文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Distorted flowers on purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) caused by aster yellows
Aster yellows is a viral-like disease caused by a phytoplasma (formerly called a mycoplasma-like organism). Insects that suck the sap of plants, especially the aster leafhopper, vector the disease. Aster leafhoppers are insects that annually migrate northward from their winter home in areas along the Gulf of Mexico. Aster yellows is a disease that affects over 300 species of plants, including ornamentals such as aster, coneflower, zinnia, marigold, chrysanthemum, petunia, and snapdragon. Edibles affected include lettuce, carrot, tomato, and celery. Grasses and grains also are hosts. Weeds that may harbor the disease include plantain, dandelion, and other broad-leafed weeds.
Aster yellows is primarily transmitted by leafhoppers. When a leafhopper feeds on a plant infected with aster yellows it becomes "infected" with the phytoplasma and remains infected throughout its life. The phytoplasma cells multiply and cause infection of the insect’s salivary glands within one to three weeks. When the infected insects feed on healthy plants, they inject the phytoplasma cells into the plant phloem. Susceptible plants will be symptomatic in 10 to 40 days.
The spread of aster yellows is worse in cool, wet summers. Hot dry weather is not favorable for either the phytoplasma or the leafhopper. As with many disease and pest problems, diagnosis is perhaps the most important factor in controlling aster yellows.
A somewhat similar appearing problem on coneflowers is caused by an eriophyid mite. Experts are still sorting this problem out but the lower pictures on this page may be caused by this yet unnamed eriophyid mite. At present the common name used for this disorder is coneflower rosette mite. It may be a controllable problem through sanitation practices (disposal of all affected flowers as they appear and all foliage in the fall) unlike aster yellows for which there is no cure other than to destroy infected plants.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Chlorosis, yellowing of the leaves while the veins remain green, is a major symptom of aster yellows. Growth slows down and leaves may be smaller and more narrow than usual. Foliage is sometimes curled. Flowers may be deformed and exhibit bizarre tufts of deformed leaves inside the flower or in place of the flower. Flowers may not produce seeds. The symptoms of the disease will often differ depending upon what species is infected. For instance, carrot roots may be bitter and hairy while lettuce may show pink or tan spots and have twisted inner leaves.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased plants. Once a plant is infected with aster yellows, it is a lost cause since the disease is incurable. Early diagnosis and prompt removal of infected plants may help reduce the spread of the disease. Although the disease itself is not fatal to the plant, its presence makes it impossible for a plant to fulfill its intended role in the garden.
2. Plant less susceptible plant species. Controlling aster yellows is difficult. As long as infected leafhoppers are around, they can infect plants. A practical way to avoid having problems with this disease is to grow plants that are not as susceptible to aster yellows. Verbena, salvia, nicotiana, geranium, cockscomb, and impatiens are among the least susceptible plants.
3. Control insects. Vegetable growers may protect susceptible crops by using the mesh fabrics that keep leafhoppers and other insects away from the plants. Some growers put strips of aluminum foil between rows because bright reflections of sunlight confuse the leafhoppers.
4. Control weeds. Remove weeds in your lawn, garden, and surrounding areas, including plantain and dandelion that may harbor the disease.
Aster yellows is a viral-like disease caused by a phytoplasma (formerly called a mycoplasma-like organism). Insects that suck the sap of plants, especially the aster leafhopper, vector the disease. Aster leafhoppers are insects that annually migrate northward from their winter home in areas along the Gulf of Mexico. Aster yellows is a disease that affects over 300 species of plants, including ornamentals such as aster, coneflower, zinnia, marigold, chrysanthemum, petunia, and snapdragon. Edibles affected include lettuce, carrot, tomato, and celery. Grasses and grains also are hosts. Weeds that may harbor the disease include plantain, dandelion, and other broad-leafed weeds.
Aster yellows is primarily transmitted by leafhoppers. When a leafhopper feeds on a plant infected with aster yellows it becomes "infected" with the phytoplasma and remains infected throughout its life. The phytoplasma cells multiply and cause infection of the insect’s salivary glands within one to three weeks. When the infected insects feed on healthy plants, they inject the phytoplasma cells into the plant phloem. Susceptible plants will be symptomatic in 10 to 40 days.
The spread of aster yellows is worse in cool, wet summers. Hot dry weather is not favorable for either the phytoplasma or the leafhopper. As with many disease and pest problems, diagnosis is perhaps the most important factor in controlling aster yellows.
A somewhat similar appearing problem on coneflowers is caused by an eriophyid mite. Experts are still sorting this problem out but the lower pictures on this page may be caused by this yet unnamed eriophyid mite. At present the common name used for this disorder is coneflower rosette mite. It may be a controllable problem through sanitation practices (disposal of all affected flowers as they appear and all foliage in the fall) unlike aster yellows for which there is no cure other than to destroy infected plants.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Chlorosis, yellowing of the leaves while the veins remain green, is a major symptom of aster yellows. Growth slows down and leaves may be smaller and more narrow than usual. Foliage is sometimes curled. Flowers may be deformed and exhibit bizarre tufts of deformed leaves inside the flower or in place of the flower. Flowers may not produce seeds. The symptoms of the disease will often differ depending upon what species is infected. For instance, carrot roots may be bitter and hairy while lettuce may show pink or tan spots and have twisted inner leaves.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased plants. Once a plant is infected with aster yellows, it is a lost cause since the disease is incurable. Early diagnosis and prompt removal of infected plants may help reduce the spread of the disease. Although the disease itself is not fatal to the plant, its presence makes it impossible for a plant to fulfill its intended role in the garden.
2. Plant less susceptible plant species. Controlling aster yellows is difficult. As long as infected leafhoppers are around, they can infect plants. A practical way to avoid having problems with this disease is to grow plants that are not as susceptible to aster yellows. Verbena, salvia, nicotiana, geranium, cockscomb, and impatiens are among the least susceptible plants.
3. Control insects. Vegetable growers may protect susceptible crops by using the mesh fabrics that keep leafhoppers and other insects away from the plants. Some growers put strips of aluminum foil between rows because bright reflections of sunlight confuse the leafhoppers.
