文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Despite all your planning and care, nature and animals have a way of messing up the garden and landscape in ways that may seem needlessly cruel to the plants involved. Uprooted garden plants are a very common gardening problem, especially in areas prone to high winds. Trees, garden vegetables and perennials are frequent victims. Keep reading for information on what to do about plant roots coming out of ground.
Can Uprooted Plants be Saved?
Yes, sometimes uprooted plants can be saved. That’s the best answer you’ll get out of an experienced gardener because dealing with uprooted plants is a gamble at best. Uprooted plant damage ranges in severity from annoying and cosmetic to extremely damaging, especially when large portions of the root system are broken or left exposed to the air for extended periods.
Tree roots coming out of the ground are especially problematic, both because of the challenge of up-righting the tree and that of re-anchoring it. Small plants that have been uprooted for a very short time and not allowed to dry out are the easiest to save. These plants may have lost a few root hairs but aren’t going to experience anything more than minor transplant shock.
As plant size and exposure time increases, the outcome of your rescue operation is much less certain, but it’s always worth trying. If you just leave the plant uprooted, there’s zero chance it’ll survive, where even the most stressed uprooted plant might survive with enough care.
How to Replant an Uprooted Plant
When a plant has been uprooted, you must act quickly and decisively in order to save it. First, inspect the rootball carefully for breaks and damage. If the roots are white and relatively intact, your plant is healthy, so wet the rootball well and replant it where it belongs. Small plants dug by dogs or other wild animals can usually be convinced to remain stable simply by watering them well and leaving them alone. Bigger plants, however, will need more convincing. You’ll need to supply extra support for larger bushes and trees uprooted by wind or other accidents, since they’re often top heavy and won’t be able to compensate right away. Resist the urge to trim trees and bushes at this time – they’re going to need all the leaves they have to feed their new root growth.
Many gardeners tie them to posts or pins secured in the ground, with the tension pulling in the opposite direction of the tree’s new lean. Boards can also be wedged between the trunk and the ground at an angle to help hold the tree upright. Using both methods in combination may yield the best results. Wait to fertilize your plant with nitrogen until it starts to show signs of new growth, since it doesn’t need the added stress associated with putting out a lot of shoots while it’s trying to anchor itself to the ground.
Remove the supports several times a month to check the steadiness of your plant; reinstall them if the tree can be wiggled in its hole even a little bit. Remember to water your troubled plant well and often – it may be missing a significant portion of its roots and unable to bring enough water into its system to meet its needs.
Can Uprooted Plants be Saved?
Yes, sometimes uprooted plants can be saved. That’s the best answer you’ll get out of an experienced gardener because dealing with uprooted plants is a gamble at best. Uprooted plant damage ranges in severity from annoying and cosmetic to extremely damaging, especially when large portions of the root system are broken or left exposed to the air for extended periods.
Tree roots coming out of the ground are especially problematic, both because of the challenge of up-righting the tree and that of re-anchoring it. Small plants that have been uprooted for a very short time and not allowed to dry out are the easiest to save. These plants may have lost a few root hairs but aren’t going to experience anything more than minor transplant shock.
As plant size and exposure time increases, the outcome of your rescue operation is much less certain, but it’s always worth trying. If you just leave the plant uprooted, there’s zero chance it’ll survive, where even the most stressed uprooted plant might survive with enough care.
How to Replant an Uprooted Plant
When a plant has been uprooted, you must act quickly and decisively in order to save it. First, inspect the rootball carefully for breaks and damage. If the roots are white and relatively intact, your plant is healthy, so wet the rootball well and replant it where it belongs. Small plants dug by dogs or other wild animals can usually be convinced to remain stable simply by watering them well and leaving them alone. Bigger plants, however, will need more convincing. You’ll need to supply extra support for larger bushes and trees uprooted by wind or other accidents, since they’re often top heavy and won’t be able to compensate right away. Resist the urge to trim trees and bushes at this time – they’re going to need all the leaves they have to feed their new root growth.
Many gardeners tie them to posts or pins secured in the ground, with the tension pulling in the opposite direction of the tree’s new lean. Boards can also be wedged between the trunk and the ground at an angle to help hold the tree upright. Using both methods in combination may yield the best results. Wait to fertilize your plant with nitrogen until it starts to show signs of new growth, since it doesn’t need the added stress associated with putting out a lot of shoots while it’s trying to anchor itself to the ground.
Remove the supports several times a month to check the steadiness of your plant; reinstall them if the tree can be wiggled in its hole even a little bit. Remember to water your troubled plant well and often – it may be missing a significant portion of its roots and unable to bring enough water into its system to meet its needs.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Rain is as important to your plants as sun and nutrients, but like anything else, too much of a good thing can spell trouble. When rain is knocking down plants, gardeners despair, worried that their precious petunias will never be the same. Although plants flattened by rain are a troubling sight, torrential rains and plants have been co-existing for thousands of years — healthy plants are perfectly capable of managing rain damage.
Will Plants Recover from Rain Damage?
Heavy rain damage on plants may leave them looking like they’ve been flattened to within an inch of their lives, but if you take a closer look at stems and branches, you’ll notice something amazing — most of those rain damaged parts are bent, not broken. Your plants may look terrible, but their flexibility saved them from a monstrous rain storm. If instead they remained rigid in the face of such an intense beating, their tissues would have broken or cracked, causing important transportation pathways to be severed. A few days to a week after a damaging storm, your plants will perk back up. Sometimes flowers are damaged and leaves slightly torn, but your plants will replace these injured areas much faster than seems possible if you leave them alone to do it. Don’t try to prop plants that are rain-flattened, since this can lead to additional damage. Let them be and watch them come back from their beating.
Help for Rain Damaged Plants
Healthy plants can take a good pounding from the rain and will come back for more, but if your plants have been over fertilized or are planted in an area where the light is really too low for them, you may have a problem. Under these conditions, your plants may have developed leggy, weak growth that was unable to flex enough to protect them from damage.
If your plant stems are broken, rather than bent, you can help them recover by removing severely damaged tissues within a week after the damaging rain. This makes room for new leaves and shoots, and helps prevent the damaged, browning tissues from encouraging disease. In the future, perform a soil test before fertilizing and make sure that your plants are getting enough light to develop strong stems and branches.
Will Plants Recover from Rain Damage?
Heavy rain damage on plants may leave them looking like they’ve been flattened to within an inch of their lives, but if you take a closer look at stems and branches, you’ll notice something amazing — most of those rain damaged parts are bent, not broken. Your plants may look terrible, but their flexibility saved them from a monstrous rain storm. If instead they remained rigid in the face of such an intense beating, their tissues would have broken or cracked, causing important transportation pathways to be severed. A few days to a week after a damaging storm, your plants will perk back up. Sometimes flowers are damaged and leaves slightly torn, but your plants will replace these injured areas much faster than seems possible if you leave them alone to do it. Don’t try to prop plants that are rain-flattened, since this can lead to additional damage. Let them be and watch them come back from their beating.
Help for Rain Damaged Plants
Healthy plants can take a good pounding from the rain and will come back for more, but if your plants have been over fertilized or are planted in an area where the light is really too low for them, you may have a problem. Under these conditions, your plants may have developed leggy, weak growth that was unable to flex enough to protect them from damage.
If your plant stems are broken, rather than bent, you can help them recover by removing severely damaged tissues within a week after the damaging rain. This makes room for new leaves and shoots, and helps prevent the damaged, browning tissues from encouraging disease. In the future, perform a soil test before fertilizing and make sure that your plants are getting enough light to develop strong stems and branches.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
To a gardener, rain is generally a welcome blessing. Wet weather and plants are usually a match made in heaven. However, sometimes there can be too much of a good thing. Excessive rain on plants can cause plenty of trouble in the garden. Overly wet weather causes diseases via bacterial and fungal pathogens fostered by long term moisture on foliage and root systems. If your garden is in region of plentiful rainfall or has just been hit by storms, you might be wondering how to garden in wet ground and what are the effects of wet weather on the garden.
Effects of Wet Weather in Gardens
As mentioned above, excessive rain on plants promotes disease often evidenced in stunting, spots on foliage, decay on leaves, stems or fruit, wilting and, in severe cases, death of the entire plant. Extreme wet weather also keeps pollinators at bay affecting bloom and fruiting. If your plants exhibit these symptoms, it may be too late to save them. However, by monitoring and early recognition, you may be able to avert disaster in the garden due to excessive rain on plants and the resulting diseases that plague them.
