文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Even though petite, glass-enclosed gardens are fashionable, succulents don’t grow well in terrariums. Terrariums can become too humid for succulents. When these plants are exposed to too much moisture, they can become mushy and die. Below are some tips for making the most of a terrarium garden.
Choose a terrarium with ample circulation and plenty of drainage. Your plants won’t thrive if they’re soggy. Don’t overcrowd the area. Less is more when it comes to growing succulents in terrariums. The roots of the succulents should be completely covered by the soil. You won’t have to water the plants often. When you do, spray the dirt with a mister. Tiny versions of succulents look great next to miniature accessories.
Kids love to plant, arrange and care for fairy gardens. You won’t have to worry about them damaging these sturdy plants. Make sure that choose soft plants that won’t pinch or poke the children.
Choose a terrarium with ample circulation and plenty of drainage. Your plants won’t thrive if they’re soggy. Don’t overcrowd the area. Less is more when it comes to growing succulents in terrariums. The roots of the succulents should be completely covered by the soil. You won’t have to water the plants often. When you do, spray the dirt with a mister. Tiny versions of succulents look great next to miniature accessories.
Kids love to plant, arrange and care for fairy gardens. You won’t have to worry about them damaging these sturdy plants. Make sure that choose soft plants that won’t pinch or poke the children.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Some succulents are better suited for the indoors. Some people prefer those with soft leaves for houseplants. Plants with spiny thorns can hurt if you brush against them. You may also want mini succulents for your indoor houseplants. Below are some of the most popular types of indoor succulents.
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata): Chances are you’ve seen a Jade Plant before. Some say that this plant symbolizes wealth. The leaves are oval-shaped and extremely plump. They’re thick, glossy and attractive. The leaves usually stay green. However, they may turn slightly red. Finger Jade has thick, juicy stems, but the leaves don’t form ovals. Instead, they look like stubby fingers. This type of plant has been nicknamed “Hobbit Jade” or “ET’s Fingers.” Jade Plants don’t like a lot of water. They become top heavy and can fall over if they don’t get the right nutrients. Keep the soil dry, and prune them as necessary so that their stems don’t break under their own weight.
Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum): This plant’s stems trail downward. Therefore, plant it in a tall container or hanging basket. The thick, round leaves have a neutral grayish-green color. The stems to which the leaves connect can grow up to two feet long. You’ll need plenty of space in which to grow this plant. The leaves can fall off if they’re disturbed. You’ll also need plenty of sunlight. However, if you choose to move it outdoors in warmer weather, make sure that it can handle the sun and the temperature before committing.
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) The Zebra Plant is perfect for people who don’t have a lot of space or don’t have an ideal indoor spot for a houseplant. This succulent has a small footprint and grows upward with long, triangular leaves. Each leaf is ringed with several white bands that make it resemble a zebra. You can plant it in a shallow container. Keep it in indirect light. Too much sunlight will cause it to wither.
Aloe Vera is a common houseplant that looks great and has health benefits for humans. This plant can take a long time to grow and mature. If you’re using it for the healing benefits of the gel that’s found inside the leaves, you might want to grow several plants at once. It does create offsets. You can re-pot the offsets to cultivate more plants.
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata): Chances are you’ve seen a Jade Plant before. Some say that this plant symbolizes wealth. The leaves are oval-shaped and extremely plump. They’re thick, glossy and attractive. The leaves usually stay green. However, they may turn slightly red. Finger Jade has thick, juicy stems, but the leaves don’t form ovals. Instead, they look like stubby fingers. This type of plant has been nicknamed “Hobbit Jade” or “ET’s Fingers.” Jade Plants don’t like a lot of water. They become top heavy and can fall over if they don’t get the right nutrients. Keep the soil dry, and prune them as necessary so that their stems don’t break under their own weight.
Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum): This plant’s stems trail downward. Therefore, plant it in a tall container or hanging basket. The thick, round leaves have a neutral grayish-green color. The stems to which the leaves connect can grow up to two feet long. You’ll need plenty of space in which to grow this plant. The leaves can fall off if they’re disturbed. You’ll also need plenty of sunlight. However, if you choose to move it outdoors in warmer weather, make sure that it can handle the sun and the temperature before committing.
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) The Zebra Plant is perfect for people who don’t have a lot of space or don’t have an ideal indoor spot for a houseplant. This succulent has a small footprint and grows upward with long, triangular leaves. Each leaf is ringed with several white bands that make it resemble a zebra. You can plant it in a shallow container. Keep it in indirect light. Too much sunlight will cause it to wither.
Aloe Vera is a common houseplant that looks great and has health benefits for humans. This plant can take a long time to grow and mature. If you’re using it for the healing benefits of the gel that’s found inside the leaves, you might want to grow several plants at once. It does create offsets. You can re-pot the offsets to cultivate more plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
If you’ve been anywhere near Pinterest, a hobby shop or a home improvement store lately, you have probably noticed that succulents have been quite trendy for a while. These versatile plants are incredibly easy to care for. They make for stylish decor indoors and out. We’re spelling out everything you need to know about them.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are plants that store water. One of the succulents with which people are most familiar is the cactus. However, many families of plants have succulents within them. These types of plants are typically found in hot climates with low levels of precipitation. Succulents have plump areas in their leaves. These parts retain water in dry climates, allowing the plant to access moisture even when there is a lack of rainfall. Succulents can thrive even on the slightest mist.
Growing succulents has become a fashionable hobby. People trade them and talk about them endlessly in online forums. You can plant them inside the home or in an outdoor garden. Some say that they thrive on neglect. You don’t even need to plant them in soil. While succulents can grow in a container or garden, they can also grow in cracks in stones and sand. Although they’re relatively easy to grow and care for, succulents don’t like extreme cold. They also may deteriorate in wet conditions. However, they can tolerate more sun and heat than other plants. They can also endure some cold and rain.
Different Varieties
Although many people think that succulents are simply cacti, succulents are found in 60 different families of plants. Most of them belong to the following families:
Aizoaceae: Most of the plants in this family are native to Africa. However, some are found in Australia and the Pacific. Some are referred to Stone Plants or Ice Plants. The leaves of Tetragonia tetragonioides are sometimes used as an alternative to spinach in salads.
Asparagaceae: The Agave, Yucca fall into this category.
Cactaceae: The cactus is a member of this plant family. Almost all cacti are native to the Americas. Most cacti have ribbed exteriors that let the plant expand during periods of heavier watering.
Crassulaceae: This family may be the most frost-hardy variety. They add an exotic touch to any indoor or outdoor garden.
They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors. Some succulents have sharp spines on their leaves. However, others are soft and smooth or even faintly hairy.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are plants that store water. One of the succulents with which people are most familiar is the cactus. However, many families of plants have succulents within them. These types of plants are typically found in hot climates with low levels of precipitation. Succulents have plump areas in their leaves. These parts retain water in dry climates, allowing the plant to access moisture even when there is a lack of rainfall. Succulents can thrive even on the slightest mist.
Growing succulents has become a fashionable hobby. People trade them and talk about them endlessly in online forums. You can plant them inside the home or in an outdoor garden. Some say that they thrive on neglect. You don’t even need to plant them in soil. While succulents can grow in a container or garden, they can also grow in cracks in stones and sand. Although they’re relatively easy to grow and care for, succulents don’t like extreme cold. They also may deteriorate in wet conditions. However, they can tolerate more sun and heat than other plants. They can also endure some cold and rain.
Different Varieties
Although many people think that succulents are simply cacti, succulents are found in 60 different families of plants. Most of them belong to the following families:
Aizoaceae: Most of the plants in this family are native to Africa. However, some are found in Australia and the Pacific. Some are referred to Stone Plants or Ice Plants. The leaves of Tetragonia tetragonioides are sometimes used as an alternative to spinach in salads.
Asparagaceae: The Agave, Yucca fall into this category.
Cactaceae: The cactus is a member of this plant family. Almost all cacti are native to the Americas. Most cacti have ribbed exteriors that let the plant expand during periods of heavier watering.
Crassulaceae: This family may be the most frost-hardy variety. They add an exotic touch to any indoor or outdoor garden.
They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors. Some succulents have sharp spines on their leaves. However, others are soft and smooth or even faintly hairy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Maihuenia is a genus largely accepted as containing two species which are quite distinct from other cactus. The plants in this genus are so different that they have been classified as the sole genus in the subfamily Maihuenioideae.
These plants grow as mats which hug the ground and are made up of segmented short-rounded stems. The stems feature typically 3 spines per areole and also have small rounded leaves which do not fall off as they do in Opuntias. The flowers come from the ends of the stems and are shades of yellow from near-white to orange. Club-shaped fruits are fleshy and contain bracts.
The natural habitat of this species is in the region known as Patagonia in the southern parts of Argentina and Chile at elevations of 8,000 feet (2450 m) elevation. In this harsh environment, these cacti commonly endure frost and are starting to become sought by cold-hardy cactus growers in North America.
