenery, no pot needed. In fact, you can even hang them.
The Tillandsia kolbii has compact, fuzzy leaves that are a soft green color. With proper care, they may also produce beautiful, unique blooms in red, orange, or purple.
Botanical Name Tillandsia kolbii
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 1 to 3 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, orange, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, USA
Native Area Mexico and Guatemala
Tillandsia Kolbii Care
Caring for these plants is a breeze. Choose an area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow to keep your Tillandsia kolbii the happiest. The biggest thing they require is regular watering. How do you water a plant with no soil, you may ask? Regular misting is a wonderful way to keep your plants humid.
With proper attention and care, your Tillandsia kolbii may even bloom. These amazing little plants only bloom once in their lifetime, and the process may take years.
Once they are mature, they will produce pups. These are new little air plants that will pop out of the base of the mother plant. You can either leave these attached so they slowly grow a huge connected colony of air plants, or remove them to create more plants to spread around. Occasionally, mealybugs and scale may pose pest problems.
Light
Tillandsia kolbii, like most air plants, loves bright, indirect lighting. Despite being native to Mexico and Guatemala, too much sunshine can actually harm or burn the plant. Signs of too much sun include burn marks or red-tipped leaves. The red coloring is caused by stress.
Soil
The name “air plants” has become a popular way to describe plants belonging to the Tillandsia family because they don't need to be grown in soil.
Instead, just set your Tillandsia kolbii wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Whether that be your desk, atop a decorative piece of driftwood, or even in a hanging terrarium. In warm areas, these plants can even be grown outside and make a wonderful addition to your porch décor.
Water
Unlike most houseplants, the Tillandsia kolbii cannot be watered in the usual fashion. To give your air plant the water it needs, soak it in a bowl of water for 10 to 30 minutes every week or two. If your air plant is blooming, be sure to keep the delicate flower above the water during a soak to avoid damaging it.
Once you remove your air plant from the water, tip it upside-down to let the excess water drain from its foliage, and then return it to its display area. Let your air plant dry completely before the next soaking session. This will help avoid problems with rot.
Make sure to use clean water, like spring or filtered water. If you must use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate.
Temperature and Humidity
Tillandsia kolbii loves humidity. Regularly misting it will provide the humidity and moisture that it needs. In drier areas, you may need to mist your air plant daily. In more humid areas, you may only need to mist it every three days or so.
These plants also love warmer temperatures. However, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. Too much heat or cold can damage the plants. Placing them in a well-ventilated area with bright indirect sunlight is ideal.
Fertilizer
Because air plants do not have soil, you will need to fertilize during their monthly soak by adding it to the water. Using a fertilizer designed for air plants is best.
However, fertilizer is not a huge need for these little plants. They will grow wonderfully even without additional feeding. Too much fertilizer can even kill your Tillandsia kolbii.
Propagating Tillandsia kolbii
Propagating an air plant is fun and easy. In fact, your air plant will tell you when. These plants create what are known as “pups” once they are mature. These pups are new air plants. Once your Tillandsia kolbii is mature and producing pups, here is how to remove them.
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Locate the base of the pup.
3. Gently pop the pup off the mother plant. Be sure to grip the pup at its base leaves so no tearing occurs on its top leaves. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim the pup from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place it in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Before you know it, you’ll have a whole family of air plants. Don’t be discouraged if you do not see pups for some time, though. Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups. Patience is key.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月01日
Agave plants (Agave spp.) generally are succulents with large leaves that end in spiny tips. There's a lot of variety in the agave genus. There are the large, stiff specimens that can grow to 10 feet or more in height and width. And there are the small dish-sized agaves, as well as a few agave species with soft leaves and no spines. Agave foliage tends toward a blue-green in hardier varieties and a gray-green in warm-climate varieties. There are also some that are variegated with gold or white markings.
It's typically best to plant this slow-growing succulent in the spring or early fall. When agave matures after several years or even several decades, a tall flower stalk often grows out of the plant’s center. The flowers are bell-shaped and long-lasting in shades of white, yellow, and green. For most agave species, once the flowers produce berry seed pods, the plant dies.
Botanical Name Agave
Common Name Agave, century plant
Plant Type Perennial succulent
Mature Size Different varieties average 1 to 20 feet tall and 1 to 10 feet wide.
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy or rocky, dry, well-draining
Soil pH 6.6 to 6.8
Bloom Time Most plants only bloom once in their lifetime.
Flower Color Green, white, yellow
Hardiness Zones 5 to 11
Native Area Hot, arid regions of the Americas; also some tropical areas
How to Grow Agave
Agaves are grown for their dramatic foliage, not their flowers. One large agave is all you need to make a sculptural focal point in the garden. Just make sure there is plenty of room to walk around it, so no one accidentally brushes against the spiny tips. Agaves also can make a nice border grouping and are a textural contrast with other plants. Pairing them with ornamental grasses softens their hard edges. Plus, small agave species are excellent for containers, indoors or outside.
Agaves thrive on neglect. The key is to make sure they have well-draining soil and ample sunlight. When grown in an environment they like, they need very little supplemental care from you.
Light
Agave plants prefer a spot with full sun, but they can tolerate a little shade. The hotter the climate is, the more shade they can handle.
Soil
Agave plants will tolerate any well-draining soil, but their preference is rocky or sandy soil. Poor soil drainage can lead to root rot, which can kill a plant.
Water
Mature agave plants are very drought tolerant. You generally only need to water them if you've had a long stretch without rainfall and the soil is completely dry. However, when you are first establishing a plant, water it every four or five days for the first month. Then, water once a week, gradually spacing watering to every other week, depending on rainfall.
Temperature and Humidity
The majority of agave plants can't tolerate frost and only can grow as far north as USDA growing zones 8 or 9. But there are some, such as Agave parryi, that are reliably perennial to zone 5. Moreover, most agaves prefer a climate with low humidity. High humidity can lead to crown rot on a plant.
Fertilizer
Feeding typically isn't necessary for agave plants. In fact, feeding encourages flowering, which you don’t want to happen too soon because most agave plants die after flowering.
Growing Agave in Containers
As with many succulent plants, agaves have shallow roots. So you can grow them in a shallow container because they don’t need much soil. Just make sure the container can anchor the weight of the plant. Use a well-draining potting mix made for succulents. Water the container about once a week in the summer and monthly in the winter. Wait until the surface of the soil is dry before watering.
Plan to repot your agave plant every couple of years with new soil. If the pot is overcrowded with roots, go ahead and cut the roots back. Then, give the plant a week or so to adjust before you water it again.
