文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti and succulents can safely be sent through the mail but if you are mailing plants from one country to another, you should contact the Plant Protection Division of the Department of Agriculture for their country to find out what the guidelines are about what plants you are allowed to mail and where you can mail them. The purpose of this article is only to tell you how to mail them.
People who have been growers of non succulent plants may not be aware that succulent plants including cacti can be successfully mailed from one person to another and an entire collection can be packed and moved along with household belongings if you are moving your home from one place to another.
The unique thing about cacti and succulents is their ability to survive without any moisture for reasonable periods of time. They are therefore ideally suited to mailing or transporting either with their roots or without their roots.
Here’s how to proceed.
1. Shake all soil off the roots of the plants being careful to break as few roots as possible. Don’t worry if a few roots are broken. That won’t kill the plants. It is much easier to remove the soil if it is dried out. Don’t try to remove the soil after you water the plants!
2. Any plants that are in full growth and seem rather too juicy or turgid are safer allowed to dry out for a few days without water which will harden the growth and then they will be less likely to bruise or rot.
3. You can trim back excessive roots if you like, again with no damage to the plant.
4. Make sure the plant and roots are very dry. Succulents travel more safely if the roots are dry. And most important, there will be less weight to pay postage on! And these days heaven knows anything saved on postage is a bonus.
5. Prepare a label for each plant with the name of the plant on it.
6. Wrap each plant in soft paper – with the label with the name of the plant on it. If it is a delicate plant use soft kitchen towelling. If a stronger plant you can use newspaper. If lots of spines, use two or three layers of newspaper. I like to put a note on such plants to be careful when opening so people don’t stab themselves when opening the parcel.
7. A little different procedure is needed for a few plants such as Epiphytes, Orchid Cacti or Christmas Cactus. If they have roots, they do not do as well if left dry for too long. Use a small plastic bag containing a pinch of damp peat moss and wrap it around the roots only and secure with a rubber band. Actually it is better to send dry cuttings of these than to send cuttings with roots. If there are no roots you don’t need to worry about moisture-just wrap them dry.
8. An important safeguard for succulents sent through the mail is a strong, light weight box. The best type of box is one made of corrugated cardboard. Try your hardware store, garage, drugstore or the grocery store where you will often find these and they are usually free. If the box is too big, it is not difficult to make a smaller box out of a larger corrugated one. Just crease the folds with the back of a knife or ruler, cutting off excess where necessary.
DO NOT use cereal boxes, shoe boxes and the like and expect your package and plants to arrive uncrushed!! Remember your parcel can go hurtling along conveyor belts and down long chutes landing in huge piles with heavier packages on top of yours. Parcels have to withstand much battering as it goes through the post office. If you don’t wrap it right, it will fall apart. You could, however, use those flimsy types of boxes inside the box you are mailing to contain and separate some plants from others if you are packing quite a few. I find them handy for plants with really vicious spines which insist on piercing all sorts of paper but which are quite protected in a box within the box.
9. Pack sufficient extra paper (shredded paper or crumpled newspaper is good) around the individually wrapped plants in your box so they won’t shake around. Fill in also any empty spaces when all plants are put in the box. It is very important that the plants or cuttings do not move around in the box or they will damage each other.
10. Seal the box tightly with proper tape made for wrapping parcels. Ordinary scotch tape won’t hold! Do not use string or twine or cord. They are not allowed by the post office (at least in Canada). There is no need to wrap the box again in paper. If the box has been in the mail before and there are addresses or other notations on it, strike these out boldly with a marking pen.
11. Prepare three labels. Two for the outside of the box – top and bottom and one to go inside, just in case anything happens to badly damage the outside of the box. Either print out a label on your printer or print by hand – your address in the upper left hand corner. The address of the person you are sending it to in the middle further down. And make sure postal codes are shown for both addresses.
12. Write on all three labels in large letters at the bottom P E R I S H A B L E.
13. One final tip. If you send your plant parcels by regular parcel post which is the cheapest parcel rate available .. and spend and extra 50 cents or a dollar to insure the parcel with the post office, you will find that it goes through the post office very fast. They do not want insured mail to get lost so priority is given to getting it there. There is no point paying for what is now very expensive first class mail if you do it the insurance way and save many dollars in the process. And please note parcels sent by parcel services will often take much longer to arrive than those sent through the post office, especially if they are going outside your country.
People who have been growers of non succulent plants may not be aware that succulent plants including cacti can be successfully mailed from one person to another and an entire collection can be packed and moved along with household belongings if you are moving your home from one place to another.
The unique thing about cacti and succulents is their ability to survive without any moisture for reasonable periods of time. They are therefore ideally suited to mailing or transporting either with their roots or without their roots.
Here’s how to proceed.
1. Shake all soil off the roots of the plants being careful to break as few roots as possible. Don’t worry if a few roots are broken. That won’t kill the plants. It is much easier to remove the soil if it is dried out. Don’t try to remove the soil after you water the plants!
2. Any plants that are in full growth and seem rather too juicy or turgid are safer allowed to dry out for a few days without water which will harden the growth and then they will be less likely to bruise or rot.
3. You can trim back excessive roots if you like, again with no damage to the plant.
4. Make sure the plant and roots are very dry. Succulents travel more safely if the roots are dry. And most important, there will be less weight to pay postage on! And these days heaven knows anything saved on postage is a bonus.
5. Prepare a label for each plant with the name of the plant on it.
6. Wrap each plant in soft paper – with the label with the name of the plant on it. If it is a delicate plant use soft kitchen towelling. If a stronger plant you can use newspaper. If lots of spines, use two or three layers of newspaper. I like to put a note on such plants to be careful when opening so people don’t stab themselves when opening the parcel.
7. A little different procedure is needed for a few plants such as Epiphytes, Orchid Cacti or Christmas Cactus. If they have roots, they do not do as well if left dry for too long. Use a small plastic bag containing a pinch of damp peat moss and wrap it around the roots only and secure with a rubber band. Actually it is better to send dry cuttings of these than to send cuttings with roots. If there are no roots you don’t need to worry about moisture-just wrap them dry.
8. An important safeguard for succulents sent through the mail is a strong, light weight box. The best type of box is one made of corrugated cardboard. Try your hardware store, garage, drugstore or the grocery store where you will often find these and they are usually free. If the box is too big, it is not difficult to make a smaller box out of a larger corrugated one. Just crease the folds with the back of a knife or ruler, cutting off excess where necessary.
DO NOT use cereal boxes, shoe boxes and the like and expect your package and plants to arrive uncrushed!! Remember your parcel can go hurtling along conveyor belts and down long chutes landing in huge piles with heavier packages on top of yours. Parcels have to withstand much battering as it goes through the post office. If you don’t wrap it right, it will fall apart. You could, however, use those flimsy types of boxes inside the box you are mailing to contain and separate some plants from others if you are packing quite a few. I find them handy for plants with really vicious spines which insist on piercing all sorts of paper but which are quite protected in a box within the box.
9. Pack sufficient extra paper (shredded paper or crumpled newspaper is good) around the individually wrapped plants in your box so they won’t shake around. Fill in also any empty spaces when all plants are put in the box. It is very important that the plants or cuttings do not move around in the box or they will damage each other.
