文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月07日
Distribution and habitat: Crassula ovata is native to South Africa where it grows on rocky hillsides under the blazing sun. Rain there is infrequent and usually occurs during the winter months. Consequently, Crassula ovata plants flower during the late winter.
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月07日
Distribution and habitat: Sansevieria cylindrica is a succulent plant native to Angola. It is an evergreen perennial plant forming dense stands, spreading by creeping rhizome, which is sometimes above ground, sometimes underground. These plants in the wild frequently form diffuse colonies.
Description: Sansevieria cylindrica has striped, tubular leaves that are smooth and a green-gray colour with a dark-green striped pattern or just dark green colour in some cases. The leaves have pointed tips. A single leaf is about 3cm (1 inch) thick and grows to a height between 1 and 2m (3-7 feet). The Sansevieria cylindrica grows fan-shaped from underground rhizomes, its stiff leaves rising from a basal rosette. Plants are rigid, ribbed lengthwise and dark green cross-banded with grey-green when young. Long flower spikes may appear erratically on mature plants, arising from the base of the spears shaped leaves. The 3cm (1 inch) greenish-white tubular flowers are tinged with pink growing in clusters on an erect flower spike. Sansevieria cylindrica tends to bloom more readily from a young age than other varieties. These flowers are not particularly showy, but they are nicely fragrant. Occasionally flowers will be followed by spherical orange-red berries to about 1cm (0.4 inch) in diameter.
These interesting plants are one of the most unusual plants. The plant cylindrical spears that spring from the sandy soil can be braided or left in their natural fan shape. Best of all, they can be almost ignored and the plant will thrive.
Sansevieria cylindrica are extremely long lived plants.
Houseplant care: Sansevieria cylindrica is popular as an ornamental plant as it is easy to culture and take care of in a home. Truly, they thrive on neglect. One exception to this rule: their pots must be well drained.
Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to keep them dust-free. Every leaf is tipped with narrow awl-shaped point and care should be taken not to damage it; a leaf with a broken tip will stop growing.
The growth is relatively slow and plants last for many years.
Light: Sansevieria cylindrica likes bright light and can stand plenty of direct sunlight. They will tolerate a certain amount of shade – at a slight shaded window – without detriment to their growth, but will virtually stop growing if they are forced to live in poor light for any length of time. But, they will survive in poor light.
When growing in high light, the leaves will grow more upright, desired look for a nice container plant.
Temperature: As native of the tropics, these plants thrive in average to warm room temperatures; from 18-26°C (65-79°F) suits them ideally. It will tolerate fluctuating temperatures, but never subject them to temperatures below 13°C (55°F).
Sansevieria cylindrica will tolerate dry air, but keep it away from air vents or drafts. Average room humidity will be satisfactory for this plant.
Watering: During the active growth period water only moderately, giving enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout at each watering, but allowing the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out before watering again.
During the rest period allow at least half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Overwatering leads to rot and cause the leaves to topple over at the point where they join the rootstock. Water the soil, taking care not to get water on the leaves, which will cause them to rot. If the leaves turn yellow or get soft and mushy at their base, the plant is overwatered. Empty the plant saucers after watering, to avoid that stagnant water to damage the roots.
The species is drought-tolerant and grown indoors it needs water only about once every other week during the active growing season.
Feeding: Do not over-fertilise these plants. Apply a liquid fertiliser about once a month to all plants during the active growth period, but only at half strength.
Potting and repotting: Repot in spring, only when plants get crowded and need dividing. Sansevieria cylindrica do not mind cramped root conditions and so can be left undisturbed for several years. Fleshy, usually cream-coloured roots will often appear on the surface of the potting mixture, but these plants do not really need repotting until they crack their pots. Ideally, the plants should be moved on shortly before reaching this stage, when the leaves occupy most of the pot surface. Keep the rosette of the leaves at soil level. Use a wide, heavy container to prevent toppling as this tall plant tend to be top-heavy. Repotting is best done in early spring.
In years when plants are not repotted, top-dress them with fresh potting mixture, first scraping away some of the loose old mixture carefully so as not to do any damage to the near surface roots.
For open, quick drainage add one-third coarse sand to a soil-based potting mixture and put plenty of clay-pot fragments or other drainage material into the bottom of the pot.
Gardening: Sansevieria cylindrica can be grown in the garden in mild to tropical climates and it is not fussy. When planting in ground space plants to allow clumps to form and develop properly. If planted too tightly there will not be enough room for root expansion and plants will not reach their full height and bloom potential.
In very cold zones a containerized Sansevieria can be brought inside for the winter months, when the temperatures drops below 13°C (55°F). Plants that have been living in the shade should not be moved to a sunny position without gradual acclimatization; sudden prolonged exposure to sunlight can result in leaf burn.
Position: It can be grown outdoors in partial shade. This plant needs only partial sunlight, avoiding midday direct sunshine which could cause unaesthetic burnings on the foliage.
Soil: Sansevieria cylindrica needs good drainage. Plant in ground in well drained, sandy soil enriched with peaty compost.
Irrigation: Sansevieria cylindrica only needs watering about once or twice a month during the warmer season and it should be kept drier in winter.
This plant is very drought resistant. Do not over-water it, especially in winter.
Fertilising: Mixing a small amount of slow time release fertiliser into the lower level of the soil before planting speeds up the rate of growth. However, fertiliser can be detrimental to Sansevieria cylindrica and too much can kill the plant. Use a cactus fertiliser or slow time release fertiliser once a month.
These plants are light feeders, however unfertilized they will tend to grow very slow. Do not overfertilise them. Always, less is better than too much fertiliser for these plants.
Propagation: Sansevieria cylindrica can be propagated by dividing up overcrowded clumps of leaves. Detach clusters of leaves from rootstock with a sharp knife when the leaves are 15cm (6 inch) long. Most clusters will have some roots attached and can be planted directly in the normal potting mixture; those without roots will root quickly in a mixture of peat moss and sand.
Sever suckers from the parent can be done when two or there leaves have been formed.
Also, these plants can be propagated by leaf cuttings. Slice leaves crosswise into 5cm (2 inch) long pieces, remembering which is the top and which is the bottom because cuttings must be planted right end up. Push three or four leaf sections about 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) into a moistened mixture of peat moss and sand in an 8cm (3 inch) pot, place them in bright light and water sparingly, just enough to make the potting mixture barely moist. Eventually, rhizomes will be produced, but it is a slow process.
Problems: Any problems with growing Sansevieria cylindrica are usually related to watering. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. If in doubt, keep it on the dry side. The only things that will kill this plant is soggy soil and prolonged exposure to cold temperatures.
Rotting at the base with leaves yellowing and drying back is normally due to overwatering.
Treatment: If part of the plant is still healthy, cut this away, repot and keep it warm and dry.
Curling leaves are the result of underwatering in summer.
Keep a careful watch for vine weevils which often eat pieces from the edges of leaves, causing irremediable damage.
Treatment: Pick up and destroy adults. Plants with badly damaged roots cannot usually be saved. Immediately on sighting an adult weevil, drench the potting mixture with a suitable pesticide.
Note: Watch out for the pointed tips of Sansevieria cylindrica cylindrical leaves as they are sharp.
Uses and display: Sansevieria cylindrica are a tall growing kinds very decorative in grouping, where they can be used to provide compact vertical contrast with different kinds of lower growing bushy or rosette-shaped plants. Its easy-going nature and tolerance of dry air and soil also make it a reliable office plant. The appearance of these plants is greatly enhanced by an attractive pottery container.
This plant can be used with equal effectiveness as an accent plant or in mass in planters or beds.
Sansevieria use the crassulacean acid metabolism process, which absorbs carbon dioxide and releases oxygen at night. This purportedly makes them suitable bedroom plants. However, since the leaves are potentially poisonous if ingested, Sansevieria is not usually recommended for children’s bedrooms.
Sansevieria species are believed to act as good air purifiers by removing toxins (such as formaldehyde, xylene and toluene) from the air, thereby gaining a reputation as a good cure for sick building syndrome.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Shape – upright
Height: 60-90cm (24.36 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13oC max 27oC (55-80oF)
Temperature in active growth period – min 13oC max 27oC (55-80oF)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 11
Description: Sansevieria cylindrica has striped, tubular leaves that are smooth and a green-gray colour with a dark-green striped pattern or just dark green colour in some cases. The leaves have pointed tips. A single leaf is about 3cm (1 inch) thick and grows to a height between 1 and 2m (3-7 feet). The Sansevieria cylindrica grows fan-shaped from underground rhizomes, its stiff leaves rising from a basal rosette. Plants are rigid, ribbed lengthwise and dark green cross-banded with grey-green when young. Long flower spikes may appear erratically on mature plants, arising from the base of the spears shaped leaves. The 3cm (1 inch) greenish-white tubular flowers are tinged with pink growing in clusters on an erect flower spike. Sansevieria cylindrica tends to bloom more readily from a young age than other varieties. These flowers are not particularly showy, but they are nicely fragrant. Occasionally flowers will be followed by spherical orange-red berries to about 1cm (0.4 inch) in diameter.
These interesting plants are one of the most unusual plants. The plant cylindrical spears that spring from the sandy soil can be braided or left in their natural fan shape. Best of all, they can be almost ignored and the plant will thrive.
Sansevieria cylindrica are extremely long lived plants.
Houseplant care: Sansevieria cylindrica is popular as an ornamental plant as it is easy to culture and take care of in a home. Truly, they thrive on neglect. One exception to this rule: their pots must be well drained.
Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to keep them dust-free. Every leaf is tipped with narrow awl-shaped point and care should be taken not to damage it; a leaf with a broken tip will stop growing.
The growth is relatively slow and plants last for many years.
Light: Sansevieria cylindrica likes bright light and can stand plenty of direct sunlight. They will tolerate a certain amount of shade – at a slight shaded window – without detriment to their growth, but will virtually stop growing if they are forced to live in poor light for any length of time. But, they will survive in poor light.
When growing in high light, the leaves will grow more upright, desired look for a nice container plant.
Temperature: As native of the tropics, these plants thrive in average to warm room temperatures; from 18-26°C (65-79°F) suits them ideally. It will tolerate fluctuating temperatures, but never subject them to temperatures below 13°C (55°F).
Sansevieria cylindrica will tolerate dry air, but keep it away from air vents or drafts. Average room humidity will be satisfactory for this plant.
Watering: During the active growth period water only moderately, giving enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout at each watering, but allowing the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out before watering again.
During the rest period allow at least half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Overwatering leads to rot and cause the leaves to topple over at the point where they join the rootstock. Water the soil, taking care not to get water on the leaves, which will cause them to rot. If the leaves turn yellow or get soft and mushy at their base, the plant is overwatered. Empty the plant saucers after watering, to avoid that stagnant water to damage the roots.
The species is drought-tolerant and grown indoors it needs water only about once every other week during the active growing season.
Feeding: Do not over-fertilise these plants. Apply a liquid fertiliser about once a month to all plants during the active growth period, but only at half strength.
Potting and repotting: Repot in spring, only when plants get crowded and need dividing. Sansevieria cylindrica do not mind cramped root conditions and so can be left undisturbed for several years. Fleshy, usually cream-coloured roots will often appear on the surface of the potting mixture, but these plants do not really need repotting until they crack their pots. Ideally, the plants should be moved on shortly before reaching this stage, when the leaves occupy most of the pot surface. Keep the rosette of the leaves at soil level. Use a wide, heavy container to prevent toppling as this tall plant tend to be top-heavy. Repotting is best done in early spring.
In years when plants are not repotted, top-dress them with fresh potting mixture, first scraping away some of the loose old mixture carefully so as not to do any damage to the near surface roots.
For open, quick drainage add one-third coarse sand to a soil-based potting mixture and put plenty of clay-pot fragments or other drainage material into the bottom of the pot.
Gardening: Sansevieria cylindrica can be grown in the garden in mild to tropical climates and it is not fussy. When planting in ground space plants to allow clumps to form and develop properly. If planted too tightly there will not be enough room for root expansion and plants will not reach their full height and bloom potential.
In very cold zones a containerized Sansevieria can be brought inside for the winter months, when the temperatures drops below 13°C (55°F). Plants that have been living in the shade should not be moved to a sunny position without gradual acclimatization; sudden prolonged exposure to sunlight can result in leaf burn.
Position: It can be grown outdoors in partial shade. This plant needs only partial sunlight, avoiding midday direct sunshine which could cause unaesthetic burnings on the foliage.
Soil: Sansevieria cylindrica needs good drainage. Plant in ground in well drained, sandy soil enriched with peaty compost.
Irrigation: Sansevieria cylindrica only needs watering about once or twice a month during the warmer season and it should be kept drier in winter.
This plant is very drought resistant. Do not over-water it, especially in winter.
