文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulent plants are as lovely as they are easy to grow. The best part is that its leaves and stem provide an endless number of identical plants through simple propagation. Growing succulents from clippings is both fun and rewarding. They grow quickly and with minimal effort, and the resulting plants make great gifts and lively home decor. A well-clipped leaf or stem is practically all a gardener needs to grow an entirely new succulent with success.
Propagating from a Leaf Clipping
It is easy to remove a succulent leaf from a healthy plant without disrupting its appearance or hindering its growth. Also, when a succulent has grown “leggy,” with a long stem that some growers dislike, they can separate each of the plant’s many leaves and grow them into new plants.
Prepare the Soil
Prepare a new pot or tray of cactus or succulent soil. Cactus or succulent soil must provide good drainage. A mixture of equal parts cactus potting soil and perlite works well. It need not be more than a couple inches deep for the beginning stage. An aluminum baking pan works well for propagating several new plants at once.
Clip or Pluck a Leaf
Gardeners can pluck succulent leaves from an existing plant by hand or cut them with a metal tool. A sharp knife, razor blade, or pruning shears work well. It is important to sterilize a metal tool first to prevent infection in the plant or leaf. Cut as close to the stem as possible, and take care not to bruise the leaf or stem. To pluck by hand, rock the leaf gently from side to side until it comes loose. Some leaves loosen very easily, which makes hand-plucking a popular method.
Let the Leaves Dry
Lay the fresh leaf cuttings down flat on the surface of the soil mix, and place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Let the leaves dry out for a few days before adding any water. This is an important step because watering them immediately can easily cause them to rot. It also allows time for the “wound” from cutting to callous over, preventing disease from sinking in.
Let Roots Develop
Once they have sufficiently dried and calloused, some people start moistening the soil regularly, while others give the leaves more time to grow on their own. In humid environments, the leaves may not require any water at all. In a dry climate or a house with dry air conditioning, it is a good idea to water sparingly but consistently. An effective method is to add a sprinkle of water to the pot whenever the soil has completely dried out. After anywhere from a few weeks to a month, tiny roots, and possibly the leaves of a new baby plant, emerge from the cut end of the leaves.
Help the Roots Find the Soil
Sometimes the roots grow down into the soil on their own, and sometimes they grow into the air and need a little help. In the latter situation, form a small divot in the soil, and gently cover the roots with a tiny layer of soil. Use a spray bottle to add a light spritz of water about once a week from this point.
Separate and Enjoy
Within about a month or so, gardeners should see new growth on the planted cutting. At this point, it is safe to place each in its own pot or mix them into an arrangement for a garden setting. Once a succulent reaches maturity, it only needs watering once every few weeks.
Propagating from a Stem
When a succulent plant gets leggy from lack of light, an easy method for salvaging the plant is to “behead” it and propagate new plants both from the head and the stem. This process is identical to propagating from leaf cuttings.
Cut the rosette off the top with a sterile instrument, and let the cutting dry and callous. Water sparingly until roots emerge, and then simply let nature take its course. The remaining stem should grow new plantlets on its own. Growers can then cut and propagate these as well.
Propagating from a Leaf Clipping
It is easy to remove a succulent leaf from a healthy plant without disrupting its appearance or hindering its growth. Also, when a succulent has grown “leggy,” with a long stem that some growers dislike, they can separate each of the plant’s many leaves and grow them into new plants.
Prepare the Soil
Prepare a new pot or tray of cactus or succulent soil. Cactus or succulent soil must provide good drainage. A mixture of equal parts cactus potting soil and perlite works well. It need not be more than a couple inches deep for the beginning stage. An aluminum baking pan works well for propagating several new plants at once.
Clip or Pluck a Leaf
Gardeners can pluck succulent leaves from an existing plant by hand or cut them with a metal tool. A sharp knife, razor blade, or pruning shears work well. It is important to sterilize a metal tool first to prevent infection in the plant or leaf. Cut as close to the stem as possible, and take care not to bruise the leaf or stem. To pluck by hand, rock the leaf gently from side to side until it comes loose. Some leaves loosen very easily, which makes hand-plucking a popular method.
Let the Leaves Dry
Lay the fresh leaf cuttings down flat on the surface of the soil mix, and place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Let the leaves dry out for a few days before adding any water. This is an important step because watering them immediately can easily cause them to rot. It also allows time for the “wound” from cutting to callous over, preventing disease from sinking in.
Let Roots Develop
Once they have sufficiently dried and calloused, some people start moistening the soil regularly, while others give the leaves more time to grow on their own. In humid environments, the leaves may not require any water at all. In a dry climate or a house with dry air conditioning, it is a good idea to water sparingly but consistently. An effective method is to add a sprinkle of water to the pot whenever the soil has completely dried out. After anywhere from a few weeks to a month, tiny roots, and possibly the leaves of a new baby plant, emerge from the cut end of the leaves.