Wet Weather Diseases
here are a number of wet weather diseases that may afflict the garden. Anthracnose – Anthracnose fungi spread on deciduous and evergreen trees during overly wet seasons and usually begin on lower branches, gradually spreading up the tree. Also called leaf blight, anthracnose appears as dark lesions on leaves, stems, flowers and fruit with premature leaf drop. To combat this fungus, rake and dispose of tree detritus during the growing season and fall. Prune in the winter to increase air flow and remove infected limbs. Fungicidal sprays can work, but are impractical on large trees.
Powdery mildew – Powdery mildew is another common disease caused by excessive rain. It looks like a white powdery growth on leaf surfaces and infects new and old foliage. Leaves generally drop prematurely. Wind carries powdery mildew spores and it can germinate even in the absence of moisture. Sunlight and heat will kill off this fungus or an application of neem oil, sulfur, bicarbonates, organic fungicides with Bacillius subtillis or synthetic fungicides. Apple scab – Apple scab fungus causes leaves to curl and blacken and black spots appear on rose bush leaves during rainy seasons. Fire blight – Fire blight is a bacterial disease that affects fruit trees, such as pear and apple. Iron chlorosis – Iron chlorosis is an environmental disease, which prevents roots from in taking enough iron.
Shot hole, peach leaf curl, shock virus, and brown rot may also assault the garden.
How to Garden in Wet Ground and Prevent Disease
As with most things, the best defense is a good offense, meaning prevention is the key to disease management during rainy seasons. Sanitation is the number one cultural technique to manage or prevent disease. Remove and burn any diseased leaves or fruit from not only the tree or plant, but from the surrounding ground as well. Secondly, select cultivars that are resistant to disease and situate them on high ground to prevent root rot. Plant only those cultivars that thrive in wet environments and avoid those that are native to drier regions.
Disease spreads easily from plant to plant when leaves are wet, so avoid pruning or harvesting until the foliage has dried off. Prune and stake the plants to improve aeration and increase dry time after heavy rainfall or dewy mornings. Improve soil drainage if it is lacking and plant in raised beds or mounds.
Remove any infected plant parts as soon as you see them. Remember to sanitize the pruners before moving on to other plants so you don’t spread the disease. Then either bag and dispose or burn infected leaves and other plant parts. Finally, a fungicide may be applied either prior to or early in the development of disease.
Effects of Wet Weather in Gardens
As mentioned above, excessive rain on plants promotes disease often evidenced in stunting, spots on foliage, decay on leaves, stems or fruit, wilting and, in severe cases, death of the entire plant. Extreme wet weather also keeps pollinators at bay affecting bloom and fruiting. If your plants exhibit these symptoms, it may be too late to save them. However, by monitoring and early recognition, you may be able to avert disaster in the garden due to excessive rain on plants and the resulting diseases that plague them.
Wet Weather Diseases
here are a number of wet weather diseases that may afflict the garden. Anthracnose – Anthracnose fungi spread on deciduous and evergreen trees during overly wet seasons and usually begin on lower branches, gradually spreading up the tree. Also called leaf blight, anthracnose appears as dark lesions on leaves, stems, flowers and fruit with premature leaf drop. To combat this fungus, rake and dispose of tree detritus during the growing season and fall. Prune in the winter to increase air flow and remove infected limbs. Fungicidal sprays can work, but are impractical on large trees.
Powdery mildew – Powdery mildew is another common disease caused by excessive rain. It looks like a white powdery growth on leaf surfaces and infects new and old foliage. Leaves generally drop prematurely. Wind carries powdery mildew spores and it can germinate even in the absence of moisture. Sunlight and heat will kill off this fungus or an application of neem oil, sulfur, bicarbonates, organic fungicides with Bacillius subtillis or synthetic fungicides. Apple scab – Apple scab fungus causes leaves to curl and blacken and black spots appear on rose bush leaves during rainy seasons. Fire blight – Fire blight is a bacterial disease that affects fruit trees, such as pear and apple. Iron chlorosis – Iron chlorosis is an environmental disease, which prevents roots from in taking enough iron.
Shot hole, peach leaf curl, shock virus, and brown rot may also assault the garden.
How to Garden in Wet Ground and Prevent Disease
As with most things, the best defense is a good offense, meaning prevention is the key to disease management during rainy seasons. Sanitation is the number one cultural technique to manage or prevent disease. Remove and burn any diseased leaves or fruit from not only the tree or plant, but from the surrounding ground as well. Secondly, select cultivars that are resistant to disease and situate them on high ground to prevent root rot. Plant only those cultivars that thrive in wet environments and avoid those that are native to drier regions.
Disease spreads easily from plant to plant when leaves are wet, so avoid pruning or harvesting until the foliage has dried off. Prune and stake the plants to improve aeration and increase dry time after heavy rainfall or dewy mornings. Improve soil drainage if it is lacking and plant in raised beds or mounds.
Remove any infected plant parts as soon as you see them. Remember to sanitize the pruners before moving on to other plants so you don’t spread the disease. Then either bag and dispose or burn infected leaves and other plant parts. Finally, a fungicide may be applied either prior to or early in the development of disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
What is a blind plant? Plant blindness is not visually challenged flora. Non-blooming of plants that should bloom is the actual definition of plant blindness. The reason some plants fail to bloom can be caused by many situations. Let’s work together to discover the answers and causes to this disappointing bloom issue.
There is nothing more exciting than the first blooms of spring and few things more discouraging than the failure of a favorite plant to produce flowers. Blind shoots form at the end of many types of plants, resulting in a lack of flowers. Bulbs, like daffodils, also go blind suddenly one season and form copious foliage but no blooms. There are a variety of factors that can cause this. Some of them are correctable and some of them are the capriciousness of nature.
What is a Blind Plant?
To answer this question we need to observe the basic rules of bloom formation. The non-blooming of plants, or plant blindness, is found in a host of plant specimens. You may first notice it in bulbs, which once performed beautifully year after year, but now fail to bloom. In order for any plant to produce flowers, it needs adequate soil and exposure, water, nutrients and temperature. A bulb is a perfect little system for nutrient storage and it is this stored material which fuels the blooms. Similarly, other flowering plants uptake energy from the soil or the addition of fertilizer, to stimulate blooming. There are some steps you can take when plants fail to bloom but some are just plants prone to blindness.
Causes of Plant Blindness
Any atmospheric changes may prevent a plant from blooming. Temperature, inadequate moisture, genetic factors, pests, disease and many other causes may form a blind plant. Some plants prone to blindness are fruiting plants, such as tomatoes. When they fail to bloom, you will not get fruit. Sometimes pinching off side shoots helps, but often it is just an anomaly and you will have to get another plant. Blind shoots from roses have been studied as grafted plants and the resulting offspring were found to produce even more blooms than cuttings from flowering plants. This should be encouraging and seems to point out that blind plants are not useless but can be the source of propagation material.
Preventing Plant Blindness
There is no surefire way of preventing plant blindness. Providing supplemental fertilizer or a bloom food can increase the chances of blooms. Proper pruning techniques will help you avoid cutting off the bloom sites on your plants. For instance, some plants bloom off of old wood only, so you don’t want to accidentally cut that portion off until after the bloom period. Spur pruning can help increase bloom in apples and other fruiting trees. Potted bloomers should be replanted every year when dormant and given fresh nutrient rich soil with compost mixed in to help feed the process.
There are also chemicals, called primers, which can help decrease the incidence of blind plants at germination but these seem to be limited to commercial use. The frustrated gardener should try these tips and wait until the following year and see if you get blooms. If heroic garden efforts fail to awake the late bloomer, it might be time to compost the reluctant plant in favor of a more reliable flower producer.
There is nothing more exciting than the first blooms of spring and few things more discouraging than the failure of a favorite plant to produce flowers. Blind shoots form at the end of many types of plants, resulting in a lack of flowers. Bulbs, like daffodils, also go blind suddenly one season and form copious foliage but no blooms. There are a variety of factors that can cause this. Some of them are correctable and some of them are the capriciousness of nature.
What is a Blind Plant?