Common Pests and Diseases
Agaves generally have very few problems with pests and diseases. However, the agave snout weevil can burrow into a plant’s center to lay its eggs, causing the plant to collapse. Unfortunately, you probably won’t notice this until it’s too late to save the plant. So instead remove the plant to avoid the pests spreading to any other agaves you might have.
Varieties of Agave
There are many agave species that range in size and appearance, including:
Agave attenuata: This is a popular spineless variety, also known as the foxtail or dragon-tree agave. It grows around 4 to 5 feet tall and a bit wider.
Agave parviflora: Its leaves have white markings and curling filaments that give it a hairy look. It only gets about 6 inches tall and blooms in six to eight years with green flowers.
Agave tequilana azul: Weber's blue agave is used to make tequila, but it is also a very attractive garden plant, reaching upward of 6 feet tall and flowering in six to eight years with yellow blooms.
Agave victoria-reginae: As this plant matures its broad leaves cup inward, forming a dome. It reaches a height of about a foot, and cream flowers appear in 20 to 30 years.
It's typically best to plant this slow-growing succulent in the spring or early fall. When agave matures after several years or even several decades, a tall flower stalk often grows out of the plant’s center. The flowers are bell-shaped and long-lasting in shades of white, yellow, and green. For most agave species, once the flowers produce berry seed pods, the plant dies.
Botanical Name Agave
Common Name Agave, century plant
Plant Type Perennial succulent
Mature Size Different varieties average 1 to 20 feet tall and 1 to 10 feet wide.
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy or rocky, dry, well-draining
Soil pH 6.6 to 6.8
Bloom Time Most plants only bloom once in their lifetime.
Flower Color Green, white, yellow
Hardiness Zones 5 to 11
Native Area Hot, arid regions of the Americas; also some tropical areas
How to Grow Agave
Agaves are grown for their dramatic foliage, not their flowers. One large agave is all you need to make a sculptural focal point in the garden. Just make sure there is plenty of room to walk around it, so no one accidentally brushes against the spiny tips. Agaves also can make a nice border grouping and are a textural contrast with other plants. Pairing them with ornamental grasses softens their hard edges. Plus, small agave species are excellent for containers, indoors or outside.
Agaves thrive on neglect. The key is to make sure they have well-draining soil and ample sunlight. When grown in an environment they like, they need very little supplemental care from you.
Light
Agave plants prefer a spot with full sun, but they can tolerate a little shade. The hotter the climate is, the more shade they can handle.
Soil
Agave plants will tolerate any well-draining soil, but their preference is rocky or sandy soil. Poor soil drainage can lead to root rot, which can kill a plant.
Water
Mature agave plants are very drought tolerant. You generally only need to water them if you've had a long stretch without rainfall and the soil is completely dry. However, when you are first establishing a plant, water it every four or five days for the first month. Then, water once a week, gradually spacing watering to every other week, depending on rainfall.
Temperature and Humidity
The majority of agave plants can't tolerate frost and only can grow as far north as USDA growing zones 8 or 9. But there are some, such as Agave parryi, that are reliably perennial to zone 5. Moreover, most agaves prefer a climate with low humidity. High humidity can lead to crown rot on a plant.
Fertilizer
Feeding typically isn't necessary for agave plants. In fact, feeding encourages flowering, which you don’t want to happen too soon because most agave plants die after flowering.
Growing Agave in Containers
As with many succulent plants, agaves have shallow roots. So you can grow them in a shallow container because they don’t need much soil. Just make sure the container can anchor the weight of the plant. Use a well-draining potting mix made for succulents. Water the container about once a week in the summer and monthly in the winter. Wait until the surface of the soil is dry before watering.
Plan to repot your agave plant every couple of years with new soil. If the pot is overcrowded with roots, go ahead and cut the roots back. Then, give the plant a week or so to adjust before you water it again.
Common Pests and Diseases
Agaves generally have very few problems with pests and diseases. However, the agave snout weevil can burrow into a plant’s center to lay its eggs, causing the plant to collapse. Unfortunately, you probably won’t notice this until it’s too late to save the plant. So instead remove the plant to avoid the pests spreading to any other agaves you might have.
Varieties of Agave
There are many agave species that range in size and appearance, including:
Agave attenuata: This is a popular spineless variety, also known as the foxtail or dragon-tree agave. It grows around 4 to 5 feet tall and a bit wider.
Agave parviflora: Its leaves have white markings and curling filaments that give it a hairy look. It only gets about 6 inches tall and blooms in six to eight years with green flowers.
Agave tequilana azul: Weber's blue agave is used to make tequila, but it is also a very attractive garden plant, reaching upward of 6 feet tall and flowering in six to eight years with yellow blooms.
Agave victoria-reginae: As this plant matures its broad leaves cup inward, forming a dome. It reaches a height of about a foot, and cream flowers appear in 20 to 30 years.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月21日
The Aerangis genus comprises many tropical orchids which can be distinguished by their lovely white, star-shaped flowers. The genus contains about 50 plants, and though they mostly originate in tropical regions of Africa, a few are also native to the islands of the Indian ocean. Aerangis orchids, though uncommon in cultivation, are not overly difficult to grow, even by novices. However, they don't react well to sudden environmental changes, and like all orchids, plants are often lost to sudden changes in temperature or humidity.
Typically, these orchids are epiphytes—plants that grow attached to trees rather than in soil—and they’re often grown in hanging baskets filled with bark chip/ sphagnum moss mixture. The best and most distinctive feature of an Aerangis plant is its waxy flowers, which are usually white or yellow and shaped like five-pointed stars. Not only do these flowers give off a pleasant aroma, but they also bloom with regularity.
A single Aerangis specimen can bear many flowers at once. Their leaves are evergreen, and their spurs contain nectar that is pleasing to birds. Despite their relative rarity, several species of Aerangis plants, such as A. citrata, are sometimes grown by hobbyists, and there are also a few hybrids available to orchid aficionados and botanical experts. Gardeners who can mimic the tropical conditions in which the Aerangis orchid thrives will want to consider this understated and pleasant genus.
Botanical Name Aerangis spp.
Common Name Aerangis orchids
Plant Type Epiphytic orchids
Mature Size 6–24 inches (varies by species)
Sun Exposure Part sun, bright filtered light
Soil Type Orchid potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0 (acidic)
Bloom Time Spring to fall (varies by species)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical Africa, Madagascar
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aerangis Orchid Care
As is true of most tropical orchids, successfully growing Aerangis plants depends on maintaining a proper balance of the various elements on which they depend. They need a well-aerated environment, lots of sunlight, and lots of moisture in the air. Remember to feed them regularly, and if their blooms are insufficient you can always increase the fertilizer levels.
