文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月17日
Candy corn plant is a small semi-woody evergreen shrub that derives its name from the color and shape of the flowers, which closely mimic the familiar bulk candy by the same name. These are clumping plants with narrow leaves that cover upright red stems, from which bloom the yellow and red tubular flowers that resemble kernels of candy corn.
Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors
Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala
Common Name Candy corn plant
Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual
Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to fall
Flower Color Orange and yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA
Native Area Mexico
How to Grow Candy Corn Plants
Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms.
Light
Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms.
Soil
In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils.
Water
Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving.
Temperature and Humidity
As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates.
Fertilizer
Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants.
Propagating Candy Corn Plant
Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks.
If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location.
Pruning
Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring.
Growing in Containers
Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds
As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks.
Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine
Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant.
Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors
Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala
Common Name Candy corn plant
Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual
Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to fall
Flower Color Orange and yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA
Native Area Mexico
How to Grow Candy Corn Plants
Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms.
Light
Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms.
Soil
In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils.
Water
Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving.
Temperature and Humidity
As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates.
Fertilizer
Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants.
Propagating Candy Corn Plant
Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks.
If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location.
Pruning
Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring.
Growing in Containers
Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds
As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks.
Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine
Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant.
Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月07日
Calibrachoa, also known as million bells, is one of the most popular plants for growing outdoors in containers. It comes in a rainbow of colors, in solids and two-tones, stripes, patterns, and stunning double blooms. Calibrachoa is a prolific bloomer and produces 1-inch blossoms that resemble tiny petunias. The compact leaves are oval-shaped and a bit sticky.
In most growing zones, million bells is best planted or repotted in the spring. It can bloom continuously through the growing season, and its flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. It's also a fast grower and quickly reaches toward the ground as a "spiller" when grown as a container plant. Because of its trailing habit, it looks great in hanging baskets, bowls, or mixed containers.
Common Name Calibrachoa, million bells, trailing petunia, mini petunia
Botanical Name Calibrachoa group
Family Solanaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower often grown as an annual
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, rich, well-drained
Soil pH 5.0–6.5 (acidic)
Bloom Time Spring to fall
Flower Color Coral, yellow, orange, red, pink, blue, purple, burgundy, lavender, cream
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA); grown as an annual in all zones
Native Area South America
Calibrachoa Care
Although it is a short-lived perennial in very warm climates, Calibrachoa is grown almost everywhere as an annual. The plant is not hard to care for, but paying attention to its needs will keep it blooming from spring well into fall. While it can be planted in garden beds, the plant fares much better in containers.
This is considered a “self-cleaning” plant, meaning it doesn’t need to be deadheaded to keep blooming; however, it will benefit from a serious cutting back toward the end of summer. Deer don't seem very interested in Calibrachoa, although it is not classified as deer-resistant.
Light
The plant blooms best with at least six hours of full sun, but it can tolerate partial shade—especially in warmer areas, where plants that get some shade are likelier to survive through the summer months. Insufficient sun exposure typically results in reduced blooming.
Soil
Calibrachoa likes fast-draining potting soil, so make sure your pot has good drainage. When planting in garden beds, amend with organic material to ensure richness, and make sure the soil drains well. Mulch is recommended to keep the soil moist and the root system cool.
Water
Calibrachoa needs to be kept well hydrated but not water-logged. Add water only after the top inch or so of the soil dries out. To check if your plant needs water, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry at your fingertip, water deeply until it drains out of the bottom of your pot. Don’t water again until the soil dries out again.
Heat, wind, and lack of humidity can cause your soil to dry out quickly. Depending on your conditions, you may have to water as often as twice a day. Check the soil frequently, especially at the beginning of the season, until you get to know your plant's needs; watering requirements may change as the summer heats up. Take care not to overwater the plant, as this can encourage root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
The plant is pretty drought- and heat-tolerant, and even cold-tolerant, but to get the best blooms, don’t let it dry out repeatedly. It prefers temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. A hardened-off plant can be brought outdoors in the spring months and it can tolerate a mild frost. At the other end of the spectrum, hot weather and dryness can be stressful to the plant. You can revive wilted foliage with a daily misting, but be careful not to mist in direct sun, as this can burn the leaves.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder that can be fed with a slow-release fertilizer and/or a diluted liquid fertilizer regularly. For example, you can start with an organic, slow-release fertilizer mixed into your potting medium, and then give the plant a diluted liquid every couple of weeks throughout the season. Feeding is particularly necessary near the end of the season to promote late blooms. Be careful not to over-fertilize—follow the directions on the label of the plant food closely. Leaves turning light green or yellowish is a sign that the plant needs fertilizer, or possibly more sun.
Types of Calibrachoa
There are 28 different species in the Calibrachoa genus, but those used for garden cultivation are generally complicated hybrids derived from crossing various species. There are dozens of varieties of Calibrachoa available in a vast array of colors, including:
Calibrachoa 'Cabaret Hot Pink' produces loads of bright pink flowers on trailing stems up to 8 inches long.
C. 'Cabaret Purple Glow' grows 12 inches wide and trails to 8 inches.
C. 'Million Bells Terra Cotta' has orange flowers streaked with red and gold on stems trailing to 8 inches.
C. 'MiniFamous Double Blue' has double flowers of deep blue-purple on a trailing plant with 10-inch-long stems.
C. 'Superbells Pomegranate Punch' has velvety-red flowers that get darker toward the center and grows 8 inches tall.
C. 'Kabloom' is a series of hybrid plants that can be grown from seed and they are available in pink, white, red, yellow, and deep blue.
Propagating Calibrachoa
Calibrachoa plants grown in gardens are hybrids that produce few seeds. And because many of the varieties are trademarked hybrids, vegetative propagation through cuttings is technically illegal. If you do attempt to propagate through cuttings, the process is as follows:
Try to find a stem that has small buds but no flowers on it. Using a clean, sharp cutting tool, cut off the stem at least 6 inches from the tip, then remove any lower leaves.
Place your cuttings in an equal mix of half potting soil and half peat moss. Water well.
Set the pot under bright light, and keep the cuttings moist and warm (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Roots should begin to develop within a couple of weeks.
Potting and Repotting Calibrachoa
Most million bells plants are badly root-bound when you buy them—so much so that there is very little soil left in the pot. This means that your margin of error for watering is very slim and there isn’t much nutrition for the plants to use. If you repot the plant from its original container, be sure to loosen the root ball and add a slow-release fertilizer into a general-purpose potting mix. These are short-lived plants that won't require any more repotting. These spiller plants can live in a container of any material, but make sure there are plenty of drainage holes.
Common Pests
Calibrachoa plants are extremely susceptible to aphids. Spray aphids off the plant with water, a water and dish detergent mix, or neem oil.
Common Problems With Million Bells
Besides battling aphids, the most common problem you'll encounter with the otherwise easy-going Calibrachoa plant is yellowing leaves. There are a few reasons for yellowing leaves:
Iron deficiency (new growth will yellow)
Nitrogen deficiency (old growth will yellow)
Root rot
Root rot or mold infection can set in if these plants are overwatered. (Plants that wilt after watering may be suffering from root rot.) The best defense is to prevent these issues through good air circulation, proper water management, and good soil porosity.Light
The plant blooms best with at least six hours of full sun, but it can tolerate partial shade—especially in warmer areas, where plants that get some shade are likelier to survive through the summer months. Insufficient sun exposure typically results in reduced blooming.
Soil
Calibrachoa likes fast-draining potting soil, so make sure your pot has good drainage. When planting in garden beds, amend with organic material to ensure richness, and make sure the soil drains well. Mulch is recommended to keep the soil moist and the root system cool.
Water
Calibrachoa needs to be kept well hydrated but not water-logged. Add water only after the top inch or so of the soil dries out. To check if your plant needs water, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry at your fingertip, water deeply until it drains out of the bottom of your pot. Don’t water again until the soil dries out again.
Heat, wind, and lack of humidity can cause your soil to dry out quickly. Depending on your conditions, you may have to water as often as twice a day. Check the soil frequently, especially at the beginning of the season, until you get to know your plant's needs; watering requirements may change as the summer heats up. Take care not to overwater the plant, as this can encourage root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
The plant is pretty drought- and heat-tolerant, and even cold-tolerant, but to get the best blooms, don’t let it dry out repeatedly. It prefers temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. A hardened-off plant can be brought outdoors in the spring months and it can tolerate a mild frost. At the other end of the spectrum, hot weather and dryness can be stressful to the plant. You can revive wilted foliage with a daily misting, but be careful not to mist in direct sun, as this can burn the leaves.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder that can be fed with a slow-release fertilizer and/or a diluted liquid fertilizer regularly. For example, you can start with an organic, slow-release fertilizer mixed into your potting medium, and then give the plant a diluted liquid every couple of weeks throughout the season. Feeding is particularly necessary near the end of the season to promote late blooms. Be careful not to over-fertilize—follow the directions on the label of the plant food closely. Leaves turning light green or yellowish is a sign that the plant needs fertilizer, or possibly more sun.
Types of Calibrachoa
There are 28 different species in the Calibrachoa genus, but those used for garden cultivation are generally complicated hybrids derived from crossing various species. There are dozens of varieties of Calibrachoa available in a vast array of colors, including:
Calibrachoa 'Cabaret Hot Pink' produces loads of bright pink flowers on trailing stems up to 8 inches long.
C. 'Cabaret Purple Glow' grows 12 inches wide and trails to 8 inches.
C. 'Million Bells Terra Cotta' has orange flowers streaked with red and gold on stems trailing to 8 inches.
C. 'MiniFamous Double Blue' has double flowers of deep blue-purple on a trailing plant with 10-inch-long stems.
C. 'Superbells Pomegranate Punch' has velvety-red flowers that get darker toward the center and grows 8 inches tall.
C. 'Kabloom' is a series of hybrid plants that can be grown from seed and they are available in pink, white, red, yellow, and deep blue.
Propagating Calibrachoa
Calibrachoa plants grown in gardens are hybrids that produce few seeds. And because many of the varieties are trademarked hybrids, vegetative propagation through cuttings is technically illegal. If you do attempt to propagate through cuttings, the process is as follows:
Try to find a stem that has small buds but no flowers on it. Using a clean, sharp cutting tool, cut off the stem at least 6 inches from the tip, then remove any lower leaves.
Place your cuttings in an equal mix of half potting soil and half peat moss. Water well.
Set the pot under bright light, and keep the cuttings moist and warm (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Roots should begin to develop within a couple of weeks.
Potting and Repotting Calibrachoa
Most million bells plants are badly root-bound when you buy them—so much so that there is very little soil left in the pot. This means that your margin of error for watering is very slim and there isn’t much nutrition for the plants to use. If you repot the plant from its original container, be sure to loosen the root ball and add a slow-release fertilizer into a general-purpose potting mix. These are short-lived plants that won't require any more repotting. These spiller plants can live in a container of any material, but make sure there are plenty of drainage holes.
Common Pests
Calibrachoa plants are extremely susceptible to aphids. Spray aphids off the plant with water, a water and dish detergent mix, or neem oil.
Common Problems With Million Bells
Besides battling aphids, the most common problem you'll encounter with the otherwise easy-going Calibrachoa plant is yellowing leaves. There are a few reasons for yellowing leaves:
Iron deficiency (new growth will yellow)
Nitrogen deficiency (old growth will yellow)
Root rot
Root rot or mold infection can set in if these plants are overwatered. (Plants that wilt after watering may be suffering from root rot.) The best defense is to prevent these issues through good air circulation, proper water management, and good soil porosity.
In most growing zones, million bells is best planted or repotted in the spring. It can bloom continuously through the growing season, and its flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. It's also a fast grower and quickly reaches toward the ground as a "spiller" when grown as a container plant. Because of its trailing habit, it looks great in hanging baskets, bowls, or mixed containers.
Common Name Calibrachoa, million bells, trailing petunia, mini petunia
Botanical Name Calibrachoa group
Family Solanaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower often grown as an annual
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, rich, well-drained
Soil pH 5.0–6.5 (acidic)
Bloom Time Spring to fall
Flower Color Coral, yellow, orange, red, pink, blue, purple, burgundy, lavender, cream
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA); grown as an annual in all zones
Native Area South America
Calibrachoa Care
Although it is a short-lived perennial in very warm climates, Calibrachoa is grown almost everywhere as an annual. The plant is not hard to care for, but paying attention to its needs will keep it blooming from spring well into fall. While it can be planted in garden beds, the plant fares much better in containers.
This is considered a “self-cleaning” plant, meaning it doesn’t need to be deadheaded to keep blooming; however, it will benefit from a serious cutting back toward the end of summer. Deer don't seem very interested in Calibrachoa, although it is not classified as deer-resistant.
Light
The plant blooms best with at least six hours of full sun, but it can tolerate partial shade—especially in warmer areas, where plants that get some shade are likelier to survive through the summer months. Insufficient sun exposure typically results in reduced blooming.
Soil
Calibrachoa likes fast-draining potting soil, so make sure your pot has good drainage. When planting in garden beds, amend with organic material to ensure richness, and make sure the soil drains well. Mulch is recommended to keep the soil moist and the root system cool.
Water
Calibrachoa needs to be kept well hydrated but not water-logged. Add water only after the top inch or so of the soil dries out. To check if your plant needs water, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry at your fingertip, water deeply until it drains out of the bottom of your pot. Don’t water again until the soil dries out again.
Heat, wind, and lack of humidity can cause your soil to dry out quickly. Depending on your conditions, you may have to water as often as twice a day. Check the soil frequently, especially at the beginning of the season, until you get to know your plant's needs; watering requirements may change as the summer heats up. Take care not to overwater the plant, as this can encourage root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
The plant is pretty drought- and heat-tolerant, and even cold-tolerant, but to get the best blooms, don’t let it dry out repeatedly. It prefers temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. A hardened-off plant can be brought outdoors in the spring months and it can tolerate a mild frost. At the other end of the spectrum, hot weather and dryness can be stressful to the plant. You can revive wilted foliage with a daily misting, but be careful not to mist in direct sun, as this can burn the leaves.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder that can be fed with a slow-release fertilizer and/or a diluted liquid fertilizer regularly. For example, you can start with an organic, slow-release fertilizer mixed into your potting medium, and then give the plant a diluted liquid every couple of weeks throughout the season. Feeding is particularly necessary near the end of the season to promote late blooms. Be careful not to over-fertilize—follow the directions on the label of the plant food closely. Leaves turning light green or yellowish is a sign that the plant needs fertilizer, or possibly more sun.
Types of Calibrachoa
There are 28 different species in the Calibrachoa genus, but those used for garden cultivation are generally complicated hybrids derived from crossing various species. There are dozens of varieties of Calibrachoa available in a vast array of colors, including:
Calibrachoa 'Cabaret Hot Pink' produces loads of bright pink flowers on trailing stems up to 8 inches long.
C. 'Cabaret Purple Glow' grows 12 inches wide and trails to 8 inches.
C. 'Million Bells Terra Cotta' has orange flowers streaked with red and gold on stems trailing to 8 inches.
C. 'MiniFamous Double Blue' has double flowers of deep blue-purple on a trailing plant with 10-inch-long stems.
C. 'Superbells Pomegranate Punch' has velvety-red flowers that get darker toward the center and grows 8 inches tall.
C. 'Kabloom' is a series of hybrid plants that can be grown from seed and they are available in pink, white, red, yellow, and deep blue.
Propagating Calibrachoa
Calibrachoa plants grown in gardens are hybrids that produce few seeds. And because many of the varieties are trademarked hybrids, vegetative propagation through cuttings is technically illegal. If you do attempt to propagate through cuttings, the process is as follows:
Try to find a stem that has small buds but no flowers on it. Using a clean, sharp cutting tool, cut off the stem at least 6 inches from the tip, then remove any lower leaves.
Place your cuttings in an equal mix of half potting soil and half peat moss. Water well.
Set the pot under bright light, and keep the cuttings moist and warm (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Roots should begin to develop within a couple of weeks.
Potting and Repotting Calibrachoa
Most million bells plants are badly root-bound when you buy them—so much so that there is very little soil left in the pot. This means that your margin of error for watering is very slim and there isn’t much nutrition for the plants to use. If you repot the plant from its original container, be sure to loosen the root ball and add a slow-release fertilizer into a general-purpose potting mix. These are short-lived plants that won't require any more repotting. These spiller plants can live in a container of any material, but make sure there are plenty of drainage holes.
Common Pests
Calibrachoa plants are extremely susceptible to aphids. Spray aphids off the plant with water, a water and dish detergent mix, or neem oil.
Common Problems With Million Bells
Besides battling aphids, the most common problem you'll encounter with the otherwise easy-going Calibrachoa plant is yellowing leaves. There are a few reasons for yellowing leaves:
Iron deficiency (new growth will yellow)
Nitrogen deficiency (old growth will yellow)
Root rot
Root rot or mold infection can set in if these plants are overwatered. (Plants that wilt after watering may be suffering from root rot.) The best defense is to prevent these issues through good air circulation, proper water management, and good soil porosity.Light
The plant blooms best with at least six hours of full sun, but it can tolerate partial shade—especially in warmer areas, where plants that get some shade are likelier to survive through the summer months. Insufficient sun exposure typically results in reduced blooming.
Soil
Calibrachoa likes fast-draining potting soil, so make sure your pot has good drainage. When planting in garden beds, amend with organic material to ensure richness, and make sure the soil drains well. Mulch is recommended to keep the soil moist and the root system cool.
Water
Calibrachoa needs to be kept well hydrated but not water-logged. Add water only after the top inch or so of the soil dries out. To check if your plant needs water, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry at your fingertip, water deeply until it drains out of the bottom of your pot. Don’t water again until the soil dries out again.
Heat, wind, and lack of humidity can cause your soil to dry out quickly. Depending on your conditions, you may have to water as often as twice a day. Check the soil frequently, especially at the beginning of the season, until you get to know your plant's needs; watering requirements may change as the summer heats up. Take care not to overwater the plant, as this can encourage root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
The plant is pretty drought- and heat-tolerant, and even cold-tolerant, but to get the best blooms, don’t let it dry out repeatedly. It prefers temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. A hardened-off plant can be brought outdoors in the spring months and it can tolerate a mild frost. At the other end of the spectrum, hot weather and dryness can be stressful to the plant. You can revive wilted foliage with a daily misting, but be careful not to mist in direct sun, as this can burn the leaves.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder that can be fed with a slow-release fertilizer and/or a diluted liquid fertilizer regularly. For example, you can start with an organic, slow-release fertilizer mixed into your potting medium, and then give the plant a diluted liquid every couple of weeks throughout the season. Feeding is particularly necessary near the end of the season to promote late blooms. Be careful not to over-fertilize—follow the directions on the label of the plant food closely. Leaves turning light green or yellowish is a sign that the plant needs fertilizer, or possibly more sun.