10. Seal the box tightly with proper tape made for wrapping parcels. Ordinary scotch tape won’t hold! Do not use string or twine or cord. They are not allowed by the post office (at least in Canada). There is no need to wrap the box again in paper. If the box has been in the mail before and there are addresses or other notations on it, strike these out boldly with a marking pen.
11. Prepare three labels. Two for the outside of the box – top and bottom and one to go inside, just in case anything happens to badly damage the outside of the box. Either print out a label on your printer or print by hand – your address in the upper left hand corner. The address of the person you are sending it to in the middle further down. And make sure postal codes are shown for both addresses.
12. Write on all three labels in large letters at the bottom P E R I S H A B L E.
13. One final tip. If you send your plant parcels by regular parcel post which is the cheapest parcel rate available .. and spend and extra 50 cents or a dollar to insure the parcel with the post office, you will find that it goes through the post office very fast. They do not want insured mail to get lost so priority is given to getting it there. There is no point paying for what is now very expensive first class mail if you do it the insurance way and save many dollars in the process. And please note parcels sent by parcel services will often take much longer to arrive than those sent through the post office, especially if they are going outside your country.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Myrtillocactus is a genus of cacti found from Mexico to Guatemala. The genus is best known with Myrtillocactus geometrizans. The largest plants in this genus can grow up to 16.5 feet (5 m) tall. Myrtillocactus tends to flower in the summer. After the greenish white flowers, this cactus will produce blue berries, hence the nickname Blueberry Cactus, which are eaten as a snack in Mexico.
Growing Conditions
Temperature: They are semi hardy, make sure that your Myrtillocactus are not exposed to temperatures below 25°F (-4°C) or they may die, nevertheless it is a good advice never let the nighttime’s temperatures fall below 50°F (10°C).
Light: In the summer place Myrtillocactus in the sunshine (indoors or outdoors). In the winter find a cooler, light spot. That will allow it to go into next spring well-rested, which will make it more likely to flower.
Water: This easy-care plant doesn’t want a lot of water. Allow the soil to dry out before you give it another drink. Keep the soil completely dry in winter.
Soil: Very free draining open compost.
Fertilizer: Treat it to special cactus food once a month in the spring and summer.
Repotting
If the plant needs repotting, use a fairly impoverished soil specially designed for cacti.
Propagation
By seed or cutting (allow the cut surface to dry out for 2-3 weeks before placing in an open rooting media). The cuttings, which will grow quickly, from this cactus must be taken when the temperature is high enough or the cuttings won’t root.
Growing Conditions
Temperature: They are semi hardy, make sure that your Myrtillocactus are not exposed to temperatures below 25°F (-4°C) or they may die, nevertheless it is a good advice never let the nighttime’s temperatures fall below 50°F (10°C).
Light: In the summer place Myrtillocactus in the sunshine (indoors or outdoors). In the winter find a cooler, light spot. That will allow it to go into next spring well-rested, which will make it more likely to flower.
Water: This easy-care plant doesn’t want a lot of water. Allow the soil to dry out before you give it another drink. Keep the soil completely dry in winter.
Soil: Very free draining open compost.
Fertilizer: Treat it to special cactus food once a month in the spring and summer.
Repotting
If the plant needs repotting, use a fairly impoverished soil specially designed for cacti.
Propagation
By seed or cutting (allow the cut surface to dry out for 2-3 weeks before placing in an open rooting media). The cuttings, which will grow quickly, from this cactus must be taken when the temperature is high enough or the cuttings won’t root.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
When you receive a box of succulents you should open it at once. Not that you won’t! You will be eager to see the contents. The plants will be in immediate need of air and light. Be careful that the light is not too strong for a few days. Avoid putting them in sunshine. Remember that the plants are succulent, have evolved to resist evaporation from leaves or bodies and will not wilt like ordinary plants. Light and air are more urgent immediate considerations than water.
Put the plants in a warm, bright place for a day or two and you can, if you wish, pot them up at once in slightly moist potting compost A light spraying now and then may help if the weather is hot and dry but avoid this in cold or damp weather. Let indications of fresh growth guide when to begin normal watering as well as weather conditions and the size and type of plant. Remember that cuttings without roots will not take water up without roots.
For cacti cuttings without roots, larger cacti have more reserves of their own to draw on and will not likely make roots as soon as young, small ones. It is wise to plant these rootless larger plants in extremely porous gritty compost which will dry out within a few hours of watering. Or you can put a little water in the pot saucer now and again which will be taken up into the soil in the lower half of the pot so that when roots form they go down looking for that moisture. In the meantime they are not sitting in soaking wet soil and tending to rot.
For plants with roots, just pot up in moist soil and watch for signs of life before you start a regular watering program.
Move the plants or cuttings gradually into the light they need, some eventually into full sunshine. If you don’t know if the plants need full sunshine, keep them in a very bright place out of full sunshine until you find out what light each plant needs.
Put the plants in a warm, bright place for a day or two and you can, if you wish, pot them up at once in slightly moist potting compost A light spraying now and then may help if the weather is hot and dry but avoid this in cold or damp weather. Let indications of fresh growth guide when to begin normal watering as well as weather conditions and the size and type of plant. Remember that cuttings without roots will not take water up without roots.
For cacti cuttings without roots, larger cacti have more reserves of their own to draw on and will not likely make roots as soon as young, small ones. It is wise to plant these rootless larger plants in extremely porous gritty compost which will dry out within a few hours of watering. Or you can put a little water in the pot saucer now and again which will be taken up into the soil in the lower half of the pot so that when roots form they go down looking for that moisture. In the meantime they are not sitting in soaking wet soil and tending to rot.
For plants with roots, just pot up in moist soil and watch for signs of life before you start a regular watering program.
Move the plants or cuttings gradually into the light they need, some eventually into full sunshine. If you don’t know if the plants need full sunshine, keep them in a very bright place out of full sunshine until you find out what light each plant needs.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you are fighting your Aloe vera plant for flowers, you are not alone. Most people struggle to get their Aloe vera plants to bloom when growing them indoors. But their usual yellow or orange tubular flowers, grown high on long, elegant stems, are a rare sighting in households due to the inadequate sunlight they receive.
Aloe vera plants are built for the desert climate of Africa, where they receive large amounts of direct sunlight for a majority of the day. This large dose of bright light that Aloe veras are accustomed to does not translate smoothly to a household setting, where the location of the house and the plant may limit the amount of sunlight that reaches the plant.
Adjusting the Indoor Placement of Your Aloe Vera Plant
Due to the natural environment of the Aloe vera, the main trick is to give your houseplant as much light as possible. Indoor placement is key. Typically sitting on kitchen windowsills, the Aloe vera plant does not receive the sunlight it is used to or needs when raised indoors. You want to place your plant on a windowsill that receives a lot of direct sunlight, with nothing obstructing the plant’s line of sunlight or keeping it in the shade. At certain points in the day, some areas of your house also receive more light than others. Therefore, it is best to change the location of your plant throughout the day, allowing for it to follow the sun. The more exposure to sunlight, the better. During the summer months, you can also move your plant outside, as it is no longer in danger of freezing and an outdoor environment nicely mimics the high-sunlight desert conditions it needs to bloom.