4. Control weeds. Remove weeds in your lawn, garden, and surrounding areas, including plantain and dandelion that may harbor the disease.
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求助
Katrina
2017年09月16日
My Senecio Vitalis (Blue Chalk Fingers) plant keeps having limbs shrivel and die! Please help! I keep it out of direct sunlight and only water it every 3 to 4 days depending on need. I just separated the roots of the two plants and repoted a week ago.
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sunnyzou：maybe you hurt the roots when you repotting. no direct sunlight until they recovered growth.
Ueca：I know this sounds somewhat counter-intuitive, but try giving it a bit more sunlight.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Wilting plant leaves, sagging stems, and aborting flowers and fruits. Dry soil, especially where new plants have not had a chance to put down deep roots. Dry compost in pots and hanging baskets, and pots blowing over.
Plants affected
All plants are affected.
About Wilting through lack of water
Plants have a vascular system which enables water and nutrients to be taken from the environment through a complex root system.
The continual flow of water and nutrients ensures that the vascular system remains firm, and that the plant continues to grow in a healthy way.
Lack of water results in a loss of firmness which causes the symptoms of wilting.
Plants respond to lack of water by closing down areas of the vascular system, which consequently results in leaf, flower and fruit loss.
Plants can usually recover from short periods of lack of water, but sustained periods of drought often result in death.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Wilting through lack of water
There is no chemical control available for this problem.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Water wilted plants as soon as possible.
Plunge pots with very wilted plants into a bucket of water for an hour or so.
After plunging or watering, place pots with wilted plants in the shade to recover, and consider moving them to a shady spot permanently.
Move wilted plants out of windy spots, and avoid putting them back in the same place.
If the problem is affecting plants in the greenhouse, after watering them, damp down the floor with a hose or watering can.
Prevention
Regularly monitor plants for wilting symptoms.
Design a watering schedule for plants based on their individual needs. As a general guide, pots need watering once a day, hanging baskets twice a day, new plants in the border need careful monitoring in their first year and will probably need watering two or three times a week. Established border plants will have deeper roots and will benefit most from one long drink each week rather than a daily dose.
For potted and hanging basket plants, water-retaining gel granules can be used in the compost.
The base of the pot or basket can also be lined with a plastic bag to help retain water. If lining a pot, make a few small holes in the bag with a kitchen fork so the compost does not get waterlogged.
Avoid planting delicate plants in locations of intense sunlight, or strong winds.
During summer use shading to protect greenhouse crops.
Incorporating mulch and organic material into the soil improves its water retention.
Plants affected
All plants are affected.
About Wilting through lack of water
Plants have a vascular system which enables water and nutrients to be taken from the environment through a complex root system.
The continual flow of water and nutrients ensures that the vascular system remains firm, and that the plant continues to grow in a healthy way.
Lack of water results in a loss of firmness which causes the symptoms of wilting.
Plants respond to lack of water by closing down areas of the vascular system, which consequently results in leaf, flower and fruit loss.
Plants can usually recover from short periods of lack of water, but sustained periods of drought often result in death.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Wilting through lack of water
There is no chemical control available for this problem.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Water wilted plants as soon as possible.
Plunge pots with very wilted plants into a bucket of water for an hour or so.
After plunging or watering, place pots with wilted plants in the shade to recover, and consider moving them to a shady spot permanently.
Move wilted plants out of windy spots, and avoid putting them back in the same place.
If the problem is affecting plants in the greenhouse, after watering them, damp down the floor with a hose or watering can.
Prevention
Regularly monitor plants for wilting symptoms.
Design a watering schedule for plants based on their individual needs. As a general guide, pots need watering once a day, hanging baskets twice a day, new plants in the border need careful monitoring in their first year and will probably need watering two or three times a week. Established border plants will have deeper roots and will benefit most from one long drink each week rather than a daily dose.
For potted and hanging basket plants, water-retaining gel granules can be used in the compost.
The base of the pot or basket can also be lined with a plastic bag to help retain water. If lining a pot, make a few small holes in the bag with a kitchen fork so the compost does not get waterlogged.
Avoid planting delicate plants in locations of intense sunlight, or strong winds.
During summer use shading to protect greenhouse crops.
Incorporating mulch and organic material into the soil improves its water retention.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Small silver patches and black dots on the leaves. Feeding thrips can also turn petals on flowers brown. New growth can be distorted, browning and curled.
Plants affected
Virtually all garden plants can be affected, from ornamental species, to fruit, vegetable, and cereal crops. Flowers and leaves of plants are most affected.
About Thrips
Thrips are sometimes known as thunderflies or thunderbugs.
There are over 3000 recorded species worldwide, with over 150 in the UK.
They are typically small, slender, dark-coloured insects about 2mm long or less and usually have two pairs of feather-like wings.
Thrips rasp through upper leaf cells to feed on plant sap, causing a silvering appearance.
Thrip droppings are minute black specks on the leaves.
Thrips have six lifecycle stages including egg, larvae, pupa and adult.
Larvae and pupae can be a lighter colour than adults.
Females have a serrated tube for laying eggs into plant tissue.
They are predominantly a summer pest, favouring warm temperatures and dry conditions.
Thundery conditions trigger swarming.
Some species can transmit viruses such as tomato spotted wilt virus.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Thrips
Pyrethrins
Methiocarb
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Release the predatory mite Amblyseius cucumeris, and predatory bug Orius laevigatus.
Spray organic plant oils approved for use on plants.
Remove and destroy infested leaves, particularly silvery areas where eggs are present.
Prevention
Thoroughly clean greenhouses at the end of the season to remove any over-wintering thrips.
Use sticky traps to monitor the first appearance of thrips. Blue coloured traps are thought to be more effective than other colours.
Netting and fleeces can be used as a barrier between plants.
Plants affected
Virtually all garden plants can be affected, from ornamental species, to fruit, vegetable, and cereal crops. Flowers and leaves of plants are most affected.
About Thrips
Thrips are sometimes known as thunderflies or thunderbugs.
There are over 3000 recorded species worldwide, with over 150 in the UK.
They are typically small, slender, dark-coloured insects about 2mm long or less and usually have two pairs of feather-like wings.