Types of Calibrachoa
There are 28 different species in the Calibrachoa genus, but those used for garden cultivation are generally complicated hybrids derived from crossing various species. There are dozens of varieties of Calibrachoa available in a vast array of colors, including:
Calibrachoa 'Cabaret Hot Pink' produces loads of bright pink flowers on trailing stems up to 8 inches long.
C. 'Cabaret Purple Glow' grows 12 inches wide and trails to 8 inches.
C. 'Million Bells Terra Cotta' has orange flowers streaked with red and gold on stems trailing to 8 inches.
C. 'MiniFamous Double Blue' has double flowers of deep blue-purple on a trailing plant with 10-inch-long stems.
C. 'Superbells Pomegranate Punch' has velvety-red flowers that get darker toward the center and grows 8 inches tall.
C. 'Kabloom' is a series of hybrid plants that can be grown from seed and they are available in pink, white, red, yellow, and deep blue.
Propagating Calibrachoa
Calibrachoa plants grown in gardens are hybrids that produce few seeds. And because many of the varieties are trademarked hybrids, vegetative propagation through cuttings is technically illegal. If you do attempt to propagate through cuttings, the process is as follows:
Try to find a stem that has small buds but no flowers on it. Using a clean, sharp cutting tool, cut off the stem at least 6 inches from the tip, then remove any lower leaves.
Place your cuttings in an equal mix of half potting soil and half peat moss. Water well.
Set the pot under bright light, and keep the cuttings moist and warm (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Roots should begin to develop within a couple of weeks.
Potting and Repotting Calibrachoa
Most million bells plants are badly root-bound when you buy them—so much so that there is very little soil left in the pot. This means that your margin of error for watering is very slim and there isn’t much nutrition for the plants to use. If you repot the plant from its original container, be sure to loosen the root ball and add a slow-release fertilizer into a general-purpose potting mix. These are short-lived plants that won't require any more repotting. These spiller plants can live in a container of any material, but make sure there are plenty of drainage holes.
Common Pests
Calibrachoa plants are extremely susceptible to aphids. Spray aphids off the plant with water, a water and dish detergent mix, or neem oil.
Common Problems With Million Bells
Besides battling aphids, the most common problem you'll encounter with the otherwise easy-going Calibrachoa plant is yellowing leaves. There are a few reasons for yellowing leaves:
Iron deficiency (new growth will yellow)
Nitrogen deficiency (old growth will yellow)
Root rot
Root rot or mold infection can set in if these plants are overwatered. (Plants that wilt after watering may be suffering from root rot.) The best defense is to prevent these issues through good air circulation, proper water management, and good soil porosity.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月03日
Calathea are a tropical species that are popular houseplant additions because of the bold markings on their abundant foliage. They are also called peacock, zebra, or rattlesnake plants, referring to their decorative leaves resembling characteristics from those animals. In their native habitat, calathea species are known for their striking inflorescences. But they rarely flower indoors when grown as houseplants. It's best to divide and transplant this species in spring or summer.
The variegated foliage of the calathea 'White Fusion' cultivar features a leaf top side with contrasting white markings alongside the green. The underside has a pretty light purple-pinkish hue that runs down the stems. Although their care can be a little more particular than some houseplants, once you get it right, you will be rewarded with an eye-catching display of foliage that grows profusely and quickly.
Common Name Calathea 'White Fusion'
Botanical Name Calathea lietzei
Family Marantaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial
Mature Size Up to 2 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Moist, Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, purple, white
Hardiness Zones 11-12, USA
Native Area South America
Calathea Care
Calathea can be rather specific regarding their care requirements, and calathea 'White Fusion' is no exception. These plants like moisture, but not excessive amounts, sun is good, but not too much, and extreme temperatures need to be avoided.
You should regularly wipe down the calathea 'White Fusion' large leaves to remove dust. Removing dust from leaves allows the plant to breathe well. Don't use any leaf shine products; they can cause damage. Don't panic if you see an infrequent, small amount of discoloration or brown tips is to be expected; the foliage on this cultivar is delicate.
Light
Finding the right light level for your plant is one of the most critical care elements for your calathea 'White Fusion.' The wrong light level may cause poor development of the variegation on the plant. This plant needs filtered bright light. Too much light can cause the markings to fade and leaf curling; too shady a position and the markings won't develop properly in the first place.
Soil
Mixes recommended for African violets are often well-suited to calathea cultivars like 'White Fusion' as they retain moisture well and drain excess water. You can make a peaty, airy, lightweight potting mix by combining orchard bark, perlite, and standard potting soil.
Water
The calathea 'White Fusion' prefers to be consistently moist, but soggy and waterlogged conditions are a recipe for disaster. These plants like high humidity, but overly wet soils can lead to root rot and bacterial and fungal issues. Ensure the plant's pot has suitable drainage holes. Water thoroughly, but make sure the water drains out the bottom and does not pool in a collection plate.
Once the top inch of soil is dry, this is usually a good indicator that your plant needs more water. In the summer, you'll likely water once a week. Since the plant slows down its growth in the winter, it will require less water, probably only needing water every two weeks. Use the finger test to check the first inch of soil for moisture, but crisping leaves indicate that your plant is overly dry.
Many enthusiasts chose to use collected rainwater or distilled water for their calathea since this plant can be sensitive to chemicals in the water. Still, room temperature tap water is fine.
Temperature and Humidity
Avoid temperature extremes. Tropical species like calathea like humidity in their environment. Although they like warmer temperatures, sweltering heat can be too much for this plant. For example, if you heat your home all day in the winter but stop heating it at night, this sudden change can shock your plant. Also, the drying conditions from heating units can be a problem in decimating humidity levels.
If retaining humidity around the plant is a concern, you can sit the plant pot on top of a tray with some pebbles. Any water that drains out and collects in the pebbles will eventually evaporate and increase humidity levels without soaking the plant's roots. Or, you could invest in a humidifier, mainly if you are a collector of various tropical houseplants. Also, keep your calathea 'White Fusion' out of direct drafts but strike a balance by providing decent ventilation.
Fertilizer
Your calathea 'White Fusion' will appreciate a monthly application of liquid fertilizer during its growth period—spring through fall; stop feeding in the winter. Pick fertilizer designed for houseplants with dense foliage, likely a type that is more nitrogen-rich. The plant will only need a weak dose or half the strength recommended on the fertilizer container.
Pruning
If your calathea 'White Fusion' has a few leaves that have browned or curled excessively, don't be afraid to cut these off at the stem. Prune any dead, dying, or damaged leaves as soon as you spot them and remove them from the soil. If your plant is healthy and given the care and conditions it needs, new leaves grow and fill in for the dead ones. Deadhead faded blooms.
Propagating Calathea 'White Fusion'
The best time of year to propagate this plant is during the spring or summer during its period of vigorous growth. It can be propagated by division, leaf node cutting, or sown seeds. Use root division only if the mother plant is healthy. Dividing your plant helps you maintain your plant's size and keep the plant thriving. Once you divide, it will immediately make the plant look less full, but you will have two full-looking plants in time. Here's how to divide your calathea:
You'll need a 3-inch pot, well-draining potting soil, a sterilized knife or trowel, and a clean, flat workspace.
Several days before you divide your plant, water it thoroughly.
Inspect the plant for offsets or new shoots. These are baby plants developed by the mother plant. You can isolate that one shoot, its roots, and replant it. Or, you can take the current mother plant and split it in half. Or, you can do both. The offset should be at least 7 inches tall.
To take the plant out of the pot, turn the pot upside down, keep your hand fanned out wide at the base, securing the plant and its root ball in your hand.
If you have offsets or pups on your workspace, pull out those separate roots first. If you want to divide your plant in half, take your clean knife or trowel and make a sharp, clean cut through the root system. Ensure that each half has part of the root system and each leaf is attached to a stem.
Replant the pup in a smaller container than the mother plant; use a 4- to 6-inch container to start.
Place the plant in a bright spot but not directly in the sun.
To propagate via leaf note cutting:
You'll need a 3-inch pot, well-draining potting soil, sterilized scissors or pruning snips, and a clean, flat workspace.
Find a leaf node—the place where new leaves shoot from the stem—and cut about an inch below it. Make sure you have a few leaves intact with that node.
Plant the cutting in well-draining potting soil. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Place the pot in a bright spot but not in direct sun.
In two weeks, roots will develop. Pull out the plant and its trailing roots and replant in a larger pot, about 2-inches larger.
How to Grow Calathea 'White Fusion' From Seed
To grow calathea from seed, use a moistened seed starting mix or well-draining potting soil. Plant the seed about 1/4-inch deep. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep in the soil's humidity and maintain warm soil. If the soil needs warming, use a heating pad to help spur germination.
Put the pot in a bright but indirectly lit location. It can take up to a month for the seeds to sprout. Once a seedling grows at least an inch tall, carefully lift the sprout, keeping its root structure intact. Replant into a larger container, at least 2-inches larger.
Potting and Repotting Calathea 'White Fusion'
Repot it once a year (or every two years) to replenish the soil. Calathea plants that get rootbound invite fungal infections that will kill the plant. Increase the size of the container an inch or two each time. If you tend to overwater your plants, get an unglazed terra cotta pot since it’s porous and allows water to evaporate through the walls. If you tend to forget to water your plants, you might want to get glazed clay, plastic, or fiberglass pots. Repot your plant in spring or early summer during its active growing season. Water it thoroughly the day or two before repotting; it lessens the stress on the plant.
Overwintering
All calathea plants are tropical and will not survive a frost or freezing winter. As the temperatures begin to cool, prepare to bring your plant indoors to a bright spot with indirect sun by getting the plant used to indoor life slowly—only two hours a day at first, then increase by an hour each day. Keep the plant away from drafts and heaters. Keep the humidity high around the plant and mist the plant, if necessary. Once the outdoor climate warms again, gradually reintroduce the plant to outdoor life by bringing the plant out for two hours a day, then increasing by an hour each day. Temperature shifts are shocking for this plant and may cause a few leaves to drop.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Because they prefer a high humidity environment, fungus gnats can occasionally be a problem for calathea 'White Fusion.' They won't do any significant damage, but they are unsightly and not particularly pleasant. Apply neem oil to the leaves as a natural deterrent. Other common pests include aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and scale. You can treat each with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
Calathea plants tend to get overwatered because they require high humidity, making them prone to bacterial or fungal infections. If your plant develops Pseudomonas leaf spot, looking like white splotches on the leaves, you will have to destroy the plant since there is no treatment for this bacterial infection; and it can spread to other plants. To reduce the risk of getting this disease again, do not water from overhead—water the soil only (not the leaves) or water from underneath.
Root rot is a fungal disease that causes rapidly yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and the base of the plant turns brown and rots. Take the plant out of the pot and inspect the roots below the soil line to treat root rot. Yellow roots are fine, but if browning, you must treat rotting roots immediately. Using sterile pruning snips or a knife, cut away any brown or mushy roots and discard them. Wash the pot in warm soapy water. Replace the soil with fresh, well-draining soil. Treat the place where the root was cut with an antifungal and plant it in the fresh soil. Keep the soil loose in the container so the roots can breathe.
How to Get Calathea 'White Fusion' to Bloom
Calathea 'White Fusion' produces small flowers when it reaches maturity, usually in the spring or summer. But when calathea are grown indoors, they very rarely bloom. If you replicate and maintain their ideal conditions indoors, then you might be rewarded with a bloom to let you know that you have figured out the secret to their growing success. However, the flowers are not much to look at and have no fragrance.
Common Problems With Calathea 'White Fusion'
Calathea plants of all types require a moderate amount of care. They are sensitive about their humidity, temperature, drafts, water level, and lighting. When any of these variables are out of balance, the plant becomes prone to growth issues or health problems.
Leaves Turning Brown
Leaves turn yellow, brown, or die when calathea white fusion is overwatered. Dead calathea white fusion leaves should be removed immediately so that the plant doesn't start to rot, smell bad, and invite fungus. The leaves of calathea 'White Fusion' may turn brown and droop or fall off if they are placed too close to a window or in direct sunlight. Move the plant further away from the window to protect the plant's delicate leaves.
Leaves Wilting or Drooping
When calatheas need more water, the leaves will wilt, curl, or droop downward from the main stalk. Increase water frequency or volume. You can also mist the plant's leaves or invest in a small humidifier to give the plant more moisture.
Leaf Patterns Disappearing
When this plant gets overexposed to the sun, it will produce more chlorophyll, making the green coloration in the leaf more dominant. Find a shadier spot with filtered or dappled light to fix this situation.
The variegated foliage of the calathea 'White Fusion' cultivar features a leaf top side with contrasting white markings alongside the green. The underside has a pretty light purple-pinkish hue that runs down the stems. Although their care can be a little more particular than some houseplants, once you get it right, you will be rewarded with an eye-catching display of foliage that grows profusely and quickly.
Common Name Calathea 'White Fusion'
Botanical Name Calathea lietzei
Family Marantaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial
Mature Size Up to 2 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Moist, Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, purple, white
Hardiness Zones 11-12, USA
Native Area South America
Calathea Care
Calathea can be rather specific regarding their care requirements, and calathea 'White Fusion' is no exception. These plants like moisture, but not excessive amounts, sun is good, but not too much, and extreme temperatures need to be avoided.
You should regularly wipe down the calathea 'White Fusion' large leaves to remove dust. Removing dust from leaves allows the plant to breathe well. Don't use any leaf shine products; they can cause damage. Don't panic if you see an infrequent, small amount of discoloration or brown tips is to be expected; the foliage on this cultivar is delicate.
Light
Finding the right light level for your plant is one of the most critical care elements for your calathea 'White Fusion.' The wrong light level may cause poor development of the variegation on the plant. This plant needs filtered bright light. Too much light can cause the markings to fade and leaf curling; too shady a position and the markings won't develop properly in the first place.
Soil
Mixes recommended for African violets are often well-suited to calathea cultivars like 'White Fusion' as they retain moisture well and drain excess water. You can make a peaty, airy, lightweight potting mix by combining orchard bark, perlite, and standard potting soil.
Water
The calathea 'White Fusion' prefers to be consistently moist, but soggy and waterlogged conditions are a recipe for disaster. These plants like high humidity, but overly wet soils can lead to root rot and bacterial and fungal issues. Ensure the plant's pot has suitable drainage holes. Water thoroughly, but make sure the water drains out the bottom and does not pool in a collection plate.
Once the top inch of soil is dry, this is usually a good indicator that your plant needs more water. In the summer, you'll likely water once a week. Since the plant slows down its growth in the winter, it will require less water, probably only needing water every two weeks. Use the finger test to check the first inch of soil for moisture, but crisping leaves indicate that your plant is overly dry.
Many enthusiasts chose to use collected rainwater or distilled water for their calathea since this plant can be sensitive to chemicals in the water. Still, room temperature tap water is fine.
Temperature and Humidity
Avoid temperature extremes. Tropical species like calathea like humidity in their environment. Although they like warmer temperatures, sweltering heat can be too much for this plant. For example, if you heat your home all day in the winter but stop heating it at night, this sudden change can shock your plant. Also, the drying conditions from heating units can be a problem in decimating humidity levels.
If retaining humidity around the plant is a concern, you can sit the plant pot on top of a tray with some pebbles. Any water that drains out and collects in the pebbles will eventually evaporate and increase humidity levels without soaking the plant's roots. Or, you could invest in a humidifier, mainly if you are a collector of various tropical houseplants. Also, keep your calathea 'White Fusion' out of direct drafts but strike a balance by providing decent ventilation.
Fertilizer
Your calathea 'White Fusion' will appreciate a monthly application of liquid fertilizer during its growth period—spring through fall; stop feeding in the winter. Pick fertilizer designed for houseplants with dense foliage, likely a type that is more nitrogen-rich. The plant will only need a weak dose or half the strength recommended on the fertilizer container.
Pruning
If your calathea 'White Fusion' has a few leaves that have browned or curled excessively, don't be afraid to cut these off at the stem. Prune any dead, dying, or damaged leaves as soon as you spot them and remove them from the soil. If your plant is healthy and given the care and conditions it needs, new leaves grow and fill in for the dead ones. Deadhead faded blooms.
Propagating Calathea 'White Fusion'
The best time of year to propagate this plant is during the spring or summer during its period of vigorous growth. It can be propagated by division, leaf node cutting, or sown seeds. Use root division only if the mother plant is healthy. Dividing your plant helps you maintain your plant's size and keep the plant thriving. Once you divide, it will immediately make the plant look less full, but you will have two full-looking plants in time. Here's how to divide your calathea:
You'll need a 3-inch pot, well-draining potting soil, a sterilized knife or trowel, and a clean, flat workspace.
Several days before you divide your plant, water it thoroughly.
Inspect the plant for offsets or new shoots. These are baby plants developed by the mother plant. You can isolate that one shoot, its roots, and replant it. Or, you can take the current mother plant and split it in half. Or, you can do both. The offset should be at least 7 inches tall.
To take the plant out of the pot, turn the pot upside down, keep your hand fanned out wide at the base, securing the plant and its root ball in your hand.
If you have offsets or pups on your workspace, pull out those separate roots first. If you want to divide your plant in half, take your clean knife or trowel and make a sharp, clean cut through the root system. Ensure that each half has part of the root system and each leaf is attached to a stem.
Replant the pup in a smaller container than the mother plant; use a 4- to 6-inch container to start.
Place the plant in a bright spot but not directly in the sun.
To propagate via leaf note cutting:
You'll need a 3-inch pot, well-draining potting soil, sterilized scissors or pruning snips, and a clean, flat workspace.
Find a leaf node—the place where new leaves shoot from the stem—and cut about an inch below it. Make sure you have a few leaves intact with that node.
Plant the cutting in well-draining potting soil. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Place the pot in a bright spot but not in direct sun.
In two weeks, roots will develop. Pull out the plant and its trailing roots and replant in a larger pot, about 2-inches larger.
How to Grow Calathea 'White Fusion' From Seed
To grow calathea from seed, use a moistened seed starting mix or well-draining potting soil. Plant the seed about 1/4-inch deep. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep in the soil's humidity and maintain warm soil. If the soil needs warming, use a heating pad to help spur germination.