Aerangis plants are especially well-suited to grow vertically on a hard surface, so certainly consider mounting your plant if you grow one. These are fairly simple orchids that beginners should be able to grow with a little effort; just watch out for common orchid pests, like scale and aphids, that may prey on your plants.
Light
These tropical orchids need lots of bright indirect light in order to thrive, but they don't care for direct sunlight. They prefer a bit more shade than other orchids, and the best environment will simulate the light of an open location location on a brightly overcast day.
Soil
A well-draining epiphyte mix is best, such as chopped sphagnum moss with styrofoam or wood chips. A standard orchid mix works well when growing these plants in hanging baskets. Good drainage is essential, as standing water will kill these plants.
Water
Aerangis orchids need a very moist environment, especially when grown epiphytically. Keep them well-watered at all times. A thorough misting every day is often required.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants require warm tropical temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants are not frost-tolerant, and they don't react well to sudden changes in temperature. In native locations, many of these species grow at higher altitudes in tropical zones, so they don't necessarily need the deep heat of jungle bottomlands. Nighttime temps in the 50- to 60-degree range and daytime temps from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal.
These plants like humidity levels of at least 75 percent, so they will grow best in a greenhouse or terrarium environment. If grown in an open environment, plan on misting them every day with room-temperature water (not cold water).
Fertilizer
Feed regularly with a balanced, diluted fertilizer during the growing season in spring and summer. Their fertilizer can be scaled back during the dormant season in fall and winter.
Aerangis Orchid Varieties
One relatively popular Aerangis is A. citrata, a variant from Madagascar with yellowish flowers. It’s from those flowers that it derives its name, which means “lemon-colored”.
Some other popular species include A. articulata, A. biloba, A. fastuosa, A. flabellifolia, A. mystacidii, and A. somasticta.
Also popular with collectors are the several hybrids, developed by crossing Aerangis with other orchid genera—the Aerangis genus hybridizes easily with Angraecum, Aeranthes, and several other orchid variants.
Potting and Repotting
Many people mount Aerangis plants on a sheer, vertical surface, like cork or hardwood. If you choose to grow your plants this way, repotting them won’t be necessary. However, they are often grown hanging baskets filled with a typical orchid mix that blends sphagnum moss and fine wood chips. In this case, it’s a good idea to change out the container once every few years. Lift the plant as a whole and try not to damage its root systems, which are fairly fragile.
Propagating Aerangis Orchids
These epiphytes can be propagated by division. Cut away a large section from the stem and replant it in warm, moist conditions. Many gardeners cover new divisions with bags in order to seal in moisture, and you can also treat the cuttings with rooting hormone. Be patient: It can take a little while for tropical orchids to root in a new environment.
Common Pests/Diseases
Orchids can be temperamental plants, susceptible to many pests and diseases, which are more likely to occur when plants are in less-than-ideal cultural conditions.
Mites, mealybugs, and scale insects are common pests, best treated by dabbing them with a swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol.
Fungal or bacterial leaf spots often occur when the plant is too wet or too cold. Affected spots on leaves should be carefully cut away with a razor blade, with the cut edges of the leaves treated with a fungicide powder. These plants have sparse foliage, so this is usually not a difficult task. Viral infections can cause serious distortion of leaves, and affected plants will need to be destroyed.
Flower bud drop can be caused by too much or too little water, or temps that are too low or too high. Getting these conditions just right is the biggest challenge when growing orchids.
Typically, these orchids are epiphytes—plants that grow attached to trees rather than in soil—and they’re often grown in hanging baskets filled with bark chip/ sphagnum moss mixture. The best and most distinctive feature of an Aerangis plant is its waxy flowers, which are usually white or yellow and shaped like five-pointed stars. Not only do these flowers give off a pleasant aroma, but they also bloom with regularity.
A single Aerangis specimen can bear many flowers at once. Their leaves are evergreen, and their spurs contain nectar that is pleasing to birds. Despite their relative rarity, several species of Aerangis plants, such as A. citrata, are sometimes grown by hobbyists, and there are also a few hybrids available to orchid aficionados and botanical experts. Gardeners who can mimic the tropical conditions in which the Aerangis orchid thrives will want to consider this understated and pleasant genus.
Botanical Name Aerangis spp.
Common Name Aerangis orchids
Plant Type Epiphytic orchids
Mature Size 6–24 inches (varies by species)
Sun Exposure Part sun, bright filtered light
Soil Type Orchid potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0 (acidic)
Bloom Time Spring to fall (varies by species)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical Africa, Madagascar
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aerangis Orchid Care
As is true of most tropical orchids, successfully growing Aerangis plants depends on maintaining a proper balance of the various elements on which they depend. They need a well-aerated environment, lots of sunlight, and lots of moisture in the air. Remember to feed them regularly, and if their blooms are insufficient you can always increase the fertilizer levels.
Aerangis plants are especially well-suited to grow vertically on a hard surface, so certainly consider mounting your plant if you grow one. These are fairly simple orchids that beginners should be able to grow with a little effort; just watch out for common orchid pests, like scale and aphids, that may prey on your plants.
Light
These tropical orchids need lots of bright indirect light in order to thrive, but they don't care for direct sunlight. They prefer a bit more shade than other orchids, and the best environment will simulate the light of an open location location on a brightly overcast day.
Soil
A well-draining epiphyte mix is best, such as chopped sphagnum moss with styrofoam or wood chips. A standard orchid mix works well when growing these plants in hanging baskets. Good drainage is essential, as standing water will kill these plants.
Water
Aerangis orchids need a very moist environment, especially when grown epiphytically. Keep them well-watered at all times. A thorough misting every day is often required.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants require warm tropical temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants are not frost-tolerant, and they don't react well to sudden changes in temperature. In native locations, many of these species grow at higher altitudes in tropical zones, so they don't necessarily need the deep heat of jungle bottomlands. Nighttime temps in the 50- to 60-degree range and daytime temps from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal.
These plants like humidity levels of at least 75 percent, so they will grow best in a greenhouse or terrarium environment. If grown in an open environment, plan on misting them every day with room-temperature water (not cold water).
Fertilizer
Feed regularly with a balanced, diluted fertilizer during the growing season in spring and summer. Their fertilizer can be scaled back during the dormant season in fall and winter.
Aerangis Orchid Varieties
One relatively popular Aerangis is A. citrata, a variant from Madagascar with yellowish flowers. It’s from those flowers that it derives its name, which means “lemon-colored”.
Some other popular species include A. articulata, A. biloba, A. fastuosa, A. flabellifolia, A. mystacidii, and A. somasticta.