Growing Condition and General Care
Maihuenia is an easy-to-grow plant. It can survive outside in the garden in the sunny rockery on a sheltered place, but only if it’s protected with a sheet of glass during the wintertime. It is also very good for a large pot which can be stored inside an unheated greenhouse or on a balcony, somewhat protected from moisture during the winter, but is probably safest to grow it in the Alpine House or in a raised bed inside an unheated greenhouse all year around, with lots of ventilation. They should not be kept hot in summer as they are from high elevations.
During the growing season it’s good to enrich the soil using a fertilizer rich in potassium and phosphorous, but poor in nitrogen.
For a balanced development, it is best to place it in a position where it is exposed at least a few hours of direct sunlight.
Water these plants only from time to time if grown outdoors, but it should be watered abundantly if grown in a pot or in the greenhouse, during the summer.
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours, and pretty frequent rains, can favor the development of fungus diseases, which should be treated with a systemic fungicide. Repot it every 2 to 3 years.
These plants grow as mats which hug the ground and are made up of segmented short-rounded stems. The stems feature typically 3 spines per areole and also have small rounded leaves which do not fall off as they do in Opuntias. The flowers come from the ends of the stems and are shades of yellow from near-white to orange. Club-shaped fruits are fleshy and contain bracts.
The natural habitat of this species is in the region known as Patagonia in the southern parts of Argentina and Chile at elevations of 8,000 feet (2450 m) elevation. In this harsh environment, these cacti commonly endure frost and are starting to become sought by cold-hardy cactus growers in North America.
Growing Condition and General Care
Maihuenia is an easy-to-grow plant. It can survive outside in the garden in the sunny rockery on a sheltered place, but only if it’s protected with a sheet of glass during the wintertime. It is also very good for a large pot which can be stored inside an unheated greenhouse or on a balcony, somewhat protected from moisture during the winter, but is probably safest to grow it in the Alpine House or in a raised bed inside an unheated greenhouse all year around, with lots of ventilation. They should not be kept hot in summer as they are from high elevations.
During the growing season it’s good to enrich the soil using a fertilizer rich in potassium and phosphorous, but poor in nitrogen.
For a balanced development, it is best to place it in a position where it is exposed at least a few hours of direct sunlight.
Water these plants only from time to time if grown outdoors, but it should be watered abundantly if grown in a pot or in the greenhouse, during the summer.
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours, and pretty frequent rains, can favor the development of fungus diseases, which should be treated with a systemic fungicide. Repot it every 2 to 3 years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
You can find succulents in just about every garden center, big box store and even the grocery store now. While these plants are relatively easy to care for, there are times when your plants may not look very healthy. Even if you have the greenest of “green thumbs” (or not) here are a few tips to help keep your succulents healthy.
1. You are Giving Them Too Much Water
Succulents don’t need to be watered like your common or typical houseplant. Well drained soil is a must…water when the soil is dry. Give your plant a thorough soaking and let the excess water drain out.
2. The Planting Container is Too Small
Did you find a cute tea cup or flower pot for your succulent? Sure it looks cute, but does it give the roots the room it needs to grow? Probably not. The depth of the container should be twice as deep as the roots of the plant, while the width should be at least three times as wide. This gives the plant plenty of room to spread out!
3. The Planting Container Doesn’t Provide Drainage
People love panting succulents in cute containers, but the truth is if they don’t have proper drainage they will never work. Your container should have several drainage holes where water can escape. A piece of net over the holes can help dirt from escaping in the process.
4. They aren’t Getting Enough Light
Succulents love warm weather and plenty of light. Not every succulent needs to be in direct sunlight all day long, be sure to know the exact light requirements of your plants. Shade is NOT good for succulents, they will loose their color and will get “leggy” stretching for the light.
5. Your Soil Isn’t Nutrient Rich
Succulents love nutrient rich soil. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering.
6. You Need to Transplant Them
If your succulent has been in a container for several months and seems to be thriving, you need to repot it into a larger container. By doing so you will give it more room to grow and it won’t get cramped and smothered by its own roots.
Are you ready to enjoy more healthy, vibrant, and ALIVE succulents? Give these 6 reasons your succulents are dying your consideration, make the changes needed, and enjoy the succulents you have always dreamed of.
1. You are Giving Them Too Much Water
Succulents don’t need to be watered like your common or typical houseplant. Well drained soil is a must…water when the soil is dry. Give your plant a thorough soaking and let the excess water drain out.
2. The Planting Container is Too Small
Did you find a cute tea cup or flower pot for your succulent? Sure it looks cute, but does it give the roots the room it needs to grow? Probably not. The depth of the container should be twice as deep as the roots of the plant, while the width should be at least three times as wide. This gives the plant plenty of room to spread out!
3. The Planting Container Doesn’t Provide Drainage
People love panting succulents in cute containers, but the truth is if they don’t have proper drainage they will never work. Your container should have several drainage holes where water can escape. A piece of net over the holes can help dirt from escaping in the process.
4. They aren’t Getting Enough Light
Succulents love warm weather and plenty of light. Not every succulent needs to be in direct sunlight all day long, be sure to know the exact light requirements of your plants. Shade is NOT good for succulents, they will loose their color and will get “leggy” stretching for the light.
5. Your Soil Isn’t Nutrient Rich
Succulents love nutrient rich soil. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering.
6. You Need to Transplant Them
If your succulent has been in a container for several months and seems to be thriving, you need to repot it into a larger container. By doing so you will give it more room to grow and it won’t get cramped and smothered by its own roots.
Are you ready to enjoy more healthy, vibrant, and ALIVE succulents? Give these 6 reasons your succulents are dying your consideration, make the changes needed, and enjoy the succulents you have always dreamed of.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Dodder is an annual seed-bearing parasitic vine in the dodder family (formerly placed in the morning-glory family). Its thin, thread-like, yellow or orange stems grow rapidly entwining and covering their host plants. Cuscate is the most common genus and is found throughout the US and Canada. Of the 50 species that occur, most are found in tropical and warm-temperate areas but some species also occur in cooler areas including St. Louis where they can grow from seed each year and infest herbaceous and small woody plants. Since seeds can be difficult to separate from some agricultural crops dodder has been spread widely through agriculture.
Life Cycle
Dodder seeds germinate in soil and can live on their own for 5 to 10 days until they are about a foot tall. If they have not found a suitable host by this time the seedlings will die. Seedlings that find a suitable host twine around the plant and insert haustoria (modified adventitious roots) into the tender stem. The haustoria penetrate and tap the plant's vascular system for water, minerals and nutrients. Plants are weakly photosynthetic, but most produce very little food on their own. They rely upon their host plant for survival. As the vine taps the host plant its connection to the soil is severed. Small, white, bell-shaped flowers form in late summer and early fall and can produce copious amounts of seed. Plants are annual and are killed by frost. Plants regrow from seed each year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove the plants. As soon as the thin vining stems of dodder are observed they should be gathered and removed before seed is set. Removal of the host plant is usually recommended. Complete eradication from the host plant is usually not possible.
2. Scout for and remove new seedlings as they appear. Monitor areas previously infested with dodder closely and pull young seedling before they attach themselves to new plants and certainly before they set seed. Seeds can survive in the soil for more than 20 years.
3. Treat with an herbicide. Dodder and the host plant can be killed by treating with glyphosate, a non-selective herbicide. As a follow-up measure to kill germinating seeds, treat soil with a preemergent herbicide such as Dacthal before seeds germinate in spring.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1 and 2 are strictly organic approaches.
Life Cycle
Dodder seeds germinate in soil and can live on their own for 5 to 10 days until they are about a foot tall. If they have not found a suitable host by this time the seedlings will die. Seedlings that find a suitable host twine around the plant and insert haustoria (modified adventitious roots) into the tender stem. The haustoria penetrate and tap the plant's vascular system for water, minerals and nutrients. Plants are weakly photosynthetic, but most produce very little food on their own. They rely upon their host plant for survival. As the vine taps the host plant its connection to the soil is severed. Small, white, bell-shaped flowers form in late summer and early fall and can produce copious amounts of seed. Plants are annual and are killed by frost. Plants regrow from seed each year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove the plants. As soon as the thin vining stems of dodder are observed they should be gathered and removed before seed is set. Removal of the host plant is usually recommended. Complete eradication from the host plant is usually not possible.
2. Scout for and remove new seedlings as they appear. Monitor areas previously infested with dodder closely and pull young seedling before they attach themselves to new plants and certainly before they set seed. Seeds can survive in the soil for more than 20 years.
3. Treat with an herbicide. Dodder and the host plant can be killed by treating with glyphosate, a non-selective herbicide. As a follow-up measure to kill germinating seeds, treat soil with a preemergent herbicide such as Dacthal before seeds germinate in spring.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1 and 2 are strictly organic approaches.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Mosses are small, primitive plants that have reduced leaves and a mass of fine, thread-like stems. A mild, wet winter combined with turfgrass which is thin and weak offers an opportunity for moss and/or algae growth.