Help the Roots Find the Soil
Sometimes the roots grow down into the soil on their own, and sometimes they grow into the air and need a little help. In the latter situation, form a small divot in the soil, and gently cover the roots with a tiny layer of soil. Use a spray bottle to add a light spritz of water about once a week from this point.
Separate and Enjoy
Within about a month or so, gardeners should see new growth on the planted cutting. At this point, it is safe to place each in its own pot or mix them into an arrangement for a garden setting. Once a succulent reaches maturity, it only needs watering once every few weeks.
Propagating from a Stem
When a succulent plant gets leggy from lack of light, an easy method for salvaging the plant is to “behead” it and propagate new plants both from the head and the stem. This process is identical to propagating from leaf cuttings.
Cut the rosette off the top with a sterile instrument, and let the cutting dry and callous. Water sparingly until roots emerge, and then simply let nature take its course. The remaining stem should grow new plantlets on its own. Growers can then cut and propagate these as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Aeoniums are succulent plants, meaning they hold their nutrients and water supply in their leaves. They resemble flowers with no leaves because their foliage is so ornate. Dividing and propagating Aeonium is easy, if you know what steps to take and what to use.
Determine is Division is Necessary
Propagating Aeonium requires only a cutting, but when you’re both propagating and dividing an Aeonium, you will have to cut through the root as well. This is necessary when the Aeonium becomes too large for its potted or landscaped home. If it is, it’s time to divide it. If not, you can just choose to propagate a cutting in this same manner, but without cutting the root.
Take Out Aeonium
The first thing you should do is remove your Aeonium from its pot so you can take a cutting/division from it. Tip your plant on its side in its container and thump the bottom with your hand to loosen it. Then, pull the Aeonium out from its soil and shake the dirt loose.
Decide Division Point
To divide an Aeonium for propagation, pick a branch that seems to go right into the root. Begin the division at the crux of that stem and the rest of the root. Remember, you don’t want to cut through the entirety of the taproot, just the part that lines up with the rest of the stem.
Make Cut
Aeonium can handle being cut with metal if the shears or paring knife is sterilized and free of germs that can cause infection in the membranes of the plant. For this reason, you should boil your paring knife or dip it in alcohol to allow it to dry completely before using the knife on your Aeonium. Once you figure out the place where you intend to divide your Aeonium, place the sharp edge of the paring knife right at the crux of the plant, and cut down. Try to keep the cut straight. You should now have two pieces of Aeonium—one being the parent plant and one being the divided propagate.
Plant Cutting and Repot Parent
The last thing you need to do is to repot the parent plant and plant your Aeonium cutting. Do this just like propagating. Simply fill a pot with very well-drained succulent mix soil, dip the cutting and parent plant in rooting hormone and then put the Aeonium division into the mix. It’s the same for the parent plant, as well.
You can walk away from your Aeonium and check on it every few days or so to make sure it meets its environmental demands.
Determine is Division is Necessary
Propagating Aeonium requires only a cutting, but when you’re both propagating and dividing an Aeonium, you will have to cut through the root as well. This is necessary when the Aeonium becomes too large for its potted or landscaped home. If it is, it’s time to divide it. If not, you can just choose to propagate a cutting in this same manner, but without cutting the root.
Take Out Aeonium
The first thing you should do is remove your Aeonium from its pot so you can take a cutting/division from it. Tip your plant on its side in its container and thump the bottom with your hand to loosen it. Then, pull the Aeonium out from its soil and shake the dirt loose.
Decide Division Point
To divide an Aeonium for propagation, pick a branch that seems to go right into the root. Begin the division at the crux of that stem and the rest of the root. Remember, you don’t want to cut through the entirety of the taproot, just the part that lines up with the rest of the stem.
Make Cut
Aeonium can handle being cut with metal if the shears or paring knife is sterilized and free of germs that can cause infection in the membranes of the plant. For this reason, you should boil your paring knife or dip it in alcohol to allow it to dry completely before using the knife on your Aeonium. Once you figure out the place where you intend to divide your Aeonium, place the sharp edge of the paring knife right at the crux of the plant, and cut down. Try to keep the cut straight. You should now have two pieces of Aeonium—one being the parent plant and one being the divided propagate.
Plant Cutting and Repot Parent
The last thing you need to do is to repot the parent plant and plant your Aeonium cutting. Do this just like propagating. Simply fill a pot with very well-drained succulent mix soil, dip the cutting and parent plant in rooting hormone and then put the Aeonium division into the mix. It’s the same for the parent plant, as well.
You can walk away from your Aeonium and check on it every few days or so to make sure it meets its environmental demands.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Leaf cuttings are easier than they look, and it is very satisfying to see the young plants growing from the old leaf.
There are a number of succulents that can be propagated easily this way: Gasteria, Haworthia, Sansevieria and plants of the Crassulaceae family (Crassula, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum).