Also popular with collectors are the several hybrids, developed by crossing Aerangis with other orchid genera—the Aerangis genus hybridizes easily with Angraecum, Aeranthes, and several other orchid variants.
Potting and Repotting
Many people mount Aerangis plants on a sheer, vertical surface, like cork or hardwood. If you choose to grow your plants this way, repotting them won’t be necessary. However, they are often grown hanging baskets filled with a typical orchid mix that blends sphagnum moss and fine wood chips. In this case, it’s a good idea to change out the container once every few years. Lift the plant as a whole and try not to damage its root systems, which are fairly fragile.
Propagating Aerangis Orchids
These epiphytes can be propagated by division. Cut away a large section from the stem and replant it in warm, moist conditions. Many gardeners cover new divisions with bags in order to seal in moisture, and you can also treat the cuttings with rooting hormone. Be patient: It can take a little while for tropical orchids to root in a new environment.
Common Pests/Diseases
Orchids can be temperamental plants, susceptible to many pests and diseases, which are more likely to occur when plants are in less-than-ideal cultural conditions.
Mites, mealybugs, and scale insects are common pests, best treated by dabbing them with a swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol.
Fungal or bacterial leaf spots often occur when the plant is too wet or too cold. Affected spots on leaves should be carefully cut away with a razor blade, with the cut edges of the leaves treated with a fungicide powder. These plants have sparse foliage, so this is usually not a difficult task. Viral infections can cause serious distortion of leaves, and affected plants will need to be destroyed.
Flower bud drop can be caused by too much or too little water, or temps that are too low or too high. Getting these conditions just right is the biggest challenge when growing orchids.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月15日
Selecting the Cuttings
SELECT THE BEST POSSIBLE STOCK PLANTS
The best stock plants produce the best cuttings used for propagation. During each growing cycle, growers must select plants that exhibit the best growth characteristics; these are selected as ‘stock plants’. ‘Off-shore’ cuttings are from selected and maintained stock plants. The same selection process can be done at one’s own growing facility.
JUVENILE CUTTINGS
Cuttings taken from the newer juvenile parts of many plants root better than older mature parts. Shoots at the tops of the plant are physiologically older (more mature) than the shoots at the bottom of the plant (more juvenile). The top shoots have the characteristics of the more mature parts of the plant from which they originate. Juvenile cuttings require lower plant rooting hormone rates compared to the ‘older’ cuttings.
To maintain juvenality, annual and perennial cuttings should be taken from young stock plants. These stock plants, often a half year old, are used to produce the next generation stock plants from current cuttings. For woody plants ‘hedging’ can be done.
THE 'BEST' TIME TO TAKE CUTTINGS
Some plants, especially those which go dormant, have different rooting ability at different times of the year. Timing of a few weeks in taking of cuttings may have success or failure. After maturing to a certain age, often years, cuttings taken from certain plants may not be able to produce roots.
TYPICAL TIMING TO TAKE CUTTINGS
• Herbaceous cuttings from greenhouse crops, annual and tropical plants: anytime.
• Deciduous and evergreen plant cuttings: early summer through early fall.
• Dormant hardwood cuttings: fall or winter.
PREPARATION AND CARE OF CUTTINGS
Before taking cuttings, stock plants must be provided with good light and fertilization. This will boost stored carbohydrates used to feed the newly formed roots.
• Herbaceous plant cuttings should be treated and stuck soon after being taken. To prevent heat damage, in hot climates cuttings are put in coolers soon after being cut. Perennial and annual cutting suppliers may have offshore stock plant nurseries. When shipped, cuttings from these nurseries are kept chilled during transit using special cartons that protect the cuttings from temperature variation. The cuttings are packed in plastic bags to assure continued hydration. Shipping time is kept short, assuring prompt arrival at the rooting facility. Certain plants do not ship well; to assure propagation success, those stock plants should be grown near the rooting faculty.
• Winter woody cuttings taken in the fall can be treated with rooting hormones, kept in plastic, stored in cold storage, then planted-out in the spring.
• Growers usually take plant shoot cuttings from plant growth of the current growing season. Generally, thin cuttings will root more easily than thick cuttings. No one cutting type is useful to propagate all plants.
TYPES OF CUTTINGS
STEM CUTTINGS
‘Stem cuttings’ are the out-growing stems, mature sprouts or tip cuttings. Growers may take many types of stem cuttings.
• SOFTWOOD & HERBACEOUS CUTTINGS:
these are the fast growing soft tips of stems, usually taken in the spring. Herbaceous cuttings, sometimes called ‘tip cuttings’ or ‘shoot cuttings’, are taken from the young soft tips of stems.
Softwood and Herbaceous cuttings have many variations. Cuttings taken from annuals, herbaceous perennials, tropical plants and house plants are easier to propagate from cuttings than more hardened cuttings.
• HARDWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are taken from the fully mature stems of deciduous shrubs and trees. Stock plants for these cuttings require careful selection and preparation before growers take the cuttings. Pruning of the stock plants allow them to produce new growth early in the growing season. The new growth can produce roots. Growers take these cuttings at the end of the growing season or during the dormant season.
• GREENWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are the soft tips or stems after the spring growth has slowed. The stem is harder and woodier than the soft wood cutting.
• SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS:
these are taken during the late summer after the annual growth has slowed. The stem is harder than softwood or green wood cuttings.
Other Types of Cuttings
SCION CUTTINGS
‘Scion cuttings’ are dormant 'ligneous' woody twigs.
EYE CUTTINGS
‘Eye cuttings’ are pieces of foliated or defoliated stalks with one or more eyes.
ROOT CUTTINGS
‘Root cuttings’ are parts of the root, usually annual. Growers take these from certain plants which have the capacity to regenerate stems from root parts.
LEAF CUTTINGS
‘Leaf cuttings’ are parts of the leaf. New roots develop at the base or veins of the cutting. Dry powder rooting hormones are usually used to treat these cuttings.
HANDLING UN-ROOTED CUTTIGS
• After taking cuttings, stick as soon as possible.
• USE PLANT ROOTING HORMONES.
• Do inspection.
• Reduce wilting during rooting.
• Maintain the appropriate environmental controls.
• Practice good sanitation.
HANDLING OFF-SHORE UN-ROOTED CUTTINGS
After receiving cuttings from off-shore sources, open all boxes immediately. Inspect the un-rooted cuttings for damage, dehydration, heat or freeze damage, breakage or rot. Report any missing items or damaged cuttings to the vendor. Do not allow the boxes to remain in sunny or hot places, or below freezing temperatures. Growers should stick the un-rooted cuttings into pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. If it not possible to stick the un-rooted cuttings immediately they can be held for several days in a cooler between 35-45°F. The cuttings will deteriorate rapidly at warm temperatures.