Fertilising: Mixing a small amount of slow time release fertiliser into the lower level of the soil before planting speeds up the rate of growth. However, fertiliser can be detrimental to Sansevieria cylindrica and too much can kill the plant. Use a cactus fertiliser or slow time release fertiliser once a month.
These plants are light feeders, however unfertilized they will tend to grow very slow. Do not overfertilise them. Always, less is better than too much fertiliser for these plants.
Propagation: Sansevieria cylindrica can be propagated by dividing up overcrowded clumps of leaves. Detach clusters of leaves from rootstock with a sharp knife when the leaves are 15cm (6 inch) long. Most clusters will have some roots attached and can be planted directly in the normal potting mixture; those without roots will root quickly in a mixture of peat moss and sand.
Sever suckers from the parent can be done when two or there leaves have been formed.
Also, these plants can be propagated by leaf cuttings. Slice leaves crosswise into 5cm (2 inch) long pieces, remembering which is the top and which is the bottom because cuttings must be planted right end up. Push three or four leaf sections about 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) into a moistened mixture of peat moss and sand in an 8cm (3 inch) pot, place them in bright light and water sparingly, just enough to make the potting mixture barely moist. Eventually, rhizomes will be produced, but it is a slow process.
Problems: Any problems with growing Sansevieria cylindrica are usually related to watering. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. If in doubt, keep it on the dry side. The only things that will kill this plant is soggy soil and prolonged exposure to cold temperatures.
Rotting at the base with leaves yellowing and drying back is normally due to overwatering.
Treatment: If part of the plant is still healthy, cut this away, repot and keep it warm and dry.
Curling leaves are the result of underwatering in summer.
Keep a careful watch for vine weevils which often eat pieces from the edges of leaves, causing irremediable damage.
Treatment: Pick up and destroy adults. Plants with badly damaged roots cannot usually be saved. Immediately on sighting an adult weevil, drench the potting mixture with a suitable pesticide.
Note: Watch out for the pointed tips of Sansevieria cylindrica cylindrical leaves as they are sharp.
Uses and display: Sansevieria cylindrica are a tall growing kinds very decorative in grouping, where they can be used to provide compact vertical contrast with different kinds of lower growing bushy or rosette-shaped plants. Its easy-going nature and tolerance of dry air and soil also make it a reliable office plant. The appearance of these plants is greatly enhanced by an attractive pottery container.
This plant can be used with equal effectiveness as an accent plant or in mass in planters or beds.
Sansevieria use the crassulacean acid metabolism process, which absorbs carbon dioxide and releases oxygen at night. This purportedly makes them suitable bedroom plants. However, since the leaves are potentially poisonous if ingested, Sansevieria is not usually recommended for children’s bedrooms.
Sansevieria species are believed to act as good air purifiers by removing toxins (such as formaldehyde, xylene and toluene) from the air, thereby gaining a reputation as a good cure for sick building syndrome.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Shape – upright
Height: 60-90cm (24.36 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13oC max 27oC (55-80oF)
Temperature in active growth period – min 13oC max 27oC (55-80oF)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 11
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月04日
Distribution and habitat: Crassula ovata is native to South Africa where it grows on rocky hillsides under the blazing sun. Rain there is infrequent and usually occurs during the winter months. Consequently, Crassula ovata plants flower during the late winter.
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月02日
Distribution and habitat: Aloe aristata is a species of evergreen flowering perennial plant in the subfamily Asphodelaceae. It is native to mountains grassland of South Africa and is therefore best suited to warm, dry conditions. These plants can be found growing up to 2300m (7500 feet) above sea level in their natural habitat and is one of the hardest species within its genus. They have become increasingly rare in the wild through harvesting.
Description: Aloe aristata is a dwarf version of the Aloe genus. It is stemless with dark grey-green leaves densely packed in a rosette. Each leaf is about 15cm (6 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, spotted with tubercles. The margins of the leaves are lined with white horny materials and both the margins and the surfaces of the leaves are minutely toothed with short, soft white spines.
and has hard white edges and a bristle like growth from the leaf tip. Orange flowers, which appear on a 30cm (12 inch) stalk in early summer, lasting for several days. Mature plants produce many offsets.
Its fleshy leaves retain water allowing the plant to get through periods of drought without trouble. It is a small plant, usually growing to about 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch) in a tight rosette formation. Its nectar-rich, tubular orange flowers attract birds and bees.
Houseplant care: Aloe aristata is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
Gardening: In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners.They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden.
Location: Aloe aristata can be place in full sun or semi-shade in hot climates.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Irrigation: This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Fertilising: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Propagation: Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape.
Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Problems: Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases.
Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer.
Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
Note: When not in bloom, Aloe aristata is similar to and often confused with Haworthia fasciata.
Uses: Aloe aristata is cultivated as a garden plant, but as it requires winter protection is grown under glass in temperate regions. Left to grow by themselves, they quickly form a large clump and are very effective in a large xeriphytic landscape if planted en masse about 0.5m (2 feet) apart, so that as the clumps grow and spread they form an expansive globular carpet.
Also, Aloe aristata is often grown indoors as a window-ledge succulent plant.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright filtered
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 7b-11
Description: Aloe aristata is a dwarf version of the Aloe genus. It is stemless with dark grey-green leaves densely packed in a rosette. Each leaf is about 15cm (6 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, spotted with tubercles. The margins of the leaves are lined with white horny materials and both the margins and the surfaces of the leaves are minutely toothed with short, soft white spines.
and has hard white edges and a bristle like growth from the leaf tip. Orange flowers, which appear on a 30cm (12 inch) stalk in early summer, lasting for several days. Mature plants produce many offsets.
Its fleshy leaves retain water allowing the plant to get through periods of drought without trouble. It is a small plant, usually growing to about 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch) in a tight rosette formation. Its nectar-rich, tubular orange flowers attract birds and bees.
Houseplant care: Aloe aristata is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
Gardening: In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners.They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden.
Location: Aloe aristata can be place in full sun or semi-shade in hot climates.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Irrigation: This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Fertilising: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Propagation: Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape.
Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Problems: Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases.
Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer.
Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
Note: When not in bloom, Aloe aristata is similar to and often confused with Haworthia fasciata.
Uses: Aloe aristata is cultivated as a garden plant, but as it requires winter protection is grown under glass in temperate regions. Left to grow by themselves, they quickly form a large clump and are very effective in a large xeriphytic landscape if planted en masse about 0.5m (2 feet) apart, so that as the clumps grow and spread they form an expansive globular carpet.
Also, Aloe aristata is often grown indoors as a window-ledge succulent plant.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright filtered
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 7b-11
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月28日
Distribution and habitat: Haworthia is a genus of small succulent plants endemic to Southern Africa. Like the Aloes, they are members of the subfamily Asphodeloideae and they generally resemble miniature aloes, except in their flowers, which are characteristic in appearance. They are popular garden and container plants.
Haworthia pumila occurs in a winter rainfall area, which experiences mild frost, -2°C (28°F). Summers are hot, up to 44°C (111°F). Rainfall varies from 150mm (6 inch) (Worcester area) to 350mm (14 inch) (Montagu area). Haworthia pumila is not an endangered plant.
Description: Haworthia pumila is one of the most impressive and eventually large species of the genus. Haworthia pumila has triangular, rather tough, dark green leaves thickly spotted with pearly white warts. Stems are very short and the many leaved rosettes, which can attain a diameter of 15cm (6 inch) and a height of 7-10cm (3-4 inch), appears to be stemless. A cluster of rosettes form quickly (within about a year). The lower, older leaves of each rosette stand erect, but younger ones toward of the rosette centre curve inward. The 7mm (0.3 inch) thick leaves are about 9cm (3 inch) long and 3cm (1 inch) wide at the base. Leaf upper surfaces are flat, while the undersides are keeled toward the tips.
The flowers are somewhat larger than in other species, greenish to brownish-white in colour and waxy in texture (usually Haworthia flowers are white, but not in this case). The booming season is early summer and seed ripens in autumn.
Houseplant care: Haworthia pumila are classified as succulent – which means that they can cope with relatively harsh waterless hot environments. They are however not frost hardy, which means that for cultivation they need over the winter season either a sunny windowsill or preferably a greenhouse.
They are relatively slow-growing plants that offsets to form small clusters with time.
Light: Never place Haworthia pumila in direct sunlight. If exposed to summer sun, foliage will shrivel. Medium light suits this plant at all times. When the plants are provided with enough light, than the white tubercles from the leaves became more attractive.
It is recommended to move these house plants outdoors for the summer months. Place them in light shaded area, but out of direct sun which can scorch its leaves.
Temperature: Normal room temperatures 18-24°C (65-75°F) spring through fall. They have a rest period from mid-winter to late spring and can survive temperatures down to 4-5°C (39-41°F). In winter, if possible, keep Haworthia pumila cooler – around 15°C (59°F) is the optimum winter temperature for this plant.
Water: During the active growth period water moderately, enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout but allowing the top centimeter (0.4 inch) or so to dry out between waterings. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out completely. Never let the potting mixture become completely dry, however. Although Haworthia pumila are succulent plants, they cannot survive total drought.
Feeding: It is neither necessary nor advisable to feed Haworthia pumila .
Longevity: Haworthia pumila plants live for about 30 to 40 years if they are cultivated properly.
Potting and repotting: Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part of coarse sand or perlite to two parts of standard soil-based mixture. Since Haworthia pumila plants are shallow rooted, half-pots are best suited to the clustering habit of the plants. In potting a specimen always leave a 4-5cm (1.5-2 inch) space between the edges of the cluster and the rim of the pot to allow room for new growth.
Repot in spring at the start of the growth period. After pulling or cutting off any dead or shriveled leaves, move each plant into a larger pot only if the rosette cluster covers the entire surface of the potting mixture. The largest pot size needed will be 12-15cm (5-6 inch). A plant that has grown beyond that size should be split up.
Gardening: Although the plant will survive mild frost if kept dry – hardy as low -2°C (28°F) – it should be protected from severe cold and prolonged frost conditions.
Position: Haworthia pumila requires light shade to bright light, protected from strong midday sun. In shade the body colour will remain mostly green, while full sun will darken it and give it red/brown body colour.
The amount of sunlight it can withstand without scorching depends upon the how hot it becomes in the summer in the locale in which it is planted. It will have more colour if it receives more light. During the spring it may be able to take full sun until the heat arrives at the end of spring. In an area that has hot afternoon sun, it may be able to take full morning sun, but requires afternoon shade or afternoon light shade. Can be sunburned if moved from shade/greenhouse into full sun too quickly.
Soil: Haworthia pumila are tolerant of a wide range of soils and habitats, but prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage. A non-acid soil is ideal.
Irrigation: Watering varies depending on the plants position and temperature. Water them frequently when it is warm and dry (but not at the very peak of the heat- they seem to go through a period of summer dormancy at this time) and less to not at all in winter when it is cold. However, Haworthia pumila plants or pots with succulent plants communities are sitting under the grey skies of winter storms and get a lot of rainwater at a time when they are probably mostly dormant. It seems that it is not be a problem for these plants.
Individual plants in smaller pots demand more attention. Water ideally when soil is getting dry and not if wet. When in doubt, best to skip watering as too much is worse than too little. Some pots dry out faster than others, too (if glazed, unglazed terracotta, metal, glass etc – all dry out at different rates).
Fertilising: Do NOT fertilize newly potted plants for the first year. After that, fertilize once in spring, once in fall with diluted fertiliser at half the recommended strength. Avoid summer fertilizing as plant is in a short rest period.
Propagation: Remove the offsets in summer; they should pull away easily. Pot up immediately any offset with roots already attached and treat it as a mature plant.
Allow an offset without roots to dry for three days, however, then press it into the potting mixture. At this stage it should be possible to treat the new plant as an adult Haworthia pumila.
To propagate by leaf cuttings, remove a leaf and let it lie for about one month, giving the wound time to heal. Then lay the leaf on its side with the basal part buried in the soil. This leaf should root within a month or two, and small plants will form at the leaf base.
Haworthia pumila grow readily from seed. These plants have a tendency to hybridize so easily, however, that the results are likely to be unpredictable. Haworthia pumila grows relatively slowly from seed and it takes about 5 years for a plant to reach flowering maturity.
Problems: Given correct treatment, this plant is generally trouble free.
Stunted growth may indicate mealy bags infestation.
Treatment: Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
Rot is only a minor problem with Haworthia if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. Haworthia species can lose their roots periodically. They can rot with too much moisture, especially when there is a sudden temperature drop.
Treatment: There are two ways to handle this:
1. Simply leave the plant on its side and when ‘bumps’ which are the new roots start to appear (It may take a few weeks), pot the plant in soil and water normally. Mist it occasionally for encouragement.