Mosses are not parasitic on turfgrass. They produce their own food, grow where grass will not, and form a soft mat of growth, which makes a barrier, preventing grass from growing.
Shady conditions and infertile and/or compacted, poorly drained soil encourage moss growth.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Moss in the lawn is quite visible and can be annoying. Large areas void of grass may be covered by moss. These small primitive plants have reduced leaves and reproduce by spores, not seeds.
Life Cycle
Moss prefers to grow and become established in the winter with growth peaking in early, wet springs. If grass is established in the fall, moss will fail to compete for space in which to grow. This presents the best strategy for avoiding moss development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Cultural practices to inhibit moss growth and stimulate growth of desirable healthy lawn grass.
A. Test soil for pH and nutrient content. If deficient in nutrients, follow recommendations of soil test. Fertilize with nitrogen just before the growth cycle.
B. Improve drainage. In moist areas with poor drainage, add soil or contour the area to move water away from low lying areas.
C. Increase light penetration. Trim lower branches of shade trees and thin to improve light penetration to the soil surface and improve air circulation. A ground cover may be used in lieu of grass if shade is too intense.
D. Loosen compacted soils. Compacted soil should be tilled or core aerated to reduce compaction. Loosening the top 2 to 4 inches of soil will help. Cultivation breaks up the algae crust or moss mats.
2. Manual removal. Remove as much of the moss as possible by raking or dethatching.
3. Treatment.Treat the mossy areas with iron compounds; liquid ferric sulfate is the most effective. Fertilizers with iron compounds also work if very fine, near-dust formulations are used. Moss killers containing zinc sulfate will kill the moss but can also damage grass. Buy only products which state "for controlling moss in lawns" as some are for removal of moss in sidewalks and roofs and can be harmful to other plants. Lime and copper sulfate are ineffective in killing moss.
4. Turf selection. In shaded, well-drained soil, plant fine fescues. For shaded, moist areas, plant rough bluegrass. Neither grass, however, will survive extremely heavy shade or soil saturated for long periods.
5. Watering. Keep grass in good condition in the summer by watering deeply to establish deep roots. If an automatic watering system is used, water plentifully once or twice a week (1 inch per watering).
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1.B, 1.C, 1.D, 2, 4, and 5 are strictly organic approaches. Strategy 1.A could be considered an organic approach if an organic fertilizer is used.
Mosses are not parasitic on turfgrass. They produce their own food, grow where grass will not, and form a soft mat of growth, which makes a barrier, preventing grass from growing.
Shady conditions and infertile and/or compacted, poorly drained soil encourage moss growth.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Moss in the lawn is quite visible and can be annoying. Large areas void of grass may be covered by moss. These small primitive plants have reduced leaves and reproduce by spores, not seeds.
Life Cycle
Moss prefers to grow and become established in the winter with growth peaking in early, wet springs. If grass is established in the fall, moss will fail to compete for space in which to grow. This presents the best strategy for avoiding moss development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Cultural practices to inhibit moss growth and stimulate growth of desirable healthy lawn grass.
A. Test soil for pH and nutrient content. If deficient in nutrients, follow recommendations of soil test. Fertilize with nitrogen just before the growth cycle.
B. Improve drainage. In moist areas with poor drainage, add soil or contour the area to move water away from low lying areas.
C. Increase light penetration. Trim lower branches of shade trees and thin to improve light penetration to the soil surface and improve air circulation. A ground cover may be used in lieu of grass if shade is too intense.
D. Loosen compacted soils. Compacted soil should be tilled or core aerated to reduce compaction. Loosening the top 2 to 4 inches of soil will help. Cultivation breaks up the algae crust or moss mats.
2. Manual removal. Remove as much of the moss as possible by raking or dethatching.
3. Treatment.Treat the mossy areas with iron compounds; liquid ferric sulfate is the most effective. Fertilizers with iron compounds also work if very fine, near-dust formulations are used. Moss killers containing zinc sulfate will kill the moss but can also damage grass. Buy only products which state "for controlling moss in lawns" as some are for removal of moss in sidewalks and roofs and can be harmful to other plants. Lime and copper sulfate are ineffective in killing moss.
4. Turf selection. In shaded, well-drained soil, plant fine fescues. For shaded, moist areas, plant rough bluegrass. Neither grass, however, will survive extremely heavy shade or soil saturated for long periods.
5. Watering. Keep grass in good condition in the summer by watering deeply to establish deep roots. If an automatic watering system is used, water plentifully once or twice a week (1 inch per watering).
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1.B, 1.C, 1.D, 2, 4, and 5 are strictly organic approaches. Strategy 1.A could be considered an organic approach if an organic fertilizer is used.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
There are nearly 5,000 different species of rust of which about 10 may be important pathogens on turfgrass. They attack only live grass plants, and two or more rusts may attack the same grass plant at the same time. Different races of the pathogens occur and they differ in their ability to attack cultivars (varieties) within a grass genus or species. This is one of the reasons that some grass cultivars lose their rust resistance after being grown for a period of years.
Rusts in the genus Pucciniaoccur on all commonly grown warm- and cool-season turfgrasses, and a few are responsible for significant stand losses. Among warm-season turfgrasses, zoysiagrass lawns are often the target of severe rust damage, while bermudagrass, St. Augustine grass, and centipede grass lawns are far less likely to suffer serious injury. Perennial ryegrass is the most susceptible of commonly grown cool-season turfgrasses, but the disease is rare on tall fescue and bentgrass. With few exceptions, the host range of rust fungi is limited to a few turfgrasses.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Diseased plants initially develop light yellow flecks on the leaves. As the spots enlarge, the surfaces of the leaves rupture, exposing masses of powdery, brick red spores. Continuous heavy infection causes many grass blades to turn yellow, wither, and die. A severely rusted lawn may winterkill. From a distance, rust-infected turf appears dull yellow or light brown. Individual plants may die and the turf becomes noticeably thin. The disease tends to be more severe in partially shaded areas, such as under trees or along fences.
Life Cycle
The cycle of development for the rust fungus is very complex because of the many species involved and the numerous alternate hosts, mostly woody shrubs and herbaceous ornamentals. Alternate hosts are not believed to play an important role in the disease development of the fungi that attack turf grasses.
The rust fungi may overwinter in infected plants or be reintroduced into lawns each summer by windblown spores. Each spore must come in contact with a water droplet on the leaf or stem surface to germinate and infect the plant. Infection of leaf blades is favored by moderate temperatures (68 degrees to 85 degrees F) and extended wet periods. This cycle is repeated about every two weeks under conditions favorable for rust development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Fertilizer. Use a balanced fertilizer at recommended levels, according to a soil test. Low nitrogen levels and nutrient imbalance can encourage rust.
2. Mowing. Mow regularly to remove infected leaf blades before the spores are produced. Avoid mowing lower that the recommended height, as this can lead to stunted root systems and decrease the ability of the turf to withstand drought.
3. Watering. Water early in the day to allow the leaves to dry before night. Avoid water stress by irrigating during dry periods.
4. Cultivars. Select resistant cultivars. Before seeding, consider recommended cultivars that are resistant to rusts.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 2, 3 and 4 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic fertilizer would be a viable organic approach to Strategy 1.
Rusts in the genus Pucciniaoccur on all commonly grown warm- and cool-season turfgrasses, and a few are responsible for significant stand losses. Among warm-season turfgrasses, zoysiagrass lawns are often the target of severe rust damage, while bermudagrass, St. Augustine grass, and centipede grass lawns are far less likely to suffer serious injury. Perennial ryegrass is the most susceptible of commonly grown cool-season turfgrasses, but the disease is rare on tall fescue and bentgrass. With few exceptions, the host range of rust fungi is limited to a few turfgrasses.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Diseased plants initially develop light yellow flecks on the leaves. As the spots enlarge, the surfaces of the leaves rupture, exposing masses of powdery, brick red spores. Continuous heavy infection causes many grass blades to turn yellow, wither, and die. A severely rusted lawn may winterkill. From a distance, rust-infected turf appears dull yellow or light brown. Individual plants may die and the turf becomes noticeably thin. The disease tends to be more severe in partially shaded areas, such as under trees or along fences.
Life Cycle
The cycle of development for the rust fungus is very complex because of the many species involved and the numerous alternate hosts, mostly woody shrubs and herbaceous ornamentals. Alternate hosts are not believed to play an important role in the disease development of the fungi that attack turf grasses.
The rust fungi may overwinter in infected plants or be reintroduced into lawns each summer by windblown spores. Each spore must come in contact with a water droplet on the leaf or stem surface to germinate and infect the plant. Infection of leaf blades is favored by moderate temperatures (68 degrees to 85 degrees F) and extended wet periods. This cycle is repeated about every two weeks under conditions favorable for rust development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Fertilizer. Use a balanced fertilizer at recommended levels, according to a soil test. Low nitrogen levels and nutrient imbalance can encourage rust.