To answer this question we need to observe the basic rules of bloom formation. The non-blooming of plants, or plant blindness, is found in a host of plant specimens. You may first notice it in bulbs, which once performed beautifully year after year, but now fail to bloom. In order for any plant to produce flowers, it needs adequate soil and exposure, water, nutrients and temperature. A bulb is a perfect little system for nutrient storage and it is this stored material which fuels the blooms. Similarly, other flowering plants uptake energy from the soil or the addition of fertilizer, to stimulate blooming. There are some steps you can take when plants fail to bloom but some are just plants prone to blindness.
Causes of Plant Blindness
Any atmospheric changes may prevent a plant from blooming. Temperature, inadequate moisture, genetic factors, pests, disease and many other causes may form a blind plant. Some plants prone to blindness are fruiting plants, such as tomatoes. When they fail to bloom, you will not get fruit. Sometimes pinching off side shoots helps, but often it is just an anomaly and you will have to get another plant. Blind shoots from roses have been studied as grafted plants and the resulting offspring were found to produce even more blooms than cuttings from flowering plants. This should be encouraging and seems to point out that blind plants are not useless but can be the source of propagation material.
Preventing Plant Blindness
There is no surefire way of preventing plant blindness. Providing supplemental fertilizer or a bloom food can increase the chances of blooms. Proper pruning techniques will help you avoid cutting off the bloom sites on your plants. For instance, some plants bloom off of old wood only, so you don’t want to accidentally cut that portion off until after the bloom period. Spur pruning can help increase bloom in apples and other fruiting trees. Potted bloomers should be replanted every year when dormant and given fresh nutrient rich soil with compost mixed in to help feed the process.
There are also chemicals, called primers, which can help decrease the incidence of blind plants at germination but these seem to be limited to commercial use. The frustrated gardener should try these tips and wait until the following year and see if you get blooms. If heroic garden efforts fail to awake the late bloomer, it might be time to compost the reluctant plant in favor of a more reliable flower producer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
If you’ve ever experienced the disappointment of having healthy buds and flowers drop off of your plants, this article is for you. Read on to find out what causes blossom drop in plants, and what you can do about it.
Why Do Flowers Fall Off?
In some cases, blossom drop in plants is normal. For instance, male flowers naturally drop from vegetable plants after a few days. Many vegetables, like squash, begin producing male flowers as much as two weeks before the first female flower bloom.
That being said, healthy blossoms can suddenly drop from plants due to inadequate pollination, environmental factors, low soil fertility and thrips.
Pollination
When healthy blooms fall off vegetables and other flowering plants a few days after they open, the flowers probably weren’t pollinated. Here are some of the reasons flowers don’t get pollinated: High daytime temperatures or low night temperatures prevent pollination. The range of acceptable temperatures varies from plant to plant, but you can expect to lose some flowers when daytime temperatures are above 85 F. (29 C.) or night temperatures drop below 55 F. (12 C.). Tomatoes drop their flowers when nighttime temperatures remain above 75 F. (23 C.).
With the decline in honeybee populations, the lack of insect pollinators has become a major problem in some areas. Limit the use of insecticides, especially from midmorning until midafternoon when bees are out and about. Honeybees and several other insect pollinators don’t fly on cold or rainy days.
Environmental
Temperature fluctuations, such as those above, greatly affect plant blooms. In addition to flower drop during high temps, cooler temperatures following blossom set can also lead to healthy blossoms falling off. Insufficient light, be it too much or too little, can also contribute to healthy flowers dropping off plants. Soil Fertility
Low soil fertility can inhibit the continuance of healthy blooming. Rather than fertilizing at the onset of blooming, Apply fertilizers at least four to six weeks prior to flowering.
Thrips
Thrips can also cause buds and flowers to fall off of plants. These tiny pests get inside buds and feed on the petals. Although thrips are difficult to see without magnification, you can see the blotching and streaking on the petals. Spinosad is an environmentally safe insecticide that kills thrips, but it is difficult to bring insecticides in contact with thrips because they are enclosed inside the buds. Non-chemical control options include controlling nearby grass and weeds, picking off and destroying infested buds, and regularly spraying the plants with water.
Flower Drop Tips
The blossoms on both vegetable and ornamental plants drop when the plant experiences stress. Here are some tips to minimize stress in the garden:
Keep the soil evenly moist. Mulch helps prevent water evaporation and keeps the moisture level even. Water slowly and deeply in the absence of rain, and never allow the soil to become dry. Plants experience stress when they don’t have the proper nutrients. Most plants respond well to feeding in spring and midsummer with a layer of compost or a slow-release fertilizer. Some plants have special needs, and your seed packet or plant tag should explain how to feed them.
Plant flowers and vegetables in a location where they will get the right amount of sunlight. Both too little and too much sun can stress a plant and cause the flowers to drop. If you follow these tips, you’ll have healthy plants with natural resistance to insects and diseases. If you notice signs of infestation, treat the plant as soon as possible.
Why Do Flowers Fall Off?
In some cases, blossom drop in plants is normal. For instance, male flowers naturally drop from vegetable plants after a few days. Many vegetables, like squash, begin producing male flowers as much as two weeks before the first female flower bloom.
That being said, healthy blossoms can suddenly drop from plants due to inadequate pollination, environmental factors, low soil fertility and thrips.
Pollination
When healthy blooms fall off vegetables and other flowering plants a few days after they open, the flowers probably weren’t pollinated. Here are some of the reasons flowers don’t get pollinated: High daytime temperatures or low night temperatures prevent pollination. The range of acceptable temperatures varies from plant to plant, but you can expect to lose some flowers when daytime temperatures are above 85 F. (29 C.) or night temperatures drop below 55 F. (12 C.). Tomatoes drop their flowers when nighttime temperatures remain above 75 F. (23 C.).
With the decline in honeybee populations, the lack of insect pollinators has become a major problem in some areas. Limit the use of insecticides, especially from midmorning until midafternoon when bees are out and about. Honeybees and several other insect pollinators don’t fly on cold or rainy days.
Environmental
Temperature fluctuations, such as those above, greatly affect plant blooms. In addition to flower drop during high temps, cooler temperatures following blossom set can also lead to healthy blossoms falling off. Insufficient light, be it too much or too little, can also contribute to healthy flowers dropping off plants. Soil Fertility
Low soil fertility can inhibit the continuance of healthy blooming. Rather than fertilizing at the onset of blooming, Apply fertilizers at least four to six weeks prior to flowering.
Thrips
Thrips can also cause buds and flowers to fall off of plants. These tiny pests get inside buds and feed on the petals. Although thrips are difficult to see without magnification, you can see the blotching and streaking on the petals. Spinosad is an environmentally safe insecticide that kills thrips, but it is difficult to bring insecticides in contact with thrips because they are enclosed inside the buds. Non-chemical control options include controlling nearby grass and weeds, picking off and destroying infested buds, and regularly spraying the plants with water.
Flower Drop Tips
The blossoms on both vegetable and ornamental plants drop when the plant experiences stress. Here are some tips to minimize stress in the garden:
Keep the soil evenly moist. Mulch helps prevent water evaporation and keeps the moisture level even. Water slowly and deeply in the absence of rain, and never allow the soil to become dry. Plants experience stress when they don’t have the proper nutrients. Most plants respond well to feeding in spring and midsummer with a layer of compost or a slow-release fertilizer. Some plants have special needs, and your seed packet or plant tag should explain how to feed them.
Plant flowers and vegetables in a location where they will get the right amount of sunlight. Both too little and too much sun can stress a plant and cause the flowers to drop. If you follow these tips, you’ll have healthy plants with natural resistance to insects and diseases. If you notice signs of infestation, treat the plant as soon as possible.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Bringing home new plants from the nursery is one of life’s greatest joys for gardeners the world over, but when you’ve only just started in the garden, there are a lot of things that other gardeners assume you already know. They figure you know how to properly water, fertilize and care for your plants and neglect to point out these things that they find obvious – another often overlooked, yet valuable, bit of information can prevent your plants from turning white when the heat of the summer is bearing down.
What Does Plant Sunburn Look Like?
Plant leaves turning white is often the first, and sometimes the only sign of leaf sunscald in plants. You can think of this problem as plant sunburn damage and you won’t be far off from the truth. In a greenhouse, plants are exposed to high levels of filtered or artificial light, so they grow leaves that are good at soaking up those wavelengths. The problem with taking a plant straight from the greenhouse to your full sun garden is that they aren’t prepared for the extra UV rays they’re getting outside.