2. The second method is more like how it happens in nature and is my preferred method. Be sure the plant is in well-draining soil and water normally. In a month or so, gently tug and feel the roots taking hold–if the roots are not holding, don’t worry. Just put the plant back in the soil and wait a little longer.
If the plant has lost its roots and is severely dehydrated at the same time, it may be too far gone to save. But always it is worth a try.
When watering, avoid getting the leaves wet. Like other succulents, it is prone to rot if its leaves get too wet. If they are not, fungicides won’t help all that much. Care must be given in watering, keeping them warm and wet while growing and cooler and dry when dormant.
Reddish colour can mean many things besides root loss. Many of Haworthia turn red when the temperature drops or when they get too much sunlight. A plant can loose their reddish colour turning in green later as the environment condition are changed.
Uses and display: Haworthia pumila can grow easily on window sills, verandas and in miniature succulent gardens where they are happy to share their habitat with other smaller succulent plants or in outdoor rockeries.
Haworthias are small, making them beautiful additions to succulent and cactus dish gardens.
Haworthia pumila occurs in a winter rainfall area, which experiences mild frost, -2°C (28°F). Summers are hot, up to 44°C (111°F). Rainfall varies from 150mm (6 inch) (Worcester area) to 350mm (14 inch) (Montagu area). Haworthia pumila is not an endangered plant.
Description: Haworthia pumila is one of the most impressive and eventually large species of the genus. Haworthia pumila has triangular, rather tough, dark green leaves thickly spotted with pearly white warts. Stems are very short and the many leaved rosettes, which can attain a diameter of 15cm (6 inch) and a height of 7-10cm (3-4 inch), appears to be stemless. A cluster of rosettes form quickly (within about a year). The lower, older leaves of each rosette stand erect, but younger ones toward of the rosette centre curve inward. The 7mm (0.3 inch) thick leaves are about 9cm (3 inch) long and 3cm (1 inch) wide at the base. Leaf upper surfaces are flat, while the undersides are keeled toward the tips.
The flowers are somewhat larger than in other species, greenish to brownish-white in colour and waxy in texture (usually Haworthia flowers are white, but not in this case). The booming season is early summer and seed ripens in autumn.
Houseplant care: Haworthia pumila are classified as succulent – which means that they can cope with relatively harsh waterless hot environments. They are however not frost hardy, which means that for cultivation they need over the winter season either a sunny windowsill or preferably a greenhouse.
They are relatively slow-growing plants that offsets to form small clusters with time.
Light: Never place Haworthia pumila in direct sunlight. If exposed to summer sun, foliage will shrivel. Medium light suits this plant at all times. When the plants are provided with enough light, than the white tubercles from the leaves became more attractive.
It is recommended to move these house plants outdoors for the summer months. Place them in light shaded area, but out of direct sun which can scorch its leaves.
Temperature: Normal room temperatures 18-24°C (65-75°F) spring through fall. They have a rest period from mid-winter to late spring and can survive temperatures down to 4-5°C (39-41°F). In winter, if possible, keep Haworthia pumila cooler – around 15°C (59°F) is the optimum winter temperature for this plant.
Water: During the active growth period water moderately, enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout but allowing the top centimeter (0.4 inch) or so to dry out between waterings. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out completely. Never let the potting mixture become completely dry, however. Although Haworthia pumila are succulent plants, they cannot survive total drought.
Feeding: It is neither necessary nor advisable to feed Haworthia pumila .
Longevity: Haworthia pumila plants live for about 30 to 40 years if they are cultivated properly.
Potting and repotting: Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part of coarse sand or perlite to two parts of standard soil-based mixture. Since Haworthia pumila plants are shallow rooted, half-pots are best suited to the clustering habit of the plants. In potting a specimen always leave a 4-5cm (1.5-2 inch) space between the edges of the cluster and the rim of the pot to allow room for new growth.
Repot in spring at the start of the growth period. After pulling or cutting off any dead or shriveled leaves, move each plant into a larger pot only if the rosette cluster covers the entire surface of the potting mixture. The largest pot size needed will be 12-15cm (5-6 inch). A plant that has grown beyond that size should be split up.
Gardening: Although the plant will survive mild frost if kept dry – hardy as low -2°C (28°F) – it should be protected from severe cold and prolonged frost conditions.
Position: Haworthia pumila requires light shade to bright light, protected from strong midday sun. In shade the body colour will remain mostly green, while full sun will darken it and give it red/brown body colour.
The amount of sunlight it can withstand without scorching depends upon the how hot it becomes in the summer in the locale in which it is planted. It will have more colour if it receives more light. During the spring it may be able to take full sun until the heat arrives at the end of spring. In an area that has hot afternoon sun, it may be able to take full morning sun, but requires afternoon shade or afternoon light shade. Can be sunburned if moved from shade/greenhouse into full sun too quickly.
Soil: Haworthia pumila are tolerant of a wide range of soils and habitats, but prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage. A non-acid soil is ideal.
Irrigation: Watering varies depending on the plants position and temperature. Water them frequently when it is warm and dry (but not at the very peak of the heat- they seem to go through a period of summer dormancy at this time) and less to not at all in winter when it is cold. However, Haworthia pumila plants or pots with succulent plants communities are sitting under the grey skies of winter storms and get a lot of rainwater at a time when they are probably mostly dormant. It seems that it is not be a problem for these plants.
Individual plants in smaller pots demand more attention. Water ideally when soil is getting dry and not if wet. When in doubt, best to skip watering as too much is worse than too little. Some pots dry out faster than others, too (if glazed, unglazed terracotta, metal, glass etc – all dry out at different rates).
Fertilising: Do NOT fertilize newly potted plants for the first year. After that, fertilize once in spring, once in fall with diluted fertiliser at half the recommended strength. Avoid summer fertilizing as plant is in a short rest period.
Propagation: Remove the offsets in summer; they should pull away easily. Pot up immediately any offset with roots already attached and treat it as a mature plant.
Allow an offset without roots to dry for three days, however, then press it into the potting mixture. At this stage it should be possible to treat the new plant as an adult Haworthia pumila.
To propagate by leaf cuttings, remove a leaf and let it lie for about one month, giving the wound time to heal. Then lay the leaf on its side with the basal part buried in the soil. This leaf should root within a month or two, and small plants will form at the leaf base.
Haworthia pumila grow readily from seed. These plants have a tendency to hybridize so easily, however, that the results are likely to be unpredictable. Haworthia pumila grows relatively slowly from seed and it takes about 5 years for a plant to reach flowering maturity.
Problems: Given correct treatment, this plant is generally trouble free.
Stunted growth may indicate mealy bags infestation.
Treatment: Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
Rot is only a minor problem with Haworthia if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. Haworthia species can lose their roots periodically. They can rot with too much moisture, especially when there is a sudden temperature drop.
Treatment: There are two ways to handle this:
1. Simply leave the plant on its side and when ‘bumps’ which are the new roots start to appear (It may take a few weeks), pot the plant in soil and water normally. Mist it occasionally for encouragement.
2. The second method is more like how it happens in nature and is my preferred method. Be sure the plant is in well-draining soil and water normally. In a month or so, gently tug and feel the roots taking hold–if the roots are not holding, don’t worry. Just put the plant back in the soil and wait a little longer.
If the plant has lost its roots and is severely dehydrated at the same time, it may be too far gone to save. But always it is worth a try.
When watering, avoid getting the leaves wet. Like other succulents, it is prone to rot if its leaves get too wet. If they are not, fungicides won’t help all that much. Care must be given in watering, keeping them warm and wet while growing and cooler and dry when dormant.
Reddish colour can mean many things besides root loss. Many of Haworthia turn red when the temperature drops or when they get too much sunlight. A plant can loose their reddish colour turning in green later as the environment condition are changed.
Uses and display: Haworthia pumila can grow easily on window sills, verandas and in miniature succulent gardens where they are happy to share their habitat with other smaller succulent plants or in outdoor rockeries.
Haworthias are small, making them beautiful additions to succulent and cactus dish gardens.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月26日
Plants produce new individuals similar to themselves, which is called reproduction. This is a natural phenomenon that plants reproduce and continue species, and it is also one of the basic characteristics of plant life. There are five main propagation methods of flowers: sowing, cutting, rameting, grafting and layering.
1. Sowing and breeding
basic concept
The sowing process is as follows: sterilize the soil in the sun, irrigate it with water, sprinkle the seeds evenly on the soil layer, then choose to cover the soil or not cover the leaves according to the size of the seeds, keep the soil moist, but do not accumulate water, move the flowerpot to the place with scattered light in time after the seeds germinate, and apply some liquid fertilizer, so that the seedlings can be transplanted when they have 2 ~ 3 leaves.
matters need attention
1. The sowing time of flowers is regular. Generally, open-field annual flowers and woody flowers are sown from March to April in spring, and the daily average temperature is stable at 15℃; open-field biennial flowers are mostly sown from August to September in autumn. The sowing date of greenhouse flowers often depends on the required flowering period. There is no strict seasonal restriction, but it is generally necessary to avoid the coldest and hottest seasons.
2. Flower seeds should absorb enough water before germination, and then they can extend radicle and germinate slowly. In order to meet the temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions required for seed germination, it is best to put the seeds in gauze bags before sowing, soak them in warm water at 40℃ for 24 hours, then spread them out on wet gauze, keep the gauze moist, and then sow them after the radicle of the seeds breaks through the seed coat.
3. Flower seeds are divided into four grades: large, medium, small and fine particles. The grain size of large seeds is above 0.5 cm, medium seeds are 0.2 ~ 0.5 cm, small seeds are 0.1 ~ 0.2 cm, and micro seeds are below 0.1 cm. Whether it is large, medium or small seeds, the sowing depth should be 2 ~ 3 times of the seed diameter. Large seeds can be sown in holes, the depth of which is 23 times of the diameter of the seeds, and the soil is flat with the bed surface after sowing; Medium-sized and small-sized seeds are first removed from the bed surface and then covered with a thin layer of soil; fine-sized seeds do not need to be covered with soil.
2. Cutting propagation
basic concept
Cutting propagation means taking a part of vegetative organs of a plant, inserting it into loose and wet soil or fine sand, and using its regeneration ability, making it take root and take branches to become a new plant.
Cuttage propagation
matters need attention
1. As the mother plant of cutting, it is required to have excellent varieties, vigorous growth and no diseases and insect pests, and the growing and aging plants should not be selected as the mother plant of cutting. On the same plant, the cuttings should choose branches whose middle and upper parts are sunny and full, and it is better to have shorter internodes, full bud heads and thick branches and leaves. On the same branch, hardwood cutting should choose the middle and lower parts of branches, because the middle and lower parts store more nutrients, while the tip tissues are often not full.
2. Cutting should be carried out immediately after cutting the sowing strips. Cutting strips such as rose, hibiscus syriacus, and clover, which are cut in late autumn, can be cut well, tied into bundles, buried in flowerpots with wet sand, and placed in a place where the indoor temperature is kept at 0~5℃. Pay attention not to make the sand too dry in winter, and then wait for the early spring of the following year before cutting. Flowers such as Chinese rose can also be cut in plastic shed in winter. Cuttings of succulent plants such as cactus should be dried in a ventilated place for about a week after cutting, and then cut when the cut mouth is slightly dry, otherwise it is easy to rot. Cutting cuttings of Begonia fortunei, oleander, etc., can be soaked in clear water after cutting, and can be directly planted into pots after rooting. For Chinese rose, Milan, etc., dip the lower mouth of cuttings in the injection of vitamin B, and then take it out for a minute or two, so that the liquid medicine can be sucked into cuttings and then inserted into coarse sand. This treatment can promote rooting.
3. After cuttage, management should be strengthened to create good rooting conditions for cuttings. Generally, rooting of flower cuttings requires both soil moisture and air circulation. Cover the cutting pots or beds with a cover made of glass plate or plastic film to keep the temperature and humidity. Small bricks should be placed under the hood to allow air to flow in. In summer and early autumn, the cuttage pots should be placed in shade during the day and in the open air at night; when the temperature is not enough in early, spring, late autumn and winter, they can be placed in warm places or greenhouses, but attention must be paid to the adjustment of temperature and humidity. In the future, according to the rooting speed of cuttings, gradually strengthen the illumination.
3. Branch propagation
basic concept
Ramet propagation is a method of dividing the sprouting branches, clumping branches, sucking buds and creeping branches of flowers from their mother plants and planting them as independent new plants, which is generally applicable to perennial flowers. The ramet method can be divided into two types: full division method and half division method.
division propagation
Full division method: dig out all the roots of the mother plants from the soil, and divide them into several small clusters by hand or scissors. Each small cluster can carry 1 ~ 3 branches, with roots at the lower part, and transplant them to other places or flowerpots respectively. After 3 ~ 4 years, it can be divided again.