Thrips rasp through upper leaf cells to feed on plant sap, causing a silvering appearance.
Thrip droppings are minute black specks on the leaves.
Thrips have six lifecycle stages including egg, larvae, pupa and adult.
Larvae and pupae can be a lighter colour than adults.
Females have a serrated tube for laying eggs into plant tissue.
They are predominantly a summer pest, favouring warm temperatures and dry conditions.
Thundery conditions trigger swarming.
Some species can transmit viruses such as tomato spotted wilt virus.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Thrips
Pyrethrins
Methiocarb
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Release the predatory mite Amblyseius cucumeris, and predatory bug Orius laevigatus.
Spray organic plant oils approved for use on plants.
Remove and destroy infested leaves, particularly silvery areas where eggs are present.
Prevention
Thoroughly clean greenhouses at the end of the season to remove any over-wintering thrips.
Use sticky traps to monitor the first appearance of thrips. Blue coloured traps are thought to be more effective than other colours.
Netting and fleeces can be used as a barrier between plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Rapid or gradual defoliation, where the lower leaves of the plant turn yellow and fall; wilting, drooping, spotted or stunted plants; or grey powdery mould round the stem, leaves or flowers. These symptoms can be indicative of other problems, but the presence of rotten roots as well would be a strong indication of water-logging.
Plants affected
Potentially all plants, but while drought damage occurs commonly in both outdoor and house-plants, over watering is relatively rare outdoors. It is probably the commonest cause of decline in house-plants, however, and much more serious than under watering.
About over watering
Plants vary hugely in the amount of water they need. It will depend very much on the type of plant, the season, the temperature and the climate.
Over watering is more damaging to the plant than under-watering. The rate of evaporation of water from the leaves, and the rate of transpiration through the stem and roots both affect the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the plant. The presence of too much water prevents the diffusion of these gases.
The commonest symptom is the yellowing of leaves.
Lack of oxygen to roots causes general stunting and encourages the development of rotting organisms.
Preventing further damage
For house plants check carefully their water requirements and water accordingly. Not many flourish when standing permanently in dishes of water.
Outdoors, check the soil condition: turning over heavy, loamy soils will aerate them and improve drainage.
Water slowly to prevent soaking some areas and leaving others dry.
Water in the morning when it is cool – during the day too much evaporation will occur and later in the evening humid conditions will cause fungal growth.
Always allow the saucers of pot plants to dry fully between waterings.
Make sure pots and plenty of drainage holes and fill bottom of pots with crocks, grit or gravel to prevent the holes becoming clogged.
Plants affected
Potentially all plants, but while drought damage occurs commonly in both outdoor and house-plants, over watering is relatively rare outdoors. It is probably the commonest cause of decline in house-plants, however, and much more serious than under watering.
About over watering
Plants vary hugely in the amount of water they need. It will depend very much on the type of plant, the season, the temperature and the climate.
Over watering is more damaging to the plant than under-watering. The rate of evaporation of water from the leaves, and the rate of transpiration through the stem and roots both affect the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the plant. The presence of too much water prevents the diffusion of these gases.
The commonest symptom is the yellowing of leaves.
Lack of oxygen to roots causes general stunting and encourages the development of rotting organisms.
Preventing further damage
For house plants check carefully their water requirements and water accordingly. Not many flourish when standing permanently in dishes of water.
Outdoors, check the soil condition: turning over heavy, loamy soils will aerate them and improve drainage.
Water slowly to prevent soaking some areas and leaving others dry.
Water in the morning when it is cool – during the day too much evaporation will occur and later in the evening humid conditions will cause fungal growth.
Always allow the saucers of pot plants to dry fully between waterings.
Make sure pots and plenty of drainage holes and fill bottom of pots with crocks, grit or gravel to prevent the holes becoming clogged.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Yellowing or reddening of leaves, discoloured or aborting fruits and flowers, and poor plant growth. Fruits can become misshapen and display brown leathery patches.
Plants affected
All plants can be affected.
About Nutrient deficiency
In order to develop and complete their life-cycle without sustaining damage to new growth, flowers or fruit, plants require nutrients.
To maximise efficiency, nutrient supply to plants should be balanced to meet individual needs.
The main nutrients required are carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, hydrogen, phosphorous and potassium.
In addition to these, a number of less essential nutrients known as secondary nutrients are used by a plant to optimise its growth.
There are also many micro nutrients used in tiny amounts by specific plant species.
Main nutrients contribute to production of chlorophyll, fruit set and yield, defence against adverse environmental conditions, leaf loss, and certain diseases. They also aid in the healthy growth of roots, leaves and flowers.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Nutrient deficiency
Nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous fertilisers.
Calcium ammonium nitrate
Ammonium nitrate
Urea
Potassium chloride
Potassium sulphate
Calcium carbonate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Incorporating farmyard manure, composted plant material, leaf mould and other natural sources of nutrients will ensure healthy plant growth.
Prevention
Establish a regular feeding programme for all potted and hanging basket plants, and those grown in a greenhouse.
Apply a suitable liquid feed to your garden plants at regular intervals when watering.
Apply a suitable granular feed to your lawn at seasonal intervals as indicated.
Incorporate slow release fertiliser granules into all compost used for potting plants.
Dig sources of plant nutrients such as garden compost or well-rotted manure into flower beds and vegetable patches, or place around the bases of existing plants.
Scarify, top-dress, and aerate lawns at the beginning and end of growing seasons.
Plants affected
All plants can be affected.
About Nutrient deficiency
In order to develop and complete their life-cycle without sustaining damage to new growth, flowers or fruit, plants require nutrients.
To maximise efficiency, nutrient supply to plants should be balanced to meet individual needs.
The main nutrients required are carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, hydrogen, phosphorous and potassium.
In addition to these, a number of less essential nutrients known as secondary nutrients are used by a plant to optimise its growth.
There are also many micro nutrients used in tiny amounts by specific plant species.
Main nutrients contribute to production of chlorophyll, fruit set and yield, defence against adverse environmental conditions, leaf loss, and certain diseases. They also aid in the healthy growth of roots, leaves and flowers.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Nutrient deficiency
Nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous fertilisers.