2. Mowing. Mow regularly to remove infected leaf blades before the spores are produced. Avoid mowing lower that the recommended height, as this can lead to stunted root systems and decrease the ability of the turf to withstand drought.
3. Watering. Water early in the day to allow the leaves to dry before night. Avoid water stress by irrigating during dry periods.
4. Cultivars. Select resistant cultivars. Before seeding, consider recommended cultivars that are resistant to rusts.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 2, 3 and 4 are strictly organic approaches. Using an appropriate organic fertilizer would be a viable organic approach to Strategy 1.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Thrips are small (1/5th inch), fringe-winged, pale-colored insects. Normally, they are responsible for negligible problems on houseplants, but plants in the Gesneriaceae family (African violet) and Commelinaceae family (Wandering Jew) are prone to attack.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Thrips are rarely seen because of their small size. The insects feed by puncturing the surface of the plant parts with their single large mandible and slurping the plant juices that seep from the wound. Flowers or leaves may develop silvery streaks. Heavily infested leaves appear brownish or silvery, and growing points may become contorted. Some species of thrips leave sooty spots of black fecal matter on the leaves. Thrips also vector plant diseases. Light blue cards coated with a thin film of oil suspended within two feet above indoor plants can be used as indicator traps. Winged adults caught on the card indicate the presence of thrips.
Life Cycle
Female thrips lay their eggs in tiny slits cut into the surface of leaves, flowers, and stems. The eggs can be laid any time of year and hatch within a few days in warm, indoor conditions. The young, called nymphs, are cream to pale green and only visible with magnification. They feed for 7–14 days. Fullgrown nymphs, in most species, drop off the plant to the soil where they burrow down and pupate. Winged adults emerge to complete the cycle.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Keep plants moist. Plants that are kept too dry are more likely to be damaged by thrips. To limit damage or reduce future damage after other initial control measures are used, keep plants moist and increase humidity.
2. Insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps, which are considered nontoxic to humans and pets, give good control. Be sure that flowers and growing tips are well covered with the spray. Frequent sprays may be needed until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior horticultural oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or horticultural oils will also control thrips. The oil suffocates the insects. These oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to some plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Sprays containing pyrethrins, a plant-derived insecticide, are effective and more benign than other chemical pesticides. Follow label directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Thrips are rarely seen because of their small size. The insects feed by puncturing the surface of the plant parts with their single large mandible and slurping the plant juices that seep from the wound. Flowers or leaves may develop silvery streaks. Heavily infested leaves appear brownish or silvery, and growing points may become contorted. Some species of thrips leave sooty spots of black fecal matter on the leaves. Thrips also vector plant diseases. Light blue cards coated with a thin film of oil suspended within two feet above indoor plants can be used as indicator traps. Winged adults caught on the card indicate the presence of thrips.
Life Cycle
Female thrips lay their eggs in tiny slits cut into the surface of leaves, flowers, and stems. The eggs can be laid any time of year and hatch within a few days in warm, indoor conditions. The young, called nymphs, are cream to pale green and only visible with magnification. They feed for 7–14 days. Fullgrown nymphs, in most species, drop off the plant to the soil where they burrow down and pupate. Winged adults emerge to complete the cycle.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Keep plants moist. Plants that are kept too dry are more likely to be damaged by thrips. To limit damage or reduce future damage after other initial control measures are used, keep plants moist and increase humidity.
2. Insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps, which are considered nontoxic to humans and pets, give good control. Be sure that flowers and growing tips are well covered with the spray. Frequent sprays may be needed until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior horticultural oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or horticultural oils will also control thrips. The oil suffocates the insects. These oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to some plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Sprays containing pyrethrins, a plant-derived insecticide, are effective and more benign than other chemical pesticides. Follow label directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Scale insects are small, piercing-sucking insects that often go unnoticed on indoor plants. The adult forms can be attached to leaves, petioles, and stems. They suck plant juices and can cause plants to lose vigor.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Since the insects are often overlooked, the first signs may be yellowing or wilting leaves that may eventually drop. Leaves may also be covered with a clear sticky substance called honeydew. Honeydew is the insects’ excrement consisting of partially digested sap and may coat the floor and other objects beneath the plant as it spatters down from above. A sticky floor beneath a susceptible plant is a telltale sign that infestation is underway. Under humid conditions, a black mold, called sooty mold, may grow on the honeydew making the leaves look dirty. Closer inspection will reveal small cottony or dome-shaped shells attached to stems and leaves. When pried off with a knifepoint, they may be hollow underneath or house adults and/or eggs. Scale can be differentiated from parts of the plant by scraping. If the structure is green when scraped or cannot be pried off, it is more than likely part of the plant.
Life Cycle
Scale insects have a simple life cycle of egg, nymph (crawler), and adult. Indoors, eggs can be laid any time under the protective shell. The eggs hatch and the crawlers seek out new feeding sites. This crawler stage is when scale is easiest to control. When the crawlers settle, they insert their mouth parts into the plant and begin feeding on the plant's sap. The protective shell develops soon after feeding begins and the insect loses use of its legs. Indoor scales can go through many generations a year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove insects by hand. If caught early, scale insects can be rubbed off by hand, with a discarded toothbrush, or with a cotton swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Prune out heavily infested portions of the plant.
2. Use insecticidal soap. Monitor plants frequently. When crawlers are noticed, use insecticidal soaps that are formulated to kill insects and not damage plants. Frequent sprays may be needed until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior horticultural oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or ultra-refined horticultural oils are effective in controlling both adults and scale crawlers. The oil suffocates the insects. Unlike dormant oils, these oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to certain plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Sprays containing pyrethrins, a plant-derived insecticide, are effective and more benign than other chemical pesticides. Follow label directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors. Infested houseplants summered outdoors frequently benefit from the many natural enemies of scale. Be sure to check plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors in fall to be sure they are pest-free.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Since the insects are often overlooked, the first signs may be yellowing or wilting leaves that may eventually drop. Leaves may also be covered with a clear sticky substance called honeydew. Honeydew is the insects’ excrement consisting of partially digested sap and may coat the floor and other objects beneath the plant as it spatters down from above. A sticky floor beneath a susceptible plant is a telltale sign that infestation is underway. Under humid conditions, a black mold, called sooty mold, may grow on the honeydew making the leaves look dirty. Closer inspection will reveal small cottony or dome-shaped shells attached to stems and leaves. When pried off with a knifepoint, they may be hollow underneath or house adults and/or eggs. Scale can be differentiated from parts of the plant by scraping. If the structure is green when scraped or cannot be pried off, it is more than likely part of the plant.
Life Cycle
Scale insects have a simple life cycle of egg, nymph (crawler), and adult. Indoors, eggs can be laid any time under the protective shell. The eggs hatch and the crawlers seek out new feeding sites. This crawler stage is when scale is easiest to control. When the crawlers settle, they insert their mouth parts into the plant and begin feeding on the plant's sap. The protective shell develops soon after feeding begins and the insect loses use of its legs. Indoor scales can go through many generations a year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove insects by hand. If caught early, scale insects can be rubbed off by hand, with a discarded toothbrush, or with a cotton swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Prune out heavily infested portions of the plant.
2. Use insecticidal soap. Monitor plants frequently. When crawlers are noticed, use insecticidal soaps that are formulated to kill insects and not damage plants. Frequent sprays may be needed until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior horticultural oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or ultra-refined horticultural oils are effective in controlling both adults and scale crawlers. The oil suffocates the insects. Unlike dormant oils, these oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to certain plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Sprays containing pyrethrins, a plant-derived insecticide, are effective and more benign than other chemical pesticides. Follow label directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors. Infested houseplants summered outdoors frequently benefit from the many natural enemies of scale. Be sure to check plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors in fall to be sure they are pest-free.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Mealybugs are common pests of indoor plants. They can also be serious pests of outdoor plants in warmer climates, such as Florida and California.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Adult females are oval, 1/5 to 1/3 inch long, and have a waxy, white, cottony appearance. They are slow moving and usually are in clusters along leaf veins, on the underside of leaves, and in hidden areas at joints. They are piercing-sucking insects, which feed on plant sap. The insects exude a honeydew, which can cause leaves to become sticky. Ants may be attracted to the sweet liquid. In time, a black mold, called sooty mold, can grow on the honeydew giving the leaves a dirty, sooty appearance. Plants infested with mealybugs become weak, may wilt and turn yellow, and eventually die.
Life Cycle
Indoors, eggs can be laid any time of year. Eggs hatch in about 2 weeks. The young mature in 6–8 weeks. Several generations can occur in the same year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove insects. Dislodge as many insects as possible using a strong stream of water. A cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol will also effectively remove a few insects.