The easy way is just to get a leaf. Let the cut dry out in the shade for a day to a week, and just place them on top of the soil. Do not bury or semi-bury into the soil. The roots will find their way into the soil on their own. The soil should be well drained. If you need to improvise good growing soil, mix half well-rotted compost with half fine pumice or grit. You can expect to see a change in the leaf after 3-4 weeks and the young plants will take a season to develop into new plants.
The leaves need water at some point but only a light sprinkling. While “grown-up” succulents only need to be watered every week, or even once a month (depending on the season/heat), the leaves need to be watered constantly without being watered too much. Only water the soil after it is dry.
The temperature is an important factor. Succulents of the Crassulaceae family will root better in the fall, and in late winter/early spring. They will generally not root in the summer, but rather slowly dry out, or rot. The rule of thumb is that the leaf cuttings has chances to grow only if the parent plant is actively growing.
There are a number of succulents that can be propagated easily this way: Gasteria, Haworthia, Sansevieria and plants of the Crassulaceae family (Crassula, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum).
The easy way is just to get a leaf. Let the cut dry out in the shade for a day to a week, and just place them on top of the soil. Do not bury or semi-bury into the soil. The roots will find their way into the soil on their own. The soil should be well drained. If you need to improvise good growing soil, mix half well-rotted compost with half fine pumice or grit. You can expect to see a change in the leaf after 3-4 weeks and the young plants will take a season to develop into new plants.
The leaves need water at some point but only a light sprinkling. While “grown-up” succulents only need to be watered every week, or even once a month (depending on the season/heat), the leaves need to be watered constantly without being watered too much. Only water the soil after it is dry.
The temperature is an important factor. Succulents of the Crassulaceae family will root better in the fall, and in late winter/early spring. They will generally not root in the summer, but rather slowly dry out, or rot. The rule of thumb is that the leaf cuttings has chances to grow only if the parent plant is actively growing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A mature Echeveria plant, with waxy leaves resembling a rose, is a beautiful sight to behold. Although they originate from Mexico and Central America, these drought-tolerant plants can be grown from seed in many parts of the world. By following the process outlined below, advanced and beginner gardening enthusiasts can grow their own Echeveria plants from seed.
Preparing Seeds for Planting
Gardeners must ensure that they use fresh Echeveria seeds to grow their plants. Old seeds germinate rarely, and they often fail to grow well. Once gardeners have sourced suitable seeds, they mix these seeds with approximately twice the volume of fine sand and stir the mixture gently with a toothpick. Echeveria seeds are black and tiny, so the resulting mixture resembles a fine, multi-colored powder.
Planting Seeds
Successful Echeveria plants require plant pots with an average diameter measuring 4 inches (10 cm). These pots should be filled with a well-draining, soil-free potting mix. Gardeners purchase this potting mix from an online or brick and mortar retailer, or they can make their own. Each pot requires firm tapping against a bench or table to settle the potting mix. The gardener gathers a pinch of sand and seed mixture between finger and thumb and carefully sprinkles it over the soil, so that each pot has a sparse covering.
Germinating Seeds
To encourage germination, gardeners place their pots with the Echeveria seeds in a tray filled with water. This setup allows the soil in each pot to absorb water from the bottom. The tray is placed in a location with bright but indirect light at a temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). It is important to maintain the correct the temperature, as Echeveria seeds do not germinate above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). The pots can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the surrounding air humid. Every so often, gardeners add water to the tray to keep the potting mix moist.
How to Spot Signs of Germination
Around three weeks after the seeds are planted, tiny leaves should start to appear. Once this happens, gardeners remove the plastic covering to give the tiny seedlings access to fresh air. They must watch out for fungal infections, which are common in Echeveria seedlings during the first two months of growth. If any fungus is visible, gardeners should treat all their pots with fungicide.
How to Care
When the Echeveria seedlings have grown to fill their pots, they must be moved into larger pots. A pot that is slightly larger than each plant’s root ball is the ideal size, since a large volume of potting mix can hold too much moisture and pose a risk to rotting in the ground. Adult Echeveria plants require less water than seedlings, and they are watered only when their potting mix feels dry to the touch. Echeveria plants also require little fertilizer; a dose of dilute liquid fertilizer at the beginning of spring is enough to fuel their growth. As Echeveria are related to cacti, they grow well with specialist cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. Although these plants can thrive outdoors during the summer, they do not like cold temperatures. Gardeners residing in places that experience frost should bring these plants inside during the winter months.
Conclusion
Growing Echeveria from seed is a rewarding activity. As long as the seeds are fresh and the conditions are right, gardeners soon see fresh green leaves where once there were only a few Echeveria seeds.
Preparing Seeds for Planting
Gardeners must ensure that they use fresh Echeveria seeds to grow their plants. Old seeds germinate rarely, and they often fail to grow well. Once gardeners have sourced suitable seeds, they mix these seeds with approximately twice the volume of fine sand and stir the mixture gently with a toothpick. Echeveria seeds are black and tiny, so the resulting mixture resembles a fine, multi-colored powder.