Just like you turn beet red if you forget the sunscreen on your first long day outside in spring, your plants can experience sun damage to what is essentially their skin. The outer layers of leaf tissue burn up with so much light exposure, causing light tan to white discoloration on the leaves and stems of tender plants. In some instances, established plantings can suffer from this as well, especially during an unexpected and extended heat wave (meaning more intense sunlight and UV rays). Vegetables and fruits can also suffer the same kind of sun damage if something causes your plants to suddenly defoliate, exposing fruits to excessive light.
How to Protect Plants from Sunburn
Sunscald injury of plants is easy to prevent, though there is no cure. Once leaves are damaged, all you can do is support the plant until it manages to grow new, stronger leaves. Slower acclimation to bright sun, known as hardening off, is vital to promoting sun resistant leaf development and preventing plant sunburn damage.
For plants already suffering, use a sunshade to restrict their exposure to UV light. Slowly give them more time each day with the sunshade removed until they are toughened up. This process can take about two weeks, at which time your plant should be ready for the sun. Make sure you properly water and feed plants with sunscald while they’re trying to recover — they’ll need all the support they can get.
What Does Plant Sunburn Look Like?
Plant leaves turning white is often the first, and sometimes the only sign of leaf sunscald in plants. You can think of this problem as plant sunburn damage and you won’t be far off from the truth. In a greenhouse, plants are exposed to high levels of filtered or artificial light, so they grow leaves that are good at soaking up those wavelengths. The problem with taking a plant straight from the greenhouse to your full sun garden is that they aren’t prepared for the extra UV rays they’re getting outside.
Just like you turn beet red if you forget the sunscreen on your first long day outside in spring, your plants can experience sun damage to what is essentially their skin. The outer layers of leaf tissue burn up with so much light exposure, causing light tan to white discoloration on the leaves and stems of tender plants. In some instances, established plantings can suffer from this as well, especially during an unexpected and extended heat wave (meaning more intense sunlight and UV rays). Vegetables and fruits can also suffer the same kind of sun damage if something causes your plants to suddenly defoliate, exposing fruits to excessive light.
How to Protect Plants from Sunburn
Sunscald injury of plants is easy to prevent, though there is no cure. Once leaves are damaged, all you can do is support the plant until it manages to grow new, stronger leaves. Slower acclimation to bright sun, known as hardening off, is vital to promoting sun resistant leaf development and preventing plant sunburn damage.
For plants already suffering, use a sunshade to restrict their exposure to UV light. Slowly give them more time each day with the sunshade removed until they are toughened up. This process can take about two weeks, at which time your plant should be ready for the sun. Make sure you properly water and feed plants with sunscald while they’re trying to recover — they’ll need all the support they can get.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Even the professionals may have trouble determining the exact water needs of a plant. The results can be disastrous due to the stress from over or under watering. Overwatering in potted plants is of the most concern, as they are in a captive habitat. Nutrients are washed away and mold or fungal issues may develop with overwatering. Under watering creates an inhospitable environment where plants can’t intake nutrients and wither or die. A few tips and tricks can teach you how to avoid overwatering of container plants for healthy, no-fuss greenery and ways of treating overwatered plants.
Overwatering really is a fine line with many species of plant. While we know plants need water, even cacti, the exact amount and frequency may be something of a mystery. Container plants with too much water may experience foliage die off, rotten roots and tubers, and promotion of some pests or mold issues. All of these stress the plant and compromise its health. Potted plants that are too wet may even simply rot off at the crown or base.
How to Avoid Overwatering of Container Plants
An obvious method to prevent overwatering in potted plants is with the use of a moisture meter. You also need to know your plant species and its watering needs. A broad guide for plants is to keep the top few inches of soil moderately moist. When this area is dry, apply water deeply and then allow the soil to dry to the touch again, before adding more water.
A low tech solution is to get your fingers grimy. Push a finger into the soil up to the second knuckle or test the bottom of the post through a drainage hole. Never let the bottom of the container rest in a pool of water unless it is an aquatic plant, and even then, drain and refill the saucer frequently to prevent fungus gnats and root rot.
What Plants Like it Wet and Which Like it Dry
Broadly speaking, even moisture is the best option for many container plants.
Low Moisture Plants
Cacti and succulents should have dry periods in the winter when active growth is not occurring but need moderate water during the growing season. Examples of other low moisture plants are:
Aloe
Bromeliads
Cast iron plant
Ponytail palms
Spider plants
Moderate Watering Needs
Tropical plants and understory specimens will need moderate water and high humidity. These include:
Philodendron
Figs
Dragon trees
Bird of paradise
You can increase humidity with misting or by placing the pot on a saucer filled with pebbles and water.
High Moisture Plants
Extreme moisture needs are found in plants like:
African violet
Lipstick plants
Maidenhair ferns
Dieffenbachia
Treating Overwatered Plants
There are some ways to save overwatered plants.
Changing the soil to a grittier mix with better drainage may help. Check the drainage holes at repotting and ensure they are open. Use containers that help evaporate excess moisture, such as terra cotta and unglazed containers. Remove the plant from its growing medium and rinse the roots to get off any fungal spores that may be forming. Then dust the roots with a fungicide and repot. Move your plant to a shady location, as plants in shade use less water and you can let it dry out a bit. After a few weeks, move it back to its preferred lighting level. Sometimes you simply can’t save potted plants that are too wet. Container plants with too much water need to be treated as soon as possible, as the longer the situation continues, the less likely there is to be a full recovery.
Overwatering really is a fine line with many species of plant. While we know plants need water, even cacti, the exact amount and frequency may be something of a mystery. Container plants with too much water may experience foliage die off, rotten roots and tubers, and promotion of some pests or mold issues. All of these stress the plant and compromise its health. Potted plants that are too wet may even simply rot off at the crown or base.
How to Avoid Overwatering of Container Plants
An obvious method to prevent overwatering in potted plants is with the use of a moisture meter. You also need to know your plant species and its watering needs. A broad guide for plants is to keep the top few inches of soil moderately moist. When this area is dry, apply water deeply and then allow the soil to dry to the touch again, before adding more water.
A low tech solution is to get your fingers grimy. Push a finger into the soil up to the second knuckle or test the bottom of the post through a drainage hole. Never let the bottom of the container rest in a pool of water unless it is an aquatic plant, and even then, drain and refill the saucer frequently to prevent fungus gnats and root rot.
What Plants Like it Wet and Which Like it Dry
Broadly speaking, even moisture is the best option for many container plants.
Low Moisture Plants
Cacti and succulents should have dry periods in the winter when active growth is not occurring but need moderate water during the growing season. Examples of other low moisture plants are:
Aloe
Bromeliads
Cast iron plant
Ponytail palms
Spider plants
Moderate Watering Needs
Tropical plants and understory specimens will need moderate water and high humidity. These include:
Philodendron
Figs
Dragon trees
Bird of paradise
You can increase humidity with misting or by placing the pot on a saucer filled with pebbles and water.
High Moisture Plants
Extreme moisture needs are found in plants like:
African violet
Lipstick plants
Maidenhair ferns
Dieffenbachia
Treating Overwatered Plants
There are some ways to save overwatered plants.
Changing the soil to a grittier mix with better drainage may help. Check the drainage holes at repotting and ensure they are open. Use containers that help evaporate excess moisture, such as terra cotta and unglazed containers. Remove the plant from its growing medium and rinse the roots to get off any fungal spores that may be forming. Then dust the roots with a fungicide and repot. Move your plant to a shady location, as plants in shade use less water and you can let it dry out a bit. After a few weeks, move it back to its preferred lighting level. Sometimes you simply can’t save potted plants that are too wet. Container plants with too much water need to be treated as soon as possible, as the longer the situation continues, the less likely there is to be a full recovery.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Plants that become leggy or floppy tend to fall over, produce less flowers and create an untidy spindly appearance. There are a couple of reasons why plants are tall and leggy. Leggy plant growth may be the result of too much nitrogen or even low light situations. It is also just simply common to some species. Learn how to keep plants from getting leggy and have bushier, more bountiful flora.
Why Do Mature Plants Become Spindly?
Plant growth is unpredictable in most cases. Legginess in plants is often the result of perfect growing conditions which allows them to add on too much greenery before the plant has adequate dimension and strength in stems and roots. The result is a floppy, leggy plant growth. You can prevent this to some extent with a little manual grooming and the proper fertilizing program.