Half-division method: when dividing plants, it is not necessary to dig out all the mother plants, but only dig out the soil around, on both sides or on one side of the mother plants to expose the root system, cut them into small clusters with l3 branches with roots at the lower part, and transplant these small clusters to other places to grow into new plants.
matters need attention
1. ramets have a high survival rate because they have complete roots, stems and leaves, but the number of reproduction is limited. This method is commonly used in strong species in tillering ability, such as Chimonanthus praecox, brown bamboo, phoenix-tailed bamboo, peony, peony, orchid, evergreen, Hosta Hosta, etc. In addition, small plants such as chlorophytum and Saxifraga stolonifera, and sucking buds (twigs) produced at the base of Sedum alfredii and Clematis chinensis in pulpy plants can be isolated and planted at any time.
2. Generally, flowers that bloom in early spring should be divided after stopping growing in autumn, and flowers that bloom in summer and autumn should be divided before sprouting in early spring.
4. Grafting and propagation
basic concept
Grafting is to use a part of the vegetative organs of plants to graft on other plants. Branches used for grafting are called scions, buds used are called grafted buds, grafted plants are called rootstocks, and grafted seedlings are called grafted seedlings. Grafting propagation is a good seed method for propagating clones, which is often used in plum blossom and rose. The principle of grafting survival is that the cambium of two plants with affinity heals at the junction, which makes the catheter and sieve tube communicate with each other to form a new individual.
Matters needing attention in grafting propagation
1. Grafting includes several methods, such as branch grafting, bud grafting, butt grafting (peeling off part of cortex of two plants with roots in bananas which are easy to approach in blue phase, and then joining with each other), pith grafting (scion and rootstock heal through pith), root grafting (using root as anvil), etc. However, no matter which method, attention should be paid to the management of temperature, light and water after grafting.
2. It is best to choose different plants which belong to the same genus or the same species as scions for rootstocks, because they have strong affinity, fast graft healing and high survival rate.
3. Rootstocks should have developed roots and strong growth, adapt to the local soil and climate, and have good resistance to pests.
4. Branches with full growth and full buds should be selected for scions.
5. The grafting season varies with different varieties of flowers and trees. For example, bud grafting for clove is mostly carried out in summer, and branch grafting for fuso can be carried out in spring and summer.
5, layering propagation
basic concept
Sliced propagation is a propagation method in which the branches attached to the mother plant form adventitious roots, and then cut off the mother plant to become a new individual. The layering propagation is mostly used for woody flowers which are easy to take root naturally in stems and internodes, but not easy to take root by cutting. The layering time can be carried out all the year round in warm areas, while it is mostly carried out in spring in the north. When layering propagation layering, in order to interrupt the downward transmission of organic substances (such as sugar, auxin and other substances) from the upper ends of leaves and branches, and make these substances accumulate on the upper parts of branches for use when rooting, ring peeling can be carried out. Applying IBA auxin to girdling site can promote rooting.
There are three layering methods: ordinary layering method, soil piling layering method and high branch layering method.
1. The common layering method is mostly used for vine flowers with soft and slender branches, such as Yingchun, Honeysuckle and Lingxiao. When layering, the periphery of the mother plant is bent into an arc shape, the bent protruding part is cut and buried in the soil, and then the bent part is fixed with hooks, and the mother plant can be cut off after it takes root, and then transplanted.
2. The method of stacking soil and layering is suitable for deciduous shrubs with strong tufts and hard branches that are not easy to bend, such as Redwood, Ulmus pumila and Rosa roxburghii. In early summer, the lower part of its branches is peeled for about 1 cm at a distance of about 25 cm from the soil, and then it is cultivated around the mother plant, and the lower part of the whole plant cluster is buried in the soil, and the soil pile is kept moist. After rooting and before sprouting in the next spring, dig the mound, cut the branches from the base to separate the mother plants, and then transplant them separately.
3. High-branch layering method is mostly used for evergreen flowers and trees, such as white orchid, Milan, smiling, etc. Generally, the layering of high branches is carried out in the peak growth season. The well-developed biennial branches are selected and peeled annularly at their proper positions. Then peat soil, mountain mud, moss, etc. are packed in plastic bags, which are used to wrap the branches, pour water through them, and fasten and fix the bags tightly. In the future, pay attention to timely water supply to keep the culture soil moist. After the branches take root, cut off the mother body from the bottom of the bag, remove the wrapped plastic bag, plant it in a pot with soil, and keep it in a cool place. After a large number of new shoots germinate, see you again.
The most obvious advantage of layering propagation is that it is easy to survive and can keep the characteristics of original varieties. This method can be used for some varieties that are difficult to reproduce by other propagation methods.
1. Sowing and breeding
basic concept
The sowing process is as follows: sterilize the soil in the sun, irrigate it with water, sprinkle the seeds evenly on the soil layer, then choose to cover the soil or not cover the leaves according to the size of the seeds, keep the soil moist, but do not accumulate water, move the flowerpot to the place with scattered light in time after the seeds germinate, and apply some liquid fertilizer, so that the seedlings can be transplanted when they have 2 ~ 3 leaves.
matters need attention
1. The sowing time of flowers is regular. Generally, open-field annual flowers and woody flowers are sown from March to April in spring, and the daily average temperature is stable at 15℃; open-field biennial flowers are mostly sown from August to September in autumn. The sowing date of greenhouse flowers often depends on the required flowering period. There is no strict seasonal restriction, but it is generally necessary to avoid the coldest and hottest seasons.
2. Flower seeds should absorb enough water before germination, and then they can extend radicle and germinate slowly. In order to meet the temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions required for seed germination, it is best to put the seeds in gauze bags before sowing, soak them in warm water at 40℃ for 24 hours, then spread them out on wet gauze, keep the gauze moist, and then sow them after the radicle of the seeds breaks through the seed coat.
3. Flower seeds are divided into four grades: large, medium, small and fine particles. The grain size of large seeds is above 0.5 cm, medium seeds are 0.2 ~ 0.5 cm, small seeds are 0.1 ~ 0.2 cm, and micro seeds are below 0.1 cm. Whether it is large, medium or small seeds, the sowing depth should be 2 ~ 3 times of the seed diameter. Large seeds can be sown in holes, the depth of which is 23 times of the diameter of the seeds, and the soil is flat with the bed surface after sowing; Medium-sized and small-sized seeds are first removed from the bed surface and then covered with a thin layer of soil; fine-sized seeds do not need to be covered with soil.
2. Cutting propagation
basic concept
Cutting propagation means taking a part of vegetative organs of a plant, inserting it into loose and wet soil or fine sand, and using its regeneration ability, making it take root and take branches to become a new plant.
Cuttage propagation
matters need attention
1. As the mother plant of cutting, it is required to have excellent varieties, vigorous growth and no diseases and insect pests, and the growing and aging plants should not be selected as the mother plant of cutting. On the same plant, the cuttings should choose branches whose middle and upper parts are sunny and full, and it is better to have shorter internodes, full bud heads and thick branches and leaves. On the same branch, hardwood cutting should choose the middle and lower parts of branches, because the middle and lower parts store more nutrients, while the tip tissues are often not full.
2. Cutting should be carried out immediately after cutting the sowing strips. Cutting strips such as rose, hibiscus syriacus, and clover, which are cut in late autumn, can be cut well, tied into bundles, buried in flowerpots with wet sand, and placed in a place where the indoor temperature is kept at 0~5℃. Pay attention not to make the sand too dry in winter, and then wait for the early spring of the following year before cutting. Flowers such as Chinese rose can also be cut in plastic shed in winter. Cuttings of succulent plants such as cactus should be dried in a ventilated place for about a week after cutting, and then cut when the cut mouth is slightly dry, otherwise it is easy to rot. Cutting cuttings of Begonia fortunei, oleander, etc., can be soaked in clear water after cutting, and can be directly planted into pots after rooting. For Chinese rose, Milan, etc., dip the lower mouth of cuttings in the injection of vitamin B, and then take it out for a minute or two, so that the liquid medicine can be sucked into cuttings and then inserted into coarse sand. This treatment can promote rooting.
3. After cuttage, management should be strengthened to create good rooting conditions for cuttings. Generally, rooting of flower cuttings requires both soil moisture and air circulation. Cover the cutting pots or beds with a cover made of glass plate or plastic film to keep the temperature and humidity. Small bricks should be placed under the hood to allow air to flow in. In summer and early autumn, the cuttage pots should be placed in shade during the day and in the open air at night; when the temperature is not enough in early, spring, late autumn and winter, they can be placed in warm places or greenhouses, but attention must be paid to the adjustment of temperature and humidity. In the future, according to the rooting speed of cuttings, gradually strengthen the illumination.
3. Branch propagation
basic concept
Ramet propagation is a method of dividing the sprouting branches, clumping branches, sucking buds and creeping branches of flowers from their mother plants and planting them as independent new plants, which is generally applicable to perennial flowers. The ramet method can be divided into two types: full division method and half division method.
division propagation
Full division method: dig out all the roots of the mother plants from the soil, and divide them into several small clusters by hand or scissors. Each small cluster can carry 1 ~ 3 branches, with roots at the lower part, and transplant them to other places or flowerpots respectively. After 3 ~ 4 years, it can be divided again.
Half-division method: when dividing plants, it is not necessary to dig out all the mother plants, but only dig out the soil around, on both sides or on one side of the mother plants to expose the root system, cut them into small clusters with l3 branches with roots at the lower part, and transplant these small clusters to other places to grow into new plants.
matters need attention
1. ramets have a high survival rate because they have complete roots, stems and leaves, but the number of reproduction is limited. This method is commonly used in strong species in tillering ability, such as Chimonanthus praecox, brown bamboo, phoenix-tailed bamboo, peony, peony, orchid, evergreen, Hosta Hosta, etc. In addition, small plants such as chlorophytum and Saxifraga stolonifera, and sucking buds (twigs) produced at the base of Sedum alfredii and Clematis chinensis in pulpy plants can be isolated and planted at any time.
2. Generally, flowers that bloom in early spring should be divided after stopping growing in autumn, and flowers that bloom in summer and autumn should be divided before sprouting in early spring.
4. Grafting and propagation
basic concept
Grafting is to use a part of the vegetative organs of plants to graft on other plants. Branches used for grafting are called scions, buds used are called grafted buds, grafted plants are called rootstocks, and grafted seedlings are called grafted seedlings. Grafting propagation is a good seed method for propagating clones, which is often used in plum blossom and rose. The principle of grafting survival is that the cambium of two plants with affinity heals at the junction, which makes the catheter and sieve tube communicate with each other to form a new individual.
Matters needing attention in grafting propagation
1. Grafting includes several methods, such as branch grafting, bud grafting, butt grafting (peeling off part of cortex of two plants with roots in bananas which are easy to approach in blue phase, and then joining with each other), pith grafting (scion and rootstock heal through pith), root grafting (using root as anvil), etc. However, no matter which method, attention should be paid to the management of temperature, light and water after grafting.
2. It is best to choose different plants which belong to the same genus or the same species as scions for rootstocks, because they have strong affinity, fast graft healing and high survival rate.
3. Rootstocks should have developed roots and strong growth, adapt to the local soil and climate, and have good resistance to pests.
4. Branches with full growth and full buds should be selected for scions.
5. The grafting season varies with different varieties of flowers and trees. For example, bud grafting for clove is mostly carried out in summer, and branch grafting for fuso can be carried out in spring and summer.
5, layering propagation
basic concept
Sliced propagation is a propagation method in which the branches attached to the mother plant form adventitious roots, and then cut off the mother plant to become a new individual. The layering propagation is mostly used for woody flowers which are easy to take root naturally in stems and internodes, but not easy to take root by cutting. The layering time can be carried out all the year round in warm areas, while it is mostly carried out in spring in the north. When layering propagation layering, in order to interrupt the downward transmission of organic substances (such as sugar, auxin and other substances) from the upper ends of leaves and branches, and make these substances accumulate on the upper parts of branches for use when rooting, ring peeling can be carried out. Applying IBA auxin to girdling site can promote rooting.
There are three layering methods: ordinary layering method, soil piling layering method and high branch layering method.
1. The common layering method is mostly used for vine flowers with soft and slender branches, such as Yingchun, Honeysuckle and Lingxiao. When layering, the periphery of the mother plant is bent into an arc shape, the bent protruding part is cut and buried in the soil, and then the bent part is fixed with hooks, and the mother plant can be cut off after it takes root, and then transplanted.
2. The method of stacking soil and layering is suitable for deciduous shrubs with strong tufts and hard branches that are not easy to bend, such as Redwood, Ulmus pumila and Rosa roxburghii. In early summer, the lower part of its branches is peeled for about 1 cm at a distance of about 25 cm from the soil, and then it is cultivated around the mother plant, and the lower part of the whole plant cluster is buried in the soil, and the soil pile is kept moist. After rooting and before sprouting in the next spring, dig the mound, cut the branches from the base to separate the mother plants, and then transplant them separately.