Put the pot in a bright but indirectly lit location. It can take up to a month for the seeds to sprout. Once a seedling grows at least an inch tall, carefully lift the sprout, keeping its root structure intact. Replant into a larger container, at least 2-inches larger.
Potting and Repotting Calathea 'White Fusion'
Repot it once a year (or every two years) to replenish the soil. Calathea plants that get rootbound invite fungal infections that will kill the plant. Increase the size of the container an inch or two each time. If you tend to overwater your plants, get an unglazed terra cotta pot since it’s porous and allows water to evaporate through the walls. If you tend to forget to water your plants, you might want to get glazed clay, plastic, or fiberglass pots. Repot your plant in spring or early summer during its active growing season. Water it thoroughly the day or two before repotting; it lessens the stress on the plant.
Overwintering
All calathea plants are tropical and will not survive a frost or freezing winter. As the temperatures begin to cool, prepare to bring your plant indoors to a bright spot with indirect sun by getting the plant used to indoor life slowly—only two hours a day at first, then increase by an hour each day. Keep the plant away from drafts and heaters. Keep the humidity high around the plant and mist the plant, if necessary. Once the outdoor climate warms again, gradually reintroduce the plant to outdoor life by bringing the plant out for two hours a day, then increasing by an hour each day. Temperature shifts are shocking for this plant and may cause a few leaves to drop.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Because they prefer a high humidity environment, fungus gnats can occasionally be a problem for calathea 'White Fusion.' They won't do any significant damage, but they are unsightly and not particularly pleasant. Apply neem oil to the leaves as a natural deterrent. Other common pests include aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and scale. You can treat each with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
Calathea plants tend to get overwatered because they require high humidity, making them prone to bacterial or fungal infections. If your plant develops Pseudomonas leaf spot, looking like white splotches on the leaves, you will have to destroy the plant since there is no treatment for this bacterial infection; and it can spread to other plants. To reduce the risk of getting this disease again, do not water from overhead—water the soil only (not the leaves) or water from underneath.
Root rot is a fungal disease that causes rapidly yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and the base of the plant turns brown and rots. Take the plant out of the pot and inspect the roots below the soil line to treat root rot. Yellow roots are fine, but if browning, you must treat rotting roots immediately. Using sterile pruning snips or a knife, cut away any brown or mushy roots and discard them. Wash the pot in warm soapy water. Replace the soil with fresh, well-draining soil. Treat the place where the root was cut with an antifungal and plant it in the fresh soil. Keep the soil loose in the container so the roots can breathe.
How to Get Calathea 'White Fusion' to Bloom
Calathea 'White Fusion' produces small flowers when it reaches maturity, usually in the spring or summer. But when calathea are grown indoors, they very rarely bloom. If you replicate and maintain their ideal conditions indoors, then you might be rewarded with a bloom to let you know that you have figured out the secret to their growing success. However, the flowers are not much to look at and have no fragrance.
Common Problems With Calathea 'White Fusion'
Calathea plants of all types require a moderate amount of care. They are sensitive about their humidity, temperature, drafts, water level, and lighting. When any of these variables are out of balance, the plant becomes prone to growth issues or health problems.
Leaves Turning Brown
Leaves turn yellow, brown, or die when calathea white fusion is overwatered. Dead calathea white fusion leaves should be removed immediately so that the plant doesn't start to rot, smell bad, and invite fungus. The leaves of calathea 'White Fusion' may turn brown and droop or fall off if they are placed too close to a window or in direct sunlight. Move the plant further away from the window to protect the plant's delicate leaves.
Leaves Wilting or Drooping
When calatheas need more water, the leaves will wilt, curl, or droop downward from the main stalk. Increase water frequency or volume. You can also mist the plant's leaves or invest in a small humidifier to give the plant more moisture.
Leaf Patterns Disappearing
When this plant gets overexposed to the sun, it will produce more chlorophyll, making the green coloration in the leaf more dominant. Find a shadier spot with filtered or dappled light to fix this situation.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月29日
All cactus plants are members of the Cactaceae family, and there are thousands of species in all. There are two large groups of cacti grown as houseplants: desert cacti and forest cacti. Both are popular and familiar, and both can thrive indoors with relatively little maintenance. Cactus plants come in many sizes, but most indoor varieties are small to moderate,
Desert cacti are the more "traditional" cacti, usually covered with spines or hair and often growing in paddles, balls, or obelisks. Forest cacti grow in wooded areas, ranging from temperate forests to subtropical and tropical regions. The most well-known forest cacti may be the Christmas cactus, which is native to Brazil, and blooms in red, pink, purple, and even yellow. Both desert and forest cacti are slow-growing and boast beautiful blooms, but they have very different growing habits.
Botanical Name Cactaceae
Common Name Cactus, desert cactus, forest cactus
Plant Type Succulents (with some exceptions)
Mature Size Varies depending on variety
Sun Exposure Some direct sun; quantity varies depending on variety
Soil Type Well-draining, sandy soil
Soil pH 5.5-7
Bloom Time Varies
Flower Color Varies
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Deserts and rainforests around the world
Indoor Cactus Care
Desert cacti have a unique, stark beauty, and some of them feature the most beautiful flowers. Growing desert cacti is not difficult. These are among the toughest of all houseplants. There are dozens of kinds of desert cacti on the market and some species will bloom after three or four years in cultivation; others will take longer or never bloom indoors.
Forest cacti grow in tropical and subtropical regions throughout the world. They are often climbing or epiphytic plants that cling to trees and can make excellent hanging plants.
Light
Strong light is essential for healthy desert cacti, especially in the winter. Some species may scorch in direct summer sun if they haven't been hardened off first.
Forest cacti like bright, but not direct, sunlight. Move them outside during the summer.
Soil
Pot desert cactus into a fast-draining cacti mix. If one is not available, amend the regular potting soil with inorganic agents like sand or perlite to increase drainage and aeration. Cacti are slow-growing plants and will rarely need repotting. Also, remember that many species of cacti will bloom better when they are slightly under-potted.
For forest cactus, use a regular potting mix. Repot at the beginning of the growing season.
Water
In the spring and summer, when your desert cactus is actively growing and blooming or both, water whenever the compost begins to dry. During these waterings, make sure the plant is thoroughly watered. During the winter rest period, nearly cease watering. Only water if the plant begins to shrivel. The most common mistake with desert cacti is overwatering in the winter, which will cause rot either at the base of the plant or the tips of the growing areas. If the rot is advanced, it might be necessary to start new plants from cuttings or discard the whole plant.
Water your forest cactus as a normal houseplant during the summer months and when the buds begin to show. During the resting period, only water when the soil is dry to the touch. As with succulents and desert cacti, forest cactus should not be watered heavily during the rest period. Root rot will result. Advanced root rot can only be treated by taking new cuttings and starting over.
Temperature and Humidity
During the active growth period, desert cacti prefer hot, dry temperatures, ranging from 70-80 F In the winter, the plants prefer a cooler period, down to 55 F. In their desert habitats, many cacti are accustomed to very chilly nights. You must protect them from very cold winter drafts.
Forest cacti are somewhat less picky about temperature; during the growing season, they have a wide range, from 55-70 F. During the rest period, a colder spell of 50 F is essential.
Fertilizer
For desert cactus, use a cacti fertilizer during the growing season. Some growers have poor results with standard fertilizers, so it's probably worth it to seek out a specialized cacti fertilizer.
For forest cactus, fertilize during the growing season with a standard fertilizer. Reduce fertilizer during the growing season.
Indoor Cactus Varieties
'Bunny ear' has "bunny" shaped ears and white flowers. Bunny ear is a desert cactus.
'Old lady' has hair and plenty of spines, and looks like a pincushion. It's a desert cactus.
'Easter' offers bright, colorful blooms. Easter is a forest cactus.
'Star' features a star-shaped mound and yellow flowers. Star is a desert cactus.
Pruning
Most cacti don't need pruning, just the removal of dead or damaged growth with clean, sharp garden shears. We strongly suggest wearing protective gardening gloves while you perform this task.
Propagating Indoor Cactus Plants
If your cacti produce offshoots, you can propagate them. First, make sure you a have clean, sharp, sterile knife. Next, put on protective gloves to protect yourself: You do not want to get pierced by a cactus spine.
Slice off the offshoot as close to the base as possible. Let it sit in a dry place for a few days, giving it time to callus over the cut. Then, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and lay it flat on top of a good growing medium, we suggest potting mix for cacti and succulents, and mist often. Once it develops strong roots, it can be planted in its own pot.
How to Grow Indoor Cacti From Seed
Growing both desert and forest cactus plants from seed takes patience: these are very slow-growing plants. But if you insist, you can either collect seeds from a cactus that's bloomed or buy packaged seeds. The seeds may need to be stratified before planting.
Prepare a potting mix for cacti and succulents, filled with perlite and sand. Plant seeds as deep as they are wide, and cover with a thin later of either sand or the cacti potting mix. Water lightly, cover with plastic, and sit in a bright location (but not direct sun). Most cacti will germinate in about three weeks, and once they do you can remove the plastic covering during the day. In about six months, seedlings should be ready for their own pots.
Potting and Repotting Indoor Cactus Plants
Cacti should be repotted when they need fresh soil (most are fine being pot-bound). To repot both forest and desert cacti, start by putting on a pair of protective gloves. Remove your plant from its current pot, and use a clean trowel to loosen the roots. Fill the bottom of a terra-cotta pot with fast-draining cacti potting mix (for desert cacti), or regular potting mix (for forest cacti). Add your plant, spoon in the potting mix around the sides, and use a stick-shaped tool—a chopstick works—to push the soil down. Water lightly.
Common Pests and Diseases
All types of cactus can be prone to pests including mealybugs, scales, fungus gnats, and spider mites.1 In most cases, it's possible to carefully wash these pests off of plants using cotton swabs and water.
Desert cacti are the more "traditional" cacti, usually covered with spines or hair and often growing in paddles, balls, or obelisks. Forest cacti grow in wooded areas, ranging from temperate forests to subtropical and tropical regions. The most well-known forest cacti may be the Christmas cactus, which is native to Brazil, and blooms in red, pink, purple, and even yellow. Both desert and forest cacti are slow-growing and boast beautiful blooms, but they have very different growing habits.
Botanical Name Cactaceae
Common Name Cactus, desert cactus, forest cactus
Plant Type Succulents (with some exceptions)
Mature Size Varies depending on variety
Sun Exposure Some direct sun; quantity varies depending on variety
Soil Type Well-draining, sandy soil
Soil pH 5.5-7
Bloom Time Varies
Flower Color Varies
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Deserts and rainforests around the world
Indoor Cactus Care
Desert cacti have a unique, stark beauty, and some of them feature the most beautiful flowers. Growing desert cacti is not difficult. These are among the toughest of all houseplants. There are dozens of kinds of desert cacti on the market and some species will bloom after three or four years in cultivation; others will take longer or never bloom indoors.
Forest cacti grow in tropical and subtropical regions throughout the world. They are often climbing or epiphytic plants that cling to trees and can make excellent hanging plants.
Light
Strong light is essential for healthy desert cacti, especially in the winter. Some species may scorch in direct summer sun if they haven't been hardened off first.
Forest cacti like bright, but not direct, sunlight. Move them outside during the summer.
Soil
Pot desert cactus into a fast-draining cacti mix. If one is not available, amend the regular potting soil with inorganic agents like sand or perlite to increase drainage and aeration. Cacti are slow-growing plants and will rarely need repotting. Also, remember that many species of cacti will bloom better when they are slightly under-potted.
For forest cactus, use a regular potting mix. Repot at the beginning of the growing season.
Water
In the spring and summer, when your desert cactus is actively growing and blooming or both, water whenever the compost begins to dry. During these waterings, make sure the plant is thoroughly watered. During the winter rest period, nearly cease watering. Only water if the plant begins to shrivel. The most common mistake with desert cacti is overwatering in the winter, which will cause rot either at the base of the plant or the tips of the growing areas. If the rot is advanced, it might be necessary to start new plants from cuttings or discard the whole plant.
Water your forest cactus as a normal houseplant during the summer months and when the buds begin to show. During the resting period, only water when the soil is dry to the touch. As with succulents and desert cacti, forest cactus should not be watered heavily during the rest period. Root rot will result. Advanced root rot can only be treated by taking new cuttings and starting over.
Temperature and Humidity
During the active growth period, desert cacti prefer hot, dry temperatures, ranging from 70-80 F In the winter, the plants prefer a cooler period, down to 55 F. In their desert habitats, many cacti are accustomed to very chilly nights. You must protect them from very cold winter drafts.
Forest cacti are somewhat less picky about temperature; during the growing season, they have a wide range, from 55-70 F. During the rest period, a colder spell of 50 F is essential.
Fertilizer
For desert cactus, use a cacti fertilizer during the growing season. Some growers have poor results with standard fertilizers, so it's probably worth it to seek out a specialized cacti fertilizer.
For forest cactus, fertilize during the growing season with a standard fertilizer. Reduce fertilizer during the growing season.
Indoor Cactus Varieties
'Bunny ear' has "bunny" shaped ears and white flowers. Bunny ear is a desert cactus.
'Old lady' has hair and plenty of spines, and looks like a pincushion. It's a desert cactus.
'Easter' offers bright, colorful blooms. Easter is a forest cactus.
'Star' features a star-shaped mound and yellow flowers. Star is a desert cactus.
Pruning
Most cacti don't need pruning, just the removal of dead or damaged growth with clean, sharp garden shears. We strongly suggest wearing protective gardening gloves while you perform this task.
Propagating Indoor Cactus Plants
If your cacti produce offshoots, you can propagate them. First, make sure you a have clean, sharp, sterile knife. Next, put on protective gloves to protect yourself: You do not want to get pierced by a cactus spine.
Slice off the offshoot as close to the base as possible. Let it sit in a dry place for a few days, giving it time to callus over the cut. Then, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and lay it flat on top of a good growing medium, we suggest potting mix for cacti and succulents, and mist often. Once it develops strong roots, it can be planted in its own pot.
How to Grow Indoor Cacti From Seed
Growing both desert and forest cactus plants from seed takes patience: these are very slow-growing plants. But if you insist, you can either collect seeds from a cactus that's bloomed or buy packaged seeds. The seeds may need to be stratified before planting.
Prepare a potting mix for cacti and succulents, filled with perlite and sand. Plant seeds as deep as they are wide, and cover with a thin later of either sand or the cacti potting mix. Water lightly, cover with plastic, and sit in a bright location (but not direct sun). Most cacti will germinate in about three weeks, and once they do you can remove the plastic covering during the day. In about six months, seedlings should be ready for their own pots.
Potting and Repotting Indoor Cactus Plants
Cacti should be repotted when they need fresh soil (most are fine being pot-bound). To repot both forest and desert cacti, start by putting on a pair of protective gloves. Remove your plant from its current pot, and use a clean trowel to loosen the roots. Fill the bottom of a terra-cotta pot with fast-draining cacti potting mix (for desert cacti), or regular potting mix (for forest cacti). Add your plant, spoon in the potting mix around the sides, and use a stick-shaped tool—a chopstick works—to push the soil down. Water lightly.
Common Pests and Diseases
All types of cactus can be prone to pests including mealybugs, scales, fungus gnats, and spider mites.1 In most cases, it's possible to carefully wash these pests off of plants using cotton swabs and water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月09日
You might also know Common Cattails (Typha latifolia) as bulrushes. These perennial aquatic plants are widely associated with growing in shallow waters in boggy marshes and wetland areas across temperate regions in North America.
Cattails have an upright growth habit with basal leaves, a long, narrow upright stem, and a tall cylindrical inflorescence. With the right conditions, these plants can grow up to three meters tall. They have a rhizomatous root system and spread rapidly to form attractive thick clumps.
Cattails are monoecious, so the male and female flowers grow on the same plant. The male flowers, which are a shade of yellow, form at the top, and the female ones develop underneath in shades of green. The flowers appear during the summer, and in the fall, the tip of the stalk becomes bare when the male blooms drop off. The female flowers change to a brown shade, and this is when the iconic sausage-shaped spike is visible. It might be stretching it somewhat, but the common name from these plants comes from the fact that it could be said the mature flowering plant looks a bit like a kitties tail!
Cattails can spread rather aggressively, but aside from this, they are known to be a beneficial plant in their natural habitat. The tall, dense clumps provide cover and nutrition for wildlife. Birds often create nesting areas within cattail growing areas.
Over the years, cattail roots have also been used as a starchy food source and the stems have been harvested for making thatch materials, paper, furniture, headwear, and more. Known for being an effective biomass source, they are often added to compost heaps and used as fuel.
In garden landscapes, cattails are well suited to being grown around pounds, in water gardens, or in areas prone to flooding - they can easily grow in water up to ten inches deep. They can also be a good choice for erosion control on wet slopes, and they make a great privacy screen too. The attractive stems are frequently added to flower arrangements in fresh or dried form.
It's great that these plants are so easy-to-grow, but their fast spreading habit means they can quickly overtake the areas they are grown in. If you have limited space or are worried about them choking out other species, your cattails would be best kept in containers.
Botanical Name Typha latifolia
Common Name Common cattail, Broadleaf cattail, Bulrush
Plant Type Perennial, Herbaceous
Mature Size Up to 10 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade
Soil Type Moist
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Brown
Hardiness Zones 3 - 10, USA
Native Area Much of the Northern Hemisphere
Cattail Plant Care
With the right conditions, you can develop a cattail colony in no time at all. They are fast-growing and require little maintenance. They do, of course, need the right amount of moisture, though, and they can become invasive if not kept in check in bottomless containers or something similar. Their spreading rhizomes can be tough to get rid of once established. However, they are a great choice in boggy environments where other plants struggle to survive.
Light
Cattails need a full sun or partial shade position to thrive. They can't survive in full shade.
Soil
These plants benefit from a rich, loamy soil that contains plenty of organic matter. They can, however, grow in most soil types.
Water
As you would expect from a marshland species, cattails need a lot of moisture to thrive, and this is the most vital element of their care. The soil should be kept wet, and this is why they do best in areas where this can happen naturally. These plants can grow in standing water, with some reports suggesting they will still survive even if this is as much as two feet deep.
Temperature and Humidity
Cattails are most commonly found in temperate regions of North America, but they can also grow in subtropical and elevated tropical regions.
Although young shoots don't cope with frost well, established cattails can handle harsh winters in their dormant state.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing cattails isn't generally required or recommended.
Propagating Cattail Plants
Cattails can self-seed freely and spread through their rhizomes. These rhizomes also make it easy to propagate if you want to add a new cluster of plants to a different large landscape area. Young shoots can also be divided in the spring when they are between five and ten inches tall. Just make sure a decent amount of undamaged root is attached.