Planting Seeds
Successful Echeveria plants require plant pots with an average diameter measuring 4 inches (10 cm). These pots should be filled with a well-draining, soil-free potting mix. Gardeners purchase this potting mix from an online or brick and mortar retailer, or they can make their own. Each pot requires firm tapping against a bench or table to settle the potting mix. The gardener gathers a pinch of sand and seed mixture between finger and thumb and carefully sprinkles it over the soil, so that each pot has a sparse covering.
Germinating Seeds
To encourage germination, gardeners place their pots with the Echeveria seeds in a tray filled with water. This setup allows the soil in each pot to absorb water from the bottom. The tray is placed in a location with bright but indirect light at a temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). It is important to maintain the correct the temperature, as Echeveria seeds do not germinate above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). The pots can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the surrounding air humid. Every so often, gardeners add water to the tray to keep the potting mix moist.
How to Spot Signs of Germination
Around three weeks after the seeds are planted, tiny leaves should start to appear. Once this happens, gardeners remove the plastic covering to give the tiny seedlings access to fresh air. They must watch out for fungal infections, which are common in Echeveria seedlings during the first two months of growth. If any fungus is visible, gardeners should treat all their pots with fungicide.
How to Care
When the Echeveria seedlings have grown to fill their pots, they must be moved into larger pots. A pot that is slightly larger than each plant’s root ball is the ideal size, since a large volume of potting mix can hold too much moisture and pose a risk to rotting in the ground. Adult Echeveria plants require less water than seedlings, and they are watered only when their potting mix feels dry to the touch. Echeveria plants also require little fertilizer; a dose of dilute liquid fertilizer at the beginning of spring is enough to fuel their growth. As Echeveria are related to cacti, they grow well with specialist cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. Although these plants can thrive outdoors during the summer, they do not like cold temperatures. Gardeners residing in places that experience frost should bring these plants inside during the winter months.
Conclusion
Growing Echeveria from seed is a rewarding activity. As long as the seeds are fresh and the conditions are right, gardeners soon see fresh green leaves where once there were only a few Echeveria seeds.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents are plants that survive long periods of drought by storing water in leaves, stems or roots. Their stems or roots become thick and fleshy when retaining water. Most succulents prefer dry conditions and grow well in containers. Succulents come in a variety of shapes and colors and propagate easily through leaf cuttings. Container-grown succulents require little maintenance while adding color and texture to a deck, porch or room.
1. Collect a succulent leaf cutting in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a healthy plant with no signs of damage or disease from which to take the cutting. Select a healthy leaf without blemish. Remove the leaf from the plant, breaking it or cutting it off with a knife at the point where the leaf connects with the stem. Place the leaf on a piece of paper, and set it in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room for one to two days to allow it to dry and form callus tissue over the cut end.
2. Choose a container for the leaf cutting. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Consider containers in colors and shapes that accentuate the chosen variety of succulent and the space it will be growing in.
3. Mix one part potting soil, two parts vermiculite and two parts perlite together to create a well-draining growing medium. Fill the container with the mixture, tamping it down firmly. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the soil surface and the top of the container. Water the soil in the container with a watering can two to three times to ensure it is evenly moist.
4. Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone. Push the cut end of the leaf down into the soil in the container until one-third to one-half of the leaf is buried. Tamp the soil down around the bottom of the leaf to stabilize it.
5. Place the container in an area with a constant temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose an area with bright indirect sunlight. Water the leaf cutting only when the top one-fourth layer of soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting once per day with a spray bottle to increase the humidity level. Watch for new growth to appear four to six weeks after planting, signaling that the plant has established roots.
1. Collect a succulent leaf cutting in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a healthy plant with no signs of damage or disease from which to take the cutting. Select a healthy leaf without blemish. Remove the leaf from the plant, breaking it or cutting it off with a knife at the point where the leaf connects with the stem. Place the leaf on a piece of paper, and set it in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room for one to two days to allow it to dry and form callus tissue over the cut end.
2. Choose a container for the leaf cutting. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Consider containers in colors and shapes that accentuate the chosen variety of succulent and the space it will be growing in.
3. Mix one part potting soil, two parts vermiculite and two parts perlite together to create a well-draining growing medium. Fill the container with the mixture, tamping it down firmly. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the soil surface and the top of the container. Water the soil in the container with a watering can two to three times to ensure it is evenly moist.
4. Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone. Push the cut end of the leaf down into the soil in the container until one-third to one-half of the leaf is buried. Tamp the soil down around the bottom of the leaf to stabilize it.