3. High-branch layering method is mostly used for evergreen flowers and trees, such as white orchid, Milan, smiling, etc. Generally, the layering of high branches is carried out in the peak growth season. The well-developed biennial branches are selected and peeled annularly at their proper positions. Then peat soil, mountain mud, moss, etc. are packed in plastic bags, which are used to wrap the branches, pour water through them, and fasten and fix the bags tightly. In the future, pay attention to timely water supply to keep the culture soil moist. After the branches take root, cut off the mother body from the bottom of the bag, remove the wrapped plastic bag, plant it in a pot with soil, and keep it in a cool place. After a large number of new shoots germinate, see you again.
The most obvious advantage of layering propagation is that it is easy to survive and can keep the characteristics of original varieties. This method can be used for some varieties that are difficult to reproduce by other propagation methods.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月12日
Flower Pots - Terra CottaFlower pots have had various uses over time: moving plants to new locations — sometimes great distances, starting seeds, patio gardening, cultivation of indoor plants, and often for year-round growth in very cold climates, which usually have a short growing season. During the 18th century Josiah Wedgwood manufactured flower pots that were as gorgeous as his China dinnerware; they were often chosen as table centerpieces.
Flower pots were historically made from terra cotta; coarse, porous clay fired in a kiln and used mainly for vases, roofing and architectural purposes. Known and made use of from as early as 3,000 B.C., terra cotta died out when the Roman Empire collapsed; it was revived in Italy and Germany in the 1400’s and remains popular to this day. Clay pots are commonly used for both house plants and outdoor plants; the unglazed clay allows air and moisture to penetrate the pot; they also act as a wick to take excess moisture from the soil, possibly preventing root rot and improving plant health care. They are an excellent choice for Roses, African Violets, Succulent plants, tropical plants (including Palm Plants), and there are even special terra cotta flower pots made for Orchid care.
Flower Pots - Metal Kit
Alternative Flower Pots
Presently we have commercial flower pots made of many materials such as plastic, wood, stone, and biodegradable materials. Recycling plastic food containers or tin cans by pounding drainage holes in the bottom with a hammer and nail also gives us flower pots.
Flower Pots - Terra Cotta Pot in a Wrought Iron Tricycle
During difficult financial periods we have often used tin cans for flower pots; you can decorate them by painting or gluing on tiny objects or just wrap with foil or pretty paper and tie a bow – voila! – beautiful and unique! Other ideas for flower pots, planters or just as garden ornaments include baskets, pails, coffee/tea pots, tea kettles, tubs or mailboxes – just stretch your imagination and use whatever fits in with your indoor, yard, patio or garden design.
Flower Pots - Hanging
Hanging planters are great for Spider Plants and similar types of houseplants, but they need to be placed where heads won’t be bumped; hanging them on fence panels adds a nice touch and they can usually be seen before you crack your skull! Hanging planters are also a good idea for poisonous plants because they can be kept out of reach of children and pets.
Flower pots usually have a hole in the bottom for drainage; sometimes there is a saucer placed beneath the pot to catch the water – often plants can use this water by taking it up through the root system. There are plants however, that should not be saturated and many that should not have water remain in the saucer even if they can be saturated – know the watering instructions for each plant you plan to grow.
Flower Pots - Self Watering Planter
More recently flower pots have been designed with an automatic watering system and their own reservoir for water storage, this innovation is particularly convenient if you must be away from home. Some Indoor plant stands, like the one in Figure 6, hold an assortment of flower pots and are self watering.
Container Gardening
Container gardening is as old as Rome, with the boxes also made of terra cotta. In the first century B.C most Romans cultivated their small cottage gardens to provide food, medicinal herbs, and flowers.
Flower Pots - French Style Window Box
Peasants had little if any gardening space and began to grow the plants they needed in window boxes. Eventually they were so popular that the rich upper classes began to develop balcony and rooftop gardens – elaborate with vines, shrubs, flowers and even fishponds.
The window boxes kept their popularity and spread to Europe and later to America. English cottage gardens boasted wire hay baskets as a new form to grow plants in at the windows; France often used wrought iron window boxes like the one pictured in Figure 7.
Flower Pots - Planter Box
Large planter boxes for vegetable gardening can be built at home, such as the one in Figure 8, constructed for peppers and tomatoes. Cyclamen also thrive in planters like these.
Original garden ideas can be checked for appropriate lighting, watering, fertilizing and aesthetic appeal at your local garden center. If you need fresh opinions or just suggestions also look through books at the library or search online. If you don’t have a gardeners’ supply center nearby, Amazon.com is an excellent source of books for garden ideas but also offers: tools, soil, fertilizers, herbicide/pesticide sprays, gloves, flower pots, fence panels, planter boxes, garden ornaments, plant pots, and window boxes along with the seeds or growing plants – and almost anything else you could need.
If you love to garden and are creative, I’m sure you’ll find things to put your foliage and flowering plants in that may be unusual but very useful and attractive in a specific setting.
Flower pots were historically made from terra cotta; coarse, porous clay fired in a kiln and used mainly for vases, roofing and architectural purposes. Known and made use of from as early as 3,000 B.C., terra cotta died out when the Roman Empire collapsed; it was revived in Italy and Germany in the 1400’s and remains popular to this day. Clay pots are commonly used for both house plants and outdoor plants; the unglazed clay allows air and moisture to penetrate the pot; they also act as a wick to take excess moisture from the soil, possibly preventing root rot and improving plant health care. They are an excellent choice for Roses, African Violets, Succulent plants, tropical plants (including Palm Plants), and there are even special terra cotta flower pots made for Orchid care.
Flower Pots - Metal Kit
Alternative Flower Pots
Presently we have commercial flower pots made of many materials such as plastic, wood, stone, and biodegradable materials. Recycling plastic food containers or tin cans by pounding drainage holes in the bottom with a hammer and nail also gives us flower pots.
Flower Pots - Terra Cotta Pot in a Wrought Iron Tricycle
During difficult financial periods we have often used tin cans for flower pots; you can decorate them by painting or gluing on tiny objects or just wrap with foil or pretty paper and tie a bow – voila! – beautiful and unique! Other ideas for flower pots, planters or just as garden ornaments include baskets, pails, coffee/tea pots, tea kettles, tubs or mailboxes – just stretch your imagination and use whatever fits in with your indoor, yard, patio or garden design.
Flower Pots - Hanging
Hanging planters are great for Spider Plants and similar types of houseplants, but they need to be placed where heads won’t be bumped; hanging them on fence panels adds a nice touch and they can usually be seen before you crack your skull! Hanging planters are also a good idea for poisonous plants because they can be kept out of reach of children and pets.
Flower pots usually have a hole in the bottom for drainage; sometimes there is a saucer placed beneath the pot to catch the water – often plants can use this water by taking it up through the root system. There are plants however, that should not be saturated and many that should not have water remain in the saucer even if they can be saturated – know the watering instructions for each plant you plan to grow.
Flower Pots - Self Watering Planter
More recently flower pots have been designed with an automatic watering system and their own reservoir for water storage, this innovation is particularly convenient if you must be away from home. Some Indoor plant stands, like the one in Figure 6, hold an assortment of flower pots and are self watering.
Container Gardening
Container gardening is as old as Rome, with the boxes also made of terra cotta. In the first century B.C most Romans cultivated their small cottage gardens to provide food, medicinal herbs, and flowers.
Flower Pots - French Style Window Box
Peasants had little if any gardening space and began to grow the plants they needed in window boxes. Eventually they were so popular that the rich upper classes began to develop balcony and rooftop gardens – elaborate with vines, shrubs, flowers and even fishponds.
The window boxes kept their popularity and spread to Europe and later to America. English cottage gardens boasted wire hay baskets as a new form to grow plants in at the windows; France often used wrought iron window boxes like the one pictured in Figure 7.
Flower Pots - Planter Box
Large planter boxes for vegetable gardening can be built at home, such as the one in Figure 8, constructed for peppers and tomatoes. Cyclamen also thrive in planters like these.
Original garden ideas can be checked for appropriate lighting, watering, fertilizing and aesthetic appeal at your local garden center. If you need fresh opinions or just suggestions also look through books at the library or search online. If you don’t have a gardeners’ supply center nearby, Amazon.com is an excellent source of books for garden ideas but also offers: tools, soil, fertilizers, herbicide/pesticide sprays, gloves, flower pots, fence panels, planter boxes, garden ornaments, plant pots, and window boxes along with the seeds or growing plants – and almost anything else you could need.
If you love to garden and are creative, I’m sure you’ll find things to put your foliage and flowering plants in that may be unusual but very useful and attractive in a specific setting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年04月20日
As a novice, I recommend some more popular and relatively easy-to-breed varieties. You can use small pots to raise single plants in a single room, or you can group pots to grow plants with similar habits. If you are a fighter in general cargo, you are strongly recommended to buy these two varieties. The price of real cabbage is a big surprise, and you will not die no matter how you raise it.
1. White Peony
White peonies are tender and tender when they are raised. In the past two years, South Korea brought white peonies of superb quality to the country and sold them at high prices, posing as new varieties. However, because the variety is still relatively general, the temperature difference and light requirements are relatively high if you want to grow a particularly good color. The main surprise that white peony brings is that it is super easy to live.
2. Givalian
White peony is alive as soon as it is inserted, and Jivalian is basically red as soon as it is exposed to the sun, and it is shining with a little sunshine. In autumn and winter, almost half of the leaves are red tips, which is especially beautiful. And even though it is a common product, Jiwalian rarely grows excessively. In summer, the leaves will elongate and the plant shape is scattered. Most of the time, it is very compact. The magnificent and charming type in everyone's impression, Succulents are always chubby and chubby, but not all of them. Succulents also have romantic varieties like roses.
3. Mountain rose
The rose among the succulents is the mountain rose. The thin leaves are layered on top of each other, rolling out a beautiful heart like a rose, which is very beautiful. Mountain roses are talking about this type of plant, not the name of the variety. In this type of plant, there will be a variety of small roses with petals of different shapes. However, although the plant type is very beautiful, mountain roses are more difficult to produce color, and they are usually green.
4. Lina Lian
Lina is also a very common general product, because of its unique leaf shape, it has almost become a must-have for the group of pots. In many varieties with round leaves, it can play a good role in adjusting, and Lina is very easy to use. Color, in addition to the unavoidable turning green in summer, other seasons can easily become the kind of light pink that is very girly. However, Lina's words are a bit like white peony. It lives no matter what, but it is a variety that is easier to grow. For the color control, the delicate pink series must not be overlooked. Every year in autumn and winter, these pink varieties are simply going to be beautiful.
5. Debbie
The pink variety is a classic must-have. It grows fast, and is not so easy to grow. It is easier to control the plant type and color, and novices can also grow beautiful.
6, peach eggs
The characteristic of a good variety is that even if the conditions are not adequate, the appearance of the plant will still be good. In terms of price, peach eggs are no longer in the ranks of general merchandise, but the genes of good varieties make them tender and tender almost all year round, and they are not easy to grow. After a long time, the peach egg will become a very beautiful old pile, which is collected by almost every high-level player. Noble and glamorous type In nature, blue plants are relatively rare, whether they are flowers or leaves, so blue succulents are generally quite popular. The white whale almost loses every blue, and it really feels too beautiful.
1. White Peony
White peonies are tender and tender when they are raised. In the past two years, South Korea brought white peonies of superb quality to the country and sold them at high prices, posing as new varieties. However, because the variety is still relatively general, the temperature difference and light requirements are relatively high if you want to grow a particularly good color. The main surprise that white peony brings is that it is super easy to live.
2. Givalian
White peony is alive as soon as it is inserted, and Jivalian is basically red as soon as it is exposed to the sun, and it is shining with a little sunshine. In autumn and winter, almost half of the leaves are red tips, which is especially beautiful. And even though it is a common product, Jiwalian rarely grows excessively. In summer, the leaves will elongate and the plant shape is scattered. Most of the time, it is very compact. The magnificent and charming type in everyone's impression, Succulents are always chubby and chubby, but not all of them. Succulents also have romantic varieties like roses.
3. Mountain rose
The rose among the succulents is the mountain rose. The thin leaves are layered on top of each other, rolling out a beautiful heart like a rose, which is very beautiful. Mountain roses are talking about this type of plant, not the name of the variety. In this type of plant, there will be a variety of small roses with petals of different shapes. However, although the plant type is very beautiful, mountain roses are more difficult to produce color, and they are usually green.