How to Grow Common Cattail Plants From Seed
If growing cattails from seeds, they need a lot of water for successful germination. They should be sown on the surface of the soil and kept very moist, to the point of being soggy.v
Cattails have an upright growth habit with basal leaves, a long, narrow upright stem, and a tall cylindrical inflorescence. With the right conditions, these plants can grow up to three meters tall. They have a rhizomatous root system and spread rapidly to form attractive thick clumps.
Cattails are monoecious, so the male and female flowers grow on the same plant. The male flowers, which are a shade of yellow, form at the top, and the female ones develop underneath in shades of green. The flowers appear during the summer, and in the fall, the tip of the stalk becomes bare when the male blooms drop off. The female flowers change to a brown shade, and this is when the iconic sausage-shaped spike is visible. It might be stretching it somewhat, but the common name from these plants comes from the fact that it could be said the mature flowering plant looks a bit like a kitties tail!
Cattails can spread rather aggressively, but aside from this, they are known to be a beneficial plant in their natural habitat. The tall, dense clumps provide cover and nutrition for wildlife. Birds often create nesting areas within cattail growing areas.
Over the years, cattail roots have also been used as a starchy food source and the stems have been harvested for making thatch materials, paper, furniture, headwear, and more. Known for being an effective biomass source, they are often added to compost heaps and used as fuel.
In garden landscapes, cattails are well suited to being grown around pounds, in water gardens, or in areas prone to flooding - they can easily grow in water up to ten inches deep. They can also be a good choice for erosion control on wet slopes, and they make a great privacy screen too. The attractive stems are frequently added to flower arrangements in fresh or dried form.
It's great that these plants are so easy-to-grow, but their fast spreading habit means they can quickly overtake the areas they are grown in. If you have limited space or are worried about them choking out other species, your cattails would be best kept in containers.
Botanical Name Typha latifolia
Common Name Common cattail, Broadleaf cattail, Bulrush
Plant Type Perennial, Herbaceous
Mature Size Up to 10 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade
Soil Type Moist
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Brown
Hardiness Zones 3 - 10, USA
Native Area Much of the Northern Hemisphere
Cattail Plant Care
With the right conditions, you can develop a cattail colony in no time at all. They are fast-growing and require little maintenance. They do, of course, need the right amount of moisture, though, and they can become invasive if not kept in check in bottomless containers or something similar. Their spreading rhizomes can be tough to get rid of once established. However, they are a great choice in boggy environments where other plants struggle to survive.
Light
Cattails need a full sun or partial shade position to thrive. They can't survive in full shade.
Soil
These plants benefit from a rich, loamy soil that contains plenty of organic matter. They can, however, grow in most soil types.
Water
As you would expect from a marshland species, cattails need a lot of moisture to thrive, and this is the most vital element of their care. The soil should be kept wet, and this is why they do best in areas where this can happen naturally. These plants can grow in standing water, with some reports suggesting they will still survive even if this is as much as two feet deep.
Temperature and Humidity
Cattails are most commonly found in temperate regions of North America, but they can also grow in subtropical and elevated tropical regions.
Although young shoots don't cope with frost well, established cattails can handle harsh winters in their dormant state.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing cattails isn't generally required or recommended.
Propagating Cattail Plants
Cattails can self-seed freely and spread through their rhizomes. These rhizomes also make it easy to propagate if you want to add a new cluster of plants to a different large landscape area. Young shoots can also be divided in the spring when they are between five and ten inches tall. Just make sure a decent amount of undamaged root is attached.
How to Grow Common Cattail Plants From Seed
If growing cattails from seeds, they need a lot of water for successful germination. They should be sown on the surface of the soil and kept very moist, to the point of being soggy.v
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月07日
If you are unfamiliar with Tillandsia or Tillys, as they are affectionately called by air plant aficionados, this article is going to introduce you to one of the genera’s most popular species.
Most plants of the genus are epiphytes, which means they grow on and take nutrients and moisture from other plants, rather than from the soil. Some plants in the genus do not even need another plant and can grow on constantly moving desert sand. This is definitely different from most people’s idea of how a plant grows. Most air plants are unique-looking and Tillandsia bulbosa is certainly a great example of this.
The bulbous air plant is an otherworldly looking species that features tendrils that appear from a prominent bulb at the base. This is, of course, where it gets both its botanical name and its common name.
The leaves of bulbousa are a dark green that turn a really lovely violet when the plant is ready to bloom. Don't expect a floral display every year, though, as it only flowers once in its lifetime. Once it blooms it then offsets pups and will clump or can be separated from the mother plant.
Air plants are normally easy to grow but bulbosa is especially easy as it has very relaxed watering needs. If you are interested in trying your hand at an air plant, this is the perfect starter option.
For people with a notoriously black thumb, who want to grow a plant in the worst way, air plants are the most sensible option, and Tillandsia bulbosa is really the best bet in succeeding with air plants.
Botanical Name Tillandsia bulbosa
Common Name Bulbous Air Plant
Plant Type perennial herbaceous
Mature Size 4–7 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light or part shade
Soil Type None
Soil pH None
Bloom Time Once per lifetime
Flower Color Violet
Hardiness Zones 9–11
Native Area Mexico, Central and South America
Tillandsia Bulbosa Care
Caring for Tillandsia bulbosa is extremely simple. Unlike most plants, the bulbosa will not need a container or soil. The vessel for displaying the air plant can be something as improvised as a found shell or a piece of driftwood. It can be suspended from a piece of wire or it can be placed in something as elaborate as a terrarium.
Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.
Most plants of the genus are epiphytes, which means they grow on and take nutrients and moisture from other plants, rather than from the soil. Some plants in the genus do not even need another plant and can grow on constantly moving desert sand. This is definitely different from most people’s idea of how a plant grows. Most air plants are unique-looking and Tillandsia bulbosa is certainly a great example of this.
The bulbous air plant is an otherworldly looking species that features tendrils that appear from a prominent bulb at the base. This is, of course, where it gets both its botanical name and its common name.
The leaves of bulbousa are a dark green that turn a really lovely violet when the plant is ready to bloom. Don't expect a floral display every year, though, as it only flowers once in its lifetime. Once it blooms it then offsets pups and will clump or can be separated from the mother plant.
Air plants are normally easy to grow but bulbosa is especially easy as it has very relaxed watering needs. If you are interested in trying your hand at an air plant, this is the perfect starter option.
For people with a notoriously black thumb, who want to grow a plant in the worst way, air plants are the most sensible option, and Tillandsia bulbosa is really the best bet in succeeding with air plants.
Botanical Name Tillandsia bulbosa
Common Name Bulbous Air Plant
Plant Type perennial herbaceous
Mature Size 4–7 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light or part shade
Soil Type None
Soil pH None
Bloom Time Once per lifetime
Flower Color Violet
Hardiness Zones 9–11
Native Area Mexico, Central and South America
Tillandsia Bulbosa Care
Caring for Tillandsia bulbosa is extremely simple. Unlike most plants, the bulbosa will not need a container or soil. The vessel for displaying the air plant can be something as improvised as a found shell or a piece of driftwood. It can be suspended from a piece of wire or it can be placed in something as elaborate as a terrarium.
Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月30日
Broom plants are small- to medium-sized shrubs with evergreen or deciduous foliage. Leaves are green and small, usually lanceolate. The two main species that share the common name Broom are Cytisus and Genista. Both look very similar. The main difference is Genistas are more tolerant of lime in water and soil. From the Fabaceae (legume) or Leguminosae (pea) family, broom plants bear pea-like flowers in shades of yellow as well as many others. It grows quickly in a lax, bushy habit. One quite common sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus syn. Genista racemosa) is often found along highways on the West Coast of the United States.
Some gardeners regard the broom plant to be an invasive weed, while others favor this attractive fast-spreading plant for its airy feel and scented summer blossoms, which attract many pollinators.
Botanical Name Cytisus spp. and Genista spp.
Common Names Broom, Broom Plant, Sweet Broom
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 5-6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained, loam, poor
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Yellow, cream, crimson, brown-red, orange, rose, mauve, lavender
Hardiness Zones 5-8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to cats, dogs, and humans
Broom Plant Care
Broom plants can be used in a variety of areas in your landscape thanks to their varying heights and colorful displays. For example, brooms will display pops of color in the spring and summer which can contrast nicely when planted in front of other green shrubs. Or, use taller varieties of broom plants as a hedge or border. The dwarf varieties of brooms look beautifully nestled as mass plantings in a rock garden.
v
Broom plants like workable, well-draining soil that's prepared in an open, sunny locations. The plants will tolerate wind, poor soil, and even rocks. This wild shrub will thrive throughout drought and cold for years to come.
Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.v
Some gardeners regard the broom plant to be an invasive weed, while others favor this attractive fast-spreading plant for its airy feel and scented summer blossoms, which attract many pollinators.
Botanical Name Cytisus spp. and Genista spp.
Common Names Broom, Broom Plant, Sweet Broom
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 5-6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained, loam, poor
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Yellow, cream, crimson, brown-red, orange, rose, mauve, lavender
Hardiness Zones 5-8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to cats, dogs, and humans
Broom Plant Care
Broom plants can be used in a variety of areas in your landscape thanks to their varying heights and colorful displays. For example, brooms will display pops of color in the spring and summer which can contrast nicely when planted in front of other green shrubs. Or, use taller varieties of broom plants as a hedge or border. The dwarf varieties of brooms look beautifully nestled as mass plantings in a rock garden.
v
Broom plants like workable, well-draining soil that's prepared in an open, sunny locations. The plants will tolerate wind, poor soil, and even rocks. This wild shrub will thrive throughout drought and cold for years to come.
Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.v
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月08日
Whether you know it as blue beard or blue mist, Caryopteris x clandonensis is one of the few plants that produce genuinely blue flowers. This plant originated as an accidental hybrid of C. incana and C. mongholica and has since been bred to produce several popular cultivars. The compact size and soft gray foliage make blue beard plants a good choice in any size garden.
Depending on the climate, these plants are grown either as deciduous shrubs or woody perennials that die back to the ground each winter. Growing from neat low mounds, the narrow silvery-gray leaves resemble those of willow. Ideally, the plant should be planted in the spring or fall, provided that your area doesn't get too cold. Clandonensis hybrids typically grow between 18 and 30 inches annually.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Pick the Perfect Front Door Color
Fun Fact
The plant's common names come from the hue of the flowers. The blue or purplish blooms, appearing are mid-to-late summer, are clustered in panicles above the foliage in small feathery puffs.
Botanical Name Caryopteris × clandonensis
Common Names Blue beard, blue mist
Plant Type Deciduous shrub or woody perennial
Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall with a similar spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Mid-to-late summer
Flower Color Blue, purple; pink cultivars available
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Parent species are native to East Asia
Blue Beard Care
The compact size and soft gray foliage make blue beard plants a good choice in any size garden. This is a versatile plant, equally at home in perennial borders, shrub borders, or as a small hedge plant. It is very effective planted in mass and is highly valued for its late summer flowers when few other shrubs are blooming.
Blue beard plants are low-maintenance—they tolerate both drought and shade, and they don't need much fertilizer, if any. However, like all other plants, blue beards have their preferences, so you should plant them in full sun and with medium-moisture soil if you want them to thrive.
Light
Caryopteris plants should be sited in full sun for best blooms. They will tolerate some shade, although flowering will be somewhat reduced. Blue beard may bloom later in the season when they are planted in a shady location.
Soil
Caryopteris prefers a medium-moisture, well-draining soil, though it tolerates fairly moist soil. It does not tolerate wet, poorly drained soils. They thrive best with a neutral soil pH, but will accept slightly acidic or slightly alkaline conditions.
Water
Blue bears are drought-tolerant, but water the plants regularly when young. Once established, they don’t require any supplemental watering unless you are having a particularly dry season.
Temperature and Humidity
Blue beard is reliably hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9; however, in the northern part of the range (zones 5 and 6), it may die back to ground level in winter. This is not a problem, though, because this is a fast-growing shrub that blooms on new growth from the current year.
Fertilizer
These plants are not heavy feeders, so some organic matter mixed into the planting hole should be all the food they need. Side dressing with compost is preferred over fertilizing Caryopteris plants. Too much fertilizer makes for a leafy plant with fewer blooms.
Varieties of Blue Beard
Caryopteris x clandonensis : The original hybrid is one of the hardiest forms available and still one of the most popular.
'Dark Knight': This variety has the darkest blue flowers, but it is a bit more temperamental to grow.
'Sunshine Blue': This cultivar has deep blue flowers offset by yellow foliage.
‘Pink Chablis’: This Proven Winners introduction has pink flowers.
‘Longwood Blue’: This variety has sky-blue fragrant blooms and has a taller stature that's about 4 feet high.
‘Worchester Gold’: This cultivar has golden foliage and lavender flowers.
Pruning
To keep the plant shaped and flowering, Caryopteris plants should be cut down by at least half in the early spring. You can cut them back to 12 to 18 inches without harm. As the plants age, you will get some dead wood in the center. Prune this out as needed. If the plants die back in winter, remove the dead stalks in spring as new growth is beginning.
Tip
Blue beard is slow to leaf out in the spring, so don’t panic if yours looks like a dead twig. Be patient.
Propagating Blue Beard Plants
Blue beard may self seed, and the volunteers can be transplanted as you wish. You can also propagate by soft-wood cuttings in late spring. Cut 6-inch segments off new-growth stems, then remove the lower pairs of leaves. Dip the ends of the cuttings in rooting hormone, then plant them in potting mix. Keep the cuttings in bright indirect light and make sure they are well-watered until they have developed good root systems.
Common Pests/Diseases
Caryopteris can be bothered by the four-line plant bug in June. The foliage will get mottled, but it doesn’t harm the plant and the bug moves on quickly enough. If the bugs disturb you, insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or neem oil will control them.
Depending on the climate, these plants are grown either as deciduous shrubs or woody perennials that die back to the ground each winter. Growing from neat low mounds, the narrow silvery-gray leaves resemble those of willow. Ideally, the plant should be planted in the spring or fall, provided that your area doesn't get too cold. Clandonensis hybrids typically grow between 18 and 30 inches annually.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Pick the Perfect Front Door Color
Fun Fact
The plant's common names come from the hue of the flowers. The blue or purplish blooms, appearing are mid-to-late summer, are clustered in panicles above the foliage in small feathery puffs.
Botanical Name Caryopteris × clandonensis
Common Names Blue beard, blue mist
Plant Type Deciduous shrub or woody perennial
Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall with a similar spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Mid-to-late summer
Flower Color Blue, purple; pink cultivars available
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Parent species are native to East Asia
Blue Beard Care
The compact size and soft gray foliage make blue beard plants a good choice in any size garden. This is a versatile plant, equally at home in perennial borders, shrub borders, or as a small hedge plant. It is very effective planted in mass and is highly valued for its late summer flowers when few other shrubs are blooming.
Blue beard plants are low-maintenance—they tolerate both drought and shade, and they don't need much fertilizer, if any. However, like all other plants, blue beards have their preferences, so you should plant them in full sun and with medium-moisture soil if you want them to thrive.
Light
Caryopteris plants should be sited in full sun for best blooms. They will tolerate some shade, although flowering will be somewhat reduced. Blue beard may bloom later in the season when they are planted in a shady location.
Soil
Caryopteris prefers a medium-moisture, well-draining soil, though it tolerates fairly moist soil. It does not tolerate wet, poorly drained soils. They thrive best with a neutral soil pH, but will accept slightly acidic or slightly alkaline conditions.
Water
Blue bears are drought-tolerant, but water the plants regularly when young. Once established, they don’t require any supplemental watering unless you are having a particularly dry season.
Temperature and Humidity
Blue beard is reliably hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9; however, in the northern part of the range (zones 5 and 6), it may die back to ground level in winter. This is not a problem, though, because this is a fast-growing shrub that blooms on new growth from the current year.
Fertilizer
These plants are not heavy feeders, so some organic matter mixed into the planting hole should be all the food they need. Side dressing with compost is preferred over fertilizing Caryopteris plants. Too much fertilizer makes for a leafy plant with fewer blooms.
Varieties of Blue Beard
Caryopteris x clandonensis : The original hybrid is one of the hardiest forms available and still one of the most popular.
'Dark Knight': This variety has the darkest blue flowers, but it is a bit more temperamental to grow.
'Sunshine Blue': This cultivar has deep blue flowers offset by yellow foliage.
‘Pink Chablis’: This Proven Winners introduction has pink flowers.
‘Longwood Blue’: This variety has sky-blue fragrant blooms and has a taller stature that's about 4 feet high.
‘Worchester Gold’: This cultivar has golden foliage and lavender flowers.
Pruning
To keep the plant shaped and flowering, Caryopteris plants should be cut down by at least half in the early spring. You can cut them back to 12 to 18 inches without harm. As the plants age, you will get some dead wood in the center. Prune this out as needed. If the plants die back in winter, remove the dead stalks in spring as new growth is beginning.
Tip
Blue beard is slow to leaf out in the spring, so don’t panic if yours looks like a dead twig. Be patient.
Propagating Blue Beard Plants
Blue beard may self seed, and the volunteers can be transplanted as you wish. You can also propagate by soft-wood cuttings in late spring. Cut 6-inch segments off new-growth stems, then remove the lower pairs of leaves. Dip the ends of the cuttings in rooting hormone, then plant them in potting mix. Keep the cuttings in bright indirect light and make sure they are well-watered until they have developed good root systems.
Common Pests/Diseases
Caryopteris can be bothered by the four-line plant bug in June. The foliage will get mottled, but it doesn’t harm the plant and the bug moves on quickly enough. If the bugs disturb you, insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or neem oil will control them.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月29日
The common bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis; formerly Dicentra spectabilis) got its name for its pillow-like, heart-shaped flower that dangles like a single pendulous drop. Bleeding hearts are shade-loving woodland plants that bloom in the cool of spring. Although they stay in bloom for several weeks, the plants often become ephemeral, disappearing for the rest of the summer if exposed to too much sun or heat. The roots stay alive, and the plant will regrow in fall or the following spring. The fringed-leaf varieties of bleeding heart repeat bloom throughout the summer.
There are many other species in the Dicentra genus called bleeding hearts, though these are primarily wildflowers that aren't commonly grown in cultivation. Bleeding hearts have a medium growth rate and reach their mature size in about 60 days. This plant is toxic to humans and animals1.