2. Use insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps specially formulated to kill insects and not damage plants are effective if used frequently until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or horticultural oils are also very effective in controlling mealybugs. The oil suffocates the insects. Unlike dormant oils, these oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to some plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Follow directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Adult females are oval, 1/5 to 1/3 inch long, and have a waxy, white, cottony appearance. They are slow moving and usually are in clusters along leaf veins, on the underside of leaves, and in hidden areas at joints. They are piercing-sucking insects, which feed on plant sap. The insects exude a honeydew, which can cause leaves to become sticky. Ants may be attracted to the sweet liquid. In time, a black mold, called sooty mold, can grow on the honeydew giving the leaves a dirty, sooty appearance. Plants infested with mealybugs become weak, may wilt and turn yellow, and eventually die.
Life Cycle
Indoors, eggs can be laid any time of year. Eggs hatch in about 2 weeks. The young mature in 6–8 weeks. Several generations can occur in the same year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove insects. Dislodge as many insects as possible using a strong stream of water. A cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol will also effectively remove a few insects.
2. Use insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps specially formulated to kill insects and not damage plants are effective if used frequently until the problem is under control.
3. Use superior oil sprays. Highly refined oils sold as superior or horticultural oils are also very effective in controlling mealybugs. The oil suffocates the insects. Unlike dormant oils, these oils are highly refined and under proper conditions, can be applied to plants in foliage without damage. Follow label directions to avoid damage to some plants that may be sensitive. Superior oils are also considered nontoxic and are less likely to harm beneficial insects. When spraying indoors, protect surfaces that may be damaged by an oil residue.
4. Use chemical insecticides. Many insecticides registered for use indoors are available. Follow directions and, if possible, spray out-of-doors or in a garage, weather permitting.
5. To limit future problems, inspect plants regularly. With regular inspection, pest problems can be caught when just beginning and control is easier. It is also recommended to isolate newly acquired plants for 2–3 weeks to limit introducing pests indoors. Bringing plants indoors in the fall is another way of introducing insects indoors.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease of indoor plants. African violets, begonias, ivy, jade, kalanchoe, poinsettia and rosemary are susceptible to powdery mildew. It thrives best in cool, damp conditions.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Powdery mildew starts as a dusty, white to gray, thread-like coating over leaf surfaces, stems, buds or flowers. It can be partially removed by rubbing the leaves but this will not eliminate the fungus.
Life Cycle
Powdery mildew is caused by many species of fungi each responsible for causing the disease on a limited number of plant species. That is, the species of fungi that causes powdery mildew on African violets is not the same species that causes powder mildew on rosemary. Therefore, powdery mildew on one plant may not spread to a dissimilar plant. Even given this, both plants may develop powdery mildew from different species of fungi if favorable conditions exist for disease development. Several species of powdery mildew can be common both indoors and out.
Powdery mildew starts as discrete, circular powdery white spots on leaves. It may also be on other above ground plant parts. The fungal mycelium grows and in time can cover large parts of the plant giving them a dusty, powdery, or silvery appearance. Powdery spores are produced that spread to other parts of the plant or related plants. The disease can develop and spread anytime the conditions for growth are favorable. Photosynthesis is impaired and growth may be stunted. Buds fail to mature. The plant declines in growth and vigor and eventually becomes unsightly.
Integrated Pest Management
1. Don’t ask for a problem. Choose healthy plants and purchase mildew resistant cultivars if possible.
2. Sanitation. At the first sign of infection, isolate the plant. Remove and dispose of all infected plant parts. Discard severely infected plants.
3. Evaluate and modify the growth environment. Keep plants in a well-ventilated area and do not overcrowd. Improve air circulation around plants. Avoid wetting leaves when watering, do not water from above.
4. Don’t over fertilize. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers since powdery mildew attacks new succulent growth.
5. Treat with baking soda. Some gardeners recommend applying a baking soda solution to prevent the fungi from establishing. This changes the pH of the leaf surface. Test on a few leaves first as this may damage some plants. Some may feel this treatment may look as unsightly as the mildew disease itself.
6. Use a commercial fungicide. Valuable plants or crops may require the application of an appropriate fungicide labeled for indoor use, preferably one that is systemic. Be sure to read the label and follow directions.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Powdery mildew starts as a dusty, white to gray, thread-like coating over leaf surfaces, stems, buds or flowers. It can be partially removed by rubbing the leaves but this will not eliminate the fungus.
Life Cycle
Powdery mildew is caused by many species of fungi each responsible for causing the disease on a limited number of plant species. That is, the species of fungi that causes powdery mildew on African violets is not the same species that causes powder mildew on rosemary. Therefore, powdery mildew on one plant may not spread to a dissimilar plant. Even given this, both plants may develop powdery mildew from different species of fungi if favorable conditions exist for disease development. Several species of powdery mildew can be common both indoors and out.
Powdery mildew starts as discrete, circular powdery white spots on leaves. It may also be on other above ground plant parts. The fungal mycelium grows and in time can cover large parts of the plant giving them a dusty, powdery, or silvery appearance. Powdery spores are produced that spread to other parts of the plant or related plants. The disease can develop and spread anytime the conditions for growth are favorable. Photosynthesis is impaired and growth may be stunted. Buds fail to mature. The plant declines in growth and vigor and eventually becomes unsightly.
Integrated Pest Management
1. Don’t ask for a problem. Choose healthy plants and purchase mildew resistant cultivars if possible.
2. Sanitation. At the first sign of infection, isolate the plant. Remove and dispose of all infected plant parts. Discard severely infected plants.
3. Evaluate and modify the growth environment. Keep plants in a well-ventilated area and do not overcrowd. Improve air circulation around plants. Avoid wetting leaves when watering, do not water from above.
4. Don’t over fertilize. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers since powdery mildew attacks new succulent growth.
5. Treat with baking soda. Some gardeners recommend applying a baking soda solution to prevent the fungi from establishing. This changes the pH of the leaf surface. Test on a few leaves first as this may damage some plants. Some may feel this treatment may look as unsightly as the mildew disease itself.
6. Use a commercial fungicide. Valuable plants or crops may require the application of an appropriate fungicide labeled for indoor use, preferably one that is systemic. Be sure to read the label and follow directions.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Steneotarsonemus pallidus, or cyclamen mites, can be major pests on strawberries. Plants they infest are chlorotic and sickly looking because mites extract chlorophyll from the plants.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Yellow or white stippling appears on leaves. New growth is stunted and older growth becomes distorted and curled. Flower buds may drop. Fruit that develops from infected buds are small and dry. Whole plants may have a bronze cast.
Life Cycle
Mites are minute arachnids, only measuring up to 1/25 inch. Under a magnifying lens, you will find that adults are red-orange and immature stages are somewhat translucent. The distorted growth and bronze cast of the plant occur due to toxins injected by the mites. They overwinter in the crowns of strawberry plants. Mites can do serious damage to strawberry plantings because they can reproduce and spread quickly; a new generation may be produced every 14 days.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Apply insecticidal soap weekly until control is achieved to rid plants of mites. Make sure to cover the undersides of leaves because that is where these pests tend to be found feeding.
2. Remove and destroy infested plants.
3. Apply insecticides. Pesticides registered for use include dicofol (Kelthane and endosulfan (Thiodan).
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Yellow or white stippling appears on leaves. New growth is stunted and older growth becomes distorted and curled. Flower buds may drop. Fruit that develops from infected buds are small and dry. Whole plants may have a bronze cast.
Life Cycle
Mites are minute arachnids, only measuring up to 1/25 inch. Under a magnifying lens, you will find that adults are red-orange and immature stages are somewhat translucent. The distorted growth and bronze cast of the plant occur due to toxins injected by the mites. They overwinter in the crowns of strawberry plants. Mites can do serious damage to strawberry plantings because they can reproduce and spread quickly; a new generation may be produced every 14 days.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Apply insecticidal soap weekly until control is achieved to rid plants of mites. Make sure to cover the undersides of leaves because that is where these pests tend to be found feeding.
2. Remove and destroy infested plants.
3. Apply insecticides. Pesticides registered for use include dicofol (Kelthane and endosulfan (Thiodan).
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meriunkat
2017年09月17日
My boyfriend brought me these plants that he found at CVS all sad and dry, so ill be helping them heal😄💚 not to mention i was looking for #Kalanchoetomentosa and he brought me three of em😅 also there was some propagated babies beside them, ill show you guys tomorrow😁
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Heidi Liu：@meriunkat yes, i will wait till the end~~~😂
meriunkat：@Heidi Liu oh wow that it a long time😅 but we do have high hopes😁
meriunkat：@cclecombe aww thank you😆
Heidi Liu：@meriunkat i googled, some of them said it might take up to two months and the leaf is still healthy with nothing comes out. omg, hope i will see something.
cclecombe：Fingers crossed it all goes well! What a great boyfriend!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
A weed is a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth, especially one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants. Summer annual weeds emerge in the spring or early summer, grow during the summer, produce seed in mid to late summer, and are killed by frost in the fall. Following are some of the more common summer annual weeds for the St. Louis area. General control measures are listed at the end of this article.