4. Lina Lian
Lina is also a very common general product, because of its unique leaf shape, it has almost become a must-have for the group of pots. In many varieties with round leaves, it can play a good role in adjusting, and Lina is very easy to use. Color, in addition to the unavoidable turning green in summer, other seasons can easily become the kind of light pink that is very girly. However, Lina's words are a bit like white peony. It lives no matter what, but it is a variety that is easier to grow. For the color control, the delicate pink series must not be overlooked. Every year in autumn and winter, these pink varieties are simply going to be beautiful.
5. Debbie
The pink variety is a classic must-have. It grows fast, and is not so easy to grow. It is easier to control the plant type and color, and novices can also grow beautiful.
6, peach eggs
The characteristic of a good variety is that even if the conditions are not adequate, the appearance of the plant will still be good. In terms of price, peach eggs are no longer in the ranks of general merchandise, but the genes of good varieties make them tender and tender almost all year round, and they are not easy to grow. After a long time, the peach egg will become a very beautiful old pile, which is collected by almost every high-level player. Noble and glamorous type In nature, blue plants are relatively rare, whether they are flowers or leaves, so blue succulents are generally quite popular. The white whale almost loses every blue, and it really feels too beautiful.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年03月31日
Summer came quietly,
In order to add a beautiful scenery to the windowsill
Many friends around
Start a gust of wind
Growing succulents
Or some plants that can be grown on the balcony.
Today
Just share it with everyone
How to protect flowers??
1. White vinegar cures yellow leaves
Applicable species: Camellia, azalea, frangipani, osmanthus, Milan, gardenia, jasmine and other acid-loving plants.
When growing flowers, flowers and leaves are often withered. If it is not for lack of water, it may be yellowing disease.
White vinegar and water are diluted in a ratio of 1:500 and placed in a small spray bottle, and sprayed on the leaves in the morning, spraying once every 2 days.
2. Beer to promote flowers
Applicable species: Foliage plants such as green radish, Brazilian ironwood, monstera, geranium, Chlorophytum, Dieffenbachia.
Wiping the leaves with beer can make the leaves green and bright, and watering on the roots can also make the plants grow vigorously and bloom in time.
Dilute the water and beer in a certain proportion, mix them evenly, and pour them on the roots of foliage plants. Twice a month, the flowers can be fresh and bright.
Pour a little beer in the vase when arranging flowers to make the colors of the flowers radiant.
3. Use waste oil to grow flowers
Applicable species: night flower, rose, clivia, longevity flower, honeysuckle and other fertilizer-loving plants.
Every time you clean the range hood, don't throw away the waste oil in the oil collecting cup. It is a good partner for plant-loving plants.
Insert holes at the edge of the flowerpot. Generally, insert two holes in the pot with a diameter of 15 cm, and three holes with a diameter of 25 cm. Pour waste oil into the hole and cover it with soil. The fertilizer effect can be maintained for two to three months.
4. Soapy water kills insects
Applicable species: all insect-bearing plants.
When there are pests on plants, try soapy water. It can kill many soft-shell pests, such as aphids, red spiders, and ants.
Dissolve the soap with rainwater, well water, cold boiled water, etc., and keep the concentration below 1%. Spray the solution on the leaf surface and back of diseased leaves in the morning, and don't spray it if there is no insect damage.
Soapy water tends to make the soil alkaline, so it is generally not used for watering flowers, but the insecticidal effect is not bad.
The above method is the secret recipe that Xiaon tried. Dear friends, you can choose the right method according to your flower type!
In order to add a beautiful scenery to the windowsill
Many friends around
Start a gust of wind
Growing succulents
Or some plants that can be grown on the balcony.
Today
Just share it with everyone
How to protect flowers??
1. White vinegar cures yellow leaves
Applicable species: Camellia, azalea, frangipani, osmanthus, Milan, gardenia, jasmine and other acid-loving plants.
When growing flowers, flowers and leaves are often withered. If it is not for lack of water, it may be yellowing disease.
White vinegar and water are diluted in a ratio of 1:500 and placed in a small spray bottle, and sprayed on the leaves in the morning, spraying once every 2 days.
2. Beer to promote flowers
Applicable species: Foliage plants such as green radish, Brazilian ironwood, monstera, geranium, Chlorophytum, Dieffenbachia.
Wiping the leaves with beer can make the leaves green and bright, and watering on the roots can also make the plants grow vigorously and bloom in time.
Dilute the water and beer in a certain proportion, mix them evenly, and pour them on the roots of foliage plants. Twice a month, the flowers can be fresh and bright.
Pour a little beer in the vase when arranging flowers to make the colors of the flowers radiant.
3. Use waste oil to grow flowers
Applicable species: night flower, rose, clivia, longevity flower, honeysuckle and other fertilizer-loving plants.
Every time you clean the range hood, don't throw away the waste oil in the oil collecting cup. It is a good partner for plant-loving plants.
Insert holes at the edge of the flowerpot. Generally, insert two holes in the pot with a diameter of 15 cm, and three holes with a diameter of 25 cm. Pour waste oil into the hole and cover it with soil. The fertilizer effect can be maintained for two to three months.
4. Soapy water kills insects
Applicable species: all insect-bearing plants.
When there are pests on plants, try soapy water. It can kill many soft-shell pests, such as aphids, red spiders, and ants.
Dissolve the soap with rainwater, well water, cold boiled water, etc., and keep the concentration below 1%. Spray the solution on the leaf surface and back of diseased leaves in the morning, and don't spray it if there is no insect damage.
Soapy water tends to make the soil alkaline, so it is generally not used for watering flowers, but the insecticidal effect is not bad.
The above method is the secret recipe that Xiaon tried. Dear friends, you can choose the right method according to your flower type!
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文章
莹723
2021年02月24日
If your home is suffering from a sense of drab lifelessness, what it probably needs are a few plants. From adorable succulents to kitchen herbs, every home feels warmer and more welcoming with a few indoor plants.
One of the most popular living room plants for decades have been graceful ficuses or figs, with their glossy leaves and light gray trunks. Though they typically grow to about 10 feet tall indoors, in the wild, certain species can reach heights of 60 feet tall! Sometimes the trunks of ficus trees are twisted or braided or trained as a bonsai. With the right care, a ficus tree can live for about 20 years.”
Here’s how to care for a ficus tree, plus everything else you need to know about this popular (but somewhat finicky!) houseplant.
1,How much light does my ficus tree need?
As a tropical plant, a ficus tree, also called "weeping fig," need lots of bright indirect light. Place it near your brightest windows, typically south- or west-facing, or give it supplemental light with a grow light. Once it’s situated, leave it be. It’s a little fussy and doesn’t respond well to changes. Ficus trees will sulk by dropping leaves anytime light levels or temperatures change. It also drops leaves seasonally, so be prepared with a good dustpan.
2.How do I care for a ficus tree?
Typically, a new ficus will come in a black plastic pot with drain holes. Simply place it into a pretty, decorative clay planter. The plant shouldn't need repotting for several years.
To water your ficus, simply give it a good soaking and let it dry out before watering again. If you overwater, the leaves will turn yellow and drop. If you underwater, the green leaves will begin to drop. A way to judge whether it’s time to water is to tip the pot and feel its weight; if it’s really light, it’s probably time to give it a drink. You’ll get the hang of it after a few weeks. After watering, always dump out any water that gathers in the tray beneath the pot; no plant likes soggy feet.
To feed your ficus tree give it a liquid all-purpose fertilizer during its growing season from April to September.
The sticky sap may irritate tummies, so keep this plant away from curious pets who like to nibble on houseplants. Occasionally, dust or spray its leaves with a damp cloth or a gentle spray from the shower head.
3.Can I take my ficus plant outdoors in summer?
You can, but it’s not the best idea. For starters, it will likely drop leaves, being the diva that it is! It also can’t cook in hot sun, so you would need to find a shady spot. Finally, you’ll have to bring it indoors before the night temperatures drop into the 50s in the fall. Take it aside, and spray it with neem oil about a week before you bring it in to kill any hitchhikers such as aphids, scale, mealy bugs, or spider mites, that potentially could infest your other indoor plants. Also, expect it to drop leaves again when it comes inside until it readjusts to the light levels indoors.
4.Does the ficus tree have any particular problems?
Keep an eye out for an infestation of scale insects. These insects have a waxy exterior appearance, and you might see them attached to leaf surfaces. There’s also a sticky substance called honeydew, which you’ll find on your table or floor, that’s excreted by the scale when feeding. Try controlling a minor infestation by using a soft cloth dipped in warm, soapy water to wipe these insects away. If that’s has too much work, treat an insecticidal soap or neem oil. Retreat in 10 days.
One of the most popular living room plants for decades have been graceful ficuses or figs, with their glossy leaves and light gray trunks. Though they typically grow to about 10 feet tall indoors, in the wild, certain species can reach heights of 60 feet tall! Sometimes the trunks of ficus trees are twisted or braided or trained as a bonsai. With the right care, a ficus tree can live for about 20 years.”
Here’s how to care for a ficus tree, plus everything else you need to know about this popular (but somewhat finicky!) houseplant.
1,How much light does my ficus tree need?
As a tropical plant, a ficus tree, also called "weeping fig," need lots of bright indirect light. Place it near your brightest windows, typically south- or west-facing, or give it supplemental light with a grow light. Once it’s situated, leave it be. It’s a little fussy and doesn’t respond well to changes. Ficus trees will sulk by dropping leaves anytime light levels or temperatures change. It also drops leaves seasonally, so be prepared with a good dustpan.
2.How do I care for a ficus tree?
Typically, a new ficus will come in a black plastic pot with drain holes. Simply place it into a pretty, decorative clay planter. The plant shouldn't need repotting for several years.
To water your ficus, simply give it a good soaking and let it dry out before watering again. If you overwater, the leaves will turn yellow and drop. If you underwater, the green leaves will begin to drop. A way to judge whether it’s time to water is to tip the pot and feel its weight; if it’s really light, it’s probably time to give it a drink. You’ll get the hang of it after a few weeks. After watering, always dump out any water that gathers in the tray beneath the pot; no plant likes soggy feet.
To feed your ficus tree give it a liquid all-purpose fertilizer during its growing season from April to September.
The sticky sap may irritate tummies, so keep this plant away from curious pets who like to nibble on houseplants. Occasionally, dust or spray its leaves with a damp cloth or a gentle spray from the shower head.
3.Can I take my ficus plant outdoors in summer?
You can, but it’s not the best idea. For starters, it will likely drop leaves, being the diva that it is! It also can’t cook in hot sun, so you would need to find a shady spot. Finally, you’ll have to bring it indoors before the night temperatures drop into the 50s in the fall. Take it aside, and spray it with neem oil about a week before you bring it in to kill any hitchhikers such as aphids, scale, mealy bugs, or spider mites, that potentially could infest your other indoor plants. Also, expect it to drop leaves again when it comes inside until it readjusts to the light levels indoors.
4.Does the ficus tree have any particular problems?
Keep an eye out for an infestation of scale insects. These insects have a waxy exterior appearance, and you might see them attached to leaf surfaces. There’s also a sticky substance called honeydew, which you’ll find on your table or floor, that’s excreted by the scale when feeding. Try controlling a minor infestation by using a soft cloth dipped in warm, soapy water to wipe these insects away. If that’s has too much work, treat an insecticidal soap or neem oil. Retreat in 10 days.
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文章
莹723
2021年02月08日
Even if your "garden" is a few pots on a balcony or patio, growing things is good for us! Besides adding zest to our cooking, many modern drugs, such as aspirin, are derived from plants. "Over time, we've found many plants are effective for nutrition, for adding spice to foods, and also for healing us,” says vice president for botanical science at the New York Botanical Garden, Michael Balick, PhD. “There’s also a positive mental health aspect to gardening.” More and more studies show that gardening can help you deal with anxiety and depression, manage weight, and control blood pressure. Plus, who doesn't need more fresh air and sunshine, especially these days?
The great thing about most herbs is that most do just as well in pots as in ground. Some healing plants are perennial, which means they'll return year after year. In many parts of the country, even the snowy North, you'll be able to harvest the hardier herbs for much of the year. Many are easy to dry or freeze so you can use them year-round in cooking.
1．Chamomile
Roman chamomile is a low-growing perennial, while German chamomile is an annual that can become two feet tall. Chamomile likes full sun to part shade and needs well-drained soils.
How to use: Both types are used interchangeably. When the flowers begin to open, harvest them and spread out to dry. Chop the dried flowers, add about one tablespoon per cup of hot water, and steep five minutes to make a tea to aid sleep or digestion. Or place the chopped flowers in a small muslin bag with a drawstring to make a tea bag. Bonus: Use this after it cools to soothe red, puffy eyes!