Calcium ammonium nitrate
Ammonium nitrate
Urea
Potassium chloride
Potassium sulphate
Calcium carbonate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Incorporating farmyard manure, composted plant material, leaf mould and other natural sources of nutrients will ensure healthy plant growth.
Prevention
Establish a regular feeding programme for all potted and hanging basket plants, and those grown in a greenhouse.
Apply a suitable liquid feed to your garden plants at regular intervals when watering.
Apply a suitable granular feed to your lawn at seasonal intervals as indicated.
Incorporate slow release fertiliser granules into all compost used for potting plants.
Dig sources of plant nutrients such as garden compost or well-rotted manure into flower beds and vegetable patches, or place around the bases of existing plants.
Scarify, top-dress, and aerate lawns at the beginning and end of growing seasons.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Wilted, stunted and dehydrated plants which may also be losing leaves. Foliage becomes covered in a sticky honeydew residue which in turn can lead to the development of dark sooty mould. You may be able to spot colonies of mealybugs on the undersides of leaves and in the leaf joints of plants. They're usually pinkish in colour and protect themselves with a layer of white waxy coating. Mealy bugs can also attack the roots of plants, but are much more difficult to identify.
Plants affected
Mealy bugs usually infest greenhouse and houseplants, although the phormium mealy bug, imported on New Zealand flax, will survive on outdoor plants in southern Britain.
About Mealy bugs
Mealy bugs are small, sap-sucking insects that produce large quantities of wax.
Most UK mealy bug species are thought to have originated in the tropics.
Males are winged and relatively few in number. Females are wingless and have flattened, soft, oval-shaped bodies up to 4mm in length. They're pink in colour, but appear white because of the waxy powder that covers their bodies and the long wax filaments that they also secrete.
Development from egg to adult takes about three weeks.
Breeding can continue throughout the year on plants in heated greenhouses and indoors.
Colonies develop on leaves, stems, flowers and fruits of plants, and consist of egg masses, juveniles and adults clustered together and protected within a mass of wax filaments produced by adult mealy bugs.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Mealy bugs
Natural Fatty Acids
Surfactant based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Check susceptible plants every few weeks and deal with the first signs of infestation immediately.
Remove as many mealy bugs as you can by hand or, if possible, cut off infested shoots and stems.
Use natural enemies such as the parasitic wasp Leptomastix dactylopii and predatory beetle Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, which are both commercially available for mealy bug control.
Prevention
Inspect new plants thoroughly and, if possible, quarantine them for a month or so before introducing them to the greenhouse.
Destroy all infested material since mealy bugs are fairly mobile.
Remove dead leaves and prunings from the glasshouse because these may harbour adults or eggs.
Wash vines and citrus trees with a recommended plant wash or surfactant-based product during the early winter when they're dormant.
Plants affected
Mealy bugs usually infest greenhouse and houseplants, although the phormium mealy bug, imported on New Zealand flax, will survive on outdoor plants in southern Britain.
About Mealy bugs
Mealy bugs are small, sap-sucking insects that produce large quantities of wax.
Most UK mealy bug species are thought to have originated in the tropics.
Males are winged and relatively few in number. Females are wingless and have flattened, soft, oval-shaped bodies up to 4mm in length. They're pink in colour, but appear white because of the waxy powder that covers their bodies and the long wax filaments that they also secrete.
Development from egg to adult takes about three weeks.
Breeding can continue throughout the year on plants in heated greenhouses and indoors.
Colonies develop on leaves, stems, flowers and fruits of plants, and consist of egg masses, juveniles and adults clustered together and protected within a mass of wax filaments produced by adult mealy bugs.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Mealy bugs
Natural Fatty Acids
Surfactant based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Check susceptible plants every few weeks and deal with the first signs of infestation immediately.
Remove as many mealy bugs as you can by hand or, if possible, cut off infested shoots and stems.
Use natural enemies such as the parasitic wasp Leptomastix dactylopii and predatory beetle Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, which are both commercially available for mealy bug control.
Prevention
Inspect new plants thoroughly and, if possible, quarantine them for a month or so before introducing them to the greenhouse.
Destroy all infested material since mealy bugs are fairly mobile.
Remove dead leaves and prunings from the glasshouse because these may harbour adults or eggs.
Wash vines and citrus trees with a recommended plant wash or surfactant-based product during the early winter when they're dormant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
These bright red beetles are very distinctive and therefore quite easy to spot on affected plants. Also, look for holes in leaves, stems and flowers, left by the small slimy black larvae.
Plants affected
They're highly destructive to lilies (Lilium), and fritillaries (Fritillaria).
About Scarlet lily beetle
These bright red beetles, with distinctive black legs and antennae, are an invasive species which was first recorded in the UK during the 1940s.
They're also known as red lily beetles and are now commonly found across the south-east of England, and have recently been reported in parts of Scotland, Wales and Ireland.
When disturbed, adults emit a high pitch squeak, perhaps as a warning to other beetles.
Adults overwinter in the soil and emerge in late-March to early April.
Adults will continue to mate and feed from spring until autumn.
After mating, females will lay small groups of bright orange eggs on the underside of leaves.
Larvae hatch a few days later as red or orange-coloured grubs with black heads and three pairs of legs on their upper body.
As they feed, the larvae cover themselves in their own sticky black excrement.
Lily beetle larvae are usually found on the underside of leaves where they feed from the tip and work back to the stem.
Any larvae which survive to become adults will drop to the soil in late autumn to overwinter, and emerge again the next spring.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Scarlet lily beetle
Pyrethrum
Natural fatty acids
Surfactant-based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Inspect plants carefully in early spring and remove any adults and larvae by hand to prevent infestations becoming established.
Use netting and fleece to contain the pests and stop adults moving between plants.
Replant pot-grown lilies and fritillarias using fresh compost in early spring before the overwintering adult beetles emerge from the soil.
There are no biological controls commercially available, although a range of native parasites and predators will feed on both adult and larval stages. So encourage these by establishing a natural balance of wildlife in your garden and avoid using chemicals.
Prevention
Check plants regularly for signs of infestation and deal with them as soon as they appear.
Encourage insect-eating birds by putting up feeders in winter and provide nesting boxes in spring.