GRASSES
Barnyardgrass
Barnyardgrass (Echinochloa crus-galli) is a summer annual grass that germinates from seeds from late winter or early spring throughout the summer. The stems are usually erect, thick, without hairs, often branched at the lower nodes, and may be tinted red to maroon at the base. The stems may reach 5 feet in height. The smooth, hairless leaves are rolled in the bud and contain neither ligules nor auricles. The dark green leaves, which range from 4 to 20 inches in length, have a distinct white midvein range. The seed head is green to reddish purple, with conspicuous, short stiff bristles or barbed spikelets. The roots are fibrous. Under close mowing, the broad, compressed purple sheaths of barnyardgrass lie flat on the ground and spread in a semicircular pattern. Barnyardgrass is found in moist soils, especially soils high in nutrients.
Crabgrass
Crabgrass, large and smooth (Digitaria sanguinalis, Digitaria ischaemum) are pale green summer annuals that has a prostrate or ascending growth habit. The two main species of crabgrass that occur in Missouri are smooth and large. Smooth crabgrass may be distinguished from large crabgrass by the absence of hairs on the leaves and sheath. Also smooth crabgrass does not root at the nodes like large crabgrass. Both species have a long, jagged membranous ligule and have no auricles. Crabgrass forms dense, unsightly patches that smother desirable turf grasses. Germination occurs when soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees F and is generally killed at the first frost. A crabgrass plant which needs warm soils and sunlight can produce 150,000 seeds. The seed head is composed of 2-6 branches (spikes) at the top of the stems forming 2 rows along the spike.
To control early in the season, use a pre-emergent herbicide as soon as soil temperatures reach 55 degrees F for a period of four days about the time forsythia blooms. A pre-emergent herbicide is recommended even if some crabgrass plants have germinated. There will still be crabgrass seed in the soil and the herbicide can prevent further infestation. Do not aerate after a pre-emergent herbicide application. For crabgrass control after germination, use a post-emergent selective grass herbicide.
Fall Panicum
Fall panicum (Panicum dichotomiflorum) is known as smooth witchgrass. It has a zigzag appearance as the buds turn out at the nodes. It has a very rounded stem, grows to 7’ and there is a purple tinge to its inflorescence. Sometimes it is confused with Johnson grass or barnyard grass, but fall panicum has a hairy ligule. Also its first true leaf has hairs on the underside of the blade, Johnson grass and barnyard grass do not.
Witchgrass
Panicum capillare is known as witchgrass or tickle grass. Culms are erect or spreading at the base. They are hollow, and pubescent at the nodes. They grow from 8 to 28” inches tall. The inflorescence is often ½ the length of the entire plant. It is purplish at maturity. It is softly hairy and the seeds are 1/16 of an inch. The head breaks off easily and rolls away in the wind, like a tumbleweed.
Goosegrass
Goosegrass (Elusine indica) is a prostrate-growing summer annual weed that grows in a clump. The leaves are distinctly folded in the bud and may be smooth or have a few sparse hairs at the base of the leaf. Goosegrass can be identified by the whitish stems at the base that are extremely compressed and flattened. The ligule is toothed and membranous with a cut in the center. There are no auricles. Goosegrass seed heads contain 3-7 spikes that form at the tip of the stalk. The seeds are attached in a zipper appearance on the spike. Goosegrass germinates about two weeks later than smooth crabgrass. Goosegrass can tolerate heavy traffic, dry compacted soils and low mowing heights.
Sandbur
Sandbur (Cenchrus longispinus) is a low-growing summer annual weed which is found in dense spreading patches most commonly in sandy soils. It roots at the nodes on the stems if they touch the ground. The leaves are folded in the bud, ¼ inch wide, and tapering to a point. The ligule is a short fringe of hairs and the auricles are absent. The seed head is a single spike with 6 to 20 rounded burs which contain 2 seeds in each bur. Sandbur seeds catch on clothing and animal fur and the barbed burs can easily pierce the skin and cause injury to livestock and people. Plants growing low to the ground can still produce burs. After a frost, entire plants become straw-colored, but stems with burs can persist through the winter. Seed dispersal occurs by animals, farm equipment, tires and in contaminated hay. Water is also important for seed dispersal, as burs float and may be carried for miles in irrigations ditches and other waterways.
Yellow Foxtail
Yellow foxtail (Setaria glauca) is a summer annual found especially in the Midwest and Eastern parts of the United States. It germinates when soil temperatures reach 65 degrees. Leaves are rolled in the bud. The ligule is a fringe of hairs. Auricles are absent. The collar is narrow and continuous. The blade contains hairs near the ligule. It has an upright growth pattern. The seed head is a bushy spike which resembles the tail of a fox.
BROADLEAFS
Black Medic
Black medic (Medicago lupulina) is a summer annual that can act as a perennial. The leaf is similar to other legumes, but the center leaflet is on a separate petiole. The flower is a compressed cluster of bright yellow flowers in the shape of a globular spike on short branches. The seed pod turns black at maturity. It will produce seeds at normal mowing heights. It can be confused with lespedeza (Kummerowia striata) unless it is blooming. Lespedeza has a bright blue flower.
Carpetweed
Carpetweed (Mollugo verticillata) is a summer annual with smooth prostrate branching stems forming circular mats. It is light green in color, the leaves are lanceolate in shape, widest in the middle and narrow at tip and base. Leaves form whorls containing 3-8 leaves. The flowers are white, have 5 petals, and form clusters of 2-5 flowers. Flowers are formed in the leaf axils. It spreads by seed, and is found throughout North America. Carpetweed germinates much later than other summer weeds. It grows quickly, especially in thin turf. Mowing misses it. It prefers rich moist soils, but it can establish itself in dry, sandy soil.
Lambsquarter
Lambsquarter (Chenopodium album) is an erect growing summer annual that may appear highly branched in a mowed setting. The immature leaves appear to be covered with a white mealy substance, especially on the underside of the leaf. The first pair of leaves are opposite, and subsequent leaves are alternate along the stems. Leaf margins vary, but usually are irregularly lobed. The root of lambsquarter is a short, branched taproot. The flowers are found in small green clusters and lack petals. The clusters of flowers form in terminal spikes. Lambsquarter spreads by black seeds that germinate in the late spring to early summer. Each plant produces thousands of tiny seeds that may remain viable for years. When lambsquarter is abundant, it is reported to cause hay fever symptoms.
Mallow
Mallow (Hibiscus trionum) is a summer annual-- it is also called “flower of an hour”. There is a winter annual mallow, it is usually called the common mallow. H. trionum is grown in Europe as an ornamental. It is upright 10-18”. It is covered with hairs. The leaves are deeply cleft with 3-5 coarsely toothed lobes on long petioles. The lower stems and petioles are red to purple in color. It has a fibrous root system with a weak taproot. It has a showy flower. It is light sulfur-yellow in color with a deep red to purple center. It does last 2-3 hours then the petals drop. It spreads by seed. The seed can be dormant for 50 years. It is found throughout the U.S. Mallow can infest nurseries, orchards, roadsides, cultivated fields and open areas. It tolerates drought, alkaline soil, and gravelly soils.
Pigweed
Pigweed is actually toxic to pigs and cows. This summer annual has alternate leaves. There are 10 pigweeds (Amaranthus) identified through the corn belt area: redroot, smooth, rough pigweed, Powell, tumble, prostrate, spiny, tall, sandhill and another one. The difference is in the flower. The leaves are alternate, the seeds (1/25”) are shiny, round and flat. The plant can reach 2-4’ for the smaller ones and up to 61/2’ for the larger ones.
Prostrate knotweed
Prostrate knotweed (Polygonum aviculare) is a summer annual which resembles a grass with long, dark leaves as the seedling emerges. Later, it forms a flat mat up to 2 to 3 feet in diameter on slender wiry stems that emerge from a tap root. There are papery sheath or ocrea at each node that give the stems a knotted or swollen appearance. The alternate leaves are small and narrowly oval, dull and bluish green, and 1 ¼ inches long by 1/3 inch wide. The flowers are small pink to white and form in clusters in the leaf axis. Knotweed is found in compacted, infertile soil or thin turf in the sun. Smartweed is a close relative of knotweed, but it has a purple ocrea encircling the stem. Spotted spurge may be confused with knotweed, but the spurges do not have an ocrea and emit a milky sap when cut, unlike prostrate knotweed.