Common Name Bleeding heart, common bleeding heart, fern-leaf bleeding heart
Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis
Family Papaveraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 6 in.-3 ft. tall, and 1-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Part shade to full shade
Soil Type Rich and moist
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic); will tolerate neutral soils
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Pink, red, white
Hardiness Zones 2 to 9 (USDA)
Native Areas Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals (most commonly dogs)
Bleeding Heart Care
In a typical growing season, a bleeding heart plant produces about 20 small flowers on its stems in spring. Its foliage usually enters dormancy in the midsummer heat, and this sensitivity to heat makes establishing new plants more challenging in warmer zones than in colder areas. In addition, the flowers are delicate and require protection from strong winds.
Bleeding hearts usually bloom about the same time as pulmonaria, brunnera, and hellebores, and they all contribute to a beautiful woodland cottage effect. Bleeding hearts will stay in bloom for several weeks, but the foliage tends to go downhill after flowering. These plants will also self-seed if not deadheaded. If your bleeding hearts go dormant and disappear, plan to have late-emerging plants to fill in space vacated by bleeding hearts. Coral bells, ferns, foam flowers, hosta, and monkshood are good companions.
Bleeding heart is relatively trouble-free, although common garden problems such as aphids and powdery mildew are occasional issues. The leaves are susceptible to leaf spots, and the easiest solution is to shear back the affected foliage. Although bleeding hearts like moist soil, they cannot tolerate heavy, wet soil and may get root rot if left with wet feet too long.
Light
Bleeding hearts do best in part shade. Since it is such an early bloomer, planting near a deciduous tree is a good spot. The plant will be up and growing before the tree leaves out, and when the bleeding heart needs protection from the summer sun, the tree will provide it.
Soil
Bleeding heart prefers humus-rich, moist soil, with lots of organic matter, but it is not too particular about soil pH. It prefers slightly acidic soil but will do fine in neutral soils. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, over the existing soil. Work it in to improve aeration and create a loose soil that allows the roots to grow. It prefers a well-draining soil that will not let the roots get soggy and rot.
Water
Keep plants well-watered throughout the summer, especially in warmer weather. They require about 1 inch of water per week, either through rainfall or manual watering. If they are planted right next to a thirsty tree or bush, water them again that week with another inch. If your plants disappear until the fall or next spring, mark the spot, so you do not accidentally dig in the area while your plants are dormant. Also, even if the site is bare, continue to water the area to keep the bleeding heart's roots hydrated. Bleeding heart is a little more drought-tolerant than the other species, but it is still best to treat them all as woodland plants and provide a moist (but not too wet) environment.
Temperature and Humidity
A bleeding heart plant begins to yellow once the summer heat ramps up. This yellowing is perfectly normal and is a sign that it is storing its energy for the winter. Its ideal temperature is 55 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and it has a good tolerance for high humidity.
Fertilizer
Bleeding heart plants are not heavy feeders, so when to fertilize depends on the quality of your soil. If you have rich, organic soil amended every year, you will not have to feed at all. Bleeding hearts are woodland plants and do exceptionally well with a top dressing of leaf mold.
Types of Bleeding Heart
These cultivars of the Lamprocapnos spectabilis species plant also have some popular closely related species with similar growing characteristics:
Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Alba': A long-time gardeners' favorite with pure white flowers
L. spectabilis 'Gold Heart': A variety with pink flowers and yellow-gold foliage
L. spectabilis ‘Valentine’: Bright cherry-red blooms with white tips cultivar; stems are burgundy colored
Dicentra eximia, fringed-leaf bleeding heart: American native with delicate fernlike foliage that will repeat bloom throughout summer; 'Zestful' is an especially popular cultivar with pink flowers
D. cucullaria, Dutchman's breeches: Very similar to bleeding heart with flowers that look like tiny white pantaloons
Pruning
No pruning or deadheading is required since this plant may bloom again later in the season. Leave the flowers if you want them to go to seed. Trim back the foliage when it starts to brown and turn ugly. Fringed-leaf varieties can also get a little ragged-looking and can be sheared back to their basal growth; they will re-leaf and rebloom.
Propagating Bleeding Heart
Bleeding heart is usually planted from nursery seedlings, but you can propagate bleeding heart from seeds, clump division, or stem cuttings. Propagation by cuttings is best done in spring to early summer. If you are starting from seeds in the garden, sow them in the fall. Propagation is a good way to rejuvenate older plants that tend to flower less. Here's how to propagate bleeding hearts:
Propagation by division: It is very easy to divide the root clumps of bleeding heart plants. You should divide after flowering is complete so you do not sacrifice bloom. The fringed-leaf varieties divide nicely early in spring as they are emerging.
If the plant is in the ground, you will need a shovel or trowel. Other items you'll need include a sterilized, sharp knife and a flat surface. If you're transplanting into a container, you'll need a pot and potting mix.
Dig a circle around the crown of the roots and pull up the root ball. The roots grow horizontally. Do not worry when cutting through the roots.
Examine the root crown. Look for pink buds of growth. Cut through the root ball, leaving at least one bud per sectioned area (two to three buds per section is better).
Replant the root ball in potting mix enriched with compost or leaf mold, or decomposing leaves. Water thoroughly, moisten the soil but do not leave it too wet or soggy.
Propagation by cuttings: Bleeding heart can also be started by cuttings rooted in a growing medium. It can take 10 days to three weeks before rooting occurs.
You will need sterilized pruners to take a 3- to 5-inch cutting from a healthy bleeding heart plant. You'll also need a container, an enriched, well-draining potting soil, and a plastic bag. Optionally, you can use a rooting hormone for improving rooting success.
Take off the leaves from the bottom half of the stem. Fill the container with the potting soil, poke a hole in the soil in the center of the container using a finger. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone and put it into the hole. Firmly put the potting mix gently around the stem.
Water the soil to the point it's moist but not soggy. Put a clear plastic bag around the cutting, not touching the plant. If condensation appears on the inside of the bag, poke a hole in the plastic for some ventilation.
Place the plant in indirect light. A bright windowsill will be too sunny and scorch the plant.
Once you notice new growth, the plant has successfully rooted. Remove the plastic bag.
Move the bleeding heart plant outdoors once it's rooted well and new growth is more abundant. Harden off the plants in a protected spot for a few days before moving them to their permanent spot outdoors.
How to Grow Bleeding Hearts From Seed
To starting seeds indoors, place the seeds in a pot of soil. Put the pot in a plastic bag and place it in the freezer for 6 to 8 weeks. Remove the pot and gradually reintroduce the plant to light and warmer conditions. The change in temperature and exposure to sunlight will allow the seeds to germinate and sprout. Bleeding hearts also tend to self-seed in the garden, though not invasively. The tiny seedlings can be carefully dug up and transplanted.
Potting and Repotting Bleeding Hearts
Bleeding hearts live well as container plants, but conditions need to be right. When potting it, opt for a large container, at least a 12-inch pot. They can become a substantial plant, growing more than 3 feet tall. A bleeding heart can grow for four to five years in a large container before being divided and repotted. Make sure you use well-draining, enriched potting soil. The type of pot you use doesn't matter—ceramic or plastic are fine—only make sure it has ample drainage holes so roots do not sit in soggy soil.
To repot it, get a container with at least 2 to 3 inches of extra growing room around the root ball and below. Put at least 2 inches of new soil at the bottom of the pot. Center the root ball and put soil all around its circumference. Water thoroughly and keep the plant in a shady or partially lit spot.
Overwintering
Bleeding hearts naturally die back during the winter season. The rhizome or root ball will survive the cold winter even if the plant appears dead above ground. You can cut the stems down to one or two inches from the surface level. Keep watering the soil up until the first frost. At the start of the winter season, you can protect the roots and help them retain moisture by adding a two-inch layer of mulch on top of the plant stems. Remove the mulch as the frosty season ends.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
The plant's most significant pest problems are aphids, scale, and slugs and snails. The easiest and least invasive treatment for aphids and scale is using an insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs and snails are best to remedy by physically picking them off and disposing of them in a bucket of soapy water, and they are easiest to find at night and in the early morning.
In terms of disease, bleeding hearts are prone to diseases common to shady plants, such as fungal infections like soggy soil that leads to root rot, powdery mildew, and leaf spot. In most cases, you can treat the plant with a fungicide by following the instructions on the packaging. If the plant has turned black and foul-smelling, it's rotting and can infect other nearby plants. It's best to pull up the plant. If the plant is in a container, sterilize the entire container and throw out the soil. If the rot occurred in your yard or garden, treat the planting spot with a fungicide.
To prevent future fungus issues, irrigate your plant's soil (not the plant itself). Excessive moisture on the plant's foliage in shady spots may encourage fungal growth.
How to Get Bleeding Hearts to Bloom
Bleeding hearts are usually spring-blooming plants and will continue to flower into the summer until it gets too hot for them. Hot temps trigger the plant to die off and enter dormancy. If you don't notice any flowering, note that this plant takes some time to establish and may not flower in its first growing season. If it's not flowering, the plant may still be too young or need to be divided.
To trigger the plant to bloom again in the season, you can stimulate new growth by cutting the plant down to one inch of the ground surface. It may get the plant growing again. You can give the plant fertilizer every six weeks. This plant enjoys rich, moist soil but not too wet that it's boggy. Ensure the plant stays out of the direct sunlight; the flowers do not tolerate the sun much.
Common Problems With Bleeding Hearts
Bleeding hearts grow well in shady spots. However, shade-loving plants are often prone to problems with excessive moisture and fungal disease. Most of the issues your plant will experience are likely due to watering, insect activity, or fungus.
Powdery Patches on Its Foliage
Spots of black, gray, white, or pink powder on its leaves indicate powdery mildew, a treatable disease when treated immediately. Its growth gets stunted and looks gnarled, curled, and unsightly. A fungicide will remove the problem. To prevent this from occurring, make sure plants are watered on the soil (not on the foliage) and make sure the plants have plenty of aeration and are not too crowded.
Brown or Black Spots on the Leaves
If the bleeding heart plant develops small brown or black spots on the leaves that grow larger with a yellow ring or halo with the center of the ring beginning to rot out, then the plant likely has fungal leaf spot. Treatment with a fungicide or baking soda solution may neutralize the fungus if caught early enough. As the disease progresses, the leaves drop and the plant will die.
Yellowing Leaves
Bleeding hearts naturally turns yellow and dies as the temperature turns hot. If that is the case, there is no reason to do anything. The plant is entering dormancy, which is its normal growth cycle. However, yellowing can also occur if the plant is getting too much water, the soil is too alkaline, or if the plant is getting too much sun. Adjust those conditions.
Also, check the plant to see if it has an infestation of aphids. Aphids suck the sap out of plants, depriving the plants of their nutrients, leading to leaf drop and can cause plant death. Yellowing can also be a sign of a fungal disease emerging. Verticillium or fusarium are severe fungal infections that start with yellowing. If your plant has this disease, it is not salvageable and should be destroyed before it spreads to other plants.
Browning, Blackening, or Rapid Wilting of the Plant
Diseases like verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, botrytis, and root rot will cause a plant to fail quickly. Initial signs will be wilting, leading to all over-browning or the plant beginning to rot. In the case of botrytis, it will appear like a gray mold is overtaking the plant. In most cases, if your plant is infected with these fungal issues and has begun browning or blackening, the plant is too far gone. You can attempt to resurrect it with a fungicide, but it's not going to work in most of these cases. Remove all of the soil, discard it, and sterilize the container before using the pot again. Burn or seal the plant in a plastic bag before discarding it.
There are many other species in the Dicentra genus called bleeding hearts, though these are primarily wildflowers that aren't commonly grown in cultivation. Bleeding hearts have a medium growth rate and reach their mature size in about 60 days. This plant is toxic to humans and animals1.
Common Name Bleeding heart, common bleeding heart, fern-leaf bleeding heart
Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis
Family Papaveraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 6 in.-3 ft. tall, and 1-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Part shade to full shade
Soil Type Rich and moist
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic); will tolerate neutral soils
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Pink, red, white
Hardiness Zones 2 to 9 (USDA)
Native Areas Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals (most commonly dogs)
Bleeding Heart Care
In a typical growing season, a bleeding heart plant produces about 20 small flowers on its stems in spring. Its foliage usually enters dormancy in the midsummer heat, and this sensitivity to heat makes establishing new plants more challenging in warmer zones than in colder areas. In addition, the flowers are delicate and require protection from strong winds.
Bleeding hearts usually bloom about the same time as pulmonaria, brunnera, and hellebores, and they all contribute to a beautiful woodland cottage effect. Bleeding hearts will stay in bloom for several weeks, but the foliage tends to go downhill after flowering. These plants will also self-seed if not deadheaded. If your bleeding hearts go dormant and disappear, plan to have late-emerging plants to fill in space vacated by bleeding hearts. Coral bells, ferns, foam flowers, hosta, and monkshood are good companions.
Bleeding heart is relatively trouble-free, although common garden problems such as aphids and powdery mildew are occasional issues. The leaves are susceptible to leaf spots, and the easiest solution is to shear back the affected foliage. Although bleeding hearts like moist soil, they cannot tolerate heavy, wet soil and may get root rot if left with wet feet too long.
Light
Bleeding hearts do best in part shade. Since it is such an early bloomer, planting near a deciduous tree is a good spot. The plant will be up and growing before the tree leaves out, and when the bleeding heart needs protection from the summer sun, the tree will provide it.
Soil
Bleeding heart prefers humus-rich, moist soil, with lots of organic matter, but it is not too particular about soil pH. It prefers slightly acidic soil but will do fine in neutral soils. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, over the existing soil. Work it in to improve aeration and create a loose soil that allows the roots to grow. It prefers a well-draining soil that will not let the roots get soggy and rot.
Water
Keep plants well-watered throughout the summer, especially in warmer weather. They require about 1 inch of water per week, either through rainfall or manual watering. If they are planted right next to a thirsty tree or bush, water them again that week with another inch. If your plants disappear until the fall or next spring, mark the spot, so you do not accidentally dig in the area while your plants are dormant. Also, even if the site is bare, continue to water the area to keep the bleeding heart's roots hydrated. Bleeding heart is a little more drought-tolerant than the other species, but it is still best to treat them all as woodland plants and provide a moist (but not too wet) environment.
Temperature and Humidity
A bleeding heart plant begins to yellow once the summer heat ramps up. This yellowing is perfectly normal and is a sign that it is storing its energy for the winter. Its ideal temperature is 55 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and it has a good tolerance for high humidity.
Fertilizer
Bleeding heart plants are not heavy feeders, so when to fertilize depends on the quality of your soil. If you have rich, organic soil amended every year, you will not have to feed at all. Bleeding hearts are woodland plants and do exceptionally well with a top dressing of leaf mold.
Types of Bleeding Heart
These cultivars of the Lamprocapnos spectabilis species plant also have some popular closely related species with similar growing characteristics:
Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Alba': A long-time gardeners' favorite with pure white flowers
L. spectabilis 'Gold Heart': A variety with pink flowers and yellow-gold foliage
L. spectabilis ‘Valentine’: Bright cherry-red blooms with white tips cultivar; stems are burgundy colored
Dicentra eximia, fringed-leaf bleeding heart: American native with delicate fernlike foliage that will repeat bloom throughout summer; 'Zestful' is an especially popular cultivar with pink flowers
D. cucullaria, Dutchman's breeches: Very similar to bleeding heart with flowers that look like tiny white pantaloons
Pruning
No pruning or deadheading is required since this plant may bloom again later in the season. Leave the flowers if you want them to go to seed. Trim back the foliage when it starts to brown and turn ugly. Fringed-leaf varieties can also get a little ragged-looking and can be sheared back to their basal growth; they will re-leaf and rebloom.
Propagating Bleeding Heart
Bleeding heart is usually planted from nursery seedlings, but you can propagate bleeding heart from seeds, clump division, or stem cuttings. Propagation by cuttings is best done in spring to early summer. If you are starting from seeds in the garden, sow them in the fall. Propagation is a good way to rejuvenate older plants that tend to flower less. Here's how to propagate bleeding hearts:
Propagation by division: It is very easy to divide the root clumps of bleeding heart plants. You should divide after flowering is complete so you do not sacrifice bloom. The fringed-leaf varieties divide nicely early in spring as they are emerging.
If the plant is in the ground, you will need a shovel or trowel. Other items you'll need include a sterilized, sharp knife and a flat surface. If you're transplanting into a container, you'll need a pot and potting mix.
Dig a circle around the crown of the roots and pull up the root ball. The roots grow horizontally. Do not worry when cutting through the roots.
Examine the root crown. Look for pink buds of growth. Cut through the root ball, leaving at least one bud per sectioned area (two to three buds per section is better).
Replant the root ball in potting mix enriched with compost or leaf mold, or decomposing leaves. Water thoroughly, moisten the soil but do not leave it too wet or soggy.
Propagation by cuttings: Bleeding heart can also be started by cuttings rooted in a growing medium. It can take 10 days to three weeks before rooting occurs.
You will need sterilized pruners to take a 3- to 5-inch cutting from a healthy bleeding heart plant. You'll also need a container, an enriched, well-draining potting soil, and a plastic bag. Optionally, you can use a rooting hormone for improving rooting success.
Take off the leaves from the bottom half of the stem. Fill the container with the potting soil, poke a hole in the soil in the center of the container using a finger. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone and put it into the hole. Firmly put the potting mix gently around the stem.
Water the soil to the point it's moist but not soggy. Put a clear plastic bag around the cutting, not touching the plant. If condensation appears on the inside of the bag, poke a hole in the plastic for some ventilation.
Place the plant in indirect light. A bright windowsill will be too sunny and scorch the plant.
Once you notice new growth, the plant has successfully rooted. Remove the plastic bag.
Move the bleeding heart plant outdoors once it's rooted well and new growth is more abundant. Harden off the plants in a protected spot for a few days before moving them to their permanent spot outdoors.
How to Grow Bleeding Hearts From Seed
To starting seeds indoors, place the seeds in a pot of soil. Put the pot in a plastic bag and place it in the freezer for 6 to 8 weeks. Remove the pot and gradually reintroduce the plant to light and warmer conditions. The change in temperature and exposure to sunlight will allow the seeds to germinate and sprout. Bleeding hearts also tend to self-seed in the garden, though not invasively. The tiny seedlings can be carefully dug up and transplanted.
Potting and Repotting Bleeding Hearts
Bleeding hearts live well as container plants, but conditions need to be right. When potting it, opt for a large container, at least a 12-inch pot. They can become a substantial plant, growing more than 3 feet tall. A bleeding heart can grow for four to five years in a large container before being divided and repotted. Make sure you use well-draining, enriched potting soil. The type of pot you use doesn't matter—ceramic or plastic are fine—only make sure it has ample drainage holes so roots do not sit in soggy soil.