Other Tricks for Getting Your Resistant Aloe to Bloom:
1. Wait for your Aloe Plant to Mature
You may be expecting too much from your newborn plant. Aloe veras tend to bloom only once they have reached maturity–a stage in their life that takes approximately 4 years to reach. If you have just begun caring for your plant, it is simply not ready. Have patience, and while you are waiting, take proper care of your Aloe vera by giving it the sunlight, water, and soil it needs to reach old age and bloom.
2. Know When To Expect Aloe Vera Flowers
Aloe vera plants do not have flowers year-round. They usually bloom annually in the early springtime, so time your expectations correctly. If you are concerned why your plant has no signs of buds in the winter, that is just because the timing is not yet right.
3. Fertilize or Repot Your Plant
A healthy Aloe vera plant is more likely to produce the bright flowers you are looking for. To be healthy, an Aloe vera needs soil that can provides it with adequate nutrients. By either giving your plant fertilizer to replenish the old soil’s vitamins and minerals or repotting it to give it new soil and a new supply of nutrients, you can keep your plant healthy and watch it grow.
Another way to encourage Aloe vera plants to bloom is by propagating them. The Aloe vera plant has bulbs that grow off of the main plant; you can and should remove them if you want a flowering plant. By taking away the additional bulbs, you give the main plant more energy to put into producing those tall, beautiful flowers.
If you succeed in getting your Aloe vera plant to bloom indoors, congratulations! Enjoy the rare beauty.
Aloe vera plants are built for the desert climate of Africa, where they receive large amounts of direct sunlight for a majority of the day. This large dose of bright light that Aloe veras are accustomed to does not translate smoothly to a household setting, where the location of the house and the plant may limit the amount of sunlight that reaches the plant.
Adjusting the Indoor Placement of Your Aloe Vera Plant
Due to the natural environment of the Aloe vera, the main trick is to give your houseplant as much light as possible. Indoor placement is key. Typically sitting on kitchen windowsills, the Aloe vera plant does not receive the sunlight it is used to or needs when raised indoors. You want to place your plant on a windowsill that receives a lot of direct sunlight, with nothing obstructing the plant’s line of sunlight or keeping it in the shade. At certain points in the day, some areas of your house also receive more light than others. Therefore, it is best to change the location of your plant throughout the day, allowing for it to follow the sun. The more exposure to sunlight, the better. During the summer months, you can also move your plant outside, as it is no longer in danger of freezing and an outdoor environment nicely mimics the high-sunlight desert conditions it needs to bloom.
Other Tricks for Getting Your Resistant Aloe to Bloom:
1. Wait for your Aloe Plant to Mature
You may be expecting too much from your newborn plant. Aloe veras tend to bloom only once they have reached maturity–a stage in their life that takes approximately 4 years to reach. If you have just begun caring for your plant, it is simply not ready. Have patience, and while you are waiting, take proper care of your Aloe vera by giving it the sunlight, water, and soil it needs to reach old age and bloom.
2. Know When To Expect Aloe Vera Flowers
Aloe vera plants do not have flowers year-round. They usually bloom annually in the early springtime, so time your expectations correctly. If you are concerned why your plant has no signs of buds in the winter, that is just because the timing is not yet right.
3. Fertilize or Repot Your Plant
A healthy Aloe vera plant is more likely to produce the bright flowers you are looking for. To be healthy, an Aloe vera needs soil that can provides it with adequate nutrients. By either giving your plant fertilizer to replenish the old soil’s vitamins and minerals or repotting it to give it new soil and a new supply of nutrients, you can keep your plant healthy and watch it grow.
Another way to encourage Aloe vera plants to bloom is by propagating them. The Aloe vera plant has bulbs that grow off of the main plant; you can and should remove them if you want a flowering plant. By taking away the additional bulbs, you give the main plant more energy to put into producing those tall, beautiful flowers.
If you succeed in getting your Aloe vera plant to bloom indoors, congratulations! Enjoy the rare beauty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Peperomia is a relatively easy, compact, and attractive little plant to grow. They are neither as striking as Begonias nor as hardy as Dracaena, which may account for their relatively low profile in the world of houseplants. But these plants have all the features we look for in houseplants: variability, interesting leaves, and tolerance for a relatively wide range of conditions. Although it may be tempting to think of Peperomia as succulents, due to their thick, slightly succulent leaves, that would be a mistake because they generally prefer higher humidity and more water than most succulents. In fact, these plants are native to South American rain forests, where they grow quite happily in the loamy, dappled light, cool understory of the rain forest.
Growing Conditions
Light: Peperomia do well in light to moderate light, such as found in a northern or east-facing window. They can be easily grown under fluorescent lights.
Water: Keep the soil moist during the growing season and provide relatively high humidity through spraying or by setting the pot in a gravel tray.
Temperature: Average. Peperomia do well in the relatively cool environment of most homes (although they dislike the dry). Aim for 65˚F to 75˚F (18˚C to 24˚C).
Soil: A loose, well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize biweekly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer or use controlled-release fertilizer pellets at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Peperomia thrives when slightly pot-bound, so don’t over pot them. Repot plants in spring, especially to refresh the existing soil, but place either back into the same size container after root-pruning or go up only one pot size. The largest Peperomia remain relatively small, so they will never grow into large specimen plants.
Propagation
Most Peperomia species can be relatively easily propagated from leaf cuttings, similar to the way African violets are propagated. Remove large leaves with their stalks (petioles) and bury in seedling starting soil. Use of a rooting hormone can increase odds of success. Place the cutting in a warm, bright place until new growth emerges.
Grower’s Tips
Peperomia are not particularly hard plants to grow, and their small size and delicate leaves make them perfect for desktops and dish gardens. They will rarely overtake their neighbors or shade them out. In short, they are perfectly mannered and attractive little plants. The biggest problem facing Peperomia are usually related to watering. They like steadily moist soil, but can be very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatered Peperomia tend to wilt (paradoxically) or have raised, scab-like protrusions on their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your plant loses a few bottom leaves, but massive leaf-drop is usually due to a temperature change or fertilizer problem. Lastly, Peperomia are susceptible to mealybugs, so keep an eye out for cottony white masses on the stems or undersides of leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Peperomia do well in light to moderate light, such as found in a northern or east-facing window. They can be easily grown under fluorescent lights.
Water: Keep the soil moist during the growing season and provide relatively high humidity through spraying or by setting the pot in a gravel tray.
Temperature: Average. Peperomia do well in the relatively cool environment of most homes (although they dislike the dry). Aim for 65˚F to 75˚F (18˚C to 24˚C).
Soil: A loose, well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize biweekly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer or use controlled-release fertilizer pellets at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Peperomia thrives when slightly pot-bound, so don’t over pot them. Repot plants in spring, especially to refresh the existing soil, but place either back into the same size container after root-pruning or go up only one pot size. The largest Peperomia remain relatively small, so they will never grow into large specimen plants.
Propagation
Most Peperomia species can be relatively easily propagated from leaf cuttings, similar to the way African violets are propagated. Remove large leaves with their stalks (petioles) and bury in seedling starting soil. Use of a rooting hormone can increase odds of success. Place the cutting in a warm, bright place until new growth emerges.