2．Mint
There are hundreds of varieties of mint, with flavors varying from peppermint to chocolate. Mint is one of the easiest herbs to grow. In fact, keep it in a pot or it will take over your garden! Make sure to plant in full sun (6 hours or more direct sun per day).
How to use: Mint relaxes the smooth muscles of the GI tract, so it’s long been used for digestive issues. When you have tummy trouble or feel nauseated, make a tea for sipping. Strip about a dozen leaves (peppermint and spearmint are especially good) and steep in one cup of boiling water until it takes on a yellowish hue.
3．Rosemary
Rosemary originates in the Mediterranean, so it needs full sun and prefers sandy or rocky soil. It’s drought tolerant and perennial in warmer climates. In cold climates, pot it up and bring it indoors for the winter, giving it tons of light.
How to use: Make a hair rinse (good for oily hair) by placing one teaspoon dried rosemary or a handful of fresh rosemary in a cup of boiling water; add one tablespoon lemon juice, and let steep for 10 minutes. Strain, let the infusion cool, and pour through freshly shampooed hair. Add it to dishes such as focaccia, sauces, and roasted meats.
4．Lavender
Lavender likes full sun in well-drained soil, but make sure you choose a variety that will thrive in your zone.
How to use: Harvest the leaves and flowers just as the flower spikes begin to open, chop them up and put them in a small sachet to tuck a few under your pillow to reduce anxiety and help you sleep better. It's also delicious in baked goods such as scones!
5.Lemon Balm
Lemon balm is very easy to grow in full sun and well-drained soil. Keep it in a container so it doesn’t spread rampantly throughout the garden.
How to use: Pour one cup boiling water over five or six fresh leaves. Steep for five minutes, strain and sweeten. Drink several times a day for an upset tummy.
6.Aloe Vera
Grow aloe vera indoors in bright light. Don’t keep it too wet because it retains moisture. It doesn't mind being overcrowded in the pot, so don't worry about repotting unless you want to make new baby plants.
How to use: Aloe vera is a great topical home remedy for skin irritation because compounds in the leaves have anti-inflammatory properties. Cut off the largest outermost leaves, peel and squeeze the gel-like substance onto minor burns or poison ivy or poison oak rashes.
7.Basil
Basil needs full sun and well-drained soil. Pinch off the flowers as soon as they begin to form to encourage branching and the growth of more leaves.
How to use: Basil has antiseptic and antibacterial properties. Crush a few leaves and apply to mosquito bites. Leave on for a few minutes to relieve itching. It's the star ingredient in many Mediterranean dishes including sauces, soups, and pesto. It also freezes well if you have an abundance (toss leaves in a blender with water or olive oil, blend until mostly smooth, then freeze in ice cube trays!).
8．Calendula
These pretty orange and yellow flowers, also known as French pot marigold, like full sun. It’s an annual that blooms from summer until frost, and it's not difficult to grow from seed.
How to use: Pick the flowers when they're fully opened, but not yet gone to seed. Pour one cup boiling water over two teaspoons of petals. Steep for 10 minutes, strain, and let cool. Use as a mouthwash or gargle to relieve inflammation.
9．Thyme
Thyme likes hot, dry conditions and soil that isn’t too rich. It’s incredibly easy to grow in full sun (it even tolerates some shade), and most varieties spread quickly.
How to use: Thyme’s antimicrobial activity may help relieve coughs and cold symptoms. Make a tea by pouring a cup of boiling water over a tablespoon of fresh leaves, and steep for 10 minutes. Drink several times a day. It's lovely in sauces and chicken dishes.
10．Sage
Sage needs full sun and well-drained soil. It’s a perennial in most climates.
How to use: Sage’s antimicrobial properties may relieve upper respiratory symptoms. Chop up about one teaspoon of the leaves and steep in a cup of boiling hot water for 10 minutes. Cool, and use as a gargle for sore throats. It's also delish in stuffing, chicken, and pork dishes.
The great thing about most herbs is that most do just as well in pots as in ground. Some healing plants are perennial, which means they'll return year after year. In many parts of the country, even the snowy North, you'll be able to harvest the hardier herbs for much of the year. Many are easy to dry or freeze so you can use them year-round in cooking.
1．Chamomile
Roman chamomile is a low-growing perennial, while German chamomile is an annual that can become two feet tall. Chamomile likes full sun to part shade and needs well-drained soils.
How to use: Both types are used interchangeably. When the flowers begin to open, harvest them and spread out to dry. Chop the dried flowers, add about one tablespoon per cup of hot water, and steep five minutes to make a tea to aid sleep or digestion. Or place the chopped flowers in a small muslin bag with a drawstring to make a tea bag. Bonus: Use this after it cools to soothe red, puffy eyes!
2．Mint
There are hundreds of varieties of mint, with flavors varying from peppermint to chocolate. Mint is one of the easiest herbs to grow. In fact, keep it in a pot or it will take over your garden! Make sure to plant in full sun (6 hours or more direct sun per day).
How to use: Mint relaxes the smooth muscles of the GI tract, so it’s long been used for digestive issues. When you have tummy trouble or feel nauseated, make a tea for sipping. Strip about a dozen leaves (peppermint and spearmint are especially good) and steep in one cup of boiling water until it takes on a yellowish hue.
3．Rosemary
Rosemary originates in the Mediterranean, so it needs full sun and prefers sandy or rocky soil. It’s drought tolerant and perennial in warmer climates. In cold climates, pot it up and bring it indoors for the winter, giving it tons of light.
How to use: Make a hair rinse (good for oily hair) by placing one teaspoon dried rosemary or a handful of fresh rosemary in a cup of boiling water; add one tablespoon lemon juice, and let steep for 10 minutes. Strain, let the infusion cool, and pour through freshly shampooed hair. Add it to dishes such as focaccia, sauces, and roasted meats.
4．Lavender
Lavender likes full sun in well-drained soil, but make sure you choose a variety that will thrive in your zone.
How to use: Harvest the leaves and flowers just as the flower spikes begin to open, chop them up and put them in a small sachet to tuck a few under your pillow to reduce anxiety and help you sleep better. It's also delicious in baked goods such as scones!
5.Lemon Balm
Lemon balm is very easy to grow in full sun and well-drained soil. Keep it in a container so it doesn’t spread rampantly throughout the garden.
How to use: Pour one cup boiling water over five or six fresh leaves. Steep for five minutes, strain and sweeten. Drink several times a day for an upset tummy.
6.Aloe Vera
Grow aloe vera indoors in bright light. Don’t keep it too wet because it retains moisture. It doesn't mind being overcrowded in the pot, so don't worry about repotting unless you want to make new baby plants.
How to use: Aloe vera is a great topical home remedy for skin irritation because compounds in the leaves have anti-inflammatory properties. Cut off the largest outermost leaves, peel and squeeze the gel-like substance onto minor burns or poison ivy or poison oak rashes.
7.Basil
Basil needs full sun and well-drained soil. Pinch off the flowers as soon as they begin to form to encourage branching and the growth of more leaves.
How to use: Basil has antiseptic and antibacterial properties. Crush a few leaves and apply to mosquito bites. Leave on for a few minutes to relieve itching. It's the star ingredient in many Mediterranean dishes including sauces, soups, and pesto. It also freezes well if you have an abundance (toss leaves in a blender with water or olive oil, blend until mostly smooth, then freeze in ice cube trays!).
8．Calendula
These pretty orange and yellow flowers, also known as French pot marigold, like full sun. It’s an annual that blooms from summer until frost, and it's not difficult to grow from seed.
How to use: Pick the flowers when they're fully opened, but not yet gone to seed. Pour one cup boiling water over two teaspoons of petals. Steep for 10 minutes, strain, and let cool. Use as a mouthwash or gargle to relieve inflammation.
9．Thyme
Thyme likes hot, dry conditions and soil that isn’t too rich. It’s incredibly easy to grow in full sun (it even tolerates some shade), and most varieties spread quickly.
How to use: Thyme’s antimicrobial activity may help relieve coughs and cold symptoms. Make a tea by pouring a cup of boiling water over a tablespoon of fresh leaves, and steep for 10 minutes. Drink several times a day. It's lovely in sauces and chicken dishes.
10．Sage
Sage needs full sun and well-drained soil. It’s a perennial in most climates.
How to use: Sage’s antimicrobial properties may relieve upper respiratory symptoms. Chop up about one teaspoon of the leaves and steep in a cup of boiling hot water for 10 minutes. Cool, and use as a gargle for sore throats. It's also delish in stuffing, chicken, and pork dishes.
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文章
莹723
2021年01月20日
Poison Garden, the deadliest garden in the world. This is one garden where you won't want to pick any flowers—unless you have a death wish.
Located at Alnwick Castle in Northumberland, England, this lush, green gated patch is home to over 95 plants, all of which can kill you.
"We obviously have to maintain the garden, so we have to tend to the plants, and when we do that we have to be very careful of the way we operate, so we have to cover some of our skin when we deal with particularly dangerous plants," head gardener Trevor Jones said.
What's the story behind the Poison Garden, which opened in 2005? After visiting a similar one in Padua, Italy built by the Medici family, the Duchess of Northumberland decided that she wanted to start her own, since it was more interesting than your standard herb garden.
Here are some of the plants you would find in the Poison Garden, if you dared to enter:
1.GIANT HOGWEED
This plant can grow up to 14 feet or more, and can cause severe skin irritation, painful blistering, permanent scarring and even blindness.
2.ACONTIUM
Beautiful, right? But beware. These poisonous flowers were once used as poisonous arrows by the Aleuts of Alaska's Aleutian Islands for hunting whales. They also have a long history of killing enemies in battle by being used on spears and arrows.
3.ARUM MACULATUM
These flowers have needle-shaped crystals which irritate the skin, mouth, tongue and throat. They have the ability to swell the throat, making it hard to breathe and causing burning pain and an upset stomach. This plant also acts as an insect trap, with its fecal odor (charming!) and warm temperatures.
4.DATURA FLOWERS
These plants are known for causing delirious states and death.
So, if you're planning to visit Alnwick Castle (fun fact: it served as the setting for Hogwarts in the first two Harry Potter films) you can enter the Poison Garden if you dare—just be sure not to touch, taste, or even smell the plants (yes, visitors have fainted from inhaling toxic fumes before). "People think we're being overdramatic when we talk about not smelling the plants, but I've seen the health and safety reports," the Duchess said.
Located at Alnwick Castle in Northumberland, England, this lush, green gated patch is home to over 95 plants, all of which can kill you.
"We obviously have to maintain the garden, so we have to tend to the plants, and when we do that we have to be very careful of the way we operate, so we have to cover some of our skin when we deal with particularly dangerous plants," head gardener Trevor Jones said.
What's the story behind the Poison Garden, which opened in 2005? After visiting a similar one in Padua, Italy built by the Medici family, the Duchess of Northumberland decided that she wanted to start her own, since it was more interesting than your standard herb garden.
Here are some of the plants you would find in the Poison Garden, if you dared to enter:
1.GIANT HOGWEED
This plant can grow up to 14 feet or more, and can cause severe skin irritation, painful blistering, permanent scarring and even blindness.
2.ACONTIUM
Beautiful, right? But beware. These poisonous flowers were once used as poisonous arrows by the Aleuts of Alaska's Aleutian Islands for hunting whales. They also have a long history of killing enemies in battle by being used on spears and arrows.
3.ARUM MACULATUM
These flowers have needle-shaped crystals which irritate the skin, mouth, tongue and throat. They have the ability to swell the throat, making it hard to breathe and causing burning pain and an upset stomach. This plant also acts as an insect trap, with its fecal odor (charming!) and warm temperatures.
4.DATURA FLOWERS
These plants are known for causing delirious states and death.
So, if you're planning to visit Alnwick Castle (fun fact: it served as the setting for Hogwarts in the first two Harry Potter films) you can enter the Poison Garden if you dare—just be sure not to touch, taste, or even smell the plants (yes, visitors have fainted from inhaling toxic fumes before). "People think we're being overdramatic when we talk about not smelling the plants, but I've seen the health and safety reports," the Duchess said.
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文章
莹723
2021年01月06日
For some plants, including tropical crops like chillies and aubergines, an early start is the best way you’ll get them to produce a worthwhile crop.
However, early seed sowing will require some patience. Low light levels and high temperatures indoors can produce weak seedlings, prone to ‘damping off’. Prevent issues by thoroughly cleaning everything that will come into contact with seeds or seedlings. Use good peat-free seed compost – it’s worth spending a bit more for a good brand.
Discover 10 seeds to sow in January, below.
1.Pelargoniums
Flowers June to October/November.
Sow thinly in small seed trays using seed compost + 10 per cent grit; barely bury the seeds.
Temperature 24°C (75°F); germination takes 3-12 days.
2.Sweet peas
Flowers May/June to August.
Sow seeds 6cm deep in ‘tubes’ or 7cm pots using seed compost + 10 per cent grit.