Plants affected
They're highly destructive to lilies (Lilium), and fritillaries (Fritillaria).
About Scarlet lily beetle
These bright red beetles, with distinctive black legs and antennae, are an invasive species which was first recorded in the UK during the 1940s.
They're also known as red lily beetles and are now commonly found across the south-east of England, and have recently been reported in parts of Scotland, Wales and Ireland.
When disturbed, adults emit a high pitch squeak, perhaps as a warning to other beetles.
Adults overwinter in the soil and emerge in late-March to early April.
Adults will continue to mate and feed from spring until autumn.
After mating, females will lay small groups of bright orange eggs on the underside of leaves.
Larvae hatch a few days later as red or orange-coloured grubs with black heads and three pairs of legs on their upper body.
As they feed, the larvae cover themselves in their own sticky black excrement.
Lily beetle larvae are usually found on the underside of leaves where they feed from the tip and work back to the stem.
Any larvae which survive to become adults will drop to the soil in late autumn to overwinter, and emerge again the next spring.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Scarlet lily beetle
Pyrethrum
Natural fatty acids
Surfactant-based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Inspect plants carefully in early spring and remove any adults and larvae by hand to prevent infestations becoming established.
Use netting and fleece to contain the pests and stop adults moving between plants.
Replant pot-grown lilies and fritillarias using fresh compost in early spring before the overwintering adult beetles emerge from the soil.
There are no biological controls commercially available, although a range of native parasites and predators will feed on both adult and larval stages. So encourage these by establishing a natural balance of wildlife in your garden and avoid using chemicals.
Prevention
Check plants regularly for signs of infestation and deal with them as soon as they appear.
Encourage insect-eating birds by putting up feeders in winter and provide nesting boxes in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Slugs and snails feed at night and are easy to spot. They leave behind unmistakeable silvery slime trails and decimated young plants, leaves and flower buds. During the day they tend to gravitate to dark, moist areas of the garden and greenhouse, or hide on the undersides of large leaves and under pots.
Plants affected
They feed on a wide range of plants and cause severe damage as they rasp or chew away on leaves, stems, roots, bulbs, tubers, buds, flowers and fruit with their toothed tongue.
About Slugs/Snails
Slugs and snails are collectively known as garden molluscs.
Slugs and snails have many similarities since slugs have actually evolved from snails. Their external shell has been replaced by an internal plate that protects their lungs.
Both are soft-bodied and move using a large muscular foot that slides over a slimy secretion.
They have two pairs of tentacles, the lower for smelling and the upper for seeing.
Noted for elaborate courtship and mating rituals, they can lay up to 500 eggs during adulthood. Snails can often be seen joined together whilst mating.
The field slug, Deroceras reticulatum, this is generally the most damaging slug. It's 3cm to 4cm in length and can be various colours from grey to fawn. It feeds mainly above ground.
The garden slug, Arion hortensis, a dark grey to black slug, up to 4cm long. It feeds above and below ground.
Keeled slugs, Milax spp, there are many different species, all are dark grey, brown or black and up to 10cm long and with a distinct ridge or keel running down the back. They live in soil but also feed above ground.
Common snail, Helix aspersa, these have a grey-brown shell with darker bands. They are often found near walls, in rockeries and in overgrown herbaceous borders. Snails can live for several years, hibernating in clusters, in dry holes in walls and so on.
Round-backed black or brown slugs, Arion ater, these feed on rotting vegetation and therefore don't require controlling.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Slugs/Snails
Metaldehyde
Methiocarb
Copper sulphate
Ferrous phosphate
Aluminium sulphate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Attract slugs and snails by leaving out decaying organic matter, such as lettuce leaves or grapefruit skins. Inspect these after dark then collect and kill molluscs by dropping them into a bucket of salty water.
Use copper rings around the base of susceptible plants - these repel molluscs by generating a small electric current.
Sink shallow dishes (or purpose-built slug and snail traps) filled with beer to soil level. Slugs and snails are attracted to the beer, become intoxicated and drown.
Sprinkle ashes, soot, sharp sand, crushed nut or eggshells around plants to provide a physical barrier that slugs and snails don't like to cross.
You can buy live nematodes, Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, commercially. Drench infested areas with this tiny worm which burrows into the body of the slug and infects it with bacteria which kill it. These nematodes aren't effective against snails.
Grow plants with rough or hairy leaves which are less palatable or use some young plants as sacrificial specimens in order to discourage the slugs and snails from your favourites.
Products containing Ferrous phosphate are acceptable for Organic gardeners as they do not harm other wildlife or contaminate the soil.
Prevention
Cultivate growing areas frequently to expose eggs, young and adults to predators such as birds, frogs and hedgehogs.
Limit the use of organic composts and mulches around plants, because they're particularly attractive to slugs.
Remove objects from growing areas that molluscs can use as daytime refuges, such as logs and large stones.
Encourage natural enemies such as beetles and centipedes by providing overwintering refuges in the autumn.
Check your flower beds, pots and lawns at night using a torch and collect the slugs and snails that will be searching around for food.
Plants affected
They feed on a wide range of plants and cause severe damage as they rasp or chew away on leaves, stems, roots, bulbs, tubers, buds, flowers and fruit with their toothed tongue.
About Slugs/Snails
Slugs and snails are collectively known as garden molluscs.
Slugs and snails have many similarities since slugs have actually evolved from snails. Their external shell has been replaced by an internal plate that protects their lungs.
Both are soft-bodied and move using a large muscular foot that slides over a slimy secretion.
They have two pairs of tentacles, the lower for smelling and the upper for seeing.
Noted for elaborate courtship and mating rituals, they can lay up to 500 eggs during adulthood. Snails can often be seen joined together whilst mating.
The field slug, Deroceras reticulatum, this is generally the most damaging slug. It's 3cm to 4cm in length and can be various colours from grey to fawn. It feeds mainly above ground.
The garden slug, Arion hortensis, a dark grey to black slug, up to 4cm long. It feeds above and below ground.
Keeled slugs, Milax spp, there are many different species, all are dark grey, brown or black and up to 10cm long and with a distinct ridge or keel running down the back. They live in soil but also feed above ground.