Grower’s Tips
Peperomia are not particularly hard plants to grow, and their small size and delicate leaves make them perfect for desktops and dish gardens. They will rarely overtake their neighbors or shade them out. In short, they are perfectly mannered and attractive little plants. The biggest problem facing Peperomia are usually related to watering. They like steadily moist soil, but can be very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatered Peperomia tend to wilt (paradoxically) or have raised, scab-like protrusions on their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your plant loses a few bottom leaves, but massive leaf-drop is usually due to a temperature change or fertilizer problem. Lastly, Peperomia are susceptible to mealybugs, so keep an eye out for cottony white masses on the stems or undersides of leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Zones
Hardy succulents are hardy zone 3-9 unless otherwise labeled. Plants shipped in early spring are dormant. They will appear dull in color and have some dry edges. This is normal and when placed in sunlight they will intensify in color. Sempervivums change color with the seasons and each variety has its own most colorful time of the year.
Light
Most varieties need at least half a day to a full day of sunlight. In extremely hot areas some afternoon shade is recommended.
Planting
Remove plants from their pots and plant making sure the soil level remains the same depth on the plant. Once established, your succulents will benefit from a layer of pebbles or pea gravel spread on the soil around the plant. This is also very decorative.
Soil
Succulents need good draining soil. When planting in the garden, make sure the area drains well and is not in a low spot that would stay wet. For container planting you can purchase cactus soil or incorporate sand, gravel or volcanic rock for better drainage. The container you are planting in should have a drainage hole or put crushed rock on the bottom before your planting medium.
Watering
After planting, water in well and allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Succulents don’t like to have wet feet. When you do water, water thoroughly.
Fertilizer
Most succulents need very little fertilizer. Watering with a well balanced fertilizer once a month will be all they need.
Flowering
Sedum all have different bloom times and colors ranging from pink, red and yellow. Sempervivums will bloom after the second or third year. A flower stalk will shoot up from the center of the main rosette with a cluster of flowers. After the flower dies, gently twist off the stalk. The main rosette has put on new offsets that will fill in.
Uses
The planting possibilities using succulents are endless. The different colors, textures and habits make the most interesting containers and troughs. Succulents make beautiful rock garden plants. With a wide variety of bloom times there is always something with color.
Hardy succulents are hardy zone 3-9 unless otherwise labeled. Plants shipped in early spring are dormant. They will appear dull in color and have some dry edges. This is normal and when placed in sunlight they will intensify in color. Sempervivums change color with the seasons and each variety has its own most colorful time of the year.
Light
Most varieties need at least half a day to a full day of sunlight. In extremely hot areas some afternoon shade is recommended.
Planting
Remove plants from their pots and plant making sure the soil level remains the same depth on the plant. Once established, your succulents will benefit from a layer of pebbles or pea gravel spread on the soil around the plant. This is also very decorative.
Soil
Succulents need good draining soil. When planting in the garden, make sure the area drains well and is not in a low spot that would stay wet. For container planting you can purchase cactus soil or incorporate sand, gravel or volcanic rock for better drainage. The container you are planting in should have a drainage hole or put crushed rock on the bottom before your planting medium.
Watering
After planting, water in well and allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Succulents don’t like to have wet feet. When you do water, water thoroughly.
Fertilizer
Most succulents need very little fertilizer. Watering with a well balanced fertilizer once a month will be all they need.
Flowering
Sedum all have different bloom times and colors ranging from pink, red and yellow. Sempervivums will bloom after the second or third year. A flower stalk will shoot up from the center of the main rosette with a cluster of flowers. After the flower dies, gently twist off the stalk. The main rosette has put on new offsets that will fill in.
Uses
The planting possibilities using succulents are endless. The different colors, textures and habits make the most interesting containers and troughs. Succulents make beautiful rock garden plants. With a wide variety of bloom times there is always something with color.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The genus Anacampseros was recently (1994) split into Anacampseros and Avonia from South Africa, and Grahamia from the Americas and Australia. Many plant labels and plant nurseries have not yet caught up with this change, so all these plants may still be seen labelled as Anacampseros.
Avonia is reserved for the species with tiny leaves hidden by papery stipules which form a protective layer along the stems. These bright white scales reflect a proportion of the solar radiation and protect the leaves from the noon-day sun. The small, solitary, greenish-white flowers are produced on the tips of the stems. The roots form a small caudex.
Growing Conditions
Light: Avonia do well in light shade to full sun. High levels of light are needed to flower and for good plant development.
Water: Water normally in the growing season from March to October, keep dry in winter.
Temperature: It is quite frost resistant if kept dry, hardy as low as 23°F (-5°C).
Soil: Since roots are quite shallow, use a cactus mix or add extra perlite or pumice to regular soil potting soil. A gritty, very free-draining compost is suitable, and clay pots help the plants to dry out between watering. For best results, use a shallow pot, and only use the smallest diameter pot that will accommodate the plant.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium liquid fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Seed that germinate at 59°F to 70°F (15°C to 21°C). The seeds germinate very quickly. In cultivation the young Avonia plants develop much quicker than in their natural surroundings, where they don’t get ample water supply. Generally they are not easy to raise from seed as too much water kills them immediately, which also happens when they are not watered at all.
Grower’s Tips
Although regarded as a choice and difficult plant, in cultivation it is relatively easy. Avonia grow very slowly and requires careful cultivation. Clustering in cultivation, if grown correctly, it will reward the grower with generous displays of tiny flowers. Avonia grow well at moderate to cooler temperatures in partial sun. Bright light enhances leaf colors and makes for a compact plant. They enjoy a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering depending on the species. A collection of these plants can be housed in quite a small space.
Avonia is reserved for the species with tiny leaves hidden by papery stipules which form a protective layer along the stems. These bright white scales reflect a proportion of the solar radiation and protect the leaves from the noon-day sun. The small, solitary, greenish-white flowers are produced on the tips of the stems. The roots form a small caudex.
Growing Conditions
Light: Avonia do well in light shade to full sun. High levels of light are needed to flower and for good plant development.
Water: Water normally in the growing season from March to October, keep dry in winter.
Temperature: It is quite frost resistant if kept dry, hardy as low as 23°F (-5°C).
Soil: Since roots are quite shallow, use a cactus mix or add extra perlite or pumice to regular soil potting soil. A gritty, very free-draining compost is suitable, and clay pots help the plants to dry out between watering. For best results, use a shallow pot, and only use the smallest diameter pot that will accommodate the plant.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium liquid fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Seed that germinate at 59°F to 70°F (15°C to 21°C). The seeds germinate very quickly. In cultivation the young Avonia plants develop much quicker than in their natural surroundings, where they don’t get ample water supply. Generally they are not easy to raise from seed as too much water kills them immediately, which also happens when they are not watered at all.
Grower’s Tips
Although regarded as a choice and difficult plant, in cultivation it is relatively easy. Avonia grow very slowly and requires careful cultivation. Clustering in cultivation, if grown correctly, it will reward the grower with generous displays of tiny flowers. Avonia grow well at moderate to cooler temperatures in partial sun. Bright light enhances leaf colors and makes for a compact plant. They enjoy a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering depending on the species. A collection of these plants can be housed in quite a small space.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
People have been growing Aloe vera for literally thousands of years. It is one of the most widely used medicinal plants on the planet. If you are wondering, “How can I grow an aloe plant?” We are here to tell you that taking care of an Aloe Vera plant in your home is easy.