5. Place the container in an area with a constant temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose an area with bright indirect sunlight. Water the leaf cutting only when the top one-fourth layer of soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting once per day with a spray bottle to increase the humidity level. Watch for new growth to appear four to six weeks after planting, signaling that the plant has established roots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
One of the amazing things about succulents is how easy they are to grow. From one plant you can easily get multiple plants, making them an investment worth indulging in! Regrowing you own succulents can be quick and easy, and you don’t even need the greenest of thumbs. Take a look below at how to regrow succulents in a few easy steps, so you can enjoy multiple pots of these gorgeous plants.
How to Cut
First, let’s talk about harvesting the succulent you want to grow your plant from. You want to take a leaf that looks healthy, green, and full. Snip it as close to the base of the plant as possible. If the plant has been pulled from the soil, go ahead and keep the roots intact. Use clean scissors that are sharp and make a clean cut.
How to Plant
Fill your pot with a quality and nutrient rich soil. You want it to be soil that is well aerated and loose. This gives roots the room they need to grow. Place the ends of the cutting directly into the soil about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) deep. Pack the soil in around the stem. You can place several stems per 8-10 inch (20-25 cm) pot. Just keep each cutting 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) from each other so they have room to grow and spread.
How to Care
You will now start caring for your cuttings so they begin to grow into a full plant. Water once a week with a spray bottle or mister to avoid over feeding. Keep your soil damp but not saturated. You can also begin using a slow release fertilizer (preferably liquid) to give the plants the nutrients they need to get a strong start. Place the pot in warm area with ample sun.
Soon, your succulents will begin to grow and you will have full sized plants. As those plants grow, feel free to take cuttings from them and start the growing process all over again. This is a great way to keep providing yourself with new plants without great cost.
How to Cut
First, let’s talk about harvesting the succulent you want to grow your plant from. You want to take a leaf that looks healthy, green, and full. Snip it as close to the base of the plant as possible. If the plant has been pulled from the soil, go ahead and keep the roots intact. Use clean scissors that are sharp and make a clean cut.
How to Plant
Fill your pot with a quality and nutrient rich soil. You want it to be soil that is well aerated and loose. This gives roots the room they need to grow. Place the ends of the cutting directly into the soil about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) deep. Pack the soil in around the stem. You can place several stems per 8-10 inch (20-25 cm) pot. Just keep each cutting 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) from each other so they have room to grow and spread.
How to Care
You will now start caring for your cuttings so they begin to grow into a full plant. Water once a week with a spray bottle or mister to avoid over feeding. Keep your soil damp but not saturated. You can also begin using a slow release fertilizer (preferably liquid) to give the plants the nutrients they need to get a strong start. Place the pot in warm area with ample sun.
Soon, your succulents will begin to grow and you will have full sized plants. As those plants grow, feel free to take cuttings from them and start the growing process all over again. This is a great way to keep providing yourself with new plants without great cost.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kalanchoe plants are thick leaved succulents that are often seen in florist shops or garden centers. Most end up as potted plants but areas that can mimic their native land of Madagascar can grow them outdoors. They sense the shorter days of winter and provide your garden with clustered red, yellow, orange, pink, purple, white and variant of these blooms in both winter and spring. Although these succulents can be propagated by seed in both indoor containers and outdoor gardens, growing new Kalanchoe plants from leaves is much simpler and less time-consuming. The ability of a new Kalanchoe to grow from a leaf allows the plant to reproduce successfully without developing energy-consuming seed pods, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11.
Cutting Selection
Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.
Plantlet Alternative
Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.
Growing Environment
Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.
Watering Considerations
Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
Cutting Selection
Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.
Plantlet Alternative
Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.
Growing Environment
Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.
Watering Considerations
Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents feature plump, fleshy leaves and stems that retain moisture, similar to a cactus. Many succulent varieties also produce attractive flowers in season that can brighten up a small dish garden. Most succulent plants thrive in pots, because they require minimal watering or maintenance and they also grow slowly so rarely require repotting.
However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.
Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole.
Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.
Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing.
Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.
Tip
Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.
Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole.
Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.
Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing.
Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.
Tip
Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
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求助
Missysunflo
2017年09月22日
Left for a couple days, my plants are getting soft and dying. What's going on? Watered them a couple days before, and haven't had full sunshine in almost a week. Advice?
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rebeccamee：Water them when the soil dries out. Succulents cannot survive in soggy soil and their roots will be rotten. Enough sunlight is necessary and it helps the plants grow strong and well.
cclecombe
2017年09月22日
Here's my collection of propagating vines. It's a bit of a mix of monstera and pothos clippings from my own plants and some I collected on walks. I think the pink flowered one is a type of clover, but I'm not sure. I just thought it was pretty and gave it a go! If there's anything I could be doing differently for the benefit of the growth, please let me know!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Cacti are low maintenance plants for the home with a ton of character and a vast array of form. They are relatively maintenance free except for infrequent watering and annual food. Many gardeners ask “should I repot my cactus?” They don’t need repotting often, but once in a while for soil replenishment and when the plant needs a larger pot. When to repot a cactus plant depends upon the plant and its condition. Read on for tips on how to repot a cactus and do it without spending the rest of the day picking spines out of your hands.