Puncturevine
Puncturevine (Tribulus terrestris) is a summer annual weed with multiple stems prostrate along the ground. Stems may be up to five feet long originating from a taproot. Leaves are compound pinnate with four to eight pairs of hairy leaflets. Each leaflet is less than ½ inch long. The small yellow flowers have five petals and are about 1/3 inch wide. The flowers, which consist of 5 petals, produce hard, spiny, five-lobed fruit. Bloom is in late spring and early summer. At maturity the fruit breaks into tack-like structures each containing 2 to 4 seeds. Seed nutlets disperse by adhering to tires, shoes and clothing of people, fur, feathers, and feet of animals. These burs can injure people and animals and can damage bike and car tires. Foliage is toxic to livestock, especially sheep, when consumed in quantity. The fruit is used medicinally in India.
Purslane
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is a prostrate mat-forming summer annual that can reach up to 24 inches long. It has multi-branched red stems that root at the nodes wherever they contact the soil surface. The smooth, thick, fleshy leaves are usually alternate and are often clustered near the ends of the branches. The entire plant is very succulent and resembles a jade plant. Purslane is common to disturbed soil, new seedlings, sidewalk crevices and mulched planting beds. It prefers high light and warm conditions. This plant reproduces by seeds that are formed in a capsule with a lid that flips open in the spring. Solitary yellow flowers with 5 petals will only open with sunny conditions from May to September. Purslane’s use as a medicinal herb to treat dysentery, headache, and stomach ache dates back 2000 years. It was also used as a salad green by the Australian aborigines, by the Chinese, French, Italians, and the English.
Ragweed
Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisifolia) is a summer annual that produces pollen. One weed equals 1 billion grains of pollen, 100 million tons of pollen are produced per year. It grows up to 5’ tall. Opposite leaves are egg-shaped in outline and once or twice compound (pinnatified), they are hairy on their upper surface and margin. Leaves can be up to 6” long, The erect stems have long rough hairs. The fruit is an achene, which resembles a queen’s crown. It has a shallow taproot. There is a giant ragweed (Ambrosia tridida) which grows up to 14’ high. No animal eats ragweed.
Spurge
Prostrate spurge (Euphorbia supine) and spotted spurge (Euphorbia maculate) are summer annual weeds. Spotted spurge has a more erect growth habit than prostrate spurge. Prostrate spurge forms dense mats with its stems radiating out from a shallow taproot. Both species have similar leaves, which are small and oblong with an irregular maroon to purple spot in their center. However, the leaves of spotted spurge are slightly larger than those of prostrate spurge. Both spurges have leaves that grow opposite on the stem, but spotted spurge has fewer leaves per stem. When the leaves of both spurges are broken or injured they emit a milky white sap (similar to dandelion). Prostrate spurge roots at the nodes, but spotted spurge does not. Both spurges reproduce from seed. The flower of spotted spurge is small and green in color. Prostrate spurge has inconspicuous small, pinkish white flowers in the leaf axils.
Vervain
Vervain (Verbena officinalis) is known as the herb of enchantment. It is used medically in 30 complaints. Supposedly vervain staunched the wounds of Christ on the Mount of Calvary. It has a slightly bitter taste and it has no scent. Vervain is rarely perennial, the leaves are numerous, opposite, lanceolate to ovate ½ to 3” long. It is pinnately toothed, it can have 3 lobes, with the center lobe larger than the others. The leaves are hairy on both surfaces. The flower is a dense terminal spike 1-8” long, usually ascending. The flower is blue or purple with 5 lobes, the tiny flowers are almost hidden by conspicuous hairy bracts.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies for Summer Annual Weeds
1. Use good cultural practices to prevent the spread of summer annual weeds. Maintain a dense actively growing turf through proper mowing, fertilizing and watering practices. Most lawns should be cut at least 2 inches or higher. Watering deeply (4-6 inches) just before the turf begins to wilt is a sound approach. Frequent light watering promotes weak turf with shallow roots which are more susceptible to insect and disease attacks as well as weed invasion. Complete soil testing is the key to proper liming and fertilization. Cultural practices for the control of summer annual weeds are aimed at shading and crowding the young weed seedlings by producing a dense sod.
2. Dig up the weeds.
3. Coring and traffic control reduce compaction and encourage desirable turfgrass growth. Mulch flower beds to control weeds.
4. Use chemical herbicides. Use a post-emergent herbicide when the weed is young, usually three to four leaf stage. It is best to control summer annual weeds in late spring or early summer when they are young. They are easier to control at that time and both warm season and cool season turfgrasses have a greater chance to recover the areas previously occupied by weeds. There are also some pre-emergent herbicides available which form a chemical barrier in the soil and prevent the weeds from emerging. Check herbicide labels to verify that the herbicide you have chosen is effective in controlling your problem weed and when and how to apply.
GRASSES
Barnyardgrass
Barnyardgrass (Echinochloa crus-galli) is a summer annual grass that germinates from seeds from late winter or early spring throughout the summer. The stems are usually erect, thick, without hairs, often branched at the lower nodes, and may be tinted red to maroon at the base. The stems may reach 5 feet in height. The smooth, hairless leaves are rolled in the bud and contain neither ligules nor auricles. The dark green leaves, which range from 4 to 20 inches in length, have a distinct white midvein range. The seed head is green to reddish purple, with conspicuous, short stiff bristles or barbed spikelets. The roots are fibrous. Under close mowing, the broad, compressed purple sheaths of barnyardgrass lie flat on the ground and spread in a semicircular pattern. Barnyardgrass is found in moist soils, especially soils high in nutrients.
Crabgrass
Crabgrass, large and smooth (Digitaria sanguinalis, Digitaria ischaemum) are pale green summer annuals that has a prostrate or ascending growth habit. The two main species of crabgrass that occur in Missouri are smooth and large. Smooth crabgrass may be distinguished from large crabgrass by the absence of hairs on the leaves and sheath. Also smooth crabgrass does not root at the nodes like large crabgrass. Both species have a long, jagged membranous ligule and have no auricles. Crabgrass forms dense, unsightly patches that smother desirable turf grasses. Germination occurs when soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees F and is generally killed at the first frost. A crabgrass plant which needs warm soils and sunlight can produce 150,000 seeds. The seed head is composed of 2-6 branches (spikes) at the top of the stems forming 2 rows along the spike.
To control early in the season, use a pre-emergent herbicide as soon as soil temperatures reach 55 degrees F for a period of four days about the time forsythia blooms. A pre-emergent herbicide is recommended even if some crabgrass plants have germinated. There will still be crabgrass seed in the soil and the herbicide can prevent further infestation. Do not aerate after a pre-emergent herbicide application. For crabgrass control after germination, use a post-emergent selective grass herbicide.
Fall Panicum
Fall panicum (Panicum dichotomiflorum) is known as smooth witchgrass. It has a zigzag appearance as the buds turn out at the nodes. It has a very rounded stem, grows to 7’ and there is a purple tinge to its inflorescence. Sometimes it is confused with Johnson grass or barnyard grass, but fall panicum has a hairy ligule. Also its first true leaf has hairs on the underside of the blade, Johnson grass and barnyard grass do not.
Witchgrass
Panicum capillare is known as witchgrass or tickle grass. Culms are erect or spreading at the base. They are hollow, and pubescent at the nodes. They grow from 8 to 28” inches tall. The inflorescence is often ½ the length of the entire plant. It is purplish at maturity. It is softly hairy and the seeds are 1/16 of an inch. The head breaks off easily and rolls away in the wind, like a tumbleweed.
Goosegrass
Goosegrass (Elusine indica) is a prostrate-growing summer annual weed that grows in a clump. The leaves are distinctly folded in the bud and may be smooth or have a few sparse hairs at the base of the leaf. Goosegrass can be identified by the whitish stems at the base that are extremely compressed and flattened. The ligule is toothed and membranous with a cut in the center. There are no auricles. Goosegrass seed heads contain 3-7 spikes that form at the tip of the stalk. The seeds are attached in a zipper appearance on the spike. Goosegrass germinates about two weeks later than smooth crabgrass. Goosegrass can tolerate heavy traffic, dry compacted soils and low mowing heights.
Sandbur
Sandbur (Cenchrus longispinus) is a low-growing summer annual weed which is found in dense spreading patches most commonly in sandy soils. It roots at the nodes on the stems if they touch the ground. The leaves are folded in the bud, ¼ inch wide, and tapering to a point. The ligule is a short fringe of hairs and the auricles are absent. The seed head is a single spike with 6 to 20 rounded burs which contain 2 seeds in each bur. Sandbur seeds catch on clothing and animal fur and the barbed burs can easily pierce the skin and cause injury to livestock and people. Plants growing low to the ground can still produce burs. After a frost, entire plants become straw-colored, but stems with burs can persist through the winter. Seed dispersal occurs by animals, farm equipment, tires and in contaminated hay. Water is also important for seed dispersal, as burs float and may be carried for miles in irrigations ditches and other waterways.