Keep reading to learn more about how to grow and care for an Aloe Vera plant.
Growing Conditions
The first step in Aloe Vera care is to realize that this plant is a succulent. Like cacti, succulents do best in dry conditions. When growing Aloe Vera plants, plant them in a cactus potting soil mix or a regular potting soil that has been amended with additional perlite or building sand. Also, make sure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. It cannot tolerate standing water.
One important thing in the care of Aloe Vera houseplants is that they have proper light. They need bright light, so they do best in south- or west-facing windows.
General Care
Another important part of how to grow an Aloe Vera is to water the plant properly. The soil should be allowed to go completely dry before being watered. When the plant is watered, the soil should be thoroughly drenched, but the water should be allowed to drain freely from the soil. The most common reason an Aloe Vera dies is that the owners water too often or do not allow the water to drain. Do not make this mistake when taking care of Aloe houseplants.You can fertilize your Aloe Vera, but Aloes do not need to be fertilized. If you decide to add fertilizing to part of your Aloe Vera plant care routine, plants should be fertilized once a year in the spring. You can use a phosphorus-heavy water-based fertilizer at half strength.
Growing Aloe Vera houseplants is not only easy but can also provide your family with a plant that can help treat minor burns and rashes. Now that you know a little more about how to care for an Aloe Vera plant, you need never be without this lovely and helpful plant.
Keep reading to learn more about how to grow and care for an Aloe Vera plant.
Growing Conditions
The first step in Aloe Vera care is to realize that this plant is a succulent. Like cacti, succulents do best in dry conditions. When growing Aloe Vera plants, plant them in a cactus potting soil mix or a regular potting soil that has been amended with additional perlite or building sand. Also, make sure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. It cannot tolerate standing water.
One important thing in the care of Aloe Vera houseplants is that they have proper light. They need bright light, so they do best in south- or west-facing windows.
General Care
Another important part of how to grow an Aloe Vera is to water the plant properly. The soil should be allowed to go completely dry before being watered. When the plant is watered, the soil should be thoroughly drenched, but the water should be allowed to drain freely from the soil. The most common reason an Aloe Vera dies is that the owners water too often or do not allow the water to drain. Do not make this mistake when taking care of Aloe houseplants.You can fertilize your Aloe Vera, but Aloes do not need to be fertilized. If you decide to add fertilizing to part of your Aloe Vera plant care routine, plants should be fertilized once a year in the spring. You can use a phosphorus-heavy water-based fertilizer at half strength.
Growing Aloe Vera houseplants is not only easy but can also provide your family with a plant that can help treat minor burns and rashes. Now that you know a little more about how to care for an Aloe Vera plant, you need never be without this lovely and helpful plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Butterwort plants (Pinguicula) are tiny plants that can go unrecognized until they bloom. The leaves are a soft greenish-yellow color, which probably led to the name. It could also be from the slightly greasy or “buttery” feel of the leaves. The plant forms low rosettes and blooms in spring with yellow, pink, purple or white flowers.
Site conditions must be considered when learning how to grow Butterworts. They like alkaline soil where nutrients are poor and the site is warm and moist to boggy. The plant’s leaves have a coating of an insect-trapping resin. The prey of choice for these tiny plants is gnats, which give up valuable nitrogen for the plant to use.
Growing Conditions
You can grow Butterwort plants outside in temperate to warm zones or in a pot as annuals. In USDA zones 10 and 11, the plants will persist as perennials and grow new rosettes, multiplying the plant’s diminutive size. The best soil for container plants is a mix of sphagnum moss with equal parts vermiculite or sand. Plants situated outdoors will do best in moist soil or even near water.
Butterworts thrive in sun to partial shade. The plants must never dry out, though potted plants should also have good drainage. They must experience a dormancy period to regrow and bloom each spring. Cut back the dead leaves in late winter or early spring to encourage the new growth.
General Care
The Butterwort plant is fairly self sufficient. It should not be grown indoors unless you have a gnat problem, but outside it can gather its own food. The plant attracts tiny insects, which get stuck in the slimy, slick coating on the leaves. Their struggle encourages the release of a digestive enzyme. Provided the plant is in correct light, temperature and moist conditions, the little Butterwort will thrive. It is not bothered by many diseases or pests. The most important consideration for Butterwort care is the quality and frequency of water. The plant cannot dry out or it may die. The type of water is crucial, however, as the plant is sensitive to certain minerals and concentrations of salt. Use rainwater if possible, otherwise purchase distilled water.
Site conditions must be considered when learning how to grow Butterworts. They like alkaline soil where nutrients are poor and the site is warm and moist to boggy. The plant’s leaves have a coating of an insect-trapping resin. The prey of choice for these tiny plants is gnats, which give up valuable nitrogen for the plant to use.
Growing Conditions
You can grow Butterwort plants outside in temperate to warm zones or in a pot as annuals. In USDA zones 10 and 11, the plants will persist as perennials and grow new rosettes, multiplying the plant’s diminutive size. The best soil for container plants is a mix of sphagnum moss with equal parts vermiculite or sand. Plants situated outdoors will do best in moist soil or even near water.
Butterworts thrive in sun to partial shade. The plants must never dry out, though potted plants should also have good drainage. They must experience a dormancy period to regrow and bloom each spring. Cut back the dead leaves in late winter or early spring to encourage the new growth.
General Care
The Butterwort plant is fairly self sufficient. It should not be grown indoors unless you have a gnat problem, but outside it can gather its own food. The plant attracts tiny insects, which get stuck in the slimy, slick coating on the leaves. Their struggle encourages the release of a digestive enzyme. Provided the plant is in correct light, temperature and moist conditions, the little Butterwort will thrive. It is not bothered by many diseases or pests. The most important consideration for Butterwort care is the quality and frequency of water. The plant cannot dry out or it may die. The type of water is crucial, however, as the plant is sensitive to certain minerals and concentrations of salt. Use rainwater if possible, otherwise purchase distilled water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Many people prefer succulent plants for outdoor garden and indoor decoration. For those places which experiences dry and hot weather, these plants can be excellent for growing in those areas. Many people have started growing succulents indoors because they don’t require much sunlight and can grow well indoors.
Maintenance of these plants are very easy, especially when grown indoors, the succulents in pots won’t be a lot of trouble unlike other indoor plants. The ones that grown in pots will remain in a perfect size because of the smaller place they will be getting from the container, however if grown in flower beds outside, their size will be much more, however they may require more water since they will be under direct sunlight. If you are a person who enjoy care-free living or are busy most of the time and at the same time love having plants indoors then growing succulents in containers is the best option for you. These plants may even produce flowers, which could be your indoor fresh flower bouquet in your house.