Tools for Repotting
Cacti are succulents and tend to favor dry, hot conditions. They store moisture in their pads and use their spines as both defense and to provide some protection from burning hot sun rays. Cactus grown in the home can almost be ignored but they do require light, warmth, water and repotting to refresh the soil. Cactus repotting requires a special soil mix, well-draining container and some tactical protection.
The first issue to deal with is the handling of a spiny plant. There are a couple of ways to go about this. You can wrap the plant in several layers of newspaper and secure lightly with tape or twine. You can also use a pair of leather gloves or, for smaller plants, just grab your oven mitts.
One of the safest repotting tips is to use kitchen tongs. You will also need a cactus mix which you may purchase or make. A good combination is equal parts sand or bird gravel, potting soil and leaf mold. Your container must have excellent drainage holes and preferably be unglazed so the clay can direct away and evaporate any excess moisture.
When to Repot
You will know when to repot a cactus if you see roots coming out the bottom of the container. This indicates it is overly root bound. Most cacti find small spaces very cozy and can stay in their container for years. The sight of roots will let you know it has expanded too much and will need repotting.
The next size up container will be appropriate since they like it snug. A general rule of thumb is to repot every 2 to 4 years. If you fertilize annually, the latter is more appropriate but if you don’t fertilize, repot in two years to replenish soil fertility. The best time is during active growth in January or February.
How to Repot
Once you have answered the question, “should I repot my cactus?”, it is time to gather your tools and trade in the old soil or container. Not every cactus needs a new container, but fresh soil is a good idea. Only pot bound plants need a larger pot.
Wrap, glove or tong the plant gently out of its pot. They usually come out readily if the soil is dry but you may have to run a trowel around the edges to loosen the soil. Shake off the old soil and plant the cactus at the same depth it was growing in the old soil. Fill in around the roots with your medium and place it in a sunny southeast or east window.
Among important repotting cactus tips is to not water the plant yet, as it is adjusting to being handled and new soil conditions. After a few weeks, you can water the plant and allow it to dry out before watering again.
Tools for Repotting
Cacti are succulents and tend to favor dry, hot conditions. They store moisture in their pads and use their spines as both defense and to provide some protection from burning hot sun rays. Cactus grown in the home can almost be ignored but they do require light, warmth, water and repotting to refresh the soil. Cactus repotting requires a special soil mix, well-draining container and some tactical protection.
The first issue to deal with is the handling of a spiny plant. There are a couple of ways to go about this. You can wrap the plant in several layers of newspaper and secure lightly with tape or twine. You can also use a pair of leather gloves or, for smaller plants, just grab your oven mitts.
One of the safest repotting tips is to use kitchen tongs. You will also need a cactus mix which you may purchase or make. A good combination is equal parts sand or bird gravel, potting soil and leaf mold. Your container must have excellent drainage holes and preferably be unglazed so the clay can direct away and evaporate any excess moisture.
When to Repot
You will know when to repot a cactus if you see roots coming out the bottom of the container. This indicates it is overly root bound. Most cacti find small spaces very cozy and can stay in their container for years. The sight of roots will let you know it has expanded too much and will need repotting.
The next size up container will be appropriate since they like it snug. A general rule of thumb is to repot every 2 to 4 years. If you fertilize annually, the latter is more appropriate but if you don’t fertilize, repot in two years to replenish soil fertility. The best time is during active growth in January or February.
How to Repot
Once you have answered the question, “should I repot my cactus?”, it is time to gather your tools and trade in the old soil or container. Not every cactus needs a new container, but fresh soil is a good idea. Only pot bound plants need a larger pot.
Wrap, glove or tong the plant gently out of its pot. They usually come out readily if the soil is dry but you may have to run a trowel around the edges to loosen the soil. Shake off the old soil and plant the cactus at the same depth it was growing in the old soil. Fill in around the roots with your medium and place it in a sunny southeast or east window.
Among important repotting cactus tips is to not water the plant yet, as it is adjusting to being handled and new soil conditions. After a few weeks, you can water the plant and allow it to dry out before watering again.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents grow thick fleshy leaves and stems that store moisture and nutrients. This ability allows the plants to thrive in dry conditions. Potted succulents often require less watering and fertilizer than other houseplant varieties, but the irrigation they do require flushes nutrients out of the soil, so they need periodic feeding. Too much fertilizer, especially high-nitrogen blends, increase leaf and root rot problems. It’s vital to use the right blend and avoid overfeeding to keep the succulents healthy.
Dissolve a low-balanced soluble fertilizer, such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 formula, in 1 gallon (3.8 l) of water, Use half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the package for most succulents. For example, use ½ tablespoon 10-10-10 fertilizer if the label recommends using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Dilute to one-quarter strength for tropical succulents that require more frequent watering, such as a Christmas Cactus.