Temperature 12°C (55°F), unheated greenhouse or cold frame; germination 10-14 days.
3.Dahlias
Flowers July to October/November.
Sow 1-2 seeds in cells or small pots using seed compost + 10 per cent vermiculite.
Temperature 18-21°C (65-70°F), germination takes approximately 5-20 days.
4.Delphinium
Flowers June and July.
Sow delphiniums thinly in trays of seed compost + 10 per cent vermiculite; barely cover with vermicul¬¬ite.
Temperature Keep in fridge for three weeks, then 15-21°C (59-70°F); germination takes 7-28 days.
5.Basil
Harvest May to October.
Sow thinly on the surface of pots or trays of seed compost; cover with vermiculite.
Temperature 15-25°C (59-77°F); germination takes 14-21 days depending on temperature.
6.Begonias, tuberous and bedding types
Flowers July to October/November.
Sow thinly on the surface in trays of seed compost with a thin layer of vermiculite.
Temperature 19-24°C (66-77°F); germination slow, 15-60 days, light essential.
7.Chillies and aubergines
Harvest July to October.
Sow 2-3 seeds thinly per small individual pot using seed compost + 10 per cent silver sand. Cover to own depth with vermiculite.
Temperature 21-27°C (70-80°F); germination 3-10 days.
8.Petunias
Flowers late June to September.
Sow thinly on the surface in small trays of seed compost + 10 per cent vermiculite and lightly dust with vermiculite to barely cover.
Temperature 24-27°C (75-80°F); germination 14 days, light essential.
9.Iceland poppies
Flowers June to October.
Sow 2-3 seeds on the surface of each small individual pot of seed compost + 20 per cent fine grit.
Temperature 12°C (55°F) in a cold frame; germination takes 14-21 days.
10.Coleus
Foliage display June onwards.
Sow thinly in pots or a tray using seed compost + 10 per cent vermiculite, covering to its own depth.
Temperature 19-24°C (65-75°F); germination 10-20 days depending on temperature.
Early sowing dos and don’ts
• Do clean everything that will come into contact with seeds or seedlings, including pots, dibbers and drip trays
• Do use new compost. It needs to drain freely yet hold just enough moisture – peat-free seed compost is ideal
• Do reserve a bright, warm windowsill for sowing, where the temperature stays fairly steady
• Do sow seeds even more thinly than usual, so that seedlings will have space to grow – overcrowding will encourage damping off
• Do give germinating seeds plenty of air by opening ventilators even if it seems a waste of heat
• Do wipe away condensation in propagators once or twice daily
• Do check seeds and seedlings daily, so that you can take remedial action before problems develop
• Don’t use too much heat – results are a bit slower but there’s less risk of legginess and more damping off
However, early seed sowing will require some patience. Low light levels and high temperatures indoors can produce weak seedlings, prone to ‘damping off’. Prevent issues by thoroughly cleaning everything that will come into contact with seeds or seedlings. Use good peat-free seed compost – it’s worth spending a bit more for a good brand.
Discover 10 seeds to sow in January, below.
1.Pelargoniums
Flowers June to October/November.
Sow thinly in small seed trays using seed compost + 10 per cent grit; barely bury the seeds.
Temperature 24°C (75°F); germination takes 3-12 days.
2.Sweet peas
Flowers May/June to August.
Sow seeds 6cm deep in ‘tubes’ or 7cm pots using seed compost + 10 per cent grit.
Temperature 12°C (55°F), unheated greenhouse or cold frame; germination 10-14 days.
3.Dahlias
Flowers July to October/November.
Sow 1-2 seeds in cells or small pots using seed compost + 10 per cent vermiculite.
Temperature 18-21°C (65-70°F), germination takes approximately 5-20 days.
4.Delphinium
Flowers June and July.
Sow delphiniums thinly in trays of seed compost + 10 per cent vermiculite; barely cover with vermicul¬¬ite.
Temperature Keep in fridge for three weeks, then 15-21°C (59-70°F); germination takes 7-28 days.
5.Basil
Harvest May to October.
Sow thinly on the surface of pots or trays of seed compost; cover with vermiculite.
Temperature 15-25°C (59-77°F); germination takes 14-21 days depending on temperature.
6.Begonias, tuberous and bedding types
Flowers July to October/November.
Sow thinly on the surface in trays of seed compost with a thin layer of vermiculite.
Temperature 19-24°C (66-77°F); germination slow, 15-60 days, light essential.
7.Chillies and aubergines
Harvest July to October.
Sow 2-3 seeds thinly per small individual pot using seed compost + 10 per cent silver sand. Cover to own depth with vermiculite.
Temperature 21-27°C (70-80°F); germination 3-10 days.
8.Petunias
Flowers late June to September.
Sow thinly on the surface in small trays of seed compost + 10 per cent vermiculite and lightly dust with vermiculite to barely cover.
Temperature 24-27°C (75-80°F); germination 14 days, light essential.
9.Iceland poppies
Flowers June to October.
Sow 2-3 seeds on the surface of each small individual pot of seed compost + 20 per cent fine grit.
Temperature 12°C (55°F) in a cold frame; germination takes 14-21 days.
10.Coleus
Foliage display June onwards.
Sow thinly in pots or a tray using seed compost + 10 per cent vermiculite, covering to its own depth.
Temperature 19-24°C (65-75°F); germination 10-20 days depending on temperature.
Early sowing dos and don’ts
• Do clean everything that will come into contact with seeds or seedlings, including pots, dibbers and drip trays
• Do use new compost. It needs to drain freely yet hold just enough moisture – peat-free seed compost is ideal
• Do reserve a bright, warm windowsill for sowing, where the temperature stays fairly steady
• Do sow seeds even more thinly than usual, so that seedlings will have space to grow – overcrowding will encourage damping off
• Do give germinating seeds plenty of air by opening ventilators even if it seems a waste of heat
• Do wipe away condensation in propagators once or twice daily
• Do check seeds and seedlings daily, so that you can take remedial action before problems develop
• Don’t use too much heat – results are a bit slower but there’s less risk of legginess and more damping off
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文章
莹723
2020年12月10日
With these cheery, brilliantly colored plants in your home, it will feel like Christmas everyday! In the wild, they typically bloom in December, which made them a natural to become a Christmas plant. With the right care, you will enjoy your plant in bloom for six weeks to two months. They also come in a myriad of types including some speckles or in fun shades of pink, green, oranges, yellows, and plum!
Here’s what else you should know to enjoy your poinsettia all season long.
1.Pick the right plant.
Look for plants that have tightly-closed tiny yellow flowers in the middle. They should be greenish. As they open, they turn yellow. Avoid any that are shedding pollen, which means it’s past its prime.
2.Protect your plant on the trip home.
Cover your plant when bringing it home, especially if it’s below 40 degrees. Most nurseries will provide a plastic sleeve, but, if not, cover it with a bag. And don’t let it sit in the chilly car while you run errands!
3.Give your poinsettia a sunny window.
Poinsettias are tropical so they love light and will tolerate full sun. And they’ll put up with almost any kind of light. In a very dark corner, however, they do tend to stretch and become leggy.
4.Keep your poinsettia watered.
Poinsettias prefer consistent, light moisture. Add a cup or so of water every two to three days. Dump out any water that sits in the saucer or foil cover. The biggest mistake is to let them dry out for a day or so. The plant will begin dropping leaves to try to save its root system.
5.Are poinsettias toxic?
If a stem is broken, poinsettias do emit a white, milky sap which can be irritating to mouths or skin if not washed off. And if your pet eats pieces of poinsettia, he or she will likely have GI upset and nothing worse (but always call your vet if you're worried!). Like any plant, it's still best to keep them out of the reach of curious pets and kids if there’s a risk they’ll take a nibble.
6.Should you save your poinsettia for next year?
In warm climates, you can plant them outdoors. But for most of the country, poinsettias are notoriously finicky about reblooming. If you want to try, keep it in your sunniest window, maintain moisture, and place it outdoors after all risk of frost is past. Then in fall, bring it indoors and give it 12 hours of absolute darkness (not even exposed to a night light!) each night.
Here’s what else you should know to enjoy your poinsettia all season long.
1.Pick the right plant.
Look for plants that have tightly-closed tiny yellow flowers in the middle. They should be greenish. As they open, they turn yellow. Avoid any that are shedding pollen, which means it’s past its prime.
2.Protect your plant on the trip home.
Cover your plant when bringing it home, especially if it’s below 40 degrees. Most nurseries will provide a plastic sleeve, but, if not, cover it with a bag. And don’t let it sit in the chilly car while you run errands!
3.Give your poinsettia a sunny window.
Poinsettias are tropical so they love light and will tolerate full sun. And they’ll put up with almost any kind of light. In a very dark corner, however, they do tend to stretch and become leggy.
4.Keep your poinsettia watered.
Poinsettias prefer consistent, light moisture. Add a cup or so of water every two to three days. Dump out any water that sits in the saucer or foil cover. The biggest mistake is to let them dry out for a day or so. The plant will begin dropping leaves to try to save its root system.
5.Are poinsettias toxic?
If a stem is broken, poinsettias do emit a white, milky sap which can be irritating to mouths or skin if not washed off. And if your pet eats pieces of poinsettia, he or she will likely have GI upset and nothing worse (but always call your vet if you're worried!). Like any plant, it's still best to keep them out of the reach of curious pets and kids if there’s a risk they’ll take a nibble.
6.Should you save your poinsettia for next year?
In warm climates, you can plant them outdoors. But for most of the country, poinsettias are notoriously finicky about reblooming. If you want to try, keep it in your sunniest window, maintain moisture, and place it outdoors after all risk of frost is past. Then in fall, bring it indoors and give it 12 hours of absolute darkness (not even exposed to a night light!) each night.
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文章
莹723
2020年11月04日
Bottle gardens, or terrariums, are enjoying a revival, and they’re easy to create.The key is to combine small plants that thrive in similar growing conditions – usually either damp shade or drought.
You can plant a bottle garden in virtually any glass vessel, though closed ones are best for moisture lovers and open ones best for plants used to drier conditions. Don’t worry if you can’t find what we used – look in charity shops, garden centres, your kitchen cupboard or on the internet for something that appeals.
You Will Need
•Vintage glass bottle
•Horticultural grit
•Peat free houseplant compost
•Moss, (from the lawn)
•Spathiphyllum 'Chopin'
•Fittonia verschaffeltii
•Syngonium 'White Butterfly'
•Chlorophytum comosum 'Ocean'
•Peperomia rotundifolia
Total time:
20 minutes
Step 1
Put 5cm of horticultural grit in the bottom of the bottle for drainage. Add houseplant compost till the bottle is about a third full – breaking up any lumps with your hands. Choose lush foliage plants that thrive in low light and humidity.
Step 2
Position the plants one at a time, planting them as you would in a container – firm the compost around them. Fill gaps between plants with a layer of moss.
Step 3
Water sparingly down the sides of the bottle as the curved sides will prevent a lot of evaporation. Ensure the compost doesn’t dry out or become saturated with water. Place in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
Alternative plants for a bottle garden
• Maidenhair fern (Adiantum raddianum)
• Golden polypody (Phlebodium aureum)
• Hares foot fern (Humata tyermannii)
• Mind-your-own-business (Soleirolia soleirolii)
• Centella (Centella asiatica)
• Cacti and succulents
You can plant a bottle garden in virtually any glass vessel, though closed ones are best for moisture lovers and open ones best for plants used to drier conditions. Don’t worry if you can’t find what we used – look in charity shops, garden centres, your kitchen cupboard or on the internet for something that appeals.
You Will Need
•Vintage glass bottle
•Horticultural grit
•Peat free houseplant compost
•Moss, (from the lawn)
•Spathiphyllum 'Chopin'
•Fittonia verschaffeltii
•Syngonium 'White Butterfly'
•Chlorophytum comosum 'Ocean'
•Peperomia rotundifolia
Total time:
20 minutes
Step 1
Put 5cm of horticultural grit in the bottom of the bottle for drainage. Add houseplant compost till the bottle is about a third full – breaking up any lumps with your hands. Choose lush foliage plants that thrive in low light and humidity.
Step 2
Position the plants one at a time, planting them as you would in a container – firm the compost around them. Fill gaps between plants with a layer of moss.
Step 3
Water sparingly down the sides of the bottle as the curved sides will prevent a lot of evaporation. Ensure the compost doesn’t dry out or become saturated with water. Place in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.
Alternative plants for a bottle garden
• Maidenhair fern (Adiantum raddianum)
• Golden polypody (Phlebodium aureum)
• Hares foot fern (Humata tyermannii)
• Mind-your-own-business (Soleirolia soleirolii)
• Centella (Centella asiatica)
• Cacti and succulents
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