Plants that die back in winter and come again in spring experience a rapid growth spurt in perfect weather conditions. Sometimes that makes the stems and branches slender and weak, while the fast growth stacks up on the terminal end. Other reasons for leggy plant growth include improper lighting. In low light situations, the plants are stretching for sunlight to produce important plant sugars. This results in overly tall, spindly plants.
Also, plants that receive high nitrogen fertilizers early in spring will get a jump on growth. The excess nitrogen can cause a spike in greenery development that exceeds the plant’s ability to become girthy. Plants are tall and leggy and often produce poorly.
How to Keep Plants from Getting Leggy
Make sure you situate plants where they get adequate light to keep them from stretching towards the sunshine. Pinch back the tip growth of plants, like petunias, to force bushiness and more stems which means more flowers. Most annual flowers and some perennials flourish with this treatment. Indoor houseplants that are in dimmer lighting can be forced to bush with this treatment and herbs respond very favorably to pinching. You can prevent legginess in plants by early season pruning. It enhances thicker growth and sturdier branches.
Care and Its Effect on Leggy Plants
Cultural care is a crucial to keeping plants compact and strong. Provide proper levels of moisture and drainage, lighting and nutrition. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, except on turf grass. Most plants need balanced macro-nutrients such as an 8-8-8. Flowering plants need plant food with a higher middle number, which indicates phosphorus and promotes flowers and fruit. The first number is nitrogen and promotes leaf growth and green cell formation.
If plants are naturally on the tall side, provide supports and an early season infusion of a plant food with a higher last number. That is potassium, which enhances root growth and overall plant health.
Why Do Mature Plants Become Spindly?
Plant growth is unpredictable in most cases. Legginess in plants is often the result of perfect growing conditions which allows them to add on too much greenery before the plant has adequate dimension and strength in stems and roots. The result is a floppy, leggy plant growth. You can prevent this to some extent with a little manual grooming and the proper fertilizing program.
Plants that die back in winter and come again in spring experience a rapid growth spurt in perfect weather conditions. Sometimes that makes the stems and branches slender and weak, while the fast growth stacks up on the terminal end. Other reasons for leggy plant growth include improper lighting. In low light situations, the plants are stretching for sunlight to produce important plant sugars. This results in overly tall, spindly plants.
Also, plants that receive high nitrogen fertilizers early in spring will get a jump on growth. The excess nitrogen can cause a spike in greenery development that exceeds the plant’s ability to become girthy. Plants are tall and leggy and often produce poorly.
How to Keep Plants from Getting Leggy
Make sure you situate plants where they get adequate light to keep them from stretching towards the sunshine. Pinch back the tip growth of plants, like petunias, to force bushiness and more stems which means more flowers. Most annual flowers and some perennials flourish with this treatment. Indoor houseplants that are in dimmer lighting can be forced to bush with this treatment and herbs respond very favorably to pinching. You can prevent legginess in plants by early season pruning. It enhances thicker growth and sturdier branches.
Care and Its Effect on Leggy Plants
Cultural care is a crucial to keeping plants compact and strong. Provide proper levels of moisture and drainage, lighting and nutrition. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, except on turf grass. Most plants need balanced macro-nutrients such as an 8-8-8. Flowering plants need plant food with a higher middle number, which indicates phosphorus and promotes flowers and fruit. The first number is nitrogen and promotes leaf growth and green cell formation.
If plants are naturally on the tall side, provide supports and an early season infusion of a plant food with a higher last number. That is potassium, which enhances root growth and overall plant health.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Phototoxicity in plants can rise from a number of factors. What is phototoxicity? It is anything chemical which causes an adverse reaction. As such, it can stem from pesticides, herbicides, fungicides and other chemical formulations. The plant’s response varies from discolored leaves all the way to death. The sensitivity can go both ways, however, since some plants are phototoxic to humans and can cause injury.
What is Phototoxicity?
Phototoxicity in plants usually occurs in those that are overly sensitive to chemicals. It can also occur when tank mixed chemicals are applied in hot weather or when an adjuvant or solvent is added to the tank mixture. Stressed plants are also more prone to sensitivity than those that are well watered and healthy.
Phototoxicity can exist as a response to an external condition or as a defense to an external condition. As a response, it is manifested when chemicals contact the plant and cause it to become ill or damaged. As a defense, the plant releases its own chemicals, which can make the intruder or predator ill. This dual effect is not found in all plants but some are more sensitive to chemicals than others. For instance, ferns, palms, English ivy, and poinsettias are all extremely sensitive to chemicals. Still other plants are sensitive to only certain chemicals.
Phototoxicity Symptoms in Plants
Plants that are phototoxic in the sense that they are sensitive to chemicals often have specific formulas to which they are vulnerable. Stone fruits have a problem with copper, which is a component of Bordeaux mix, often applied to combat fungal diseases. It causes russeting in apples and can stunt the leaves. Copper also causes issues in cucurbit crops. Zinc sulfate has the potential to defoliate fruit trees. Sulfur causes burns on roses, some ornamental plants and cucurbit crops.
Insecticides and herbicides that are mixed improperly, applied at the incorrect rate or have been mixed in a contaminated container can do a range of damage to many different plants.
Plants That are Phototoxic to Humans
Plants may release chemicals of their own as defense. These chemicals can harm humans. Usually the phototoxicity symptoms will be topical. Wild parsnip looks very much like its cultivated cousin but has phototoxicity which can cause burns. Contact with the plant and then subsequent exposure to the sun will cause a fiery sting in the contact area.
Mayapples have a similar defense mechanism and should not be touched. All parts of this plant are poisonous. Even common garden plants can have mild phototoxicity and should be handled carefully. Wash your hands after handling or harvesting any of the following (wearing gloves is helpful too):
Dill
Celery
Carrots
Coriander
Angelica
Rue
Parsley
Anise
Fennel
Lovage
Treatment for Phototoxicity
If you come in contact with a phototoxic plant, wash the area and apply a topical cream such as cortisone or a paste of baking soda and water. Plants that experience phototoxic symptoms should be rinsed off but usually the damage has already been done. To minimize the risk, always follow directions and apply chemicals on a cool, cloudy day. Use less toxic options like baking soda, phosphate salts, horticultural oils and soaps, and beneficial bacteria or insects.
Treatment for phototoxicity in a small area of a plant may involve simply lopping off the stem to prevent the damage from interfering with the rest of the plant. Providing adequate water and good general care will usually rally the plant over time and reduce the chance of permanent injury.
What is Phototoxicity?
Phototoxicity in plants usually occurs in those that are overly sensitive to chemicals. It can also occur when tank mixed chemicals are applied in hot weather or when an adjuvant or solvent is added to the tank mixture. Stressed plants are also more prone to sensitivity than those that are well watered and healthy.
Phototoxicity can exist as a response to an external condition or as a defense to an external condition. As a response, it is manifested when chemicals contact the plant and cause it to become ill or damaged. As a defense, the plant releases its own chemicals, which can make the intruder or predator ill. This dual effect is not found in all plants but some are more sensitive to chemicals than others. For instance, ferns, palms, English ivy, and poinsettias are all extremely sensitive to chemicals. Still other plants are sensitive to only certain chemicals.
Phototoxicity Symptoms in Plants
Plants that are phototoxic in the sense that they are sensitive to chemicals often have specific formulas to which they are vulnerable. Stone fruits have a problem with copper, which is a component of Bordeaux mix, often applied to combat fungal diseases. It causes russeting in apples and can stunt the leaves. Copper also causes issues in cucurbit crops. Zinc sulfate has the potential to defoliate fruit trees. Sulfur causes burns on roses, some ornamental plants and cucurbit crops.
Insecticides and herbicides that are mixed improperly, applied at the incorrect rate or have been mixed in a contaminated container can do a range of damage to many different plants.
Plants That are Phototoxic to Humans
Plants may release chemicals of their own as defense. These chemicals can harm humans. Usually the phototoxicity symptoms will be topical. Wild parsnip looks very much like its cultivated cousin but has phototoxicity which can cause burns. Contact with the plant and then subsequent exposure to the sun will cause a fiery sting in the contact area.