To repot it, get a container with at least 2 to 3 inches of extra growing room around the root ball and below. Put at least 2 inches of new soil at the bottom of the pot. Center the root ball and put soil all around its circumference. Water thoroughly and keep the plant in a shady or partially lit spot.
Overwintering
Bleeding hearts naturally die back during the winter season. The rhizome or root ball will survive the cold winter even if the plant appears dead above ground. You can cut the stems down to one or two inches from the surface level. Keep watering the soil up until the first frost. At the start of the winter season, you can protect the roots and help them retain moisture by adding a two-inch layer of mulch on top of the plant stems. Remove the mulch as the frosty season ends.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
The plant's most significant pest problems are aphids, scale, and slugs and snails. The easiest and least invasive treatment for aphids and scale is using an insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs and snails are best to remedy by physically picking them off and disposing of them in a bucket of soapy water, and they are easiest to find at night and in the early morning.
In terms of disease, bleeding hearts are prone to diseases common to shady plants, such as fungal infections like soggy soil that leads to root rot, powdery mildew, and leaf spot. In most cases, you can treat the plant with a fungicide by following the instructions on the packaging. If the plant has turned black and foul-smelling, it's rotting and can infect other nearby plants. It's best to pull up the plant. If the plant is in a container, sterilize the entire container and throw out the soil. If the rot occurred in your yard or garden, treat the planting spot with a fungicide.
To prevent future fungus issues, irrigate your plant's soil (not the plant itself). Excessive moisture on the plant's foliage in shady spots may encourage fungal growth.
How to Get Bleeding Hearts to Bloom
Bleeding hearts are usually spring-blooming plants and will continue to flower into the summer until it gets too hot for them. Hot temps trigger the plant to die off and enter dormancy. If you don't notice any flowering, note that this plant takes some time to establish and may not flower in its first growing season. If it's not flowering, the plant may still be too young or need to be divided.
To trigger the plant to bloom again in the season, you can stimulate new growth by cutting the plant down to one inch of the ground surface. It may get the plant growing again. You can give the plant fertilizer every six weeks. This plant enjoys rich, moist soil but not too wet that it's boggy. Ensure the plant stays out of the direct sunlight; the flowers do not tolerate the sun much.
Common Problems With Bleeding Hearts
Bleeding hearts grow well in shady spots. However, shade-loving plants are often prone to problems with excessive moisture and fungal disease. Most of the issues your plant will experience are likely due to watering, insect activity, or fungus.
Powdery Patches on Its Foliage
Spots of black, gray, white, or pink powder on its leaves indicate powdery mildew, a treatable disease when treated immediately. Its growth gets stunted and looks gnarled, curled, and unsightly. A fungicide will remove the problem. To prevent this from occurring, make sure plants are watered on the soil (not on the foliage) and make sure the plants have plenty of aeration and are not too crowded.
Brown or Black Spots on the Leaves
If the bleeding heart plant develops small brown or black spots on the leaves that grow larger with a yellow ring or halo with the center of the ring beginning to rot out, then the plant likely has fungal leaf spot. Treatment with a fungicide or baking soda solution may neutralize the fungus if caught early enough. As the disease progresses, the leaves drop and the plant will die.
Yellowing Leaves
Bleeding hearts naturally turns yellow and dies as the temperature turns hot. If that is the case, there is no reason to do anything. The plant is entering dormancy, which is its normal growth cycle. However, yellowing can also occur if the plant is getting too much water, the soil is too alkaline, or if the plant is getting too much sun. Adjust those conditions.
Also, check the plant to see if it has an infestation of aphids. Aphids suck the sap out of plants, depriving the plants of their nutrients, leading to leaf drop and can cause plant death. Yellowing can also be a sign of a fungal disease emerging. Verticillium or fusarium are severe fungal infections that start with yellowing. If your plant has this disease, it is not salvageable and should be destroyed before it spreads to other plants.
Browning, Blackening, or Rapid Wilting of the Plant
Diseases like verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, botrytis, and root rot will cause a plant to fail quickly. Initial signs will be wilting, leading to all over-browning or the plant beginning to rot. In the case of botrytis, it will appear like a gray mold is overtaking the plant. In most cases, if your plant is infected with these fungal issues and has begun browning or blackening, the plant is too far gone. You can attempt to resurrect it with a fungicide, but it's not going to work in most of these cases. Remove all of the soil, discard it, and sterilize the container before using the pot again. Burn or seal the plant in a plastic bag before discarding it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月18日
Bird's nest ferns (Asplenium nidus) are naturally epiphytic, meaning they grow on the surface of other plants. In their rainforest homes, they can be found growing high in the crooks of trees. They form a series of erect, spoon-shaped, bright green fronds that rise from a central rosette. Healthy plants can have fronds up to 5 feet long, but bird's nest ferns kept as houseplants typically have fronds that grow only about 2 feet long. These ferns have a slow growth rate. They're best planted in the spring, though houseplants generally can be started year-round.
Common Name Bird's nest fern, nest fern
Botanical Name Asplenium nidus
Family Aspleniaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 11–12, USA
Native Area Asia, Australia, Africa
Bird's Nest Fern Care
The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing it with ample warmth, humidity, and moisture. When growing it as a houseplant, one of the best places to situate a bird's nest fern is near a shower or tub in a bathroom where it will receive optimal humidity and warmth, though it must have a light source as well.
New leaves will constantly emerge from the central area of the plant, which resembles a bird's nest. Do not touch, move, or handle the new, delicate fronds as they emerge from the center. They are extremely fragile, and if you touch them, there is a high chance of them becoming damaged or deformed.
Light
Bird’s nest ferns grow well in filtered sunlight to a moderate amount of shade. Don’t expose them to direct sunlight other than the very early morning sun. Harsh direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Indoors, an east- or north-facing window is ideal.
Soil
These plants like soil that’s loose and rich in organic matter with excellent drainage. A peat-based potting mix is good for container plants.
Water
The ferns prefer a consistent amount of soil moisture, but they don’t do well sitting in soggy soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid watering directly into the center of the plant, as this can encourage mold growth and rot in the dense nest. Aim water at the soil to avoid wetting the fern's fronds.
Temperature and Humidity
The bird’s nest fern thrives in warmth with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50 degrees, but anything colder than that can harm the plant, especially with prolonged exposure. Indoors, be sure to protect your plant from cool drafts, such as air blowing from an air-conditioning vent.
This fern prefers high humidity and moist environments, such as a bathroom, greenhouse, or terrarium. To raise the humidity around a bird’s nest fern, you can use a humidifier. Or you can set its pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. But make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water because that can lead to root rot.
Fertilizer
During the fern's active growing season (April through September), fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer that's diluted to half strength. Make sure to apply the fertilizer to the soil and not the fronds, as direct contact with fertilizer can burn foliage. Withhold fertilizer for the rest of the year because too much food can cause the fronds to have an abnormal shape or take on a yellowish or brownish color.
Types of Bird's Nest Fern
There are only a handful of varieties of bird’s nest ferns, which typically feature different leaf shapes. They include:
Asplenium nidus 'Crispy Wave': Sword-shaped ruffled leaves
Asplenium nidus 'Osaka': Narrow, strap-like leaves with rippled edges
Asplenium nidus 'Antiquum': Wavy leaf margins
Asplenium nidus 'Victoria': Long, wavy, tongue-shaped fronds
Propagating Bird's Nest Fern
Bird’s nest ferns can be tricky to propagate for beginner gardeners. Many people opt to purchase nursery plants instead, though propagating them yourself will save you some money. Propagation occurs via spores, which look like fuzzy brown spots on the undersides of fronds. When they look especially plump and fuzzy, that's when it's time to propagate.
To collect the spores, cut off a frond with these spots and place it in a paper bag for a few days. The spores will drop into the bag. Next, add the spores on top of a container of sphagnum moss that’s placed in a water dish, so the moss will soak up the water. The moss should be moist throughout but not waterlogged. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep the environment moist, and place it in a warm, shaded spot. Keep the dish filled with water, and mist the moss if it doesn't feel moist. Germination should occur in a few weeks.
Potting and Repotting Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns must be potted in a container with ample drainage holes. As an epiphytic plant, bird's nest ferns are accustomed to growing with minimal potting media. So your plant generally won’t need repotting because its roots have run out of space. Instead, these ferns will need repotting once they’ve grown so large that they’re unstable in their pot and need a larger container to attach themselves to. This will typically occur every two to three years, and spring is the best time to repot. When it’s time to repot, select a container that's large enough to keep your plant stable. A clay container is often better than plastic to anchor the plant. Carefully loosen your plant from its previous pot, set it in the new pot at the same depth as it was before, and fill around it with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
No serious disease or pest problems affect bird's nest ferns, though they can be affected by some insects common to houseplants, such as scale. Natural insecticidal soaps are the best solution to combat pest issues, since chemical pesticides will damage this plant's fragile leaves.
Common Problems With Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns are generally healthy plants, but they can be prone to a few issues that largely have to do with an improper environment.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Too much sun can cause the foliage of a bird's nest fern to turn yellow. Likewise, too much fertilizer also can cause yellowing. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure it's always in proper sunlight conditions. And adjust fertilization if necessary.
Browning Tips
Fronds naturally turn brown as they die and are replaced with fresh growth. But browning along the edges of a frond is often due to drafts hitting the plant. Move your fern away from air-conditioning vents and any drafty windows or doors.
Common Name Bird's nest fern, nest fern
Botanical Name Asplenium nidus
Family Aspleniaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 11–12, USA
Native Area Asia, Australia, Africa
Bird's Nest Fern Care
The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing it with ample warmth, humidity, and moisture. When growing it as a houseplant, one of the best places to situate a bird's nest fern is near a shower or tub in a bathroom where it will receive optimal humidity and warmth, though it must have a light source as well.
New leaves will constantly emerge from the central area of the plant, which resembles a bird's nest. Do not touch, move, or handle the new, delicate fronds as they emerge from the center. They are extremely fragile, and if you touch them, there is a high chance of them becoming damaged or deformed.
Light
Bird’s nest ferns grow well in filtered sunlight to a moderate amount of shade. Don’t expose them to direct sunlight other than the very early morning sun. Harsh direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Indoors, an east- or north-facing window is ideal.
Soil
These plants like soil that’s loose and rich in organic matter with excellent drainage. A peat-based potting mix is good for container plants.
Water
The ferns prefer a consistent amount of soil moisture, but they don’t do well sitting in soggy soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid watering directly into the center of the plant, as this can encourage mold growth and rot in the dense nest. Aim water at the soil to avoid wetting the fern's fronds.
Temperature and Humidity
The bird’s nest fern thrives in warmth with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50 degrees, but anything colder than that can harm the plant, especially with prolonged exposure. Indoors, be sure to protect your plant from cool drafts, such as air blowing from an air-conditioning vent.
This fern prefers high humidity and moist environments, such as a bathroom, greenhouse, or terrarium. To raise the humidity around a bird’s nest fern, you can use a humidifier. Or you can set its pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. But make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water because that can lead to root rot.
Fertilizer
During the fern's active growing season (April through September), fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer that's diluted to half strength. Make sure to apply the fertilizer to the soil and not the fronds, as direct contact with fertilizer can burn foliage. Withhold fertilizer for the rest of the year because too much food can cause the fronds to have an abnormal shape or take on a yellowish or brownish color.
Types of Bird's Nest Fern
There are only a handful of varieties of bird’s nest ferns, which typically feature different leaf shapes. They include:
Asplenium nidus 'Crispy Wave': Sword-shaped ruffled leaves
Asplenium nidus 'Osaka': Narrow, strap-like leaves with rippled edges
Asplenium nidus 'Antiquum': Wavy leaf margins
Asplenium nidus 'Victoria': Long, wavy, tongue-shaped fronds
Propagating Bird's Nest Fern
Bird’s nest ferns can be tricky to propagate for beginner gardeners. Many people opt to purchase nursery plants instead, though propagating them yourself will save you some money. Propagation occurs via spores, which look like fuzzy brown spots on the undersides of fronds. When they look especially plump and fuzzy, that's when it's time to propagate.
To collect the spores, cut off a frond with these spots and place it in a paper bag for a few days. The spores will drop into the bag. Next, add the spores on top of a container of sphagnum moss that’s placed in a water dish, so the moss will soak up the water. The moss should be moist throughout but not waterlogged. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep the environment moist, and place it in a warm, shaded spot. Keep the dish filled with water, and mist the moss if it doesn't feel moist. Germination should occur in a few weeks.
Potting and Repotting Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns must be potted in a container with ample drainage holes. As an epiphytic plant, bird's nest ferns are accustomed to growing with minimal potting media. So your plant generally won’t need repotting because its roots have run out of space. Instead, these ferns will need repotting once they’ve grown so large that they’re unstable in their pot and need a larger container to attach themselves to. This will typically occur every two to three years, and spring is the best time to repot. When it’s time to repot, select a container that's large enough to keep your plant stable. A clay container is often better than plastic to anchor the plant. Carefully loosen your plant from its previous pot, set it in the new pot at the same depth as it was before, and fill around it with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
No serious disease or pest problems affect bird's nest ferns, though they can be affected by some insects common to houseplants, such as scale. Natural insecticidal soaps are the best solution to combat pest issues, since chemical pesticides will damage this plant's fragile leaves.
Common Problems With Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns are generally healthy plants, but they can be prone to a few issues that largely have to do with an improper environment.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Too much sun can cause the foliage of a bird's nest fern to turn yellow. Likewise, too much fertilizer also can cause yellowing. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure it's always in proper sunlight conditions. And adjust fertilization if necessary.
Browning Tips
Fronds naturally turn brown as they die and are replaced with fresh growth. But browning along the edges of a frond is often due to drafts hitting the plant. Move your fern away from air-conditioning vents and any drafty windows or doors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月13日
You may not be familiar with the term bidens plant, but there is a good chance you’ve spotted this prolific growing plant with daisy-like blooms. Part of the aster family, there are more than 200 species of bidens plants with native types in such farflung places as Hawaii, Mexico, and Europe. In the United States, these plants are considered a native species in every state except Wyoming. If you encounter wild-growing bidens, you’ll recognize them for the tiny, sticky seeds that cling to your clothing or in your dog’s fur. The good news is that most commercially-available bidens have been cultivated to avoid the sticky seed problem.
These flowering plants typically have blooms in yellow or orange, but newer varieties include pink, gold, and white blossoms. In warmer climates where winter temperatures stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, bidens are a perennial plant. Though they lose their blooms in late fall and winter, the beautiful foliage of this plant stays green all year long. In northern climates where winter temperatures fall below freezing, they are considered an annual and need to be replanted each year.
Botanical Name Bidens
Common Name Bidens
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6-12 inches tall, 1-3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Medium to full sun
Soil Type Rich and well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, Gold, White, Pink, Orange
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia, Europe, Asia
How to Grow Bidens
Growing virtually all types of bidens is relatively easy. These plants have abundant greenery growth and produce many blooms—as long as they have rich soil and sufficient drainage. They tolerate drought and heat relatively well and require part to full sun.
You won’t need to deadhead the plant for it to continue blooming during its long flowering season of May to October. In the winter, the plant will die off if temperatures fall below freezing. Otherwise, it will retain its greenery through the winter months and rejuvenate in the spring.
Popular in both gardens and in containers, bidens are considered an excellent choice as a spiller plant.
Light
Bidens can grow in partial sun conditions, but for the biggest and best blooms, full sun is preferred. Any location you choose to plant bidens should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate light, the plant will still grow but may not produce as many blooms and is likely to be leggier.
Soil
Whether you’re planting bidens in an outdoor garden or a container, ensure that they have well-drained soil to avoid problems with root rot. In addition, this abundantly blooming plant thrives in rich, humus soil. It can tolerate a variety of pH levels in soil, but is generally considered to do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil types.
Water
These plants are considered fairly drought-resistant. However, they do require regular watering for their best appearance and longevity. An inch of water per week is typically sufficient; water before wilting begins.
Temperature and Humidity
Warm temperatures don’t put a damper on the growth and blooming of most varieties of bidens. With many of these plants being native to warm weather locales like Hawaii, Mexico, and Polynesia, it’s safe to say that they won’t mind a little heat and humidity!
The drought resistant quality of this plant also helps it to endure hot, dry conditions. However, if such a spell of dry weather persists, it’s best to provide these plants with regular watering to offset the impact of the heat on the plant’s foliage and blooms.
On the other hand, if temperatures dip too low, bidens plants will suffer. These plants are not frost-resistant and will die under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In climates that keep above this threshold, the plant will return year after year as a perennial. Otherwise, it will need to be re-planted as an annual each year.
Fertilizer
To flourish, the abundantly flowering bidens plant will require nutrient-rich soil. How much fertilizer to use and what type is generally specified by the specific type of bidens plant you’re growing.
It’s generally recommended to supplement this plant with a general-purpose fertilizer or to use a timed-release fertilizer when planting. Fertilizer is especially important if you are growing bidens in a container.
Propagating Bidens
It’s relatively easy to turn one bidens plant into many, since these plants can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or through dividing.
To propagate by seed, you should plan to sow the seeds at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Keep in mind that this plant prefers warm weather, so wait until after the last frost if you’re sowing seed in an outdoor location.
If you want to propagate by cuttings, take an actively growing stem with a node from the plant. Plant it in moist, rich potting soil and water generously and often until new growth emerges.
Finally, you can divide bidens plants to create more of these flowering beauties. For bidens growing as perennials in southern regions, wait to divide the plants until the spring.
Varieties of Bidens
Bidens alba – Resembling a daisy, this bidens plant variety features white petals and a bright yellow center. It’s also sometimes referred to as beggarticks or Spanish needles.
Bidens 'Campfire Burst' – This variety of bidens is hard to miss, thanks to the brightly hued flowers crowning each plant. The tri-colored petals are shaded inward from a deep red to a blazing orange and a zippy yellow. They flower abundantly from the summer into the fall and are a great colorful addition to any landscape design.
Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Nugget' – With yellow petals that resemble a star and an orange center, the Golden Nugget variety is one of the most eye-catching bidens plants. It’s a native of Mexico and is also called the Apache beggartick or fern-leaved beggartick, courtesy of its fine, soft foliage.
Pruning
Bidens are easy to maintain and don’t need to be pruned or deadheaded. However, in favorable growing conditions, you might choose to prune the plant back if it becomes too large.
Being Grown in Containers
While bidens are a popular pick for gardens and landscaping, they also make an excellent choice for container gardening. The abundant foliage and flowers are well-suited to flower boxes or hanging planters.