Some of the most common succulent houseplants are Burro’s Tail, Christmas Cactus, Crown of Thorns, Jade Plant, Panda Plant, Snake Plant, and many more. What many people don’t know is that how to plant succulents indoors? Planting these amazing plants indoors is very easy. With proper guidance and research you can grow some healthy and beautiful succulents indoors in different containers and pots. You can line them by your stairs indoors, in your kitchen, living room and other places you like. Unlike cacti, other succulents may have a variety of colors and when it is the blooming season; your interior will look pretty with all the flowers around. Here are 10 tips for growing indoor succulents:
1. The best place for keeping your succulent plants indoors is somewhere near the window, especially on the eastern side. The sun rises from the east, in this period the intensity of the rays are less and so will be excellent for the plants. Keep in mind that excessive sunlight can cause yellow spots on your plant which is also known as the sunburns.
2. Many people would think that they have to provide a lot of water to the succulents. Just like any plant, watering succulents should be kept to normal range. Between the watering periods the soil should be dry so that they can grow well, moreover, during the winter season they shouldn’t be watered much (only once a week).
3. Without any doubt, the glass containers or pots look very pretty, however they are not recommended for planting the succulents. This is because the glass container won’t be able to drain water or let it evaporate, however the clay pots or containers can help the moisture to evaporate or excessive water to drain. Succulents don’t like sitting in soggy or damp soil, they just require normal moisture content or water.
4. There is hardly a chance you may get bugs in your small indoor plants, but if by chance you do, avoid using the chemical because they are kept indoors can be hazardous to your health. Make a solution of diluted alcohol, water and dish soap liquid to kill the bugs. Bugs are usually attracted to those succulents whose soil is moist and soggy.
5. Add fertilizer to the indoor succulent plants only once in a year.
6. Many people don’t know how to grow succulents indoors and what type of soil to use. Unlike other plants they don’t use the same soil. The soil needed for the succulents should be well draining and porous, 70% of sand and 30% of soil is the best combination for them.
7. If you have kept the succulent plant in a place which doesn’t receive any sun light, then you might have to move your plants on at least weekly basis outside so that they can get some sunlight to grow better.
8. Avoid using chemical based liquid fertilizers and sprays on the succulent plants kept indoors. Not only it will ruin the plant but also be hazardous for you.
9. You can trim succulent plants only once in a year, if kept in small pot or containers, they might not even need any trimming.
10. Succulent are dessert plants and so can withstand both the hot and cold temperature, you don’t have to worry about the season change.
Maintenance of these plants are very easy, especially when grown indoors, the succulents in pots won’t be a lot of trouble unlike other indoor plants. The ones that grown in pots will remain in a perfect size because of the smaller place they will be getting from the container, however if grown in flower beds outside, their size will be much more, however they may require more water since they will be under direct sunlight. If you are a person who enjoy care-free living or are busy most of the time and at the same time love having plants indoors then growing succulents in containers is the best option for you. These plants may even produce flowers, which could be your indoor fresh flower bouquet in your house.
Some of the most common succulent houseplants are Burro’s Tail, Christmas Cactus, Crown of Thorns, Jade Plant, Panda Plant, Snake Plant, and many more. What many people don’t know is that how to plant succulents indoors? Planting these amazing plants indoors is very easy. With proper guidance and research you can grow some healthy and beautiful succulents indoors in different containers and pots. You can line them by your stairs indoors, in your kitchen, living room and other places you like. Unlike cacti, other succulents may have a variety of colors and when it is the blooming season; your interior will look pretty with all the flowers around. Here are 10 tips for growing indoor succulents:
1. The best place for keeping your succulent plants indoors is somewhere near the window, especially on the eastern side. The sun rises from the east, in this period the intensity of the rays are less and so will be excellent for the plants. Keep in mind that excessive sunlight can cause yellow spots on your plant which is also known as the sunburns.
2. Many people would think that they have to provide a lot of water to the succulents. Just like any plant, watering succulents should be kept to normal range. Between the watering periods the soil should be dry so that they can grow well, moreover, during the winter season they shouldn’t be watered much (only once a week).
3. Without any doubt, the glass containers or pots look very pretty, however they are not recommended for planting the succulents. This is because the glass container won’t be able to drain water or let it evaporate, however the clay pots or containers can help the moisture to evaporate or excessive water to drain. Succulents don’t like sitting in soggy or damp soil, they just require normal moisture content or water.
4. There is hardly a chance you may get bugs in your small indoor plants, but if by chance you do, avoid using the chemical because they are kept indoors can be hazardous to your health. Make a solution of diluted alcohol, water and dish soap liquid to kill the bugs. Bugs are usually attracted to those succulents whose soil is moist and soggy.
5. Add fertilizer to the indoor succulent plants only once in a year.
6. Many people don’t know how to grow succulents indoors and what type of soil to use. Unlike other plants they don’t use the same soil. The soil needed for the succulents should be well draining and porous, 70% of sand and 30% of soil is the best combination for them.
7. If you have kept the succulent plant in a place which doesn’t receive any sun light, then you might have to move your plants on at least weekly basis outside so that they can get some sunlight to grow better.
8. Avoid using chemical based liquid fertilizers and sprays on the succulent plants kept indoors. Not only it will ruin the plant but also be hazardous for you.
9. You can trim succulent plants only once in a year, if kept in small pot or containers, they might not even need any trimming.
10. Succulent are dessert plants and so can withstand both the hot and cold temperature, you don’t have to worry about the season change.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
There’s a lot to love about gardening with succulents. These attractive plants are drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, making succulents ideal for busy gardeners of all ages. Under the right growing conditions, these carefree plants rarely suffer from diseases or pests. To get you started, here are several helpful tips for growing succulents.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are basically plants that store water in their thick, fleshy stems and leaves. Included in this group of plants are cacti, Aloe and many other genera. Succulents come in a wide array of colors, shapes and textures.
Many succulents flower in different colors, but the plants are often valued most for their foliage. The leaves can be variegated and come in colors ranging from blue-gray and green to yellow, red and pink.
Raised Beds or Gardens
Succulents require excellent drainage. If you have a heavy clay soil, consider gardening with succulents in raised beds, which have plenty of coarse sand or pea gravel mixed with organic matter. Don’t mulch heavily with wood chips, as this could retain too much moisture in rainy areas.
Gardening with Succulents in Containers
Succulents grow well in containers, which makes it convenient for bringing the plants indoors during colder weather. Terracotta containers are excellent for gardening with succulents, because they provide good drainage.
When growing succulents in containers, use a fast-draining planting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Or, consider adding perlite to increase drainage in your potting soil.
Many succulents tend to be shallow rooted, so they grow well in shallow containers with drainage. Cover drain holes with fine screens so the soil doesn’t wash out.
Experiment with mixing succulents, with Agaves, Echeverias, Sedums and other drought-tolerant plants for a dramatic effect. Or, plant a single species in a pot to showcase its beauty.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are basically plants that store water in their thick, fleshy stems and leaves. Included in this group of plants are cacti, Aloe and many other genera. Succulents come in a wide array of colors, shapes and textures.
Many succulents flower in different colors, but the plants are often valued most for their foliage. The leaves can be variegated and come in colors ranging from blue-gray and green to yellow, red and pink.
Raised Beds or Gardens
Succulents require excellent drainage. If you have a heavy clay soil, consider gardening with succulents in raised beds, which have plenty of coarse sand or pea gravel mixed with organic matter. Don’t mulch heavily with wood chips, as this could retain too much moisture in rainy areas.