Mayapples have a similar defense mechanism and should not be touched. All parts of this plant are poisonous. Even common garden plants can have mild phototoxicity and should be handled carefully. Wash your hands after handling or harvesting any of the following (wearing gloves is helpful too):
Dill
Celery
Carrots
Coriander
Angelica
Rue
Parsley
Anise
Fennel
Lovage
Treatment for Phototoxicity
If you come in contact with a phototoxic plant, wash the area and apply a topical cream such as cortisone or a paste of baking soda and water. Plants that experience phototoxic symptoms should be rinsed off but usually the damage has already been done. To minimize the risk, always follow directions and apply chemicals on a cool, cloudy day. Use less toxic options like baking soda, phosphate salts, horticultural oils and soaps, and beneficial bacteria or insects.
Treatment for phototoxicity in a small area of a plant may involve simply lopping off the stem to prevent the damage from interfering with the rest of the plant. Providing adequate water and good general care will usually rally the plant over time and reduce the chance of permanent injury.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Frost can spell serious damage to tender plants, especially if you live in an area where frosts are uncommon, they pose a real threat to plants that are used to temperatures above freezing. Even if your climate experiences cold winters, a single frost can come late in the spring or early in the fall to kill your tender plants well before their time. Keep reading to learn more about protecting plants from frost.
How to Protect Plants from Frost
Keeping plants safe in frost means being vigilant about the weather. It’s always a good idea to stay as up to date as you can on current conditions in your area, which will give you the head’s up as to when frost may be expected. The best frost plant protection methods are dependent on the length of time cold temps will remain, how low they will go and, of course, the types of plants you have.
These are tips to protect plants from frost if temperatures are projected to dip below 32 F. (0 C.) at night, but not much lower. They’re short-term safety measures that give your plants a few extra degrees to make it through the night, not winter-long plans. That being said, they can be quite effective for shorter periods of time.
Water thoroughly. Wet soil retains warmth better than dry soil. You can also spray leaves with an anti-transpirant to prevent harmful winter loss of moisture. Cover with breathable material. Sheets, blankets, and towels thrown over the tops of plants can help them retain heat. If you cover your plants with plastic, hold it up with stakes – any parts of the plant that touch the plastic will be frosted.
Hang lights in trees and bigger plants. A 100-watt bulb or a string of Christmas lights will radiate heat through the plant. Make sure your bulbs are outdoor safe, and not LED (LED does not give off heat). Move container plants. Cluster them close together to store heat better. Place them against the wall of a building, preferably a south- or west-facing one that will hold the heat of the day longer. Alternatively, you can bring them all the way indoors for the night. Wrap younger trees. Wrap the trunks of less mature trees in blankets to help retain heat.
Nothing is guaranteed for keeping plants safe in frost, especially if the temperature falls lower than anticipated. If it’s autumn, pick everything ripe the day before the frost, just in case.
How to Protect Plants from Frost
Keeping plants safe in frost means being vigilant about the weather. It’s always a good idea to stay as up to date as you can on current conditions in your area, which will give you the head’s up as to when frost may be expected. The best frost plant protection methods are dependent on the length of time cold temps will remain, how low they will go and, of course, the types of plants you have.
These are tips to protect plants from frost if temperatures are projected to dip below 32 F. (0 C.) at night, but not much lower. They’re short-term safety measures that give your plants a few extra degrees to make it through the night, not winter-long plans. That being said, they can be quite effective for shorter periods of time.
Water thoroughly. Wet soil retains warmth better than dry soil. You can also spray leaves with an anti-transpirant to prevent harmful winter loss of moisture. Cover with breathable material. Sheets, blankets, and towels thrown over the tops of plants can help them retain heat. If you cover your plants with plastic, hold it up with stakes – any parts of the plant that touch the plastic will be frosted.
Hang lights in trees and bigger plants. A 100-watt bulb or a string of Christmas lights will radiate heat through the plant. Make sure your bulbs are outdoor safe, and not LED (LED does not give off heat). Move container plants. Cluster them close together to store heat better. Place them against the wall of a building, preferably a south- or west-facing one that will hold the heat of the day longer. Alternatively, you can bring them all the way indoors for the night. Wrap younger trees. Wrap the trunks of less mature trees in blankets to help retain heat.
Nothing is guaranteed for keeping plants safe in frost, especially if the temperature falls lower than anticipated. If it’s autumn, pick everything ripe the day before the frost, just in case.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
There are lots of plants in the garden that we devote almost no thought to. For example, parasitic plants exist in a wide range of conditions and they’re rarely discussed. This article is about hemiparasitic plants and the damage they can do to your landscape or garden.
What is a Hemiparasitic Plant?
Photosynthesis is an important process for plants everywhere, or so most people think. Smart gardeners, however, know that there are parasitic plants out there that derive some or all of their nutrients by stealing them from other plants. Just like parasitic animals feed on the blood of other animals, parasitic plants do much the same thing.
There are two main types of plant parasites: hemiparasitic and holoparasitic. Hemiparasitic plants in gardens are of less concern than their holoparasitic counterparts. When looking at holoparasitic vs. hemiparasitic plants, the key distinguishing feature is how much of their nutrients are derived from other plants. Hemiparasitic plants photosynthesize, unlike holoparasitic plants, which do not.
However, that’s not the end of the most important hemiparasitic plant info gardeners need. Because these plants are still parasites, they do utilize other plants to survive. By attaching to their host plants’ xylem, hemiparasitic plants are able to steal water and valuable minerals.
Root hemiparasites are harder to detect, since they attach to their hosts below ground, but stem hemiparasites are obvious because they attach to the host’s trunk. Some root hemiparasites are able to complete their life cycles without a host, but all stem hemiparasites need a host to survive.
Examples of hemiparasitic plants include:
Mistletoe
Indian sandalwood (Santalum album)
Velvetbells (Bartsia alpina)
Rattle plants (Rhinanthus) Indian paintbrush
Most of these plants look very much like freestanding agents, but they are, in fact, feeding off something nearby.
Do Hemiparasitic Plants Cause Damage?
Having parasites in the garden is obviously cause for alarm for many homeowners. After all, these plants are leaching important nutrients from somewhere – it could be beloved landscape plants. The truth is that it really depends on the plant and the condition of the host whether or not a hemiparasitic plant will cause considerable damage. Those that are already weakened or plants that are devoting all their resources to producing food will be hit much harder than healthy landscape plants.
The first sign of hemiparasitic plants is always the actual appearance of the plant in the garden, but if you’re unfamiliar with the parasite, it might seem like a harmless weed or wildflower. The host plant, no matter how healthy, will almost certainly show some subtle signals. For example, a lush green bush that has a hemiparasite may suddenly fade a little or need more feedings.
Always check for new plants in the garden before assuming your landscape is simply old or ill, as recovery could be as simple as killing the hemiparasite that’s making it difficult for your plant to get enough nutrients.
What is a Hemiparasitic Plant?
Photosynthesis is an important process for plants everywhere, or so most people think. Smart gardeners, however, know that there are parasitic plants out there that derive some or all of their nutrients by stealing them from other plants. Just like parasitic animals feed on the blood of other animals, parasitic plants do much the same thing.
There are two main types of plant parasites: hemiparasitic and holoparasitic. Hemiparasitic plants in gardens are of less concern than their holoparasitic counterparts. When looking at holoparasitic vs. hemiparasitic plants, the key distinguishing feature is how much of their nutrients are derived from other plants. Hemiparasitic plants photosynthesize, unlike holoparasitic plants, which do not.
However, that’s not the end of the most important hemiparasitic plant info gardeners need. Because these plants are still parasites, they do utilize other plants to survive. By attaching to their host plants’ xylem, hemiparasitic plants are able to steal water and valuable minerals.
Root hemiparasites are harder to detect, since they attach to their hosts below ground, but stem hemiparasites are obvious because they attach to the host’s trunk. Some root hemiparasites are able to complete their life cycles without a host, but all stem hemiparasites need a host to survive.
Examples of hemiparasitic plants include:
Mistletoe
Indian sandalwood (Santalum album)
Velvetbells (Bartsia alpina)
Rattle plants (Rhinanthus) Indian paintbrush
Most of these plants look very much like freestanding agents, but they are, in fact, feeding off something nearby.
Do Hemiparasitic Plants Cause Damage?
Having parasites in the garden is obviously cause for alarm for many homeowners. After all, these plants are leaching important nutrients from somewhere – it could be beloved landscape plants. The truth is that it really depends on the plant and the condition of the host whether or not a hemiparasitic plant will cause considerable damage. Those that are already weakened or plants that are devoting all their resources to producing food will be hit much harder than healthy landscape plants.