Much of the care of bidens grown in containers remains the same, however it will be important to fertilize these plants since they require rich soil for flowering and overall vitality.
These flowering plants typically have blooms in yellow or orange, but newer varieties include pink, gold, and white blossoms. In warmer climates where winter temperatures stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, bidens are a perennial plant. Though they lose their blooms in late fall and winter, the beautiful foliage of this plant stays green all year long. In northern climates where winter temperatures fall below freezing, they are considered an annual and need to be replanted each year.
Botanical Name Bidens
Common Name Bidens
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6-12 inches tall, 1-3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Medium to full sun
Soil Type Rich and well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, Gold, White, Pink, Orange
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia, Europe, Asia
How to Grow Bidens
Growing virtually all types of bidens is relatively easy. These plants have abundant greenery growth and produce many blooms—as long as they have rich soil and sufficient drainage. They tolerate drought and heat relatively well and require part to full sun.
You won’t need to deadhead the plant for it to continue blooming during its long flowering season of May to October. In the winter, the plant will die off if temperatures fall below freezing. Otherwise, it will retain its greenery through the winter months and rejuvenate in the spring.
Popular in both gardens and in containers, bidens are considered an excellent choice as a spiller plant.
Light
Bidens can grow in partial sun conditions, but for the biggest and best blooms, full sun is preferred. Any location you choose to plant bidens should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate light, the plant will still grow but may not produce as many blooms and is likely to be leggier.
Soil
Whether you’re planting bidens in an outdoor garden or a container, ensure that they have well-drained soil to avoid problems with root rot. In addition, this abundantly blooming plant thrives in rich, humus soil. It can tolerate a variety of pH levels in soil, but is generally considered to do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil types.
Water
These plants are considered fairly drought-resistant. However, they do require regular watering for their best appearance and longevity. An inch of water per week is typically sufficient; water before wilting begins.
Temperature and Humidity
Warm temperatures don’t put a damper on the growth and blooming of most varieties of bidens. With many of these plants being native to warm weather locales like Hawaii, Mexico, and Polynesia, it’s safe to say that they won’t mind a little heat and humidity!
The drought resistant quality of this plant also helps it to endure hot, dry conditions. However, if such a spell of dry weather persists, it’s best to provide these plants with regular watering to offset the impact of the heat on the plant’s foliage and blooms.
On the other hand, if temperatures dip too low, bidens plants will suffer. These plants are not frost-resistant and will die under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In climates that keep above this threshold, the plant will return year after year as a perennial. Otherwise, it will need to be re-planted as an annual each year.
Fertilizer
To flourish, the abundantly flowering bidens plant will require nutrient-rich soil. How much fertilizer to use and what type is generally specified by the specific type of bidens plant you’re growing.
It’s generally recommended to supplement this plant with a general-purpose fertilizer or to use a timed-release fertilizer when planting. Fertilizer is especially important if you are growing bidens in a container.
Propagating Bidens
It’s relatively easy to turn one bidens plant into many, since these plants can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or through dividing.
To propagate by seed, you should plan to sow the seeds at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Keep in mind that this plant prefers warm weather, so wait until after the last frost if you’re sowing seed in an outdoor location.
If you want to propagate by cuttings, take an actively growing stem with a node from the plant. Plant it in moist, rich potting soil and water generously and often until new growth emerges.
Finally, you can divide bidens plants to create more of these flowering beauties. For bidens growing as perennials in southern regions, wait to divide the plants until the spring.
Varieties of Bidens
Bidens alba – Resembling a daisy, this bidens plant variety features white petals and a bright yellow center. It’s also sometimes referred to as beggarticks or Spanish needles.
Bidens 'Campfire Burst' – This variety of bidens is hard to miss, thanks to the brightly hued flowers crowning each plant. The tri-colored petals are shaded inward from a deep red to a blazing orange and a zippy yellow. They flower abundantly from the summer into the fall and are a great colorful addition to any landscape design.
Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Nugget' – With yellow petals that resemble a star and an orange center, the Golden Nugget variety is one of the most eye-catching bidens plants. It’s a native of Mexico and is also called the Apache beggartick or fern-leaved beggartick, courtesy of its fine, soft foliage.
Pruning
Bidens are easy to maintain and don’t need to be pruned or deadheaded. However, in favorable growing conditions, you might choose to prune the plant back if it becomes too large.
Being Grown in Containers
While bidens are a popular pick for gardens and landscaping, they also make an excellent choice for container gardening. The abundant foliage and flowers are well-suited to flower boxes or hanging planters.
Much of the care of bidens grown in containers remains the same, however it will be important to fertilize these plants since they require rich soil for flowering and overall vitality.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月28日
The baseball plant (Euphorbia obesa) is a succulent perennial that is native to the Cape Province of South Africa. Since its discovery during the late 1800s, baseball plants have exploded in popularity as houseplants due to their unique appearance and low-maintenance needs. Though baseball plants are actually considered an endangered species in their native habitat due to unsustainable harvesting, they can easily be found in garden centers. Today, national and international legislation that prohibits harvesting baseball plants has been enacted in an effort to protect the remaining native populations of baseball plants.
These long-lived, slow-growing succulents are characterized by bulbous shape, V-shaped markings, and seam-like ridges that resemble stitching. Rather than branches or leaves, the plant consists of a single wide stem body from which the flowers sprout. Young baseball plants are round in shape but become more elongated and cylindrically shaped with maturity. Baseball plants are also called sea urchin plants since they loosely resemble that creature.
The plants are dioecious, with either male or female flowers that are yellow in color and rather insignificant in appearance. To produce seeds, the female flowers must be cross-pollinated by a male plant, and for this reason, the plant is rarely propagated by seed except in the nursery trade.
Botanical Name Euphorbia obesa
Common Name Baseball plant, sea urchin plant
Plant Type Succulent perennial
Mature Size 7 to 8 inches tall, up to 4 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, direct light; tolerates some shade
Soil Type Well-draining cactus/succulent potting mix
Soil pH 6.0–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer (flowers are fairly insignificant)
Flower Color Grayish-green
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA); grown as houseplants in all zones
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Baseball Plant Care
Baseball plants are relatively easy plants to care for as long as their light and water requirements are met. They thrive if grown in a standard coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents and placed in a location that receives plenty of sunlight or at constant bright indirect light. They are slow-growing plants that can be allowed to fill their pots before repotting becomes necessary. Few houseplants require less care than baseball plants.
Baseball plants do not produce leaves or foliage but they do produce small, fragrant flowers in the summer months. The tough stem structures are largely impervious to pest and disease problems, but if overwatered or allowed to soak in water, the roots may develop rot.
Light
In their native habitat, baseball plants are accustomed to plenty of bright, direct sunlight. When grown indoors, baseball plants should receive at least four hours of direct sunlight a day if possible. Loss of color and pattern, as well as a loss of shape, are all indications that your baseball plant is not receiving enough light; etiolated ("leggy") growth is another indication. Place your baseball plant in a south or east-facing window in your home to ensure it receives adequate sunlight.
Soil
Baseball plants require coarse, well-draining potting soil in order to thrive and should be planted in a potting mix intended for cacti and succulents. Cactus soil is available at most commercial nurseries and garden centers, but if you don’t have one readily available you can easily make your own by mixing 3 parts regular potting soil, 2 parts coarse sand, and 1 part perlite.
Water
Baseball plants, like most succulents and cacti, do not tolerate overwatering. Water the plant only when the soil is thoroughly dry. Baseball plants require more water during the spring and summer months, and significantly less water during their dormant period in the fall and winter months.
Temperature and Humidity
Baseball plants appreciate warm temperatures. When grown inside, the average household temperature is more than sufficient. However, be careful to avoid placing your baseball plant in areas with cold drafts, as it can inhibit growth. If grown outdoors, they can tolerate occasional temperatures down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, baseball plants do not require regular fertilization, as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil. However, fertilizing your baseball plant during the spring can help it to thrive during its peak growing season. Be sure to use a cactus/succulent fertilizer for the best results.
Propagating Baseball Plant
Like other species of Euphorbia, baseball plant is difficult to propagate from seeds, since male and female plants require cross-pollination in order to produce seeds. Further, the seeds are very slow-growing.
Euphorbias such as E. obesa, which have a single stem structure rather than individual branches, are normally propagated by first decapitating the plant at soil level. When small new growth structures emerge around the remaining root body, each new offset can be carefully cut away and replanted in coarse cactus/succulent planting mix. These are quite -growing plants that can take as much as eight years before they mature into flowering plants.
Potting and Repotting
Baseball plants do well in any coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents. They do not require frequent repotting, and should only be repotted once the circumference of the plant is pushing against the edge of the pot. Protective gardening gloves should be worn at all times while repotting baseball plants as their sap can irritate the skin upon contact.
These long-lived, slow-growing succulents are characterized by bulbous shape, V-shaped markings, and seam-like ridges that resemble stitching. Rather than branches or leaves, the plant consists of a single wide stem body from which the flowers sprout. Young baseball plants are round in shape but become more elongated and cylindrically shaped with maturity. Baseball plants are also called sea urchin plants since they loosely resemble that creature.
The plants are dioecious, with either male or female flowers that are yellow in color and rather insignificant in appearance. To produce seeds, the female flowers must be cross-pollinated by a male plant, and for this reason, the plant is rarely propagated by seed except in the nursery trade.
Botanical Name Euphorbia obesa
Common Name Baseball plant, sea urchin plant
Plant Type Succulent perennial
Mature Size 7 to 8 inches tall, up to 4 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, direct light; tolerates some shade
Soil Type Well-draining cactus/succulent potting mix
Soil pH 6.0–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer (flowers are fairly insignificant)
Flower Color Grayish-green
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA); grown as houseplants in all zones
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Baseball Plant Care
Baseball plants are relatively easy plants to care for as long as their light and water requirements are met. They thrive if grown in a standard coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents and placed in a location that receives plenty of sunlight or at constant bright indirect light. They are slow-growing plants that can be allowed to fill their pots before repotting becomes necessary. Few houseplants require less care than baseball plants.
Baseball plants do not produce leaves or foliage but they do produce small, fragrant flowers in the summer months. The tough stem structures are largely impervious to pest and disease problems, but if overwatered or allowed to soak in water, the roots may develop rot.
Light
In their native habitat, baseball plants are accustomed to plenty of bright, direct sunlight. When grown indoors, baseball plants should receive at least four hours of direct sunlight a day if possible. Loss of color and pattern, as well as a loss of shape, are all indications that your baseball plant is not receiving enough light; etiolated ("leggy") growth is another indication. Place your baseball plant in a south or east-facing window in your home to ensure it receives adequate sunlight.
Soil
Baseball plants require coarse, well-draining potting soil in order to thrive and should be planted in a potting mix intended for cacti and succulents. Cactus soil is available at most commercial nurseries and garden centers, but if you don’t have one readily available you can easily make your own by mixing 3 parts regular potting soil, 2 parts coarse sand, and 1 part perlite.
Water
Baseball plants, like most succulents and cacti, do not tolerate overwatering. Water the plant only when the soil is thoroughly dry. Baseball plants require more water during the spring and summer months, and significantly less water during their dormant period in the fall and winter months.
Temperature and Humidity
Baseball plants appreciate warm temperatures. When grown inside, the average household temperature is more than sufficient. However, be careful to avoid placing your baseball plant in areas with cold drafts, as it can inhibit growth. If grown outdoors, they can tolerate occasional temperatures down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, baseball plants do not require regular fertilization, as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil. However, fertilizing your baseball plant during the spring can help it to thrive during its peak growing season. Be sure to use a cactus/succulent fertilizer for the best results.
Propagating Baseball Plant
Like other species of Euphorbia, baseball plant is difficult to propagate from seeds, since male and female plants require cross-pollination in order to produce seeds. Further, the seeds are very slow-growing.
Euphorbias such as E. obesa, which have a single stem structure rather than individual branches, are normally propagated by first decapitating the plant at soil level. When small new growth structures emerge around the remaining root body, each new offset can be carefully cut away and replanted in coarse cactus/succulent planting mix. These are quite -growing plants that can take as much as eight years before they mature into flowering plants.
Potting and Repotting
Baseball plants do well in any coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents. They do not require frequent repotting, and should only be repotted once the circumference of the plant is pushing against the edge of the pot. Protective gardening gloves should be worn at all times while repotting baseball plants as their sap can irritate the skin upon contact.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月26日
There are dozens of species and varieties of banana and plantain trees (Musa spp.). While these tropical fruiting plants are commonly referred to as trees, they’re technically huge herbaceous plants, meaning they don’t have a woody stem. Instead, they have fleshy, upright stalks from which large, oblong, bright green leaves grow. Showy flowers appear typically in the spring, giving way to the fleshy, elongated, green or yellow fruit.
No matter the size of your yard or home, there is a banana tree to fit. Plus, they can make good houseplants with enough light, though they typically don't bear fruit indoors. Banana trees generally have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Names Banana tree, plantain tree
Botanical Name Musa spp.
Family Musaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–30 ft. tall, 1–15 ft. wide (varies widely by species)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White, purple, orange
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Africa, Australia
Banana Tree Care
While most species grow best in warm climates, there also are somewhat cold-hardy banana trees. If you're planting the banana tree outdoors, choosing the right planting site is key to making care easy. Grow this plant in a location where it will be sheltered from strong winds, as it is very susceptible to damaged leaves. Prepare your planting site by mixing some compost into the soil. And make sure you have enough space for the height and spread of your particular species.
During the growing season (spring to fall), banana trees are water hogs. You might have to water daily, especially during hot weather, to maintain adequate soil moisture. The plants also will need regular fertilization throughout the growing season. Bananas form in the late summer in a cluster called a hand. Once the fruit is green but plumped up, it can be cut off the stalk and placed in a cool, dry space to finish ripening.
Light
Most types of bananas plants prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, some varieties can scorch easily and will do better in partial shade.
Soil
These plants love organically rich, deep soil with good drainage and a slightly acidic soil pH. They typically have poor tolerance for salt in the soil.
Water
Banana trees are tropical and originate in rainforests, so they need a lot of water and plenty of moisture in the air. They do best when planted in groups fairly close together, as this helps to retain moisture in the leaves. Water regularly to make sure the soil stays evenly moist but not soggy. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants thrive in warm, humid conditions, but they don't like temperature extremes. Even the hardy, cold-tolerant banana tree species prefer consistent temperatures ranging between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Cold temperatures and dry conditions can cause the plants to quickly die back. To increase the level of humidity, mist the leaves daily.
Fertilizer
Banana trees are heavy feeders. Apply a balanced fertilizer regularly throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Also, mix compost into the soil annually to raise the level of organic matter.
Types of Banana Trees
There are roughly 70 species and even more varieties of banana trees, including:
Musa acuminata: This species reaches around 12 to 20 feet tall and is often grown for its ornamental foliage thanks to its paddle-shaped leaves that can reach around 6 to 10 inches long.
Musa ornata: Commonly referred to as the flowering banana, this species is mostly grown for its ornamental value; its small fruit is not typically eaten.
Musa basjoo: Known as the Japanese banana, this species has fairly good cold tolerance and reaches around 6 to 14 feet tall.
Pruning
Before the banana tree fruits, prune it so there is only one main stem. After it has been growing for six to eight months, leave one sucker (small shoot at the base of the stem). This plant will replace the main stem in the next growing season. After the fruit is removed, cut the main stem down to 2.5 feet. Remove the rest of the stem in a few weeks, leaving the replacement sucker intact.
Propagating Banana Trees
The best method of propagation is division. To divide banana plants, separate the suckers from the rhizome (horizontal underground stem) using a sharp spade. Before you do this, wait until the suckers are at least 3 feet tall and have their own roots. Once you separate a sucker from the parent plant, allow the surface of the rhizome section to dry for a day or so. At this point, it will be ready for replanting in any appropriate location.
Potting and Repotting Banana Trees
Banana trees can grow in containers, but they generally will need at least a 15-gallon pot at minimum for optimal growth. Ensure that the pot has drainage holes, and use a loose, organically rich potting mix. A benefit to potting your banana tree is you will be able to bring it indoors to shelter it from cold and inclement weather. However, potted banana trees tend to have higher watering and feeding needs, as they will use up what is in their limited soil faster than banana trees in the ground. In addition, they likely won't reach their maximum size and might not bear fruit. Still, many people prefer them for their foliage. You typically will need to divide and repot container banana trees every three years, separating any suckers from the parent plant.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Owners of banana trees need to stay vigilant of the many pests and diseases that can afflict a banana tree. Pests include the following:
Aphids: These pests cause curled and shriveled foliage and can also transmit other diseases that will affect any fruit produced.
Black weevils: If you see jelly-like sap oozing from the plant, you may have black weevils that can be eliminated with pesticides.
Nematodes: This is the banana tree's most common pest that will rot the plant and fruit.
Sap-sucking insects:Mealybugs and red spider mites are also common to banana trees.
Scarring beetle: This pest invades bunches of the plant's fruit and can be eliminated with pesticide.
Thrips: This pest will stain and split the peel of the plant's fruit.
There are many diseases common to banana trees in large orchards and are taken care of with commercial fungicides and pesticides. As for indoor potted banana trees, be on the lookout for root rot, leaf-spot disease, wilt, and powdery mildew.
No matter the size of your yard or home, there is a banana tree to fit. Plus, they can make good houseplants with enough light, though they typically don't bear fruit indoors. Banana trees generally have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Names Banana tree, plantain tree
Botanical Name Musa spp.
Family Musaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–30 ft. tall, 1–15 ft. wide (varies widely by species)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White, purple, orange
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Africa, Australia
Banana Tree Care
While most species grow best in warm climates, there also are somewhat cold-hardy banana trees. If you're planting the banana tree outdoors, choosing the right planting site is key to making care easy. Grow this plant in a location where it will be sheltered from strong winds, as it is very susceptible to damaged leaves. Prepare your planting site by mixing some compost into the soil. And make sure you have enough space for the height and spread of your particular species.
During the growing season (spring to fall), banana trees are water hogs. You might have to water daily, especially during hot weather, to maintain adequate soil moisture. The plants also will need regular fertilization throughout the growing season. Bananas form in the late summer in a cluster called a hand. Once the fruit is green but plumped up, it can be cut off the stalk and placed in a cool, dry space to finish ripening.
Light
Most types of bananas plants prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, some varieties can scorch easily and will do better in partial shade.
Soil
These plants love organically rich, deep soil with good drainage and a slightly acidic soil pH. They typically have poor tolerance for salt in the soil.