Common snail, Helix aspersa, these have a grey-brown shell with darker bands. They are often found near walls, in rockeries and in overgrown herbaceous borders. Snails can live for several years, hibernating in clusters, in dry holes in walls and so on.
Round-backed black or brown slugs, Arion ater, these feed on rotting vegetation and therefore don't require controlling.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Slugs/Snails
Metaldehyde
Methiocarb
Copper sulphate
Ferrous phosphate
Aluminium sulphate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Attract slugs and snails by leaving out decaying organic matter, such as lettuce leaves or grapefruit skins. Inspect these after dark then collect and kill molluscs by dropping them into a bucket of salty water.
Use copper rings around the base of susceptible plants - these repel molluscs by generating a small electric current.
Sink shallow dishes (or purpose-built slug and snail traps) filled with beer to soil level. Slugs and snails are attracted to the beer, become intoxicated and drown.
Sprinkle ashes, soot, sharp sand, crushed nut or eggshells around plants to provide a physical barrier that slugs and snails don't like to cross.
You can buy live nematodes, Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, commercially. Drench infested areas with this tiny worm which burrows into the body of the slug and infects it with bacteria which kill it. These nematodes aren't effective against snails.
Grow plants with rough or hairy leaves which are less palatable or use some young plants as sacrificial specimens in order to discourage the slugs and snails from your favourites.
Products containing Ferrous phosphate are acceptable for Organic gardeners as they do not harm other wildlife or contaminate the soil.
Prevention
Cultivate growing areas frequently to expose eggs, young and adults to predators such as birds, frogs and hedgehogs.
Limit the use of organic composts and mulches around plants, because they're particularly attractive to slugs.
Remove objects from growing areas that molluscs can use as daytime refuges, such as logs and large stones.
Encourage natural enemies such as beetles and centipedes by providing overwintering refuges in the autumn.
Check your flower beds, pots and lawns at night using a torch and collect the slugs and snails that will be searching around for food.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Small black flies around 2mm long run over the soil surface or fly slowly around houseplants, pot plants and borders. Larvae are small translucent worms, up to 1cm long. They are harder to see but can be found in the immediate area under the soil around the roots. When infestations are heavy, there may be shiny silken threads on the top of the soil.
Plants affected
Fungus gnats attack the roots of virtually all houseplants, pot and border plants including vegetables, ornamentals, fruits, fungi and even weeds.
About Black fungus gnats
Fungus gnats are small flies around 2mm long, which are usually black in colour.
They are extremely common pests, usually present around most house and greenhouse plants.
There will be many overlapping generations all year round on indoor plants.
Each female fungus gnat can lay up to two hundred microscopic eggs after mating.
Eggs are laid into soil around the base of the plant, and hatch after five to seven days.
The larvae are no more than 1mm long when they first emerge, but can grow to ten times that before pupating.
The larvae are difficult to see with the naked eye due to their small size and translucent bodies.
They will hide beneath the soil surface where it is moist, and feed mostly on dead organic matter but can damage seedlings and the base of soft cuttings.
Larvae can also survive on patches of mould on greenhouse floors and benches.
At room temperature, newly hatched larvae will develop into adults in 20 to 25 days.
During hotter times of the year in greenhouses, the lifecycle can be as short as one to two weeks.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Black fungus gnats
Pyrethroids and Pyrethrin
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Place sticky traps between and around the base of plants to catch adults.
For indoor plants, the predatory mite Hypoaspis can be applied to the soil. The mites inhabit the just area under the soil surface where fungus gnats pupate.
Water the parasitic nematodes Steinernema feltiae into infested soil. These naturally occurring parasites will infect fungus gnat larvae with bacteria and kill them.
Letting the soil dry out partially may help to reduce the larval population in pots.
Prevention
Practice good plant hygiene by removing any old, dead leaves and fungal growth from the top of pots.
Water plants only when required to prevent the build up of fungal growths.
Cover the surface of pots with sand as a barrier against egg laying females.
Plants affected
Fungus gnats attack the roots of virtually all houseplants, pot and border plants including vegetables, ornamentals, fruits, fungi and even weeds.
About Black fungus gnats
Fungus gnats are small flies around 2mm long, which are usually black in colour.
They are extremely common pests, usually present around most house and greenhouse plants.
There will be many overlapping generations all year round on indoor plants.
Each female fungus gnat can lay up to two hundred microscopic eggs after mating.
Eggs are laid into soil around the base of the plant, and hatch after five to seven days.
The larvae are no more than 1mm long when they first emerge, but can grow to ten times that before pupating.
The larvae are difficult to see with the naked eye due to their small size and translucent bodies.
They will hide beneath the soil surface where it is moist, and feed mostly on dead organic matter but can damage seedlings and the base of soft cuttings.
Larvae can also survive on patches of mould on greenhouse floors and benches.
At room temperature, newly hatched larvae will develop into adults in 20 to 25 days.
During hotter times of the year in greenhouses, the lifecycle can be as short as one to two weeks.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Black fungus gnats
Pyrethroids and Pyrethrin
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Place sticky traps between and around the base of plants to catch adults.
For indoor plants, the predatory mite Hypoaspis can be applied to the soil. The mites inhabit the just area under the soil surface where fungus gnats pupate.
Water the parasitic nematodes Steinernema feltiae into infested soil. These naturally occurring parasites will infect fungus gnat larvae with bacteria and kill them.
Letting the soil dry out partially may help to reduce the larval population in pots.
Prevention
Practice good plant hygiene by removing any old, dead leaves and fungal growth from the top of pots.
Water plants only when required to prevent the build up of fungal growths.
Cover the surface of pots with sand as a barrier against egg laying females.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Leaves, stems, flowers and buds will blacken, shrivel, wilt and possibly die. Fruits can become discoloured, and plants may be covered in a white, shiny frost. Stem and trunk bark may split, and develop cankers as a result of the damage.
Plants affected
Potentially all non-hardy plants.
About
Frost damage can occur anytime between late September to mid May.
Regular freezing and thawing of plants weakens cell walls.
Ice crystals form inside the plant removing water from the cells, or causing them swell and rupture.