The first sign of hemiparasitic plants is always the actual appearance of the plant in the garden, but if you’re unfamiliar with the parasite, it might seem like a harmless weed or wildflower. The host plant, no matter how healthy, will almost certainly show some subtle signals. For example, a lush green bush that has a hemiparasite may suddenly fade a little or need more feedings.
Always check for new plants in the garden before assuming your landscape is simply old or ill, as recovery could be as simple as killing the hemiparasite that’s making it difficult for your plant to get enough nutrients.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Savvy gardeners are always on the watch for important plant infections in their gardens. One area that many neglect, however, are parasitic plants. If a plant is growing on or near another, it’s generally assumed they’re simply compatible, and not that one is drawing vital nutrients from the other. Learn more about holoparasitic plants in this article so you can better distinguish plant friend from foe.
What are Holoparasitic Plants?
Spending time in the garden means getting better acquainted with some of the more lowly denizens contained therein. You learn which plants are weeds, which ones are useful groundcover and, if you’re lucky, which ones are holoparasitic plants. With anything in life, the plant kingdom contains a small segment (about 4,400 species) of flowering plants that don’t produce any or all of their own food. This holoparasitic information will help you better recognize them when wandering the garden path.
Holoparasitic plants in the garden may be some of the least obvious occupants, but they can have a big impact. These plants are wholly dependent on host plants to survive, tapping into their xylem and phloem, gaining access to water, minerals and other organic products. Holoparasitic plants don’t photosynthesize, but they do flower and often feature leaves that have reduced to scales and succulent stems. Parasitic plants like these attach to their host using a specialized structure called the haustorium, which is always a vital structure in holoparasites.
Holoparasitic plants in gardens can either act strictly as parasites, stealing nutrients and giving nothing in return, but also not seriously injuring their hosts, or they can behave as pathogens. Plant family Hydnoraceae, for example, often coexist with their plant hosts. Other holoparasites, like dodder, will attach to and kill a wide range of host plants – in this way behaving both as a parasite and a pathogen. These two types of holoparasitic plants tend create a pretty simplistic picture, since, in reality, some strictly parasitic plants can accidentally kill their hosts, and some pathogenic plants can be resisted by genetically strong hosts.
Other types of holoparasitic plants include:
Toothwort
Broomrape
Beechdrop
Squawroot
Holoparasitic Plants vs. Carnivorous Plants
Although it might seem like holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants have a great deal in common, they’re really very different creatures. Where holoparasitic plants attach themselves to other plants, often without even bothering to produce roots or leaves, carnivorous plants both root in their environments and produce small and often waxy leaves for photosynthesis.
Holoparasites produce none of their own food. Carnivorous plants, on the other hand, produce all of their own food, but live in nutrient-poor environments and, as such, must get some of their most vital building blocks by dissolving animals that have been lured and captured using a various traps.
In a way, holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants are complete opposites. They both thrive in areas where many plants would struggle, but how they do it is entirely different. Holoparasites work only hard enough to find a host; carnivorous plants work every day to bait and trap unsuspecting insects and small animals.
What are Holoparasitic Plants?
Spending time in the garden means getting better acquainted with some of the more lowly denizens contained therein. You learn which plants are weeds, which ones are useful groundcover and, if you’re lucky, which ones are holoparasitic plants. With anything in life, the plant kingdom contains a small segment (about 4,400 species) of flowering plants that don’t produce any or all of their own food. This holoparasitic information will help you better recognize them when wandering the garden path.
Holoparasitic plants in the garden may be some of the least obvious occupants, but they can have a big impact. These plants are wholly dependent on host plants to survive, tapping into their xylem and phloem, gaining access to water, minerals and other organic products. Holoparasitic plants don’t photosynthesize, but they do flower and often feature leaves that have reduced to scales and succulent stems. Parasitic plants like these attach to their host using a specialized structure called the haustorium, which is always a vital structure in holoparasites.
Holoparasitic plants in gardens can either act strictly as parasites, stealing nutrients and giving nothing in return, but also not seriously injuring their hosts, or they can behave as pathogens. Plant family Hydnoraceae, for example, often coexist with their plant hosts. Other holoparasites, like dodder, will attach to and kill a wide range of host plants – in this way behaving both as a parasite and a pathogen. These two types of holoparasitic plants tend create a pretty simplistic picture, since, in reality, some strictly parasitic plants can accidentally kill their hosts, and some pathogenic plants can be resisted by genetically strong hosts.
Other types of holoparasitic plants include:
Toothwort
Broomrape
Beechdrop
Squawroot
Holoparasitic Plants vs. Carnivorous Plants
Although it might seem like holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants have a great deal in common, they’re really very different creatures. Where holoparasitic plants attach themselves to other plants, often without even bothering to produce roots or leaves, carnivorous plants both root in their environments and produce small and often waxy leaves for photosynthesis.
Holoparasites produce none of their own food. Carnivorous plants, on the other hand, produce all of their own food, but live in nutrient-poor environments and, as such, must get some of their most vital building blocks by dissolving animals that have been lured and captured using a various traps.
In a way, holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants are complete opposites. They both thrive in areas where many plants would struggle, but how they do it is entirely different. Holoparasites work only hard enough to find a host; carnivorous plants work every day to bait and trap unsuspecting insects and small animals.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
What are kermes scale pests? Kermes scale are aggressive sap-sucking pests that can cause significant damage in oak trees. Treating kermes scale on plants is attained by a variety of methods. Read on to learn about kermes scale control.
Kermes Scale Life Cycle
Pinning down kermes scale life cycle is a difficult task. According to Illinois State University Extension, there are more than 30 different kermes scale species. Identification of the specific species is difficult and hatching times vary widely. Your local Cooperative Extension Agent can advise you what types of kermes scale are present in your area, and about the best times for treating kermes scale pests on your trees.
Treating Kermes Scale
Kermes scale pests are most likely to infest trees that are under stress. Ensure trees are properly watered and fertilized. Prune infested twigs and branches, and keep the area under the tree free of plant debris.
Encourage beneficial insects in your garden, as parasitic wasps and ladybugs will help keep kermes scale in check. Use chemical insecticides only when nothing else works, as insecticides aren’t selective and will kill bees and other beneficial insects as well as scale, often resulting in pests that are resistant to chemicals and more difficult to control.
Treating kermes scale is most effective when the pests are newly hatched or early in the crawling stage, which is autumn for most species. However, some species may produce crawlers in midsummer. Keep in mind that sprays won’t penetrate scales’ tough, waxy covering.
Try using a pyrethroid-based insecticide, which is plant-based and safer for beneficial insects. You can also spray overwintering scales with horticultural oil in late winter or early spring. Dormant oil is effective when temperatures are above freezing. Both oils will smother the pests.
Insecticidal soap sprays may be effective on scales that are recently settled and are relatively safe for beneficial insects because the spray is effective only when wet. However, direct contact will kill the good guys. Also, don’t use insecticidal soap spray when temperatures are hot, or when the sun is directly on the foliage.
Kermes Scale Life Cycle
Pinning down kermes scale life cycle is a difficult task. According to Illinois State University Extension, there are more than 30 different kermes scale species. Identification of the specific species is difficult and hatching times vary widely. Your local Cooperative Extension Agent can advise you what types of kermes scale are present in your area, and about the best times for treating kermes scale pests on your trees.
Treating Kermes Scale
Kermes scale pests are most likely to infest trees that are under stress. Ensure trees are properly watered and fertilized. Prune infested twigs and branches, and keep the area under the tree free of plant debris.
Encourage beneficial insects in your garden, as parasitic wasps and ladybugs will help keep kermes scale in check. Use chemical insecticides only when nothing else works, as insecticides aren’t selective and will kill bees and other beneficial insects as well as scale, often resulting in pests that are resistant to chemicals and more difficult to control.
Treating kermes scale is most effective when the pests are newly hatched or early in the crawling stage, which is autumn for most species. However, some species may produce crawlers in midsummer. Keep in mind that sprays won’t penetrate scales’ tough, waxy covering.
Try using a pyrethroid-based insecticide, which is plant-based and safer for beneficial insects. You can also spray overwintering scales with horticultural oil in late winter or early spring. Dormant oil is effective when temperatures are above freezing. Both oils will smother the pests.