Gardening with Succulents in Containers
Succulents grow well in containers, which makes it convenient for bringing the plants indoors during colder weather. Terracotta containers are excellent for gardening with succulents, because they provide good drainage.
When growing succulents in containers, use a fast-draining planting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Or, consider adding perlite to increase drainage in your potting soil.
Many succulents tend to be shallow rooted, so they grow well in shallow containers with drainage. Cover drain holes with fine screens so the soil doesn’t wash out.
Experiment with mixing succulents, with Agaves, Echeverias, Sedums and other drought-tolerant plants for a dramatic effect. Or, plant a single species in a pot to showcase its beauty.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Eulychnia is a genus of candelabriform or arborescent cacti, comprising between 6 and 9 species depending on the authority. These relatively large plants which reach up to 23 feet (7 m) high can survive under very hot conditions—temperatures can reach up to 122 °F (50 °C). Furthermore, this breed of cacti can also survive in some of the driest places in the world such as the Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world.
The stems are covered with many long spines arranged on tuberculate ribs. The floral tubes are covered in spines, wool, scales, or all three and are round in shape and when the flower opens, resemble a ball that popped open on one side.
Eulychnia is not common in cultivation and only collectors with a specific interest in the genus seem to grow them.
Growing Conditions
Light: Eulychnia requires full sun or light shade to keep plant compact with strong colored spines. Tends to bronze in strong light, which encourages flowering and heavy spine production. Light shadow my be useful in the hottest summer days.
Water: It requires light but regular waterings in summer, but let the soil dry between waterings. Keep the soil dry in winter.
Temperature: Eulychnia need to be kept in a cool place during winter rest and are resistant to light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. They are hardy to 28 °F (-2 °C) in short periods.
Soil: Eulychnia likes very coarse mineral cactus mix soil, but can become too elongated if compost is too rich.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Propagation is from seed or cuttings.
Pests and Diseases
Eulychnia may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation.
The stems are covered with many long spines arranged on tuberculate ribs. The floral tubes are covered in spines, wool, scales, or all three and are round in shape and when the flower opens, resemble a ball that popped open on one side.
Eulychnia is not common in cultivation and only collectors with a specific interest in the genus seem to grow them.
Growing Conditions
Light: Eulychnia requires full sun or light shade to keep plant compact with strong colored spines. Tends to bronze in strong light, which encourages flowering and heavy spine production. Light shadow my be useful in the hottest summer days.
Water: It requires light but regular waterings in summer, but let the soil dry between waterings. Keep the soil dry in winter.
Temperature: Eulychnia need to be kept in a cool place during winter rest and are resistant to light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. They are hardy to 28 °F (-2 °C) in short periods.
Soil: Eulychnia likes very coarse mineral cactus mix soil, but can become too elongated if compost is too rich.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Propagation is from seed or cuttings.
Pests and Diseases
Eulychnia may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
It’s possible to grow succulents in pots without drainage holes because they require less water than other plants and you only need to water them occasionally. Their specialized stems and leaves store water for long periods. Classic Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum tectorum) make a suitable succulent plant for beginners and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Mix forms and colors of various succulent types to make a pleasing display.
The Root of the Problem
Few plants, including succulents, can survive their roots drowning in water. For plants to stay healthy, their roots need air. Overwatering causes a number of diseases and without taking steps to prevent wet roots, your succulents may succumb.
Scab is a disease caused by excess water. Symptoms include corky brown scabs appearing on the stems of the succulent. Some species of cactus are especially susceptible to scab. Decrease watering and increase light to fight scab.
Stem and root rot can kill overwatered succulents. Various soil fungi multiply in the presence of excess water. The plants wilt and a brown or black ring appears at the base of the stem, above the soil. If only the roots show disease, cut away rotted roots with a sharp knife and repot the plant in sterile soil. Wipe the blade between cuts with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to help prevent spreading the fungi.
Working With Containers That Don’t Drain
A few tricks help minimize the risk of diseases from wet soil. The main trick is to water the plant normally but after a few minutes, tip the planter sideways and drain out excess water.
Double potting helps overcome the problem of no drainage holes in a planter. Grow the succulent in a pot liner or smaller container that can sit inside the larger, nondraining container. Make at least four holes in the liner or small container if it doesn’t have them. Layer the bottom of the larger, outer planter with gravel.
After watering the plant, wait a few minutes for excess water to drip out of the smaller container. Lift the plant in the liner from the larger container and dump the excess water. After draining, place the liner or small planter back inside the larger one.
If the container doesn’t have drain holes, you’ll need to be more careful with watering. Water the container only enough to wet the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil. Allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. It should only need watering once every two weeks.
Potting Soil Choices
Succulents require soil that is loose and drains well. A cactus or succulent soil from the garden center works, or you can mix your own. When preparing the soil for a container, use a mixture that contains equal portions of sand and garden soil. If your budget allows, a better soil mixture is equal parts loam, sand, peat-moss and perlite. Aged compost can be substituted for loam.
Test the soil’s quality by moistening a handful of the mixture and trying to squeeze it into a ball. If it is the proper consistency for succulents, the soil will not become compacted but will fall apart.
Fertilize Lightly
Cacti only require fertilizer once or twice each year, during spring and summer, while other succulents should be fertilized three to four times during the summer. Choose a houseplant fertilizer such as 3-7-7 that has more phosphorus than nitrogen.
Dilute the mixture to one-half the standard concentration recommended on the product label, so mix 5 to 10 drops in 1 quart of water instead of 10 to 20 drops. Check the instructions as rates vary by brand. Soak the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil around the plants completely. Use the fertilizer solution in place of a regular watering.
The Right Light
Succulents need the right amount of light to keep them healthy. Outdoors, place them in full sun or part shade. Indoors, placing the planter near a sunny window should provide enough light, but a cool white fluorescent tube is a good substitute if direct sunlight is lacking. Place the tube 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) above the plant for 14 to16 hours each day. Use a timer to help automate the process.
The Root of the Problem
Few plants, including succulents, can survive their roots drowning in water. For plants to stay healthy, their roots need air. Overwatering causes a number of diseases and without taking steps to prevent wet roots, your succulents may succumb.
Scab is a disease caused by excess water. Symptoms include corky brown scabs appearing on the stems of the succulent. Some species of cactus are especially susceptible to scab. Decrease watering and increase light to fight scab.
Stem and root rot can kill overwatered succulents. Various soil fungi multiply in the presence of excess water. The plants wilt and a brown or black ring appears at the base of the stem, above the soil. If only the roots show disease, cut away rotted roots with a sharp knife and repot the plant in sterile soil. Wipe the blade between cuts with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to help prevent spreading the fungi.
Working With Containers That Don’t Drain
A few tricks help minimize the risk of diseases from wet soil. The main trick is to water the plant normally but after a few minutes, tip the planter sideways and drain out excess water.
Double potting helps overcome the problem of no drainage holes in a planter. Grow the succulent in a pot liner or smaller container that can sit inside the larger, nondraining container. Make at least four holes in the liner or small container if it doesn’t have them. Layer the bottom of the larger, outer planter with gravel.