WOUNDING
• Hardwood cuttings may root better if a 1/2 to 3/4 inch long notch, “wound,” is made at the basal end before applying the plant rooting hormone.
• Tropical and other herbaceous cuttings are not 'wounded'.
MEDIA
Stick cuttings as soon as possible after either taking cuttings or receiving off-shore cuttings. Use pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. ‘Airy’ media allows oxygen to stimulate root growth. (See page 45 for notes.)
STICKING DEPTH
Stick the cuttings just deep enough that the medium anchors them. Thin cutting may be stuck 1/4-1/2 inch deep.
TRAY SIZE AND DIRECT STICKING
Tray sizes range from 36 to 128 cell. Larger cells are used for cuttings scheduled to remain in the starting tray longer. Un-rooted cuttings can also direct stick in the finishing container or sometimes beds.
ROOTING SOLUTIONS AND ROOTING POWDERS
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts & Rhizopon AA dry powder rooting hormones are applied to cuttings from ‘easy-to-root’ to ‘difficult-to-root’. Treated cuttings quickly form new uniform roots, strong root mass and homogenous propagation crops.
CONTROL OF THE GROWING AREA
Raising selected stock plants under controlled conditions is important. When growers give their stock plants proper care, the plants will produce the best cuttings. ‘Just taking’ cuttings from random ‘field plants’ leads to marginal results. The same way, control of the propagation house is equally important to the propagation of new plants.
Before production, always perform trials on selected plants, within the same facility.
INSPECTION
Growers must inspect their crops regularly to observe both intended and undesired results. Records should be kept that include information of the methods, materials, and plants used, and the quality of stock plants and cuttings.
ROOTED CUTTING CARE
Early stage treatment of the cutting crop is essential to produce high quality finished plants. Do not allow the rooted cuttings to become over-rooted, dried-out, crowded or under-fertilized. These situations may reduce plant growth.
PROVIDING THE BEST POSSIBLE CONDITIONS FOR ROOTING
Cuttings given less than optimal rooting conditions will waste energy. The result will be inferior root systems. To produce its own store of carbohydrates a plant needs the raw materials of light, water, carbon dioxide and oxygen.
LIGHT
Growers should regulate the propagation house so that the cuttings are not under direct sunlight. The effect of direct sunlight and the resultant heat will cause stress to the cuttings. Light is necessary for photosynthesis. Un-rooted cuttings are not able to engage in much photosynthesis; a small amount of light, 100-125 um PAR light, during the rooting process is sufficient. It is important at this stage is to provide a long period of light. A photo-period of 16-18 hours is adequate. Artificial lights are useful to extend natural daylight hours. Natural lighting or artificial lights may cause a rise in ambient temperature. Growers must control the growing area to avoid high temperatures from light sources.
WATER CONTENT OF THE MEDIA
A plant must have a good root system in order for it to absorb water. Water is crucial while the cuttings begin to form roots. If the substrate that is too dry, the plant will have cell death. Dead cells increase the risk of rot. A very dry substrate encourages callus formation. Although many believe that callus is beneficial for root formation, this is not true. The callus hinders and slows root formation. Growers measure how much moisture in the soil with a tensiometer. For best rooting, the meter should display a reading between moist and wet. Another way is to weigh the trays regularly. By trial, the growers determine if the trays have the proper weight for the “the proper moisture level,” then provide water based on these observations.
CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2) IN AIR & OXYGEN IN MEDIA
Photosynthesis is important for cuttings. Photosynthesis requires sufficient carbon dioxide (CO2), light, and water. An advantage of an increased level of CO2 in the air is that it reduces the transpiration, loss of water, through the plant. Cuttings in an environment with sufficient light and an increased CO2 level (800-1000 ppm) will form better roots. CO2 can be controlled using special generators. Oxygen is necessary for cell division and crucial for root formation. Growers must stick the cuttings into a substrate that has a structure which is sufficiently open to allow air, containing oxygen, to reach the developing roots. Dense media inhibits oxygen stimulation.
AIR CIRCULATION & TEMPERATURE CONTROL
Good air circulation is necessary when rooting un-rooted cuttings. Shade to approximately 50% light conditions, or as required, to reduce temperature during high heat periods.
TEMPERATURE
• Soil Temperature
Soil temperature has a direct influence on the speed of rooting. A soil temperature ranging between 68-77°F is ideal during the initial rooting stage. After this initial stage, growers can allow the temperature to drop a few degrees.
• Air Temperature
To prevent excess transpiration, controlling the temperature is important. To reduce aerial growth, air temperature should be a bit lower than soil temperature. The cuttings should be encouraged to use their energy mainly for developing roots. Above ground growth will come later.
• Light and Temperature Relationship
During the winter, when there is a low level of natural light, with no artificial lights, use a lower temperature. For example, cuttings will die if kept at temperatures near 74°F, short day and low light levels. Rooting activity in the soil will outpace its ability to do photosynthesis induced by the light.
FERTILIZATION
Follow fertilizer label instructions. Growers should fertilize un-rooted cuttings during propagation. Apply a complete N-P-K fertilizer. For many plants, use a fertilizer containing 300 ppm of nitrogen approximately two to three times a week. Start on the third day after sticking or when the callus is starting to form. Quality can suffer if the roots become rootbound. Fertilize the cuttings when planting. Apply liquid fertilizer solutions at a rate of 300 to 400 ppm immediately after planting.
INSECT AND DISEASE CONTROL
Good cultural practices and clean, well-ventilated growing space are your best defense against disease. Botrytis, the chief fungal threat, thrives in a moist, stagnant environment. Good air circulation and adequate light will reduce its harmful effects. Apply appropriate fungicides, insecticides, and other control products following label instructions.
HUMIDITY
Un-rooted cuttings must receive the highest amount of humidity. Temperature influences the ambient humidity. When the first roots appear, the humidity can be lowered; the rooted cuttings can adapt to the surroundings better.
MISTING GUIDELINES
Apply mist immediately and frequently to maintain turgidity and minimize wilting while roots develop. Extended days of high humidity may cause some plant cuttings to form aerial roots.
SELECT THE BEST POSSIBLE STOCK PLANTS
The best stock plants produce the best cuttings used for propagation. During each growing cycle, growers must select plants that exhibit the best growth characteristics; these are selected as ‘stock plants’. ‘Off-shore’ cuttings are from selected and maintained stock plants. The same selection process can be done at one’s own growing facility.