Water succulents with the half-strength solution until the excess moisture just begins to drain from the pot bottom. A gallon ((3.8 l)) of fertilizer solution may be enough to feed several plants, depending on size. Apply the fertilizer in spring as new growth begins and again in late summer or early fall. Do not fertilize when the succulents are semidormant in winter.
Irrigate tropical succulents weekly with the quarter-strength solution during the plant’s active growing season. Some tropical varieties actively grow in summer, while others are winter plants. Stop the fertilizer applications when plant growth naturally slows.
Apply fertilizers when the soil in the top inch of the pot has dried completely. Postpone a weekly application if the soil is still moist, so the soil can dry.
Tip
You can substitute the quarter-strength fertilizer for most succulents if the soil is drying rapidly in the pot and necessitating more frequent watering. Frequent irrigation flushes the nutrients from the pot before the plant can access them.
Outdoor succulents usually don’t require fertilizer because they can access the nutrient store in the soil. If they do need feeding, apply half the recommended amount of a balanced slow-release fertilizer in spring.
Dissolve a low-balanced soluble fertilizer, such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 formula, in 1 gallon (3.8 l) of water, Use half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the package for most succulents. For example, use ½ tablespoon 10-10-10 fertilizer if the label recommends using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Dilute to one-quarter strength for tropical succulents that require more frequent watering, such as a Christmas Cactus.
Water succulents with the half-strength solution until the excess moisture just begins to drain from the pot bottom. A gallon ((3.8 l)) of fertilizer solution may be enough to feed several plants, depending on size. Apply the fertilizer in spring as new growth begins and again in late summer or early fall. Do not fertilize when the succulents are semidormant in winter.
Irrigate tropical succulents weekly with the quarter-strength solution during the plant’s active growing season. Some tropical varieties actively grow in summer, while others are winter plants. Stop the fertilizer applications when plant growth naturally slows.
Apply fertilizers when the soil in the top inch of the pot has dried completely. Postpone a weekly application if the soil is still moist, so the soil can dry.
Tip
You can substitute the quarter-strength fertilizer for most succulents if the soil is drying rapidly in the pot and necessitating more frequent watering. Frequent irrigation flushes the nutrients from the pot before the plant can access them.
Outdoor succulents usually don’t require fertilizer because they can access the nutrient store in the soil. If they do need feeding, apply half the recommended amount of a balanced slow-release fertilizer in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Even if you love that great succulent look, or if drought has led you to these plants, you may already have had trouble growing them. The cause of death is overwatering, after which rot sets in, and the plants literally melt down into a gushy rotten mess. The problem is knowing when they want water and when they don’t.
For you to understand the “when to water” question, you need to know how succulents are different from ordinary plants. The chief characteristic is specialized cells that hold moisture ready rather than deriving new moisture daily from the soil. After they are watered, succulents take up moisture until every succulent cell is fully hydrated. Over time, they utilize this stored moisture, gradually reducing the hydrostatic pressure inside the cells and tissues within the plant. In between water applications, the roots prefer a dry, airy soil, which is why they are typically grown in porous potting soils for cactus and succulents.
Problems arise in wetter or more humid climates when soils don’t dry out in between water applications. They also occur when the drain hole in a pot becomes blocked or if it was too small to begin with. Pots designed for succulents often have numerous holes for this reason.
To know when to water them, you must learn how to tell when hydrostatic pressure is low.
Physical Touch
When your newly watered succulent is fully hydrated, it’s in the “hard body” stage. Squeeze it gently to get a feel for how hard the individual plant becomes, and let this serve as a basis for future comparison. When the internal moisture is used up, the whole plant will gradually soften due to loss of pressure. They actually yield to your touch. Beware of those with only some parts softening, as this can indicate invisible rot is spreading into healthy tissue.
Visual Change
Every succulent plant when fully hydrated will stand up to its full height and form, which combine to create attitude. Many alter their overall attitude when internal pressure drops low enough. For example, Pachypodium’s long thin stalk will literally fold in half, then once watered, it straightens right back up again as hydrostatic pressure returns. Others will show slight wrinkles on the skin caused by reduced interior tissue volume. Drooping leaves, sagging tips or subtle leaning are all changes of attitude caused by low internal moisture.
Watering Method
In my experience, there are a lot of problems caused when succulents are watered from the top down like ordinary potted plants. Water travels down the edges of the soil mass and out the bottom, leaving too little behind for adequate uptake. Succulents often rot right at the soil line due to this kind of watering. For easily handled pots, simply set them in a pan of water so the soil inside can wick up the water through the drain hole. When the moisture wicks up to the surface of the soil, take the pot out of the water and let it drain. This method ensures that the entire soil mass, not just the edges are fully moistened.
Remember that most succulents originate in habitats with occasional heavy rain events followed by extended periods of drought. Fortunately they speak to us in the silent language of touch and appearance, which tell you clearly when they’re dry enough for a drink.