Younger, tender plants are generally more susceptible, although hardier plants can be damaged during severe frosts.
Gardens sometimes have areas where cold air collects, commonly called “frost pockets”.
Plants infected with viral diseases are often more susceptible to frost damage.
When soil freezes, young plants may be squeezed out from beneath the surface.
The length of exposure to cold temperatures is often as important and the actual temperature.
Preventing further damage
Covering plants with horticultural fleece will reduce exposure to frost.
Removing any affected plant material will reduce the spread of disease from the damaged areas.
Avoid planting seeds in “frost pockets” in your garden.
Choose hardy plant varieties to grow.
A south facing wall will provide a warmer micro-climate for tender plants.
Plants affected
Potentially all non-hardy plants.
About
Frost damage can occur anytime between late September to mid May.
Regular freezing and thawing of plants weakens cell walls.
Ice crystals form inside the plant removing water from the cells, or causing them swell and rupture.
Younger, tender plants are generally more susceptible, although hardier plants can be damaged during severe frosts.
Gardens sometimes have areas where cold air collects, commonly called “frost pockets”.
Plants infected with viral diseases are often more susceptible to frost damage.
When soil freezes, young plants may be squeezed out from beneath the surface.
The length of exposure to cold temperatures is often as important and the actual temperature.
Preventing further damage
Covering plants with horticultural fleece will reduce exposure to frost.
Removing any affected plant material will reduce the spread of disease from the damaged areas.
Avoid planting seeds in “frost pockets” in your garden.
Choose hardy plant varieties to grow.
A south facing wall will provide a warmer micro-climate for tender plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
When attacks are severe, foliage will be peppered with small holes and pits, and growth may be reduced. The tissue around damaged areas will become dry and discoloured.
Plants affected
Many plants from the Brassica family are attacked, as well as a small number of ornamentals.
About
Adult beetles are up to 3mm long, usually shiny black in colour and may have light coloured stripes down their wing casing.
Larvae are small white coloured grubs with brown heads and pairs of fleshy legs.
Eggs are tiny opaque yellow elliptical forms, and are laid around plant roots.
Adults usually have long, hinged hind legs that enable them to jump like fleas.
Over-wintering takes place as adults, either beneath the soil surface or amongst plant debris around the base of the plant.
Adults re-emerge in early spring to feed and mate.
During dry periods in April/May, feeding can be severe and may result in plants dying. During this time adults can be seen jumping on and around infested plants.
Eggs are laid towards the end of May/ early June, and will hatch a few days later.
The larvae will begin to feed immediately after hatching. Mainly on plant roots, although some larvae feed on leaves.
Pupation occurs in late summer, with second generation adults emerging during autumn.
Treatment
Chemical
Rotenone
Pyrethrins
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Fleeces can be used to protect new seedlings from infestation.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging boxes and feeders.
Use yellow sticky traps to catch adults.
Prevention
Flea beetles prefer dry conditions, so keep plants well watered.
Remove all plant debris from the base of your plants, to reduce over-wintering sites.
Try “trap planting” by growing more susceptible hosts between your primary plants.
Plants affected
Many plants from the Brassica family are attacked, as well as a small number of ornamentals.
About
Adult beetles are up to 3mm long, usually shiny black in colour and may have light coloured stripes down their wing casing.
Larvae are small white coloured grubs with brown heads and pairs of fleshy legs.
Eggs are tiny opaque yellow elliptical forms, and are laid around plant roots.
Adults usually have long, hinged hind legs that enable them to jump like fleas.
Over-wintering takes place as adults, either beneath the soil surface or amongst plant debris around the base of the plant.
Adults re-emerge in early spring to feed and mate.
During dry periods in April/May, feeding can be severe and may result in plants dying. During this time adults can be seen jumping on and around infested plants.
Eggs are laid towards the end of May/ early June, and will hatch a few days later.
The larvae will begin to feed immediately after hatching. Mainly on plant roots, although some larvae feed on leaves.
Pupation occurs in late summer, with second generation adults emerging during autumn.
Treatment
Chemical
Rotenone
Pyrethrins
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Fleeces can be used to protect new seedlings from infestation.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging boxes and feeders.
Use yellow sticky traps to catch adults.
Prevention
Flea beetles prefer dry conditions, so keep plants well watered.
Remove all plant debris from the base of your plants, to reduce over-wintering sites.
Try “trap planting” by growing more susceptible hosts between your primary plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Leaves will become a dark brown colour and drop. Blossoms will die back. Fruits will become discoloured and wrinkled. A white slimy substance may excrete from infected areas. 
Plants affected
Pears, apples, hawthorn, rose
About Fireblight
Fireblight is a disease caused by a bacteria.
It gets its name from the scorched look of infected leaves.
The first recorded outbreak in Britain was in 1957.
In Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man it is a notifiable disease, and any potential or confirmed outbreaks must be reported to DEFRA.
The slime contains the bacteria, which spreads to other plants on insects, birds and other small animals. The bacteria can also be transmitted with garden tools, from water splashes during rainfall or by any other mechanical means.
The infection will spread quickly spread throughout a plant, which may die in only a few months.
Treatment
Chemical
There is currently no chemical control commercially available for fire blight.
Organic
Remove any infected leaves, flowers and branches and burn them.
Sterilise any tools used for removing infected material with a household bleach solution after each cut and always prune or saw into undamaged healthy wood.
Avoid planting more trees from susceptible species.
Plants affected
Pears, apples, hawthorn, rose
About Fireblight
Fireblight is a disease caused by a bacteria.
It gets its name from the scorched look of infected leaves.
The first recorded outbreak in Britain was in 1957.
In Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man it is a notifiable disease, and any potential or confirmed outbreaks must be reported to DEFRA.
The slime contains the bacteria, which spreads to other plants on insects, birds and other small animals. The bacteria can also be transmitted with garden tools, from water splashes during rainfall or by any other mechanical means.
The infection will spread quickly spread throughout a plant, which may die in only a few months.
Treatment
Chemical
There is currently no chemical control commercially available for fire blight.
Organic
Remove any infected leaves, flowers and branches and burn them.
Sterilise any tools used for removing infected material with a household bleach solution after each cut and always prune or saw into undamaged healthy wood.