JUVENILE CUTTINGS
Cuttings taken from the newer juvenile parts of many plants root better than older mature parts. Shoots at the tops of the plant are physiologically older (more mature) than the shoots at the bottom of the plant (more juvenile). The top shoots have the characteristics of the more mature parts of the plant from which they originate. Juvenile cuttings require lower plant rooting hormone rates compared to the ‘older’ cuttings.
To maintain juvenality, annual and perennial cuttings should be taken from young stock plants. These stock plants, often a half year old, are used to produce the next generation stock plants from current cuttings. For woody plants ‘hedging’ can be done.
THE 'BEST' TIME TO TAKE CUTTINGS
Some plants, especially those which go dormant, have different rooting ability at different times of the year. Timing of a few weeks in taking of cuttings may have success or failure. After maturing to a certain age, often years, cuttings taken from certain plants may not be able to produce roots.
TYPICAL TIMING TO TAKE CUTTINGS
• Herbaceous cuttings from greenhouse crops, annual and tropical plants: anytime.
• Deciduous and evergreen plant cuttings: early summer through early fall.
• Dormant hardwood cuttings: fall or winter.
PREPARATION AND CARE OF CUTTINGS
Before taking cuttings, stock plants must be provided with good light and fertilization. This will boost stored carbohydrates used to feed the newly formed roots.
• Herbaceous plant cuttings should be treated and stuck soon after being taken. To prevent heat damage, in hot climates cuttings are put in coolers soon after being cut. Perennial and annual cutting suppliers may have offshore stock plant nurseries. When shipped, cuttings from these nurseries are kept chilled during transit using special cartons that protect the cuttings from temperature variation. The cuttings are packed in plastic bags to assure continued hydration. Shipping time is kept short, assuring prompt arrival at the rooting facility. Certain plants do not ship well; to assure propagation success, those stock plants should be grown near the rooting faculty.
• Winter woody cuttings taken in the fall can be treated with rooting hormones, kept in plastic, stored in cold storage, then planted-out in the spring.
• Growers usually take plant shoot cuttings from plant growth of the current growing season. Generally, thin cuttings will root more easily than thick cuttings. No one cutting type is useful to propagate all plants.
TYPES OF CUTTINGS
STEM CUTTINGS
‘Stem cuttings’ are the out-growing stems, mature sprouts or tip cuttings. Growers may take many types of stem cuttings.
• SOFTWOOD & HERBACEOUS CUTTINGS:
these are the fast growing soft tips of stems, usually taken in the spring. Herbaceous cuttings, sometimes called ‘tip cuttings’ or ‘shoot cuttings’, are taken from the young soft tips of stems.
Softwood and Herbaceous cuttings have many variations. Cuttings taken from annuals, herbaceous perennials, tropical plants and house plants are easier to propagate from cuttings than more hardened cuttings.
• HARDWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are taken from the fully mature stems of deciduous shrubs and trees. Stock plants for these cuttings require careful selection and preparation before growers take the cuttings. Pruning of the stock plants allow them to produce new growth early in the growing season. The new growth can produce roots. Growers take these cuttings at the end of the growing season or during the dormant season.
• GREENWOOD CUTTINGS:
these are the soft tips or stems after the spring growth has slowed. The stem is harder and woodier than the soft wood cutting.
• SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS:
these are taken during the late summer after the annual growth has slowed. The stem is harder than softwood or green wood cuttings.
Other Types of Cuttings
SCION CUTTINGS
‘Scion cuttings’ are dormant 'ligneous' woody twigs.
EYE CUTTINGS
‘Eye cuttings’ are pieces of foliated or defoliated stalks with one or more eyes.
ROOT CUTTINGS
‘Root cuttings’ are parts of the root, usually annual. Growers take these from certain plants which have the capacity to regenerate stems from root parts.
LEAF CUTTINGS
‘Leaf cuttings’ are parts of the leaf. New roots develop at the base or veins of the cutting. Dry powder rooting hormones are usually used to treat these cuttings.
HANDLING UN-ROOTED CUTTIGS
• After taking cuttings, stick as soon as possible.
• USE PLANT ROOTING HORMONES.
• Do inspection.
• Reduce wilting during rooting.
• Maintain the appropriate environmental controls.
• Practice good sanitation.
HANDLING OFF-SHORE UN-ROOTED CUTTINGS
After receiving cuttings from off-shore sources, open all boxes immediately. Inspect the un-rooted cuttings for damage, dehydration, heat or freeze damage, breakage or rot. Report any missing items or damaged cuttings to the vendor. Do not allow the boxes to remain in sunny or hot places, or below freezing temperatures. Growers should stick the un-rooted cuttings into pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. If it not possible to stick the un-rooted cuttings immediately they can be held for several days in a cooler between 35-45°F. The cuttings will deteriorate rapidly at warm temperatures.
WOUNDING
• Hardwood cuttings may root better if a 1/2 to 3/4 inch long notch, “wound,” is made at the basal end before applying the plant rooting hormone.
• Tropical and other herbaceous cuttings are not 'wounded'.
MEDIA
Stick cuttings as soon as possible after either taking cuttings or receiving off-shore cuttings. Use pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. ‘Airy’ media allows oxygen to stimulate root growth. (See page 45 for notes.)
STICKING DEPTH
Stick the cuttings just deep enough that the medium anchors them. Thin cutting may be stuck 1/4-1/2 inch deep.
TRAY SIZE AND DIRECT STICKING
Tray sizes range from 36 to 128 cell. Larger cells are used for cuttings scheduled to remain in the starting tray longer. Un-rooted cuttings can also direct stick in the finishing container or sometimes beds.
ROOTING SOLUTIONS AND ROOTING POWDERS
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts & Rhizopon AA dry powder rooting hormones are applied to cuttings from ‘easy-to-root’ to ‘difficult-to-root’. Treated cuttings quickly form new uniform roots, strong root mass and homogenous propagation crops.
CONTROL OF THE GROWING AREA
Raising selected stock plants under controlled conditions is important. When growers give their stock plants proper care, the plants will produce the best cuttings. ‘Just taking’ cuttings from random ‘field plants’ leads to marginal results. The same way, control of the propagation house is equally important to the propagation of new plants.
Before production, always perform trials on selected plants, within the same facility.
INSPECTION
Growers must inspect their crops regularly to observe both intended and undesired results. Records should be kept that include information of the methods, materials, and plants used, and the quality of stock plants and cuttings.
ROOTED CUTTING CARE
Early stage treatment of the cutting crop is essential to produce high quality finished plants. Do not allow the rooted cuttings to become over-rooted, dried-out, crowded or under-fertilized. These situations may reduce plant growth.