Yellow Foxtail
Yellow foxtail (Setaria glauca) is a summer annual found especially in the Midwest and Eastern parts of the United States. It germinates when soil temperatures reach 65 degrees. Leaves are rolled in the bud. The ligule is a fringe of hairs. Auricles are absent. The collar is narrow and continuous. The blade contains hairs near the ligule. It has an upright growth pattern. The seed head is a bushy spike which resembles the tail of a fox.
BROADLEAFS
Black Medic
Black medic (Medicago lupulina) is a summer annual that can act as a perennial. The leaf is similar to other legumes, but the center leaflet is on a separate petiole. The flower is a compressed cluster of bright yellow flowers in the shape of a globular spike on short branches. The seed pod turns black at maturity. It will produce seeds at normal mowing heights. It can be confused with lespedeza (Kummerowia striata) unless it is blooming. Lespedeza has a bright blue flower.
Carpetweed
Carpetweed (Mollugo verticillata) is a summer annual with smooth prostrate branching stems forming circular mats. It is light green in color, the leaves are lanceolate in shape, widest in the middle and narrow at tip and base. Leaves form whorls containing 3-8 leaves. The flowers are white, have 5 petals, and form clusters of 2-5 flowers. Flowers are formed in the leaf axils. It spreads by seed, and is found throughout North America. Carpetweed germinates much later than other summer weeds. It grows quickly, especially in thin turf. Mowing misses it. It prefers rich moist soils, but it can establish itself in dry, sandy soil.
Lambsquarter
Lambsquarter (Chenopodium album) is an erect growing summer annual that may appear highly branched in a mowed setting. The immature leaves appear to be covered with a white mealy substance, especially on the underside of the leaf. The first pair of leaves are opposite, and subsequent leaves are alternate along the stems. Leaf margins vary, but usually are irregularly lobed. The root of lambsquarter is a short, branched taproot. The flowers are found in small green clusters and lack petals. The clusters of flowers form in terminal spikes. Lambsquarter spreads by black seeds that germinate in the late spring to early summer. Each plant produces thousands of tiny seeds that may remain viable for years. When lambsquarter is abundant, it is reported to cause hay fever symptoms.
Mallow
Mallow (Hibiscus trionum) is a summer annual-- it is also called “flower of an hour”. There is a winter annual mallow, it is usually called the common mallow. H. trionum is grown in Europe as an ornamental. It is upright 10-18”. It is covered with hairs. The leaves are deeply cleft with 3-5 coarsely toothed lobes on long petioles. The lower stems and petioles are red to purple in color. It has a fibrous root system with a weak taproot. It has a showy flower. It is light sulfur-yellow in color with a deep red to purple center. It does last 2-3 hours then the petals drop. It spreads by seed. The seed can be dormant for 50 years. It is found throughout the U.S. Mallow can infest nurseries, orchards, roadsides, cultivated fields and open areas. It tolerates drought, alkaline soil, and gravelly soils.
Pigweed
Pigweed is actually toxic to pigs and cows. This summer annual has alternate leaves. There are 10 pigweeds (Amaranthus) identified through the corn belt area: redroot, smooth, rough pigweed, Powell, tumble, prostrate, spiny, tall, sandhill and another one. The difference is in the flower. The leaves are alternate, the seeds (1/25”) are shiny, round and flat. The plant can reach 2-4’ for the smaller ones and up to 61/2’ for the larger ones.
Prostrate knotweed
Prostrate knotweed (Polygonum aviculare) is a summer annual which resembles a grass with long, dark leaves as the seedling emerges. Later, it forms a flat mat up to 2 to 3 feet in diameter on slender wiry stems that emerge from a tap root. There are papery sheath or ocrea at each node that give the stems a knotted or swollen appearance. The alternate leaves are small and narrowly oval, dull and bluish green, and 1 ¼ inches long by 1/3 inch wide. The flowers are small pink to white and form in clusters in the leaf axis. Knotweed is found in compacted, infertile soil or thin turf in the sun. Smartweed is a close relative of knotweed, but it has a purple ocrea encircling the stem. Spotted spurge may be confused with knotweed, but the spurges do not have an ocrea and emit a milky sap when cut, unlike prostrate knotweed.
Puncturevine
Puncturevine (Tribulus terrestris) is a summer annual weed with multiple stems prostrate along the ground. Stems may be up to five feet long originating from a taproot. Leaves are compound pinnate with four to eight pairs of hairy leaflets. Each leaflet is less than ½ inch long. The small yellow flowers have five petals and are about 1/3 inch wide. The flowers, which consist of 5 petals, produce hard, spiny, five-lobed fruit. Bloom is in late spring and early summer. At maturity the fruit breaks into tack-like structures each containing 2 to 4 seeds. Seed nutlets disperse by adhering to tires, shoes and clothing of people, fur, feathers, and feet of animals. These burs can injure people and animals and can damage bike and car tires. Foliage is toxic to livestock, especially sheep, when consumed in quantity. The fruit is used medicinally in India.
Purslane
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is a prostrate mat-forming summer annual that can reach up to 24 inches long. It has multi-branched red stems that root at the nodes wherever they contact the soil surface. The smooth, thick, fleshy leaves are usually alternate and are often clustered near the ends of the branches. The entire plant is very succulent and resembles a jade plant. Purslane is common to disturbed soil, new seedlings, sidewalk crevices and mulched planting beds. It prefers high light and warm conditions. This plant reproduces by seeds that are formed in a capsule with a lid that flips open in the spring. Solitary yellow flowers with 5 petals will only open with sunny conditions from May to September. Purslane’s use as a medicinal herb to treat dysentery, headache, and stomach ache dates back 2000 years. It was also used as a salad green by the Australian aborigines, by the Chinese, French, Italians, and the English.
Ragweed
Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisifolia) is a summer annual that produces pollen. One weed equals 1 billion grains of pollen, 100 million tons of pollen are produced per year. It grows up to 5’ tall. Opposite leaves are egg-shaped in outline and once or twice compound (pinnatified), they are hairy on their upper surface and margin. Leaves can be up to 6” long, The erect stems have long rough hairs. The fruit is an achene, which resembles a queen’s crown. It has a shallow taproot. There is a giant ragweed (Ambrosia tridida) which grows up to 14’ high. No animal eats ragweed.
Spurge
Prostrate spurge (Euphorbia supine) and spotted spurge (Euphorbia maculate) are summer annual weeds. Spotted spurge has a more erect growth habit than prostrate spurge. Prostrate spurge forms dense mats with its stems radiating out from a shallow taproot. Both species have similar leaves, which are small and oblong with an irregular maroon to purple spot in their center. However, the leaves of spotted spurge are slightly larger than those of prostrate spurge. Both spurges have leaves that grow opposite on the stem, but spotted spurge has fewer leaves per stem. When the leaves of both spurges are broken or injured they emit a milky white sap (similar to dandelion). Prostrate spurge roots at the nodes, but spotted spurge does not. Both spurges reproduce from seed. The flower of spotted spurge is small and green in color. Prostrate spurge has inconspicuous small, pinkish white flowers in the leaf axils.
Vervain
Vervain (Verbena officinalis) is known as the herb of enchantment. It is used medically in 30 complaints. Supposedly vervain staunched the wounds of Christ on the Mount of Calvary. It has a slightly bitter taste and it has no scent. Vervain is rarely perennial, the leaves are numerous, opposite, lanceolate to ovate ½ to 3” long. It is pinnately toothed, it can have 3 lobes, with the center lobe larger than the others. The leaves are hairy on both surfaces. The flower is a dense terminal spike 1-8” long, usually ascending. The flower is blue or purple with 5 lobes, the tiny flowers are almost hidden by conspicuous hairy bracts.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies for Summer Annual Weeds
1. Use good cultural practices to prevent the spread of summer annual weeds. Maintain a dense actively growing turf through proper mowing, fertilizing and watering practices. Most lawns should be cut at least 2 inches or higher. Watering deeply (4-6 inches) just before the turf begins to wilt is a sound approach. Frequent light watering promotes weak turf with shallow roots which are more susceptible to insect and disease attacks as well as weed invasion. Complete soil testing is the key to proper liming and fertilization. Cultural practices for the control of summer annual weeds are aimed at shading and crowding the young weed seedlings by producing a dense sod.
2. Dig up the weeds.
3. Coring and traffic control reduce compaction and encourage desirable turfgrass growth. Mulch flower beds to control weeds.
4. Use chemical herbicides. Use a post-emergent herbicide when the weed is young, usually three to four leaf stage. It is best to control summer annual weeds in late spring or early summer when they are young. They are easier to control at that time and both warm season and cool season turfgrasses have a greater chance to recover the areas previously occupied by weeds. There are also some pre-emergent herbicides available which form a chemical barrier in the soil and prevent the weeds from emerging. Check herbicide labels to verify that the herbicide you have chosen is effective in controlling your problem weed and when and how to apply.
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