Avoid planting more trees from susceptible species.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Dead and wilting young plants, softening and decaying of mature plants. Also the larvae are often found within the root tubers and they are 8-10mm long white coloured maggots.
Plants affected
Mainly Onions but other members of the Allium family can also be attacked.
About Onion fly
Adult Onion Flies emerge from pupae that have over-wintered within the soil.
Pupal cases are brown, oval shaped and about 10mm long.
Onion flies have several generations a year, the first generation usually emerges about May/June time.
The first generation of adults to emerge are able to reproduce within a few days and females then lay batches of eggs onto or nearby onion seedlings.
The eggs laid are small, white and elongated, with darker stripes that run longitudinally.
Second and third generations attack the onion sets which will have developed from the seedlings.
The damage is caused not by adult flies but by their grey, legless maggot-like larvae (8mm long) feeding on the onion sets and moving from one to another in the soil.
Adult onion flies are similar in appearance to house flies however they are grey, slightly smaller and have longer legs.
Larvae can often cause secondary damage such as rotting when they bore in and out of the roots.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Cutworms
There are no approved insecticides currently available to amateur gardeners.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regular observation of crops to check for damage or infestation and remove any affected plants immediately and incinerate.
Keep weeds under control that could be alternative host plants e.g. dandelions.
Crop containment e.g. Fleece barrier to stop flying adults, or grow in poly- tunnels.
Avoid planting in soils that have un-rotted organic matter present.
Plant sets instead of seeds and avoid planting in rows if possible to stop maggots moving from plant to plant.
Avoid sowing at peak Onion Fly breeding times.
Prevention
Very efficient checks of the crop for any signs of infestation, any prompt removal of any plants affected, use sticky traps to monitor numbers of adults using white and yellow traps.
Use biological pest control species to control numbers, such as Predatory Flies – Coenosia tigrina, Wasp sp. – Aphaerata pallipes, Beetle sp. – Aleochara bilineata or the Fungus – Entomopthora muscae.
Plants affected
Mainly Onions but other members of the Allium family can also be attacked.
About Onion fly
Adult Onion Flies emerge from pupae that have over-wintered within the soil.
Pupal cases are brown, oval shaped and about 10mm long.
Onion flies have several generations a year, the first generation usually emerges about May/June time.
The first generation of adults to emerge are able to reproduce within a few days and females then lay batches of eggs onto or nearby onion seedlings.
The eggs laid are small, white and elongated, with darker stripes that run longitudinally.
Second and third generations attack the onion sets which will have developed from the seedlings.
The damage is caused not by adult flies but by their grey, legless maggot-like larvae (8mm long) feeding on the onion sets and moving from one to another in the soil.
Adult onion flies are similar in appearance to house flies however they are grey, slightly smaller and have longer legs.
Larvae can often cause secondary damage such as rotting when they bore in and out of the roots.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Cutworms
There are no approved insecticides currently available to amateur gardeners.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regular observation of crops to check for damage or infestation and remove any affected plants immediately and incinerate.
Keep weeds under control that could be alternative host plants e.g. dandelions.
Crop containment e.g. Fleece barrier to stop flying adults, or grow in poly- tunnels.
Avoid planting in soils that have un-rotted organic matter present.
Plant sets instead of seeds and avoid planting in rows if possible to stop maggots moving from plant to plant.
Avoid sowing at peak Onion Fly breeding times.
Prevention
Very efficient checks of the crop for any signs of infestation, any prompt removal of any plants affected, use sticky traps to monitor numbers of adults using white and yellow traps.
Use biological pest control species to control numbers, such as Predatory Flies – Coenosia tigrina, Wasp sp. – Aphaerata pallipes, Beetle sp. – Aleochara bilineata or the Fungus – Entomopthora muscae.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Stems will be damaged at the base and may be completely severed. Plants will wilt and may die. There may also be damage to leaves, roots and tubers.
Plants affected
Many garden fruit, vegetable, and ornamental plants are affected.
About Cutworms
Cutworms are the larvae of certain species of nocturnal moths.
They are widespread throughout the UK.
In June and July the moths lay eggs in batches of 30-50 on leaves and stems. The eggs hatch two weeks later.
Larvae range from dull grey or brown in colour to green or white. They can reach 2-4cm in length when fully grown.
Larvae can be found feeding at night on the soil surface.
They cause severe damage by chewing the base of stems, roots, leaves and tubers.
After one to two months of feeding they pupate in the soil.
A second generation hatches in August and September.
Second generation larvae will over-winter in the soil, coming to the surface to feed when environmental conditions are favourable.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Cutworms
There are no approved insecticides currently available to amateur gardeners.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regularly cultivate soil in winter to expose over-wintering larvae to predators.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging bird boxes and feeders.
In greenhouses drench potted plants to bring larvae to the surface, then pick them off by hand.
Prevention
Use pheromone traps to monitor the presence of moths during June and July.
Avoid planting in known areas of infestation.
Keep gardens free from weeds and plant debris as they can be used for egg laying.
Plants affected
Many garden fruit, vegetable, and ornamental plants are affected.
About Cutworms
Cutworms are the larvae of certain species of nocturnal moths.
They are widespread throughout the UK.
In June and July the moths lay eggs in batches of 30-50 on leaves and stems. The eggs hatch two weeks later.
Larvae range from dull grey or brown in colour to green or white. They can reach 2-4cm in length when fully grown.
Larvae can be found feeding at night on the soil surface.
They cause severe damage by chewing the base of stems, roots, leaves and tubers.
After one to two months of feeding they pupate in the soil.
A second generation hatches in August and September.
Second generation larvae will over-winter in the soil, coming to the surface to feed when environmental conditions are favourable.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Cutworms
There are no approved insecticides currently available to amateur gardeners.
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regularly cultivate soil in winter to expose over-wintering larvae to predators.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging bird boxes and feeders.
In greenhouses drench potted plants to bring larvae to the surface, then pick them off by hand.
Prevention
Use pheromone traps to monitor the presence of moths during June and July.
Avoid planting in known areas of infestation.
Keep gardens free from weeds and plant debris as they can be used for egg laying.
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