Water
Banana trees are tropical and originate in rainforests, so they need a lot of water and plenty of moisture in the air. They do best when planted in groups fairly close together, as this helps to retain moisture in the leaves. Water regularly to make sure the soil stays evenly moist but not soggy. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants thrive in warm, humid conditions, but they don't like temperature extremes. Even the hardy, cold-tolerant banana tree species prefer consistent temperatures ranging between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Cold temperatures and dry conditions can cause the plants to quickly die back. To increase the level of humidity, mist the leaves daily.
Fertilizer
Banana trees are heavy feeders. Apply a balanced fertilizer regularly throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Also, mix compost into the soil annually to raise the level of organic matter.
Types of Banana Trees
There are roughly 70 species and even more varieties of banana trees, including:
Musa acuminata: This species reaches around 12 to 20 feet tall and is often grown for its ornamental foliage thanks to its paddle-shaped leaves that can reach around 6 to 10 inches long.
Musa ornata: Commonly referred to as the flowering banana, this species is mostly grown for its ornamental value; its small fruit is not typically eaten.
Musa basjoo: Known as the Japanese banana, this species has fairly good cold tolerance and reaches around 6 to 14 feet tall.
Pruning
Before the banana tree fruits, prune it so there is only one main stem. After it has been growing for six to eight months, leave one sucker (small shoot at the base of the stem). This plant will replace the main stem in the next growing season. After the fruit is removed, cut the main stem down to 2.5 feet. Remove the rest of the stem in a few weeks, leaving the replacement sucker intact.
Propagating Banana Trees
The best method of propagation is division. To divide banana plants, separate the suckers from the rhizome (horizontal underground stem) using a sharp spade. Before you do this, wait until the suckers are at least 3 feet tall and have their own roots. Once you separate a sucker from the parent plant, allow the surface of the rhizome section to dry for a day or so. At this point, it will be ready for replanting in any appropriate location.
Potting and Repotting Banana Trees
Banana trees can grow in containers, but they generally will need at least a 15-gallon pot at minimum for optimal growth. Ensure that the pot has drainage holes, and use a loose, organically rich potting mix. A benefit to potting your banana tree is you will be able to bring it indoors to shelter it from cold and inclement weather. However, potted banana trees tend to have higher watering and feeding needs, as they will use up what is in their limited soil faster than banana trees in the ground. In addition, they likely won't reach their maximum size and might not bear fruit. Still, many people prefer them for their foliage. You typically will need to divide and repot container banana trees every three years, separating any suckers from the parent plant.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Owners of banana trees need to stay vigilant of the many pests and diseases that can afflict a banana tree. Pests include the following:
Aphids: These pests cause curled and shriveled foliage and can also transmit other diseases that will affect any fruit produced.
Black weevils: If you see jelly-like sap oozing from the plant, you may have black weevils that can be eliminated with pesticides.
Nematodes: This is the banana tree's most common pest that will rot the plant and fruit.
Sap-sucking insects:Mealybugs and red spider mites are also common to banana trees.
Scarring beetle: This pest invades bunches of the plant's fruit and can be eliminated with pesticide.
Thrips: This pest will stain and split the peel of the plant's fruit.
There are many diseases common to banana trees in large orchards and are taken care of with commercial fungicides and pesticides. As for indoor potted banana trees, be on the lookout for root rot, leaf-spot disease, wilt, and powdery mildew.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月24日
Despite its name, bamboo palms (Chamaedorea seifrizii) are not bamboo at all but are a type of palm in the Araceae family. These tropical plants are native to Mexico and Central America and grow naturally as forest understory plants. They are ideal houseplants that can add a tropical feel to any room. Plus, they are listed on NASA's clean air varieties list
8 Palms Plants to Grow Indoors
Botanical Name Chamaedorea seifrizii
Common Name Bamboo palm
Plant Type Perennial, clustered parlour palm, reed palm, cane palm
Mature Size 4-12 ft. tall, 3-5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange
Hardiness Zones 10-11, USA
Native Area Central America
Bamboo Palm Care
Bamboo palms are popular houseplants because they are low-maintenance and they do well in a variety of lighting conditions. They do require consistent moisture, so if you tend to under-water your plants you may want to skip this palm.
Light
Bamboo palms are the perfect tropical plant for medium to low-light conditions. Unlike other palms, they do not require bright light in order to thrive. They do well in a variety of light conditions ranging from low light to bright light, and can even tolerate being placed in north-facing windows. Avoid hot, direct sunlight as it will burn their delicate leaves.
Soil
Moist but well-draining soil is best for bamboo palms. Soil that is porous but humus-rich is ideal. Amending standard potting soil with peat moss, orchid bark, and perlite is a great DIY soil mix for bamboo palms.
Water
The soil of bamboo palms should be kept evenly moist, but never waterlogged. Bamboo palms are sensitive to both overwatering and under-watering, but it is always best to under-water rather than overwater. Allow the top of the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical palms enjoy warm temperatures and humid environments and are hardy in USDA zones 10-11. They are not frost-tolerant. Bamboo palms do well in typical household temperature and humidity levels but appreciate extra humidity where possible. Placing your palm near a humidifier or on a pebble tray will help to increase the humidity around the plant.
Fertilizer
Bamboo palms should be fertilized during the growing season to help encourage healthy growth. Granular, time-release fertilizers work best. Spread the fertilizer on top of the potting medium and ensure that you water it in. Avoid fertilizing during the fall and winter when the plant is in dormancy.
Pruning Bamboo Palms
These palms are low-maintenance and rarely need pruning. Consistently tidying up any dried, brown leaves or leaf tips will help keep the plant looking healthy and attractive.
Propagating Bamboo Palms
Bamboo palms are sensitive to trauma and can be tricky to propagate. Mature bamboo palms produce offshoots that can be separated and established as new plants.
Use a clean, sharp knife to separate offshoots from the mother plant. If the offshoots have their own root systems (which they should), ensure that you separate those as well. Pot the offshoots in loamy, well-draining soil and keep them in a consistently humid environment until established (approximately 2-3 months).
Potting and Repotting Bamboo Palms
Bamboo palms should be repotted once they have outgrown their previous container. They tend to be slow-growing so you should not need to repot them too often. Keep in mind that the plant will grow as large as the pot you give it—so if you want to keep your bamboo palm small, don’t increase the pot size very much when you repot. This will help to control the size of the palm.
Common Pests/Diseases
Bamboo palms are susceptible to a range of common houseplant pests such as mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies, fungus gnats, and scale. These pests can be mitigated with insecticide treatments if necessary. Be sure to regularly check over your bamboo palm for pests to help catch any infestations early.
8 Palms Plants to Grow Indoors
Botanical Name Chamaedorea seifrizii
Common Name Bamboo palm
Plant Type Perennial, clustered parlour palm, reed palm, cane palm
Mature Size 4-12 ft. tall, 3-5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange
Hardiness Zones 10-11, USA
Native Area Central America
Bamboo Palm Care
Bamboo palms are popular houseplants because they are low-maintenance and they do well in a variety of lighting conditions. They do require consistent moisture, so if you tend to under-water your plants you may want to skip this palm.
Light
Bamboo palms are the perfect tropical plant for medium to low-light conditions. Unlike other palms, they do not require bright light in order to thrive. They do well in a variety of light conditions ranging from low light to bright light, and can even tolerate being placed in north-facing windows. Avoid hot, direct sunlight as it will burn their delicate leaves.
Soil
Moist but well-draining soil is best for bamboo palms. Soil that is porous but humus-rich is ideal. Amending standard potting soil with peat moss, orchid bark, and perlite is a great DIY soil mix for bamboo palms.
Water
The soil of bamboo palms should be kept evenly moist, but never waterlogged. Bamboo palms are sensitive to both overwatering and under-watering, but it is always best to under-water rather than overwater. Allow the top of the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical palms enjoy warm temperatures and humid environments and are hardy in USDA zones 10-11. They are not frost-tolerant. Bamboo palms do well in typical household temperature and humidity levels but appreciate extra humidity where possible. Placing your palm near a humidifier or on a pebble tray will help to increase the humidity around the plant.
Fertilizer
Bamboo palms should be fertilized during the growing season to help encourage healthy growth. Granular, time-release fertilizers work best. Spread the fertilizer on top of the potting medium and ensure that you water it in. Avoid fertilizing during the fall and winter when the plant is in dormancy.
Pruning Bamboo Palms
These palms are low-maintenance and rarely need pruning. Consistently tidying up any dried, brown leaves or leaf tips will help keep the plant looking healthy and attractive.
Propagating Bamboo Palms
Bamboo palms are sensitive to trauma and can be tricky to propagate. Mature bamboo palms produce offshoots that can be separated and established as new plants.
Use a clean, sharp knife to separate offshoots from the mother plant. If the offshoots have their own root systems (which they should), ensure that you separate those as well. Pot the offshoots in loamy, well-draining soil and keep them in a consistently humid environment until established (approximately 2-3 months).
Potting and Repotting Bamboo Palms
Bamboo palms should be repotted once they have outgrown their previous container. They tend to be slow-growing so you should not need to repot them too often. Keep in mind that the plant will grow as large as the pot you give it—so if you want to keep your bamboo palm small, don’t increase the pot size very much when you repot. This will help to control the size of the palm.
Common Pests/Diseases
Bamboo palms are susceptible to a range of common houseplant pests such as mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies, fungus gnats, and scale. These pests can be mitigated with insecticide treatments if necessary. Be sure to regularly check over your bamboo palm for pests to help catch any infestations early.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月21日
Balloon flowers (Platycodon grandiflorus) are clump-forming perennials and members of the easy-to-grow bellflower family of plants although the blooms do not resemble bells. Instead, puffy, balloon-like buds swell up to produce the 2- to 3-inch star-shaped flowers. This easy-grower blooms all summer long with intense blue-violet flowers, but there are also cultivars with white and pink blooms. Balloon flowers are generally planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed, growing quickly to bloom in the first year.
Common Name Balloon flower, Chinese bellflower, Japanese bellflower
Botanical Name Platycodon grandiflorus
Family Campanulaceae (bellflower)
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1– 2 1/2 ft. tall, 1–1 1/2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, loamy, medium moisture, well-draining
Soil pH 5.5–7.5 (acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Blue-violet, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area China, Korea, Japan, Russia
Balloon Flower Care
Balloon flowers make excellent plants for border gardens or rock gardens and the blooms attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies thanks to their wide-open petals. These perennials will self-sow their seed, though they aren't aggressive spreaders. Overall, balloon flowers are fairly low-maintenance plants and are quite pest- and disease-resistant outside of root rot in areas with large amounts of rainfall.1
The taller varieties of balloon flowers can become a bit floppy. You can stake them or plant them in clumps to let them support one another. Start with nursery plants or grow your balloon flowers from seed.
Light
You will get the most flowers if you plant balloon flowers in full sun (at least six hours of sunlight on most days). However, they will be fine in part shade and might actually prefer some shade from where the afternoon sun is especially hot.
Soil
Balloon flowers prefer organically rich, loamy soil that has good drainage. They don’t grow well in dense soil, such as clay. They like a soil pH in the 5.5 to 7.5 range.
Water
Keep the soil of young plants consistently moist but not soggy. Once established, balloon flowers like a moderate amount of moisture in the soil, but they can tolerate short periods of drought. They won’t need a lot of supplemental watering unless you have a long period without rainfall that causes the soil to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
Balloon flowers are hardy and do well in USDA growing zones 3 to 8. Their ideal temperature range is between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, but they can withstand higher temperatures if they have some shade in the afternoon. Frost can kill young plants and will cause established plants to die back into the ground in the fall. Balloon flowers tolerate both humid and dry air conditions, provided they have the right amount of soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Balloon flowers typically don't need supplemental feeding if you have rich soil. But a layer of compost in the fall can help them replenish the energy they expend blooming during the growing season. If you have poor soil, use an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in early spring.
Types of Balloon Flowers
There are several popular varieties of balloon flowers, including:
Platycodon grandiflorus Astra series: This type grows double flowers with 10 petals in blue, pink, or white. They're an ideal choice to start from seeds.
P. grandiflorus Fuji series: This is the most commonly sold variety, as well as the tallest, with 30-inch stems and flowers in blue, pink, or white.
P. grandiflorus 'Komachi': The purple-blue flowers in this variety stay in their puffy pillow stage even after blooming.
P. 'Sentimental Blue': This dwarf variety grows about 6 inches tall with lots of 1- to 2-inch purple flowers.
Pruning
Pruning generally isn't necessary with balloon flowers, though you can do so for appearance. To achieve stockier plants, you can cut back tall stems by about half in the late spring. This can help to prevent the plants from flopping over. Also, deadheading your plants (removing spent blooms) will keep them looking good and repeatedly blooming. Don't remove the whole stem, just the faded flowers. The remaining buds on the stem will continue to open.
Propagating Balloon Flowers
Propagating by division is generally not recommended for balloon flowers because the deep taproots do not like being disturbed. Instead, you can propagate by taking stem cuttings.
Use sterile, sharp pruners to trim a 4-inch length of stem, and remove the lower foliage to expose the bare stem.
Use a rooting hormone on the bare stem if you wish, and then pot it in moist soil.
Keep the soil moist (but not soggy) as you wait for roots to take hold.
Once you see leaf growth and feel resistance when you give the cutting a gentle tug, you’ll know roots have grown. Then, the plant is ready to be transplanted into the garden.
How to Grow Balloon Flowers From Seed
Start seeds indoors in the early spring about six to eight weeks before your area's projected last frost date, using seed starter mix or ordinary potting soil. Barely cover the seeds with 1/16 inch of soil. Place the container in a warm location until the seeds germinate. After the weather has warmed, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors. If you plant seeds directly in your garden, do so after your last frost date, but know they likely won't flower in their first year.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Balloon flowers generally attract slugs and snails, as do many other outdoor bloomers, which can be coaxed off the plants with bait. However, the plant may become afflicted with crown rot, root rot, botrytis gray mold, powdery mildew, or fungal leaf spot. Crown and root rot may cause plants to die over the winter. Leaves presenting powdery spots, mottling, or blotching can usually be treated with a fungicide. Quickly discard plants with gray mold so it doesn't spread, then use a preventative fungicide on remaining plants.
Common Name Balloon flower, Chinese bellflower, Japanese bellflower
Botanical Name Platycodon grandiflorus
Family Campanulaceae (bellflower)
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1– 2 1/2 ft. tall, 1–1 1/2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, loamy, medium moisture, well-draining
Soil pH 5.5–7.5 (acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Blue-violet, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area China, Korea, Japan, Russia
Balloon Flower Care
Balloon flowers make excellent plants for border gardens or rock gardens and the blooms attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies thanks to their wide-open petals. These perennials will self-sow their seed, though they aren't aggressive spreaders. Overall, balloon flowers are fairly low-maintenance plants and are quite pest- and disease-resistant outside of root rot in areas with large amounts of rainfall.1
The taller varieties of balloon flowers can become a bit floppy. You can stake them or plant them in clumps to let them support one another. Start with nursery plants or grow your balloon flowers from seed.
Light
You will get the most flowers if you plant balloon flowers in full sun (at least six hours of sunlight on most days). However, they will be fine in part shade and might actually prefer some shade from where the afternoon sun is especially hot.
Soil
Balloon flowers prefer organically rich, loamy soil that has good drainage. They don’t grow well in dense soil, such as clay. They like a soil pH in the 5.5 to 7.5 range.
Water
Keep the soil of young plants consistently moist but not soggy. Once established, balloon flowers like a moderate amount of moisture in the soil, but they can tolerate short periods of drought. They won’t need a lot of supplemental watering unless you have a long period without rainfall that causes the soil to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
Balloon flowers are hardy and do well in USDA growing zones 3 to 8. Their ideal temperature range is between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, but they can withstand higher temperatures if they have some shade in the afternoon. Frost can kill young plants and will cause established plants to die back into the ground in the fall. Balloon flowers tolerate both humid and dry air conditions, provided they have the right amount of soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Balloon flowers typically don't need supplemental feeding if you have rich soil. But a layer of compost in the fall can help them replenish the energy they expend blooming during the growing season. If you have poor soil, use an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in early spring.
Types of Balloon Flowers
There are several popular varieties of balloon flowers, including:
Platycodon grandiflorus Astra series: This type grows double flowers with 10 petals in blue, pink, or white. They're an ideal choice to start from seeds.
P. grandiflorus Fuji series: This is the most commonly sold variety, as well as the tallest, with 30-inch stems and flowers in blue, pink, or white.
P. grandiflorus 'Komachi': The purple-blue flowers in this variety stay in their puffy pillow stage even after blooming.
P. 'Sentimental Blue': This dwarf variety grows about 6 inches tall with lots of 1- to 2-inch purple flowers.
Pruning
Pruning generally isn't necessary with balloon flowers, though you can do so for appearance. To achieve stockier plants, you can cut back tall stems by about half in the late spring. This can help to prevent the plants from flopping over. Also, deadheading your plants (removing spent blooms) will keep them looking good and repeatedly blooming. Don't remove the whole stem, just the faded flowers. The remaining buds on the stem will continue to open.
Propagating Balloon Flowers
Propagating by division is generally not recommended for balloon flowers because the deep taproots do not like being disturbed. Instead, you can propagate by taking stem cuttings.
Use sterile, sharp pruners to trim a 4-inch length of stem, and remove the lower foliage to expose the bare stem.
Use a rooting hormone on the bare stem if you wish, and then pot it in moist soil.
Keep the soil moist (but not soggy) as you wait for roots to take hold.
Once you see leaf growth and feel resistance when you give the cutting a gentle tug, you’ll know roots have grown. Then, the plant is ready to be transplanted into the garden.
How to Grow Balloon Flowers From Seed
Start seeds indoors in the early spring about six to eight weeks before your area's projected last frost date, using seed starter mix or ordinary potting soil. Barely cover the seeds with 1/16 inch of soil. Place the container in a warm location until the seeds germinate. After the weather has warmed, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors. If you plant seeds directly in your garden, do so after your last frost date, but know they likely won't flower in their first year.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Balloon flowers generally attract slugs and snails, as do many other outdoor bloomers, which can be coaxed off the plants with bait. However, the plant may become afflicted with crown rot, root rot, botrytis gray mold, powdery mildew, or fungal leaf spot. Crown and root rot may cause plants to die over the winter. Leaves presenting powdery spots, mottling, or blotching can usually be treated with a fungicide. Quickly discard plants with gray mold so it doesn't spread, then use a preventative fungicide on remaining plants.
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