PROVIDING THE BEST POSSIBLE CONDITIONS FOR ROOTING
Cuttings given less than optimal rooting conditions will waste energy. The result will be inferior root systems. To produce its own store of carbohydrates a plant needs the raw materials of light, water, carbon dioxide and oxygen.
LIGHT
Growers should regulate the propagation house so that the cuttings are not under direct sunlight. The effect of direct sunlight and the resultant heat will cause stress to the cuttings. Light is necessary for photosynthesis. Un-rooted cuttings are not able to engage in much photosynthesis; a small amount of light, 100-125 um PAR light, during the rooting process is sufficient. It is important at this stage is to provide a long period of light. A photo-period of 16-18 hours is adequate. Artificial lights are useful to extend natural daylight hours. Natural lighting or artificial lights may cause a rise in ambient temperature. Growers must control the growing area to avoid high temperatures from light sources.
WATER CONTENT OF THE MEDIA
A plant must have a good root system in order for it to absorb water. Water is crucial while the cuttings begin to form roots. If the substrate that is too dry, the plant will have cell death. Dead cells increase the risk of rot. A very dry substrate encourages callus formation. Although many believe that callus is beneficial for root formation, this is not true. The callus hinders and slows root formation. Growers measure how much moisture in the soil with a tensiometer. For best rooting, the meter should display a reading between moist and wet. Another way is to weigh the trays regularly. By trial, the growers determine if the trays have the proper weight for the “the proper moisture level,” then provide water based on these observations.
CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2) IN AIR & OXYGEN IN MEDIA
Photosynthesis is important for cuttings. Photosynthesis requires sufficient carbon dioxide (CO2), light, and water. An advantage of an increased level of CO2 in the air is that it reduces the transpiration, loss of water, through the plant. Cuttings in an environment with sufficient light and an increased CO2 level (800-1000 ppm) will form better roots. CO2 can be controlled using special generators. Oxygen is necessary for cell division and crucial for root formation. Growers must stick the cuttings into a substrate that has a structure which is sufficiently open to allow air, containing oxygen, to reach the developing roots. Dense media inhibits oxygen stimulation.
AIR CIRCULATION & TEMPERATURE CONTROL
Good air circulation is necessary when rooting un-rooted cuttings. Shade to approximately 50% light conditions, or as required, to reduce temperature during high heat periods.
TEMPERATURE
• Soil Temperature
Soil temperature has a direct influence on the speed of rooting. A soil temperature ranging between 68-77°F is ideal during the initial rooting stage. After this initial stage, growers can allow the temperature to drop a few degrees.
• Air Temperature
To prevent excess transpiration, controlling the temperature is important. To reduce aerial growth, air temperature should be a bit lower than soil temperature. The cuttings should be encouraged to use their energy mainly for developing roots. Above ground growth will come later.
• Light and Temperature Relationship
During the winter, when there is a low level of natural light, with no artificial lights, use a lower temperature. For example, cuttings will die if kept at temperatures near 74°F, short day and low light levels. Rooting activity in the soil will outpace its ability to do photosynthesis induced by the light.
FERTILIZATION
Follow fertilizer label instructions. Growers should fertilize un-rooted cuttings during propagation. Apply a complete N-P-K fertilizer. For many plants, use a fertilizer containing 300 ppm of nitrogen approximately two to three times a week. Start on the third day after sticking or when the callus is starting to form. Quality can suffer if the roots become rootbound. Fertilize the cuttings when planting. Apply liquid fertilizer solutions at a rate of 300 to 400 ppm immediately after planting.
INSECT AND DISEASE CONTROL
Good cultural practices and clean, well-ventilated growing space are your best defense against disease. Botrytis, the chief fungal threat, thrives in a moist, stagnant environment. Good air circulation and adequate light will reduce its harmful effects. Apply appropriate fungicides, insecticides, and other control products following label instructions.
HUMIDITY
Un-rooted cuttings must receive the highest amount of humidity. Temperature influences the ambient humidity. When the first roots appear, the humidity can be lowered; the rooted cuttings can adapt to the surroundings better.
MISTING GUIDELINES
Apply mist immediately and frequently to maintain turgidity and minimize wilting while roots develop. Extended days of high humidity may cause some plant cuttings to form aerial roots.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月13日
What are the origins of plant rooting hormones
Since Medieval times plant growers have known that many plants can be propagated from cuttings. The new plants have the same characteristics as the parent plant. Some cuttings root easily, some with difficulty and some never on their own.
In the 1930's horticultural researchers isolated the plant growth regulators which promote rooting of cuttings and improve the root mass of rooted plants. These regulators even produce rooting of some cuttings which do not self root. In 1939, using these revolutionary regulators, Dutch scientists developed rooting products and techniques now used worldwide. The manufacturer, Rhizopon b.v., is the world's largest company solely devoted to plant rooting products and technology.
Select cuttings to improve rooting success
Why do cuttings from the same parent plant root while others do not?
What is the 'best' time to take cuttings?
Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing.
When taking shoot cuttings from the same plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current year shoots may root differently from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have had less sunlight then upper shoots; the upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. In general, younger shoots need less stimulation to root than older shoots and require a more stable propagation environment. Use a lower Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
It is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation, the origin of the cuttings, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and sticking, the date taken, the rooting method used and concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts, the conditions at the time cuttings take root, and the relative quality of the roots.
Difficult cuttings CAN be rooted
How can I increase the rooting yield of difficult to root hardwood cuttings?
How do I control the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts to increase yield?
Some cuttings root with difficulty. Lacking success, some growers erroneously increase the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts.
An increased concentration may inhibit root promotion. Try a LOW concentration of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt with an INCREASED basal end immersion time. Increased immersion time allows the cutting to absorb the active ingredients. A low concentration is also economical.
Use the IMMERSE METHOD by immersing the basal end of cuttings approximately 1" into solution for 4-12 hours.
Root cuttings by Quick Dip
How do I use the QUICK DIP METHOD to root herbaceous or woody cuttings?
The QUICK DIP METHOD is a fast treatment method to root cuttings.
Quickly immerse the basal end of the cutting approximately 1" into solution.
Plant immediately. Use rates as suggested on the plant list.
Use fertilizers and fungicides with care
Can I use fertilizers or fungicides with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts do not contain fertilizers or fungicides. Apply these materials based upon plant requirements. When rooting cuttings do not fertilize until after root initiation. Fertilizer salts may dehydrate the cutting. When transplanting you can apply or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts with fertilizer at the same time. Fungicides may inhibit root formation by stressing plant tissue and slowing rooting and plant growth. Use fungicides only as required.
Two easy ways to produce symmetric roots
I use the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD to root herbaceous cuttings such as chrysanthemum. How do I know how much solution to spray?