After watering the plant, wait a few minutes for excess water to drip out of the smaller container. Lift the plant in the liner from the larger container and dump the excess water. After draining, place the liner or small planter back inside the larger one.
If the container doesn’t have drain holes, you’ll need to be more careful with watering. Water the container only enough to wet the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil. Allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. It should only need watering once every two weeks.
Potting Soil Choices
Succulents require soil that is loose and drains well. A cactus or succulent soil from the garden center works, or you can mix your own. When preparing the soil for a container, use a mixture that contains equal portions of sand and garden soil. If your budget allows, a better soil mixture is equal parts loam, sand, peat-moss and perlite. Aged compost can be substituted for loam.
Test the soil’s quality by moistening a handful of the mixture and trying to squeeze it into a ball. If it is the proper consistency for succulents, the soil will not become compacted but will fall apart.
Fertilize Lightly
Cacti only require fertilizer once or twice each year, during spring and summer, while other succulents should be fertilized three to four times during the summer. Choose a houseplant fertilizer such as 3-7-7 that has more phosphorus than nitrogen.
Dilute the mixture to one-half the standard concentration recommended on the product label, so mix 5 to 10 drops in 1 quart of water instead of 10 to 20 drops. Check the instructions as rates vary by brand. Soak the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil around the plants completely. Use the fertilizer solution in place of a regular watering.
The Right Light
Succulents need the right amount of light to keep them healthy. Outdoors, place them in full sun or part shade. Indoors, placing the planter near a sunny window should provide enough light, but a cool white fluorescent tube is a good substitute if direct sunlight is lacking. Place the tube 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) above the plant for 14 to16 hours each day. Use a timer to help automate the process.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Sedum morganianum also known as Donkey’s Tailis, is a popular and easy-to-grow trailing succulent with rows of fleshy, tear-dropped shaped leaves. It may also be called Burro’s Tail, Lamb’s Tail, or Horse’s Tail. These plants make excellent hanging subjects, or they can be used as trailers in small pots. A mature specimen might have branches up to 2 feet (60 cm) long, with dozens of grey-green, plump leaves lined up like droplets. Flowers readily emerge in late summer in hanging clusters of small blossoms in red, yellow or white.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Donkey’s Tail is perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Donkey’s Tail prefers average summer temps (65ºF to 70ºF/18ºC to 21ºC). In winter, can survive at 40ºF (5ºC), but prefers it slightly warmer.
Soil: A well-drained succulent potting soil, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed Donkey’s Tail with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a Donkey’s Tail, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Propagation
By seed or by cuttings. Individual leaves can be sprouted by placing them into a succulent or cactus potting soil, then covering the dish until they sprout. Large Donkey’s Tail plants can also be divided during repotting.
Grower’s Tips
Donkey’s Tails are pretty forgiving plants—if you forget to water them once or twice, they’ll probably be just fine. If you want your plant to really thrive, make sure to provide strong light, fertilizer during the growing season, and adequate moisture during the growing season. Too often, these are left to fend for themselves, simply because they can. But with a little effort, the plant can be a remarkable specimen.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Donkey’s Tail is perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Donkey’s Tail prefers average summer temps (65ºF to 70ºF/18ºC to 21ºC). In winter, can survive at 40ºF (5ºC), but prefers it slightly warmer.
Soil: A well-drained succulent potting soil, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed Donkey’s Tail with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a Donkey’s Tail, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Propagation
By seed or by cuttings. Individual leaves can be sprouted by placing them into a succulent or cactus potting soil, then covering the dish until they sprout. Large Donkey’s Tail plants can also be divided during repotting.
Grower’s Tips
Donkey’s Tails are pretty forgiving plants—if you forget to water them once or twice, they’ll probably be just fine. If you want your plant to really thrive, make sure to provide strong light, fertilizer during the growing season, and adequate moisture during the growing season. Too often, these are left to fend for themselves, simply because they can. But with a little effort, the plant can be a remarkable specimen.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you want beautiful yards that can survive extreme drought conditions, it’s time you become familiar with succulent gardening.
What are succulents?
Succulents are plants with a highly specialized anatomy that allows them to withstand prolonged drought conditions. They’re the camels of the plant world and, like camels, they store water for later use. If you see a plant with fleshy stems, roots, or leaves, it’s most likely a succulent.
Leaf Succulents
This is probably the succulent most everyone can recognize. Examples include Aloe, Agave, and Jade Plant.
Stem Succulents
The type of succulent stores large amounts of water in their stems, which are usually round, columnar, or sword-like.
Root Succulents
Some succulents store their water underground in large tuberous roots.
How to Care for Succulents
All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. This means some succulents like dry heat, and others do best in moist shade of the jungle. It’s a myth that cacti and succulents require little to no care.
Those succulents that prefer warm heat do best outdoors in full sun, while the jungle succulents love life under a shady tree or patio. All succulents and cacti require feeding during the growing season, just like every other plant. They need to be pruned or split when they grow too big. There is a succulent for almost every region of the world, even areas with snow, so don’t worry that there isn’t one you can grow in your area.
How to Display Succulents
Succulents do very well in containers, so if you have limited space or live in an apartment with a small balcony, you’re in luck! Terracotta containers are ideal for tall plants. The weight of the terracotta balances top-heavy plants, which means you won’t come home to a toppled succulent.
Line a woven basket with plastic or an old dish and you have the perfect vessel for spiny and smooth skinned succulents.
Milky white succulents—or plants with white spines—look nice in metal containers. Just make sure the container is made of a metal that won’t corrode. Stainless steel is a good option.
Don’t limit yourself to traditional containers. These plants are perfect to plant in unique found objects.
What are succulents?
Succulents are plants with a highly specialized anatomy that allows them to withstand prolonged drought conditions. They’re the camels of the plant world and, like camels, they store water for later use. If you see a plant with fleshy stems, roots, or leaves, it’s most likely a succulent.
Leaf Succulents
This is probably the succulent most everyone can recognize. Examples include Aloe, Agave, and Jade Plant.
Stem Succulents
The type of succulent stores large amounts of water in their stems, which are usually round, columnar, or sword-like.
Root Succulents
Some succulents store their water underground in large tuberous roots.
How to Care for Succulents
All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. This means some succulents like dry heat, and others do best in moist shade of the jungle. It’s a myth that cacti and succulents require little to no care.
Those succulents that prefer warm heat do best outdoors in full sun, while the jungle succulents love life under a shady tree or patio. All succulents and cacti require feeding during the growing season, just like every other plant. They need to be pruned or split when they grow too big. There is a succulent for almost every region of the world, even areas with snow, so don’t worry that there isn’t one you can grow in your area.
How to Display Succulents
Succulents do very well in containers, so if you have limited space or live in an apartment with a small balcony, you’re in luck! Terracotta containers are ideal for tall plants. The weight of the terracotta balances top-heavy plants, which means you won’t come home to a toppled succulent.
Line a woven basket with plastic or an old dish and you have the perfect vessel for spiny and smooth skinned succulents.
Milky white succulents—or plants with white spines—look nice in metal containers. Just make sure the container is made of a metal that won’t corrode. Stainless steel is a good option.
Don’t limit yourself to traditional containers. These plants are perfect to plant in unique found objects.
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