Insecticidal soap sprays may be effective on scales that are recently settled and are relatively safe for beneficial insects because the spray is effective only when wet. However, direct contact will kill the good guys. Also, don’t use insecticidal soap spray when temperatures are hot, or when the sun is directly on the foliage.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Harvesting rain in barrels is an earth-friendly practice that conserves water, reduces runoff that negatively impacts waterways, and benefits plants and soil. The downside is that standing water in rain barrels is an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes. There are a number of ways of preventing mosquitoes in rain barrels. Read on for a few helpful suggestions.
Rain Barrels and Mosquito Pests
While using a rain barrel in the garden is great for water conservation among its other benefits, mosquitoes are a constant threat, as they carry life-threatening diseases. Learning how to control mosquitoes in a rain barrel is just as important to controlling them anywhere else, especially since the pests take advantage of standing water to help carry out their life cycle.
Here are some things you can do to minimize their presence: Dish soap – Liquid dish soap creates a slick film on the surface of the water. When mosquitoes attempt to land, they drown before they have time to lay eggs. Use natural soap and avoid products with perfume or degreasers, especially if you water your plants with rain water. One or two tablespoons of liquid soap per week is plenty for most rain barrels.
Mosquito dunks – Also known as mosquito donuts, mosquito dunks are round cakes of Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis), a naturally occurring bacteria that provides mosquito control in rain barrels as it slowly dissolves. However, it is safe for beneficial insects. Be sure the product label indicates the dunks are formulated for ponds because other types, which kill caterpillars, aren’t effective in water. Replace the dunks as needed. Check them after a hard rain.
Vegetable oil – Oil floats on the surface of the water. If mosquitoes attempt to land, they suffocate in the oil. Use about a quarter cup of oil per week. You can use any type of oil, including olive oil. Horticultural oil or dormant oil are also effective for preventing mosquitoes in rain barrels. Netting – Fine mesh or netting attached firmly to the barrel keeps mosquitoes out. Attach the netting to the barrel with a bungee cord.
Goldfish – One or two goldfish keep mosquitoes in control and their poop provides a little extra nitrogen-rich fertilizer for plants. This isn’t a good solution, however, if your rain barrel is in direct sunlight or the water is too warm. Be sure to place netting over the spigot and any other openings. Remove the goldfish and bring them indoors before the first hard frost.
Rain Barrels and Mosquito Pests
While using a rain barrel in the garden is great for water conservation among its other benefits, mosquitoes are a constant threat, as they carry life-threatening diseases. Learning how to control mosquitoes in a rain barrel is just as important to controlling them anywhere else, especially since the pests take advantage of standing water to help carry out their life cycle.
Here are some things you can do to minimize their presence: Dish soap – Liquid dish soap creates a slick film on the surface of the water. When mosquitoes attempt to land, they drown before they have time to lay eggs. Use natural soap and avoid products with perfume or degreasers, especially if you water your plants with rain water. One or two tablespoons of liquid soap per week is plenty for most rain barrels.
Mosquito dunks – Also known as mosquito donuts, mosquito dunks are round cakes of Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis), a naturally occurring bacteria that provides mosquito control in rain barrels as it slowly dissolves. However, it is safe for beneficial insects. Be sure the product label indicates the dunks are formulated for ponds because other types, which kill caterpillars, aren’t effective in water. Replace the dunks as needed. Check them after a hard rain.
Vegetable oil – Oil floats on the surface of the water. If mosquitoes attempt to land, they suffocate in the oil. Use about a quarter cup of oil per week. You can use any type of oil, including olive oil. Horticultural oil or dormant oil are also effective for preventing mosquitoes in rain barrels. Netting – Fine mesh or netting attached firmly to the barrel keeps mosquitoes out. Attach the netting to the barrel with a bungee cord.
Goldfish – One or two goldfish keep mosquitoes in control and their poop provides a little extra nitrogen-rich fertilizer for plants. This isn’t a good solution, however, if your rain barrel is in direct sunlight or the water is too warm. Be sure to place netting over the spigot and any other openings. Remove the goldfish and bring them indoors before the first hard frost.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
If your plants are attacked by two-spotted mites, you are going to want to take some action to protect them. What are two-spotted spider mites? They are mites with the scientific name of Tetranychus urticae that infest hundreds of different plant species. For more information about two-spotted mite damage and control of two-spotted mites, read on.
What are Two-Spotted Spider Mites?
You may have heard of spider mites, but perhaps not this particular kind. So exactly what are they? These garden pests are as tiny as mitescan be. In fact, one alone is barely visible to the naked eye, so you aren’t going to be able to inspect it and count its spots. But finding one mite alone is not very likely. By the time you see two-spotted mite damage and think about two-spotted spider mite control, you are likely to have a large mite population. These mites live on the underside of plant leaves.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Damage
As you prepare to fight two-spotted spider mite damage, it helps to understand the pest’s life cycle. Here is a summary of what happens. The mature female two-spotted spider mites overwinter on host plants. They pass the winter either under the host plant’s bark or else on the base of neighbor plants. In spring, the females mate. They lay 2 to 6 eggs a day on the bottom side of the host plants’ leaves, laying perhaps 100 in their short lifetime. In less than a week, the eggs hatch. The new mites lose their exoskeletons three times in their first few weeks. They then become mature adult mites, mate and lay eggs.
If you see two-spotted spider mite damage on your plants, they probably have mites in all stages of development. Generations tend to overlap. In hot dry weather, the infestations are particularly severe and control of two-spotted mites becomes important. You might find two-spotted spider mite damage on either deciduous or evergreen trees or garden ornamentals. Even garden veggies can be at risk. Two-spotted mites suck essential plant fluids from the leaves. With a serious infestation, the foliage yellows or appears mottled. You will likely see fine, silken threads over the leaf surface.
Even with heavy infestations, you may not be able to spot the actual mites on your plants. To confirm your suspicions, hold a piece of white paper under a stippled leave and tap it. Tiny moving spots on the paper means you need to think about treating for two-spotted mites.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Control
The best way to begin treating for two-spotted mites is to apply a pesticide specific to mites called a miticide. Ideally, you should start treating for two-spotted mites before your plants are seriously damaged. Apply the miticide for control of two-spotted mites every 7 days or so. Since mites can develop resistance to chemicals, switch to another type of miticide after three applications.
What are Two-Spotted Spider Mites?
You may have heard of spider mites, but perhaps not this particular kind. So exactly what are they? These garden pests are as tiny as mitescan be. In fact, one alone is barely visible to the naked eye, so you aren’t going to be able to inspect it and count its spots. But finding one mite alone is not very likely. By the time you see two-spotted mite damage and think about two-spotted spider mite control, you are likely to have a large mite population. These mites live on the underside of plant leaves.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Damage
As you prepare to fight two-spotted spider mite damage, it helps to understand the pest’s life cycle. Here is a summary of what happens. The mature female two-spotted spider mites overwinter on host plants. They pass the winter either under the host plant’s bark or else on the base of neighbor plants. In spring, the females mate. They lay 2 to 6 eggs a day on the bottom side of the host plants’ leaves, laying perhaps 100 in their short lifetime. In less than a week, the eggs hatch. The new mites lose their exoskeletons three times in their first few weeks. They then become mature adult mites, mate and lay eggs.
If you see two-spotted spider mite damage on your plants, they probably have mites in all stages of development. Generations tend to overlap. In hot dry weather, the infestations are particularly severe and control of two-spotted mites becomes important. You might find two-spotted spider mite damage on either deciduous or evergreen trees or garden ornamentals. Even garden veggies can be at risk. Two-spotted mites suck essential plant fluids from the leaves. With a serious infestation, the foliage yellows or appears mottled. You will likely see fine, silken threads over the leaf surface.
Even with heavy infestations, you may not be able to spot the actual mites on your plants. To confirm your suspicions, hold a piece of white paper under a stippled leave and tap it. Tiny moving spots on the paper means you need to think about treating for two-spotted mites.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Control
The best way to begin treating for two-spotted mites is to apply a pesticide specific to mites called a miticide. Ideally, you should start treating for two-spotted mites before your plants are seriously damaged. Apply the miticide for control of two-spotted mites every 7 days or so. Since mites can develop resistance to chemicals, switch to another type of miticide after three applications.
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