For you to understand the “when to water” question, you need to know how succulents are different from ordinary plants. The chief characteristic is specialized cells that hold moisture ready rather than deriving new moisture daily from the soil. After they are watered, succulents take up moisture until every succulent cell is fully hydrated. Over time, they utilize this stored moisture, gradually reducing the hydrostatic pressure inside the cells and tissues within the plant. In between water applications, the roots prefer a dry, airy soil, which is why they are typically grown in porous potting soils for cactus and succulents.
Problems arise in wetter or more humid climates when soils don’t dry out in between water applications. They also occur when the drain hole in a pot becomes blocked or if it was too small to begin with. Pots designed for succulents often have numerous holes for this reason.
To know when to water them, you must learn how to tell when hydrostatic pressure is low.
Physical Touch
When your newly watered succulent is fully hydrated, it’s in the “hard body” stage. Squeeze it gently to get a feel for how hard the individual plant becomes, and let this serve as a basis for future comparison. When the internal moisture is used up, the whole plant will gradually soften due to loss of pressure. They actually yield to your touch. Beware of those with only some parts softening, as this can indicate invisible rot is spreading into healthy tissue.
Visual Change
Every succulent plant when fully hydrated will stand up to its full height and form, which combine to create attitude. Many alter their overall attitude when internal pressure drops low enough. For example, Pachypodium’s long thin stalk will literally fold in half, then once watered, it straightens right back up again as hydrostatic pressure returns. Others will show slight wrinkles on the skin caused by reduced interior tissue volume. Drooping leaves, sagging tips or subtle leaning are all changes of attitude caused by low internal moisture.
Watering Method
In my experience, there are a lot of problems caused when succulents are watered from the top down like ordinary potted plants. Water travels down the edges of the soil mass and out the bottom, leaving too little behind for adequate uptake. Succulents often rot right at the soil line due to this kind of watering. For easily handled pots, simply set them in a pan of water so the soil inside can wick up the water through the drain hole. When the moisture wicks up to the surface of the soil, take the pot out of the water and let it drain. This method ensures that the entire soil mass, not just the edges are fully moistened.
Remember that most succulents originate in habitats with occasional heavy rain events followed by extended periods of drought. Fortunately they speak to us in the silent language of touch and appearance, which tell you clearly when they’re dry enough for a drink.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulent plants store water in their tissue. That, by definition, is what makes it a succulent plant. Succulents use the water they store in their tissue to help them survive long, dry periods. Since cacti and other succulents as a general rule grow in dry places, they take up water through their roots very quickly and efficiently. On the other hand, they do not have the ability to quickly get rid of excess water. While this all works out fine in the wild, when csucculents are grown in cultivation, people can supply more water than the succulents needs. This is actually a common situation and the plants in cultivation look plump and happy compared to their habitat counterparts.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Q. I set a small pot of Baby Toes in a sunny window and watered on the same schedule as my other plants. What caused the plant to disintegrate?
A. You gave your Baby Toes too much water. This succulent, Fenestraria aurantiaca, which originated in the Cape Province of South Africa, does its growing in winter and can then be watered sparingly. Summer heat turns this plant off and dictates light sprinkling only.
Baby Toes (Fenestraria) belongs to the Aizoaceae, or Carpetweed, family. Ice Plants (Dorotheanthus) and Mesembryanthemum are related, as well as the living-stone Lithops, Tiger Jaws (Faucaria) and a host of other fascinating succulents.
With a name like baby toes, we can take for granted that this plant might be thought cute or adorable. What turns me on is the translucent window set within the pearly whitish top of each gray-green club-shaped leaf. At home in the sand dunes of southwestern Africa, these exist buried to the windowed tops. In cultivation, the crown is set high to avoid rot.
As a growing medium, expert suggests adding extra portions of clean, sharp sand to packaged all-purpose potting mixes, including the so-called soil-less types. Very dilute low nitrogen fertilizer is applied during active growth.
A. You gave your Baby Toes too much water. This succulent, Fenestraria aurantiaca, which originated in the Cape Province of South Africa, does its growing in winter and can then be watered sparingly. Summer heat turns this plant off and dictates light sprinkling only.
Baby Toes (Fenestraria) belongs to the Aizoaceae, or Carpetweed, family. Ice Plants (Dorotheanthus) and Mesembryanthemum are related, as well as the living-stone Lithops, Tiger Jaws (Faucaria) and a host of other fascinating succulents.
With a name like baby toes, we can take for granted that this plant might be thought cute or adorable. What turns me on is the translucent window set within the pearly whitish top of each gray-green club-shaped leaf. At home in the sand dunes of southwestern Africa, these exist buried to the windowed tops. In cultivation, the crown is set high to avoid rot.
As a growing medium, expert suggests adding extra portions of clean, sharp sand to packaged all-purpose potting mixes, including the so-called soil-less types. Very dilute low nitrogen fertilizer is applied during active growth.
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