What is the difference in performance between the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD and TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD?
Using either the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® or TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD, Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts develop symmetric roots on herbaceous plant cuttings. The active ingredients are absorbed into the leaves and stems then transported to the basal end where it induces roots.
When using the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD first plant the cuttings. Spray the leaves with solution until the liquid drips down into the media near the basal end. Use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts at rates suggested on the plant list. For broad leaf cuttings it might be easier to use the TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD. The cutting is immersed a few seconds in the solution. Plant immediately.
Transplants have improved success. Roses have higher flower yield
How do I improve transplanting of bare root plants, plugs, and plants in media?
How many times should I treat plants with Rhizopon or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
How do I increase flower yield when transplanting young rose bushes?
How can I improve transplant success of Christmas trees? I want to improve our reforestation program which requires that conservation plants recover quickly.
Treatment with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts help the rooted plants regenerate roots rapidly so to rapidly absorb water and nutrients. The plants develop a strong early root mass before sprout initiation. Select the method of application based upon practical needs. Treat once at planting time.
For plants in plug or root ball, spray or dip with solution until the media is saturated. For herbaceous plants use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA); for woody plants use about twice this rate.
After treating the roots optionally spray the leaves and stems lightly with a solution using Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA);
Using IMMERSION ABSORPTION, trees, shrubs, and other plants planted in the field, nursery bed, or greenhouse have less transplant shock and stress. Treated young rose bush transplants have earlier and increased flower yield.
Product Selection to make Fresh Rooting Solutions
HORTUS IBA WATER SOLUBLE SALTS
Use the easy to measure powder with water to make your own freshest solutions in any concentration. You can make solutions to over 100,000 ppm IBA active ingredients. The Salts are an economical for making large solution volumes. Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts is an easier to use and registered replacement technical IBA and K-IBA.
These plant rooting products are completely free of potentially phyto-toxic and flammable alcohol. You make solutions from very dilute to extremely concentrated. The solutions are odorless. Both are US EPA registered with WPS Zero Hour REI. Growers can apply the products and remain in the growing area. There is minimum PPE with no notification requirement.
Since Medieval times plant growers have known that many plants can be propagated from cuttings. The new plants have the same characteristics as the parent plant. Some cuttings root easily, some with difficulty and some never on their own.
In the 1930's horticultural researchers isolated the plant growth regulators which promote rooting of cuttings and improve the root mass of rooted plants. These regulators even produce rooting of some cuttings which do not self root. In 1939, using these revolutionary regulators, Dutch scientists developed rooting products and techniques now used worldwide. The manufacturer, Rhizopon b.v., is the world's largest company solely devoted to plant rooting products and technology.
Select cuttings to improve rooting success
Why do cuttings from the same parent plant root while others do not?
What is the 'best' time to take cuttings?
Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing.
When taking shoot cuttings from the same plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current year shoots may root differently from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have had less sunlight then upper shoots; the upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. In general, younger shoots need less stimulation to root than older shoots and require a more stable propagation environment. Use a lower Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
It is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation, the origin of the cuttings, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and sticking, the date taken, the rooting method used and concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts, the conditions at the time cuttings take root, and the relative quality of the roots.
Difficult cuttings CAN be rooted
How can I increase the rooting yield of difficult to root hardwood cuttings?
How do I control the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts to increase yield?
Some cuttings root with difficulty. Lacking success, some growers erroneously increase the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts.
An increased concentration may inhibit root promotion. Try a LOW concentration of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt with an INCREASED basal end immersion time. Increased immersion time allows the cutting to absorb the active ingredients. A low concentration is also economical.
Use the IMMERSE METHOD by immersing the basal end of cuttings approximately 1" into solution for 4-12 hours.
Root cuttings by Quick Dip
How do I use the QUICK DIP METHOD to root herbaceous or woody cuttings?
The QUICK DIP METHOD is a fast treatment method to root cuttings.
Quickly immerse the basal end of the cutting approximately 1" into solution.
Plant immediately. Use rates as suggested on the plant list.
Use fertilizers and fungicides with care
Can I use fertilizers or fungicides with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts do not contain fertilizers or fungicides. Apply these materials based upon plant requirements. When rooting cuttings do not fertilize until after root initiation. Fertilizer salts may dehydrate the cutting. When transplanting you can apply or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts with fertilizer at the same time. Fungicides may inhibit root formation by stressing plant tissue and slowing rooting and plant growth. Use fungicides only as required.
Two easy ways to produce symmetric roots
I use the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD to root herbaceous cuttings such as chrysanthemum. How do I know how much solution to spray?
What is the difference in performance between the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD and TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD?
Using either the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® or TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD, Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts develop symmetric roots on herbaceous plant cuttings. The active ingredients are absorbed into the leaves and stems then transported to the basal end where it induces roots.
When using the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD first plant the cuttings. Spray the leaves with solution until the liquid drips down into the media near the basal end. Use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts at rates suggested on the plant list. For broad leaf cuttings it might be easier to use the TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD. The cutting is immersed a few seconds in the solution. Plant immediately.
Transplants have improved success. Roses have higher flower yield
How do I improve transplanting of bare root plants, plugs, and plants in media?
How many times should I treat plants with Rhizopon or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
How do I increase flower yield when transplanting young rose bushes?
How can I improve transplant success of Christmas trees? I want to improve our reforestation program which requires that conservation plants recover quickly.
Treatment with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts help the rooted plants regenerate roots rapidly so to rapidly absorb water and nutrients. The plants develop a strong early root mass before sprout initiation. Select the method of application based upon practical needs. Treat once at planting time.
For plants in plug or root ball, spray or dip with solution until the media is saturated. For herbaceous plants use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA); for woody plants use about twice this rate.
After treating the roots optionally spray the leaves and stems lightly with a solution using Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA);
Using IMMERSION ABSORPTION, trees, shrubs, and other plants planted in the field, nursery bed, or greenhouse have less transplant shock and stress. Treated young rose bush transplants have earlier and increased flower yield.
Product Selection to make Fresh Rooting Solutions
HORTUS IBA WATER SOLUBLE SALTS
Use the easy to measure powder with water to make your own freshest solutions in any concentration. You can make solutions to over 100,000 ppm IBA active ingredients. The Salts are an economical for making large solution volumes. Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts is an easier to use and registered replacement technical IBA and K-IBA.
These plant rooting products are completely free of potentially phyto-toxic and flammable alcohol. You make solutions from very dilute to extremely concentrated. The solutions are odorless. Both are US EPA registered with WPS Zero Hour REI. Growers can apply the products and remain in the growing area. There is minimum PPE with no notification requirement.
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